Sauvignon Blanc: Heat Wave Wine

Here I sit, trudging through the third heat wave that New York City has seen this summer! In fact, 96 degrees is starting to feel like the new normal. The days of big, structured red wines are long gone. At this time of year, I’m longing for something different; something with enough fruit to soothe my craving, yet cold and with enough acidity to keep it mouthwatering. This time of year, I’m craving Sauvignon Blanc.

I know that some people might think of Chardonnay, or even Riesling, but not me. For me, Sauvignon Blanc is the ultimate hot weather wine. It’s extremely versatile with lunch, dinner, the grill, or just sitting around on a hot summer afternoon. What’s more, you can find it in all styles, from rich with ripe tropical tones to mineral-laden with tart citrus that makes your cheeks pucker.

It’s also one of the most versatile food wines I know. How many wines do you know of that can pair with salad, asparagus or sushi? The right Sauvignon Blanc can. What can be confusing is knowing what you’re going to get from a bottle. You can generalize that California will produce a ripe Sauvignon, but it’s often the grower and winemaker that determines a wine's characteristics. Was the climate moderate or hot? Was the soil gravel or schist? Was the wine aged in barrel or stainless steel? The good news is that they are all wonderful expressions of this zesty white wine and a good rule of thumb is this: if it goes with lemon, then it goes with Sauvignon Blanc.

This year I had the pleasure of tasting some outstanding wines from a number of different regions. Many of these have found their way into my cellar, and I'm hoping you will enjoy them as well.

On to the notes:

Napa Valley, United States

Year in and year out, Larkmead's Sauvignon Blanc finds its way to the top of my list. It’s a perfectly balanced wine that can be enjoyed upon release or put away in the cellar to gain further complexities. Unfortunately, it’s made in such small amounts that it never finds its way to retail shelves but is a great reason to visit the winery if you're ever in Napa Valley. In fact, Larkmead is one of a small number of wineries whose mail list I remain signed up for. All of the wines are worth trying.

2011 Larkmead Sauvignon Blanc Lillie B4 block - The nose was beautiful, showing fresh citrus tinged green notes of herbs and field grasses, ripe stone fruit backed by a hint of undergrowth with an intense mineral core. On the palate, it was elegant with silky textures, just the slightest touch of oak ushering in melon, and citrus notes with a hint of herbs. The finish left me wanting more, as its well integrated acidity made the mouth water to notes of ripe melon with a zest of orange. This is easily one of my favorite vintages and reaffirms my belief that this may be the best Sauvignon Blanc coming out of Napa Valley. (93 points) Visit the Larkmead website!

Alto Adige, Italy

Northern Italy continues to impress me with their white varieties. The region has become a powerhouse producer of vibrant white wines that tantalize the palate while refreshing the senses. Last year, one of my top wines came from this same region, and here we are again with a Sauvignon Blanc worth searching for.

2011 Cantina Andriano Sauvignon Blanc Andrius - The nose showed intense tart grapefruit, lemon and green stems with a whiff of dried minerals. On the palate, it was softer than expected with tart acidity showing more toward the close, with flavors of lemon and mineral stones. The finish remained tart, yet mouthwatering with long, staying citrus tones. It was beautiful. (90 points) Find it on: Wine-Search!

North Fork Long Island, United States

The North Fork of Long Island continues to push the envelope as the quality of their red wine rises. However, something that I don’t often hear mentioned is the varietal white wines. I’ve tasted a number of great whites that are worth your attention. A few that immediately come to mind are One Women Wine Chardonnay, Paumanok Chenin Blanc and, of course, Macari Sauvignon Blanc Katherine’s Field.

2012 Macari Sauvignon Blanc “Katherine’s Field” - The nose showed peach skins with hints of lemon, minerals and a dash of vanilla. On the palate, it was racy and clean with ripe white fruits accented by lime and herbs. It finished clean and refreshing with a bitter lemon peel note lingering through the close. (89 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

Stellenbosch, South Africa

South Africa is starting to carve out it’s own niche in the production of Sauvignon Blanc. Not having a lot of experience with the wines, I was very happy to make the discovery below.

2012 Thelema Sauvignon Blanc - The nose showed tart grapefruit aromas with hints of minerals and herbs. On the palate, it was rich and juicy with sour citrus and herbal tones. The cleansing finish was mouthwatering and long with tart citrus fruit. (89 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

Marlborough, New Zealand

And then there’s New Zealand. Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand has certainly gained a well-deserved place among the top producing nations. The wines have a unique character that is truly New Zealand. Their long growing season and maritime influences allow Sauvignon Blanc to achieve amazing intensity, ripeness of fruit and zesty acidity. On those extremely hot days, no wine can cool me down faster.

2012 Chasing Venus Sauvignon Blanc - The nose was fresh with intense aromas of grapefruit, fresh-cut grass, chalky minerals and a hint of green peas. On the palate, a mix of sweet fruit and tart acidity made for a great contrast of textures with flavors of passion fruit, stony minerals and lemon-lime, which seemed to linger for half a minute through the finish. It was remarkably fresh and perfect for a hot summer night. (88 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

Serious value from Pays d'OC

By Eric Guido

There has been a lot of buzz lately about the value wines that are coming out of southern France. Up until recently, I had very little exposure to these wines, with a few entrants from the Languedoc Roussillon. However, I was recently invited to a tasting that featured the wines of Pay d’OC, and I immediately jumped on the invitation, knowing that I needed an education on this region and with hopes of discovering what all of the buzz was about.

In the end, I’m certainly glad I did, because the quality across the board was excellent, especially when you take the price of these wines into account. The great thing about Pays d’OC is that producers are given freedom to experiment with 56 varietals across a region that spans over 100 miles of French coastline with just about every form of terroir you can imagine, from sandy Mediterranean to vineyards that would fool you into thinking you were in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. There are no strict blending or aging rules, and no one is expected to model their wines after some trophy bottle that costs ungodly amounts of money.

The only thing you have to fear is the amount of wines to choose from. I will say that, although I would enjoy any of the wines listed below, I would be weary of buying anything without tasting it first or reading the review from someone I trust, simply because I wouldn’t know what to expect. In the end, these are all affordable, highly enjoyable wines that would make great everyday drinkers and, in some cases, could even be enjoyed as a trophy all it’ own. I picked my four favorites that I’m sure you’ll enjoy.

On to the wines:

2011 Foncalieu Les Fontanelles Sauvignon Blanc - Lemon and stone were the first things that came to mind as I took my first sniff of the Les Fontanelles, followed by a hint of green stems and raw pastry dough. The bouquet was pleasant and very pretty. On the palate, it showed a lean, dry body with juicy acid zing that ushered in flavors of sweet citrus. The finish was dry and long with just the right amount of tart citrus. This is a great value Sauvignon Blanc. (89 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2011 Delatour Cuvee Premier Grenache Rose - The nose on the Delatour Rose was what sold me, as a bouquet of apple, fresh strawberry, rose petals and minerals wafted up from the glass. On the palate, it was clean and pure with white cherry and juicy stone fruits. Inner floral notes defined the dry finish with a hint of cherry. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2010 Jeff Carrel Puydeval (Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Merlot) - The Puydeval kept me coming back to the glass with a bouquet of spicy vanilla, ripe red berries, tobacco, coffee notes and gravelly earth. On the palate, it was dry but intense with pure black and red fruits and cheek-puckering tannins. The spicy red berry finish was slightly short but honestly, I think this wine just needs another year or two before it really blooms. (91 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2010 Domaine Gayda Figure Libre "Freestyle" (Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Carignan and Cabernet Sauvignon) - The nose was wild on the Gayda Freestyle, with spicy mixed berry fruits, chalky minerals, graphite, pepper and something notably alpine. On the palate, it had a great mouth-feel with velvety dark fruits and pepper notes. The finish was juicy with notes of tobacco and a hint of tannin. (91 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Pairing Food and Wine on Snooth

With how busy this year has been, I just realized that I never introduced one of my newest projects with Snooth Media. As of the beginning of this year, I moved on from being a Snooth contributor, to now being a full fledge freelance writer with a regular column on food and wine pairings as well as inclusion in Snooth’s new digital magazine. It’s been a good run and it just keeps on getting better.

This has been a great opportunity for me, to both expand my contacts and have access to a lot more wine to taste. As a result, I’m able to bring my readers an expanded selection of reviews with each update. And there’s even more to come. With an entire year of assignments ahead of me, you can expect to see food and wine pairing articles on pairing Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Merlot, Spanish and Portuguese wines and a big project on Northern Italian reds.

Below, I’ve listed a number of articles that have already been published this year. As for The V.I.P. Table, nothing has changed; you can expect me to continue delivering my take on the world of wine. If there’s anything you’d like to see or a way you think I can improve this site, please feel free to contact me.

Thanks again, and enjoy.

Pairing Riesling

I find it funny that Riesling is always hailed as one of the greatest (if the not the greatest) white wine varieties and yet so few people have it in their cellars or use it at the dinner table. Honestly, it’s a shame. The fact is, Riesling is one of the best food-combining wines. Not just because of its mouthwatering acidity or intense fruit, but because it comes in so many varying degrees of sweetness that you can almost always find a Riesling that will go with your meal... Click here to read more!

Pairing Rose

The wine world is suddenly catching on; there’s nothing wrong with drinking rosé. In my time, I’ve heard people talk down rosé more than any other style of wine. Why? Some will say it was the rise of White Zinfandel that forever left a mark on rosé. People looked at a pink, sparkling glass and thought of grandma’s sweet summer wine or the cheap headache-inducing stuff they were poured at a wedding. Honestly, I don’t think this is the only reason. I believe that in some regions (especially New World), rosé has been the red-headed stepchild of many winemakers. Recently, we are seeing a significant rise in quality across the board... Click here to read more!


Pairing Sauvignon Blanc

Spring is here with summer around the corner, and although I will miss the big, structured red wines that I love so much, this time of year has me longing for Sauvignon Blanc... Click here to read more!



Pairing with Grenache

I often think of Grenache as an easy pleaser. If I’m on the way out the door to go to a party or need to pull that bottle for a friend who has asked for something that’s sure to impress, I almost always go with Grenache. Why? Because the majority of Grenache is fun to drink and easy to understand... Click here to read more!


Pairing Meritage and Bordeaux style wines

For many people, wine appreciation, collecting and drinking begins and ends with Bordeaux. You may not even realize it, but it is primarily two grapes that make up the lion's share of the Bordeaux blend, namely Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with Cabernet Franc trailing as a close third. When dining at the average restaurant that serves wine by the glass, chances are there will always be a Cabernet Sauvignon, and there will likely be a Merlot on the list as well... Click here to read more!


Pairing White Rhone Wines With Food

When most people think of the Northern Rhône, they don't think of white wine. It's really no surprise that Viognier (one of the principal white grapes of the region) had nearly gone extinct only fifty years ago, with just eight acres planted across the entire region. Now, Viognier, as well as Marsanne and Roussanne, have spread across the world. Viognier, being the most popular of these varietals, has found success in South America, Australia, California and even Virginia. Frankly, we're lucky to have Viognier in our arsenal of food-friendly wines because its versatility allows it to pair well with some of the more difficult wine-pairing cuisines around the world... Click here to read more!


Sangiovese Food and Wine Pairings

Sangiovese is easily one of my favorite wines to pair with food. It’s versatile, with many different interpretations that open up numerous opportunities for pairings. I would place Sangiovese in my top five food-friendly wines, with many examples simply needing food to shine. I can’t tell you how many times the comment, “this needs food,” has been made when discussing Chianti, Brunello or Vino Nobile... Click here to read more!


Pairing Syrah From Around The World

Whether it is classic reds from the Northern-Rhône, rich and powerful Aussie Shiraz or the dark and sultry Californian expression of the Rhone Rangers, Syrah is the underdog that slowly continues to gain ground. The interesting Syrah identity crisis is the only thing holding it back from worldwide renown. For example, the average person doesn’t know that Syrah is the grape behind Crozes Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie and the alias “Shiraz” has become more synonymous with Australia than an actual grape varietal... Click here to read more!

Summer craves Sauvignon Blanc

Summer is here and the weatherman forecasted 98 degrees today! I admit that I'll miss the big, structured red wines that I love so much, but this time of year has me longing for something different; something with enough fruit to soothe my craving, yet cold and with enough acidity to keep it mouthwatering. Summer craves Sauvignon Blanc.

I know that some people might think of Chardonnay, or even Riesling, but not me. For me, Sauvignon Blanc is the ultimate warm weather wine. It’s extremely versatile with lunch, dinner, the grill or just sitting around on a hot summer afternoon. What’s more, you can find it in all styles, from rich with ripe tropical tones to mineral-laden with tart citrus that makes your cheeks pucker.

It’s also one of the most versatile food wines I know. How many wines do you know of that can pair with salad, asparagus or sushi? The right Sauvignon Blanc can. What can be confusing is knowing what you’re going to get from a bottle. You can generalize that California will produce a ripe Sauvignon, but it’s often the grower and winemaker that determine a wine's characteristics. Was the climate moderate or hot? Was the soil gravel or schist? Was the wine aged in barrel or stainless steel? The good news is that they are all wonderful expressions of this zesty white wine and a good rule of thumb is; if it goes with lemon, then it goes with Sauvignon Blanc.

This year I had the pleasure of tasting some outstanding wines from a number of different regions. Many of these have found their way into my cellar and I'm hoping you will enjoy them as well.

On to the wines:

Larkmead's Sauvignon Blanc found its way to the top of my list again this year. Unfortunately, it is made in such small amounts that it never finds its way to retail shelves but is a great reason to visit the winery if you're ever in Napa Valley. Larkmead remains one of a small amount of wineries, whose mail list I am signed up for, with high quality wines across the board.

2010 Larkmead Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Lillie B4 Block - The aromas leapt from the glass, showing sweet peaches in cream, a bit of honey with floral and grassy notes and hints lime on wet stone. On the palate it was rich yet focused and beautifully balanced, with young peach and cheek puckering citrus that stay through the long finish with lingering notes of melon and young mango. This wine was absolutely gorgeous and will be interesting to follow over the next few years. (93 points) Visit the Larkmead website!

Over time, I have become a big fan of the white wines of Trentino, and this Sauvignon Blanc was so good that it stopped me in my tracks. There was so much intensity, yet it remained so pure and focused with great balance. Concilio, a cooperative winery in Trentino, was a new name to me this year but I will be looking out for these wines going forward. Also worth seeking out was their 2011 Gewürztraminer Trentino Conoidi.

2011 Concilio Sauvignon Blanc Trentino Arjent - The nose was striking with aromas of fresh-squeezed lemon, floral perfume and stony minerals. On the palate, it started soft and enveloping yet quickly turned clean and focused as flavors of lemon zest and granny smith apple filled the senses. The finish was lingering yet mouthwatering with lemon and floral notes. This was a great example of Sauvignon Blanc from a northern climate. (92 points) Visit the Concilio website!

My recent trip to The North Fork of Long Island turned up a number of great white wines from the region. Macari's Sauvignon Blanc "Katherine's Field" was one of my favorites. A visit to Macari provides taste after taste in a colidoscope of different varietals and styles that are all highly enjoyable. There is absolutly something for everyone.

2010 Macari Sauvignon Blanc "Katherine's Field" - On the nose, I found ripe tropical fruits, citrus and herbs. On the palates, it had a focused concentration of ripe citrus fruits and lots of brisk acidity to keep it fresh and very pleasant. The sour patch finish was long, long, long. (92 points) Visit the Macari Vineyards website!

To me, Pouilly-Fumé are classic Sauvignon Blanc. They are fresh and mouthwatering with the perfect balance of acidity, fruit and spicy floral notes. Often, these wines might seem light-hearted for New World tastes, but each wine has it's place and this one is a stunner on a hot summer day.

2010 Francis Blanchet Pouilly-Fumé Cuvée Silice - The nose showed sea air, lime zest, salty hard cheeses and herbs. On the palate, it was weightless yet full of flavor with salty minerals on the attack, followed by grapefruit and inner floral notes. The wine's crisp acidity washed down effortlessly and left the flavor of intense grapefruit on the palate. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

I was so sad when I realized that this wine wasn't available at any U.S. retailer (Hint to any importers who are looking for a great Sauvignon Blanc for their portfolio). I tasted this at Gambero Rosso this year and it was a highlight of the entire tasting. If you can find it, buy it, you won't be disappointed.

2010 Girlan Sauvignon Flora - The nose was intense with sauvignon fruit as aromas of citrus, herbs and pungent floral notes penetrated the senses. On the palate, it showed juicy citrus and inner floral notes. The mouth-coating finish was beautifully fresh as it melted away from the palate. (92 points) Visit the Cantina Grilan Website!

Tasting at Vinitaly N.Y.C. 2012

If you love Italian wine, then you must know of Vinitaly. Vinitaly is a tasting to beat all tastings that takes place in Verona, Italy each year. For days, the entire city becomes a meca for Italian wines. Every shop, every Trattoria and every parking space is filled with wine lovers, journalists and industry people who are in town to sample the thousands of wines that are available.

Last year, I was very happy to hear that Vinitaly had decided to start a tasting tour with stops in a number of major cities, and that New York was one of them. There may not be thousands of wines to taste, but it’s still done in style. With producers from around Italy, some are staple names, but many are still unknown in the United States. This always provides a great opportunity to discover new wines and producers.

And that's exactly what I was able to do this year. From the obscure Rabosa grape in Verona, to Sagrantino and even a taste of the stunning 2008 Elio Grasso Gavarini Vigna Chiniera. This year's Vinitaly event was a joy to attend. I've narrowed down my tasting notes to my top five. These aren't necessarily my top scoring wines, as much as they are the most exciting wines I tasted that day. There's something here for everyone.

Bosco die Cirmilio (Bosco Viticultori)

This Rosé was spell-binding and just the thing that I wanted to have on hand through the summer. Also a new name for me, the Canal Grando Venezia Rosé Raboso hails from the Veneto region of Italy and is made from the obscure Raboso grape, which lends this wine its unique aroma and flavor profile. If you are looking to try it, buy more than one bottle, because it will go fast.

Bosco Viticultori Canal Grando Venezia Rosé Raboso Spumante Dry - The nose was reminiscent of summer days with watermelons, fresh sliced apples and floral undergrowth. On the palate, a refreshing wave of fruits washed over the senses with a hint of sweetness and a perfect dose of refreshing acidity. The hardest thing about tasting this wine is that I just wanted to keep drinking it. (91 points) Company website!

J. Hofstätter

Hofstätter is certainly not a new name to me, but this wine is. From Trentino, Italy, Martin Foradori, of J. Hofstatter makes thrilling earth and mineral-driven wines from a number of native varieties. Their single vineyard Lagrien is a benchmark wine, and the Gerwurtraminer can be magical. However, on this day it was the Pinot Bianco made me take notice.

2011 J. Hofstätter Pinot Bianco – The nose showed under ripe peach, hints of citrus and spring floral notes. On the palate, it was fresh and vibrant with a hint of sweetness and flavors of green apple, sweet spice and inner floral notes. The refreshing finish had a spritz of citrus and remained enjoyable throughout. (92 points) Company Website!

Tenimenti Luigi d'Alessandro

From Tuscany and with Luca Currado of Vietti as a consultant winemaker, Tenimenti Luigi d'Alessandro’s lineup of Syrah seems to be getting better with each vintage. The only sad thing about this wine is the price, but for those looking to experience its racy, palate-coating fruits and hedonistic, yet truly Tuscan bouquet, it’s worth every penny.

2008 Tenimenti Luigi d'Alessandro (Manzano) Syrah Cortona Migliara – The nose was intense with mixed berries and spice, dark chocolate and earthy herbal notes. On the palate, it was aggressive with its concentrated red and black fruits, pepper and teaming acidity that kept it fresh and lively. The finish was long and palate-coating, showing a glimpse of this wine’s structure as the fruit slowly melted away. The Syrah Migliara gave me hope for Italian Syrah. (94 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Concilio

Two producers from Trentino made it into my top five. That must really say something about how this region is really starting to explode. Concilio is a cooperative winery that has a thrilling lineup of whites that I feel fortunate to have tasted through. Their Gerwurtraminer also deserves an honorable mention. These wines walked the tightrope between rich and racy. The end result was nothing short of magic.

2011 Concilio Sauvignon Blanc Trentino Arjent - The nose was striking with aromas of fresh-squeezed lemon, floral perfume and stony minerals. On the palate, it started soft and enveloping yet quickly turned clean and focused as flavors of lemon zest and granny smith apple filled the senses. The finish was lingering yet mouthwatering with lemon and floral notes. This was a great example of Sauvignon Blanc from a northern climate. (92 points) Company Website!

Cesari

Many years ago, Cesari was one of the first Amarone I tired. Their entry-level bottle is priced very fairly but has never scored very high in my book. However, the Bosan was everything that I love in a glass of Amarone. If you’re in the mood for a racy style of Amarone that still retains its finesse, the Bosan should be right up your alley.

2004 Cesari Amarone della Valpolicella Bosan – The nose showed black cherries with dark chocolate-covered raisins and a hint of ripe banana. It flowed like velvet across the palate with great balance and flavors of black cherry and bitters that lasted into the long fruity finish. (92 points)

A Chile Revelation

Loving and collecting wine is like anything else in the world; something started you on the path. Maybe it was that ’96 Barolo after an intense Saturday dinner service, a special wine that a friend poured for you at an event, or a vacation you took in a wine region. No matter what the reason is, it left a mark on you and part of the reason you keep going is to try and recapture that moment. However, like anything else, those special moments don’t happen too often. In the end, you can find yourself going months without being surprised by a new wine or years without being impressed with a different region. 

However, once in a blue moon, those moments happen; and last night, I had one with the wines of Chile.

I’d say the most amazing part of this revelation was when I looked at the cost of my highest scoring bottles, which were both under $20. To have wine this good, at this price point; I think I’m in love.

One is a Cabernet of exceptional character and quality that can be enjoyed now, yet still has the ability to age. The other is made from Carmenere. “Carmen-what,” you say? Carmenere was once nothing more than a blending grape for Bordeaux that many believe had seen its last days; however, today it has found a new home in Chile and is thriving. The Terra Noble Carmenere Gran Reserva was like a Ballerina; all muscle and intensity, yet it glided effortlessly across the dance floor… err… palate.

On to the notes:

2009 Terra Noble Carmenere Gran Reserva – This wine was a showstopper as its expressive nose showed a balanced mix of red and black berries, pretty floral notes with a bit of stemy funk, and mocha and oak, which followed close behind. On the palate, it showed great balance as its rich body gave way to juicy blue and red berry fruit with cinnamon and black pepper. The finish was long, showing a mix of ripe berries. (94 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2008 Santa Carolina Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva de Familia – The nose showed intense, spicy blackberry jam, animal musk and coffee notes. On the palate, it was smooth and velvety, yet balanced with wild berries, dark chocolate, and subtle cinnamon. The finish was long and saturating with intense dark chocolate-covered dried cranberry. The tannins slowly melted away on the finish and showed great potential for the future of this wine. (92 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Casa Silva Carménère Reserva - On the nose, I found blackberry, chalk dust, green bell pepper and manure. On the palate, it was big yet balanced, showing wild berries, more green-pepper leading to a cough syrup like finish. Looking back on my notes, I feel as if these descriptors fail to do this wine justice. The fact is, it was highly enjoyable in a gripping and earthy way and the complete opposite of the Terra Noble. (92 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2010 Errazuriz Sauvignon Blanc Estate - The nose showed lemon with fresh cut grass, minerals and a bit of nuttiness. On the palate, this was mouth-filling with sour grapefruit, lime, minerals, and green apple. The finish was long with sour patch citrus fruits. Awesome value too. (90 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

Is it Napa or Friuli? Neither. It's Massican

When you hear the words Napa Valley, there are a number of things that may come to mind. Certainly the large scale Cabernets and Meritage blends that Napa is so proud of. Maybe the 1976 Judgment of Paris that put California on the international map. Or, if you’re truly initiated, it might be the exciting Sauvignon Blanc that has been hitting the market. However, one thing that doesn’t easily come to mind are Northern Italian-inspired wines that taste more of the old world than the new, yet somehow manage to still be truly Californian. Yet that is exactly what Massican has captured in each of their bottles.

Ribolla vines
photo courtesy of Dan Petroski

Now on its second vintage, Massican has succeeded in showing that lightning can strike twice. Headed up by Dan Petroski (of Larkmead Vineyards) and sourcing its fruit from around Napa Valley, Massican strives to show the world that California is capable of creating white wines of verve, rooted in the earth, and electric on the palate.

Is it just another gimmick? Absolutely not. The white wines of Friuli have been wowing palates around the world for well over a decade now. Names such as Jermann, Miani, and Vie di Romans have been finding their way into collectors’ cellars for a long time, and not just the cellars of the committed Italophile; these wines are pleasing to a wide range of palates. Such was the inspiration for Massican.

Sixty-four year old Tocai vines
photo courtesy of Dan Petroski

Having sourced their fruit from Tocai vines that are sixty-four years old, Ribolla from the only known Ribolla vineyard in California and Chardonnay, which is planted in the coolest climate areas of Napa Valley, Massican is showing us that California is capable of more. It's a refreshing take on a region that has proved it can make big, bold wines to compete with Bordeaux. Now Massican has set out to show that it is capable of wines of refinement, earth, acid and stone. Those who love the white wines of Austria, Germany and Northern Italy... These are are for you.

Sauvignon Blanc air-drying for the Passito
photo courtesy of Dan Petroski

To truly set off the environment for this tasting, I invited a fellow wine writer to join me in a taste of Friuli dinner, during which we followed the wines for over four hours all paired with the regional cuisine of Friuli, Italy. It was a stunning success. The Massican wines paired beautifully with the flavors of Friuli. I could almost imagine myself sitting by the fogolar (hearth, cooking, meeting and eating spot in the traditional Friuli home), sipping wines made by the same people who tended the fields and raised the animals that provided us with our meal.

On to the wines:

2010 Massican Annia – The 2010 Annia, a blend of tocai friulano, ribolla gialla and chardonnay, is truly rooted in the earth as aromas of minerals and schist filled out the nose. With further exploration, I found white flowers, lemon zest and green melon. On the palate, an earthy salinity followed by citrus and honeydew melon glided across the senses. There was a lean acidity that provided laser-like focus and a mouthwatering zing that lasted into the finish with flavors of herbs and melon. This wine continued to gain depth and nuance over the course of 24 hours. I would have never expected the Annia came from Napa, and I mean that in the best possible way. (90 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

The food for the wine: The Annia was paired with a salad of baby greens with Prosciuto san Daniel and figs poached in sweet Marsala. The dressing was a reduction of the poaching liquid with a splash of red wine vinegar and olive oil. The pairing was perfect.

2010 Massican Gemina – The nose was floral with honey, almond skins and green apple. On the palate, it showed a fuller body than the Annia with a similar acid profile. Flavors of nectarine and white fruits filled the senses and gained sweetness toward the back palate. The finish was fresh and mouthwatering, as the fruits turned to sour melon. This blend of chardonnay and ribolla gialla was very pleasing, right out of bottle, but really came to life with time in the glass. (91 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

Photo courtesy of Dave Trieger
of Vigna Uva Vino

The food for the wine: The Gemina was paired with Paparot (a cornmeal-spinach soup) with a side of Salsicce al Vino (pork sausage poached in white wine). The softer character of the Gemina lent well to this pleasing peasant dish from Friuli. The biting acidity also gave a much-needed lift to the polenta and spinach.

2010 Massican Sauvignon Blanc – The nose on the Sauvignon Blanc showed lemon sabayon, a classic whiff of cat pee, buttery crust and herbs. On the palate, I found a beautiful balance and structure with flavors of lime and granny smith apple. The finish was long and tangy with citrus and stone fruits. It was a complete and highly enjoyable wine that had an alluring "drink me" personality. It will be hard to keep your hands off this now, however this bottle should continue to improve for a few years in bottle. (93 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

The food for the wine: Costicine di Maile con Verze (braised pork chops with savoy cabbage) with Rape e Patate All’Aceto (tangy skillet turnips and potatoes). This combination was a perfect example of how the bracing acidity of these wines can truly liven up a meal. The pork loin chops over cabbage were seductive in their rich and inviting flavors, but it was the zest of citrus from the Sauvignon that made it so memorable. Add to that the tangy turnip and potatoes with thick sliced pieces of bacon and you have a meal that was pure sinful indulgence.

2010 Massican Passito – The Passito, a sweet wine from air-dried sauvignon blanc and a small part ribolla gialla, showed a bouquet of honeysuckle with mint and sage pudding. On the palate, I found peach, sweet melon and lemon curd with a lush full body and zesty acidity that promised years of development in bottle. The finish went on and on with notes of sweet melon. (91 points)Find it: Wine-Searcher!

The food for the wine: What would you pair with a sweet Pasito-style wine? Some might say a cheese plate, but I’d rather go for a dessert that doesn’t depend on its own sweetness to satisfy—how about a tart? Torta di Mele is an apple tart with a crust made from toasted hazelnuts and breadcrumbs. Without the Passito, it’s a beautiful dessert with flavors of sour apple and roasted nuts in butter and toasty goodness, but with the Passito, it truly shined. Neither the Passito nor the tart took center stage; instead they complemented each other with sweet versus sour and a crispy buttery shell versus a smooth lush sweetness. It was a match made in heaven.

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