Summer of Swirling: V.I.P. Table Favorites

Article & Reviews by: Eric Guido

An amazing tasting at one of my favorite restaurants
of the summer: Danny Brown

It has been a summer full of fine foods, good friends and some absolutely beautiful bottles of wine. It has also been one of my busiest summers to date. My workload has been tremendous, hence the lack of updates here on the blog, but that doesn’t mean my focus and dedication have waivered. I feel it’s time to do a little summer recap and introduce my readers to some of the great bottles I’ve enjoyed—before they are all gone.  What’s more, autumn is right around the corner, and there are some red wines here that simply need to be retasted for optimal enjoyment as the weather cools.

Best Values

Let’s jump right into it with some of the best values I’ve found and work our way up to the vintage wines and highest scorers. Spain, Italy and Germany were on full display in my house this summer and for very good reason. These regions represent some of the best values in the wine world.

The Castillo de Monseran Carinena was new to me and a big surprise. The grape is Grenache, but not what you’d usually expect. If you’ve ever wondered what a Southern Rhone Grenache would taste like with more finesse and minerality, look no further.

2009 Castillo de Monseran Cariñena 50 Year Old Vines - The nose was ripe, yet characterful, showing dark fruit, ripe strawberry, mint, and a hint of oak. On the palate, it was rich and deeply rooted in brambly, earthy fruit with blackberry, currant, hints of stem and minerals. The texture was full yet grainy with tannin that tugged at your already black-fruit saturated palate. A solid vein of acidity kept it fresh enough for the dinner table, yet fun enough for the back porch. The finish was tart, with a slightly syrupy, lip-smacking quality--yet fresh. An excellent bottle of wine and a great value. (91 points) Monseran Website!

If there was a repeating theme this summer, it was my desire to drink more Riesling. Each time I opened the cellar door, I would start to think about these refreshing, acid-driven, mineral-laced and fruity wines. The Gunderloch Jean Baptiste Kabinett was without a doubt the best Quality-Price-Ratio Riesling of the bunch.

2012 Gunderloch Jean Baptiste Riesling Kabinett - The nose showed a light spritz of lemon and lime with moist minerals and hints of fresh cut grass. On the palate, there was a striking cut of acidity, lending tremendous freshness and a mouthwatering quality which nearly masked its ripe fruit; yet the fruit was still there and quite enjoyable. Peach, cherry and citrus notes lingered on the palate with stony minerals as the mouth continued to water. It was fresh and fruity with great minerality, a great QPR--what more could I ask for? (90 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

And then there’s Sardinia, an island off of the Italian mainland which too few of us wine lovers are exploring. Some of the most interesting Italian wines I’ve enjoyed over the years have come from this dramatically different region of Italy. In fact, two wines from Sardinia made today’s list of summer favorites. Here, it’s a little known grape named Carignano which is showcased in this racy and exotic value wine.

2010 Agricola Punica Montessu Isola dei Nuraghi IGT - The nose was exotic, showing dark red berry, currant, Indian spice and chalky minerals. On the palate, it was ripe yet racy and balanced with dark savory fruit tones and a rich chewy mouth feel. Tart red berry and hints of spice lingered long, turning darker and firmer with time. A very enjoyable bottle of wine! (90 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

Going back to Riesling for a moment, and a great wine for those of you who prefer the drier and more rock and mineral style, there’s the Stein St. Aldeguner Palmberg. This wine takes some time in the glass to come to life, but once it does—hold on to your chair. It’s rich yet racy and tense with gobs of mouthwatering intensity. A great relative value, as it’s not necessarily cheap, but worth every penny.

2011 Stein St. Aldegunder Palmberg-Terrassen Riesling Spätlese feinherb - Aromas jumped from the glass of this young Riesling, showing ripe pear, peach skins, wet mineral laden stone and hints of lemon. On the palate, there was a yin yang of fruit, acidity and minerality. Grapefruit was foremost with equal doses of acidity, as expected from a bite, and the sprinkle of sugar on top. Ripe peach flavor and weight added balance, along with gorgeous saline minerals, which poured out as the mouth began to water. The finish made the cheeks pucker with slight lemon pith, hints of fresh honeycomb and inner floral notes. To say I enjoyed this wine would be an understatement. (92 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

Could a summer favorites list exist without a bottle of Ridge? In my book, if there’s one red wine that must be stocked up for every summer and fall—it’s Ridge Zinfandel. These wines are just perfect for anything you can throw at them. Hot weather, sitting by the grill, barbecue, pool side, big steaks, spicy Mexican… the list can go on and on.

2011 Ridge Zinfandel Pagani Ranch - The nose was ripe and slightly rustic with intense wild berry fruit, candied black cherry, spiced vanilla and cola. It saturated the palate with ripe dark fruits, smokehouse wood and mineral-laden, black stone. Its intensity was well matched by a balancing acidity that kept it juicy--it was hard to believe this is 14.7% alc. The finish was loaded with dark fruit, yet clean and fresh; a really great effort, yet I feel it's an earlier drinking wine than the back label boasts. I honestly don't see this improving over the next seven to eight years--but that's because it's just so darn good now, why wait? (91 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2006 Dettori Tuderi in the glass

Top Wines

On to some of my favorites. There were some great wines on the table this summer. Some of them young and many of them just entering their maturity. Most of these can still be found by the crafty shopper.

One of the big performers this summer was the 1999 Monsanto Nemo. I have sung its praises in the past and I’ll go down this road again. Tuscan Cabernet can be amazing, and Monsanto makes one of the best around.

These wines age beautifully and are a perfect marriage of Cabernet fruit and Tuscan character. If you’ve never tried one—seek them out, but look for one with a little age, because these beauties can go two decades and just keep getting better and better.

1999 Castello di Monsanto Nemo Toscana IGT - The nose was dark and brooding with crushed plum, raspberry and currants, as notes of spiced tobacco, graphite, and mineral stone provided depth. On the palate, intense, rich, and somewhat savory fruit was kept fresh by balanced acidity as notes of dark red and black fruit, tobacco, and cedar covered the senses. The tannins here were perfectly integrated and provided a peak drinking experience. The finish seemed to slowly melt away from the palate with saturating plum, spice and lingering notes of tobacco. I’ve enjoyed Nemo many times; this was one of the best ones that I’ve had the pleasure to taste. (95 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

Revelatory would be the word to describe my experience with the 2005 Carlisle Zinfandel Carlisle Vineyard. I’ve had some great Zinfandel in my day, but this was a thing of beauty. The nose alone was worth the price of entry, and it was so unique and exotic with a finesse that was unbelievable. If you’re willing to spend up to the $45+ range for a Zinfandel, I highly recommend Carlisle.

2005 Carlisle Zinfandel Carlisle Vineyard - The nose was intense and constantly evolving with ripe yet fresh fruits, showing stemmed strawberry and cherry, sweet floral tones, exotic spice and minerals. On the palate, it was fresh yet expanded to cover all the senses in spirited ripe cherry, plum and dark chocolate. Juicy, ripe, spiced red fruits lingered on the finish. This wine was incredible and a new experience in Zinfandel for me. (94 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

If you read my blog or have ever had a chat with me about Barolo, then I’m sure the name Giacomo Conterno won’t be new to you. Giacomo Conterno makes some of the best Barolo you can buy, and boy does it cost. However, this house also happens to produce one of the most amazing Barbera you could possibly find. It’s not cheap, but great wine hardly ever is. These are big and burly in their youth with incredible intensity—yet they age into beautifully elegant wines of class. I turned some heads with this bottle, and at $40, you can’t go wrong.

2005 Giacomo Conterno Barbera d'Alba Cascina Francia - The nose was autumnal, showing dried leaves and cherry, sweet spice and hints of citrus peel. On the palate, dried red fruits with a bitter twang, licorice and mineral soil tones swirled around the senses in a mouthwatering, slightly angular yet truly refined expression of Barbera. The finish was long and palate-staining with red berry, yet it was truly fresh. This was my last of six bottles, and I must say that I’ve enjoyed the development of this wine more than almost any other. (93 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

Back to Sardinia with a wine that’s so good, it scares me. So much so that I raced back to buy another but they were already gone. Tenute Dettori makes uber organic wines which require patience and the right taster. What I mean by this is you can’t just open one of these and drink it down like a soft drink. Each experience I’ve had with Dettori has been so much better after the bottle has been allowed to breathe between 1 – 24 hours—no joke. The fact that this is one of their entry-level wines makes it all the more attractive. This is serious juice.

2006 Tenute Dettori Tuderi Romangia IGT - The color was translucent ruby with a bouquet that literally jumped from the glass without a swirl to show ripe notes of crushed cherry, sweet floral tones and cinnamon tea--yet then traverses toward the mineral and savory realm as hints of iron, smoke and animal musk join the fray. On the palate, it entered like cherry juice, but quickly firmed up and fleshed out in all directions, showing spiced herbal tea, wild blueberry, nutmeg, and with a tart grapefruit-like twist of acidity. The finish lingered long with flavors of tart cherry and spiced blood orange, which lingered on the back of my tongue. (93 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

* Dettori Tuderi is an uber-natural wine which demands decanting and will reward the patient taster. (15.5% alcohol, but oh so balanced)

Another Riesling? I did say it was one of my most reached-for wines of the summer. However, this one is another animal entirely. What’s more, it’s just a baby. Some may call this a sweet wine, but you’d have to taste it to understand that the balance is so perfect that you could drink this any day and at any time—but be prepared to be blown away. It’s amazingly fresh, perfectly ripe, detailed and layered. It soothes the palate, yet also excites it while sending veins of electric-like flavor enhancing acidity across your senses. If you think you don’t like sweet Riesling, then you must try the Selbach-Oster Rotlay. It will make you a believer.

2010 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling 'Rotlay' - The nose was insanely beautiful, showing sweet spices and floral notes, lemon curd, ripe peach with hints orange and green grass. On the palate, it was all about perfectly balanced intensity. The weight and sweetness of this wine is at first perceptible, but then is swept away by a burst of green apple acidity, leaving a slightly oily texture with tropical fruit and citrus notes which seem to last for over a minute throughout the finish. This is a sweet wine, balancing its girth as if on the point of a needle, swinging this way and that--yet never tipping over. Love it. (94 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher! 

An exciting lineup from G.D. Vajra

By Eric Guido

We all have our favorites and those favorites tend to change with time. For the longest time I would count myself among those that followed anything made by Vietti and to this day, I buy a number of their wines each year. However, recently, I have found a deep love for the wines of G.D. Vajra.

It all started at a tasting two years ago, where I was lucky enough to taste through the entire lineup. What stood out the most was the outstanding quality of the affordable Nebbiolo, the stunning and sexy tones of the Barbera and the purity of their single vineyard Barolo. Then the 2007 vintage of Barolo hit and the Vajra Bricco Delle Viole ended up as my top Baroli of the vintage. When I started to look back upon my tasting notes and scores, it became apparent that Vajra was a producer that I would have to follow.

So what makes Bricco delle Viole such an amazing wine? For one thing, in this world of an ever-expanding topic of global warming, Bricco delle Viole remains one of the highest elevation vineyards for all of Barolo. So as the average 2007 Baroli might have seemed over-ripe and concentrated, Vajra’s Barolo was in perfect balance. On a larger scale, when I think of the older wines I love and what they may have tasted like in their youth, Vajra is the closest to what I would guess these wines tasted like in their youth.

In the end, it’s just one man’s opinion, yet I full-heartedly believe that G.D. Vajra may be one of the top producers to watch in all of Piedmonte. I know their wines will fill my cellar.

On to the Tasting Notes:

2010 G.D. Vajra Langhe Bianco - The nose was clean, coming more to life as the wine warmed in the glass, showing nectarine, spicy floral notes, minerals, and almond skins. On the palate, it was crisp with ripe, yet focused peach and inner floral tones. A note of grapefruit and green apple lingered through the finish. (89 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

This being my first experience with a Riesling from Piedmont, I will say that I was very impressed. It may not be a blockbuster but it certainly showed a lot of potential. The style was more Alsace than Germany and great with a plate of mixed Wurst and Sauerkraut.

2011 G.D. Vajra Dolcetto d'Alba - The nose was earthy and floral with dark, mixed berry notes, hints of mountain herbs and chalky minerals. On the palate it was light to medium bodied with juicy acidity as notes of blackberry, with an herbal quality framed silky tannins that lasted through the long finish. (90 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

I really enjoyed this value oriented wine with tons of character. When it was first opened, at cellar temp, it was easy drinking and great with dinner. However, as it rose to room temperature, this easy drinking beauty gained weight and lots of dark Dolcetto character. Plus, with it's firm structure making an appearance on the palate, I have to wonder what this wine may become with another year in the cellar.

2009 G.D. Vajra Barbera d'Alba Superiore - The nose was intense and sexy with black cherry, woodland notes, dark chocolate, floral tones and a hint of vanilla. On the palate, it was rich yet perfectly juicy, showing notes of blackberry jam, sweet spices, tart cherry juice and cola with hint of tannin clinging to senses. The finish was long with concentrate ripe berry fruit coating the palate, along with well polished tannin that seemed to linger for over thirty seconds. (93 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

This may be a full-throtle, in your face Barbera but it stays juicy throughout with such beautiful fruit and structure that I just wanted to pour glass after glass.

2010 G.D. Vajra Langhe Nebbiolo - The nose showed intense raspberry, red floral tones, tar, animal musk, undergrowth and dark chocolate. On the palate it was medium-bodied with concentrated, tart cherry fruit, tobacco and leather. The finish was long with dry, red berries and grainy tannin that coated the palate. This is a little painfully to drink now but should be marvelous in a few years time. (92 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

I have to note, that after three days of being open, this wine continued to show amazing fruit and purity with no signs of deterioration. It's a beautiful Nebbiolo that will find a place in my cellar.

2008 G.D. Vajra Barolo Albe - The nose showed ripe cherry, floral and tobacco notes with hints of herbs and cedar. On the palate, it was youthful yet still enjoyable with red berry fruits, licorice, and dark savory tones on a medium body showing excellent balance. The finish lingered for over a minute as ripe berry fruit slowly melted away from the palate to reveal a layer of fine tannin. (93 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

Barbera: Not Just A Pretty Name

My first food and wine-pairing epiphany was with a bottle of Barbera d’Alba and a plate of penne dressed with a simple tomato sauce. Before that moment, I didn’t put much thought into food with wine. Yet after that moment, my fate was sealed. It was not just how the Barbera lent the sauce a mix of dark woodsy and berry fruit flavors in the aftertaste. What really did it for me was how the Barbera reinforced the tomato flavors and made them taste more “tomato-y.” Add to that a dollop of brisk acidity, which is a textbook calling card of Barbera, and you have an amazing food-pairing wine.

Barbera is a light to medium-bodied red, generally with a low level of tannin yet with acidity to spare. On the nose and palate you can find a mix of bright red berry flavors, spice, floral and woodsy notes. In the right hands, they can be downright sexy. This consummate Italian varietal has also been seeing a good amount of success in California, yet to this taster’s palate, they can often be too ripe, bordering on jammy. Yet if there’s one place outside of Italy where it makes sense for Barbera to succeed, it is in California.

Barbera has also had its challenges. For one thing, it’s a vigorous varietal that tempts some of the less quality-minded producers to opt for quantity over quality wine. Another drawback can be the use of oak, which when applied with a deft hand results in a gorgeous and well balanced wine but when over-used comes across as way to much makeup on a natural beauty. The good news is that most Barbera (juicy, ripe and vibrant) can be found at great prices.

One of my favorite styles of Barbera comes from Alba, with their darker, softer personalities, but there is one drawback. In Alba, Nebbiolo is king (the single grape responsible for making Barolo), and since most of the perfectly exposed parcels are given to Nebbiolo, it leaves Barbera with the less favorable spots. However, there are many producers that put much more emphasis on Barbera, both where it is grown and the attention it sees in the vineyard. Suffice to say, these are wines that are worth seeking out.

In Asti, Barbera takes the spotlight, which also means the best vineyard locations. These are mineral and acid-driven wines, which demand a plate of rich mountain food. I love them for what they are and often crave them with a slice of white pizza, polenta with Parmigiano-Reggiano or just about anything with mushrooms on top.

Then there’s Monferrato, which is considered by many to be the birthplace of Barbera. Producers here have been making good Barbera for quite some time but they are only starting to see good representation in the States. In my recent tasting, I found these wines to be the most exciting with a mix between the richer Alba style and the mineral Asti style, plus an air of Alpine hills. They are fascinating wines that require the attention of anyone looking to better understand Northern Italian reds.

Below, you’ll find my notes on over 20 current release Barberas. Some are from the top names in Piedmont, and some aren’t even from Italy. I think you’ll find the list to be quite useful and I’m pleased to say that many of my favorite bottles, like the Guidobono, can be found for well under $20. Enjoy.

On to the notes:

2009 Elio Grasso Barbera d'Alba Vigna Martina – The nose was modern and ripe but not overdone with notes of toasty oak, plum sauce, spicy black cherry and crushed stone. On the palate, it was smooth as silk and rich with balanced acidity keeping it juicy throughout. Flavors of savory black cherry and saline minerals gave way to dry wood tannins. The long finish was saturating with dark cherry fruit. It’s very good now, but I would give this a few more years in the cellar for the tannin to mellow. (92 points)

2010 Guidobono Barbera d'Alba – The nose showed a mix of ripe crushed berries with cinnamon and spice, floral notes and hints of herbs. On the palate, it had a medium body and filled the senses with silky black and red fruits yet remained juicy and focused throughout. The finish showed tart cherry, which lingered on the palate complemented by a hint of tannin. (92 points)

2009 Vietti Barbera d'Alba Tre Vigne – The nose showed ripe red berries and slight confectionary notes with spice and sawdust. On the palate, it was dark and spicy with a dollop of fresh acidity and soft textures yielding red and black fruits. The finish was dry, showing medicinal cherry and dark chocolate. It was easy to drink and refreshing. (91 points)

2010 La Casaccia Barbera Giuanin Barbera del Monferrato – The nose showed alpine notes of tart red berries, herbs, wild flowers and hints of pepper. On the palate, it was smooth yet intense with focused raspberry fruit and gripping tannin which fleshed out nicely toward the back palate. The finish was medium-long with lingering acidity and tart red berries. (90 points)

2009 Marchesi di Barolo Barbera d'Alba Ruvei – The very attractive nose showed spiced berries, herbs and leather. On the palate, it was intense yet silky, with tart berries and spice, softening acidity, and excellent balance. The finish was lingering with dark fruits, not long but very smooth. (90 points)

2009 Domenico Clerico Barbera d'Alba Trevigne – The nose showed cinnamon spiced red berries, menthol, underbrush and a hint of green stems. On the palate, it was velvety smooth with black cherry, notes of dark chocolate and a bitter twang toward the close. The finish was long with saturating dark red fruits that turned to cranberry over time. (90 points)

2010 Bruno Giacosa Barbera d’alba – The nose showed pretty red berries, hints of herbs and grasses yet somehow subdued. On the palate, it was soft and balanced with great textures, red berries and menthol, as the fruit turned tart. The finish showed fresh cherry. This was an elegant and complete wine, yet nothing stood out to me. (90 points)

2009 Elio Altare Barbera d'Alba – The nose showed red berries, savory spice, tomato leaf and tobacco. On the palate, it was medium-bodied with a zing of acidity, showing intense cranberry, herbs and bitter notes. The finish was medium-long with tart red fruits that saturated the palate. (89 points)

2010 Armando Parusso Barbera d’Alba Ornati – The nose showed red berries, with woodland and pepper notes. On the palate, it was lean yet fresh with red fruits and a savory, smoky quality made refreshing by brisk acidity. (89 points)

2009 Boroli Quatrro Fratelli Barbera d’Alba – The nose showed an attractive mix of wild berries, meaty, savory sauce and pepper. On the palate, it was intense with red berries verses soft cleansing acidity that kept this balanced. It was a nice, simple Barbera, not assuming yet very pleasant. (88 points)

2009 Michele Chiarlo Barbera d'Asti Superiore Le Orme – The nose showed ripe, sweet red berries, candle wax and floral hints. On the palate, I found ripe red fruit with a good balance of acidity. The finish showed staying fresh red fruits and earth. This is highly enjoyable, but don’t try to overthink it, and it would make a great accompaniment to a plate of pasta. (88 points)

2009 Tenimenti Ca’Bianca Barbera d’Asti Superior Anté – The nose showed dark red berries, hints of licorice, spice notes and green stems. On the palate, it was soft with medium body, lower than expected acidity and flavors of tart berries that wrapped around the senses. The finish showed hints of cranberry, as tannin crept through slightly on the close. (88 points)

2011 Marchesi di Barolo Maraia Barbera del Monferrato – On the nose, I found wild berries, both red and blue, with hints of stems. On the palate, it was soft with tart berries but turned to cheek-puckering acidity and floral notes (lavender) lingering into the medium-length finish. (88 points)

2008 Tenimenti Ca’Bianca Chersi Barbera d’Asti Superiore – The nose showed dark red fruits, black cherry and tobacco. On the palate, it was rich and soft yet short with notes of red currant and hints of wood. The finish was short and simple yet pleasant. (87 points)

2009 Vietti Scarrone Barbera d’Alba – The nose showed rich, ripe cherry, cinnamon and dark chocolate. On the palate, it showed more dark chocolate, bitter red berries and teeming acidity versus a silky smooth mouth-feel. The finish showed tart red berries yet gave way to a sensation of alcoholic heat. (87 points)

2010 Jacuzzi Family Vineyards Barbera Mendocino Country – The nose reminded me of a cherry tartlet with savory grilled meat notes lingering in the background. On the palate, it was medium-bodied with gripping acidity, showing blackberry jam and pepper. The finish was chocolaty with hints of herbs. (87 points)

2011 McManis Janie Lynn Vineyard Barbera California – The nose showed floral red berries and spice. On the palate, it was smooth with cranberry fruit, yet light and diluted. The finish showed floral red fruits. (87 points)

2010 Marziano Abbona Rinaldi Barbera d’Able – The nose showed tart red fruits but was skunky, sweaty and herbal. On the palate, it was rich and intense with a nice zing of acidity that stayed with you. Intense, concentrated red berries and herbs filled the senses and then finished with staying acidic notes and chewy tannin. (86 points)

2009 Kramer Vineyards Barbera Walla Walla Valley – The nose showed red berries, herbs and notes of coconut. On the palate, it was medium-bodied with red fruits and an easy finish. (86 points)

2010 Bersano Costalunga d’Asti – On the nose, I found round red berries, a dusting of sugar and green stems. On the palate, it showed sweet red berries yet with good balancing acidity and hints of spice. However, the finish was very short and a bit drying. (85 points)

2006 Flavio Roddolo Barbera d'Alba – The nose showed medicinal cherry, cinnamon and hints of undergrowth, yet came across as dry and tired. On the palate, it was medium-bodied with brisk acidity and flavors that reminded me of a cherry Ricola. The finish was dry with lingering tart red berries. (84 points)

2007 Attilio Ghisolfi Maggiora Barbera d’Alba – The nose showed ripe black cherry, raspberry, vanilla, tobacco and spice. On the palate, it showed intense concentrated fruit against teeming acidity and tannin that attacked the palate and stayed through the tart finish. (83 points)

2009 Paolo Manzone Fiorenza Barbera D’alba – The nose showed red berries, herbal notes and medicinal cherry. On the palate, it was silky yet somehow dank, with overripe red berries and low acidity for Barbera. The finish showed tart fruit, but overall this wine came across as a little dirty and diluted. (82 points)

Producer Spotlight: G.D. Vajra

A couple of terms I’ve often heard in Italian wine circles, “Buy the producer, not the vintage.” or “If you want to find a good Barbera or Dolcetto, look to the producer of a good Barolo.” In this case, G.D. Vajra applies to both. Only a year ago, the name G.D. Vajra was nothing more to me than another producer of Barolo making wine in the Langhe with a single vineyard bottle coming from Bricco Viole vineyard.

However, since that time, my head has been turned. It started with a review from Antonio Galloni (Wine Advocate), of the 2006 G.D. Vajra Freisa, which he scored 95 points. To me, it was the challenge of tasting a Freisa (a generally good red that remains obscure outside of Italophile circles) that could possibly score 95 points. In the end, the bottle was open, glasses poured and emptied--and I sat speechless, thinking about how utterly enjoyable the wine was. Following this experience, I realized that I had to taste more wines from this producer.

G.D. Vajra is no newcomer to Barolo; in fact, Aldo and Milena Vaira have been making notable wines since the early eighties. However, it has only been in the last few years that these wines have truly started to catch on here in the States. They are admittedly traditional in style, yet each of their wines seem to have such purity of fruit and notable elegance that it’s hard to imagine exactly how they’ve achieved such a unique style. Whatever it may be, it’s obvious to me that the fruits that go into these wines are of the highest quality, and that great attention is paid in making sure it’s transparent to the taster.

What’s more, after speaking with Giuseppe Vaira, Aldo’s son, the most apparent thing to me is that, this family of winemakers has a level of intense passion that is infectious. It’s a passion for the vines, the soil and the wine that shines through as Giuseppe speaks about this beautiful set of releases. I would recommend each of the wines below as perfect examples of their kind.

On to the notes:

2009 G.D. Vajra Dolcetto d'Alba – The nose showed focused blackberry fruit with spice, floral notes and wood tones. On the palate, this showed vibrant acidity with more blackberry and hints of citrus, leading to a clean fruity finish that provided those token Dolcetto bitters that I have grown to love. (89 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

2008 G.D. Vajra Barbera d'Alba – The nose showed gorgeous red fruits, earth and stems. On the palate, I experienced intense ripe red berries with hints of cedar, turning to sour cherry on the finish. This wine was so pure and honest, as the quality of the fruit showed through more than anything else. (91 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

2009 G.D. Vajra Langhe Nebbiolo – The nose showed bright florals and cranberry with menthol and hints of wood. On the palate, this wine’s feminine structure and zesty acidity made for a lifting, airy expression with pure sour cherry. The finish was fresh and palate-cleansing. This is a beautiful, young Nebbiolo that can be sipped for enjoyment but also the perfect companion for food. (92 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

2007 G.D. Vajra Langhe Freisa Kyè - The nose showed blueberries and cherries dusted in confectioners sugar with forest notes and holiday spice. On the palate, a wave of concentration was washed down by vibrant acidity, leaving a slightly bitter finish. Rich blackberry flavors and tealeaves filled out the palate, and the finish showed an interesting spiced orange note. This may need time to integrate a little, but there's serious potential in the bottle and should be on the list of any serious Italian wine lover. (92 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

2006 G.D. Vajra Barolo Albe - The nose showed dusty black cherry, allspice, rock dust and hints on menthol. On the palate, I found wild red berries, earth, green olive and crushed flower petals with teaming acidity and a slight sour profile. The finish showed cedar and leather, but unlike most Barolo of its age, no overwhelming tannin was present. This may not be a Barolo for the ages, but it is very enjoyable now. (90 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher 

2005 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole – The nose of the Bricco delle Viole was elegant and classy, as red wild berries, roses, wood and spice aromas wafted up from the glass. On the palate, I found enveloping red fruit restrained behind a firm feminine structure. The finish coated the palate in silky tannin. From the nose alone, this bottle shows a bright future. (94 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

2009 G.D. Vajra Moscato d'Asti – The nose showed pear, honeydew and hints of citrus. On the palate, I found plush, sweet apple in a mouth-filling yet beautifully fresh expression of Moscato. The finish showed hints of lime and a lingering refreshing sweetness. (89 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher