2001 Piedmont Retrospective

Barbaresco, Barolo and Castiglione Falletto
A classic vintage (part 1)

Wine of the Night

In the world of wine writing, there's always going to be somebody who's touting the next perfect vintage.  However, what's unfortunate is that this praise is usually created to sell wine.  What's more, the wines that are loved by the majority of today's critics, don't necessarily share anything in common with classic wines of the past, other than the name.  How do we know that a 2007 Barolo will age into something similar to the great vintages of the past?  We simply don’t.   What we do know, is that the Nebbiolo grape possess the remarkable ability to age, and that even in “off” vintages or ripe vintages, the best producers can create good wine, that should age well. 

My top three picks

2001 was not an “off” or ripe vintage.  In fact, it was quite the opposite.  To me, 2001 is a true classic vintage, which provided intense, structured wines with balanced acidity and the capacity to age for decades.  Often grouped with great vintages like ’89 and ’96, most wines tasted from ‘01 show a level of refinement and balance, that you can actually sense the quality in the glass, even as your mouth is wrapped in tannin.  In general, the aromatics are layered and truly stunning and the core of intense, pure fruit promises that these wines will last the test of time.  With that said, we have now reached the 10 year mark for 2001, and they are right where you’d expect them to be in their evolution—young and full of potential. 

The best part is it’s not too late to find many of these wines, as long as you take care to source them from reputable retailers.

Fight 1

Flight one consisted of two of the biggest names and three of the most esteemed vineyards in Barbaresco.  This flight truly showed the benefits of tasting double blind, as we worked through the wines and formed our conclusions.  A point of note is that the consensus of the group placed the Produttori Asili against the Giacosa Asili in a tie for third place wine-of-the-night (important to consider since the Produttori can be had for half the price).  I also found the Giacosa Santo Stefano to be far more interesting than the majority at the table.  The Asili came across as a little too earthy and with aromas that I don’t associate with great Barbaresco, however the Santo Stefano was simply classic to my palate. 

Lastly, I was saddened by the performance of the Produttori Rabajà, since the last time I tasted it, I felt there was much more potential in the glass.  In the end, the Giacosa Rabajà Riserva was my wine of the flight, as well as my wine of the night (and yes, this was all tasted double blind); it’s simply a great bottle of Barbaresco.

2001 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Asili – The nose showed dusty cherry and strawberry with notes of orange, rich mulling spices and the slightest whiff of old library books.  On the palate, it showed silky black cherry fruit and minerals with vibrant acidity providing an airy lift.  On the finish, notes of tart red fruit and mushrooms lingered through this wines tight, drying structure.  (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2001 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà – The nose was elegant and showed dark strawberry, floral stems and herbs with notes of tar, crack black pepper and moist earth.  On the palate, it first showed soft, sweet red fruit and an earthy funk with tongue curling acidity, yet as it traveled across the palate, it seemed diluted and somehow hollow.  The finish showed this wines structure with lingering notes of red fruit and earth. (91 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2001 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano – The nose showed rich sweet raspberry and herbs but with time in the glass it turned to tart cherry, orange peel and the slightest hint of shoe polish.  On the palate, it showed a solid core of cherry fruit, which was zesty with acidity, yet full in body.  An impression of balance and focus struck me as I sipped this wine, which should mature into something magical.  The finish was clean with dried cherry and fine tannins. (94 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2001 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili – The nose showed earthy funk, black cherry, breadcrumbs, and hints of green vegetables.  On the palate, I found black cherry fruit, floral notes and minerals in a soft and juicy style.  The finish showed cranberry but was short and drying. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2001 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà – The nose showed deep, ripe strawberry fruit, crushed leaves, potpourri and sweet spices, yet bright and clean.  On the palate, it showed elegant, ripe red fruits with beautiful structure and balance.  The finish was long and structured.  This wine showed so much balanced mix with intensity that it’s easy to imagine great things in its future. (97 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Flight 2

Flight two was painful.  It was designed as a flight of wines that all came from the commune of Barolo.  However, we weren’t aware of this information while tasting.  The consensus of the Giuseppe Rinaldi was that it was a modern styled Barolo and one taster even felt that it was cooked.  The intense aroma of acetone (or nail polish remover) made me think of VA.  I decided to withhold a score until I can taste this wine again.  Following that was a corked wine (which turned out to be Bartolo Mascarello).  Then the last two wines, which were very similar on the nose and even convinced me that they might have been from the same producer.  Again, from the performance on the nose, these wines came off as modern in style.  In the end, it was Giacomo Borgogno Barolo Storico Liste that was my favorite wine of the flight.

2001 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate Le Coste – The nose showed a whiff of initial heat, followed by rich cherry lollipop and notes of acetone.  On the palate, it was almost port-like, without the sweetness with notes of black cherry fruit.  The finish was rough with tannin and almost sticky.  One taster thought this was cooked, however, I felt it suffered from VA.  Either way I’ve reserved scoring the wine, as it may have been faulty. (N/A) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2001 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo – Corked (N/A)

2001 E. Pira and Figli (Chiara Boschis) Barolo Cannubi – The nose showed sweet red and black fruits with floral, menthol notes and a hint of black truffles.  On the palate, it was big, rich and palate staining on entry, yet a wave of acidity on the mid-palate gave the impression of focused, airy red fruits.  The finish was woody with drying tannin. (89 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2001 Giacomo Borgogno and Figli Barolo Storico Liste – The nose showed tart cherry, medicinal herbs, menthol and tobacco leaf.  On the palate, it showed sweet, soft strawberry fruit with a balance of structure and acidity that kept it focused and fresh.  The long finish was laden with spicy red fruit. (91 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Flight 3

Flight three was a perfect way to end the evening.  For one thing, it turned up the 2^nd place wine-of-the-night with the Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe.  But what’s more, the entire Cavallotto lineup was a pleasure to drink (I had my issues with the Riserva Vignolo, but no one else seemed to mind it so much).  What was a let down was the performance from the Monprivato.  Call it backward or say that they never perform well in their youth.  I think we’ve all heard the excuses made for this wine when young and I will be very happy if my bottles mature into something wonderful.  However, at the moment, it comes across as out-of-balance and shows vegetal notes that I don’t find attractive.   The Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe was my wine of the flight and the Cavallotto Bricco Boschis was no slouch either.  These are great wines, especially for the money.

2001 Cavallotto Barolo Bricco Boschis – The nose on the Cavallotto Bricco Boschis showed bright cherry, sweet spices, roses and hard candy.  As it sat in the glass an aroma of espagnole joined the bouquet and added masses of complexity.  On the palate, it was juicy and rich yet balanced, showing sweet red fruit mixed with baking spices.  The finish was long and concentrated, showing dark chocolate and black cherry. (92 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2001 Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Vignolo – The nose showed ripe red fruits with minerals, a hint of rust and a sweaty note that detracted greatly from the experience.  On the palate, I found silky sweet cherry, and a dusting of dark chocolate, which turned lean on the mid-palate and stayed through the finish with dried red fruits and rough tannin.  (89 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2001 Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe – The nose showed deep, rich red fruits, poppy and menthol with a zesty, almost tropical note of tangerine.   On the palate, it was velvety and rich with sweet, spiced red fruits.  The finish was intense, structured and long. (95 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2001 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato – The nose showed dark, almost dank strawberry fruit with minerals and a vegetal note.  On the palate, it came across as round but missing focus with soft red fruits with a vegetal note.  The finish showed dried out fruits and burnt sugar. (88 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

The 2001 lineup.  Served double blind.

Other recent tastings of 2001 Baroli:

2001 Parusso Barolo Bussia – The nose on the ’01 Parusso Bussia was gorgeous, showing ripe cherry, cola, tobacco, potpourri and cedar spice box. On the palate it was rich yet firm, with black raspberry and hints of wood spice. The finish was remarkably long, showing refined structure and a lingering note of pure cherry. (95 points)

2001 Elio Altare Barolo Vigneto Arborina - The Altare Arborina showed a classic Barolo nose of red fruits, plum skins, roses, tar, a hint of animal musk and undergrowth. The nose pulled me in and reminded me somehow of a childhood Autumn day with dried leaves and pine nestles. On the palate, it showed an elegant, full body, backed by a balance of tannin and acid. The fruit was rich but not over-ripe, with sweet spice and an airy, refreshing note of menthol. The finish was long with red fruits, tobacco and a hint of brown sugar. (95 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2001 Elio Grasso Barolo Rüncot - This wine was painfully young, but there was such potential in the glass, and after time in decanter, a glimpse of what it may become shined through. At first, the nose was full on oaky vanilla and even a hint of nail polish, but this faded over the course of three hours, and what remained was dark red fruit, a dusting of brown sugar, and menthol. On the palate, I found an elegant and more feminine structure than expected with lush cherry fruit, herbs and cinnamon. The long finish showed fine silky tannin that left my palate dry but not fatigued. I’m very excited to think what this may be in another ten years. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Vintage Sangiovese at "The Sommelier's Cellar"

In wrapping up my coverage of The Italian Wine Master’s, today I bring you my notes from “The Sommeliers’ Cellar”, a portion of the tasting that was created to showcase older vintages of the wines that were on display at the show. Some people may ask, why is this important? The reason, even though many people drink wines early after release these days, is that many of these bottles need age in order to show what they’re capable of. Brunello especially, is extremely hard to gauge in its youth.

Ready to drink
2007 San Felice Il Grigio

This is not say that all Sangiovese should be placed in a wine cellar and left for over a decade, in fact, the majority of Chianti Classico, sampled at this event, was perfectly ready to drink. However, some of the best producer’s bottles simply need time before they blossom, the Fontodi Vigna del Sorbo comes to mind. In tasting these wines and in reading these notes, you can gauge what the new release bottles may one day taste like. For instance, one thing I learned, is that the wines of Tenuta Oliveto and Col C’Orcia are worth more of my attention and should be in my cellar.

Montalcino

Lastly, what I took from this tasting is how the development of certain vintages is coming along. 1999 is truly showing that it was worth the accolades bestowed upon it in Brunello di Montalcino. The wines are stunning and just entering their drink window, with pure ripe fruits and velvety textures. 1997 continues to be a super-model vintage with all the sex appeal included. Lastly, 2001 still needs time, but continues to age gracefully, and should one day, be truly glorious.

On to the Notes:

1995 Barbi Brunello di Montalcino – Aromas of brown and burnt sugar on the nose gave way to dried red berries. On the palate, this wine was full and beautifully resolved with lush sour cherry fruit made juicy by vibrant acidity. The finish was long and reminiscent of cherries and old spice. (92 points)

1999 Campogiovanni Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose showed earth and minerals followed by raspberry and berry scented wax. On the palate, I found a soft expression of sweet strawberry fruit and old wood, which led to a short and drying finish. Unfortunately it seems that the structure of this wine will outlive its fruit. (91 points)

Find this wine on: Wine-Searcher

1980 Col C’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose showed faded strawberry, herbal tea leaves and minerals. The palate came across as savory and juicy with cherry, plum and mineral salinity. This wine may be on its down slope but it was highly enjoyable and will probably continue to drink well for many years to come. (94 points)

1997 Antinori Pian Delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed, saddle leather, cedar, strawberry and brown sugar. On the palate, this wine is full and well structured with sweet dark fruits, holiday spices and hints of herbs. It was highly enjoyable through the long fresh finish. (92 points)

Find this wine on: Wine-Searcher

1999 Tenuta di Collosorbo Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed brown sugar and herbal green stems. The palate came across and soft and velvety yet with an underlying structure and balance. Black raspberry and mulling spices fill out the palate and faded into a long gentle finish. (90 points)

Find this wine on: Wine-Searcher

1998 Tenuta Oliveto Brunello di Montalcino – The Oliveto stood out amongst its peers with a nose of blackberry, herbs and green olive. In the mouth, this showed amazing focus of fruit against a fine acidic backbone as sour red currant coated the palate; followed by minerals and slight salinity. The finish was long, as this wine’s tongue coating fruit slowly faded away to freshness. (94 points)

2000 Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino – The nose was elegantly perfumed with floral aromatics, herbs and spice. On the palate, I found sour cherry but with little else to offer. The finish was reminiscent of the palate but very drying. This wine may just need time but at the moment its score is more representative of what’s offered on the nose as opposed to the palate. (88 points)

Find this wine on: Wine-Searcher

1997 Camigliano Brunello di Montalcino – The nose was floral with potpourri and dark brooding fruits. On the palate, I found sweet red berries and spicy wood tones. The finish was fresh. (89 points)

Find this wine on: Wine-Searcher

1997 Ormanni Chiant Classico Riserva – The nose of this wine reminded me of autumn, with old wood, florist shop and strawberry. On the palate, I found sweet, round red fruits, herbal tea and spices with a slight copper penny note on the finish. (90 points)

Find this wine on: Wine-Searcher

1999 Fontodi Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo – The nose showed strawberry, rosemary, tanning leather and hints of manure. On the palate, I found a lush, full, structured expression of ripe, dark red fruits with mulling spice. The finish was long, as the ripe fruit slowly tapered off. (95 points)

Find this wine on: Wine-Searcher

1990 Castello di Ama Chianti Classico – The nose showed vibrant red fruits, florist shop, leather and potpourri. On the palate, I found dried strawberry and spice. This wine somehow came across as young and full of life. It was a pleasure to taste and should continue to develop for many years to come. (94 points)

Find this wine on: Wine-Searcher

The Sommelier's Cellar also include some great Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. My notes can be found HERE!

“The Italian Wine Masters,” Part 3 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

The Italian Wine Masters is a combined effort between The Consorzi Brunello di Montalcino, Chianti Classico, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore. It’s a trade show of sorts, where industry professionals and press are invited to meet the owners and representatives of over 100 wineries from Tuscany and the Veneto, Valdobbiadene wine growing region.

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

When studying the wines of a country as large and diverse as Italy, you sometimes find yourself prioritizing or turning a blind eye to a specific region or wine from that country. When you consider the amount of wine that comes out of Italy, the number of varietals grown (over 350), and how many variations you can find on each wine from the 20 different wine-growing regions, you start to understand my plight. I am ashamed to say that Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is one of the wines that I choose to overlook. I had tried it once and it simply didn’t impress me… now, I must say, I was a fool.

I believe my first mistake was in expecting something from the wine that would remind me more of Brunello or Chianti. My second mistake was drinking a young wine. And my last mistake was never giving it a second chance… until now.

What impressed me the most about the Vino Nobile at The Italian Wine Masters were the bottles that I sampled in the Sommeliers cellar (which is why I choose to include those notes here). These wines, after ten years of age, were beautifully structured with vibrant fruit flavors and aromas that you don’t find in most Sangiovese wines from Tuscany. Vino Nobile must be made from at least 70% Sangiovese and aged for two years prior to release. The region is located Southeast of Chianti Classico and East of Montalcino. What this all amounts to is a unique expression of what Sangiovese is capable of, in a region that truly deserves more attention.

I would highly recommend searching out the wines of any of these producers. If you must drink them young, I recommend decanting them. If you have the ability to place them in your cellar, you’ll be in store for a treat in years to come.

On to the notes:

2007 Ruffino Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Lodola Nuova – This wine showed a bit of yeast on the nose, like red fruits wrapped in baking breads. On the palate, I found it to be toasty with spiced red fruits and leather. (88 points)

2004 Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva – The nose showed animal musk, and candied strawberry. On the palate, this wine showed focused red fruit with polished acidity and structure. It was highly enjoyable yet still tannic and could easily benefit from a few years of cellaring. (90 points)

2007 Crociani Vino Nobile di Montepulciano – The nose showed masses of raspberry, cedar, herbs and a bit of older wood. The palate was structured, but not austere, and savory with rich black cherry. The finish coated the palate with fine tannin. This wine would benefit from a few years in the cellar. (91 points)

2008 Crociani Vino Nobile di Montepulciano – The nose was slightly restrained yet still showing floral notes and ripe strawberry. On the palate, I found plum and holiday spice. The finish was firm with drying tannin. This wine may really shine with a proper decanting. (89 points)

2006 Crociani Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva – The nose showed red fruits, violets and a hint of toast. On the palate, I found a rich, full-bodied wine, with brambly red fruit and cedar. The finish was smooth and long. (91 points)

1999 Crociani Vino Nobile di Montepulciano – The nose showed dried red fruits with undergrowth, hints of green stems and pepper. On the palate, the fruits turned round and sweet as this wine strutted a fine mature structure with flavors of lush wild berries and spice. The finish was fresh and juicy. (90 points)

2001 La Ciarliana Vino Nobile di Montepulciano “Vigna Scianello” – Red berries and a hint of citrus filled out the nose of this wine, as flavors of blackberry, cinnamon and salinity assaulted the palate. It showed great structure and balance leading into a long berry fruit finish. (91 points)

1999 Salcheto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano – The nose showed green stems with sour red fruit and a floral quality. On the palate, this wine was smooth with black raspberry, mineral copper and hints of salinity. (87 points)

2001 Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano “Il Nocio” – The nose showed plum and spicy dark fruit. On the palate, I found raspberry but not much else, as this wine faded into a pleasant fruity finish. Although, this wine wasn’t relavatory, I still found it to be enjoyable and likely a great wine for an evening meal. (89 points)

2001 Dei Vino Nobile Montepulciano Riserva “Bossona” – This showed a gorgeous floral nose of violets with crushed wild berries. On the palate, I found rich red fruit on a full structured frame with herbal tea notes and spice. This wine was mouth-filling and it slowly tapered off into a finish of red fruits and dark chocolate. (92 points)