Macari Revisited: The 2010 Cab Franc

By Eric Guido

You have to give credit where credit is due. This is the phrase that comes to mind while tasting the 2010 Macari Cabernet Franc. Why? Well, for one thing, I’ve spent the last few years thinking that Cabernet Franc in the North Fork was a lost cause. I found much more enjoyment from Merlot and various white wines from the region. Still, I work hard to leave all preconceptions behind when tasting wine. And it's a good thing that i did so tonight, because tonight, I was schooled.

Granted, this is Macari, whose praise I have sung in the past, yet never for the Cabernet Franc. Keep in mind, if you’re a fan of mineral and soil laden Chinon, this may not be for you. However, when putting this against some of the most interesting Cab Franc from California, you quickly come to see its qualities and its value.  There are no dank soil or bell pepper notes to be found here; just fruit, character and balance. Which makes me think--it may be time to revisit the North Fork of Long Island again.

What’s more, this is not to be classified as a big wine. Although my tasting note may speak of a velvety palate and almost confectionary bouquet, this wine would still pair beautifully with food due to its balance. What it really comes down to is that Macari really hit it out of the park with the 2010 Cabernet Franc. It’s not easy to impress me with a ripe and forward styled wine, but this really did the trick.

2010 Macari Cabernet Franc - The nose was rich, almost confectionary and wonderfully expressive with spiced black cherry, fig and cola, fresh rosemary and an almost dusty gravel-mineral note, which kept it seated in reality. On the palate, I found this to be velvety smooth, like a dark wave washing over the senses with saturating blackberry fruit, wild herbs and balanced acidity. The finish lasted on the palate with hints of tannin tingling and tugging at the senses. Did this really come from the North Fork--Oh yes it did! (92+ points)

For more information and tasting notes, check out the Marcari website or my post from 2011: Producer Spotlight: Macari Vineyards

Pyramid Valley: In Search of Something More...

A local retailer, showcasing 12 different New Zealand
Sauvignon Blanc, with only one Pinot Noir.

Only a few years ago, when I thought of New Zealand, I thought only of Sauvignon Blanc. This is not rare, as the wines speak for themselves, and the variety outnumbers all others in the region on retailers’ shelves. My interest in these wines spurred me to dig a little deeper, to start learning more about this country’s wines and what made them so special. I quickly realized that there are many varietals that I love being made, and made well, in New Zealand. I was delving into crisp Riesling that rivaled my favorites from Germany, Gewürztraminer of stunning depth and mineral core and, of course, Pinot Noir like I had never seen.

These weren’t the bone-dry pinots of Burgundy that would take a decade to understand, nor were they the overripe fruit bombs of California. These Pinots fell into a category all their own, with perfectly ripe fruit and a juicy, thriving structure that was complemented by mineral, stone, soil—earth. I was at once in love with the style that seemed to walk a middle ground between austerity and hedonism. That was when I found Pyramid Valley Vineyards.

Just when I thought my infatuation could go no further, a force of nature reinvigorated me. Two Pinots that were made under strict natural, biodynamic principals came under my microscope. Two wines made with the least possible amount of human intervention and then bottled with only trace amounts of sulfur. They inspired me to write, “Pyramid Valley: A Genie in a bottle”.

Story over, right? Wrong!

While researching the vineyards of Pyramid Valley and history of its owners/winemakers Mike and Claudia Weersing, I came across a line of wines that truly excited me, The Grower’s Collection.

The Grower's Collection is a series of wines that represents individual growers, varieties and vineyards from New Zealand, all in the fashion of Pyramid Valley Vineyards. It showcases the terroir and varietal expressions of each location with small blocks of fruit and in some cases very rare varieties. As I started to taste through these, the first thing that struck me was how incredibly natural these tasted. The wines are certainly in the style of Pyramid Valley with naturally occurring / stopping fermentations, no filtering and little to no sulfur. But these wines aren't just good; they don't just have wonderful aromatic bouquets and amazing juiciness on the palate. These wines actually taste--healthy. They seem to somehow nurture you, like juice from some unknown fruit that has just been discovered.

I know this may sound a little over the top, but I can think of no better way to explain them. The best recommendation I can make is to taste them for yourself.

The Cab Franc, my tasting note could
have just read, "God, I love this wine"

2009 Pyramid Valley Cabernet Franc Growers Collection Howell Family Vineyard - The nose was deep, rich and vibrant with sweet cherry, cinnamon spice, wild herbs and stony minerals providing an earthy canvas to it all. On the palate, it was medium-bodied, juicy and fresh with sweet, bright cherry, citrus peel, exotic spice and a core of brisk acidity. Hints of tannin lingered on the palate, reminding me that this is wine and more than just a delicious beverage. It was a highly enjoyable Cab Franc that I will look for going forward. (92 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Pyramid Valley Pinot Noir Growers Collection Cowley Family Vineyard - The color in the glass was a bit cloudy with a light ruby red hue. The nose was seductive yet earthy and sweet, showing intense cherry preserve, a whiff of crushed stone, hints of bell pepper, and dry dusty soil. On the palate, ripe cherry was met by minty herbal tones, with silky textures perfectly contrasted by a hint of bitter tannin. The finish remained fresh and lively, showing ground pepper, spice and red berries.

Upon first opening, I was worried that this wine had been exposed to excessive heat. It was almost impenetrable, and so I put it aside. I'm glad I did so, because within two hours it came to life, softened and evolved, turning into what can only be described as a gorgeous pinot rooted in the earth. What's more; its cherry component was beautiful, seeming almost impossibly natural. It's a lovely wine. (91 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

Another spectacular wine, truly
unique and inspired winemaking.

2007 Pyramid Valley Sémillon Growers Collection Hille Vineyard - The nose was truly fascinating and kept me coming back to the glass again and again with an intense floral bouquet, showing honey, peach, almond paste, salty minerals and bell pepper. Yet somehow, all of this made me think of spring, sitting in a flower garden with soil stained hands. On the palate, it was fresh and electric upon entry with notes of peach, inner florals, and spice. A lull followed on the mid-palate, but was quickly replaced by a pop of tart lime-kiwi acidity, which kept this interesting throughout. It was impeccably balanced and wonderfully unique, a wine that I will look for again. (91 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2010 Pyramid Valley Savagnin Rose Growers Collection Twin Valleys Vineyard - The extroverted nose showed a bouquet of pineapple, melon, honeycomb, and spice with hints of floral funk and undergrowth. On the palate it was silky smooth with sweet, spicy peach. It showed great presence and perfect balance followed by a hint of citrus, which lasted through the long, saturating finish that seemed to cling to the palate like fruit nectar. (89 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

The Italian Bordeaux: San Leonardo

In northeastern Italy you will find the region of Trentino. It’s a beautiful, mountainous region that is well known for its vibrant, mineral-laden white wines. However, what many people don’t know is that one of the great examples of an Italian take on the Bordeaux blend is made in Trentino. When we think of Bordeaux varieties grown in Italy, the first place that comes to mind is Bolgheri, in Tuscany. Tenuta San Guido’s Sassicaia has been the Italian standard bearer of the Bordeaux blend for decades, and its cost reflects its popularity, with new releases costing upwards of $160 a bottle. But what if you could buy a wine of equal pedigree with a truly unique, Italian stamp on the Bordeaux blend for a third of that price? That’s where Trentino and Tenuta San Loenardo comes in.

Owned since 1784 by the noble Guerrieri Gonzaga family, Tenuta San Leonardo has a storied past that goes back over 1500 years. However, it wasn’t until the early ‘80s that the Marquis Carlo Guerrieri Gonzaga decided to create a wine styled after the wines of the Haut Médoc, in Bordeaux.

It was at this time that local varietals were replaced by Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. The 740-acre estate, surrounded by mountains, dedicates 50 acres to vines in its well-drained soil of chalk, clay and sandy sediments. The climate can be unpredictable, and its frequent rain around harvest time is challenging; yet through vigorous vineyard management and grape selection, Tenuta San Leonardo continues to produce wines of prestige that can live for decades in your cellar.

The wines see six months in 60-hectolitre Slavonian oak and then into small French oak (some new and some once or twice used) for 24 months. This is followed by a year of resting in bottle before release. When the wines first hit the market, they can be difficult to understand, with their notes of tart berries and bell pepper seeming lean against the wine’s angular tannins. However, through aging, San Leonardo begins to truly shine. A recent vertical going back almost twenty years showed that these wines are truly gems. They are intense and focused with palate-coating fruit, earth and herbs, brisk acidity and remarkable length.

This is not the Bordeaux blend that you’ll find in today’s Bordeaux, California, or Tuscany. This is what it could be if fruit extract wasn’t the primary focus of so much winemaking today. And although it’s not for everyone, this wine is certainly worth trying, because it’s a pure expression of terroir, and it may be the exact thing that you’re craving. In this taster’s opinion, San Leonardo is one of the best Bordeaux blends being made today.

On to the notes:

1993 Tenuta San Leonardo Vallagarina IGT – The nose showed vibrant red currants, chalky minerals, green leaves, mint and a hint of spice. On the palate, it started bright and exciting with zippy acidity yet balanced against velvety textures with red berries, earth and a hint of green pepper. The finish lingered with greenery and crushed wild berries. (94 points)

1995 Tenuta San Leonardo Vallagarina IGT – The nose showed red berries, expressive dried flowers, red licorice, brown butter and earthy minerals. On the palate, it was lean yet focused with sour, tart red berries, mineral salinity and herbs. The finish lingered and slowly melted from the palate. (92 points)

1996 Tenuta San Leonardo Vallagarina IGT – The nose showed black currant, herbs, earth, chalk and minerals with intense exotic spices. On the palate, it was intense and focused with a rush of velvety texture that mellowed into sweet dark fruits and a contrast of mineral salinity. The finish lingered with notes of tea leaves, green pepper and herbs. (95 points)

1997 Tenuta San Leonardo Vallagarina IGT – The nose was dark and brooding, showing fig, black pepper and green leaves, with dark and sensuous spicy undertones. On the palate it was soft and inviting with medicinal herbs and red berries, green pepper and inner aromatic spices. The finish slowly faded with drier red fruits and herbs. (90 points)

1999 Tenuta San Leonardo Vallagarina IGT – The nose showed dark ripe berries, cherries, browned butter, dark chocolate, and a hint of pepper. On the palate, it was intense with mouth-coating black fruits that turned savory and earthy yet maintained its full body and rich fruit. Pepper and red berries lasted through the medium-long finish. (92 points)

2001 Tenuta San Leonardo Vallagarina IGT – The nose showed black cherries with chestnut, undergrowth, animal musk and a bit of greenness which did not detract but instead added an earthy element to the aromatics. One the palate, it presented a medium-bodied wine with perfect balance as more cherries, cranberries and cocoa showed through. The finish was finessed with red fruit and left the palate refreshed. I would recommend this wine to anyone looking to explore northern Italy and the red wines it is capable of producing. (92 points)

2003 Tenuta San Leonardo Vallagarina IGT – The nose showed red and black, slightly roasted fruits, a note like childhood vitamins, dark chocolate and buttery crust. On the palate, it was lean yet fresh with sour red berries and hints of herbs. The finish was staying with red berries yet tart. (89 points)

2004 Tenuta San Leonardo Vallagarina IGT – The nose showed a slight sheen of oak with ripe wild berries, dark chocolate, hints of manure and pepper. On the palate, it was intense with tart red berries, very dark chocolate, herbs and saline minerals. Mixed berries and pepper lasted through the long finish. The ’04 is still a baby and may one day rival the ’96. (94 points)

2005 Tenuta San Leonardo Vallagarina IGT – The nose showed ripe dark fruits and sweet floral notes. On the palate, it showed brisk acidity lending a juicy component to its flavors of tart mixed berries and wild herbs. The finish showed hints of green with peppery notes. (91 points)

2006 Tenuta San Leonardo Vallagarina IGT – The nose showed lean raspberry, mountain herbs and hints of manure. On the palate, I found lean red fruits, savory notes and rough tannin that stayed through the palate-coating finish. It’s an excellent example of cool-weather Cabernet and worth trying. (92 points)

Find San Leonardo on: Wine-Searcher!

Visit San Leonardo's highly informative website: San Leonardo

Producer Spotlight: Macari Vineyards

North Fork, Long Island

The most amazing thing about Macari Vineyards isn’t the gorgeous tasting room, outfitted from wall to wall with art, gifts and Macari wines, or the large dining area that can easily double as a banquet hall. It isn’t just the size of the vineyards that stretched from Route 48 to the Long Island Sound. And It isn’t just one wine or even a few. The most amazing thing about Macari Vineyards is that they can consistently produce such a large number of wines at such a highly level of quality. Everything else is just icing on the cake. Tasting at Macari provided taste after taste in a colidoscope of different varietals and styles that were all highly enjoyable. There is absolutly something for everyone at Macari.

Macari Vineyards, established in 1995, comprises of 180 acres, containing vineyards, animals, produce, a large green house and even their own compost production area. They pride themselves on practicing sustainable agriculture and employing biodynamic principals. In fact, pride was something that radiated from each of the staff I encountered at the tasting room. And what a tasting room it was. Macari allows visitors to sample the wines, relax with a view of the vineyards and enjoy a selection of cheeses or other edibles. It was odd for me to be visiting them on a quiet rainy April afternoon because I had a tremendous urge to be there when their season was in full swing, like it is now.

On to the Wines...

2007 Macari Chardonnay Estate ($19) – On the nose, this was almost meaty with floral notes and herbs. The palate was structured with good acidity and great balance. (89 points)

2007 Macari Chardonnay Reserve ($23) – This was big and rich on the nose but kept in check with earthy notes followed by apricot and stone. On the palate, it was full-bodied and showed some of the oak on the finish. (89 points)

2009 Macari Sauvignon Blanc "Katherine's Field" ($23) – The nose showed tropical fruits, sour citrus, chalky minerals and that textbook Sauvignon Blanc “cat piss” (I mean that in the best way). On the palate, it showed sour citrus, minerals and a nice concentration of fruit. It finished with a sour note. This wine was very enjoyable. (91 points)

2010 Macari Sauvignon Blanc "Katherine's Field" ($23) – On the nose, I found ripe tropical fruits, citrus and herbs. On the palates, it had a focused concentration of ripe citrus fruits and lots of brisk acidity to keep it fresh and very pleasant. The sour patch finish was long, long, long. This was one of my top 10 wines from my Long Island article on Snooth. (92 points)

2009 Macari Riesling ($30) (Sourced from the finger lakes) – On the nose, I found citrus with a spritz of minerally lime. The palate tasted like a citrus explosion with tart lemon and stone. The finish was long with sour patch and herbs. This is a New York Riesling made from fruit sourced at the Finger Lakes. (88 points)

2010 Macari Riesling ($30) (Sourced from the finger lakes) – The nose showed fresh floral notes and citrus. On the palate, I found hints of butter and lemon. It was softer and sweeter that the 2009 but well structured, as lime and herbs took me through the finish. (89 points)

2010 Macari “Early wine” ($17) (100% Chardonnay) – The nose was floral and fresh with white fruits and lime. It was pleasantly fruity and balanced on the palate with a finish that hinted at this wine’s tiny amount of residual sugar. This would make for a great summer sipper. (88 points)

(NV) Macari Merlot Collina 48 Merlot ($13) – The nose showed red berries, earth and chalk dust. On the palate, this showed a full body, yet it was fresh and focused with red berries, herbs and cedar. (89 points)

(NV) Macari Sette ($19) – The nose showed lots of blackberry. On the palate, I found wild berries and spice. The finish was dry and showed sour berry fruit. (87 points)

2008 Macari Dos Aguas ($27) – The nose showed sweet blue and black berries with spice. It was full-bodied and fruity on the palate. (87 points)

2008 Macari Cabernet Franc ($35) – The nose showed dark berries, spice and cedar. On the palate, I found red fruits and spice with a firm yet juicy structure; a bit vegetal but rich enough to hold its own. (89 points)

2005 Macari Merlot Reserve ($36) – On the nose, I found black cherry, sweet herbal tea, undergrowth and lots of earth. On the palate, this showed a broad full body with masses of ripe berries and spice. The finish was long and fruity. This wine really stood out from the lineup and is further proof that holding North Fork Merlot for later release turns out truly stunning results. This was one of my top 10 wines from my Long Island article on Snooth. (92 points)

2007 Macari "Bergen Road" ($46) – The nose was big and rich with crushed wild berries and hints of vanilla. On the palate, it was luxurious with fresh cherries and spice that filled the senses. The finish was long with cherry and hints of wood. (89 points)

2008 Macari Block E ($40) (Ice wine, 69% Viogier, 31% Pinot Gris) – The nose showed tropical fruits, herbs, nuts and butter. On the palate, it was rich and sweet but ultra fresh and floral with roast nuts, orange peel and spices. The finish lasted over a minute. (91 points)

To visit or purchase Macari wines, check out their website at: Macari Vineyards!

Find Macari wines on: Wine-Searcher!

My trip to the North Fork Long Island, for Snooth, was an eye opening event. Recent vintages have shown what the Long Island wine industry is truly capable of. To read more about recent vintages and the top 10 wines of my tasting, visit Long Island Wines: 10 top picks from the North Fork.

Food and Wine in December

December tends to be my busiest time of year and usually keeps me away from tasting as much as I’d like. Luckily, I was still able to find a few diamonds in the rough. Through December, I was able to taste an amazing white from Piedmont that anyone who loves white wine should know about, some great vintage Vin Santo that’s available and affordable, and a truly exciting yet stylish Cab Franc from Long Island.

However, December wasn’t all about wine. What’s Cookin’ also released one of my newest articles “Eric Guido’s Eggplant Parmigiana” a recipe that comes right from my heart. This is serious Italian American homestyle cooking that was taught to me by my grandmother and hardly changed by my trained hand. Why mess with perfection?

Eric Guido's Eggplant Parmigiana

If you were to ask any of my friends or clients about my specialty, they would quickly inform you that it’s risotto. However, it wasn’t always so. Long before my professional career and formal training, I was a cook that depended on what I learned as a child. The rich Italian-American cooking of my family was my strong suit and, more than anything else, it was my grandmother’s Eggplant Parmigiana... (For the full article and recipe, visit: What's Cookin

On to the wines:

Arneis is a white grape indigenous to Piedmont, Italy. Many bottles of Arneis are easily forgettable, but in the hands of some producers (Bruno Giacosa & Vietti come to mind), they are gorgeous, showing white flowers and citrus fruits, with a mix of richness and finesse on the palate. This one is the best I’ve tasted to date:

2009 Bruno Giacosa Roero Arneis - On the nose, I found white flowers and citrus zest with hints of honey and slight toastiness. The palate was crisp and fresh yet still showed weight with flavors of sweet peach, apricots and cream. The finish was fresh and floral. This may be the best Arneis I’ve ever had. (91 Points)

Find it on Wine-Searcher!

The North Fork of Long Island continues to push its way into the world of fine wine but it’s an uphill battle. Nonetheless, many quality producers are determined to show what the North Fork is capable of (Shinn and Paumanok come to mind). The bottle below, from Vineyard 48, was thoroughly enjoyable. Think an official visit to the North Fork is in order for later this year.

2007 Vineyard 48 Cabernet Franc Reserve - The nose showed licorice and cherry liquor with a hint of musky animal fur and new oak. On the palate, I found strawberry fruit, milk chocolate and sweet vanilla on a full bodied frame. The finish was long and fresh with red fruits. This was very enjoyable and with enough character to cut through the rich fruit. (90 Points)

For more information, visit: Vineyard 48

Vin Santo is not a wine you see at many tastings and events these days. The fact is, dessert wines fell out of style a while back and it’s because of this that you don’t see quality Vin Santo adorning the shelves of your trusted wine merchant. However, this almost forgotten style, in the United States, is still the pride of many Tuscan winemakers portfolios. I was lucky enough to taste a ’90 Vin Santo about two years ago and it changed the way I thought about this wine. So it might be sweet… but it also possesses depths of flavors and nuances unheard of in dry wines. I highly recommend that my readers try a good aged Vin Santo, and the one below would be a great place to start.

1994 Isole e Olena Vin Santo del Chianti Classico - Roasted almond, varnish, orange peel, chestnut and smoke filled out the nose of this beautiful Vin Santo. The palate was perfectly resolved, yet lively, with acidity and sweet caramel followed by roasting nuts and a hint of tropical fruit. The finish was over a minute long with vibrant acidity, showing nuts and orange that faded into warm wood tones. (92 Points)

I found this great bottle at: Grapes: The Wine Company