The Italian Wine Masters: 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

It was obvious at this year’s Italian Wine Masters event that many attendees were there to taste the new 2007 Brunello vintage. However, in this humble taster’s opinion, it didn’t take long for the 2006 Brunello Riservas to steal the show.

Last year, the 2006 Brunello di Montalcino normale were firm and structured with a core of intense fruit restrained within. In other words, they were full of potential. However, it’s amazing to me what the same producers can accomplish with the extra year of aging that qualifies the wines for Riserva status.

Often, a Riserva will come from a single vineyard or a special parcel within the same vineyard as the normale bottle. Sometimes it’s just those few casks in the cellar that demand special attention. In the end, whether that extra year is spent in barrel or bottle, I find Brunello Riservas to be the bottles I choose for my cellar and well worth the extra tariff.

Comparing these wines to the 2007 vintage is like comparing apples to oranges. The ’06 Riservas have all the structure and pent up intensity as the regular bottles, but with rich, darker tones that will flesh out into layers to be peeled back through decades in your cellar.

I know it can be hard to look back when a new vintage hits the shelf. However, I believe that any serious lover of Brunello should be considering the ’06 Riservas for their cellar.

On to the notes:

2006 Capanna Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose showed dark, sweet red berries, herbs, cedar and an airy pine nettle note. On the palate, it was full, velvety and balanced with ripe red berries and spice against a firm lurking structure. The finish was long with mouth-coating tannin showing at the close. It was a total joy to drink and a bottle that has already found its way into my cellar. (96 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2006 Tenuta Oliveto Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose of the 2006 Oliveto Brunello Riserva was elegant, showing black cherry, candle wax and floral notes, with dark chocolate and herbs. On the palate, it was smooth and balanced with red fruits and spice that continued to build with time in the glass. The finish was long with sweet spices and silky tannins. (95 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2006 Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose was intense; in a word, sexy, as sweet red berries, dark chocolate and spice filled the senses. On the palate, it was structured yet still showed masses of sweet, spiced red fruits, earth and soil tones. The finish was long and staying with inner floral notes. (94 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2006 Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose showed dark, ripe red berries, soil and herbals, along with a sweet spicy sugar note. On the palate, it was velvety smooth with deep red fruits, ripe yet fine with underlying structure that dominated the finish and promised many years of development. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2006 Pertimali (LivioSassetti) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose showed dark red fruits and cedar box. On the palate, it was velvety with pure ripe red berries and earth. It was balanced to the core and only showed its refined structure in its tannic finish. (92 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2006 Pian Delle Vigne (Antinori) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Ferrovia – The nose showed black cherries with fresh-turned soil and cedar notes. It was expansive on the palate and filled the senses with tart fruits that turned to rough, drying tannins, which lasted into the finish. (91 points) Find it one Wine-Searcher!

2006 Fattoria dei Barbi (Colombini) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose showed red berries with soil and floral notes. On the palate, I found lean red fruits and herbs with a fine tannic structure that dominated the finish. This wine will need to be buried in the cellar for at least another ten years before it really starts to shine. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2006 Donatella Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose showed red berries with herbs and bread crusts. On the palate, it was angular with sour red fruits and a fine structure. The finish was medium in length and pleasant, yet this bottle simply didn’t deliver the goods. (88 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

The Italian Wine Masters: 2007 Brunello di Montalcino

When word of the Italian Wine Masters tasting hit my inbox, I was quick to hit the reply button. In the years I’ve been writing and attending tastings, I don’t recall ever attending a more comprehensive tasting of Sangiovese-based wines from Tuscany. Everything from Chianti Classico, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Brunello di Montalcino are all on display. Many of the faces you see are easily recognizable, yet each time I attend, I’m always happy to find new producers and interesting wines that I have never tasted before.

A massive crowd descended upon the
tables of 2007 Brunello di Montalcino

One of my first priorities at this year’s event was to taste 2007 Brunello. The hype over this vintage has been unavoidable. Already the pundits of wine criticism are weighing in and waxing praise upon the vintage. However, I had to wonder if it was truly worthy. Brunello has seen a string of amazing vintages with 2001, 2004 and 2006. However, many people are still recovering from the recent controversy unearthed regarding foreign varietals being added to this wine by a number of Brunello producers, a wine that is only supposed to be 100% Sangiovese by law. Even though the accusations have subsided, Brunellogate, (which this controversy has coined) left many Brunello drinkers feeling betrayed and looking to other Sangiovese-based wines from Tuscany. On top of that, further exploration of pure Sangiovese-based wines in Tuscany has shown that remarkable value can be found outside of Montalcino. Brunello as a brand has continued to rise in price, and many feel that the quality in the bottle no longer outweighs the cost.

In the end, Brunello needs a vintage that it can reinvent itself with, and 2007 may be that vintage. But does that mean that it is as good as the ’06? It really depends on what you want from your bottle of Brunello.

At this time last year, when tasting ’06 Brunello, it was nearly painful to work my way through the tasting simply because of the massive structure found in most bottles. The fruit was clean, pure and deep but not fleshy. The finish was often drying or angular. Yet, on the nose, the wines were highly expressive and layered with masses of fruit, spice and earth—everything a young Brunello should be. We will be enjoying the ’06 vintage for many decades to come, and as they mature, they will only get better.

However, the ’07s are the exact opposite. I don’t recall ever tasting young Brunello that was so vibrant and juicy on the palate. The noses on most of the wines were highly expressive and very ripe. On the palate, they were juicy and opulent, yet not overripe. Their structure could be found in the close or on the second sip, as a build-up of tannins would remind you that this wine has the capacity to age. Yet, through it all, you’d find yourself simply wanting to drink it, and that’s where I believe the ’07 vintage will really find its nitch. These are big and beautiful wines, but it’s almost impossible to keep your hands off them now. However, the ’07 vintage will not outlive ’06, and if it’s classic Brunello that you love, you will not find it here.

My top 5 picks: 2007 Brunello di Montalcino

Azienda Agricola Capanna

The Capanna farm is located north of Montalcino in the area of Montosoli. It’s a family-run operation with help from consulting enologist Paolo Vagaggini. The grapes are hand-selected and harvested, with four years of aging in Slavonian oak cask for the Brunello and five years for the Riserva. The Brunello of Capanna is traditional in style and truly speaks of its Tuscan terroir.

2007 Capanna Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed black cherry, plums, sweet and spices with savory notes of brown sauce and mountain herbs. On the palate, it was at first lean with mixed berries and herbs, but it filled out with time as the fruit turned darker yet focused with incredible depth, balance and with a fine tannic structure. It’s remarkably more open than expected at this young stage, yet its balance and structure promised a long life ahead. (93 points)

Donatella Cinelli Colombini

Donatella is a large operation and it produces wines in multiple styles, both in and outside of Montalcino. The vineyards are located in the northwest from Montalcino. The Brunello is made at Casato Prime Donno in Montalcino, a winery known to be the first in Italy to be staffed only by women. The base-level Brunello is an enjoyable yet more modern style of Brunello. However, it’s the special selection “Prime Donne” that I love, which is made in a more traditional style with aging in large oak barrels.

2007 Donatella Brunello di Montalcino Prime Donne – The nose was finessed and classic in its performance with dusty red fruits, herbs and old cedar box. On the palate, it showed high-toned red berry fruit with an airy and fresh quality. The finish was long and pure with tannins peaking through at the close. (93 points)

Tenuta Oliveto

Located in Castelnuove dell’Adate, the extreme south of Montalcino, Tenuta Oliveto was a new name to me at last year’s Italian Wine master’s event. However, this year, their wines sang. I actually found it hard to move away from the glass. Vinification takes place in Slavonian oak vats with a maceration of 18 – 20 days. From there, the Brunello sees 30 months in French oak tonneaux before being bottled and rested for another 30 months. Their Brunello is an elegant and wistful wine with soaring aromatics.

2007 Tenuta Oliveto Brunello di Montalcino – The refined nose showed red berries, airy herbal notes and powdered sugar. On the palate, it was velvety yet structured and focused with juicy black cherry and herbs. On the finish, sour berries lingered yet were turned juicy by this wine’s zesty acidity. This wine was a joy to drink. (93 points)

Il Poggione

Father and son team Fabrizio and Alessandro Bindocci make some of the best Brunello from year to year, with the belief that the secret of producing great red wines lies in tending the vines. Rigorous green harvesting is done throughout the vineyards, and selection of the grapes is done by hand. The Brunello is aged in large French oak barrels. Il Poggione is one of the largest estates in Montalcino, with 125 hectares planted with vines, yet the size of the estate never hinders the quality found in the bottle.

2007 Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed ripe strawberry, cedar and minerals with a hint of caramel. On the palate, it was soft and mouth-filling with dark red fruits, baker’s chocolate and a fine structure that was nearly masked by its ripe, focused fruit. The finish was long, long, long. (92 points)

Col d’Orcia

Col d’Orcia is one of historic properties in Brunello and one of the largest producers. The vineyards are located on the southern slope of Montalcino with 106 hectares planted to Brunello. The Bozzolino vineyard produces their Brunello di Montalcino. Aging of the wine takes place in Slavonian and selected French oak.

2007 Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed vibrant, lush red fruits, spices and herbs. On the palate, it was round yet focused with intense ripe cherry and spice notes. The finish was cut short by youthful tannins yet showed much promise. (91 points)

Other Brunelli tasted for this article

2007 Donatella Brunello di Montalcino – The nose was earthy yet elegant with ripe red berries and forest floor. On the palate, it was velvety with underlying structure and intense yet juicy red berry fruit. The finish was long and clinging to the palate. (92 points)

2007 Campogiovanni (San Felice) Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed black cherry, floral notes, sweet spice and the slightest hint of barnyard. On the palate, it had a velvety texture with ripe red berries and cinnamon spice. The finish showed its tannic structure yet still managed to carry red fruits into the close. (91 points)

2007 Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino – The nose was classic and earthy with ripe red berries, soil and minerals. On the palate, it was lean yet focused with strawberry and cedar box. It appeared smaller in scale than most of the ‘07s I’d tasted yet finessed, pure and likely able to mature into something beautiful. The finish was long, showing massive structure. (91 points)

2007 Azienda Agraria Lisini Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed red berries and spice with pepper and floral notes. On the palate, it was balanced with ripe fruits and a fine elegant structure. The finish was firm, and when placed against it’s intensity of fruit, showed good potential. (90 points)

2007 Fanti (Tenuta San Filippo) Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed ripe red berries with herbal tea and floral notes. On the palate, it showed intense red fruits and herbs that lingered through the finish. (90 points)

2007 Pian Delle Vigne (Antinori) Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed ripe berries, wood tones and spice with a hint of undergrowth. On the palate, it was lush with sour red berries and mountain herbs. The finish was long and mouth-coating. (89 points)

2007 Pertimali (Livio Sassetti) Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed strawberry fruit with undergrowth, soil and herbs. On the palate, it was soft and enveloping with red berries and spice. The finish showed a tight structure with soil and red fruit tones. (89 points)

2007 Frescobaldi Castelgiocando Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed vibrant red fruits and menthol. On the palate, it was lean with sour red berries, leading into a drying, structured finish. (88 points)

2007 Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed sour red berries and sweet spice in a bittersweet performance. On the palate, red berries and herbs were on display, yet it came across and one-dimensional and ultimately disappointing through the finish. (85 points)

2007 Fattoria dei Barbi (Colombini) Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed sour berries and herbs but it was marked by a server aroma of hay and stable. On the palate, it was soft with strawberry fruits but turned bitter and dry into the finish. (84 points)

2007 Capanne Ricci Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed dried red fruits, funk, manure and old wood. On the palate, it was juicy, showing sweet strawberry, which lasted into the finish. (84 points)

“The Italian Wine Masters,” Part 4 Prosecco

The Italian Wine Masters is a combined effort between The Consorzi Brunello di Montalcino, Chianti Classico, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore. It’s a trade show of sorts, where industry professionals and press are invited to meet the owners and representatives of over 100 wineries from Tuscany and the Veneto, Valdobbiadene wine growing region.

Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore

The question that comes to mind is: does the world understand that Prosecco can, and should, be more than an aperitif or palate-cleansing table wine? I’m here to say that it certainly should.

I’ve enjoyed many glasses of Prosecco in my life, and I’ve been moved by a handful of them. However, in most cases, it was simply that I wasn’t putting enough effort into finding wines of character. I’m not saying that Prosecco should stop being a highly enjoyable and easily drinkable dinner wine, but what I am saying is if you have disregarded it as nothing more than an easy-drinking aperitif, then you have done yourself a disservice.

Prosecco comes primarily from the Veneto region in the Conegliano Valdobbiadene. The wines that truly impressed me were from a handful of producers and, in most cases, from the Cartizze growing region, within the Conegliano Valdobbiadene. In my opinion, the volume, nuances and depths of flavors that these wines can reach easily make the argument that they can stand shoulder-to-shoulder with bubbly from around the world.

However, I would be remiss not to mention that there were a number of affordable, easy-drinking, unassuming and highly enjoyable Proseccos at this event, and I urge you to try both styles.

The run down, by score:
93 points - 2009 Val d’Oca Valdobbiadene Superiors di Cartizze Spumante
92 points - 2009 Col Vetoraz Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Dry Millestimato
91 points - Soligo Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Brut
91 points - 2009 Col Vetoraz Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze Spumante
90 points - Col Vetoraz Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Brut
90 points - Bellenda Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Extra dry Miraval.
89 points - Col Vetoraz Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Extra Dry
89 points - Val d’Oca Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Brut
89 points - Val d’Oca Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Extra Dry millesimato
89 points - 2009 Perlage Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Extra Dry col di Manza Rive di Ogliano

On to the notes:

Bellenda Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Extra dry Miraval – The nose showed apple and citrus fruits. On the palate, this wine was refreshing and lively with granny smith apple and a hint of minerals leading to a vibrant and fresh finish. (90 points)

Soligo Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Brut – The nose showed tropical fruits and an unmistakable hint of banana. On the palate, the tropical fruit continues, backed by vibrant acidity and a pleasant, soft finish. (91 points)

Col Vetoraz Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Brut – The nose showed lemon and pear with green stems and floral notes. On the palate, I found crisp acidity and flavors of green apple. The finish was long with herbs and stone fruit. (90 points)

Col Vetoraz Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Extra Dry – The nose showed apricot, butter and citrus. On the palate, I found fresh notes of lemon peel and minerals. The finish was refreshing and light. (89 points)

2009 Col Vetoraz Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Dry Millestimato – The nose showed citrus and floral herbs. On the palate, this Prosecco was rich yet vibrant with layers of flavors. Stone fruit, minerals, white cherry and hints of salinity glided across the palate into a long refreshing finish. (92 points)

2009 Col Vetoraz Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze Spumante – The nose showed ripe peach and apple. The palate was soft yet vibrantly fresh with sweet apple and citrus notes. The finish was refreshing and light. (91 points)

Val d’Oca Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Brut – The nose showed pear and hints of tropical fruits. On the palate, I found green apple backed by zesty acidity with an herbal finish. (89 points)

Val d’Oca Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Extra Dry millesimato – The nose showed minerals, clay, yeast and ripe stone fruits. On the palate, I found pear with a hint of sweetness, which ended fresh into the finish. (89 points)

2009 Val d’Oca Valdobbiadene Superiors di Cartizze Spumante – The nose showed almond extract, sage and spicy butter cookie, yet remained vibrantly fresh. On the palate, I found ripe apricot and nutty tones with tongue-curling acidity. The finish was light and mouthwatering. This was one of the best Prosecco’ I’ve ever tasted. (93 points)

2009 Perlage Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Extra Dry col di Manza Rive di Ogliano – The nose showed fresh flowers and peach. On the palate, it was fresh and soft with a hint of herbs and lime. (89 points)

“The Italian Wine Masters,” Part 2 Chianti Classico

The Italian Wine Masters is a combined effort between The Consorzi Brunello di Montalcino, Chianti Classico, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore. It’s a trade show of sorts, where industry professionals and press are invited to meet the owners and representatives of over 100 wineries from Tuscany and the Veneto, Valdobbiadene wine growing region.

San Felice &  Lilliano Chianti Classico

When I arrived at The Italian Wine Masters, one of the first things on my mind was to develop a strategy. What to taste first, how much time to dedicate to each room, and how to pick producers to visit were the most important things to settle on if I was going to have a successful day. I was surprised to see that my first pick, to visit the Chianti Classico room first, was not a popular choice.

Most attendees flocked to Brunello di Montalcino or to the Prosecco room. However, I’m of the opinion that of all the wines that were represented, Chianti Classico offers the most enjoyment for the best value. Not only that; when I’m coming home from a hard day of work, I don’t feel like decanting a Brunello for a few hours or popping some bubbly; I simply feel like opening a bottle of Chianti Classico. If you don’t agree, then maybe you owe it to yourself to explore these wines a little deeper. Chianti Classico has come a long way in the last two decades.

There were always quality producers turning out remarkable bottles, but to find those producers in the overpopulated sea of mediocre Chianti was near impossible. However, things have changed, and Chianti Classico has made a serious comeback. It’s been a long time since Chianti was just a pizza parlor wine.

Some would say that the best bottles could even stand toe to toe with Brunello. Another development is how many producers are using more traditional blends (Sangiovese with Canaiolo or Colorino). In addition, many producers have begun to use 100% Sangiovese in their Chianti Classico. The end result, whether it’s a showy bottle or an unassuming dinner wine, is that Chianti Classico is truly defining itself as “the wine” of Tuscany.

Before delving into the notes, I would like to mention one other thing that I consider important when selecting these wines for your cellar.

The Chianti listed on these pages is truly Chianti Classico. “Classico” is referring to a specific appellation between Florence and Siena. If you find a bottle of “Chianti”, but not “Chianti Classico.” it will simply not be the same thing. “Chianti” was created for wines made around the “Chianti Classico” region, where they were made in the style of Chianti. Without getting into too many politics, I will say from experience that you will find a more reliable bottle of wine when choosing “Chianti Classico.”

The run-down (by score):
2004 Castello di Ama Chianti Classico (92 points)
2007 Fontodi Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo (92 points)
2007 Bibbiano Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Capannino (91 points)
2007 Castello di Ama Chianti Classico (91 points)
2006 Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Oro (91 points)
2007 Agricola San Felice Chianti Classico Riserva “Il Grigio” (91 points)
2006 Agricola San Felice Chianti Classico Riserva Poggio Rosso (91 points)
2006 Carpineto Chianti Classico Riserva (90 points)
2008 Bibbiano Chianti Classico Montornello (89 points)
2007 Capannelle Chianti Classico Riserva (89 points)
2006 Castello di Ama Chianti Classico (89 points)
2007 Fontodi Chianti Classico (89 points)
2008 Ruffino Chianti Classico Tenuta Santedame (89 points)
2008 Tenuta Lilliano Chianti Classico (89 points)
2007 Tenuta Lilliano Chianti Classico Riserva (89 points)
2008 Bibbiano Chianti Classico (88 points)
2009 Carpineto Chianti Classico (88 points)
2007 Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Tradizionale (88 points)
2008 Agricola San Felice Chianti Classico (88 points)

On to the notes:

2008 Bibbiano Chianti Classico – The nose showed wild berry and cranberry. On the palate, I found red fruit against refreshing acidity on a lean yet juicy frame that finished fresh. This would make a great house red for a relaxing weeknight. (88 points)

2008 Bibbiano Chianti Classico Montornello – The Montornello was more refined than the normale with cherry and licorice on the nose. The palate was slightly restrained by this wine’s fine structure but should open up in decanter. A gorgeous expression of spiced red fruit lingered on the finish. (89 points)

2007 Bibbiano Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Capannino – The nose showed cherry and dark woods with hints of cinnamon. On the palate, this wine showed a full, structured body with sweet red fruits and a fine, lingering finish. (91 points)

2007 Capannelle Chianti Classico Riserva – The nose showed ripe strawberry, leather and earthy undergrowth. The palate wasn’t as full as you’d expect from the nose, yet it’s balanced and showed dark red fruits and minerals into its medium-long finish. (89 points)

2009 Carpineto Chianti Classico – The nose showed raspberry, dark wood, undergrowth and a hint of manure in a rustic expression of Chianti. On the palate, I found vibrant red fruit that stayed through the finish. (88 points)

2006 Carpineto Chianti Classico Riserva – The 2006 Chianti Classico Riserva kept the same rustic feel on the nose as the normale but with more delineated fruit. On the palate, I found dark red fruits and cedar, leading into an enjoyably fresh finish. (90 points)

2004 Castello di Ama Chianti Classico – The 2004 Castello di Ama Chianti Classico, was easily one of the highlights of the tasting. The nose showed forest notes with earth, undergrowth, mint and cherries. On the palate, I found a beautiful balance of concentration and acidity as lush red fruit and wood was kept in check by the wine’s fine structure. (92 points)

2006 Castello di Ama Chianti Classico – The nose showed dark red fruits, savory beef notes and animal musk. On the palate, I found red fruit against a balanced frame but little else before the wine’s tannin numbed my palate. With age, this wine may blossom but on this day it was dwarfed by the structured 2004 and the rich 2007. (89 points)

2007 Castello di Ama Chianti Classico – On the nose, I found vibrant black cherry with spice and woodsy notes. The palate was full and bursting with flavors of mint and rich raspberry. The finish was medium-long with sweet red fruits lingering on the palate. (91 points)

2007 Fontodi Chianti Classico – The 2007 Fontodi Chianti Classico showed woodland aromatics with undergrowth and hint of evergreen ushering in its red fruits. On the palate, it showed its grace through light, yet well-focused red fruit with hints of tobacco and a bit of drying tannin going into the medium finish. Ultimately, this wine may need to be accompanied by food to reach its apogee. (89 points)

2007 Fontodi Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo – To drink this, and then have the 1999 later in the day, was an interesting peak into what was truly buried beneath the youthful structure of this wine. The 2007 showed red fruits with spice and vanilla on the nose. The palate was structured, showing mulling spice with leather and sour red berries. I believe it’s enjoyable now with a good decant, but it will be truly amazing if left to age in your cellar. (92 points)

2008 Ruffino Chianti Classico Tenuta Santedame – This wine showed perfumed, sour red berries on the nose, followed by forest notes. The palate was light yet juicy with red fruits, but a little dry into the finish. I was impressed by this unassuming Chianti and wouldn’t mind it with a plate of pasta and red sauce. (89 points)

2007 Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Tradizionale – The nose showed red fruits, clay and earth with hints of manure. It was a bit gruff on the palate and drying, which I’ve come to expect from this bottling. The finish was long with spiced red fruits. (88 points)

2006 Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Oro – On the nose, I found dark red fruits with hints of chalk dust. On the palate, it showed an ethereal elegance that I found lacking in the 2004. Hopefully this may be a sign of the producer moving away from the dark brooding character that this wine seemed to epitomize over the last few vintages. The palate showed vibrant black cherry with tobacco, minerals. The finish was long yet slightly tannic. This bottle may find its way into my cellar. (91 points)

2008 Agricola San Felice Chianti Classico – The nose showed crushed red berries, soil and green stems. On the palate, I found sweet, round fruit with a nice balance of acidity. (88 points)

2007 Agricola San Felice Chianti Classico Riserva “Il Grigio” – The nose showed animal musk and dusty black cherry. On the palate, I found vibrant strawberry fruit, spice and earthy minerals. This wine is well structured and has great balance. It was a pleasure to drink. (91 points)

2006 Agricola San Felice Chianti Classico Riserva Poggio Rosso – The nose showed candied cranberry fruit with spice and mint. On the palate, I found red and black fruits with hints of wood on a velvety full body. The finish is long and staying but a bit sweeter than I usually prefer. However, there’s no denying the quality in the glass. (91 points)

2008 Tenuta Lilliano Chianti Classico – The nose showed cherry and earth with notes of forest floor. On the palate, I found round red fruits with hints of violet candies. The finish was long and showed cinnamon and spice. (89 points)

2007 Tenuta Lilliano Chianti Classico Riserva – The nose showed red fruit and pecorino. On the palate, I found silky raspberry fruit and licorice. The finish was pleasant and juicy. (89 points)