Tasting at Vinitaly N.Y.C. 2012

If you love Italian wine, then you must know of Vinitaly. Vinitaly is a tasting to beat all tastings that takes place in Verona, Italy each year. For days, the entire city becomes a meca for Italian wines. Every shop, every Trattoria and every parking space is filled with wine lovers, journalists and industry people who are in town to sample the thousands of wines that are available.

Last year, I was very happy to hear that Vinitaly had decided to start a tasting tour with stops in a number of major cities, and that New York was one of them. There may not be thousands of wines to taste, but it’s still done in style. With producers from around Italy, some are staple names, but many are still unknown in the United States. This always provides a great opportunity to discover new wines and producers.

And that's exactly what I was able to do this year. From the obscure Rabosa grape in Verona, to Sagrantino and even a taste of the stunning 2008 Elio Grasso Gavarini Vigna Chiniera. This year's Vinitaly event was a joy to attend. I've narrowed down my tasting notes to my top five. These aren't necessarily my top scoring wines, as much as they are the most exciting wines I tasted that day. There's something here for everyone.

Bosco die Cirmilio (Bosco Viticultori)

This Rosé was spell-binding and just the thing that I wanted to have on hand through the summer. Also a new name for me, the Canal Grando Venezia Rosé Raboso hails from the Veneto region of Italy and is made from the obscure Raboso grape, which lends this wine its unique aroma and flavor profile. If you are looking to try it, buy more than one bottle, because it will go fast.

Bosco Viticultori Canal Grando Venezia Rosé Raboso Spumante Dry - The nose was reminiscent of summer days with watermelons, fresh sliced apples and floral undergrowth. On the palate, a refreshing wave of fruits washed over the senses with a hint of sweetness and a perfect dose of refreshing acidity. The hardest thing about tasting this wine is that I just wanted to keep drinking it. (91 points) Company website!

J. Hofstätter

Hofstätter is certainly not a new name to me, but this wine is. From Trentino, Italy, Martin Foradori, of J. Hofstatter makes thrilling earth and mineral-driven wines from a number of native varieties. Their single vineyard Lagrien is a benchmark wine, and the Gerwurtraminer can be magical. However, on this day it was the Pinot Bianco made me take notice.

2011 J. Hofstätter Pinot Bianco – The nose showed under ripe peach, hints of citrus and spring floral notes. On the palate, it was fresh and vibrant with a hint of sweetness and flavors of green apple, sweet spice and inner floral notes. The refreshing finish had a spritz of citrus and remained enjoyable throughout. (92 points) Company Website!

Tenimenti Luigi d'Alessandro

From Tuscany and with Luca Currado of Vietti as a consultant winemaker, Tenimenti Luigi d'Alessandro’s lineup of Syrah seems to be getting better with each vintage. The only sad thing about this wine is the price, but for those looking to experience its racy, palate-coating fruits and hedonistic, yet truly Tuscan bouquet, it’s worth every penny.

2008 Tenimenti Luigi d'Alessandro (Manzano) Syrah Cortona Migliara – The nose was intense with mixed berries and spice, dark chocolate and earthy herbal notes. On the palate, it was aggressive with its concentrated red and black fruits, pepper and teaming acidity that kept it fresh and lively. The finish was long and palate-coating, showing a glimpse of this wine’s structure as the fruit slowly melted away. The Syrah Migliara gave me hope for Italian Syrah. (94 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Concilio

Two producers from Trentino made it into my top five. That must really say something about how this region is really starting to explode. Concilio is a cooperative winery that has a thrilling lineup of whites that I feel fortunate to have tasted through. Their Gerwurtraminer also deserves an honorable mention. These wines walked the tightrope between rich and racy. The end result was nothing short of magic.

2011 Concilio Sauvignon Blanc Trentino Arjent - The nose was striking with aromas of fresh-squeezed lemon, floral perfume and stony minerals. On the palate, it started soft and enveloping yet quickly turned clean and focused as flavors of lemon zest and granny smith apple filled the senses. The finish was lingering yet mouthwatering with lemon and floral notes. This was a great example of Sauvignon Blanc from a northern climate. (92 points) Company Website!

Cesari

Many years ago, Cesari was one of the first Amarone I tired. Their entry-level bottle is priced very fairly but has never scored very high in my book. However, the Bosan was everything that I love in a glass of Amarone. If you’re in the mood for a racy style of Amarone that still retains its finesse, the Bosan should be right up your alley.

2004 Cesari Amarone della Valpolicella Bosan – The nose showed black cherries with dark chocolate-covered raisins and a hint of ripe banana. It flowed like velvet across the palate with great balance and flavors of black cherry and bitters that lasted into the long fruity finish. (92 points)

I’m out of pesto… SO… MAKE PESTO!

I often tell people that culinary school can teach you preparations, but actually working in a restaurant is the only way you really learn to cook. After nearly a year of school and a lifetime of practice, I found myself working an internship at a NYC restaurant. Eager to please and show my skills, but trapped doing prep work and completely mundane yet necessary tasks (such as defatting a 20-gallon tub of brown sauce) these are the times that teach you humility. Then the day came when I was given the opportunity to work the line and, through time, dinner service. This was when I learned the true differences between what school could teach you and, the real world.

One important lesson to learn: you are only as strong as the prep cook who prepared your station. When you’re a novice, it’s easy to forget this. If you don’t check the walk-in and lowboy for every protein, sauce, and ingredient you may need (don’t forget salt and pepper) then you are doomed to fail.

Is the pasta water seasoned? Check.
Do you have enough clean sauté pans? Check.
Is your oven on and at the right temp? Check.

You get the picture. Thinking along these lines made me remember the day I truly learned this lesson. It was a busy Saturday night about two hours into service when I had five tables lined up on the horizon and was firing three sauces over two burners. I reached down to my lowboy for the pesto when I realized the container was done and… there wasn’t another container to be had.

I looked over to the sous chef, who was garnishing plates at breakneck pace, and yelled “We’re out of Pesto!”

Without even skipping a beat, hands continuing to work as his head turns to me with a look in his eyes like death itself, he growls “SO… MAKE PESTO… NOW!”

Granted, I’ve made pesto many times in my life, at home and in school. But the idea of stopping what I was doing and making pesto in enough time to get my food to the pass at the same time as the rest of the Chefs in the kitchen seemed impossible. The next 60 seconds was a blur: run to get the basil and Parmigiano Reggiano from the walk-in. Run back to the kitchen, grabbing the pine nuts, garlic and olive oil from dry storage. And, finally, setting up the immersion blender on my station.

Next I heard the poissonnier (fish cook) yell, “scallops almost up!” This was a main ingredient in my dish.

I was almost out of time as I placed a few cloves of peeled garlic and pine nuts into the blender on high. I then rough chopped the basil before also adding it to the blender. Next came the olive oil. There I was, grating cheese as quickly as possible while watching the consistency of the pesto. As soon as it looked smooth, I added the cheese with a pinch of salt and pepper, and gave it another whirl. Taste, season, a little more cheese, taste and season again. DONE.

Was it the best pesto I’ve ever made? I doubt it. But it was good and my plate made it to the pass. What I don’t understand, as I think back on that moment, is why so few people make pesto at home. The fact is that it’s one of the easiest sauces to make in a hurry, especially now with spring in the air and fresh basil popping up at local markets.

I guess this post is my testament to everyone out there: MAKE PESTO! Heck, you should even grow your own basil. All you need is a windowsill with good sun and you’ll find yourself with enough basil to garnish, season with, and still make pesto. Toss it with pasta, gnocchi, seafood… the sky’s the limit.

Lastly, I’ve even given you a quick pesto recipe to get you started. But don’t stop here: you can substitute the pine nuts for all manner of nuts. You can experiment by adding a bit of other fresh herbs or even different grating cheeses. It’s all about your palate but, no matter what you do, I guarantee you’ll be amazed by how easy it is to make great pesto.

Basil Pesto

This preparation happens very quickly and it’s important not to let the pesto get too warm in the food processor so be careful not to over use.

3 cups chopped basil
½ cup pine nuts
½ cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano (Gran Padano is a good affordable alternative)
3 cloves minced garlic
1 cup E.V. Olive Oil (have more on the side in case you prefer a looser consistency)

In a food processor, place the garlic and pine nuts and pulse until finely chopped. Add two tablespoons of olive oil and the basil, and turn the food processor to low or medium speed. Gradually add more oil and, lastly, the Parmigiano cheese. Once the mix looks consistent, turn off the processor and taste. Season with salt and pepper, pulse a few times, and taste again. If you’re happy, then you’re done.

Chill for later use or use immediately.

The dish, in the photo above, was a pumpkin tortellini with pesto and toasted pine nuts. A really great combination and paired perfectly with a Hofstätter, Pinot Bianco.

2008 J. Hofstätter Pinot Bianco - Aromas of pear, pineapple and mint rise from the glass. A crisp, cool white with peach, honey dew melon and a bit of cut grass. Balanced and refreshing with melon lingering on the finish.

To find this wine on Wine-Searcher, click here!