A Chianti Lovers Dream: The 2010 Riservas

The '95 Felsina Chianti Classico
Riserva is still going strong at age 19

An article by: Eric Guido

Some wine is meant for the cellar, while most can go right to the table. But these generalizations tend to fade when talking about Chianti Classico. In their youth, these are fun and fruity wines with enough acidity and structure to carry a meal. However, as they mature they soften, grow darker, and begin to display more earth, natural wood and spice. It is this evolution that keeps me putting bottles of Chianti Classico in the cellar.  In a good vintage, it is one of the most versatile wines being made today.  However, where a regular Chianti Classico (normale) will bring you night after night of enjoyment at your dinner table, the Riserva level wines mature beautifully in the cellar.  Which brings us to the 2010 Chianti Classico Riservas.

Classic is a word often used to describe the long, cool growing season in 2010, with a decent amount of rain moderated by periods of extended warmth and sunshine. This mix produced exciting wines of structure with juicy acidity and bright, focused fruit that really grabs your attention and holds it from the first glass through the last. Most of the straight Chianti Classico's are drinking beautifully right now, yet the 2010 vintage played right into winemakers' hands, allowing them to create Riserva level wines of exceptional quality and agebility. These are serious Chianti Classico that show the best qualities of the region and belong in your cellar. The early drinking 2011 vintage will give you more to drink over the next few years, but for me; stocking up on 2010 is my priority, because these wines should provide two decades (or more) of enjoyment.

Here's a list of some of the best 2010 Chianti Classico Riservas, in a number of price ranges, that I've tasted this year.

On To The Tasting Notes:

2010 San Giusto a Rentennano Chianti Classico Le Baroncole - The nose showed an intense burst of woodsy raspberry and cherry with hints of floral undergrowth, cedar and herbs, offset by a whiff of dark chocolate. On the palate, this showed silky textures with a vibrant, sexy personality, coating the senses with ripe red fruits and spice. Beneath it all was a refined structure that you could miss on a single sip under all that intense fruit. The finish turned fresh, yet grainy tannin could still be felt on the palate. This was a remarkably balanced wine with a slight inflection of oak, that's drinking great now, but should get even better with time. (94 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher! (avg. $45)

2010 Fontodi Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo - The nose was restrained at first, yet became more giving with time in the decanter. Tart black cherry, moist fall leaves, dried flowers and licorice were all on display, yet still holding back. On the palate, it was tense, yet concentrated and dark with compact cherry, wood (not oak) and leather notes, kept in check by a stern tannic backbone. The finish was youthful and ungiving, needing years in the cellar to show it’s true colors, yet the potential is there. This is a wine for the cellar. (94 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher! (avg. $75)

2010 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva - The nose was restrained and youthful, showing young cherry, dried flowers, animal musk, minerals, and Tuscan dust. On the palate, it showed silky textures with tart cherry and dried spices, which quickly firmed up with fine-grained tannin. Compact flavors of red fruit and cedar lingered long on the dry, tense finish. This 2010 riserva is in need of five to ten years in the cellar, and should be wonderfully classic as it matures. (92 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher! (avg. $27)

2010 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva - The nose showed cherry with hints of stem, animal musk and a bright herbal note, which provided lift. On the palate, I found vibrant red fruits, spice, old wood tones and hints of soil. The finish showed hints of structure with juicy red fruits.  This is a great Chianti Classico Riserva in the value category; it's drinking great now with proper decanting, and can go a decade or more in the cellar. (91 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher! (avg. $20)

2010 Antinori Chianti Classico Villa Antinori Riserva - The nose showed ripe black cherry, minty herbs, cedar and dark oak looming in the background. On the palate, it was rich yet remained fresh throughout. Spicy red fruit, leather and notes of dark chocolate cascaded along the palate, leaving concentrated red berry fruit on the finish. Although the oak was more pronounced than I usually prefer, I still found it enjoyable. This wasn't my cup of tea, but if oak with your Sangiovese is a quality you appreciate, this wine will be for you. (89 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher! (avg. $32)

"The" Italian Wine Grape: Sangiovese

Every year, as the summer begins to melt away and hints of cooler autumn days can be seen off in the distance, I find myself craving Sangiovese. I will admit, even with my intense love of the Nebbiolo grape, that Sangiovese holds a very special place in my heart and in my cellar. You could say that Sangiovese is “The” Italian wine grape, with a storied history going back to the 18th century and its earliest documented mention in 1590. It is also the most widely-planted red wine grape variety in all of Italy. Sangiovese is the star performer behind many of Italy's premier wines, including Chianti Classico, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Brunello di Montalcino, Morellino di Scansano and many of the Super Tuscan IGT bottlings.

Sangiovese is widely planted throughout the regions 
of Tuscany, Umbria, Emilia-Romagna, Abruzzo
and the Marche

Central Italy is the area most planted with Sangiovese, often coined the Sangiovese belt. Tuscany is obviously the most famous of these regions with a number of great expressions, but you will also find it widely used in Umbria, Emilia-Romagna, Abruzzo and the Marche. Of course, Sangiovese isn't limited to Italy either, with many wines being made from California, Romania and Argentina. However, I'm still not convinced by most of these wines and find that Italy has little competition.

Courtesy of Wine Folly
"Guide to Sangiovese"

Honestly, I believe it has much to do with experience and acceptance of the grapes’ inherent traits. Sangiovese is naturally light in color with high acidity, stern structure and flavors of tart red fruits, herbs, leather and tea leaves. When a balance is stuck between these components, the results are beautiful. However, when not allowed to ripen perfectly, the stern structure and brisk acidity seem to dry out the fruit, making the experience painful. In some parts of the world, this balance is missed by over-ripening or the excessive use of oak.

Due to its inherent traits, Sangiovese is often blended with a large number of other grape varieties, but it's important that the percentage isn't too high, as its qualities can be lost against the backdrop of too much Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah. With that said, there are many great Sangiovese-based wines that are perfectly blended with international varieties.

However, the Sangiovese purist would insist on a 100% Sangiovese or having it with more traditional Italian grapes, such as Canaiolo, Ciliegiolo, Mammolo and Colorino. It also responds well to moderate use of oak, but it loses much of its natural beauty when overdone.

In the end, Sangiovese is worth the search, and there's enough of it out there to keep you busy for a long time. Each expression has its own unique characteristics, making the exploration into this variety a never-ending journey for those wishing to delve in. In the next few months, expect more on Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and a number of Super Tuscans.

Until that time, it is my opinion that Chianti Classico is probably the best place to start, and there’s nowhere better than the 2010 vintage. Classic is a word often used to describe the long, cool growing season in 2010, with a decent amount of rain moderated by periods of extended warmth and sunshine. This mix produced exciting wines of structure with juicy acidity and bright, focused fruit that really grabs your attention and holds it from the first glass through the last. Most of these wines are drinking beautifully right now, with a few that demand some time in the cellar. All of them perform much better at the dinner table, due to their brisk acidity. These are serious Chianti Classico that show the best qualities of the region and belong in your cellar. As for 2011, I’ll talk about them later in the year, for now; stocking up on 2010 is my priority.

On To The Tasting Notes:

2010 Fontodi Chianti Classico - The nose showed great intensity with red berry fruits, Tuscan dust, savory herbs, grilled meats and mineral tones. It came in waves with a dark and concentrated bouquet. On the palate, it was firm yet bursting at its tailored seams with tart cherry and something like a rich reduction of red meat and herbs. It was quite notable for its sweet, yet tart, yet savory personality. I found myself loving this wine more and more with every taste. The 2010 Fontodi Chianti Classico really hit its sweet spot after an hour open in bottle. (93 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2010 Isole e Olena Chianti Classico - The nose was vibrant and inviting with ripe cherry, autumnal spices, undergrowth, tobacco and crushed fall leaves. On the palate, it impressed with it's silky-smooth, medium body, and juicy red fruit, which seemed to touch on all the senses, followed by hints of spice and cedar. It was warming and finessed with a refreshing finish and balanced structure, which begged for another sip. Nowhere did I find the harsh tannin or elevated acidity that would usually accompany such a young Chianti, this was simply a pleasure to drink. (92+ points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2010 Castellare di Castellina Chianti Classico - The nose showed rich black cherry, ripe plum, exotic spice and herbs with hints of animal musk grounding it to it's Tuscan origins. It was highly expressive and brooding on the nose with a dark ruby color in the glass. On the palate, a vibrant core of acidity ushered in flavors of ripe red medicinal fruit and spice, yet soft and textured. It was a pleasure to drink and finished fresh with hints of structure giving balance to it's red fruit and floral tones. An excellent wine and an amazing value. (92 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2010 Fattoria Poggiopiano Chianti Classico - The nose was a beautiful mix of ripe black cherry fruit and fresh, sweet floral tones, as notes of graphite and cinnamon rounded out the bouquet. On the palate, it was mid-weight with brisk acidity taking center stage, backed by juicy cherry and mountain herbs. A slight bitter note resonated on the finish, but didn't detract as hints of juicy red fruit and cedar faded from the palate. This was a beautiful Chianti with stunning aromatics and a great "drink me" presence on the palate, a perfect food wine. (91 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2010 Querciabella Chianti Classico - The nose showed youthful cherry and spice with crushed fall leaves and a hint of cranberry. On the palate, it was rich yet balanced with refined structure and focused red fruits. The finish lingered on with notes of cranberry and fine tannin. This wine was just a baby and will likely be a stunner in another few years. (91 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2010 San Felice Chianti Classico - The nose showed strawberry, cherry and herbs with hints of spice, animal musk and a touch of barnyard. On the palate, it showed ripe red berries and herbs with a juicy personality. The finish was full of saturating red fruits with hints of fine tannin, yet it left me with a pleasant, juicy impression. This is just what I want from an any-day Chianti. (89 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2010 Rocca delle Macie Chianti Classico - The nose was fresh and floral with cherry, cedar, spice and hints of cinnamon and herbs. It coated the palate with rich raspberry and cherry fruits which slowly faded to reveal fine tannin and mouth-watering acidity. The 2010 Rocca delle Macie Chianti Classico is firm yet satisfying with excellent presence on the palate that screamed to be paired with a plate of pasta in red sauce. (89 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2010 Antinori Chianti Classico Peppoli - The nose was flashy with a modern curve, showing medicinal cherry, deep wood tones, licorice and dark chocolate. On the palate, it was medium-weight with spicy, red berry fruits and a slightly creamy texture that quickly gave way to a bitter twang. The structure shined through on the finish with hints of drying tannin offset by sweet cherry and vanilla. The 2010 is an oak-accentuated, early-drinking and lighthearted effort meant more for a weeknight dinner than anything else, yet it still represents value in the $20 price range. (88 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2010 Vignamaggio Gherardino Chianti Classico - The nose showed cool red berries with dark earth, herbs and Tuscan spice. On the palate, I found tart red fruits with a dry yet balanced presence on the senses. The finish was medium-long with tart red berries and hint of caramel. (88 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

* A big thanks to Wine Folly for their image of "The Color of Sangiovese", make sure to check out their site and "Guide to Sangiovese".

The Italian Wine Masters: 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

It was obvious at this year’s Italian Wine Masters event that many attendees were there to taste the new 2007 Brunello vintage. However, in this humble taster’s opinion, it didn’t take long for the 2006 Brunello Riservas to steal the show.

Last year, the 2006 Brunello di Montalcino normale were firm and structured with a core of intense fruit restrained within. In other words, they were full of potential. However, it’s amazing to me what the same producers can accomplish with the extra year of aging that qualifies the wines for Riserva status.

Often, a Riserva will come from a single vineyard or a special parcel within the same vineyard as the normale bottle. Sometimes it’s just those few casks in the cellar that demand special attention. In the end, whether that extra year is spent in barrel or bottle, I find Brunello Riservas to be the bottles I choose for my cellar and well worth the extra tariff.

Comparing these wines to the 2007 vintage is like comparing apples to oranges. The ’06 Riservas have all the structure and pent up intensity as the regular bottles, but with rich, darker tones that will flesh out into layers to be peeled back through decades in your cellar.

I know it can be hard to look back when a new vintage hits the shelf. However, I believe that any serious lover of Brunello should be considering the ’06 Riservas for their cellar.

On to the notes:

2006 Capanna Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose showed dark, sweet red berries, herbs, cedar and an airy pine nettle note. On the palate, it was full, velvety and balanced with ripe red berries and spice against a firm lurking structure. The finish was long with mouth-coating tannin showing at the close. It was a total joy to drink and a bottle that has already found its way into my cellar. (96 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2006 Tenuta Oliveto Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose of the 2006 Oliveto Brunello Riserva was elegant, showing black cherry, candle wax and floral notes, with dark chocolate and herbs. On the palate, it was smooth and balanced with red fruits and spice that continued to build with time in the glass. The finish was long with sweet spices and silky tannins. (95 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2006 Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose was intense; in a word, sexy, as sweet red berries, dark chocolate and spice filled the senses. On the palate, it was structured yet still showed masses of sweet, spiced red fruits, earth and soil tones. The finish was long and staying with inner floral notes. (94 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2006 Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose showed dark, ripe red berries, soil and herbals, along with a sweet spicy sugar note. On the palate, it was velvety smooth with deep red fruits, ripe yet fine with underlying structure that dominated the finish and promised many years of development. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2006 Pertimali (LivioSassetti) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose showed dark red fruits and cedar box. On the palate, it was velvety with pure ripe red berries and earth. It was balanced to the core and only showed its refined structure in its tannic finish. (92 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2006 Pian Delle Vigne (Antinori) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Ferrovia – The nose showed black cherries with fresh-turned soil and cedar notes. It was expansive on the palate and filled the senses with tart fruits that turned to rough, drying tannins, which lasted into the finish. (91 points) Find it one Wine-Searcher!

2006 Fattoria dei Barbi (Colombini) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose showed red berries with soil and floral notes. On the palate, I found lean red fruits and herbs with a fine tannic structure that dominated the finish. This wine will need to be buried in the cellar for at least another ten years before it really starts to shine. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2006 Donatella Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose showed red berries with herbs and bread crusts. On the palate, it was angular with sour red fruits and a fine structure. The finish was medium in length and pleasant, yet this bottle simply didn’t deliver the goods. (88 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

The Italian Wine Masters: 2007 Brunello di Montalcino

When word of the Italian Wine Masters tasting hit my inbox, I was quick to hit the reply button. In the years I’ve been writing and attending tastings, I don’t recall ever attending a more comprehensive tasting of Sangiovese-based wines from Tuscany. Everything from Chianti Classico, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Brunello di Montalcino are all on display. Many of the faces you see are easily recognizable, yet each time I attend, I’m always happy to find new producers and interesting wines that I have never tasted before.

A massive crowd descended upon the
tables of 2007 Brunello di Montalcino

One of my first priorities at this year’s event was to taste 2007 Brunello. The hype over this vintage has been unavoidable. Already the pundits of wine criticism are weighing in and waxing praise upon the vintage. However, I had to wonder if it was truly worthy. Brunello has seen a string of amazing vintages with 2001, 2004 and 2006. However, many people are still recovering from the recent controversy unearthed regarding foreign varietals being added to this wine by a number of Brunello producers, a wine that is only supposed to be 100% Sangiovese by law. Even though the accusations have subsided, Brunellogate, (which this controversy has coined) left many Brunello drinkers feeling betrayed and looking to other Sangiovese-based wines from Tuscany. On top of that, further exploration of pure Sangiovese-based wines in Tuscany has shown that remarkable value can be found outside of Montalcino. Brunello as a brand has continued to rise in price, and many feel that the quality in the bottle no longer outweighs the cost.

In the end, Brunello needs a vintage that it can reinvent itself with, and 2007 may be that vintage. But does that mean that it is as good as the ’06? It really depends on what you want from your bottle of Brunello.

At this time last year, when tasting ’06 Brunello, it was nearly painful to work my way through the tasting simply because of the massive structure found in most bottles. The fruit was clean, pure and deep but not fleshy. The finish was often drying or angular. Yet, on the nose, the wines were highly expressive and layered with masses of fruit, spice and earth—everything a young Brunello should be. We will be enjoying the ’06 vintage for many decades to come, and as they mature, they will only get better.

However, the ’07s are the exact opposite. I don’t recall ever tasting young Brunello that was so vibrant and juicy on the palate. The noses on most of the wines were highly expressive and very ripe. On the palate, they were juicy and opulent, yet not overripe. Their structure could be found in the close or on the second sip, as a build-up of tannins would remind you that this wine has the capacity to age. Yet, through it all, you’d find yourself simply wanting to drink it, and that’s where I believe the ’07 vintage will really find its nitch. These are big and beautiful wines, but it’s almost impossible to keep your hands off them now. However, the ’07 vintage will not outlive ’06, and if it’s classic Brunello that you love, you will not find it here.

My top 5 picks: 2007 Brunello di Montalcino

Azienda Agricola Capanna

The Capanna farm is located north of Montalcino in the area of Montosoli. It’s a family-run operation with help from consulting enologist Paolo Vagaggini. The grapes are hand-selected and harvested, with four years of aging in Slavonian oak cask for the Brunello and five years for the Riserva. The Brunello of Capanna is traditional in style and truly speaks of its Tuscan terroir.

2007 Capanna Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed black cherry, plums, sweet and spices with savory notes of brown sauce and mountain herbs. On the palate, it was at first lean with mixed berries and herbs, but it filled out with time as the fruit turned darker yet focused with incredible depth, balance and with a fine tannic structure. It’s remarkably more open than expected at this young stage, yet its balance and structure promised a long life ahead. (93 points)

Donatella Cinelli Colombini

Donatella is a large operation and it produces wines in multiple styles, both in and outside of Montalcino. The vineyards are located in the northwest from Montalcino. The Brunello is made at Casato Prime Donno in Montalcino, a winery known to be the first in Italy to be staffed only by women. The base-level Brunello is an enjoyable yet more modern style of Brunello. However, it’s the special selection “Prime Donne” that I love, which is made in a more traditional style with aging in large oak barrels.

2007 Donatella Brunello di Montalcino Prime Donne – The nose was finessed and classic in its performance with dusty red fruits, herbs and old cedar box. On the palate, it showed high-toned red berry fruit with an airy and fresh quality. The finish was long and pure with tannins peaking through at the close. (93 points)

Tenuta Oliveto

Located in Castelnuove dell’Adate, the extreme south of Montalcino, Tenuta Oliveto was a new name to me at last year’s Italian Wine master’s event. However, this year, their wines sang. I actually found it hard to move away from the glass. Vinification takes place in Slavonian oak vats with a maceration of 18 – 20 days. From there, the Brunello sees 30 months in French oak tonneaux before being bottled and rested for another 30 months. Their Brunello is an elegant and wistful wine with soaring aromatics.

2007 Tenuta Oliveto Brunello di Montalcino – The refined nose showed red berries, airy herbal notes and powdered sugar. On the palate, it was velvety yet structured and focused with juicy black cherry and herbs. On the finish, sour berries lingered yet were turned juicy by this wine’s zesty acidity. This wine was a joy to drink. (93 points)

Il Poggione

Father and son team Fabrizio and Alessandro Bindocci make some of the best Brunello from year to year, with the belief that the secret of producing great red wines lies in tending the vines. Rigorous green harvesting is done throughout the vineyards, and selection of the grapes is done by hand. The Brunello is aged in large French oak barrels. Il Poggione is one of the largest estates in Montalcino, with 125 hectares planted with vines, yet the size of the estate never hinders the quality found in the bottle.

2007 Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed ripe strawberry, cedar and minerals with a hint of caramel. On the palate, it was soft and mouth-filling with dark red fruits, baker’s chocolate and a fine structure that was nearly masked by its ripe, focused fruit. The finish was long, long, long. (92 points)

Col d’Orcia

Col d’Orcia is one of historic properties in Brunello and one of the largest producers. The vineyards are located on the southern slope of Montalcino with 106 hectares planted to Brunello. The Bozzolino vineyard produces their Brunello di Montalcino. Aging of the wine takes place in Slavonian and selected French oak.

2007 Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed vibrant, lush red fruits, spices and herbs. On the palate, it was round yet focused with intense ripe cherry and spice notes. The finish was cut short by youthful tannins yet showed much promise. (91 points)

Other Brunelli tasted for this article

2007 Donatella Brunello di Montalcino – The nose was earthy yet elegant with ripe red berries and forest floor. On the palate, it was velvety with underlying structure and intense yet juicy red berry fruit. The finish was long and clinging to the palate. (92 points)

2007 Campogiovanni (San Felice) Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed black cherry, floral notes, sweet spice and the slightest hint of barnyard. On the palate, it had a velvety texture with ripe red berries and cinnamon spice. The finish showed its tannic structure yet still managed to carry red fruits into the close. (91 points)

2007 Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino – The nose was classic and earthy with ripe red berries, soil and minerals. On the palate, it was lean yet focused with strawberry and cedar box. It appeared smaller in scale than most of the ‘07s I’d tasted yet finessed, pure and likely able to mature into something beautiful. The finish was long, showing massive structure. (91 points)

2007 Azienda Agraria Lisini Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed red berries and spice with pepper and floral notes. On the palate, it was balanced with ripe fruits and a fine elegant structure. The finish was firm, and when placed against it’s intensity of fruit, showed good potential. (90 points)

2007 Fanti (Tenuta San Filippo) Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed ripe red berries with herbal tea and floral notes. On the palate, it showed intense red fruits and herbs that lingered through the finish. (90 points)

2007 Pian Delle Vigne (Antinori) Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed ripe berries, wood tones and spice with a hint of undergrowth. On the palate, it was lush with sour red berries and mountain herbs. The finish was long and mouth-coating. (89 points)

2007 Pertimali (Livio Sassetti) Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed strawberry fruit with undergrowth, soil and herbs. On the palate, it was soft and enveloping with red berries and spice. The finish showed a tight structure with soil and red fruit tones. (89 points)

2007 Frescobaldi Castelgiocando Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed vibrant red fruits and menthol. On the palate, it was lean with sour red berries, leading into a drying, structured finish. (88 points)

2007 Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed sour red berries and sweet spice in a bittersweet performance. On the palate, red berries and herbs were on display, yet it came across and one-dimensional and ultimately disappointing through the finish. (85 points)

2007 Fattoria dei Barbi (Colombini) Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed sour berries and herbs but it was marked by a server aroma of hay and stable. On the palate, it was soft with strawberry fruits but turned bitter and dry into the finish. (84 points)

2007 Capanne Ricci Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed dried red fruits, funk, manure and old wood. On the palate, it was juicy, showing sweet strawberry, which lasted into the finish. (84 points)

Antinori: Generations in the making

If you’re a lover of Italian wine, then you must know the name Antinori. With bottles like Guado al Tasso, Solaia and Tignanello; Antinori conquered the fine wine racket with a host of “Super Tuscans” that helped define a generation of winemaking. However, you don’t need to spend upwards of $70 to enjoy a gorgeous bottle of Tuscan juice from this winery, which is now on it’s 26th generation of ownership (that’s right, 26 generations). Antinori also produces a number of bottles in the value category that drink beautifully. One of my favorites value wines is the Antinori Chianti Classico Peppoli. Each year I look forward to the newest vintage for easy drinking and highly enjoyable Chianti.

2008 Antinori Chianti Classico Pèppoli - The nose showed dusty potpourri with fresh crushed cranberry, cinnamon stick, and dark bakers chocolate. On the palate, it was medium bodied with a high level of acidity pushing dry yet intense red fruit and mocha. The finish was long on the palate with some drying tannin and lots of dry red fruit extract. (88 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

I was a little on the fence with this wine but it opened up nicely after a couple of hours open in bottle. Once it started to show a little body on the palate, the dry red fruits and high acidity became more and more tolerable. In the end this is not Chianti for the neophyte, but does provide an interesting contrast to many of the, soft and modern, Chianti on the market these days.

I enjoyed this wine. I won’t put more in my cellar but I would be happy to accept a glass if offered. For a great value white wine from Antinori, I highly recommend the Antinori, Guado al Tasso Vermentino. It's an Italian white that smells and tastes as if it had been plucked right from a Mediterranean coast only days before you tasted it.

Vintage Sangiovese at "The Sommelier's Cellar"

In wrapping up my coverage of The Italian Wine Master’s, today I bring you my notes from “The Sommeliers’ Cellar”, a portion of the tasting that was created to showcase older vintages of the wines that were on display at the show. Some people may ask, why is this important? The reason, even though many people drink wines early after release these days, is that many of these bottles need age in order to show what they’re capable of. Brunello especially, is extremely hard to gauge in its youth.

Ready to drink
2007 San Felice Il Grigio

This is not say that all Sangiovese should be placed in a wine cellar and left for over a decade, in fact, the majority of Chianti Classico, sampled at this event, was perfectly ready to drink. However, some of the best producer’s bottles simply need time before they blossom, the Fontodi Vigna del Sorbo comes to mind. In tasting these wines and in reading these notes, you can gauge what the new release bottles may one day taste like. For instance, one thing I learned, is that the wines of Tenuta Oliveto and Col C’Orcia are worth more of my attention and should be in my cellar.

Montalcino

Lastly, what I took from this tasting is how the development of certain vintages is coming along. 1999 is truly showing that it was worth the accolades bestowed upon it in Brunello di Montalcino. The wines are stunning and just entering their drink window, with pure ripe fruits and velvety textures. 1997 continues to be a super-model vintage with all the sex appeal included. Lastly, 2001 still needs time, but continues to age gracefully, and should one day, be truly glorious.

On to the Notes:

1995 Barbi Brunello di Montalcino – Aromas of brown and burnt sugar on the nose gave way to dried red berries. On the palate, this wine was full and beautifully resolved with lush sour cherry fruit made juicy by vibrant acidity. The finish was long and reminiscent of cherries and old spice. (92 points)

1999 Campogiovanni Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose showed earth and minerals followed by raspberry and berry scented wax. On the palate, I found a soft expression of sweet strawberry fruit and old wood, which led to a short and drying finish. Unfortunately it seems that the structure of this wine will outlive its fruit. (91 points)

Find this wine on: Wine-Searcher

1980 Col C’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose showed faded strawberry, herbal tea leaves and minerals. The palate came across as savory and juicy with cherry, plum and mineral salinity. This wine may be on its down slope but it was highly enjoyable and will probably continue to drink well for many years to come. (94 points)

1997 Antinori Pian Delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed, saddle leather, cedar, strawberry and brown sugar. On the palate, this wine is full and well structured with sweet dark fruits, holiday spices and hints of herbs. It was highly enjoyable through the long fresh finish. (92 points)

Find this wine on: Wine-Searcher

1999 Tenuta di Collosorbo Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed brown sugar and herbal green stems. The palate came across and soft and velvety yet with an underlying structure and balance. Black raspberry and mulling spices fill out the palate and faded into a long gentle finish. (90 points)

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1998 Tenuta Oliveto Brunello di Montalcino – The Oliveto stood out amongst its peers with a nose of blackberry, herbs and green olive. In the mouth, this showed amazing focus of fruit against a fine acidic backbone as sour red currant coated the palate; followed by minerals and slight salinity. The finish was long, as this wine’s tongue coating fruit slowly faded away to freshness. (94 points)

2000 Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino – The nose was elegantly perfumed with floral aromatics, herbs and spice. On the palate, I found sour cherry but with little else to offer. The finish was reminiscent of the palate but very drying. This wine may just need time but at the moment its score is more representative of what’s offered on the nose as opposed to the palate. (88 points)

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1997 Camigliano Brunello di Montalcino – The nose was floral with potpourri and dark brooding fruits. On the palate, I found sweet red berries and spicy wood tones. The finish was fresh. (89 points)

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1997 Ormanni Chiant Classico Riserva – The nose of this wine reminded me of autumn, with old wood, florist shop and strawberry. On the palate, I found sweet, round red fruits, herbal tea and spices with a slight copper penny note on the finish. (90 points)

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1999 Fontodi Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo – The nose showed strawberry, rosemary, tanning leather and hints of manure. On the palate, I found a lush, full, structured expression of ripe, dark red fruits with mulling spice. The finish was long, as the ripe fruit slowly tapered off. (95 points)

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1990 Castello di Ama Chianti Classico – The nose showed vibrant red fruits, florist shop, leather and potpourri. On the palate, I found dried strawberry and spice. This wine somehow came across as young and full of life. It was a pleasure to taste and should continue to develop for many years to come. (94 points)

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The Sommelier's Cellar also include some great Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. My notes can be found HERE!