Newport, Rhode Island: Rain or Shine

Newport, Rhode Island is certainly one of the premier vacation destinations in all of New England. It’s home to the Newport Jazz Festival, the beautiful cliff walks, the International Tennis Hall of Fame, luxery yachts, and tours of some of the most extravagant summer cottages you’re ever likely to see (although you or I would call these mansions). All that aside, what always attracts me to a vacation spot is the food and accommodations. With some 102 bed & breakfasts on the island, along with scores of local pubs and some great restaurants, Newport is also a destination to be considered for foodies.

In the end, this was an amazing trip; even if the weather did its best to scare us away. Following suit, in what’s been a year of constant rain and humidity, Newport was covered in a dense fog with cold winds blowing off the bay. There were times that you could have convinced me we were in Scotland. However, Newport isn’t just about the wharf and water-themed activities. The island is home to some of the most amazing mansions you will ever see, remnants of another time, where the blue bloods of our country would vacation for only two months out of the year. Many tours are now audio only, but a number of guided tours do still exist and they were excellent.

Rough Point, the home of Doris Duke, is run by the Newport Restoration Foundation and was one of the most interesting destinations on our trip. Unlike many of the other homes that have been empty for many decades, Doris Duke was still living in this home as of 1993, giving it a truly unique feel, as you can still imagine her in our time. What’s more, this wealthy philanthropist was also quite quirky, having not only one of the most beautiful art and antique furniture collections—but also camels on her property. It was a great tour of a truly beautiful home that’s full of history.

Another tour of note was the Servants Life Tour, run by The Preservation Society at The Elms. The Elms was the home of Edward Berwind, who made a fortune in the coal mining industry. This home, completed in 1901, was gigantic and had all of the most advanced technology of the time. The Servants Life tour showcased how the other half lived with a tour of the inner workings of the mansion. False fronts, inlaid buttons and trellises covering service entrances made it to seem as if the house worked by magic—without us ever seeing a servant in the public rooms of the home. It also sported its own coal fired furnaces, large ice making machine, and an 82-stair climb up to the servant’s quarters. It was an amazing tour.

What else was there to fill our time as the mist and rains continued to roll in? For one thing, our Bed and Breakfast was fantastic, and one of the best I’ve ever stayed in. La Farge Perry House is a Victorian-era home located in the heart of historic Newport. An easy walk to all the attractions, fine dining, shops and the wharf. The rooms were beautiful, elegant, comfortable, and even larger than expected from the pictures we had seen. The breakfast was excellent, home-cooked and perfectly prepared. However, what truly set this apart from other Bed and Breakfast experiences was the warmth and hospitality that was not only ingrained in the home itself, but in our innkeeper.

Never before have I felt so welcomed at a Bed and Breakfast, so able to enjoy all of the public rooms and everything the house had to offer. I found myself enjoying coffee with our innkeeper at the early hours of the day. The surrounding gardens and porch made for a beautiful backdrop, as well as a great location to spend the evening (at least when it wasn’t raining). I’d be hard pressed to recommend another Bed and Breakfast over La Farge Perry house; it was one of the highlights of our trip.

Then there was the food and dining, which ended up being one of the more difficult parts of our trip. In the end, what we learned was that our next rip would be planned a little differently. Usually, I’ll seek out one or two formal dining experiences on vacation. However, it became quickly apparent, as I asked around with the locals, that the reservations I had made before arriving were at the wrong places. Newport has a number of formal dinning rooms attached to a pub or bar that really don’t make the cut. Of these, The Black Pearl and Clarke Cooke House were the two that fell short. The food was dated, poorly cooked and covered in thick, rich mother sauces.

Enough of the bad though. On the good side, we left with a list of great restaurants (local approved) to try on our next trip, as well as some fine places we found while we were there. In my last post, I spoke of the Wharf Pub and Restaurant and The Fifth Element. Another to add to that list is the Salvation Café. Salvation Café was a relaxed, colorful and inspired location that reminded me of something you might find in NYC’s East Village. The menu was inventive and not afraid to list staple dishes (glazed short ribs) right next to dishes that tempted the imagination, like the rabbit sausage or vegetable and herb gnocchi.

On our list for next time, The Thames Street Kitchen and Tallulah on Thames. I’ve been assured that these two spots will easily make up for my fine dining let-downs at the Wharf.

As for wine, we brought our own and enjoyed a wonderfully refreshing bottle of Paumanok Chenin Blanc (my note can be found below). However, I also stumbled upon a small wine shop, The Newport Wine Cellar, attached to a specialty foods store, Le Petit Gourmet, with a selection of wines that I might have thought came straight from my cellar. Literally, the shop owner had a great selection of Italian wines that I love from Paolo Bea, Montevertine, Aldo Conterno, and Brovia. The store was staffed by knowledgeable and passionate wine lovers, and even one with his own new blog, The Penniless Wine Snob, worth checking out. These shops are definitely worth a visit, whether it be for a great bottle of wine or to put together your own picnic for the beach.

In this end, this was a great trip, and I would recommend Newport to anyone, rain or shine, looking for a unique vacation spot.

2012 Paumanok Chenin Blanc - Upon first opening, the 2012 Paumanok Chenin Blanc was stubborn on the nose, but with a little time in the glass, blossomed beautifully with ripe pit fruits, a spritz of lemon, stoney, chalky minerals and fresh herbal tones. On the palate, a hint of sweetness was counterbalanced by green apple acidity with ripe green melon and beautifully soft textures. The finish was dry with citrus pith and minerals lingering through the close. (89 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

Wharf Pubs & Great Scotch, Newport RI

For my first night in Newport Rhode Island, the Wharf Pub and Restaurant provided me with exactly what I needed; a relaxed setting, good music, friendly staff and some great fish and chips. The food here was very good but not overthought with large (for me) portions and attractive plating’s that really make you want to dig right in. The beer list was massive, loaded with local beers from RI, MA and VT, and left me feeling a bit lost. However our waitress was more than ready to make a suggestion that proved enjoyable throughout the evening.

I started with a simple salad, while picking at a well laid out cheese and charcuterie platter, but what really stood out was a plate of tater tots (yes-tater tots) with anchovy butter. The Wharf pub has a list of different tater tot combinations that you can choose from and they all looked very appealing. As for the entrée, the fish and chips really caught my eye. Fresh cod battered and fried, over a mountain of potatoes (that would have taken me two meals to finish) and the house made tartar sauce. It was excellent and exactly what I needed on my first night in this seaside town. Along with a glass of Sam Adams “Grumpy Monk”, a Belgium inspired IPA, I was all set for a night on the wharf.

Another dish of considerable note was the pork shoulder mac and cheese. You can’t eat like this often, but when on vacation (or for once in a blue moon), you must treat yourself to a dish like this. As if the pork shoulder and mac and cheese weren’t enough, a pile of batter-fried onions resided on top, to truly cap off your hedonistic wet dreams. It was plated beautifully in a cast iron pan, giving it the perfect rustic appeal. As a lover of an occasional Cassoulet, this dish rang all the right bells.

Moving on with our evening, we found ourselves at a bar, grill and lounge named, The Fifth Element. Having just finished with the satiating cuisine at The Wharf Pub, I wasn’t in a mood to eat. However, what I did find at the Fifth Element, were a number of great whiskies to choose from.

For a few months now, I’ve had my eye on a bottle of the Glenmorangie Signet (having come highly recommended by a friend), yet I never pulled the trigger. Imagine how happy I was to see a bottle residing at the bar in the Fifth Element. It was a beautiful glass of Scotch: undeniably rich and spicy, with smooth warm wood tones, espresso, a hint of citrus and dark chocolate. It literally danced on the palate, with a finish that seemed to go on and on. I will be buying a bottle. From there I moved on to a glass of the 15-year Yoichi, again a whisky that I’ve heard a lot of about but haven’t tasted. It was gorgeous, holding it’s own, but hard to follow the Signet. There was a big part of me that loved it, for being “correct”, but not unique or inspiriting. I found myself using the word soulless, which was truly too harsh. The fact is, I enjoyed it and would never turn down glass—I guess I just wanted my first Japanese whisky to be an ah-ha moment.

So ended my first night in Newport, I can’t imagine a better way to have spent it.

Great friends, wine, cigars and… food; ah well, you can’t win them all.

The best and the worst of times, the best being a night of great friends, wine and even some cigars; the worst being a restaurant that didn’t quite make the cut.

As I mentioned a few days ago, I was off to the Blue Grotto for a tasting and dinner with friends on Saturday night. Without going into much explanation, the food was… okay. With a beautiful interior and great view of Atwells Ave from my seat, everything seemed fine. The appetizers were great, as was the wine, which I’ll get into shortly, but the entrée’s fell flat.

With lobster ravioli that was undercooked and under-stuffed, a risotto with a mealy texture that reeked of being left too long on the pass, and a pasta dish that was simply unremarkable, I have to unfortunately give a thumbs down to this Federal Hill stalwart. Honestly, I had my fears, since a number of locals referred to the establishment as outdated or tired. Going against their recommendation was a mistake.

But that is where the bad ends and the good begins.

The wines that night were amazing, I sat their happily, gazing at a lineup of bottles which contained four famous names from Italy with a Brunello di Montalcino, a Super Tuscan, a Tuscan syrah, and a Barolo.

We started with the 1997 Antinori, Tignanello, which was gorgeous with dark raspberries, flowery herbal tea, and road tar showing on the nose. The palate was luscious and rich, yet finessed with blackberry jam and plum with citrus sprits and a hint of wood showing through. The finish was long, as red fruits began to show. This bottle was one of my favorites but shut down after being opened for about five hours.

The 1997 Poggio di Sotto, Brunello di Montalcino had a lovely and elegant floral nose with red fruit and woodsy herbs. On the palate, it showed round cherry fruit and charred wood on a well-balanced frame, but the finish closed down hard as my palate was coated with tannin. I’d give this bottle a few more years, at least, and can’t wait to taste it down the road.

Next, the 1999 Isole e Olena, Syrah Collezione de Marchi Toscana showed a deep purple color in the glass. Its dark brooding nose was smoky with musk, plums, and spice cookies. On the palate, it was velvety smooth with more plum and a bit of grapiness, but, came across as one-dimensional with an unremarkable finish. This may have passed over the hill or at least been in a disjointed stage of its life.

Lastly, the 2000 Aldo Conterno, Barolo Granbussia, showed candied red fruit with cedar, leather, crushed fall leaves and a seductive Christmas spice on the nose. On the palate, it was full-bodied and juicy with ripe strawberry, tobacco, licorice and spice. The finish was long, with red fruit, yet clean, showing silky tannin. This is an approachable bottle now, but it still shows a balance that promises many years of good drinking and, with all this ripe fruit, might one day be a truly classic Barolo.

With that it was back to the city, to a cigar lounge I had stumbled upon a few nights ago called Cigar Masters. With four bottles tucked in my bag and camera in hand, I walked from Federal hill across I95 and back toward the Rhode Island Convention center. Providence was alive and buzzing with activity this Saturday night. Put that together with the sights and clean streets and it beats the hell out of my hometown, at least until 2:00 am (when EVERYTHING closes).

Cigar Masters is an unpretentious cigar lounge that walks a tight rope between relaxed cocktail / wine bar and old world-styled private club. It’s basically the best of both worlds since you can walk in for a drink and smoke, find a cozy corner to lose yourself, or find some new friends. This is not just a room full of smokers; instead imagine multiple rooms done in wood and earth tones with mood lighting, art, books, and wide screen TVs, along with all manner of cigar smoking paraphernalia.

You pick the room that fits your mood and the rest is easy. The best part is that, for the non-smoker, this is still an option, since the ventilation system works wonders pulling the smoke from the rooms before it can become obnoxious.

What’s more, the walk-in humidor provides a vast selection of cigars and is under the careful supervision of its own cigar master, who is happy to point you toward the cigar that fits you best, educate you on your purchase, storage, smoking; you name it. Being something of a cigar novice myself, I felt perfectly comfortable and enjoyed the cigars recommended to me.

Cigar Masters also touts a balanced wine and spirits list with the cigar smoker in mind. Big, juicy reds fill out the bulk of their list with a number of fine bottles for the serious drinker. However, I found myself gravitating to their list of ports, or to be more specific, vintage ports.

The 1991 Dow’s, Vintage Port was a beast on the nose with vibrant black cherry, chocolate and boysenberry. The palate was rich and silky with cherry fruit, cinnamon and black strap molasses with some tangy acidity showing through. The finish was fresh yet layered with cherry and dark chocolate.

Lastly, the 1977 Dow’s, Vintage Port showed serious class and breed with cherry, spice, caramel and burnt sugar on its nose. The palate showed cherry cough syrup, roasted dark espresso beans and dark, dry cocoa, but remained juicy and smooth. The finish went on and on with sour cherry and espresso notes.

What an evening, I thought, sitting there with a cigar and a glass of port while chatting it up with a group of locals I found myself hanging with. If I had to describe Providence in one word, it would be… inviting. Whether it’s the stores or restaurants, people in bars or on the streets, it’s an amazing city, populated with warm, friendly people and something new to do or explore around every corner.

To check out Cigar Master's website, click here!

I must give an honorable mention to Flemings Steak House, touted as the best steak in Providence, Rhode Island. Unfortunately I didn't have the time to formally sit for diner but their cozy bar and wonderful staff provided me with the perfect atmosphere to complete a lot of my work. I guarantee they are on my list for the next visit.

To find the Antinori, Tignanello 1997 on Wine-Searcher, click here!
To find Aldo Conterno's 2000 Granbussia on Wine-Searcher, click here!
To find Dow's Vintage Port on Wine-Searcher, click here!

What’s the best seafood in Providence, Rhode Island?

Ask just about any local and the same name will be spoken time and time again: Hemenway’s, located near the historic district and overlooking the Providence River.

The walk to Hemenway’s was an experience unto itself as I crossed the waterway into the historic district of Providence and followed the water down to the restaurant. This civilian walk, which includes parks, statues, restaurants and scenic views, is a place I could see myself spending a great deal of time.

I imagine sitting on the waterfront with a good book and a glass of wine as the sun goes down. And for those seeking a romantic place to spend some time with a loved one, you will not be disappointed.

Finding Hemenway’s was a bit more of a problem than anticipated, as it’s located in a glass deco building which reflects a good deal of the sun and detracts from the visibility of their signs. However, once inside, you understand why the glass is worth the trouble as you look around and see views of the surrounding city from almost every seat in the house. The views are breathtaking!

Another thing of note upon entering is how visually pleasing the restaurant itself was as I was walked to the table by the warm, friendly staff and took note of the elegant table settings and attention to fine details.

What about the food and wine?

With a large and diverse menu that was obviously centered on seafood, I had no problem picking out a number of dishes I wanted to try but, in the end, I chose to start with the crab cakes (touted as a customer favorite) and, for an entree, the Hemenway’s Seafood Broil.

So let’s talk crab cakes. I find crab cakes to be something I order often because I can almost always judge a restaurant’s devotion to freshness by the meat they choose to put in their crab cakes. In this case it was very fresh and even had a mix of lobster meat, which was perceptible to the palate and really took the flavors home. The one bad thing, and the only bad part of my entire experience, as you can see from the pictures, was that the crab cakes were overdone while being fried and it made it through the pass. However, this would not stop me from giving them another chance and ordering this dish again. Every restaurant kitchen makes a mistake from time to time, and if they claim they don’t, they’re lying. The cakes were perfectly seasoned and succulent, a real winner.

As a side note, the crab cakes were served with a corn, onion and bell pepper salsa, which was really good. So simple yet so fresh and with tangy flavors that sang on my palate.

Then it was time for my entrée and, as it was set down in front of me, I could already tell it was love at first sight. Hemenway’s Seafood Broil is a mix of shrimp, scallops, and scrod topped with buttery, seasoned breadcrumbs. The smell of toasty, buttery goodness that emanated from this dish was intoxicating. It was perfectly cooked seafood with a slight crispy exterior followed by smooth, velvety meat. The ingredients were at the peak of freshness, perfectly seasoned and with a hint of cracked pepper, which added a little spicy flair. Amazing!
The wine list was a very interesting mix of current drinking and value wines, with a few high profile bottles mixed in, which provides a good balance. I’m always a little saddened to see a lack of any aged bottles for those special occasions, but there’s no lack of diversity on their list with just about every major region covered and an affordable list of 26 wines by the glass. I decided to go for a glass of the Ferrari Carano, Fume Blanc 2009 and I couldn’t have been happier.

Ferrari Carano, Fume Blanc 2009 showed floral, citrusy nose with lemon rind and a hint of butter. On the palate I found orange peel, lemon drops, and a bit of slate with brisk acidity and a citrusy fresh finish that was incredibly long.

In the end, I can see why Hemenway’s is said to have the best seafood in Providence. I know I’ll be going back on my next trip through.

To check out the website for Hemenway's, click here.

The Little Italy of Providence, Rhode Island

My first full day in Providence, Rhode Island found me walking through downtown, the historic district, and finally over to Federal Hill, Atwells Ave., which is the little Italy of Providence. Amazing to think how many times I’ve driven through Providence on my way to Boston and never realized that this wonderful little corner of Italian culture existed here. Atwells Ave. is lined with restaurants, delis, and pastry shops, all with an Italian flair. Also along this strip I found Gasbarro’s Wines, a shop with a great selection of Italian gems and rarities, which is worth stopping at all on its own.

However, it was lunch that topped it all off. Going off a recommendation from Gasbarro’s, I made my way over to Venda Ravioli, an Italian specialties shop and grocer with an attached restaurant named Costantino's Ristorante & Caffe.

Found in a little plaza off of Atwells Ave., Costantino's Venda Ravioli is a shop I would love to live near. Everything you need to create an Italian dinner, cater an event or just grab lunch can be found in Venda Ravioli, along with a small army of employees working the deli counters and an attached kitchen that prepares the foods for both Venda Ravioli as well as Costantino’s.

Upon asking about lunch, I was escorted across the courtyard to an elegant dining room overlooking the plaza. The menu was well thought out with a number of selections that tempted me, but the one that got me was the Ravioli Gigante Sorpresa. (“giant surprise”). The surprise is that they don’t tell you what’s in the ravioli, but along with the recommendation from Gasbarro’s for the restaurant came especially high praise for the ravioli.

So what was in it? In this case, it was a mix of three different fillings. One was a simple but perfectly creamy and seasoned ricotta. It was made with romano and ricotta cheese, eggs, seasoned breadcrumbs and fresh parsley. Rich and enjoyable to the last bite, it mixed perfectly with the sage butter sauce that accompanied the plate. Next was crabmeat with bitter greens. This was perfectly good on its own, but a little odd to my palate with the sage butter. Lastly, I had pumpkin ravioli, one of my absolute favorites, and this one was firing on all cylinders. Rich and creamy with a cedar spicy twang, it mixed perfectly with the sage butter.

If there was one thing that I would like to see added to this menu, it’s a larger selection of wines by the glass. However, this was a minor issue since I was perfectly happy with a simple prosecco.

I highly recommend visiting Federal Hill on your next visit or drive through Rhode Island; any lover of anything Italian will enjoy it. On to more food and wine in Providence, but I’m happy knowing that I will be returning to Atwells Ave. to attend a tasting and dinner at the Blue Grotto this weekend… More to follow.

To check out the website for Gasbarro's wines, click here. (Unfortunately, they do not have their inventory online.)

To check out the website for Costantino's Venda Ravioli, click here.