Was It Worth All The Hype? A 2005 Bordeaux Retrospective

It’s funny how things can come full circle. I clearly remember the release of 2005 Bordeaux and all the hype surrounding it. I remember Robert Parker raving about the strength of the vintage and how it would go down in history as one of the greatest that Bordeaux had ever seen.

www.winespectator.com

I also recall the Wine Spectator toning in, with James Suckling confirming what we had all been told, and I clearly remember buying that issue off of a newsstand.

I looked at the wines—I didn’t have the option to taste them—and decided not to pull the trigger. Even with a daughter that was born in 2005 (i.e. a great birth year wine option). In the end, it was fear. Fear that I was buying in to the “Hype Machine” of wine critics, fear that I would never enjoy these wines, and fear that they would not appreciate in value, even though all the pros swore they would.

And so, in the end, I did not buy.

Little did I know that, seven years later, I would have a chance to taste so many of these from a perfectly-stored collection. A collection that was bought en premier and stored perfectly up until the very night that they were uncorked and poured for me. Now I look back and feel a great deal of remorse. It was a lesson learned; but even today, as I taste through them, I’m contemplating—should I buy 2005 Bordeaux?

The fact is that Bordeaux as a “brand” is not what it used to be. The escalating prices of wines upon release have pushed many fans and collectors out of the market. This is not because of the great vintages, but because of the ones that were simply good or very good, that stayed at their elevated price points. However, there is another reason as well, and that is how many supposedly “GREAT” vintages have followed since 2005. It’s hard for the average consumer to buy a wine based on what it may one day become, as most Bordeaux isn’t ready to drink upon release.

However, at this time, I can confidently say that 2005 was a great vintage in Bordeaux. At some Chateau, it was probably the best they have ever produced. Even with the 2009s and 2010s being hyped and pushed upon us day after day, 2005 is where my money will likely be spent.

Why? Because it truly is classic.

For the full article, 27 tasting notes and many more photos, visit: The Cellar Table

Snooth PVA: A World of Wine In N.Y.C.

By Eric Guido

I have just returned from a rollercoaster ride of a tasting weekend. The Snooth People’s Voice Wine Awards managed to take me from Italy, to Spain, to Austria, to Brazil and even South Africa. It was a massive event with focus group tastings, guest speakers, cooking demos, food & wine pairings and a group of some of the best wine bloggers from around the country. It will take many days to sort through the massive amount of pictures, tasting notes and overall impressions that I collected over the last few days. All of those impressions will find their way into these pages.

However, until that time, I thought it would be great to go over a few of the highlights of my weekend. In the world of wine tasting, you always have the ones you love, the ones you like and the ones that fall flat, but I can tell you that this weekend opened my eyes to large number of excellent wines. What’s more, the people that made it happen, the bloggers that shared my experience (which you should be following, see below), and the foods—oh the food. So I’ve attempted to put something of a scrapbook together for you here. Enjoy.

The Aurora Carnaval Moscato Rose

We started early Saturday with the wines of Brasil. My overall impression of this up-and-coming region was good, however the tasting was marked by an unusually large amount of corked bottles. I certainly enjoyed a number of the red wines, but the show stealer (and great for the upcoming spring) was the NV Aurora Carnaval Moscato Rosé, a spicy floral and fruity rosé with soothing bubbles, ripe fruits and spicy inner floral tones on the palate. At $14.99, this would be a great way to sip through your summer BBQs.

Costilla al Vino Tinto
Ribera del Duero braised short ribs

With Brazil behind us, we made our way to Salinas Restaurant for a tasting of wines from Ribera Del Duero. This was an eye-opening tasting for me, as I admittedly have not spent enough time exploring this region of Spain. The wines were ripe and juicy, but not over the top. They were great with food, yet could easily be sipped for your enjoyment, and I can’t wait to compile my notes and present them.

Chef Luis Bollo

Then there was the food. Salinas Restaurant presented us with a four-course meal prepared by Chef Luis Bollo. It was fantastic with the warm, soothing Caldo de Temporada (Galician style Pumpkin-Chicken soup) and the Costilla al Vino Tinto (Ribera del Duero braised short ribs). The setting was comfortable, yet uplifting, with skylights and a warming fireplace. I can’t wait to go back and spend some time perusing the menu.

The afternoon found us tasting through the white wines of Italy, a region that I have the most experience with. However, on this day, nothing truly wowed me from this lineup of wines. No matter, because right afterwards we were brought to Snooth’s Grand Tasting, featuring the finalists from the People’s Voice Wine Awards. It was amazing with some of the best wines from around the world.

Chipotle-Rubbed Swordfish
with a Papaya-Fennel Slaw

Many of my favorite wines were present along with cuisine from a number of local and, not so local, chefs. We even enjoyed a cooking demo from Chefs Vidyadhara Shetty and Keith Griffin of the Cayman Islands, preparing a Chipotle-Rubbed Swordfish with a Papaya-Fennel Slaw. The crowd was massive and there was a feel-good aura to the entire event, which I seldom find at tastings.

Some of the highlights from my evening included a great performance from the Australian wines of Yalumba, a Masciarelli Merlot, and the Villa Ghemme Montepulciano d’Abbruzo, as well as the young yet spellbinding ’09 Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero. My detailed notes will follow in the weeks to come.

At this point, you’d think there’s nothing much to top what we had already tasted, but you’d be wrong.

Aldo Sohm talks rocks, dirt
and Gruner Veltliner.

With Sunday came an early morning tasting of the wines of Austria. The tasting was magnificent with a great presentation Aldo Sohm, on terroir, and so many stunning wines that I was floored. As I continued to work through them, it seemed as if they just kept getting better and better. My experience with Austrian wine has been limited, and this tasting left me as a fan, with a new love in life, Gruner Veltliner. One of the highlights of this tasting was the 2011 Schloss Gobelsburg Grüner Veltliner Lamm # 1, a completely seductive white wine that was stunning for it’s richness, yet balanced and laced with minerals and tart citrus. It’s a wine that will find its way into my cellar.

Smoked Ostrich

Lunch brought us to my alma mater, The Institute of Culinary Education, for a paring of South African food and wine. One of the highlights of this tasting was to find the 2009 Glenelly Lady May in the lineup, a wine that I became familiar with from a tasting late last year. Different vintage, but same amazing performance. The Lady May is a Bordeaux blend from South Africa that truly proves that the possibilities are endless in this region. It’s a wine that could be decanted and enjoyed now, or better yet, placed in the cellar for years.

With only a few hours left to our day, we made our way to a tasting of the wines of Rioja. It’s amazing to me that I don’t have more of these wines in my cellar, because each time I have a chance to taste both young and aged Rioja, I swoon over them. It’s a region of remarkable beauty and ancient cellars that are filled to the brim with treasures waiting to be released.

The '85 Conde de Valdemar Gran
Reserva.  A perfectly aged bottle.

This tasting put a number of vintages in front of us, but what was truly stunning were the wines from 1994 and 1985. They were so intense, still fruity and young, yet they showed all the depth of aged wine, along with price tags that are surprisingly easy to swallow. Our last wine of the weekend, the 1985 Conde de Valdemar Gran Reserva, was so beautiful that I couldn’t help myself from drinking it down—and going for a second glass.

What a weekend! But that’s not all; the people that I shared it with were such a big part of the experience. I had the honor of tasting with, and have been humbled by, some of the most talented and interesting wine writers and artists. Their links are all below, and I urge you to check them out. It’s amazing what resources are out there for wine and food lovers; you just need to look.

The Wine Hub: Wine Exploration Starts Here
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Wine Julia - A focus on Oregon wine & so much more
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Wine Harlots - On wine and all things that inspirer her
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Richard Jennings on Wine - A truly epic wine taster and writer
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Seema Gunda of the Serious Eats Amateur Taste-Along.
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Wine Folly - Wine tips, maps and tools.  An amazing resource for wine lovers.
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Wine by Benito - Food, wine and great perspectives, a blog after my own heart.
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Reverse Wine Snob - Down to earth, looking for great wines that are good values.
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Makers Table - Food, Wine and the pleasures of the table.
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Brunello Bob - Love Sangiovese? This is the blog for you.
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Vineyard Adventures - Wine, food, Travel and Tours.  A beautiful site to dig into.
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Vines Sleuth - "the wine blog for casual wine drinkers" but so much more.
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Vindugle - Wine Education and Consulting
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Wannabe Wino - Totally down to earth with a great selection of reviews
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Hip Tastes - A totally hip website about wine, food, travel and music, as well as a published wine 
guide.
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Vine Spot - appreciation, education and the enjoyment of wine.
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Avvinare - An amazing, experienced palate with perspectives on food and wine. 
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Jameson Fink - Wine without worry

Pairing Food and Wine on Snooth

With how busy this year has been, I just realized that I never introduced one of my newest projects with Snooth Media. As of the beginning of this year, I moved on from being a Snooth contributor, to now being a full fledge freelance writer with a regular column on food and wine pairings as well as inclusion in Snooth’s new digital magazine. It’s been a good run and it just keeps on getting better.

This has been a great opportunity for me, to both expand my contacts and have access to a lot more wine to taste. As a result, I’m able to bring my readers an expanded selection of reviews with each update. And there’s even more to come. With an entire year of assignments ahead of me, you can expect to see food and wine pairing articles on pairing Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Merlot, Spanish and Portuguese wines and a big project on Northern Italian reds.

Below, I’ve listed a number of articles that have already been published this year. As for The V.I.P. Table, nothing has changed; you can expect me to continue delivering my take on the world of wine. If there’s anything you’d like to see or a way you think I can improve this site, please feel free to contact me.

Thanks again, and enjoy.

Pairing Riesling

I find it funny that Riesling is always hailed as one of the greatest (if the not the greatest) white wine varieties and yet so few people have it in their cellars or use it at the dinner table. Honestly, it’s a shame. The fact is, Riesling is one of the best food-combining wines. Not just because of its mouthwatering acidity or intense fruit, but because it comes in so many varying degrees of sweetness that you can almost always find a Riesling that will go with your meal... Click here to read more!

Pairing Rose

The wine world is suddenly catching on; there’s nothing wrong with drinking rosé. In my time, I’ve heard people talk down rosé more than any other style of wine. Why? Some will say it was the rise of White Zinfandel that forever left a mark on rosé. People looked at a pink, sparkling glass and thought of grandma’s sweet summer wine or the cheap headache-inducing stuff they were poured at a wedding. Honestly, I don’t think this is the only reason. I believe that in some regions (especially New World), rosé has been the red-headed stepchild of many winemakers. Recently, we are seeing a significant rise in quality across the board... Click here to read more!


Pairing Sauvignon Blanc

Spring is here with summer around the corner, and although I will miss the big, structured red wines that I love so much, this time of year has me longing for Sauvignon Blanc... Click here to read more!



Pairing with Grenache

I often think of Grenache as an easy pleaser. If I’m on the way out the door to go to a party or need to pull that bottle for a friend who has asked for something that’s sure to impress, I almost always go with Grenache. Why? Because the majority of Grenache is fun to drink and easy to understand... Click here to read more!


Pairing Meritage and Bordeaux style wines

For many people, wine appreciation, collecting and drinking begins and ends with Bordeaux. You may not even realize it, but it is primarily two grapes that make up the lion's share of the Bordeaux blend, namely Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with Cabernet Franc trailing as a close third. When dining at the average restaurant that serves wine by the glass, chances are there will always be a Cabernet Sauvignon, and there will likely be a Merlot on the list as well... Click here to read more!


Pairing White Rhone Wines With Food

When most people think of the Northern Rhône, they don't think of white wine. It's really no surprise that Viognier (one of the principal white grapes of the region) had nearly gone extinct only fifty years ago, with just eight acres planted across the entire region. Now, Viognier, as well as Marsanne and Roussanne, have spread across the world. Viognier, being the most popular of these varietals, has found success in South America, Australia, California and even Virginia. Frankly, we're lucky to have Viognier in our arsenal of food-friendly wines because its versatility allows it to pair well with some of the more difficult wine-pairing cuisines around the world... Click here to read more!


Sangiovese Food and Wine Pairings

Sangiovese is easily one of my favorite wines to pair with food. It’s versatile, with many different interpretations that open up numerous opportunities for pairings. I would place Sangiovese in my top five food-friendly wines, with many examples simply needing food to shine. I can’t tell you how many times the comment, “this needs food,” has been made when discussing Chianti, Brunello or Vino Nobile... Click here to read more!


Pairing Syrah From Around The World

Whether it is classic reds from the Northern-Rhône, rich and powerful Aussie Shiraz or the dark and sultry Californian expression of the Rhone Rangers, Syrah is the underdog that slowly continues to gain ground. The interesting Syrah identity crisis is the only thing holding it back from worldwide renown. For example, the average person doesn’t know that Syrah is the grape behind Crozes Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie and the alias “Shiraz” has become more synonymous with Australia than an actual grape varietal... Click here to read more!

The Italian Bordeaux: San Leonardo

In northeastern Italy you will find the region of Trentino. It’s a beautiful, mountainous region that is well known for its vibrant, mineral-laden white wines. However, what many people don’t know is that one of the great examples of an Italian take on the Bordeaux blend is made in Trentino. When we think of Bordeaux varieties grown in Italy, the first place that comes to mind is Bolgheri, in Tuscany. Tenuta San Guido’s Sassicaia has been the Italian standard bearer of the Bordeaux blend for decades, and its cost reflects its popularity, with new releases costing upwards of $160 a bottle. But what if you could buy a wine of equal pedigree with a truly unique, Italian stamp on the Bordeaux blend for a third of that price? That’s where Trentino and Tenuta San Loenardo comes in.

Owned since 1784 by the noble Guerrieri Gonzaga family, Tenuta San Leonardo has a storied past that goes back over 1500 years. However, it wasn’t until the early ‘80s that the Marquis Carlo Guerrieri Gonzaga decided to create a wine styled after the wines of the Haut Médoc, in Bordeaux.

It was at this time that local varietals were replaced by Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. The 740-acre estate, surrounded by mountains, dedicates 50 acres to vines in its well-drained soil of chalk, clay and sandy sediments. The climate can be unpredictable, and its frequent rain around harvest time is challenging; yet through vigorous vineyard management and grape selection, Tenuta San Leonardo continues to produce wines of prestige that can live for decades in your cellar.

The wines see six months in 60-hectolitre Slavonian oak and then into small French oak (some new and some once or twice used) for 24 months. This is followed by a year of resting in bottle before release. When the wines first hit the market, they can be difficult to understand, with their notes of tart berries and bell pepper seeming lean against the wine’s angular tannins. However, through aging, San Leonardo begins to truly shine. A recent vertical going back almost twenty years showed that these wines are truly gems. They are intense and focused with palate-coating fruit, earth and herbs, brisk acidity and remarkable length.

This is not the Bordeaux blend that you’ll find in today’s Bordeaux, California, or Tuscany. This is what it could be if fruit extract wasn’t the primary focus of so much winemaking today. And although it’s not for everyone, this wine is certainly worth trying, because it’s a pure expression of terroir, and it may be the exact thing that you’re craving. In this taster’s opinion, San Leonardo is one of the best Bordeaux blends being made today.

On to the notes:

1993 Tenuta San Leonardo Vallagarina IGT – The nose showed vibrant red currants, chalky minerals, green leaves, mint and a hint of spice. On the palate, it started bright and exciting with zippy acidity yet balanced against velvety textures with red berries, earth and a hint of green pepper. The finish lingered with greenery and crushed wild berries. (94 points)

1995 Tenuta San Leonardo Vallagarina IGT – The nose showed red berries, expressive dried flowers, red licorice, brown butter and earthy minerals. On the palate, it was lean yet focused with sour, tart red berries, mineral salinity and herbs. The finish lingered and slowly melted from the palate. (92 points)

1996 Tenuta San Leonardo Vallagarina IGT – The nose showed black currant, herbs, earth, chalk and minerals with intense exotic spices. On the palate, it was intense and focused with a rush of velvety texture that mellowed into sweet dark fruits and a contrast of mineral salinity. The finish lingered with notes of tea leaves, green pepper and herbs. (95 points)

1997 Tenuta San Leonardo Vallagarina IGT – The nose was dark and brooding, showing fig, black pepper and green leaves, with dark and sensuous spicy undertones. On the palate it was soft and inviting with medicinal herbs and red berries, green pepper and inner aromatic spices. The finish slowly faded with drier red fruits and herbs. (90 points)

1999 Tenuta San Leonardo Vallagarina IGT – The nose showed dark ripe berries, cherries, browned butter, dark chocolate, and a hint of pepper. On the palate, it was intense with mouth-coating black fruits that turned savory and earthy yet maintained its full body and rich fruit. Pepper and red berries lasted through the medium-long finish. (92 points)

2001 Tenuta San Leonardo Vallagarina IGT – The nose showed black cherries with chestnut, undergrowth, animal musk and a bit of greenness which did not detract but instead added an earthy element to the aromatics. One the palate, it presented a medium-bodied wine with perfect balance as more cherries, cranberries and cocoa showed through. The finish was finessed with red fruit and left the palate refreshed. I would recommend this wine to anyone looking to explore northern Italy and the red wines it is capable of producing. (92 points)

2003 Tenuta San Leonardo Vallagarina IGT – The nose showed red and black, slightly roasted fruits, a note like childhood vitamins, dark chocolate and buttery crust. On the palate, it was lean yet fresh with sour red berries and hints of herbs. The finish was staying with red berries yet tart. (89 points)

2004 Tenuta San Leonardo Vallagarina IGT – The nose showed a slight sheen of oak with ripe wild berries, dark chocolate, hints of manure and pepper. On the palate, it was intense with tart red berries, very dark chocolate, herbs and saline minerals. Mixed berries and pepper lasted through the long finish. The ’04 is still a baby and may one day rival the ’96. (94 points)

2005 Tenuta San Leonardo Vallagarina IGT – The nose showed ripe dark fruits and sweet floral notes. On the palate, it showed brisk acidity lending a juicy component to its flavors of tart mixed berries and wild herbs. The finish showed hints of green with peppery notes. (91 points)

2006 Tenuta San Leonardo Vallagarina IGT – The nose showed lean raspberry, mountain herbs and hints of manure. On the palate, I found lean red fruits, savory notes and rough tannin that stayed through the palate-coating finish. It’s an excellent example of cool-weather Cabernet and worth trying. (92 points)

Find San Leonardo on: Wine-Searcher!

Visit San Leonardo's highly informative website: San Leonardo

Food, Wine, Restaurants--Oh My!

My take on Pizzoccheri Valtellinesi

The holidays are now in full swing and with it, comes all the work involved in the wine and food industry.  Today, I wanted to take a moment to post some links to my recent work off The V.I.P. Table, as well as a new page dedicated to Barolo, and a link to a new Blog that was created by a fellow Barolo lover who has great insights on some of the best Baroli coming out of Piedmont.

A Passion for the Valtellina
Passion is the key to great food. I don’t care whether you spent eight months in a diploma program or two years at the C.I.A., the best food comes from chefs who possess passion. I’ve worked alongside some highly trained individuals who will never do anything more than rehash the same repertoire throughout their entire careers. Why? Because they lack passion. A great chef is not built in school or the restaurant kitchen, he is made through decades of experiences... Keep reading at What's Cookin!

Masi Amarone and Risotto
I was recently on vacation with my wife. Together we sat under the stars, a small fire pit going in front of us and a glass of Amarone in hand. It was a wonderful moment in time that two working parents seldom get to enjoy. I spoke in utter contentment, “The stars are so beautiful.” My wife looked at me, and I looked at her, and she said, “I love… Amarone... Keep reading at Snooth!

Older Vintage Wine and Cellaring
I’m often asked, “Why should I cellar wine?” Now, we’re not talking about a well-stocked shelf of bottles to pull from or a Eurocave filled with your favorite juice. We’re talking about a wine cellar filled with vintages that are left to sit for years or decades in perfect, cool, moist, dark, vibration-free harmony. The answer is simple to me... Keep reading at Snooth!

The Barolo Pages
From the hills of the Langhe in Piedmont, Italy. Barolo truly is the King of Wines and the Wine of Kings. It is made from the Nebbiolo grape, which is also used to make Barbaresco, Gattinare and Ghemme in Piedmont, as well as in the Valtellina and Franciacorta regions of Lombardy. Often compared to red Burgundy and capable of aging for decades, its layered and deeply fragrant aromas make Barolo a wine that can be dwelled upon for hours... Keep reading at The Barolo Pages!

Nebbiolo Junkie
Nicolai Soegaard is a fellow Barolo enthusiast, whose insights and tastings, I've followed for many years now. Living in Copenhagen, Denmark and regularly traveling to Piedmont for tastings.  Whether it's food or wine, Nicolai constantly has something new and interesting to share with fellow Nebbiolo lovers. Hence his new blog... Nebbiolo Junkie

A Chile Revelation

Loving and collecting wine is like anything else in the world; something started you on the path. Maybe it was that ’96 Barolo after an intense Saturday dinner service, a special wine that a friend poured for you at an event, or a vacation you took in a wine region. No matter what the reason is, it left a mark on you and part of the reason you keep going is to try and recapture that moment. However, like anything else, those special moments don’t happen too often. In the end, you can find yourself going months without being surprised by a new wine or years without being impressed with a different region. 

However, once in a blue moon, those moments happen; and last night, I had one with the wines of Chile.

I’d say the most amazing part of this revelation was when I looked at the cost of my highest scoring bottles, which were both under $20. To have wine this good, at this price point; I think I’m in love.

One is a Cabernet of exceptional character and quality that can be enjoyed now, yet still has the ability to age. The other is made from Carmenere. “Carmen-what,” you say? Carmenere was once nothing more than a blending grape for Bordeaux that many believe had seen its last days; however, today it has found a new home in Chile and is thriving. The Terra Noble Carmenere Gran Reserva was like a Ballerina; all muscle and intensity, yet it glided effortlessly across the dance floor… err… palate.

On to the notes:

2009 Terra Noble Carmenere Gran Reserva – This wine was a showstopper as its expressive nose showed a balanced mix of red and black berries, pretty floral notes with a bit of stemy funk, and mocha and oak, which followed close behind. On the palate, it showed great balance as its rich body gave way to juicy blue and red berry fruit with cinnamon and black pepper. The finish was long, showing a mix of ripe berries. (94 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2008 Santa Carolina Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva de Familia – The nose showed intense, spicy blackberry jam, animal musk and coffee notes. On the palate, it was smooth and velvety, yet balanced with wild berries, dark chocolate, and subtle cinnamon. The finish was long and saturating with intense dark chocolate-covered dried cranberry. The tannins slowly melted away on the finish and showed great potential for the future of this wine. (92 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Casa Silva Carménère Reserva - On the nose, I found blackberry, chalk dust, green bell pepper and manure. On the palate, it was big yet balanced, showing wild berries, more green-pepper leading to a cough syrup like finish. Looking back on my notes, I feel as if these descriptors fail to do this wine justice. The fact is, it was highly enjoyable in a gripping and earthy way and the complete opposite of the Terra Noble. (92 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2010 Errazuriz Sauvignon Blanc Estate - The nose showed lemon with fresh cut grass, minerals and a bit of nuttiness. On the palate, this was mouth-filling with sour grapefruit, lime, minerals, and green apple. The finish was long with sour patch citrus fruits. Awesome value too. (90 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!