Roero: The Sleeping Giant

There’s been talk of a sleeping giant in Piedmont. The Roero has suddenly been brought into the public eye with wines made from familiar varietals of the region, namely Nebbiolo, Barbera and Arneis. Some say it’s global warming which has allowed these wines to shine. Others say it’s something of a renaissance and that the quality in the zone has gone up as growers become more informed and update their winemaking practices. I’m sure there’s truth in both opinions.

Image from Monchiero Carbone

What’s obvious is that the Roero is becoming a force to be reckoned with. Situated northwest from the Barbaresco and Barolo zones and divided from the Langhe by the Tanaro River, the Roero has similar elevations to the Langhe but a calcareous soil that has a higher content of sand. Many producers said these wines are more approachable, and in many cases, I agree. However, there are still masses of Nebbiolo character and tannin in these wines, and most of what I tasted should age beautifully. The aging requirements of Roero reds are 20 months with 6 months in barrel, whereas the riservas are required to age for 32 months before release, which is very close to the three years required for a Barolo. In fact, a number of producers had explained that they have taken to aging these wines with a similar wood treatment (one year) as is seen in Barbaresco.

Image from Giovanni Almondo 

The results are stunning, and many of the wines I tasted could have passed for Barbaresco, yet with a juicer and more vibrant youthfulness. When you consider this, and that most bottles cost less than their Barolo and Barbaresco counterparts, you’ll see that these are wines that are worth your attention. Lastly, I would be remiss to not mention the Arneis of Monchiero Carbone, which was so enjoyable that I had to include it here.

On to the wines:

2008 Monchiero Carbone Printi Roero Riserva – The nose showed floral potpourri and cinnamon in a very pretty, refined expression. On the palate, I found focused sour cherry fruit and herbs. The medium finish lent hints of tannins and this wine’s fine structure. This was a great example of the emerging Nebbiolo coming from Roero. (91 points) visit the Monchiero Carbone website!

2010 Monchiero Carbone CECU D’la Biunda Roero Arneis – The nose showed fresh cut flowers, honey suckle, a spritz of lime and almond. On the palate, it was rich yet balanced with focused white fruits and a mouthwatering quality that lasted into the finish with a hint of medicinal herbs. (90 points) visit the Monchiero Carbone website!

2007 Malvira Roero Renesio Riserva – The nose showed strawberry, herbs and woodland notes. On the palate, it was juicy and finessed with intense red fruits and woodsy, earthy notes. The fruit fell off quickly in the finish yet left flavors of spice and medicinal herbs. (89 points) visit the Malvira website!

2008 Giovanni Almondo Roero Bric Valdiana – The nose was big and rich, yet lovely, with red berries, spice cookie and apple butter. On the palate, I found lean red fruit against rugged structured Nebbiolo tannin. The finish followed suit, showing its structure and promising a long life ahead. (92 points) Visit the Giovanni Almondo Website!

Food and Wine in December

December tends to be my busiest time of year and usually keeps me away from tasting as much as I’d like. Luckily, I was still able to find a few diamonds in the rough. Through December, I was able to taste an amazing white from Piedmont that anyone who loves white wine should know about, some great vintage Vin Santo that’s available and affordable, and a truly exciting yet stylish Cab Franc from Long Island.

However, December wasn’t all about wine. What’s Cookin’ also released one of my newest articles “Eric Guido’s Eggplant Parmigiana” a recipe that comes right from my heart. This is serious Italian American homestyle cooking that was taught to me by my grandmother and hardly changed by my trained hand. Why mess with perfection?

Eric Guido's Eggplant Parmigiana

If you were to ask any of my friends or clients about my specialty, they would quickly inform you that it’s risotto. However, it wasn’t always so. Long before my professional career and formal training, I was a cook that depended on what I learned as a child. The rich Italian-American cooking of my family was my strong suit and, more than anything else, it was my grandmother’s Eggplant Parmigiana... (For the full article and recipe, visit: What's Cookin

On to the wines:

Arneis is a white grape indigenous to Piedmont, Italy. Many bottles of Arneis are easily forgettable, but in the hands of some producers (Bruno Giacosa & Vietti come to mind), they are gorgeous, showing white flowers and citrus fruits, with a mix of richness and finesse on the palate. This one is the best I’ve tasted to date:

2009 Bruno Giacosa Roero Arneis - On the nose, I found white flowers and citrus zest with hints of honey and slight toastiness. The palate was crisp and fresh yet still showed weight with flavors of sweet peach, apricots and cream. The finish was fresh and floral. This may be the best Arneis I’ve ever had. (91 Points)

Find it on Wine-Searcher!

The North Fork of Long Island continues to push its way into the world of fine wine but it’s an uphill battle. Nonetheless, many quality producers are determined to show what the North Fork is capable of (Shinn and Paumanok come to mind). The bottle below, from Vineyard 48, was thoroughly enjoyable. Think an official visit to the North Fork is in order for later this year.

2007 Vineyard 48 Cabernet Franc Reserve - The nose showed licorice and cherry liquor with a hint of musky animal fur and new oak. On the palate, I found strawberry fruit, milk chocolate and sweet vanilla on a full bodied frame. The finish was long and fresh with red fruits. This was very enjoyable and with enough character to cut through the rich fruit. (90 Points)

For more information, visit: Vineyard 48

Vin Santo is not a wine you see at many tastings and events these days. The fact is, dessert wines fell out of style a while back and it’s because of this that you don’t see quality Vin Santo adorning the shelves of your trusted wine merchant. However, this almost forgotten style, in the United States, is still the pride of many Tuscan winemakers portfolios. I was lucky enough to taste a ’90 Vin Santo about two years ago and it changed the way I thought about this wine. So it might be sweet… but it also possesses depths of flavors and nuances unheard of in dry wines. I highly recommend that my readers try a good aged Vin Santo, and the one below would be a great place to start.

1994 Isole e Olena Vin Santo del Chianti Classico - Roasted almond, varnish, orange peel, chestnut and smoke filled out the nose of this beautiful Vin Santo. The palate was perfectly resolved, yet lively, with acidity and sweet caramel followed by roasting nuts and a hint of tropical fruit. The finish was over a minute long with vibrant acidity, showing nuts and orange that faded into warm wood tones. (92 Points)

I found this great bottle at: Grapes: The Wine Company

If I had to choose one winery?

Recently, I was involved in a discussion amongst collectors that really made me think. If you could have the portfolio of one winery in your cellar, and nothing else, which would it be? Most people first thought of that prized bottle that they hold on a pedestal and others were quick to answer a winery with a portfolio of wines that are great but all very similar. I answered, Vietti.

Why? Because with five years of serious wine collecting under my belt, I can think of no other winery with such a high level of quality and vast selection as Vietti (with Ridge vineyards as my runner up). What truly started me on the road to collecting wine with the intention of cellaring and enjoying throughout my life was a Vietti wine, namely the Barolo Rocche. It was “that” bottle, the one that convinces you that a wine can cost $100 and be worth every penny and also the wine that shows the overwhelming positives of buying a wine at release and cellaring it to mature perfection.

Don’t misinterpret me, Vietti is not just about $100 bottles of Barolo. Even I would get sick of drinking Barolo every night of my life… well, maybe not.

The fact is that Vietti is a producer of some of the best quality-to-price ratio wines coming out of Piedmont, Italy today. With an entry level, yet absolutely stunning Barbera Tre vigne and a fresh and bubbly Moscato d’Asti under $15, they fill the any day nitch. The Roero Arneis is a versatile, floral and mineral driven wine that can satisfy your thirst for both an unassuming as well as a thought provoking white wine. The extremely affordable Nebbiolo Perbacco is practically an entry level Barolo in all but name.

In fact, Vietti has a wine for just about any palate and any occasion. Their upper tier Barolo and Barbaresco are seductive and nuanced with the potential to age or be enjoyed young. And then, of course, there are the Barolos. First, the affordable, blended Castiglione, which receives fruit from a number of esteemed vineyards and, at an average cost of $45, is a serious value. Then, a set of unique, single vineyard bottlings, which are each, tailored to fit any preference of Barolo, whether it be the traditional and finessed Rocche or the oaky and rich Lazzarito.

Can you tell I'm smitten?

Well, it’s all that and more. If you know Vietti, I’m sure you agree, and if you don’t, then I suggest you seek them out. Because whether you have a ten bottle capacity wine fridge in your kitchen or a 10,000 bottle cellar you call home, these are wines that belong in everyone’s collection.

I’ve assembled my most recent notes on some Vietti wines I have in my cellar. Each is worth seeking out and please keep my scoring system in mind. Where many wine publications have submitted to the idea that great wine should always be 90+ points, I find that system flawed and leaving little room for the definition of great wine. In my book an 87 is a pretty good score and a 90+ is when you start getting into the truly stunning examples.

2008 Vietti Roero Arneis - Shows the color of golden yellow straw with whimsical aromas of spring rain, white flowers and lime. On the palate you find granny smith apple, green melon, and orange rind, all carried by vibrant acidity with a laser-like focus. The finish shows citrus fruit and leaves your palate feeling cleansed and refreshed. (89 pts.)

2009 Vietti Moscato d'Asti Cascinetta Vietti - Very refreshing with a semi-sweet spritz, a bit of yeast on the nose and white stone fruit on the palate. Very popular with the crowd I shared it with. Limited notes. (87 pts.)

2007 Vietti Barbera d'Asti Tre Vigne - The color is a deep reddish purple. On the nose I found red fruit with floral notes, cedar and a slight funk of undergrowth. A lively expression forms on the tongue as its brisk acidity makes the mouth water yet bombards it with sour cherry fruit. Juicy cranberry is on the finish, which stays fresh for what seems like a minute. This is textbook Barbera at a great price. (90 pts.)

2006 Vietti Langhe Nebbiolo Perbacco - Tasted between 3 to 6 hours of decanting. What a treat, with a nose full of black cherry, tobacco, new leather, and a bit of anise and undergrowth. The palate shows sour cherry, earth and citrus-prune on the mid palate. Medium bodied with a fresh but slightly tannic structure, this is followed by a long finish with raspberry fruit. Simply put, this is one of the two best Langhe Nebbiolos that I've ever had. (91 pts.)

1996 Vietti Barolo Rocche - Darker color than expected with a dark ruby red fading only slightly around the edges. The nose on the wine is incredibly expressive with deep black cherry, prunes, dried flowers and beef broth, initially. With more time in the glass, you find crushed, dried leaves and fruit compote. The palate is still masked to a small degree by a wall of tongue coating tannin, but still enjoyable with red fruits, tobacco and iodine. The finish shows bitter cocoa and sour cranberry fruit. (93 pts.)

2000 Vietti Barolo Rocche - Bouquet of fresh cut flowers, tobacco and leather with berry fruit. Full bodied with present but fine tannin and raspberry fruit. A little hot but so enjoyable. Long finish. (92 pts.)

2005 Vietti Barbera d'Alba Vigna Vecchia Scarrone - This bottle was almost like a Zinfandel in its spicy and woodsy notes but with the kick of a Barbera that kept your mouth watering. What more could I ask for in a pairing with Risotto? The nose was a candy shop of dark fruit turning to blueberries and with a super long mouth coating finish. (94 pts.)

If this article has really peaked you interest in this amazing winery, I strongly urge you to check out their website. Vietti is a family run business that can trace its roots back to the 19th century, Their website is an excellent resource for information on the family, it’s wines and even some great Piedmont recipes. Check it out here!