The Sweet Spot for Syrah

Recently, I was treated to a night of older Syrah. After a month of tasting recent vintages, this was truly a special treat. For me, it is new ground as well. Our host, Greg dal Piaz of Snooth, explained that the sweet spot for Syrah was in the 10–15 year drinking window, with modern renditions peaking at this time and traditional bottles just hitting their pride. After this tasting, I completely agree, at least from the bottles presented. However, that’s not to say that the older bottles didn’t hold their ground.

What was even more interesting was how differently the two styles showed in terms of new world versus old yet how enjoyable they both were for their unique characteristics. The Old World Syrahs from the northern Rhone were smooth and savory with earthy, meaty and smoky notes that continued to evolve in the glass. The new world renditions were fleshier and more exotic, still earthy but with riper fruit that was not offensive in any way.

For my personal tastes, I’d take home the 1995 Delas Bessard Hermitage, but I must admit to being highly intrigued by the sweet intoxicating aromas of the 1994 Swanson Syrah from Napa Valley.

I seriously urge my readers to try more Syrah. No matter what style of wine you like, you can find a Syrah to fit your tastes, even if your tastes are aged wine. As you can see from my notes, most of these bottles were in beautiful form.

On to the wines:

1988 Edmunds St John Sonoma Syrah – The nose showed dried cherry, vegetal stems, old cinnamon stick, moss, and hints of old library book. It was ripe and mature at the same time. On the palate, it was soft and velvety with fading blackberry and prunes. The finish was staying and featured sweet blackberry fruit and citrus rinds. (90 points)

1988 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie Brune et Blonde – At first the Brune et Blonde was pungent with barnyard and earth, but as it sat in the glass, notes of warm blackberry tart with a whiff of raw smoked bacon and chalky minerals came forward. On the palate, it was clean and bright with sour blackberry fruit and savory meaty notes. Pepper and herbs dominated the finish and completed the experience. Beautiful. (92 points)

1994 Columbia Crest Reserve (15% Grenache) – On the nose, I found browned butter and black fruit with herbs, dark wood tones, a hint licorice and undergrowth. On the palate, it was rich yet fresh with dark fruits, savory saucy notes, and herbal tones. It was energetic and fun with lots of acidity and bacon notes on the finish. (91 points)

1994 Swanson Syrah Napa Valley – The nose was infectious to the point that it was hard to pull away from it. It showed sweet maraschino cherry with cinnamon, medicinal herbs and floral notes, yet as sweet and rich as it was, it had finesse and elegance. On the palate, I found black fruits and spice, which gained depth and followed across the palate like silk until the close where juicy acidity turned to sour juicy fruit that stayed through the finish. (93 points)

1995 Delas Frères Hermitage Les Bessards – The nose was deep, layered and constantly changing. It showed savory leather and beef jerky, and it then turned to noxious floral notes with chalky minerals and undergrowth. On the palate, it was balanced, juicy and savory with blackberry, pepper, and kale. The finish was clean and pure with great balanced acidity keeping it fresh. (94 points)

1995 Charles Melton Barossa Shiraz – The nose was big and rich, almost palatable, like a doughnut shop with vanilla, raspberry and candies. On the palate, it was mouth-filling and sticky with black fruits, sweet spices and a big sticky sweet finish. (85 points)

1996 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage – The nose showed sweet floral notes, black tea, stony minerals, earth, black pepper and a hint of parchment. On the palate, it was velvety and savory with excellent balance showing sour berries, black soil, bell pepper and leather. The finish was beautifully smooth and lasting. (93 points)

1996 Columbia Winery Syrah Red Willow Vineyard– The nose showed raw dough, vitamins, iron, and a hint of vanilla. On the palate, it was sweet and broad at first, yet it then turned to sour black fruits with lots of acidity. Sour turned juicy on the finish and left the palate refreshed. (88 points)

Vintage Chianti Tasting at Tolani

Do you drink Chianti? If you answered no then I’d have to wonder what planet you’re from. What about aged Chianti? I’d be surprised if the average person has tasted Chianti with over ten years on it. Why? Well, because most people think of Chianti as an early drinking yet highly enjoyable wine with a night of pasta or pizza. However, three years ago I received an education in aged Chianti from Greg dal Piaz of www.snooth.com. On that night, the theme was Chianti Classico from 1990, and it changed the way I looked at Chianti forever.

Fast forward to October 2010 at a new restaurant on the upper west side: Tolani. After three years of experimenting with aged Chianti, the time was right for a more in-depth approach at understanding what can be achieved from these great Tuscan wines. Lucky for me, my friend Fernando Losada decided to organize a tasting centered on Sangiovese (the grape that makes Chianti, Chianti) with all bottles predating the year 2000.

With 12 bottles of the who’s who in Tuscany and eight tasters of impeccable repute, the decision was made that these wines were fabulas. What thrilled me the most was the utter level of rich, vibrant fruit and balance that was found in each glass. Even with two wines over 30 years old, we were amazed by the high level quality found from each bottle. What’s remarkable to me is that we often speak of how Italy has improved the level of quality and cleanliness in their cellars over the last decade, yet these wines showed that there were many producers that were far ahead of the curve in Tuscany.

My suggestion: search out some aged Chianti Classico from a reputable dealer, and find out for yourself. The wines below would certainly be a good place the start.

On to the notes:

1985 Boscarelli (Marchesi de Ferrari Corradi) Vino da Tavola – The nose opened up with ginger spice cookie, roasted sausage and potpourri with a mineral bass note that made this all at once savory, fruity and earthy. On the palate, I found lush black fruits that were spicy with a hint of black pepper leading to a dark soil note on the slightly tannic finish. I hope to be able to taste this again in a few years. (92 Points)

1985 Isole e Olena Chianti Classico Riserva – The nose showed dusty spiced cherry with hints of florist shop, undergrowth and a bit of old parchment. On the palate, I found tart, tight wild berry fruit and a hint of herbal tea. The finish was tight but showed this wine is still blossoming. (91 points)

1995 Stefano Farina Chianti Classico Le Bocce – The nose on this wine was immediately intriguing as it reminded me of the cooking process when making cranberry sauce. Aromas of red wild berries with a dark mulling spice quality rose up from the glass. On the palate, I found lush red fruits with a gorgeous balance of acidity verse richness, leading to a finish that was still tannic and showed a hint of anise. (91 Points)

1996 Castell’in Villa Chianti Classico – I found myself going back and forth between liking and disliking this wine as it showed incredible richness, yet had an almost dirty quality to it. The nose showed rich soil and sweet tea with red fruits and hard candies. On the palate, I found tart cherry with herbal tea, which led to a medium finish that left me with a rusty aftertaste. (85 points)

1991 Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva Badia a Passignano – On the nose I found ginger and spice with tart black fruit and a hint of charcoal and vanilla. The palate was structured and a bit restrained, with blackberry and tar. The finish was rich and long. (89 points)

1990 Villa di Vetrice Chianti Rufina Riserva (corked) – Too bad this bottle was corked because you could sense the quality that was fighting to stay in front of the mildew-like aroma the crept threw. Otherwise, I found a rich, spicy expression of dark fruit on the nose. On the palate, I found dark fruits and beef broth leading to a medium finish. (No score)

1995 Fattoria di Felsina Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia – The nose on the ’95 Rancia was floral with spice, cinnamon and a hint of stems. On the palate, I found smooth tart cherry and cedar with a beautiful balance of acidity verse structure, which led to a refined yet slightly restrained finish. (92 points)

1997 Marchesi Mazzei Chianti Classico Castello di Fonterutoli – On the nose, I found plum fruit with a dusting of confectioners sugar followed by veal reduction and cedar. On the palate, cherry was dominant with a musky, animal note. Bright sour fruit appeared on the finish. (86 points)

1997 La Massa Chianti Classico Giorgio Primo – I found restrained fruit on the nose, as sour berries and cinnamon gram come forward. On the palate, I found jammy cherry but little else and this wine lost momentum leading into the finish. (86 Points)

1997 Castello di Monsanto Tinscvil Toscana IGT – This wine showed a mix of blue and black fruit on the nose with hints of beefy broth. On the palate, I found sour cherries and bitters leading to a short tart finish. (86 points)

1977 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio - The 1977 Monsanto, Il Poggio showed vibrant and fresh aromas reminding me of autumn with dried cherry, allspice and baking pie crust. On the palate, I found sweet cherry tobacco and cedar on a balanced and delicate frame. The finish was medium long with red fruit and hint of copper penny. An amazing bottle of wine. (95 points)

1980 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio - The nose of this wine showed undergrowth and herbs with dusty dark fruit and a bit of old parchment paper. On the palate, I found tart yet delicate raspberry fruit, which led to a tannic anise finish that was a bit marred by acidity. (89 points)

Dessert

2006 Szent Benedek Pinceszet Tokaji Remete - The nose showed apple and lemon curd with a mineral note. On the palate, I found fresh sour apple with hazelnut. This wine was rich yet refreshing all at once. (89 points)

I remember my Grandmother’s “Sunday Sauce”

Those childhood memories and the things they do to us. They capture us in the moment. Leave us longing for what we once had. The smell of your father’s tobacco or the song your mother sang you to sleep. For me, and I’m sure, for many who had the fortune of growing up with an Italian influence, I fondly remember my grandmother’s Sunday sauce. It wasn’t something you’d ever expect at a restaurant. It was probably not perfectly seasoned… but it was magical. It was warmth and the safe feeling of having your entire family around you, waiting in anticipation of the amazing meal that your grandma had spent hours preparing.

Is it any wonder why you’re taught about nostalgia in culinary school? It’s because it is the key to our hearts and minds.

Last week, I found myself at a dinner with fellow writers and wine enthusiasts, at a restaurant named Cesca on the upper west side. A cozy and inviting place with an old-world feel, yet a perfectly relaxed atmosphere. Firstly, I was there for the wines, and they were great. However, what caught my attention in the midst of it all, and stopped me dead in my tracks, was when the server brought me their Sunday sauce. Understand, I hardly order off the menu and usually ask the staff to bring me whatever the kitchen feels like making me (a great way to try new things and let chefs get creative). So as I looked down at the plate in front of me and the aromas began to waft up to my senses, I was taken aback.

It was one of those moments where it seemed like the world was moving forward without you. I sat there, no longer sipping wine or taking notes... I sat there with the sudden realization that they truly made me a Sunday sauce, in the same style that I had enjoyed every Sunday of my childhood life. What’s more, this was actually on their menu under the exact name of “Sunday Sauce” and I simply didn’t make the connection until that moment.

What did it taste like? Exactly what it should have. A red tomato sauce that had been slow cooked with meatballs, sausage and pork. Perfect acidity and the same texture I remember. I enjoyed myself so much that I failed to write a single note, simply because it was that good. Such a simple thing and yet I haven’t experienced it in all the years I’ve been working in restaurants or wining and dining.

And so, before I publish a single note on the wine from that night, I must say. Cesca is a restaurant that deserves some attention. I can assure you, it will get another visit from me in the near future. And I’m happy to recommend it to all of you, if for no other reason, than to taste that Sunday Sauce. Well done.

After all of that, you might think that the wine was an after thought, but I assure you, it was amazing. Snooth editor and community manager, Greg dal Piaz, brought a selection of rarities and well aged beauties, from old school California cab to 1978 Barolo. Put the wines with the food and add the great company and you have an evening that I will not soon forget.

On to the notes:

2005 Vare Ribolla Gialla - USA, California, Napa Valley (7/12/2010)
Talk about an interesting wine as the nose hits you with almond, pistachio and olives yet somehow… ripe. What was expected to be a semi-sweet palate turned out to be remarkably dry with roasted nuts, minerals and grassy hint. The finish was a bit simple but in all honesty, this bottle is worth it for the bouquet alone. (89 pts.)

2008 Di Filippo Montefalco Grechetto Colli Martani - Italy, Umbria, Montefalco (7/12/2010)
On the nose I found lemon sabayon with hazelnuts and a bit of sea air. The palate was rich with canned peaches, vanilla and a hint of lime with a nice fresh finish. (88 pts.)

1984 Daniel Estate Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley (7/12/2010)
Excellent, old school, Napa cabernet as your senses are assaulted with dusty, dark red fruit, eucalyptus, stems, and balsamic vinegar. On the palate, I found a rush of menthol and strawberry fruit. It was immensely fresh and lush for a wine of over 20 years old. The finish keeps a hint of menthol and carries red fruit. (89 pts.)

1990 San Giusto a Rentennano Percarlo Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (7/12/2010)
The nose showed red fruit with sauté mushroom and a bit of olive. On the palate, I found ripe dark cherry, spice, old cedar and leather strap mixed a dusty sweetness. The impeccable balance on the palate really makes this a showstopper of a wine. I enjoyed it immensely and was only disappointed that there wasn’t more in the bottle on my second pass (94 pts.)

1978 Prunotto Barolo Cannubi - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (7/12/2010)
The nose showed, crushed fall leaves, parchment paper and soft strawberry fruit. The palate showed fresh, vibrant cranberry fruit with bitters and a hint of old wood yet so lush and velvety. The finish carried the sour red fruit into a soft red fade that kept me filling my glass. (86 pts.)

2005 Maculan Torcolato - Italy, Veneto, Breganze (7/12/2010)
A wow of a desert wine as aromas of apricot, rhubarb and peach nectar waft up through your senses. The palate is lush yet fresh, with ripe peach and mango followed by a sour apple wash of acidity as it goes down into a mellow, fresh fruit finish. I thoroughly enjoyed this bottle. (91 pts.)

Wait, wait wait, one last thing that's worth the extra read... this was a blogger dinner after all and I met with a number of fascinating people whose work has really impressed me. Foodies and wine lovers alike will all enjoy the following links.

Food, Wine and the business is perfectly mixed in this blog by Susannah Gold. Susannah's experience in the industry and time abroad lends to some amazing insights on wine and food at avvinare. It's also a treat to listen to her speak Italian, if you're ever face to face.

This was my second time meeting Diane Letulle and just like the first, she’s a real treat to talk with. Diane’s an accomplished wine educator and blogger as well as the writer of The Manhattan Wine Examiner. You can also find her blog at Wine Lover's Journal.

Lastly, Sasha Smith, the writer of Spin the bottle NY, which I’ve found myself reading quite often lately. Sasha’s blog is a breath of fresh air with a diverse content that’s set off by her witty yet highly informative writing style.