Come off the beaten path: Danny Brown

A restaurant review by Eric Guido

Beet Salad 

Assorted Beets with Fresh Goat Cheese, 

Pepper Cress & Hazelnut Vinaigrette 

It’s funny how we often lose ourselves in the restaurant game. We read about the newest and hippest place, or the restaurant edition of our favorite magazine fills our minds with all the anticipation of that perfect meal, leading to an infatuation with an establishment a state or two away—or even on the other side of the country. Sometimes we spend so much time thinking about what’s out there that we forget what’s right down the road. This year, I’ve been working hard to commit myself to my local restaurateurs, and lucky for me, there’s a burgeoning food and wine scene that’s taken shape only five minutes away from my home.

Now I don’t live in Manhattan or Williamsburg, nor do I live in Astoria or Dumbo. No, I live in Glendale, Queens, only a stones throw away from Forest Hills and some of the finest dining that Queens has to offer, but most people don’t know it yet.

Confit of Hudson Valley Moulard Duck

Red Beets, Braised Leeks, Wilted Frisée & Leek Vinaigrette 

This brings me to Danny Brown, a small corner footprint on Metropolitan Ave. and 71st drive. It wasn’t its Wine Spectator Award of Excellence or Zagat’s list of 8 top New York Wine bars which drew me there. Nor was it the Michelin star that Danny Brown received in 2011. Instead it was true word of mouth, the best kind of restaurant guide. So what kept me from Danny Brown for so long? Literally, it was my old way of thinking that my fine dining should be done in the city because of my small-minded way of thinking that the city is where everything new and interesting would be happening. What a mistake.

The calm before the storm.  Not a table
was empty when we left an hour later.

Before I go any further, it bears mentioning, with all of the praise I’m about to heap on this excellent restaurant, that my meal took place on a Sunday night. Sunday night, generally considered being one of the worst nights to dine out. Yet, you’d never know it from this experience, nor would I say it matters here, as excellence appears to be expected at all times at Danny Brown.

You have got to love dining in view
of the kitchen.  The smells and sounds
add so much depth to the experience.

I entered into an unimposing dining room, clean, precise and with an understated elegance, which immediately put me at ease. Our table overlooked the small kitchen, lending a reassurance to this establishment’s confidence in their art and form. Each chef was on display; all stations were easily in view and the calm, professionalism of each employee shone through in spades.

Marinated Seafood Salad 

Scallops, Shrimp & Squid w/ shaved Radicchio


Haricots Verts, Tarragon Pistou & Basil Aïoli

The menu was broken down into small or “bigger” plates, with an entire page dedicated to cured meats and cheeses. It was described by Danny Brown as an informal mix of French, Italian and Spanish cuisine with a blend of traditional and current cooking methods. Informal may be a descriptor used here, and I can attest to how cozy and relaxing my meal was, but the food was to die for and could be presented at some of the top-level restaurants I’ve experienced throughout my life. This isn’t what I’d expect at a country table in France—instead it’s fine dining without the pretense.

Hand Made Ricotta Gnocchi
Riesling Poached Apricots, Shaved Cucumber,
Speck & Marjoram      

The portion sizes were perfect for a multi-course dinner, and honestly, that’s the best way to enjoy this meal, because only one “bigger” plate, would only be a sinful temptation to what you would be missing. Now that I’ve dined here, my next visit will include even more plates with a group that won’t mind sharing. Each course came with a level of intensity and depth that I would expect from a Per Se tasting menu, along with a delineation of flavors, which could be perfectly blended on the fork or enjoyed one bite at a time. I am in love.

2010 Schloss Vollrads Riesling - A nose
of honeysuckle, peach skins & spring
grass.  Ripe peach, cantaloupe & citrus
rind on the palate with an acid twang.
Finishing clean and mouth-watering.

The wines list provided a perfect mix of both affordable and reserve level offerings, with a fairly priced list of wines by the glass. It wasn’t the largest tome imaginable, nor was it lacking in any way. Instead, it read like a well-stocked cellar, with a range from the young and fruity through the aged and nuanced. I had no doubt that I could find a wine for any occasion. On this evening, I chose a young 2012 Riesling with a noticeable level of residual sugar and low alcohol, perfect for a Sunday dinner for two. And the price--$45!

I left Danny Brown with a list of reasons why I must go back again and a check for two that came to a little over $200 for three courses and a bottle of wine. It was the perfect marriage of excellence, flavor, diversity, atmosphere and value. I highly recommend taking the time to come off the beaten path and enjoy this wonderful dining experience.

What’s the best seafood in Providence, Rhode Island?

Ask just about any local and the same name will be spoken time and time again: Hemenway’s, located near the historic district and overlooking the Providence River.

The walk to Hemenway’s was an experience unto itself as I crossed the waterway into the historic district of Providence and followed the water down to the restaurant. This civilian walk, which includes parks, statues, restaurants and scenic views, is a place I could see myself spending a great deal of time.

I imagine sitting on the waterfront with a good book and a glass of wine as the sun goes down. And for those seeking a romantic place to spend some time with a loved one, you will not be disappointed.

Finding Hemenway’s was a bit more of a problem than anticipated, as it’s located in a glass deco building which reflects a good deal of the sun and detracts from the visibility of their signs. However, once inside, you understand why the glass is worth the trouble as you look around and see views of the surrounding city from almost every seat in the house. The views are breathtaking!

Another thing of note upon entering is how visually pleasing the restaurant itself was as I was walked to the table by the warm, friendly staff and took note of the elegant table settings and attention to fine details.

What about the food and wine?

With a large and diverse menu that was obviously centered on seafood, I had no problem picking out a number of dishes I wanted to try but, in the end, I chose to start with the crab cakes (touted as a customer favorite) and, for an entree, the Hemenway’s Seafood Broil.

So let’s talk crab cakes. I find crab cakes to be something I order often because I can almost always judge a restaurant’s devotion to freshness by the meat they choose to put in their crab cakes. In this case it was very fresh and even had a mix of lobster meat, which was perceptible to the palate and really took the flavors home. The one bad thing, and the only bad part of my entire experience, as you can see from the pictures, was that the crab cakes were overdone while being fried and it made it through the pass. However, this would not stop me from giving them another chance and ordering this dish again. Every restaurant kitchen makes a mistake from time to time, and if they claim they don’t, they’re lying. The cakes were perfectly seasoned and succulent, a real winner.

As a side note, the crab cakes were served with a corn, onion and bell pepper salsa, which was really good. So simple yet so fresh and with tangy flavors that sang on my palate.

Then it was time for my entrée and, as it was set down in front of me, I could already tell it was love at first sight. Hemenway’s Seafood Broil is a mix of shrimp, scallops, and scrod topped with buttery, seasoned breadcrumbs. The smell of toasty, buttery goodness that emanated from this dish was intoxicating. It was perfectly cooked seafood with a slight crispy exterior followed by smooth, velvety meat. The ingredients were at the peak of freshness, perfectly seasoned and with a hint of cracked pepper, which added a little spicy flair. Amazing!
The wine list was a very interesting mix of current drinking and value wines, with a few high profile bottles mixed in, which provides a good balance. I’m always a little saddened to see a lack of any aged bottles for those special occasions, but there’s no lack of diversity on their list with just about every major region covered and an affordable list of 26 wines by the glass. I decided to go for a glass of the Ferrari Carano, Fume Blanc 2009 and I couldn’t have been happier.

Ferrari Carano, Fume Blanc 2009 showed floral, citrusy nose with lemon rind and a hint of butter. On the palate I found orange peel, lemon drops, and a bit of slate with brisk acidity and a citrusy fresh finish that was incredibly long.

In the end, I can see why Hemenway’s is said to have the best seafood in Providence. I know I’ll be going back on my next trip through.

To check out the website for Hemenway's, click here.