An exciting lineup from G.D. Vajra

By Eric Guido

We all have our favorites and those favorites tend to change with time. For the longest time I would count myself among those that followed anything made by Vietti and to this day, I buy a number of their wines each year. However, recently, I have found a deep love for the wines of G.D. Vajra.

It all started at a tasting two years ago, where I was lucky enough to taste through the entire lineup. What stood out the most was the outstanding quality of the affordable Nebbiolo, the stunning and sexy tones of the Barbera and the purity of their single vineyard Barolo. Then the 2007 vintage of Barolo hit and the Vajra Bricco Delle Viole ended up as my top Baroli of the vintage. When I started to look back upon my tasting notes and scores, it became apparent that Vajra was a producer that I would have to follow.

So what makes Bricco delle Viole such an amazing wine? For one thing, in this world of an ever-expanding topic of global warming, Bricco delle Viole remains one of the highest elevation vineyards for all of Barolo. So as the average 2007 Baroli might have seemed over-ripe and concentrated, Vajra’s Barolo was in perfect balance. On a larger scale, when I think of the older wines I love and what they may have tasted like in their youth, Vajra is the closest to what I would guess these wines tasted like in their youth.

In the end, it’s just one man’s opinion, yet I full-heartedly believe that G.D. Vajra may be one of the top producers to watch in all of Piedmonte. I know their wines will fill my cellar.

On to the Tasting Notes:

2010 G.D. Vajra Langhe Bianco - The nose was clean, coming more to life as the wine warmed in the glass, showing nectarine, spicy floral notes, minerals, and almond skins. On the palate, it was crisp with ripe, yet focused peach and inner floral tones. A note of grapefruit and green apple lingered through the finish. (89 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

This being my first experience with a Riesling from Piedmont, I will say that I was very impressed. It may not be a blockbuster but it certainly showed a lot of potential. The style was more Alsace than Germany and great with a plate of mixed Wurst and Sauerkraut.

2011 G.D. Vajra Dolcetto d'Alba - The nose was earthy and floral with dark, mixed berry notes, hints of mountain herbs and chalky minerals. On the palate it was light to medium bodied with juicy acidity as notes of blackberry, with an herbal quality framed silky tannins that lasted through the long finish. (90 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

I really enjoyed this value oriented wine with tons of character. When it was first opened, at cellar temp, it was easy drinking and great with dinner. However, as it rose to room temperature, this easy drinking beauty gained weight and lots of dark Dolcetto character. Plus, with it's firm structure making an appearance on the palate, I have to wonder what this wine may become with another year in the cellar.

2009 G.D. Vajra Barbera d'Alba Superiore - The nose was intense and sexy with black cherry, woodland notes, dark chocolate, floral tones and a hint of vanilla. On the palate, it was rich yet perfectly juicy, showing notes of blackberry jam, sweet spices, tart cherry juice and cola with hint of tannin clinging to senses. The finish was long with concentrate ripe berry fruit coating the palate, along with well polished tannin that seemed to linger for over thirty seconds. (93 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

This may be a full-throtle, in your face Barbera but it stays juicy throughout with such beautiful fruit and structure that I just wanted to pour glass after glass.

2010 G.D. Vajra Langhe Nebbiolo - The nose showed intense raspberry, red floral tones, tar, animal musk, undergrowth and dark chocolate. On the palate it was medium-bodied with concentrated, tart cherry fruit, tobacco and leather. The finish was long with dry, red berries and grainy tannin that coated the palate. This is a little painfully to drink now but should be marvelous in a few years time. (92 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

I have to note, that after three days of being open, this wine continued to show amazing fruit and purity with no signs of deterioration. It's a beautiful Nebbiolo that will find a place in my cellar.

2008 G.D. Vajra Barolo Albe - The nose showed ripe cherry, floral and tobacco notes with hints of herbs and cedar. On the palate, it was youthful yet still enjoyable with red berry fruits, licorice, and dark savory tones on a medium body showing excellent balance. The finish lingered for over a minute as ripe berry fruit slowly melted away from the palate to reveal a layer of fine tannin. (93 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

Producer Spotlight: G.D. Vajra

A couple of terms I’ve often heard in Italian wine circles, “Buy the producer, not the vintage.” or “If you want to find a good Barbera or Dolcetto, look to the producer of a good Barolo.” In this case, G.D. Vajra applies to both. Only a year ago, the name G.D. Vajra was nothing more to me than another producer of Barolo making wine in the Langhe with a single vineyard bottle coming from Bricco Viole vineyard.

However, since that time, my head has been turned. It started with a review from Antonio Galloni (Wine Advocate), of the 2006 G.D. Vajra Freisa, which he scored 95 points. To me, it was the challenge of tasting a Freisa (a generally good red that remains obscure outside of Italophile circles) that could possibly score 95 points. In the end, the bottle was open, glasses poured and emptied--and I sat speechless, thinking about how utterly enjoyable the wine was. Following this experience, I realized that I had to taste more wines from this producer.

G.D. Vajra is no newcomer to Barolo; in fact, Aldo and Milena Vaira have been making notable wines since the early eighties. However, it has only been in the last few years that these wines have truly started to catch on here in the States. They are admittedly traditional in style, yet each of their wines seem to have such purity of fruit and notable elegance that it’s hard to imagine exactly how they’ve achieved such a unique style. Whatever it may be, it’s obvious to me that the fruits that go into these wines are of the highest quality, and that great attention is paid in making sure it’s transparent to the taster.

What’s more, after speaking with Giuseppe Vaira, Aldo’s son, the most apparent thing to me is that, this family of winemakers has a level of intense passion that is infectious. It’s a passion for the vines, the soil and the wine that shines through as Giuseppe speaks about this beautiful set of releases. I would recommend each of the wines below as perfect examples of their kind.

On to the notes:

2009 G.D. Vajra Dolcetto d'Alba – The nose showed focused blackberry fruit with spice, floral notes and wood tones. On the palate, this showed vibrant acidity with more blackberry and hints of citrus, leading to a clean fruity finish that provided those token Dolcetto bitters that I have grown to love. (89 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

2008 G.D. Vajra Barbera d'Alba – The nose showed gorgeous red fruits, earth and stems. On the palate, I experienced intense ripe red berries with hints of cedar, turning to sour cherry on the finish. This wine was so pure and honest, as the quality of the fruit showed through more than anything else. (91 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

2009 G.D. Vajra Langhe Nebbiolo – The nose showed bright florals and cranberry with menthol and hints of wood. On the palate, this wine’s feminine structure and zesty acidity made for a lifting, airy expression with pure sour cherry. The finish was fresh and palate-cleansing. This is a beautiful, young Nebbiolo that can be sipped for enjoyment but also the perfect companion for food. (92 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

2007 G.D. Vajra Langhe Freisa Kyè - The nose showed blueberries and cherries dusted in confectioners sugar with forest notes and holiday spice. On the palate, a wave of concentration was washed down by vibrant acidity, leaving a slightly bitter finish. Rich blackberry flavors and tealeaves filled out the palate, and the finish showed an interesting spiced orange note. This may need time to integrate a little, but there's serious potential in the bottle and should be on the list of any serious Italian wine lover. (92 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

2006 G.D. Vajra Barolo Albe - The nose showed dusty black cherry, allspice, rock dust and hints on menthol. On the palate, I found wild red berries, earth, green olive and crushed flower petals with teaming acidity and a slight sour profile. The finish showed cedar and leather, but unlike most Barolo of its age, no overwhelming tannin was present. This may not be a Barolo for the ages, but it is very enjoyable now. (90 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher 

2005 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole – The nose of the Bricco delle Viole was elegant and classy, as red wild berries, roses, wood and spice aromas wafted up from the glass. On the palate, I found enveloping red fruit restrained behind a firm feminine structure. The finish coated the palate in silky tannin. From the nose alone, this bottle shows a bright future. (94 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

2009 G.D. Vajra Moscato d'Asti – The nose showed pear, honeydew and hints of citrus. On the palate, I found plush, sweet apple in a mouth-filling yet beautifully fresh expression of Moscato. The finish showed hints of lime and a lingering refreshing sweetness. (89 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

If I had to choose one winery?

Recently, I was involved in a discussion amongst collectors that really made me think. If you could have the portfolio of one winery in your cellar, and nothing else, which would it be? Most people first thought of that prized bottle that they hold on a pedestal and others were quick to answer a winery with a portfolio of wines that are great but all very similar. I answered, Vietti.

Why? Because with five years of serious wine collecting under my belt, I can think of no other winery with such a high level of quality and vast selection as Vietti (with Ridge vineyards as my runner up). What truly started me on the road to collecting wine with the intention of cellaring and enjoying throughout my life was a Vietti wine, namely the Barolo Rocche. It was “that” bottle, the one that convinces you that a wine can cost $100 and be worth every penny and also the wine that shows the overwhelming positives of buying a wine at release and cellaring it to mature perfection.

Don’t misinterpret me, Vietti is not just about $100 bottles of Barolo. Even I would get sick of drinking Barolo every night of my life… well, maybe not.

The fact is that Vietti is a producer of some of the best quality-to-price ratio wines coming out of Piedmont, Italy today. With an entry level, yet absolutely stunning Barbera Tre vigne and a fresh and bubbly Moscato d’Asti under $15, they fill the any day nitch. The Roero Arneis is a versatile, floral and mineral driven wine that can satisfy your thirst for both an unassuming as well as a thought provoking white wine. The extremely affordable Nebbiolo Perbacco is practically an entry level Barolo in all but name.

In fact, Vietti has a wine for just about any palate and any occasion. Their upper tier Barolo and Barbaresco are seductive and nuanced with the potential to age or be enjoyed young. And then, of course, there are the Barolos. First, the affordable, blended Castiglione, which receives fruit from a number of esteemed vineyards and, at an average cost of $45, is a serious value. Then, a set of unique, single vineyard bottlings, which are each, tailored to fit any preference of Barolo, whether it be the traditional and finessed Rocche or the oaky and rich Lazzarito.

Can you tell I'm smitten?

Well, it’s all that and more. If you know Vietti, I’m sure you agree, and if you don’t, then I suggest you seek them out. Because whether you have a ten bottle capacity wine fridge in your kitchen or a 10,000 bottle cellar you call home, these are wines that belong in everyone’s collection.

I’ve assembled my most recent notes on some Vietti wines I have in my cellar. Each is worth seeking out and please keep my scoring system in mind. Where many wine publications have submitted to the idea that great wine should always be 90+ points, I find that system flawed and leaving little room for the definition of great wine. In my book an 87 is a pretty good score and a 90+ is when you start getting into the truly stunning examples.

2008 Vietti Roero Arneis - Shows the color of golden yellow straw with whimsical aromas of spring rain, white flowers and lime. On the palate you find granny smith apple, green melon, and orange rind, all carried by vibrant acidity with a laser-like focus. The finish shows citrus fruit and leaves your palate feeling cleansed and refreshed. (89 pts.)

2009 Vietti Moscato d'Asti Cascinetta Vietti - Very refreshing with a semi-sweet spritz, a bit of yeast on the nose and white stone fruit on the palate. Very popular with the crowd I shared it with. Limited notes. (87 pts.)

2007 Vietti Barbera d'Asti Tre Vigne - The color is a deep reddish purple. On the nose I found red fruit with floral notes, cedar and a slight funk of undergrowth. A lively expression forms on the tongue as its brisk acidity makes the mouth water yet bombards it with sour cherry fruit. Juicy cranberry is on the finish, which stays fresh for what seems like a minute. This is textbook Barbera at a great price. (90 pts.)

2006 Vietti Langhe Nebbiolo Perbacco - Tasted between 3 to 6 hours of decanting. What a treat, with a nose full of black cherry, tobacco, new leather, and a bit of anise and undergrowth. The palate shows sour cherry, earth and citrus-prune on the mid palate. Medium bodied with a fresh but slightly tannic structure, this is followed by a long finish with raspberry fruit. Simply put, this is one of the two best Langhe Nebbiolos that I've ever had. (91 pts.)

1996 Vietti Barolo Rocche - Darker color than expected with a dark ruby red fading only slightly around the edges. The nose on the wine is incredibly expressive with deep black cherry, prunes, dried flowers and beef broth, initially. With more time in the glass, you find crushed, dried leaves and fruit compote. The palate is still masked to a small degree by a wall of tongue coating tannin, but still enjoyable with red fruits, tobacco and iodine. The finish shows bitter cocoa and sour cranberry fruit. (93 pts.)

2000 Vietti Barolo Rocche - Bouquet of fresh cut flowers, tobacco and leather with berry fruit. Full bodied with present but fine tannin and raspberry fruit. A little hot but so enjoyable. Long finish. (92 pts.)

2005 Vietti Barbera d'Alba Vigna Vecchia Scarrone - This bottle was almost like a Zinfandel in its spicy and woodsy notes but with the kick of a Barbera that kept your mouth watering. What more could I ask for in a pairing with Risotto? The nose was a candy shop of dark fruit turning to blueberries and with a super long mouth coating finish. (94 pts.)

If this article has really peaked you interest in this amazing winery, I strongly urge you to check out their website. Vietti is a family run business that can trace its roots back to the 19th century, Their website is an excellent resource for information on the family, it’s wines and even some great Piedmont recipes. Check it out here!