"The" Italian Wine Grape: Sangiovese

Every year, as the summer begins to melt away and hints of cooler autumn days can be seen off in the distance, I find myself craving Sangiovese. I will admit, even with my intense love of the Nebbiolo grape, that Sangiovese holds a very special place in my heart and in my cellar. You could say that Sangiovese is “The” Italian wine grape, with a storied history going back to the 18th century and its earliest documented mention in 1590. It is also the most widely-planted red wine grape variety in all of Italy. Sangiovese is the star performer behind many of Italy's premier wines, including Chianti Classico, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Brunello di Montalcino, Morellino di Scansano and many of the Super Tuscan IGT bottlings.

Sangiovese is widely planted throughout the regions 
of Tuscany, Umbria, Emilia-Romagna, Abruzzo
and the Marche

Central Italy is the area most planted with Sangiovese, often coined the Sangiovese belt. Tuscany is obviously the most famous of these regions with a number of great expressions, but you will also find it widely used in Umbria, Emilia-Romagna, Abruzzo and the Marche. Of course, Sangiovese isn't limited to Italy either, with many wines being made from California, Romania and Argentina. However, I'm still not convinced by most of these wines and find that Italy has little competition.

Courtesy of Wine Folly
"Guide to Sangiovese"

Honestly, I believe it has much to do with experience and acceptance of the grapes’ inherent traits. Sangiovese is naturally light in color with high acidity, stern structure and flavors of tart red fruits, herbs, leather and tea leaves. When a balance is stuck between these components, the results are beautiful. However, when not allowed to ripen perfectly, the stern structure and brisk acidity seem to dry out the fruit, making the experience painful. In some parts of the world, this balance is missed by over-ripening or the excessive use of oak.

Due to its inherent traits, Sangiovese is often blended with a large number of other grape varieties, but it's important that the percentage isn't too high, as its qualities can be lost against the backdrop of too much Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah. With that said, there are many great Sangiovese-based wines that are perfectly blended with international varieties.

However, the Sangiovese purist would insist on a 100% Sangiovese or having it with more traditional Italian grapes, such as Canaiolo, Ciliegiolo, Mammolo and Colorino. It also responds well to moderate use of oak, but it loses much of its natural beauty when overdone.

In the end, Sangiovese is worth the search, and there's enough of it out there to keep you busy for a long time. Each expression has its own unique characteristics, making the exploration into this variety a never-ending journey for those wishing to delve in. In the next few months, expect more on Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and a number of Super Tuscans.

Until that time, it is my opinion that Chianti Classico is probably the best place to start, and there’s nowhere better than the 2010 vintage. Classic is a word often used to describe the long, cool growing season in 2010, with a decent amount of rain moderated by periods of extended warmth and sunshine. This mix produced exciting wines of structure with juicy acidity and bright, focused fruit that really grabs your attention and holds it from the first glass through the last. Most of these wines are drinking beautifully right now, with a few that demand some time in the cellar. All of them perform much better at the dinner table, due to their brisk acidity. These are serious Chianti Classico that show the best qualities of the region and belong in your cellar. As for 2011, I’ll talk about them later in the year, for now; stocking up on 2010 is my priority.

On To The Tasting Notes:

2010 Fontodi Chianti Classico - The nose showed great intensity with red berry fruits, Tuscan dust, savory herbs, grilled meats and mineral tones. It came in waves with a dark and concentrated bouquet. On the palate, it was firm yet bursting at its tailored seams with tart cherry and something like a rich reduction of red meat and herbs. It was quite notable for its sweet, yet tart, yet savory personality. I found myself loving this wine more and more with every taste. The 2010 Fontodi Chianti Classico really hit its sweet spot after an hour open in bottle. (93 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2010 Isole e Olena Chianti Classico - The nose was vibrant and inviting with ripe cherry, autumnal spices, undergrowth, tobacco and crushed fall leaves. On the palate, it impressed with it's silky-smooth, medium body, and juicy red fruit, which seemed to touch on all the senses, followed by hints of spice and cedar. It was warming and finessed with a refreshing finish and balanced structure, which begged for another sip. Nowhere did I find the harsh tannin or elevated acidity that would usually accompany such a young Chianti, this was simply a pleasure to drink. (92+ points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2010 Castellare di Castellina Chianti Classico - The nose showed rich black cherry, ripe plum, exotic spice and herbs with hints of animal musk grounding it to it's Tuscan origins. It was highly expressive and brooding on the nose with a dark ruby color in the glass. On the palate, a vibrant core of acidity ushered in flavors of ripe red medicinal fruit and spice, yet soft and textured. It was a pleasure to drink and finished fresh with hints of structure giving balance to it's red fruit and floral tones. An excellent wine and an amazing value. (92 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2010 Fattoria Poggiopiano Chianti Classico - The nose was a beautiful mix of ripe black cherry fruit and fresh, sweet floral tones, as notes of graphite and cinnamon rounded out the bouquet. On the palate, it was mid-weight with brisk acidity taking center stage, backed by juicy cherry and mountain herbs. A slight bitter note resonated on the finish, but didn't detract as hints of juicy red fruit and cedar faded from the palate. This was a beautiful Chianti with stunning aromatics and a great "drink me" presence on the palate, a perfect food wine. (91 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2010 Querciabella Chianti Classico - The nose showed youthful cherry and spice with crushed fall leaves and a hint of cranberry. On the palate, it was rich yet balanced with refined structure and focused red fruits. The finish lingered on with notes of cranberry and fine tannin. This wine was just a baby and will likely be a stunner in another few years. (91 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2010 San Felice Chianti Classico - The nose showed strawberry, cherry and herbs with hints of spice, animal musk and a touch of barnyard. On the palate, it showed ripe red berries and herbs with a juicy personality. The finish was full of saturating red fruits with hints of fine tannin, yet it left me with a pleasant, juicy impression. This is just what I want from an any-day Chianti. (89 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2010 Rocca delle Macie Chianti Classico - The nose was fresh and floral with cherry, cedar, spice and hints of cinnamon and herbs. It coated the palate with rich raspberry and cherry fruits which slowly faded to reveal fine tannin and mouth-watering acidity. The 2010 Rocca delle Macie Chianti Classico is firm yet satisfying with excellent presence on the palate that screamed to be paired with a plate of pasta in red sauce. (89 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2010 Antinori Chianti Classico Peppoli - The nose was flashy with a modern curve, showing medicinal cherry, deep wood tones, licorice and dark chocolate. On the palate, it was medium-weight with spicy, red berry fruits and a slightly creamy texture that quickly gave way to a bitter twang. The structure shined through on the finish with hints of drying tannin offset by sweet cherry and vanilla. The 2010 is an oak-accentuated, early-drinking and lighthearted effort meant more for a weeknight dinner than anything else, yet it still represents value in the $20 price range. (88 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2010 Vignamaggio Gherardino Chianti Classico - The nose showed cool red berries with dark earth, herbs and Tuscan spice. On the palate, I found tart red fruits with a dry yet balanced presence on the senses. The finish was medium-long with tart red berries and hint of caramel. (88 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

* A big thanks to Wine Folly for their image of "The Color of Sangiovese", make sure to check out their site and "Guide to Sangiovese".

“The Italian Wine Masters,” Part 2 Chianti Classico

The Italian Wine Masters is a combined effort between The Consorzi Brunello di Montalcino, Chianti Classico, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore. It’s a trade show of sorts, where industry professionals and press are invited to meet the owners and representatives of over 100 wineries from Tuscany and the Veneto, Valdobbiadene wine growing region.

San Felice &  Lilliano Chianti Classico

When I arrived at The Italian Wine Masters, one of the first things on my mind was to develop a strategy. What to taste first, how much time to dedicate to each room, and how to pick producers to visit were the most important things to settle on if I was going to have a successful day. I was surprised to see that my first pick, to visit the Chianti Classico room first, was not a popular choice.

Most attendees flocked to Brunello di Montalcino or to the Prosecco room. However, I’m of the opinion that of all the wines that were represented, Chianti Classico offers the most enjoyment for the best value. Not only that; when I’m coming home from a hard day of work, I don’t feel like decanting a Brunello for a few hours or popping some bubbly; I simply feel like opening a bottle of Chianti Classico. If you don’t agree, then maybe you owe it to yourself to explore these wines a little deeper. Chianti Classico has come a long way in the last two decades.

There were always quality producers turning out remarkable bottles, but to find those producers in the overpopulated sea of mediocre Chianti was near impossible. However, things have changed, and Chianti Classico has made a serious comeback. It’s been a long time since Chianti was just a pizza parlor wine.

Some would say that the best bottles could even stand toe to toe with Brunello. Another development is how many producers are using more traditional blends (Sangiovese with Canaiolo or Colorino). In addition, many producers have begun to use 100% Sangiovese in their Chianti Classico. The end result, whether it’s a showy bottle or an unassuming dinner wine, is that Chianti Classico is truly defining itself as “the wine” of Tuscany.

Before delving into the notes, I would like to mention one other thing that I consider important when selecting these wines for your cellar.

The Chianti listed on these pages is truly Chianti Classico. “Classico” is referring to a specific appellation between Florence and Siena. If you find a bottle of “Chianti”, but not “Chianti Classico.” it will simply not be the same thing. “Chianti” was created for wines made around the “Chianti Classico” region, where they were made in the style of Chianti. Without getting into too many politics, I will say from experience that you will find a more reliable bottle of wine when choosing “Chianti Classico.”

The run-down (by score):
2004 Castello di Ama Chianti Classico (92 points)
2007 Fontodi Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo (92 points)
2007 Bibbiano Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Capannino (91 points)
2007 Castello di Ama Chianti Classico (91 points)
2006 Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Oro (91 points)
2007 Agricola San Felice Chianti Classico Riserva “Il Grigio” (91 points)
2006 Agricola San Felice Chianti Classico Riserva Poggio Rosso (91 points)
2006 Carpineto Chianti Classico Riserva (90 points)
2008 Bibbiano Chianti Classico Montornello (89 points)
2007 Capannelle Chianti Classico Riserva (89 points)
2006 Castello di Ama Chianti Classico (89 points)
2007 Fontodi Chianti Classico (89 points)
2008 Ruffino Chianti Classico Tenuta Santedame (89 points)
2008 Tenuta Lilliano Chianti Classico (89 points)
2007 Tenuta Lilliano Chianti Classico Riserva (89 points)
2008 Bibbiano Chianti Classico (88 points)
2009 Carpineto Chianti Classico (88 points)
2007 Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Tradizionale (88 points)
2008 Agricola San Felice Chianti Classico (88 points)

On to the notes:

2008 Bibbiano Chianti Classico – The nose showed wild berry and cranberry. On the palate, I found red fruit against refreshing acidity on a lean yet juicy frame that finished fresh. This would make a great house red for a relaxing weeknight. (88 points)

2008 Bibbiano Chianti Classico Montornello – The Montornello was more refined than the normale with cherry and licorice on the nose. The palate was slightly restrained by this wine’s fine structure but should open up in decanter. A gorgeous expression of spiced red fruit lingered on the finish. (89 points)

2007 Bibbiano Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Capannino – The nose showed cherry and dark woods with hints of cinnamon. On the palate, this wine showed a full, structured body with sweet red fruits and a fine, lingering finish. (91 points)

2007 Capannelle Chianti Classico Riserva – The nose showed ripe strawberry, leather and earthy undergrowth. The palate wasn’t as full as you’d expect from the nose, yet it’s balanced and showed dark red fruits and minerals into its medium-long finish. (89 points)

2009 Carpineto Chianti Classico – The nose showed raspberry, dark wood, undergrowth and a hint of manure in a rustic expression of Chianti. On the palate, I found vibrant red fruit that stayed through the finish. (88 points)

2006 Carpineto Chianti Classico Riserva – The 2006 Chianti Classico Riserva kept the same rustic feel on the nose as the normale but with more delineated fruit. On the palate, I found dark red fruits and cedar, leading into an enjoyably fresh finish. (90 points)

2004 Castello di Ama Chianti Classico – The 2004 Castello di Ama Chianti Classico, was easily one of the highlights of the tasting. The nose showed forest notes with earth, undergrowth, mint and cherries. On the palate, I found a beautiful balance of concentration and acidity as lush red fruit and wood was kept in check by the wine’s fine structure. (92 points)

2006 Castello di Ama Chianti Classico – The nose showed dark red fruits, savory beef notes and animal musk. On the palate, I found red fruit against a balanced frame but little else before the wine’s tannin numbed my palate. With age, this wine may blossom but on this day it was dwarfed by the structured 2004 and the rich 2007. (89 points)

2007 Castello di Ama Chianti Classico – On the nose, I found vibrant black cherry with spice and woodsy notes. The palate was full and bursting with flavors of mint and rich raspberry. The finish was medium-long with sweet red fruits lingering on the palate. (91 points)

2007 Fontodi Chianti Classico – The 2007 Fontodi Chianti Classico showed woodland aromatics with undergrowth and hint of evergreen ushering in its red fruits. On the palate, it showed its grace through light, yet well-focused red fruit with hints of tobacco and a bit of drying tannin going into the medium finish. Ultimately, this wine may need to be accompanied by food to reach its apogee. (89 points)

2007 Fontodi Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo – To drink this, and then have the 1999 later in the day, was an interesting peak into what was truly buried beneath the youthful structure of this wine. The 2007 showed red fruits with spice and vanilla on the nose. The palate was structured, showing mulling spice with leather and sour red berries. I believe it’s enjoyable now with a good decant, but it will be truly amazing if left to age in your cellar. (92 points)

2008 Ruffino Chianti Classico Tenuta Santedame – This wine showed perfumed, sour red berries on the nose, followed by forest notes. The palate was light yet juicy with red fruits, but a little dry into the finish. I was impressed by this unassuming Chianti and wouldn’t mind it with a plate of pasta and red sauce. (89 points)

2007 Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Tradizionale – The nose showed red fruits, clay and earth with hints of manure. It was a bit gruff on the palate and drying, which I’ve come to expect from this bottling. The finish was long with spiced red fruits. (88 points)

2006 Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Oro – On the nose, I found dark red fruits with hints of chalk dust. On the palate, it showed an ethereal elegance that I found lacking in the 2004. Hopefully this may be a sign of the producer moving away from the dark brooding character that this wine seemed to epitomize over the last few vintages. The palate showed vibrant black cherry with tobacco, minerals. The finish was long yet slightly tannic. This bottle may find its way into my cellar. (91 points)

2008 Agricola San Felice Chianti Classico – The nose showed crushed red berries, soil and green stems. On the palate, I found sweet, round fruit with a nice balance of acidity. (88 points)

2007 Agricola San Felice Chianti Classico Riserva “Il Grigio” – The nose showed animal musk and dusty black cherry. On the palate, I found vibrant strawberry fruit, spice and earthy minerals. This wine is well structured and has great balance. It was a pleasure to drink. (91 points)

2006 Agricola San Felice Chianti Classico Riserva Poggio Rosso – The nose showed candied cranberry fruit with spice and mint. On the palate, I found red and black fruits with hints of wood on a velvety full body. The finish is long and staying but a bit sweeter than I usually prefer. However, there’s no denying the quality in the glass. (91 points)

2008 Tenuta Lilliano Chianti Classico – The nose showed cherry and earth with notes of forest floor. On the palate, I found round red fruits with hints of violet candies. The finish was long and showed cinnamon and spice. (89 points)

2007 Tenuta Lilliano Chianti Classico Riserva – The nose showed red fruit and pecorino. On the palate, I found silky raspberry fruit and licorice. The finish was pleasant and juicy. (89 points)