2010 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva: Worth Waiting For?

The market has been waiting for the 2010 Brunello Riservas, with hopes that critics will go even further beyond the lofty scores of the regular ’10 Brunellos. However, I for one don’t believe they’ll get their wish.

What do we love about 2010 Brunello? I really do hope that you have chosen to open one of two bottles buy now, because what 2010 has is something that I’ve never seen in such a classic vintage before…they’re drinkable. Young? YES. However, the 2010 Normale Brunellos have a brilliance and purity of fruit that is so intense, while also remaining refined, that it nearly envelopes the tannins. That’s the magic of 2010. Throughout 2015, the 2010s underwent a metamorphosis in the bottle. Frankly, it’s difficult to read many of the critics’ notes from early last year and then compare them to what we taste today—because the wines have gotten even better. I’m completely serious.

So what does that mean for the average 2010 Brunello Riserva? It means that the same brilliant fruit that I love about the vintage spent another year in oak—absorbing tannin and concentrating further. In my opinion, these wines didn’t require anything more than they already had. The extra year in oak unfortunately dominated much of the purity and drinkability that I found in most 2010s.

There are exceptions, of course. There are a small number of wines that come across as utterly classic, beautiful versions of Brunello Riserva, which deserve a place in our cellars. Great examples are Il Poggione, Stella di Campalto and Tenuta Buon Tempo, which was new producer for me, yet one of the top Riservas of the event. However, don’t expect to drink the majority of these wines for at least a decade, if not longer.

I’m really looking forward to tasting more of the Riservas, and I’m sure that some critics will disagree with my opinions; but from what’s I’ve tasted so far, the best example of 2010 Brunello Riserva are amazing, while the rest fall below their Brunello Normale counterparts.

On to the tasting notes:

2010 Il Poggione (Proprietá Franceschi) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli – The nose was dark and intense with ripe red fruits and dark floral tones offset by savory seared meat, smoke and minerals. On the palate, I found tart black cherry and herbs over a firm layer of acidity and tannin, which gave way to a long and structured finish full of inner floral tones and bitter cherry. This wine is classic to the core and one of my favorite ’10 Riservas tasted to date. Bury it in the cellar and good things will come. (96 points)

2010 Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano – The nose was deep, rich and intense with black cherry, brown spice, balsamic tones and sweet herbs. On the palate, it was as smooth as silk with the weight of velvet, showing rich raspberry, cedar, herbs and classic tannins. The finish was long on red fruit, along with notes of leather and crushed stone. This is so dark and brooding yet seduces the senses on its sheer, balanced mass. (96 points)

2010 Caprili Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose was dark and viral, showing dried cherry, savory spice, moist earth and a hint of grapefruit. On the palate, it was all at once silky, yet intense with tart, acid-driven red fruits, exotic spice citrus and floral tones. Tart cherry, inner floral tones and spiced citrus all came together on the finish displaying the wild side of Sangiovese. It’s an exotic and truly gorgeous wine. (94 points)

2010 Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – Dark and brooding yet full of potential, the 2010 Riserva opened up with a display of ripe strawberry, black cherry, and plum, along with floral perfumes and a hint of pepper. On the palate, it was dense, monolithic and hard to judge, yet there was a core of dark red fruit which seemed determined to one day explode. It finished on dried berries, leather and fine tannin. This is in need of time in the cellar, yet it should one day emerge as something truly special. (94 points)

2010 Tenuta Buon Tempo Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose was intense and layered, leading with dried earth and undergrowth, yet quickly switching gears to reveal ripe strawberry, cherry and fresh herbal tones. On the palate, silky textures gave way to minerals and fine tannin, as dark red fruits, spice and hints of leather permeated the senses. The finish was tight, youthfully so, yet concentrated, refined—classic. This is one of my favorite 2010 Riservas to date. (94 points)

2010 Podere Le Ripi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Lupi e Sirene – The Le Ripi was one of the more interesting and unique Brunello presented this year. Here I found a bouquet of dark earth and minerals up front, which opened to reveal plum, tart cherry, menthol and hints of herbs. On the palate, it was silky with a fine acid-tannin balance, dark cherry, and deep minerality. The finish was long with an almost salty display of bitters, cherry, minerals and herbs. I had to ask myself if I really liked this, yet the answer ended up being a resounding YES—and having watched it evolve in the glass, I believe the best is yet to come. (93 points)

2010 Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio All’Oro – The nose was dark and brooding, showing medicinal cherry, menthol and dark chocolate. On the palate, weighty textures flowed across the senses like heavy silk along with bitter black cherry and fine grained tannins. The long finish showed dark chocolate, black cherry, plum and herbal notes. The oak is quite present in this wine today, but it’s easy to see where it’s going and it reminds me quite a bit of the ’99 tasted earlier this year. (92 points)

2010 Azienda Palazzo Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – On the nose, I found a powerful display of dark red fruits, earth and forest floor. Silky textures contrasted by grippy tannin saturated the senses with intense dark fruits and spice on the palate. It finished long, as tannin coated the senses, along with dried red fruits, leather and hints of herbs. (92 points)

2010 Val di Suga (Angelini) Brunello di Montalcino Poggio al granchio – The nose was dark, perfumed and refined with classic dark red fruits, earth and hints of leather. On the palate, silky textures were firmed up by fine tannin, giving way to bitter dark fruits, earth and inner floral tones. The finish was structured with medium length, showing dried berries and herbs. (92 points)

2010 Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose was restrained, showing dark red fruits and floral perfumes. On the palate, I found soft textures followed by dark bitter cherry and tannin which swept across the senses and firmly took hold. It finished on inner floral tones and dried cherry. It was very hard to read in this youthful state, but my fear is that some of the brilliance of 2010 fruit may have been lost in this wine’s élevage. (91 points)

2010 Il Palazzone Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose displayed a dark, rich character with black cherry out front followed by chalky minerality. On the palate, it was soft with ripe red fruits, cedar and hints of spice, and it finished with dark inner floral tones. This is one of the softer and easier-to-like examples of 2010 Brunello that I’ve tasted, and it makes for a good option for early drinking. (91 points)

2010 Palazzina Le Macioche Brunello di Montalcino Le Macioche – The nose showed tart red fruits, plum, undergrowth and herbal tones. On the palate, silky textures were offset by brisk acidity with gripping tannin, tart red fruit and stems. The finish was medium-long with notes of dried red fruits. (90 points)

2010 Pian Delle Vigne (Antinori) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Ferrovia – The nose was dark and brooding with minerals and spice up front, followed by violet floral tones and crushed raspberry fruit. On the palate I found silky textures, which were quickly firmed up by the wine’s tannic structure, showing small red and blackberry fruit, spice and cedar. The finish was tight and restrained, with remnants of dried cherry and inner florals. I wanted to like this wine more, but I have to wonder if the fruit will outlast its imposing structure. (90 points)

2010 Piccini Brunello di Montalcino Villa Al Cortile Riserva – The nose was restrained and slightly reductive, showing notes of ripe cherry and rubber, with hints of sweet florals and herbs. On the palate, light red fruits with a bump of brisk acidity made themselves known, leading into a medium-long finish defined by mouth-coating tannins. (89 points)

2010 Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose was restrained, giving little more than dried berries, hints of spice and minerals. On the palate, I found ripe red fruits and inner floral tones on a feminine frame. It finished reserve with notes of strawberry and herbs. Frankly, I was a little confused here, as I would have thought this to be a Rosso or Brunello from a much cooler vintage. (89 points)

Article and Tasting Notes by: Eric Guido

Originally published at The Cellar Table

The Comeback Vintage: 2012 Brunello di Montalcino

Welcome back to Benvenuto Brunello

By: Eric Guido (Originally published at The Cellar Table Blog)

The first time I heard a reference to the 2012 vintage was while tasting the 2010 Brunellos at Benvenuto over two years ago. The problem was that the 2010’s were so promising upon release, that as often as we were told that the 2012 Rossos showed the tremendous potential of the vintage ahead, we simply couldn’t get past the excitement of the ‘10s. After all, this was the vintage that drew a line in the sand, and brought consumers back to Brunello after years of lackluster vintages.

Then came 2011, where the ripeness of fruit could literally be felt as it saturated the senses, and, in my case, actually made my teeth ache. We were told that this wasn’t such a bad thing and that the wines would be great for near-term consumption. Unfortunately, with the exception of only a small number of producers, 2011 remains a vintage in which I found very little to get excited about.

However, we can put that all aside, because now that the 2012 vintage is hitting our shores, Brunello lovers have something to be excited about. Before I say anything else, let’s address the number one question on everyone’s mind: are these as good as the 2010’s? Unfortunately, that’s a difficult question to answer, because there is some variability that’s starting to become much more apparent throughout the region. The fact is that the terroir of Montalcino has become very important, and many consumers (and winemakers) aren’t really ready to talk about it.

The north-hill soils of Le Chiuse,
mixing clay, sand and rock.

You can see a trend in Montalcino, and that’s the release of single vineyard or parcel selected bottles that come either from the more northern vineyards or from the higher elevations of southern vineyards. The reason for this is the promise that these locations perform better in warmer vintages, and let’s be honest, 2012 was a warm vintage. Many people are avoiding that fact, as the term “warm vintage” has become synonymous with overripe. However, that is a broad generalization for a region that spans 24,000 hectares (that’s 59,000 acres), with altitudes ranging between 120 - 650 meters above sea level.

Just to put things in perspective, when many producers were asked about 2012, a large percentage compared the vintage to 2011 from the perspective of warmth and the length of the growth cycle. However, there was one very big difference. Where 2011 saw drastic spikes of heat throughout the season, 2012 remained consistently warm, which allowed the vines to adapt. 2012 was also very dry from winter through August, with just enough precipitation in the early fall to aid in maturation, yet the extended drought still resulted in a 14% smaller harvest than 2011.

The barrel aging room of Poggio di Sotto
in Castelnuovo dell’Abate

So now that the numbers are out of the way, let’s talk about the wines. The 2012’s, in general, are mid-weight wines with gorgeous aromatics and intensely concentrated fruit on the palate that is offset by fresh acidity. In most cases the tannins are unexpectedly refined, especially considering the vintage conditions, and left me with a classic expression on the finish. At their best, they are enjoyable now on their freshness, (which isn’t something you’d expect from a ripe vintage, but that 2012 has in spades) yet also structured enough to go strong in the cellar for ten to fifteen years--and possibly beyond.

The vineyards of Il Poggione, south of
Sant'Angelo in Colle

The pitfalls of the vintage lay in the lower elevations and areas that experience a more Mediterranean climate. Here we need to pick and choose. Though there are a number of standouts, such as the ever-reliable Il Poggione and Uccelliera, other producers turned out a set of wines that are highly enjoyable and easily gulpable, which ultimately is not what the average Brunello buyer is looking for.

When all is said and done, 2012 is the vintage we’ve been waiting for. These wines will not take twenty years to come around, yet are serious contenders for mid-term cellaring. They will be enjoyable early because of their aromatics and youthful appeal, but will also go the long haul in the cellar. In the end, it’s a highly enjoyable vintage and a perfect comeback following the 2011’s.

On To The Tasting Notes:

The sun rising over Montalcinos northeast

Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino 2012 - Upon first pour, the 2012 Brunello di Montalcino is dark, imposing and monolithic; yet with time in the glass, an array of crushed cherry, sweet herbs, cedar, and moist earth tones come forward. On the palate, I'm finding velvety textures with a fresh core of vibrant acidity adding verve, as notes of tart berry, cherry, plum and exotic spice set upon the senses. The finish is long and structured with herbal dark red fruits lasting throughout. I can imagine that five years or more will do this wine a lot good, and I can’t wait to see where it goes from there. (95 points)

Tenuta Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino Vigna La Casa 2012 - The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna La Casa is intense and layered with fresh red berries up front, giving way to earth tones, savory herbs and minerals. On the palate, silky-broad textures coat the senses while tart red berries and zesty acidity provide lift. Hints of spice, leather and inner florals last on the finish, along with fine-grain tannin that promises years of development. (95 points)

Castello Romitorio in the northwest of Montalcino

Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino Filo di Seta 2012 - The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Filo di Seta is gorgeous, showing depths of black and red fruits, dark floral tones and notes of undergrowth. On the palate, I'm finding soft, velvety textures which are contrasted by zesty acid, minerals and tart red fruits, with notes of spice and cedar. It finishes long, structured and balanced with persistent red berry fruits and spices. What a difference this northwestern vineyard makes from the normale. This is a beautiful 2012 Brunello for the cellar. (94 points)

Altesino Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli 2012 - The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli is stunning with dark red fruits, plum, sweet florals, dark chocolate, and hints of undergrowth. Here I'm finding silky, deep textures which seem to coat all of the senses, giving way to dried red berries, earth, leather tones and fine tannin. It finishes structured, yet with sweet tannin and a coating of dark red fruit. (94 points)

Il Poggione (Proprietá Franceschi) Brunello di Montalcino 2012 - The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino lifts up with a spellbinding and perfumed bouquet, with notes of ripe strawberry, cranberry, dried spices and undergrowth that develop in the glass. On the palate, soft textures offset vibrant acidity and fine tannin, as inner florals, earth and berry tones soothed the senses. It finishes long on dried berries, hints of spice and young tannin, promising many years of development. This is simply a pleasure to taste, and it is deceptively enjoyable today--yet the best is yet to come. (94 points)

Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino 2012 - The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino from Castello ROmitorio is gorgeous, with a bouquet of black cherry, floral undergrowth, moist soil tones, and sweet spices wafting up from the glass, developing to show dusty dried flowers. On the palate it's silky with a medium-bodied frame, savory minerals and tart cherries. This is incredibly long on the finish with concentrated red fruits, a saline flourish and fine tannins. (93 points)

The aging cellar of Uccelliera and Voliero

Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino 2012 - The nose on the 2012 Brunello di Montalcino is classic, displaying crushed strawberry, dusty florals, earth, leather and hints of cinnamon spice. On the palate, silky textures host notes of tart red berry, exotic spice, minerals, energized by zesty acidity, and ending with a web of fine tannin. The finish is long and refined with a classic structure and persistent red fruits. The 2012 should have many, many years of development in store for us. (93 points)

Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino Prime Donne 2012 - The nose on the 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Prime Donne is deep and intense with luscious, ripe blackberry fruit tones backed by notes of sweet herbs and dusty florals. It has a an almost-juicy persona with vibrant yet silky textures showcasing black and red berries with savory mineral underpinnings. It finishes long and textural on sweet spice and cherry liquor. Yum. (93 points)

Capanna Brunello di Montalcino 2012 - The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino sports soaring dark red fruits and floral tones with hints of spice and damp earth. On the palate, I'm finding velvety textures with smooth tannins, crushed strawberry, plum and sweet inner floral tones. The finish is long, showing dark fruits and fine tannin that coats the senses. (93 points)

Castelgiocondo (Marchesi de' Frescobaldi) Brunello di Montalcino 2012 - The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino is dark with masses of sweet and spicy black cherry, chocolate and floral tones. Here I'm finding soft textures backed by intensely concentrated dark red fruits, spice and hints of mocha. Even through the richness in this glass, a wave vibrant acidity provides freshness, which lasts throughout the finish. This may not be my personal preference for Brunello, but it’s a solid performer for those looking for an extroverted style. (92 points)

Col di Lamo Brunello di Montalcino 2012 - The 2012 Col di Lamo Brunello di Montalcino shows perfumed red berry fruit and floral tones with hints of dusty spice and wax. On the palate, I'm finding silky, refined textures offset by saturating dark red fruits and fine tannin. Persistent red berries continue to resonate through the finish, nearly masking the refined tannin that coated the senses. (92 points)

Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino 2012 - The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino is dark and earthy with notes of crushed strawberry, exotic spices and hints of undergrowth. On the palate, I'm finding silky textures on a medium-bodied frame with tart, dark red fruits and lifting inner floral tones. Its fine tannins make themselves known throughout the finish, along with a lasting impression of concentrated wild berry fruit. (92 points)

Altesino Brunello di Montalcino 2012 - Here I find a lifted mix of red berry fruit, plum, and dark chocolate as the 2012 Brunello di Montalcino lifts from the glass. I displays silky textures made vibrant though zesty acidity with spicy red fruits and hints of leather. It finishes medium-long on dried strawberry and hints of herbs. Not too shabby. (92 points)

Vines thriving in Montalcinos
warm and dry southwest.

Talenti Brunello di Montalcino 2012 - The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino displays perfumed florals, dark cherry, and hints of moist soil. Its silky textures flood the senses over a medium-bodied frame with notes of tart cherry and hints of herbs, yet there is a pleasing richness here that surprises me. The finish displays medium length and fresh red fruits. (91 points)

Tenuta Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino 2012 - The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino displays a perfumed bouquet with notes of tart red berry and minerals. On the palate, I'm finding medium-bodied textures with dark red fruits ushered in by acid-driven silky textures. Hints of earth and spice linger on the finish. (91 points)

Voliero Brunello di Montalcino 2012 - The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino is remarkably pretty and refined, displaying tart red berries, spice and dusty earth. On the palate, an intensely fruited burst of energy levels out into silky, balanced textures with a core of crystalline minerality and spice. The finish is long, with light tannins coating the senses and notes of dried cherry lingering on. (91 points)

Tenuta Buon Tempo Brunello di Montalcino "P. 56" 2012 - The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino "P. 56" shows pretty red florals with dusty spice, minerals and hints of candied cherry. On the palate, soft textures offset persistent red berry fruits, dark earth and savory minerality. It finishes on bitter cherry, spice and hints of fine-grained tannins. (91 points)

Tenuta Buon Tempo Brunello di Montalcino 2012 - The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino lifts up with a mix of plum, cherry and cranberry, before giving way to woodsy earth tones and spice. Here I'm finding tart red fruits on a medium-bodied frame with a core of minerality which settles on the back palate. The finish is shorter than expected, seeming almost hollow, with hints of bitter red fruits lingering. (89 points)

Pian Delle Vigne (Antinori) Brunello di Montalcino 2012 - The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino is dark, imposing and intense with spicy candied red fruit and notes of plum. On the palate I'm finding weighty textures with sweet and sour cherry and spice, yet it's a bit one-dimensional. The finish is long with bitter dark red fruits. (88 points)

A Chianti Lovers Dream: The 2010 Riservas

The '95 Felsina Chianti Classico
Riserva is still going strong at age 19

An article by: Eric Guido

Some wine is meant for the cellar, while most can go right to the table. But these generalizations tend to fade when talking about Chianti Classico. In their youth, these are fun and fruity wines with enough acidity and structure to carry a meal. However, as they mature they soften, grow darker, and begin to display more earth, natural wood and spice. It is this evolution that keeps me putting bottles of Chianti Classico in the cellar.  In a good vintage, it is one of the most versatile wines being made today.  However, where a regular Chianti Classico (normale) will bring you night after night of enjoyment at your dinner table, the Riserva level wines mature beautifully in the cellar.  Which brings us to the 2010 Chianti Classico Riservas.

Classic is a word often used to describe the long, cool growing season in 2010, with a decent amount of rain moderated by periods of extended warmth and sunshine. This mix produced exciting wines of structure with juicy acidity and bright, focused fruit that really grabs your attention and holds it from the first glass through the last. Most of the straight Chianti Classico's are drinking beautifully right now, yet the 2010 vintage played right into winemakers' hands, allowing them to create Riserva level wines of exceptional quality and agebility. These are serious Chianti Classico that show the best qualities of the region and belong in your cellar. The early drinking 2011 vintage will give you more to drink over the next few years, but for me; stocking up on 2010 is my priority, because these wines should provide two decades (or more) of enjoyment.

Here's a list of some of the best 2010 Chianti Classico Riservas, in a number of price ranges, that I've tasted this year.

On To The Tasting Notes:

2010 San Giusto a Rentennano Chianti Classico Le Baroncole - The nose showed an intense burst of woodsy raspberry and cherry with hints of floral undergrowth, cedar and herbs, offset by a whiff of dark chocolate. On the palate, this showed silky textures with a vibrant, sexy personality, coating the senses with ripe red fruits and spice. Beneath it all was a refined structure that you could miss on a single sip under all that intense fruit. The finish turned fresh, yet grainy tannin could still be felt on the palate. This was a remarkably balanced wine with a slight inflection of oak, that's drinking great now, but should get even better with time. (94 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher! (avg. $45)

2010 Fontodi Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo - The nose was restrained at first, yet became more giving with time in the decanter. Tart black cherry, moist fall leaves, dried flowers and licorice were all on display, yet still holding back. On the palate, it was tense, yet concentrated and dark with compact cherry, wood (not oak) and leather notes, kept in check by a stern tannic backbone. The finish was youthful and ungiving, needing years in the cellar to show it’s true colors, yet the potential is there. This is a wine for the cellar. (94 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher! (avg. $75)

2010 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva - The nose was restrained and youthful, showing young cherry, dried flowers, animal musk, minerals, and Tuscan dust. On the palate, it showed silky textures with tart cherry and dried spices, which quickly firmed up with fine-grained tannin. Compact flavors of red fruit and cedar lingered long on the dry, tense finish. This 2010 riserva is in need of five to ten years in the cellar, and should be wonderfully classic as it matures. (92 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher! (avg. $27)

2010 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva - The nose showed cherry with hints of stem, animal musk and a bright herbal note, which provided lift. On the palate, I found vibrant red fruits, spice, old wood tones and hints of soil. The finish showed hints of structure with juicy red fruits.  This is a great Chianti Classico Riserva in the value category; it's drinking great now with proper decanting, and can go a decade or more in the cellar. (91 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher! (avg. $20)

2010 Antinori Chianti Classico Villa Antinori Riserva - The nose showed ripe black cherry, minty herbs, cedar and dark oak looming in the background. On the palate, it was rich yet remained fresh throughout. Spicy red fruit, leather and notes of dark chocolate cascaded along the palate, leaving concentrated red berry fruit on the finish. Although the oak was more pronounced than I usually prefer, I still found it enjoyable. This wasn't my cup of tea, but if oak with your Sangiovese is a quality you appreciate, this wine will be for you. (89 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher! (avg. $32)

Old School, New Tricks: Avignonesi

By Eric Guido

The name Avignonesi has always been synonymous with Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. In fact, they were one the pioneers of the DOCG, and a winery that has been producing wines from the region since 1984. However, up until recently, it was only the Vin Santo that really made it onto my radar (and a truly amazing Vin Santo it is). For the longest time, Avignonesi Vino Nobile fell into a bracket of wines that I didn't appreciate: namely, wines that were unidentifiable as Sangiovese-based wines. There's no question why I felt this way, especially with the blending regulations of the DOCG permitting up to 30% other varieties into the wine.

Courtesy of Wine Folly
"Guide to Sangiovese"

Sangiovese is a finicky grape that takes a lot of work to get it right. Once you've put all of the effort into growing and vinifying Sangiovese--to add 30% Cabernet, Merlot or Syrah, which will overwhelm and eliminate nearly all of the grapes inherent traits--is, in my opinion, a waste. There are many wine makers that will battle against the idea of a pure Sangiovese based wine (too hard to get right and keep balanced) and I too have enjoyed many Chianti that were blended with small amounts of other local varieties. But when a winery gets it right, pure Sangiovese can be a thing of beauty. Avignonesi has now joined the ranks of those daring vintners that have decided to make a true 100% Sangiovese-based Vino Nobile di Montepulciano--and I couldn't be happier.

Virginie Sayerys of Avignonesi

So what's changed, besides the blending? The fact is that the changes at Avignonesi go right to the core. In 2009, the company was bought by silent partner, Virginie Sayerys. Virginie, Belgium by birth and a lawyer before getting into the wine business, took her own beliefs in natural living, and then applied them to the production at Avignonesi. The winery is soon to be certified organic, along with many biodynamic principals, which have been adopted. Her focus on Sangiovese and terroir has brought a new elegance and balance to the entire range, while maintaining traditional Tuscan qualities. 2010 was the first Vino Nobile to be 100% Sangiovese, and the second I tasted it, I smiled from ear to ear. Frankly, to taste a wine like this, from a winery with such a large production (750,000 bottles a year), is a breath of fresh air.

The formidable Desiderio 85% Merlot / 15% Cabernet
& the dark classic; Grifi 60% Sangiovese / 40% Cabernet

Having loved the 2010 so much, I knew I had to explore the rest of their range, and the other day I finally got my chance. I was able to work through the core wines of the Avignonesi portfolio. To say I was impressed would be an understatement. A standout among them was the 2011 Avignonesi Rosso, which is an incredible value at a retail of $19. The 2011 Vino Nobile was intense and a great follow-up to the 2010. This was also the first chance I had to taste the Desiderio and Grifi. These were all great wines, but I would strongly urge readers to look at the Rosso and Vino Nobile. In a world where we pay $50 - $100 for the average Brunello, a 100% Sangiovese-based Vino Nobile can be a strong contender, and at $30 retail, a no brainier.

On to the wines:

2011 Avignonesi Rosso di Montepulciano (94% Sangiovese / 6% local varieties) – The nose showed ripe wild berry, sweet spice, hints of crushed blackberry, violet floral tones, and a hint of animal musk. On the palate, it was juicy with dark red fruits, yet soft and velvety, giving way to earth and spice with a vibrant acidity, which kept the mouth watering. The finish was impressive for its persistence as red berry, undergrowth and soil lingered on. The Avignonesi Rosso was a pleasant surprise, not overdone, yet fun with enough depth to keep it interesting throughout. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2011 Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (100% Sangiovese) – The nose alone was intoxicating with perfumed dark-red fruits, sweet Tuscan spice, violet floral notes, and the slightest touch of oak. On the palate, it was intense and robust, with concentrated dark red fruits, balsamic notes and black licorice. The fruit nearly covered this wine’s impressive structure, finishing with brisk acidity and remnants of red fruit. This was a massive wine which can be enjoyed now, but it should be even better in a few years’ time. (92+ points) Find it on Wine-Searcher! (Soon to arrive in the U.S.)

2010 Avignonesi Desiderio Cortona (85% Merlot / 15% Cabernet) – The nose was dark and brooding, yet inviting and sensual, showing mixed berries, undergrowth, spice and a hint of oak. On the palate, it was velvety and plush with black fruit, herbs and intense acidity. The finish showed cranberry and minerals against this wine’s youthful structure. Yet the fruit persisted. This is a very young wine in need of time in the cellar. (92 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2010 Avignonesi Grifi Toscana IGT (60% Sangiovese / 40% Cabernet) – The 2010 Grifi was as dark as night with notes of plum, black cherry, dark soil tones and herbs. With time in the glass, hints of sweet wood spice and floral tones came forward. It was large-scaled and silky smooth on the palate, yet it’s youthful nature quickly took control with an intense, tightly wound expression of massive dark fruit, soil and minerals tones. Hints of violet, bitters and dark fruit lasted through the finish, even with this wine’s impressive structure. It was a beautifully balanced wine which simply needs time to come around. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Producer website: Avignonesi

The Difference a Vintage Can Make

Two very different wines and two very different vintages,
both beautiful for different reasons.

Any reader of mine will know that I am a huge fan of Chianti Classico. Years of trail and error, let downs and happy surprises, have left me with some very firm opinions about Chianti and Sangiovese from Tuscany in general. For one thing, many of these wines can age, as we will see from 2010. Yet, there’s absolutely nothing wrong with young Chianti, when made in a more open style or from a more accessible vintage, like 2011.

This brings me to San Giusto a Rentennano Chianti Classico, which is traditionally styled Chianti made from Sangiovese (95%) and a small amount of Canaiolo (5%). I decided to do a little side-by-side comparison tonight of the 2010 and 2011 vintages. Two very different wines, both marked by the vintages from which they hail. However, there’s also a little something more. In 2011, portions of the grapes added to the wine were whole clusters (stems and all), a practice found often in Burgundy, but seldom in Tuscany. The difference is quite noticeable and worth tasting for exploratory purposes alone.

In the end, these are both beautiful wines, for very different reasons, and I look forward to following them throughout the years. I would hope my readers would give them a chance as well.

On To The Notes:

2010 San Giusto a Rentennano Chianti Classico – The nose was radiant and dark showing rich black cherry, hints of cedar, undergrowth and crushed fall leaves. On the palate, it was tight yet focused with tart red fruits, spice and herbs. Vibrant acidity kept the mouth watering, yet this wine needs a couple of years in the cellar to unwind. The finish showed a bitter twang with drying tannin coating the senses. This was enjoyable, but more for it’s, possible, future potential than it’s performance tonight. (90 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher! (avg. cost $20)

2011 San Giusto a Rentennano Chianti Classico – The nose was bright and vibrant, showing tart cherry, stemmed strawberries, and autumnal spice with hints of pine. On the palate, it caressed the senses with soft red fruits accompanied by textbook Sangiovese acidity. This wine practically sizzled on the palate, with notes of cedar, herbs and spice. The finish was refined, showing hints of structure, yet fully enjoyable today. (91 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher! (avg. cost $20)

The 2010 is tight and tart, a wine that I’d love to revisit in a few years. If the fruit unwinds and catches up with the absolutely beautiful bouquet, then this wine could one day be gorgeous. The 2011 is more open, yet still a stern, acid driven Sangiovese. Today, I’d reach for the 2011, without question. Yet, I have a feeling that the 2010 will improve for years to come.

Good Wine Can Suck Too!

So I was drinking a wine tonight from a producer that has become a bit of a darling of some critics I respect. The time came to give the wine a score. I thought hard about it. The nose, the palate, the finish and the overall impression came into play. In the end-- 88 points!

For a moment I felt bad. WHY? Because we are all somehow trained to feel that even in an off vintage, we should give handicap points to good producers… God forbid we hurt their egos, right?

Drought

Let's think about this for a minute. If we have a great vintage, and the wine scores 96 points, then we all feel good about it. However, we then have just a good vintage, and the wine scores 96 points. Somehow, it's glossed over. Then we have a bad vintage, and the wine sinks to a whopping 94 points, and we are then told to buy the producer, not the vintage. But what if the vintage really did affect the wine? What if it's short, diluted, uninteresting or just simply bad?

This reminds me of 2003 Barolo. How can a wine that's simply "okay" to drink today still score 93 points? I'd rather drink anything at 87-90 points, than most 2003 Barolo.

Hail Damage

I guess that in the end, this is a rant. But it's a rant because I stand in a happy place while scratching my head. A place where I know the best producers aren't giving me free wine, so I don't have to worry about them taking away their free wine. I don't have to worry about people comp’ing me plane tickets, drivers, vacations, or a case or two that fell off the back of the truck and into my trunk.

In the end, I write what I think about wine. Good or bad, I don't care. I buy 50% of what I taste, and that which is given to me receives the same treatment. If the person who submits the sample doesn't like what I have to say--I don't care.

So, yes, good producers can make bad wine.

Now, in all fairness, this is not a bad wine, but it certainly isn’t a 91-93 point wine. If I found it in a bargain bin for $20, I’d buy it. I’m sure after this post I won’t ever see any free samples from them… Oh well.

2005 Podere Poggio Scalette Il Carbonaione Alta Valle della Greve IGT - The nose showed a mix of small tart berries with savory spice notes, herbal tones, animal musk and graphite. On the palate, it was silky and accessible with dark red fruits, mocha and spice. The balanced acidity kept things lively, yet this fell slightly short toward the close, finishing with tart red fruits that faded quickly.

Admittedly, my expectations were high, and so my judgment may be slightly obscured. With that said, the bouquet was amazing, but this vintage simply lacks any serious structure and staying power. At $20 this would have been a 90, but with the higher price tag, I can't buy into the hype. (88 points)

Morellino: The Drink Me Now Sangiovese

Sangiovese comes in many different forms, the most well--known being Chianti Classico, Vino Nobile, and Brunello. These wines all have a number of things in common and each have their own virtues. Chianti Classico walks the line between tart to ripe fruit and earthy wood tones, with tannins and acidity that usually need a little time to balance out. Vino Nobile adds a dollop of violet floral notes, slightly less acidity and a broader structure. Brunello is all about structure and restrained power, and because of this, requires patience. However, there’s one thing that all of these wines are usually missing, and that is early accessibility. Allow me introduce you to Morellino di Scansano.

Morellino di Scansano fills a niche that was truly missing in the Tuscan lineup of Sangiovese-based wines. The average Morellino (which is the name or synonym for Sangiovese in the Maremma), is a young, ripe and rich Sangiovese with all the accessibility you could ever hope for. It’s not a wine that you have to be afraid of when opening a bottle at a party or for a group of wine neophytes.

What makes Morellino so different has a lot to do with location and aging requirements. The Maremma is located in the coastal hills of southern Tuscany, with a warm Mediterranean climate, which promotes easier ripening. What’s more, the maritime influences regulate the Maremma on hot summer days, so that the ever so important ying yang of warm days and cool nights, which is so important to the production of quality wine grapes, is ever-present.

However, growing perfectly ripe Sangiovese is only one part of the equation; it’s what the winemaker does with those grapes that makes or breaks the final wine, and that’s where Morellino is truly set apart. Without any required aging included in the DOCG regulations, Morellino can go from harvest to fermentation and then release by the March following harvest. This makes for an incredibly pure expression of ripe Sangiovese, which makes up at least 85% of the final blend for any Morellino. The wines are affordable and intended for early consumption, but that’s not to say that these are simple wines. Don’t confuse value and early accessibility with lack of character. In fact it’s quite the opposite, as many of these wines will continue to improve for three to five years in the cellar.

So I ask you to go out and find a bottle of Morellino di Scansano. It may be one of the most enjoyable and affordable Italian reds that you’ve had in a while. To get you started, I’ve included my tasting notes of some of my favorites, which are all available at retail. There is something for everyone.

On to the Wines:

2011 Fattoria Le Pupille (Elisabetta Geppetti) Morellino di Scansano – The nose was fresh with ripe strawberry fruit, hints of dusty spice and violets. A rich meatiness seemed to peak out from the background along with saline minerals. On the palate, it was juicy with black cherry fruit, a hint of citrus and blackberry. It was persistent with an excellent balance of acidity. Dark red fruit lingered on the finish with inner floral tones, leaving a refreshed sensation with a slight tug of tannin on the palate. This is a very enjoyable wine that is highly recommended. (92 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher! (avg. $18)

2011 Poggio Morino Morellino di Scansano – The nose was showy and intense with concentrated red and blue berries, cocoa, dusty spice box, dark wood and minerals. On the palate, masses of ripe dark fruit washed across the senses with a balanced wave of acidity keeping it juicy and fresh. Hints of pepper and spice along with meaty-savory notes and a saline minerality were left in its wake. Dark fruits and black pepper remained on the finish with an unexpected mouthwatering quality. This is an excellent wine where the Syrah component really shines through in a positive way. Well done and a great value. (92 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher! (avg. $16)

2011 La Mozza Morellino di Scansano I Perazzi - The generous and fruity nose showed dusty tart cherry, sweet spice, tobacco, hints of pepper and mountain herbs. On the palate, it was lush and juicy with ripe dark fruit that turned spicy and brighter toward the close. The finish was slightly firm, yet in a very pleasurable manner as it offset the ripe, juicy personality of this wine. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher! (avg. $14)

2010 Mocali Morellino di Scansano – The nose showed sweet cherry and strawberry, with wood spice, dark chocolate, cedar and saw dust. On the palate, it was silky smooth with ripe cherry and currant fruit on a medium bodied, juicy frame. The wine finished fresh, but it was a little short with tart red fruit, yet remained juicy throughout. With its mass appeal and easy-going structure, this would make for a great weeknight sipper. (88 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher! (avg. $14)

2011 Fattoria il Palagio Morellino di Scansano – The nose showed spiced cherry, pomegranate, dark wood tones and a hint of barnyard. On the palate, it was juicy with cherry fruit and rustic, herbal notes. The finish showed hints of tannin, which added character to the otherwise soft, fruity experience. (87 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher! (avg. $16)

2010 Tenute Le Preselle Morellino di Scansano – The nose showed ripe black cherry, minerals, dusty Tuscan spice and herbs with a rustic, yet fun personality. On the palate, it was juicy with soft textures, showing blackberry, cherry and a hint of cedar. The finish was clean and fresh, leaving only a hint of structure behind. This was easy-going and fun to drink, a great bridge wine for someone looking for a youthful introduction to Sangiovese. (86 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher! (avg. $15)

A Vinous Evolution: 2010 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

By: Eric Guido

As we dig a little deeper into Tuscany and the many expressions of Sangiovese, we come to one of the most famous DOCGs in Tuscany: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. However, as famous as the name may be, and as far back as its origins may go (789), Vino Nobile has suffered over the last few decades. The reasons are various, but one that has always seemed to make the most sense is that, for a time, the producers lost focus and became idol, selling their wine on the value of its name alone. Those days are far behind us now, yet Vino Nobile still struggles to compete with consumer dollars against Chianti Classico and Brunello, and that is a shame. This became painfully apparent when shopping for these wines, which was not as easy as you would expect, living in one of the biggest cities in the world.

However difficult they were to find, in the end, they are worth the hunt. At a tasting some three years ago, I was fortunate enough to be treated to a tasting of vintage Vino Nobile. Most were from 2001, at the time with nine years of maturity under their belts. This tasting also included a large selection of Brunello and top shelf Chianti Classico Riservas. To say that Vino Nobile held its own would be an understatement--the wines were gorgeous, and I was suddenly a believer.


What separates Vino Nobile from other Tuscan reds starts with a unique clone of Sangiovese, named Prugnolo Gentile. Characteristically, it's often described as having a slightly lower level of acidity than your typical Sangio from Chianti and softer tannins than a Brunello. This along with the gentle, rolling slopes of Montepulciano (allowing more sunlight) and sandier, more alluvial soils, which benefits growth, helps the grapes to ripen easier (a constant issue with Sangiovese). This places Vino Nobile in a category all it's own, something of a happy middle ground.

The blending rules of Vino Nobile require a minimum of 70% Sangiovese, with up to 30% other varieties permitted. Many producers today have chosen to use traditional Tuscan grapes to fill out the blend, such as Mammolo (which lends a note of violet to the bouquet), Canaiolo Nero and Colorino. However, you will find a number of wines blended with other international varieties, such as Merlot. Two years of aging are required for Vino Nobile (three for Riservas), and producers have the choice to use large botti or small barrels. What is truly exciting to me is the current trend of adding more Sangiovese and aging less in new wood. The results are wines of beautiful varietal character and purity, which showcase the engaging structure and juicy acidity of these wines.

Over the last few years, I’ve delved more and more into Vino Nobile, but nowhere does the increase in quality and changes in winemaking styles show so dramatically than in the 2010 vintage. Typically, I enjoy Vino Nobile after a year or two following release, or four to five years post-vintage; yet in 2010, there’s an open-knit feel to the structure of these wines, which plays beautifully into the mix of lush fruit and vibrant acidity. They have a “drink me now” personality, but these wines will age. Don’t let their early appeal fool you; the structure is there, but what counts even more is the balance that these wines demonstrate. I will be adding a number of these to my cellar.

On to The Wines:

2010 Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano - The nose was floral, strong yet graceful, with a bouquet of ripe cherry, strawberry, potpourri and a sweet Tuscan dustiness. It entered the palate focused with wonderful verve, as fresh red fruits were ushered in by juicy acidity. Notes of cinnamon spice, cedar and hints of mountain herbs formed toward the close and lasted into the finish. As its flavors tapered off, fine tannin remained behind, tugging at the senses. This was enjoyable now, with energy to spare, and should improve or years to come. (92 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher! (avg. $29)

2010 Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano - The nose showed tart cherry and black currant, with mountain herbs, minerals, dark coca and the slightest hint oak. On the palate, it was angular at first, giving more with time in the glass as it resolved into a soft yet acid-driven and vibrant expression of Sangiovese. Flavors of tart berry, savory reduction sauce and stone laden minerals flowed into the finish, as fine tannins pulled at the senses, leaving hints of espresso and cherry. (91 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher! (avg. $29)

2010 Azienda Agricola Dei Vino Nobile di Montepulciano - The nose was fruity and intense with tart cherry, cranberry, along with hints of citrus peel, herbs and cedar. On the palate, it was soft yet with enough juicy acidity to keep it engaging. Ripe red fruits with hints of cinnamon and dried herbs danced around the palate, even if a tad short; it left tart cherry and hints of spice on the finish. This wine truly dazzled me for its honest red fruits and juicy personality. It’s also a good value. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher! (avg. $23)

2010 Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano - The nose was suave with masses of black cherry, dark chocolate, floral perfumes and a hint of rich strawberry jam. It entered like velvet on the palate, giving flavors of spiced cherry, cedar and mineral notes, all kept fresh by balanced acidity and a sheen of well-managed oak. The medium-long finish was dry with concentrated red fruit extracts, black licorice and a hint of dark coco. (89 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher! (avg. $26)

2010 Fattoria del Cerro Vino Nobile di Montepulciano - The nose showed candied cherry, autumnal spices, floral violet tones, undergrowth and hints of wet minerals. On the palate it was lean yet juicy with ripe red berry, cedar and espresso. The balance leaned toward acidity, making this a great pairing at the dinner table but a little hard to comprehend on its own. The finish turned dry, leaving red berry soaked tannin coating the senses. (87 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher! (avg. $19)




Related articles at The V.I.P. Table:
New found love for Vino Nobile
“The Italian Wine Masters,” Part 3 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Producer Spotlight: Crociani