Big bottles and collectors who love them.

There is nothing like a big vintage bottle of wine to bring friends and fellow enthusiasts together. When I first caught the wine bug, my studies led my to the theories behind big bottles and the benefits that come with them. We’re talking about magnums, jeroboams (double magnum) and imperials (6 liter), bottles that the average consumer equates with cheap party wine but when talking about ageable fine wine, these bottles provide benefits that few are aware of.

So what’s so great about big bottles? They age slower, but many will also argue that they age better. There are many theories behind these benefits, and one cold hard fact that has convinced me to buy and store big bottles. Some push the theory that wine is a living thing, and that when more wine is in the bottle and able to age slowly, it supposedly ages more gracefully. This may be true, but I doubt that it’s scientifically proven.

Then there’s the fact that exposure to air is one of the main factors in how a wine ages. One of the main reasons for winemakers to keep the cork closure (instead of switching to screw caps or synthetics) is that corks allow a miniscule and slow transfer of air into the bottle. The thing about magnums is that there is just as much air in the bottle as your average 705ml. Less oxygen means slower oxidation (yes, wine oxides when exposed to oxygen) and slower oxidation results in slower aging. This is in no way a cold hard fact, but certainly a good reason for someone to put some magnums away for the future.

So what’s the big bottle that brought this topic to these pages? The Montevertine Il Sodaccio.

1985 Azienda Agricola Montevertine Il Sodaccio Vino da Tavola (from 3L / Double Magnum) – The most interesting thing about this wine was how it seemed to grow younger and younger throughout the night. The nose showed dusty potpourri with dried cranberries, earth and leather; but as time passed, the dried fruit turned more and more vibrant and took on a sweet mature roundness. On the palate, I found sour cherry with tobacco and dried herbs. At first, this wine was tight with a sour hint, but the fruit grew darker, sweeter and mouth-filling as time went on. The finish was long with dried red fruit and sweet earth. (93 points)

As I mentioned above, this bottle encouraged a group of wine lovers to form a dinner and tasting around its opening. And so the theme “Wines that don’t suck” became the mantra of the night; and I can assure you, these wines did not suck. Nothing like a bunch of wine collectors all pulling out bottles to impress their friends.

Before I move onto the notes, I would be remiss not to mention the amazing meal we had at Sojourn Restaurant at 244 East 79th street. I kid you not when I say that it was some of the most enjoyable food I’ve eaten in a while. It wasn’t the originality or obscure technique that impressed me; instead, it’s that the food was perfectly cooked, perfectly seasoned and presented beautifully. I can’t think of a better compliment to pay to a Chef and his kitchen. Bravo… Go to this restaurant.

On to the Notes:

2009 Loimer Riesling Kamptal DAC – The nose was fresh and uplifting with white flowers, sweet butter and a spritz of lime. On the palate, I found lemon pith and stony minerals, which started full and juicy but turned dry into the finish. (86 points)

NV Ulysse Collin Champagne Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs – Upon being popped and poured, the nose was all buttery popcorn and pecorino cheese. With time in the glass, aromas of ground wheat and whey rose with a hint of green foliage came forward. On the palate, this was light and refreshing with steely malt, sour stone fruit, and possibly young mango. The finish was a little bitter but very pleasant. (90 points)

1998 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese – The nose on the Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese was a refreshing, confectionary treat as aromas of raw sugar and floral green stems led the way to honeyed grapefruit and citrus zest. On the palate, I found a mix of juicy orange, apricot and/or pear that seemed to fill every taste bud with an explosion of flavor and slowly faded into a mouthwatering finish. (93 points)

2008 Frank Cornelissen Etna Susucaru – This wine was a conundrum. It was an exercise in what wine could be if every winemaker harvested fruit from volcanic slopes with a totally non-interventionalist approach. This wine showed what could only be described by this taster as cherry grapefruit juice with fresh picked mint and hints of green grass. On the palate, it was light on its feet with apple and mulling spices, more grapefruit, and a refreshing herbal tea note. The finish was fresh and cleansed the palate nicely. Is it wine? I think so. Do I like it? Absolutely. (92 points)

1998 Travaglini Gattinara Riserva – The first thought to enter my mind as I tasted this wine was: Why don’t I have this in my cellar? The nose showed a dark and ripe expression of Nebbiolo. It was like ripe black cherries buried in rich, fresh tossed soil with a savory beef stock brewing off to the side. On the palate, I found rich red fruits playing a sweet and sour act as fresh mint and spices filled out this wine’s broad shoulders. The finish was long with red fruit and soil but also fine silky tannin, which promised a bright future for the 1998 Travaglini Gattinara Riserva. (94 points)

1994 Case Basse (Soldera) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – I honestly believe this bottle could have been open for many more hours to really strut its stuff. On the nose, I found dusty cherry, leather, soil and a hint of eucalyptus. Earth, stems and sweet red berries filled out the palate with vibrant acidity. The finish showed savory broth and notes of salinity. (94 points)

1995 Müller-Catoir Mußbacher Eselshaut Rieslaner Auslese – The color was a rich gold with amber hints and a beautiful sheen. The nose was heady, with tropical fruits, orange peel and a hint of old library book, which ground the ripe fruit in reality. The palate showed flavors of more tropical fruits, but wrapped in baking puff pastry with teaming acidity that kept the sweetness in check. The finish was long with a sour patch tinge. (92 points)

1994 Isole e Olena Vin Santo del Chianti Classico - Roasted almond, varnish, orange peel, chestnut and smoke filled out the nose of this beautiful Vin Santo. The palate was perfectly resolved yet lively with acidity, and sweet caramel was followed by roasting nuts and a hint of tropical fruit. The finish was over a minute long with vibrant acidity, showing nuts and orange that faded into warm wood tones. (92 Points)

Food and Wine in December

December tends to be my busiest time of year and usually keeps me away from tasting as much as I’d like. Luckily, I was still able to find a few diamonds in the rough. Through December, I was able to taste an amazing white from Piedmont that anyone who loves white wine should know about, some great vintage Vin Santo that’s available and affordable, and a truly exciting yet stylish Cab Franc from Long Island.

However, December wasn’t all about wine. What’s Cookin’ also released one of my newest articles “Eric Guido’s Eggplant Parmigiana” a recipe that comes right from my heart. This is serious Italian American homestyle cooking that was taught to me by my grandmother and hardly changed by my trained hand. Why mess with perfection?

Eric Guido's Eggplant Parmigiana

If you were to ask any of my friends or clients about my specialty, they would quickly inform you that it’s risotto. However, it wasn’t always so. Long before my professional career and formal training, I was a cook that depended on what I learned as a child. The rich Italian-American cooking of my family was my strong suit and, more than anything else, it was my grandmother’s Eggplant Parmigiana... (For the full article and recipe, visit: What's Cookin

On to the wines:

Arneis is a white grape indigenous to Piedmont, Italy. Many bottles of Arneis are easily forgettable, but in the hands of some producers (Bruno Giacosa & Vietti come to mind), they are gorgeous, showing white flowers and citrus fruits, with a mix of richness and finesse on the palate. This one is the best I’ve tasted to date:

2009 Bruno Giacosa Roero Arneis - On the nose, I found white flowers and citrus zest with hints of honey and slight toastiness. The palate was crisp and fresh yet still showed weight with flavors of sweet peach, apricots and cream. The finish was fresh and floral. This may be the best Arneis I’ve ever had. (91 Points)

Find it on Wine-Searcher!

The North Fork of Long Island continues to push its way into the world of fine wine but it’s an uphill battle. Nonetheless, many quality producers are determined to show what the North Fork is capable of (Shinn and Paumanok come to mind). The bottle below, from Vineyard 48, was thoroughly enjoyable. Think an official visit to the North Fork is in order for later this year.

2007 Vineyard 48 Cabernet Franc Reserve - The nose showed licorice and cherry liquor with a hint of musky animal fur and new oak. On the palate, I found strawberry fruit, milk chocolate and sweet vanilla on a full bodied frame. The finish was long and fresh with red fruits. This was very enjoyable and with enough character to cut through the rich fruit. (90 Points)

For more information, visit: Vineyard 48

Vin Santo is not a wine you see at many tastings and events these days. The fact is, dessert wines fell out of style a while back and it’s because of this that you don’t see quality Vin Santo adorning the shelves of your trusted wine merchant. However, this almost forgotten style, in the United States, is still the pride of many Tuscan winemakers portfolios. I was lucky enough to taste a ’90 Vin Santo about two years ago and it changed the way I thought about this wine. So it might be sweet… but it also possesses depths of flavors and nuances unheard of in dry wines. I highly recommend that my readers try a good aged Vin Santo, and the one below would be a great place to start.

1994 Isole e Olena Vin Santo del Chianti Classico - Roasted almond, varnish, orange peel, chestnut and smoke filled out the nose of this beautiful Vin Santo. The palate was perfectly resolved, yet lively, with acidity and sweet caramel followed by roasting nuts and a hint of tropical fruit. The finish was over a minute long with vibrant acidity, showing nuts and orange that faded into warm wood tones. (92 Points)

I found this great bottle at: Grapes: The Wine Company

Vintage Chianti Tasting at Tolani

Do you drink Chianti? If you answered no then I’d have to wonder what planet you’re from. What about aged Chianti? I’d be surprised if the average person has tasted Chianti with over ten years on it. Why? Well, because most people think of Chianti as an early drinking yet highly enjoyable wine with a night of pasta or pizza. However, three years ago I received an education in aged Chianti from Greg dal Piaz of www.snooth.com. On that night, the theme was Chianti Classico from 1990, and it changed the way I looked at Chianti forever.

Fast forward to October 2010 at a new restaurant on the upper west side: Tolani. After three years of experimenting with aged Chianti, the time was right for a more in-depth approach at understanding what can be achieved from these great Tuscan wines. Lucky for me, my friend Fernando Losada decided to organize a tasting centered on Sangiovese (the grape that makes Chianti, Chianti) with all bottles predating the year 2000.

With 12 bottles of the who’s who in Tuscany and eight tasters of impeccable repute, the decision was made that these wines were fabulas. What thrilled me the most was the utter level of rich, vibrant fruit and balance that was found in each glass. Even with two wines over 30 years old, we were amazed by the high level quality found from each bottle. What’s remarkable to me is that we often speak of how Italy has improved the level of quality and cleanliness in their cellars over the last decade, yet these wines showed that there were many producers that were far ahead of the curve in Tuscany.

My suggestion: search out some aged Chianti Classico from a reputable dealer, and find out for yourself. The wines below would certainly be a good place the start.

On to the notes:

1985 Boscarelli (Marchesi de Ferrari Corradi) Vino da Tavola – The nose opened up with ginger spice cookie, roasted sausage and potpourri with a mineral bass note that made this all at once savory, fruity and earthy. On the palate, I found lush black fruits that were spicy with a hint of black pepper leading to a dark soil note on the slightly tannic finish. I hope to be able to taste this again in a few years. (92 Points)

1985 Isole e Olena Chianti Classico Riserva – The nose showed dusty spiced cherry with hints of florist shop, undergrowth and a bit of old parchment. On the palate, I found tart, tight wild berry fruit and a hint of herbal tea. The finish was tight but showed this wine is still blossoming. (91 points)

1995 Stefano Farina Chianti Classico Le Bocce – The nose on this wine was immediately intriguing as it reminded me of the cooking process when making cranberry sauce. Aromas of red wild berries with a dark mulling spice quality rose up from the glass. On the palate, I found lush red fruits with a gorgeous balance of acidity verse richness, leading to a finish that was still tannic and showed a hint of anise. (91 Points)

1996 Castell’in Villa Chianti Classico – I found myself going back and forth between liking and disliking this wine as it showed incredible richness, yet had an almost dirty quality to it. The nose showed rich soil and sweet tea with red fruits and hard candies. On the palate, I found tart cherry with herbal tea, which led to a medium finish that left me with a rusty aftertaste. (85 points)

1991 Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva Badia a Passignano – On the nose I found ginger and spice with tart black fruit and a hint of charcoal and vanilla. The palate was structured and a bit restrained, with blackberry and tar. The finish was rich and long. (89 points)

1990 Villa di Vetrice Chianti Rufina Riserva (corked) – Too bad this bottle was corked because you could sense the quality that was fighting to stay in front of the mildew-like aroma the crept threw. Otherwise, I found a rich, spicy expression of dark fruit on the nose. On the palate, I found dark fruits and beef broth leading to a medium finish. (No score)

1995 Fattoria di Felsina Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia – The nose on the ’95 Rancia was floral with spice, cinnamon and a hint of stems. On the palate, I found smooth tart cherry and cedar with a beautiful balance of acidity verse structure, which led to a refined yet slightly restrained finish. (92 points)

1997 Marchesi Mazzei Chianti Classico Castello di Fonterutoli – On the nose, I found plum fruit with a dusting of confectioners sugar followed by veal reduction and cedar. On the palate, cherry was dominant with a musky, animal note. Bright sour fruit appeared on the finish. (86 points)

1997 La Massa Chianti Classico Giorgio Primo – I found restrained fruit on the nose, as sour berries and cinnamon gram come forward. On the palate, I found jammy cherry but little else and this wine lost momentum leading into the finish. (86 Points)

1997 Castello di Monsanto Tinscvil Toscana IGT – This wine showed a mix of blue and black fruit on the nose with hints of beefy broth. On the palate, I found sour cherries and bitters leading to a short tart finish. (86 points)

1977 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio - The 1977 Monsanto, Il Poggio showed vibrant and fresh aromas reminding me of autumn with dried cherry, allspice and baking pie crust. On the palate, I found sweet cherry tobacco and cedar on a balanced and delicate frame. The finish was medium long with red fruit and hint of copper penny. An amazing bottle of wine. (95 points)

1980 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio - The nose of this wine showed undergrowth and herbs with dusty dark fruit and a bit of old parchment paper. On the palate, I found tart yet delicate raspberry fruit, which led to a tannic anise finish that was a bit marred by acidity. (89 points)

Dessert

2006 Szent Benedek Pinceszet Tokaji Remete - The nose showed apple and lemon curd with a mineral note. On the palate, I found fresh sour apple with hazelnut. This wine was rich yet refreshing all at once. (89 points)

Great friends, wine, cigars and… food; ah well, you can’t win them all.

The best and the worst of times, the best being a night of great friends, wine and even some cigars; the worst being a restaurant that didn’t quite make the cut.

As I mentioned a few days ago, I was off to the Blue Grotto for a tasting and dinner with friends on Saturday night. Without going into much explanation, the food was… okay. With a beautiful interior and great view of Atwells Ave from my seat, everything seemed fine. The appetizers were great, as was the wine, which I’ll get into shortly, but the entrée’s fell flat.

With lobster ravioli that was undercooked and under-stuffed, a risotto with a mealy texture that reeked of being left too long on the pass, and a pasta dish that was simply unremarkable, I have to unfortunately give a thumbs down to this Federal Hill stalwart. Honestly, I had my fears, since a number of locals referred to the establishment as outdated or tired. Going against their recommendation was a mistake.

But that is where the bad ends and the good begins.

The wines that night were amazing, I sat their happily, gazing at a lineup of bottles which contained four famous names from Italy with a Brunello di Montalcino, a Super Tuscan, a Tuscan syrah, and a Barolo.

We started with the 1997 Antinori, Tignanello, which was gorgeous with dark raspberries, flowery herbal tea, and road tar showing on the nose. The palate was luscious and rich, yet finessed with blackberry jam and plum with citrus sprits and a hint of wood showing through. The finish was long, as red fruits began to show. This bottle was one of my favorites but shut down after being opened for about five hours.

The 1997 Poggio di Sotto, Brunello di Montalcino had a lovely and elegant floral nose with red fruit and woodsy herbs. On the palate, it showed round cherry fruit and charred wood on a well-balanced frame, but the finish closed down hard as my palate was coated with tannin. I’d give this bottle a few more years, at least, and can’t wait to taste it down the road.

Next, the 1999 Isole e Olena, Syrah Collezione de Marchi Toscana showed a deep purple color in the glass. Its dark brooding nose was smoky with musk, plums, and spice cookies. On the palate, it was velvety smooth with more plum and a bit of grapiness, but, came across as one-dimensional with an unremarkable finish. This may have passed over the hill or at least been in a disjointed stage of its life.

Lastly, the 2000 Aldo Conterno, Barolo Granbussia, showed candied red fruit with cedar, leather, crushed fall leaves and a seductive Christmas spice on the nose. On the palate, it was full-bodied and juicy with ripe strawberry, tobacco, licorice and spice. The finish was long, with red fruit, yet clean, showing silky tannin. This is an approachable bottle now, but it still shows a balance that promises many years of good drinking and, with all this ripe fruit, might one day be a truly classic Barolo.

With that it was back to the city, to a cigar lounge I had stumbled upon a few nights ago called Cigar Masters. With four bottles tucked in my bag and camera in hand, I walked from Federal hill across I95 and back toward the Rhode Island Convention center. Providence was alive and buzzing with activity this Saturday night. Put that together with the sights and clean streets and it beats the hell out of my hometown, at least until 2:00 am (when EVERYTHING closes).

Cigar Masters is an unpretentious cigar lounge that walks a tight rope between relaxed cocktail / wine bar and old world-styled private club. It’s basically the best of both worlds since you can walk in for a drink and smoke, find a cozy corner to lose yourself, or find some new friends. This is not just a room full of smokers; instead imagine multiple rooms done in wood and earth tones with mood lighting, art, books, and wide screen TVs, along with all manner of cigar smoking paraphernalia.

You pick the room that fits your mood and the rest is easy. The best part is that, for the non-smoker, this is still an option, since the ventilation system works wonders pulling the smoke from the rooms before it can become obnoxious.

What’s more, the walk-in humidor provides a vast selection of cigars and is under the careful supervision of its own cigar master, who is happy to point you toward the cigar that fits you best, educate you on your purchase, storage, smoking; you name it. Being something of a cigar novice myself, I felt perfectly comfortable and enjoyed the cigars recommended to me.

Cigar Masters also touts a balanced wine and spirits list with the cigar smoker in mind. Big, juicy reds fill out the bulk of their list with a number of fine bottles for the serious drinker. However, I found myself gravitating to their list of ports, or to be more specific, vintage ports.

The 1991 Dow’s, Vintage Port was a beast on the nose with vibrant black cherry, chocolate and boysenberry. The palate was rich and silky with cherry fruit, cinnamon and black strap molasses with some tangy acidity showing through. The finish was fresh yet layered with cherry and dark chocolate.

Lastly, the 1977 Dow’s, Vintage Port showed serious class and breed with cherry, spice, caramel and burnt sugar on its nose. The palate showed cherry cough syrup, roasted dark espresso beans and dark, dry cocoa, but remained juicy and smooth. The finish went on and on with sour cherry and espresso notes.

What an evening, I thought, sitting there with a cigar and a glass of port while chatting it up with a group of locals I found myself hanging with. If I had to describe Providence in one word, it would be… inviting. Whether it’s the stores or restaurants, people in bars or on the streets, it’s an amazing city, populated with warm, friendly people and something new to do or explore around every corner.

To check out Cigar Master's website, click here!

I must give an honorable mention to Flemings Steak House, touted as the best steak in Providence, Rhode Island. Unfortunately I didn't have the time to formally sit for diner but their cozy bar and wonderful staff provided me with the perfect atmosphere to complete a lot of my work. I guarantee they are on my list for the next visit.

To find the Antinori, Tignanello 1997 on Wine-Searcher, click here!
To find Aldo Conterno's 2000 Granbussia on Wine-Searcher, click here!
To find Dow's Vintage Port on Wine-Searcher, click here!