Massican; First taste of 2012

Todays addition may just be a quick note, but it's well worth your time. The wine's of Massican have inspired me on more than one occasion. With an introduction to the wines in 2010 with, Massican: Passion in a Bottle, to a detailed food and wine pairing piece in 2011: "Is it Napa or Fruli? Neither. It's Massican".

Each vintage I've been impressed by these wines.  And now, having just tasted the 2012 Massican Annia, I think this is the best vintage--for this wine--to date.  a quick recap for those not familiar with these wines, Massican is a project headed up by Dan Petroski (the assistant winemaker at Larkmead Vineyards).  His wines find a very Italian profile in the soils of Napa Valley.  They are well defined with great acidity and focused fruit.  In a blind tasting, you would easily believe these to be one of the best wines from Friuli or Alto-Adige.  This year the Annia is a blend of 46% Ribolla Gialla, 36% Tocai Friulano and 18% Chardonnay.  If you're a lover of Italian whites, this is a wine you must try.

2012 Massican Annia - The nose of the 2012 Annia was simply gorgeous, with lime infused wet rock, backed by floral undergrowth, notes of peach skin and almond that came forward with time in the glass. On the palate, I found a level of intensity that, in the past, required an extra year in the cellar for Massican, yet it was here on the first pour. Still incredibly vibrant with teaming green apple acidity that made the mouth water, showcasing ripe pit fruits, weighty textures and a bitter twang that lasted through the refreshing finish. As much as i'm enjoying this now, I'm sure it will continue to improve due to it's impeccable balance. It's going to be hard not to drink them all this summer. (93 points) Find it on : Wine-Searcher!

Visit: Massican Winery

Is it Napa or Friuli? Neither. It's Massican

When you hear the words Napa Valley, there are a number of things that may come to mind. Certainly the large scale Cabernets and Meritage blends that Napa is so proud of. Maybe the 1976 Judgment of Paris that put California on the international map. Or, if you’re truly initiated, it might be the exciting Sauvignon Blanc that has been hitting the market. However, one thing that doesn’t easily come to mind are Northern Italian-inspired wines that taste more of the old world than the new, yet somehow manage to still be truly Californian. Yet that is exactly what Massican has captured in each of their bottles.

Ribolla vines
photo courtesy of Dan Petroski

Now on its second vintage, Massican has succeeded in showing that lightning can strike twice. Headed up by Dan Petroski (of Larkmead Vineyards) and sourcing its fruit from around Napa Valley, Massican strives to show the world that California is capable of creating white wines of verve, rooted in the earth, and electric on the palate.

Is it just another gimmick? Absolutely not. The white wines of Friuli have been wowing palates around the world for well over a decade now. Names such as Jermann, Miani, and Vie di Romans have been finding their way into collectors’ cellars for a long time, and not just the cellars of the committed Italophile; these wines are pleasing to a wide range of palates. Such was the inspiration for Massican.

Sixty-four year old Tocai vines
photo courtesy of Dan Petroski

Having sourced their fruit from Tocai vines that are sixty-four years old, Ribolla from the only known Ribolla vineyard in California and Chardonnay, which is planted in the coolest climate areas of Napa Valley, Massican is showing us that California is capable of more. It's a refreshing take on a region that has proved it can make big, bold wines to compete with Bordeaux. Now Massican has set out to show that it is capable of wines of refinement, earth, acid and stone. Those who love the white wines of Austria, Germany and Northern Italy... These are are for you.

Sauvignon Blanc air-drying for the Passito
photo courtesy of Dan Petroski

To truly set off the environment for this tasting, I invited a fellow wine writer to join me in a taste of Friuli dinner, during which we followed the wines for over four hours all paired with the regional cuisine of Friuli, Italy. It was a stunning success. The Massican wines paired beautifully with the flavors of Friuli. I could almost imagine myself sitting by the fogolar (hearth, cooking, meeting and eating spot in the traditional Friuli home), sipping wines made by the same people who tended the fields and raised the animals that provided us with our meal.

On to the wines:

2010 Massican Annia – The 2010 Annia, a blend of tocai friulano, ribolla gialla and chardonnay, is truly rooted in the earth as aromas of minerals and schist filled out the nose. With further exploration, I found white flowers, lemon zest and green melon. On the palate, an earthy salinity followed by citrus and honeydew melon glided across the senses. There was a lean acidity that provided laser-like focus and a mouthwatering zing that lasted into the finish with flavors of herbs and melon. This wine continued to gain depth and nuance over the course of 24 hours. I would have never expected the Annia came from Napa, and I mean that in the best possible way. (90 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

The food for the wine: The Annia was paired with a salad of baby greens with Prosciuto san Daniel and figs poached in sweet Marsala. The dressing was a reduction of the poaching liquid with a splash of red wine vinegar and olive oil. The pairing was perfect.

2010 Massican Gemina – The nose was floral with honey, almond skins and green apple. On the palate, it showed a fuller body than the Annia with a similar acid profile. Flavors of nectarine and white fruits filled the senses and gained sweetness toward the back palate. The finish was fresh and mouthwatering, as the fruits turned to sour melon. This blend of chardonnay and ribolla gialla was very pleasing, right out of bottle, but really came to life with time in the glass. (91 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

Photo courtesy of Dave Trieger
of Vigna Uva Vino

The food for the wine: The Gemina was paired with Paparot (a cornmeal-spinach soup) with a side of Salsicce al Vino (pork sausage poached in white wine). The softer character of the Gemina lent well to this pleasing peasant dish from Friuli. The biting acidity also gave a much-needed lift to the polenta and spinach.

2010 Massican Sauvignon Blanc – The nose on the Sauvignon Blanc showed lemon sabayon, a classic whiff of cat pee, buttery crust and herbs. On the palate, I found a beautiful balance and structure with flavors of lime and granny smith apple. The finish was long and tangy with citrus and stone fruits. It was a complete and highly enjoyable wine that had an alluring "drink me" personality. It will be hard to keep your hands off this now, however this bottle should continue to improve for a few years in bottle. (93 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

The food for the wine: Costicine di Maile con Verze (braised pork chops with savoy cabbage) with Rape e Patate All’Aceto (tangy skillet turnips and potatoes). This combination was a perfect example of how the bracing acidity of these wines can truly liven up a meal. The pork loin chops over cabbage were seductive in their rich and inviting flavors, but it was the zest of citrus from the Sauvignon that made it so memorable. Add to that the tangy turnip and potatoes with thick sliced pieces of bacon and you have a meal that was pure sinful indulgence.

2010 Massican Passito – The Passito, a sweet wine from air-dried sauvignon blanc and a small part ribolla gialla, showed a bouquet of honeysuckle with mint and sage pudding. On the palate, I found peach, sweet melon and lemon curd with a lush full body and zesty acidity that promised years of development in bottle. The finish went on and on with notes of sweet melon. (91 points)Find it: Wine-Searcher!

The food for the wine: What would you pair with a sweet Pasito-style wine? Some might say a cheese plate, but I’d rather go for a dessert that doesn’t depend on its own sweetness to satisfy—how about a tart? Torta di Mele is an apple tart with a crust made from toasted hazelnuts and breadcrumbs. Without the Passito, it’s a beautiful dessert with flavors of sour apple and roasted nuts in butter and toasty goodness, but with the Passito, it truly shined. Neither the Passito nor the tart took center stage; instead they complemented each other with sweet versus sour and a crispy buttery shell versus a smooth lush sweetness. It was a match made in heaven.

You can also join the Massican mailing list from their website. Here!

I remember my Grandmother’s “Sunday Sauce”

Those childhood memories and the things they do to us. They capture us in the moment. Leave us longing for what we once had. The smell of your father’s tobacco or the song your mother sang you to sleep. For me, and I’m sure, for many who had the fortune of growing up with an Italian influence, I fondly remember my grandmother’s Sunday sauce. It wasn’t something you’d ever expect at a restaurant. It was probably not perfectly seasoned… but it was magical. It was warmth and the safe feeling of having your entire family around you, waiting in anticipation of the amazing meal that your grandma had spent hours preparing.

Is it any wonder why you’re taught about nostalgia in culinary school? It’s because it is the key to our hearts and minds.

Last week, I found myself at a dinner with fellow writers and wine enthusiasts, at a restaurant named Cesca on the upper west side. A cozy and inviting place with an old-world feel, yet a perfectly relaxed atmosphere. Firstly, I was there for the wines, and they were great. However, what caught my attention in the midst of it all, and stopped me dead in my tracks, was when the server brought me their Sunday sauce. Understand, I hardly order off the menu and usually ask the staff to bring me whatever the kitchen feels like making me (a great way to try new things and let chefs get creative). So as I looked down at the plate in front of me and the aromas began to waft up to my senses, I was taken aback.

It was one of those moments where it seemed like the world was moving forward without you. I sat there, no longer sipping wine or taking notes... I sat there with the sudden realization that they truly made me a Sunday sauce, in the same style that I had enjoyed every Sunday of my childhood life. What’s more, this was actually on their menu under the exact name of “Sunday Sauce” and I simply didn’t make the connection until that moment.

What did it taste like? Exactly what it should have. A red tomato sauce that had been slow cooked with meatballs, sausage and pork. Perfect acidity and the same texture I remember. I enjoyed myself so much that I failed to write a single note, simply because it was that good. Such a simple thing and yet I haven’t experienced it in all the years I’ve been working in restaurants or wining and dining.

And so, before I publish a single note on the wine from that night, I must say. Cesca is a restaurant that deserves some attention. I can assure you, it will get another visit from me in the near future. And I’m happy to recommend it to all of you, if for no other reason, than to taste that Sunday Sauce. Well done.

After all of that, you might think that the wine was an after thought, but I assure you, it was amazing. Snooth editor and community manager, Greg dal Piaz, brought a selection of rarities and well aged beauties, from old school California cab to 1978 Barolo. Put the wines with the food and add the great company and you have an evening that I will not soon forget.

On to the notes:

2005 Vare Ribolla Gialla - USA, California, Napa Valley (7/12/2010)
Talk about an interesting wine as the nose hits you with almond, pistachio and olives yet somehow… ripe. What was expected to be a semi-sweet palate turned out to be remarkably dry with roasted nuts, minerals and grassy hint. The finish was a bit simple but in all honesty, this bottle is worth it for the bouquet alone. (89 pts.)

2008 Di Filippo Montefalco Grechetto Colli Martani - Italy, Umbria, Montefalco (7/12/2010)
On the nose I found lemon sabayon with hazelnuts and a bit of sea air. The palate was rich with canned peaches, vanilla and a hint of lime with a nice fresh finish. (88 pts.)

1984 Daniel Estate Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley (7/12/2010)
Excellent, old school, Napa cabernet as your senses are assaulted with dusty, dark red fruit, eucalyptus, stems, and balsamic vinegar. On the palate, I found a rush of menthol and strawberry fruit. It was immensely fresh and lush for a wine of over 20 years old. The finish keeps a hint of menthol and carries red fruit. (89 pts.)

1990 San Giusto a Rentennano Percarlo Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (7/12/2010)
The nose showed red fruit with sauté mushroom and a bit of olive. On the palate, I found ripe dark cherry, spice, old cedar and leather strap mixed a dusty sweetness. The impeccable balance on the palate really makes this a showstopper of a wine. I enjoyed it immensely and was only disappointed that there wasn’t more in the bottle on my second pass (94 pts.)

1978 Prunotto Barolo Cannubi - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (7/12/2010)
The nose showed, crushed fall leaves, parchment paper and soft strawberry fruit. The palate showed fresh, vibrant cranberry fruit with bitters and a hint of old wood yet so lush and velvety. The finish carried the sour red fruit into a soft red fade that kept me filling my glass. (86 pts.)

2005 Maculan Torcolato - Italy, Veneto, Breganze (7/12/2010)
A wow of a desert wine as aromas of apricot, rhubarb and peach nectar waft up through your senses. The palate is lush yet fresh, with ripe peach and mango followed by a sour apple wash of acidity as it goes down into a mellow, fresh fruit finish. I thoroughly enjoyed this bottle. (91 pts.)

Wait, wait wait, one last thing that's worth the extra read... this was a blogger dinner after all and I met with a number of fascinating people whose work has really impressed me. Foodies and wine lovers alike will all enjoy the following links.

Food, Wine and the business is perfectly mixed in this blog by Susannah Gold. Susannah's experience in the industry and time abroad lends to some amazing insights on wine and food at avvinare. It's also a treat to listen to her speak Italian, if you're ever face to face.

This was my second time meeting Diane Letulle and just like the first, she’s a real treat to talk with. Diane’s an accomplished wine educator and blogger as well as the writer of The Manhattan Wine Examiner. You can also find her blog at Wine Lover's Journal.

Lastly, Sasha Smith, the writer of Spin the bottle NY, which I’ve found myself reading quite often lately. Sasha’s blog is a breath of fresh air with a diverse content that’s set off by her witty yet highly informative writing style.