1989: Barolo Retrospective

By Eric Guido

The "Epic" '89 Cascina Francia
With no Monfortino in '89,
this wine turned out to be a
masterpiece.

2004 was the year that I really got into wine, and from that moment forward it has been a continuous learning experience on a topic that is constantly evolving. In that time, there are specific “truths” that I’ve come understand. One is that price doesn’t always dictate quality. Another is that there will always be another “greatest vintage ever,” according to somebody, only a few years down the road. And then there’s 1989 Barolo; and the truth is that it’s the best, classic vintage of Barolo in the last 35 years.

Let’s call a spade a spade. I understand that farming practices have improved, that wineries work cleaner and more efficient, and that global warming has given producers more good vintages to work with. But here's another truth; because of all of these changes and improvements, the Barolo being made today will never become the wines of yesterday. Granted, they might become something totally different, which in retrospect may be considered better. But we won't see another 1974, '78 or '89. The fact is that all the technology today is simply trying to recreate what a great vintage provided us in years like 1989.

We're talking about a time when there were great vintages once a decade, and it was the result of what Mother Nature gave them. Green harvesting wasn't regularly practiced in 1989; instead a wet, cool spring resulted in irregular flowering. What's more, severe hail in June left its mark on many vineyards. The summer was warm, but not hot, and temperatures dropped near the end of the growing season with wide fluctuations between day and night. The result was a late harvest with perfectly ripe grapes.

Setting up our blind tasting at i Truli.  An amazing tasting
complimented by a Piedmonte inspired menu.

When I think back to the first time I tasted an '89 Barolo, even at an early point in my journey to understand wine, the quality struck me. All of the other vintages I had tasted, '95 through 2000, seemed to pale in comparison. They were rich in fruit and powerful, yet bright and focused with a structure that I can best describe as "noble". They weren't ready to drink yet, which at the time (2006) intrigued me greatly. However, even though the structure of these wines dominated, you could still sense the tension of fruit that was just waiting to bloom. So here we are, eight years later, and these wines are even closer to peaking, but not quite there yet. Enjoyable? Absolutely. Yet, you can still sense that there's something more waiting down the road, and I won't be surprised if we are still enjoying the best of them 40 years from now. God, I love '89 Barolo.

These 25-year old corks look fantastic, unfortunately
a few them work cork-taint time bombs.

The following notes are from a recent tasting, which included 14 bottles of Barolo and 2 of Barbaresco. One issue I witnessed was a problem with cork taint (3 out of 16 bottles), which is another issue on the decline these days. Also, out of all of these wines, one was obviously heat damaged, a concern when trying to procure these wines on the market today. My advice, if you have the means, is to buy '89 Barolo, because the prices will only go up as the wines continue to peak. However, if you are a buyer, make sure you are getting them from a reliable source. Many of these wines will cost a pretty penny (my Wine of The Night is retailing at $595), but that doesn't mean you can't find deals if you look hard enough. '89 Produttori Ovello is a perfect example.

On to the notes:

Flight #1 was something of a let-down, yet in no way the fault of the vintage. The unfortunate reality of older wine is the possibility of it being damaged from mistreatment or issues with cork. Thankfully corks have improved drastically in the last decade. However, there was a silver lining in the form of a Produttori Barbaresco that showed beautifully. What would a Barolo tasting be without a Barbaresco inserted as a ringer, which pans out to be a winner?

1989 Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Ovello – What a pretty and feminine wine that may not have shown as well next to a larger-scaled Barolo or Barbaresco, yet on it’s own was magical. The nose was still youthful, showing dusty red fruits with minerals and rose petals. On the palate, it showed silky textures interlaced with veins of structure and acidity. Bright cherry was joined by notes of earth and inner floral tones, which lasted into a long, staying finish. The Ovello was elegant and finessed, showing the undeniable qualities of Produttori yet again. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

1989 Roagna Barbaresco Riserva – Sadly, the ’89 Roagna Barbaresco Riserva was slightly corked, and what a shame that was, because what I did find in the glass tempted my curiosity. Dried red fruits pushed forward on the nose with notes of soil, gravel and old parchment. On the palate, it was tart with red berry and herbal notes, yet turned muddled. Dried red berries lingered on the finish with a zing of acidity. (N/A) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

1989 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo – The nose was dark, showing roasted meat, mushroom, moist leaves and beef stock. On the palate, it was still youthful yet meaty, with red fruits and earth tones. The finish was long, yet the wines acidity seemed to dry out the wine, leaving only traces of citrus peel and minerals. (87 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

1989 Cavallotto Barolo Vigna San Giuseppe Riserva – You could sense the greatness in this wine, yet it was apparently mistreated at some point in its life. The nose was earth personified with porcini mushroom, soil, mineral, herbal tones and a hint of French onion soup. On the palate, it showed tart red fruits and citrus peel. The finish was dank and muddled with notes of earth and stewed fruit. (N/A) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Flight #2 really took things up a notch and relieved any fears that flight #1 may have stirred. Monforte d’Alba was the theme of the flight, and these wines came through in spades. What really impressed me was how impossibly young they all seemed.

1989 Aldo Conterno Barolo Cicala – The nose was classic, showing dusty red fruits, dried flowers, sandy soil, minerals and beef broth. It showed great depth on the palate, with tart red berries saturating the senses in waves of velvety texture, followed by notes of herbal tea and minerals. The finish was staying and seemed to wrap the palate in warm, radiant fruit. Other tasters seemed to prefer the Colonnello, but for me it was the Cicala that showed best. (94 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

1989 Elio Grasso Barolo Gavarini – The nose was earthy and complex with dark red fruit, mushrooms, dried flowers, hints of citrus rind and dusty, dried cranberries. On the palate, it was still young and structured with tart red fruit, inner floral tones and hints of citrus. The medium-long finish lent a sweet and sour effect as red berry and citrus intermingled. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

1989 Aldo Conterno Barolo Colonnello – The nose was wonderfully expressive with dark red fruits, dried flowers, spices and beef stock. On the palate, it was smaller-scaled, yet silky smooth and juicy with round red fruits and herbal tones. The finish turned darker and lingered. Other tasters found this to be much more interesting than I did. It’s a beautiful wine that’s drinking well now, but it was lack of depth on the palate that soured my view. (92 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

1989 Rocche dei Manzoni Barolo Riserva – The nose was modern and forward, showing ripe black cherry with balsamic tones, spice, licorice and a whiff of vanilla oak. On the palate, it was surprisingly clean, focused and finessed with cherry, sweet spice, dark chocolate and earth tones. The finish was soft and juicy with dried red berry notes lingering long. (88 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Flight #3 was marked by the biggest disappointment of the evening, a completely corked Brovia Rocche and Bruno Giacosa Villero. Luckily, the two wines that did show were incredible! So began the battle of the two ’89 Vietti…

1989 Brovia Barolo Rocche – Corked

1989 Vietti Barolo Rocche – The ’89 Vietti Rocche was stunning. The nose was forward, yet elegant and finessed, showing beautiful floral tones, cherry, potpourri, roses, balsamic hints and spice. On the palate, it was still youthful and structured; yet even still, the most focused red fruit ran deep, enveloping the senses and contrasted by inner floral notes. The finishes lingered on and on with hints of structure tugging at the senses while crystalline red fruit slowly faded away. This wine was seamless. (96 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

1989 Vietti Barolo Villero Riserva – The nose was bright and explosive with sweet red fruits, spice, rose petal, potpourri and hints of menthol. On the palate, it was round with velvety red fruits, yet persistent and focused, as sweet spice and hints of citrus danced across the senses. It finished focused and clean with dried red berries and hints of spice, which lingered on and on. It was gorgeous. (95 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

1989 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Villero – Corked

Just when we thought things couldn’t get any better, along came Flight #4. Out of the 16 bottles we originally assembled, what wasn’t revealed to the tasters was that a 1989 Giacomo Conterno Cascina Frania had been entered into the tasting. It was great listening to the chatter around the table as everyone put their nose to the glass.

1989 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia – The nose was deep, rooted in the earth with iron and minerals, yet dark and imposing as rich black cherry, licorice and dried roses gave contrast to rock dust and black soil tones. You could sense that as much as this wine was willing to give, there was still so much more being held in reserve. On the palate, balsamic notes gave way to dark fruit and inner floral perfumes, yet the wine’s muscle and girth seemed to be working hard (yet in a futile manner) to try and keep it all concealed. The finish was filled with strawberry, tar and tobacco notes in a long, youthful expression. This is a wine that anyone who considers themselves a fan of Barolo must taste at one point in their lives. (97 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

1989 Cascina Bruni Barolo Vigna Batistot – The nose was beautiful and quite unique, with spicy, candied tones leading to Bing cherry, celery seed and candle wax. On the palate, it showed velvety textures with dark red fruit and a hint of bitters. The finish was staying with red berry and licorice lingering on the palate. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

1989 Prunotto Barolo Cannubi – The nose was dark, and at first reticent; yet as it opened in the glass, a bouquet of red berry, floral perfumes, herbs, minerals and a hint of spice came forward. On the palate, focused red fruits gave way to earth, minerals and stone with a still lively structure. The finish was clean and refreshing with a note of dried cherries. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

1989 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate Riserva – The nose showed red fruit, which was a bit stewy, with mushroom, herbs, tar and parchment. On the palate, dried red berries, spice and fall leaves coated the senses, yet the sense that this wine was holding back edged on my thoughts. The finish showed notes of red fruit and old cedar with a drying structure, which cut it short. (92 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!


Related Links: 
Words from fellow wine writers and bloggers who attended this tasting. The following links are a great way to get an in-depth understanding of these wines and the vintages.
Greg dal Piaz of Snooth: PIEDMONT’S GREATEST VINTAGE?
Ken Vastola of "The Fine Wine Geek": 1989 Barolo and Barbaresco

2000 Barolo & Barbaresco Revisited

By: Eric Guido

So we all love to talk about how wrong the critics were with the 2000 vintage of Barolo and Barbaresco. Such a highly touted vintage that drank so well on release, yet that seemed to be all that it was. Now, with 13 years of age on these bottles, we take a glimpse into what they have matured into, and although I wouldn’t recommend aging these in your cellar, most of them are drinking beautifully.

However, to add insult to injury, we decided to add another twist to this tasting by stacking the deck with a number of "modern-style" Baroli. Modern-styled (or Internationally-styled) Barolo has become something of a bad word in Piedmont, with scores of producers now moving away from small French barrels and adding their own large Slovenian casks to their cellars for aging. There was a time when extremely low yields, roto-fermentors and small oak barrels were the mark of a modern producer. Cellars turned from dank caves into marvels of modern technology. The idea was to make a Barolo that was more approachable, younger-drinking and more acceptable to the international palate. The fact is that over the years the terms modern and traditional have become quite blurred. As even the traditionalists realized that there was nothing wrong with clean wine-making and lower yields, some even opting for roto-fermentation, yet sticking to aging in large barrel.

However, back during the 2000 vintage, modern-styled winemaking was still in its heyday. My fear was that the combination of the ripe vintage, higher concentrations and the use of new oak, would result in muddled, over-ripe, over-extracted and completely undrinkable wines; and for the most part, I was wrong. What this proves, for one thing, is that winemaking has more to do with the producer than the vintage. And another important point is that the quality of the fruit can outlast and outshine some of the most aggressive winemaking.

In the end, I wouldn't be buying these wines to put away in the cellar today. Most of them are drinking great now, and the few that need more time only need a few more years to come together. These can provide a lot of enjoyment at this time, and if you see some of the top bottles for a good price, buy them. You won't be disappointed.

On to the Wines:

2000 Michele Chiarlo Barbaresco Asili – The nose was classic and slightly rustic with aromas of cherry, forest floor, earth tones and hints of green stems. On the palate, it was amazingly soft and feminine with red fruits, inner floral notes, and a mineral core. The finish showed drying tannin and red fruits, begging for a few more years in the cellar. (89 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2000 Elio Altare Barolo La Morra – The nose showed lush red fruits, red licorice, dried flowers, intense spice and herbs. On the palate it was soft and enveloping, coating the senses in concentrated red fruits with brisk acidity to keep it fresh, showing ripe cherry and earthy soil tones. It dried out slightly on the finish with notes of dark chocolate and tart cherry. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2000 Paolo Scavino Barolo Riserva Rocche dell'Annunziata – The nose was dark, and brooding with black cherry, cinnamon, spiced oak, saw dust, moist undergrowth and herbs. On the palate, it showed a smooth sheen of oak with tart red fruits, dark chocolate, cedar and wood tannin, which dried the palate. On the palate, a wave of refreshing acidity made the mouth water, leaving only a gentle tug of tannins at the cheek. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2000 Vietti Barolo Lazzarito – The nose was classic with dusty cherry, tobacco, minty herbs, minerals and savory, seared meat. On the palate, it was juicy throughout with notes of strawberry, herbs, a smooth hint of oak and a truly Burgundian feel. The finish turned tart, yet stayed juicy with lingering red fruits and cedar. (92 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2000 Andrea Oberto Barolo Vigneto Rocche – The nose was expressive, rich, yet classic with roses, tart cherry, animal musk, tobacco and hints of spice. On the palate, it was unbelievably silky, yet turned grippy, with red fruits, cedar and a core of minerals driven by fresh acidity. The finish showed its youthful side with hints of drying tannin, saturating red fruits and tobacco clinging to the senses. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2000 Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Vignolo – The nose was intense yet brooding with a mix of red fruit, perfumed floral notes, soil and undergrowth; it was like smelling a bouquet of fresh cut roses, stems and all. On the palate, it was rich yet juicy with black cherry fruit, inner floral tones and herbs. The finish lingered on and on with dark, saturating red fruits. (94 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2000 Elio Grasso Barolo Riserva Rüncot – The nose was beautifully expressive, revealing layer upon layer of its enticing bouquet as it sat in the glass. Notes of black cherry, brown sugar and sweet spice gave way to a dark yet explosive array of mint, ripe strawberry, and sweet, spicy floral tones. On the palate, it was focused, balanced and still youthful, showing sweet ‘n sour cherry, herbs and minerals, which filled the senses. The finish was slightly tart, showing balanced structure and hints of tannin. I can see this wine getting even better with a few years’ time. Beautiful. (95 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

For a deeper look at the 2000 vintage Baroli, check out "2000: Barolo Retrospective" from October 2010.

Barbera: Not Just A Pretty Name

My first food and wine-pairing epiphany was with a bottle of Barbera d’Alba and a plate of penne dressed with a simple tomato sauce. Before that moment, I didn’t put much thought into food with wine. Yet after that moment, my fate was sealed. It was not just how the Barbera lent the sauce a mix of dark woodsy and berry fruit flavors in the aftertaste. What really did it for me was how the Barbera reinforced the tomato flavors and made them taste more “tomato-y.” Add to that a dollop of brisk acidity, which is a textbook calling card of Barbera, and you have an amazing food-pairing wine.

Barbera is a light to medium-bodied red, generally with a low level of tannin yet with acidity to spare. On the nose and palate you can find a mix of bright red berry flavors, spice, floral and woodsy notes. In the right hands, they can be downright sexy. This consummate Italian varietal has also been seeing a good amount of success in California, yet to this taster’s palate, they can often be too ripe, bordering on jammy. Yet if there’s one place outside of Italy where it makes sense for Barbera to succeed, it is in California.

Barbera has also had its challenges. For one thing, it’s a vigorous varietal that tempts some of the less quality-minded producers to opt for quantity over quality wine. Another drawback can be the use of oak, which when applied with a deft hand results in a gorgeous and well balanced wine but when over-used comes across as way to much makeup on a natural beauty. The good news is that most Barbera (juicy, ripe and vibrant) can be found at great prices.

One of my favorite styles of Barbera comes from Alba, with their darker, softer personalities, but there is one drawback. In Alba, Nebbiolo is king (the single grape responsible for making Barolo), and since most of the perfectly exposed parcels are given to Nebbiolo, it leaves Barbera with the less favorable spots. However, there are many producers that put much more emphasis on Barbera, both where it is grown and the attention it sees in the vineyard. Suffice to say, these are wines that are worth seeking out.

In Asti, Barbera takes the spotlight, which also means the best vineyard locations. These are mineral and acid-driven wines, which demand a plate of rich mountain food. I love them for what they are and often crave them with a slice of white pizza, polenta with Parmigiano-Reggiano or just about anything with mushrooms on top.

Then there’s Monferrato, which is considered by many to be the birthplace of Barbera. Producers here have been making good Barbera for quite some time but they are only starting to see good representation in the States. In my recent tasting, I found these wines to be the most exciting with a mix between the richer Alba style and the mineral Asti style, plus an air of Alpine hills. They are fascinating wines that require the attention of anyone looking to better understand Northern Italian reds.

Below, you’ll find my notes on over 20 current release Barberas. Some are from the top names in Piedmont, and some aren’t even from Italy. I think you’ll find the list to be quite useful and I’m pleased to say that many of my favorite bottles, like the Guidobono, can be found for well under $20. Enjoy.

On to the notes:

2009 Elio Grasso Barbera d'Alba Vigna Martina – The nose was modern and ripe but not overdone with notes of toasty oak, plum sauce, spicy black cherry and crushed stone. On the palate, it was smooth as silk and rich with balanced acidity keeping it juicy throughout. Flavors of savory black cherry and saline minerals gave way to dry wood tannins. The long finish was saturating with dark cherry fruit. It’s very good now, but I would give this a few more years in the cellar for the tannin to mellow. (92 points)

2010 Guidobono Barbera d'Alba – The nose showed a mix of ripe crushed berries with cinnamon and spice, floral notes and hints of herbs. On the palate, it had a medium body and filled the senses with silky black and red fruits yet remained juicy and focused throughout. The finish showed tart cherry, which lingered on the palate complemented by a hint of tannin. (92 points)

2009 Vietti Barbera d'Alba Tre Vigne – The nose showed ripe red berries and slight confectionary notes with spice and sawdust. On the palate, it was dark and spicy with a dollop of fresh acidity and soft textures yielding red and black fruits. The finish was dry, showing medicinal cherry and dark chocolate. It was easy to drink and refreshing. (91 points)

2010 La Casaccia Barbera Giuanin Barbera del Monferrato – The nose showed alpine notes of tart red berries, herbs, wild flowers and hints of pepper. On the palate, it was smooth yet intense with focused raspberry fruit and gripping tannin which fleshed out nicely toward the back palate. The finish was medium-long with lingering acidity and tart red berries. (90 points)

2009 Marchesi di Barolo Barbera d'Alba Ruvei – The very attractive nose showed spiced berries, herbs and leather. On the palate, it was intense yet silky, with tart berries and spice, softening acidity, and excellent balance. The finish was lingering with dark fruits, not long but very smooth. (90 points)

2009 Domenico Clerico Barbera d'Alba Trevigne – The nose showed cinnamon spiced red berries, menthol, underbrush and a hint of green stems. On the palate, it was velvety smooth with black cherry, notes of dark chocolate and a bitter twang toward the close. The finish was long with saturating dark red fruits that turned to cranberry over time. (90 points)

2010 Bruno Giacosa Barbera d’alba – The nose showed pretty red berries, hints of herbs and grasses yet somehow subdued. On the palate, it was soft and balanced with great textures, red berries and menthol, as the fruit turned tart. The finish showed fresh cherry. This was an elegant and complete wine, yet nothing stood out to me. (90 points)

2009 Elio Altare Barbera d'Alba – The nose showed red berries, savory spice, tomato leaf and tobacco. On the palate, it was medium-bodied with a zing of acidity, showing intense cranberry, herbs and bitter notes. The finish was medium-long with tart red fruits that saturated the palate. (89 points)

2010 Armando Parusso Barbera d’Alba Ornati – The nose showed red berries, with woodland and pepper notes. On the palate, it was lean yet fresh with red fruits and a savory, smoky quality made refreshing by brisk acidity. (89 points)

2009 Boroli Quatrro Fratelli Barbera d’Alba – The nose showed an attractive mix of wild berries, meaty, savory sauce and pepper. On the palate, it was intense with red berries verses soft cleansing acidity that kept this balanced. It was a nice, simple Barbera, not assuming yet very pleasant. (88 points)

2009 Michele Chiarlo Barbera d'Asti Superiore Le Orme – The nose showed ripe, sweet red berries, candle wax and floral hints. On the palate, I found ripe red fruit with a good balance of acidity. The finish showed staying fresh red fruits and earth. This is highly enjoyable, but don’t try to overthink it, and it would make a great accompaniment to a plate of pasta. (88 points)

2009 Tenimenti Ca’Bianca Barbera d’Asti Superior Anté – The nose showed dark red berries, hints of licorice, spice notes and green stems. On the palate, it was soft with medium body, lower than expected acidity and flavors of tart berries that wrapped around the senses. The finish showed hints of cranberry, as tannin crept through slightly on the close. (88 points)

2011 Marchesi di Barolo Maraia Barbera del Monferrato – On the nose, I found wild berries, both red and blue, with hints of stems. On the palate, it was soft with tart berries but turned to cheek-puckering acidity and floral notes (lavender) lingering into the medium-length finish. (88 points)

2008 Tenimenti Ca’Bianca Chersi Barbera d’Asti Superiore – The nose showed dark red fruits, black cherry and tobacco. On the palate, it was rich and soft yet short with notes of red currant and hints of wood. The finish was short and simple yet pleasant. (87 points)

2009 Vietti Scarrone Barbera d’Alba – The nose showed rich, ripe cherry, cinnamon and dark chocolate. On the palate, it showed more dark chocolate, bitter red berries and teeming acidity versus a silky smooth mouth-feel. The finish showed tart red berries yet gave way to a sensation of alcoholic heat. (87 points)

2010 Jacuzzi Family Vineyards Barbera Mendocino Country – The nose reminded me of a cherry tartlet with savory grilled meat notes lingering in the background. On the palate, it was medium-bodied with gripping acidity, showing blackberry jam and pepper. The finish was chocolaty with hints of herbs. (87 points)

2011 McManis Janie Lynn Vineyard Barbera California – The nose showed floral red berries and spice. On the palate, it was smooth with cranberry fruit, yet light and diluted. The finish showed floral red fruits. (87 points)

2010 Marziano Abbona Rinaldi Barbera d’Able – The nose showed tart red fruits but was skunky, sweaty and herbal. On the palate, it was rich and intense with a nice zing of acidity that stayed with you. Intense, concentrated red berries and herbs filled the senses and then finished with staying acidic notes and chewy tannin. (86 points)

2009 Kramer Vineyards Barbera Walla Walla Valley – The nose showed red berries, herbs and notes of coconut. On the palate, it was medium-bodied with red fruits and an easy finish. (86 points)

2010 Bersano Costalunga d’Asti – On the nose, I found round red berries, a dusting of sugar and green stems. On the palate, it showed sweet red berries yet with good balancing acidity and hints of spice. However, the finish was very short and a bit drying. (85 points)

2006 Flavio Roddolo Barbera d'Alba – The nose showed medicinal cherry, cinnamon and hints of undergrowth, yet came across as dry and tired. On the palate, it was medium-bodied with brisk acidity and flavors that reminded me of a cherry Ricola. The finish was dry with lingering tart red berries. (84 points)

2007 Attilio Ghisolfi Maggiora Barbera d’Alba – The nose showed ripe black cherry, raspberry, vanilla, tobacco and spice. On the palate, it showed intense concentrated fruit against teeming acidity and tannin that attacked the palate and stayed through the tart finish. (83 points)

2009 Paolo Manzone Fiorenza Barbera D’alba – The nose showed red berries, herbal notes and medicinal cherry. On the palate, it was silky yet somehow dank, with overripe red berries and low acidity for Barbera. The finish showed tart fruit, but overall this wine came across as a little dirty and diluted. (82 points)