Can Paolo Bea Solve The Montefalco Paradox

I'm thinking about Italian wine, from north to south, about all of the great reds that come to mind.

Only ten years ago, Barolo, Brunello and a smattering of Super Tuscans, were the handful of wines that could lay claim to international renown. Back then, the wines of Etna were in their infant stages, and Taurasi had proven itself only to the insiders, collectors and Italophiles that took the time to understand and embrace it. Chianti Classico was still associated with pizza parlors, and Barbaresco was nothing more than the little sister to Barolo. However, all of that has changed in recent years. No longer do we need to make excuses for Aglianico in the south, explain the value of Sicily, or make the case for Barbaresco’s unique attributes. As for Chianti, its popularity has exploded, and it’s now giving Brunello a run for its money.

However, there is one wine that you’ve probably heard rumblings of, that hasn’t risen to the occasion, and that’s Sagrantino.

So the question is, why?

This big, gusty, structured red seemed to have everything going for it: hailing from a classic, hilltop medieval village, able to age and mature for decades, and championed by a winery that had won multiple awards for their wines, which put Montefalco on the map.

So why are we not celebrating the elevation of the Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG into the same company of Barolo, Brunello, Turasi and the like?

In my opinion, it’s not the small size of the vineyards planted, the gripping tannins that Sagrantino is known for, or a lack of marketing. No; in my opinion, it’s the winemaking.

In an attempt to make Sagrantino more palatable for the average consumer, or international consumer, the majority of winemakers continue to age their wines in new oak. Even the world-renowned Arnaldo Caprai winery, and their award-winning 25 Anni, represents what is possible when Sagrantino has been tamed, or sheathed, in a cloak of French Barrique. I consider this to be a horrible shame when you consider that of all of the producers in Montefalco, Caprai should have the raw materials to make some of the greatest expressions of varietal wine in the region. Here we have one of the first wineries to take Sagrantino seriously, going as far back as 1971, eight years prior to the creation of the Montefalco DOC. Caprai brought vineyard analysis and clonal research to a region that was filled with farmers who made local wines for local palates. Their success has a lot to do with why so many other producers continue to make Sagrantino in this “international” style.

However, there is still hope for Sagrantino--I haven’t given up on its ability to produce one of the greatest wines in Italy, and the reason why is Paolo Bea.

Before I get too deeply into how Paolo Bea has proven Sagrantino’s worth to me, let’s first delve a bit into what makes the raw materials in Montefalco so precious in the first place.

Located in the landlocked region of Umbria, Montefalco (or “falcon mountain”) suffers from being surrounded by some pretty serious “wine-related” neighbors. With Tuscany to the northwest, Marche to the northeast, Lazio to the southwest, and Abruzzo extremely close in the southeast, Umbria and Sagrantino compete with the popular Sangiovese, Aglianico and Montepulciano grapes. That said, two things that Umbria has been able to claim fame to are production of top-shelf olive oils and black truffles from Norcia.

However, they also have a perfect terroir for the production of world-class red wine.

The DOC and DOCGs of Montefalco and Sagrantino sit in a basin, surrounded by the Apennines mountains, growing in soils rich in clay with a mix of sand and limestone. However, as you push into higher elevations, rising up to 1500 feet, you’ll also find clay-calcrete, an almost cement-like blend of clay, gravel, sand, and silt, making it difficult for vines to survive, but as they say, the strong always do. The region is warm yet moderated by winds coming down from the Apennines, along with Meditarainan influences carried across the Tiber river.

Sagrantino, renowned for both its deep red color, but also powerful tannins, can be difficult to tame. In fact, going back centuries, Sagrantino’s first leading role was in the production of sweet wines, where their power and broad tannins would be balanced by rich textures and riper fruit developed through Passito (air-drying the grapes). There is also Sangiovese, as Umbria sits in the heart of the Sangiovese belt, producing, what is, in my opinion, a spicier version than their neighbors, with grippier tannins to help set them apart. These two grapes make up the lion’s share of red grapes produced in Montefalco.

The DOC Rosso di Montefalco is composed primarily of Sangiovese from 60-80% with a minimum of 10% Sagrantino and other red varieties. While the DOCG, Sagrantino di Montefalco must be 100% Sagrantino, a grape whose intensity of color is only matched by its intensity of tannic bite--which brings us back to Paolo Bea, one of the few producers I know of that age their wine entirely in large, neutral wood, and yet manage to create wines that require aging, but are also impossible to ignore in their youth. In my opinion, this should be the benchmark of the region.

The Paolo Bea Paradigm

What keeps Paolo Bea flying under the radar is a combination of low quantity, no desire to market themselves, and an unwillingness to submit wines for review to the press, which sounds quite a bit like another producer who I have often compared them to: Giuseppe Quintarelli.

Giampiero Bea

The history of the Bea family is closely tied to Montefalco, going back as far as the 16th century. This is a family of farmers who have cultivated olives, grains, vegetables and grapes since the beginning, maintaining a wholly natural ecosystem, which is focused on the fruits that nature provides them. There is no winemaking wizardry and no chemicals in the vineyard or winery. Instead, it’s a complete respect for what each vintage brings to the table, and the Bea family’s desire to bottle that expression, capturing the essence of terroir, without taking anything away. This approach has obviously worked, as vintage after vintage, whether it was warm, dry, wet, abundant, short or simply perfect, presents something pleasurable to the senses. What’s more, supply could never fill the demand that has been created for the wines, and the family has no interest in expanding. Instead, the current generation, represented by Giampiero and Giuseppe, continues to work their 5 hectares of vineyards by hand, choosing to only use only ⅓ of their 15-hectare property for the production of grapes, even though they could easily continue planting to expand. Their vineyards occupy the higher elevations of Montefalco terroir, reaching up to 1500 feet above sea level, and taking advantage of a diverse mix of soils. It’s here that they have begun to vineyard-designate their lineup of Sagrantino, to further accentuate the esteemed terroir of the region.

In the winery, gentle macerations and slow fermentations can last from three weeks to as many as seven, before the wine is placed into steel tanks for a year to rest, and then large neutral wood for up to two years. At this point, the wines are bottled without filtration and extremely low, if any, added sulfur, and left to rest for another year. This process is a long, painstaking effort that is extremely costly to the producer as well, and it results in the 2012 vintage being their current release, seven years after harvest.

Paolo Bea with his grandson

However, the proof is in every bottle of Paolo Bea. Don’t get me wrong; this is natural winemaking in the extreme, and as a result you’ll sometimes find some volatility or a large amount of sediment. However, for every slightly off bottle of Paolo Bea, there are ten more that are otherworldly, kaleidoscopic, ethereal examples of what Sagrantino and Sangiovese are capable of from Umbria. The fact is, once you taste a Paolo Bea Sagrantino, you’ll be asking yourself why more producers aren’t trying to replicate their processes. However, just like the wines of Giuseppe Quintarelli, it’s almost impossible to recreate such a perfect union between terroir, wine, and family.

Yet, I wonder why other producers don’t seem open to trying.

Here is the rub: in a time when the majority of consumers are looking for more varietal purity, less “wine making”, and the ability to observe a “sense of place” from each bottle of wine, how can Sagrantino ever become the next great Italian red, as most wineries continue to produce it in a contradictory fashion?

As for Paolo Bea, I’ve been a fan for many years now, going back to the 2003 vintage, and I thought it was about time that I checked in on some of the current releases and maturing vintages, to not only give myself a good idea of where the wines are going, but to also share the results with our readers. I focused on the reds, but it’s also important to mention that Bea excels with white wines as well (a story for another time). It also pays to mention that Bea excels in both warm and cool vintages, lending very different expressions of place, but as I already said--it’s about what Mother Nature gives, not what they make of it.

Enjoy!

On to the Tasting Notes.

The San Valentino vineyard hosts 50-year-old vines, planted in soils dominated by clay. It sits at 1300 feet altitude and creates Bea’s open-knit expression that is amazing upon release but also matures for up to a decade in the cellar. The composition is 70% Sangiovese, 15% Sagrantino, and 15% Montepulciano.

2012 Paolo Bea Umbria San Valentino - What an incredible bouquet on the 2012 San Valentino. It comes in at 1.5% less ABV than the previous vintage and shows depths of dark, earthy, almost animal-like complexities. Here I found balsamic spice over dried strawberries, with moist dark soil tones, crushed lava stone, dusty dried florals, and hints of brown sugar. On the palate, silky textures flooded the senses with flavors of sour cherry, tangerine, savory spice, and masses of exotic inner florals, as zesty acids made the mouth water, while concentrated tart red fruits and hints of tannin tugged at the side of my cheeks. The finish was long, zesty, spicy, and tart, yet still so energetic, as the wine’s vibrant acids refused to give in to the intensity within. The result was a spellbinding and tactile experience that is impossible not to like, and it’s easily one of my favorite vintages to date for San Valentino. (93 points)

The Cerrete vineyard sits at the highest point in Montefalco, between 1300 and 1500 feet above sea level. The soil is clay and limestone-infused with small pebbles from an ancient riverbed, and used to create Bea’s most ethereal yet complex Sagrantino. However, the Bea family also produces the Rosso de Veo from the young vines here. Frankly, you’d be amazed that these are “young” vines.

2011 Paolo Bea Rosso de Véo - It's amazing to think that this is Paolo Bea's "young vine" bottling of the Cerrete vineyard, as it shows so much intensity, yet balance as well. Here I found a rich and seductive bouquet of crushed raspberry, dried cherries, smoke, dried red florals, spice box, hints of undergrowth, and animal musk. On the palate, silky textures unfolded to reveal black cherry, made vibrant through zesty acids, with a mix of spicy florals, tongue-curling notes of tangerine, cinnamon, and some of the best managed Sagrantino tannins I have ever experienced. The finish was amazingly long, as raspberry and cherry tones seemed to linger for two to three minutes, along with sweet and savory spices, minerals, inner florals, and a hint of tannin. This is a gorgeous wine that may have been helped by the warmer vintage, yet it achieved something very special nonetheless. I can't wait to taste the 2011 Cerrete. (93 points)

The Pipparello vineyard is a hilltop site in Montefalco at 1300 feet above sea level. The soil is clay and gravel. Here, the Bea family farms varying percentages (depending on vintage) around 60% Sangiovese, 25% Montepulciano, and 15% Sagrantino to produce their Montefalco Rosso.

2011 Paolo Bea Montefalco Rosso Riserva Pipparello - The nose was dark and brooding, as masses of balsamic-infused black cherries, sweet herbs, brown (almost, curry-like) spices, fresh tobacco, and sweet minerals lifted from the glass. On the palate, I found silky textures, which caressed the senses, just as a wave of tart cherry mixed with zesty acids, minerals and tannin set in, creating a cheek-puckering experience. The finish was incredibly long and structured, with continued intensity from the palate, as grippy tannin held firm against notes of tart cherry fruit, black tea, spice, and minerals. Pipparello is a massive and towering wine in this vintage, with a tight finish, yet a lovely note of sweet red berries lingered for minutes on the back palate.

It's a serious "experience wine" that just needs a few more years to come together. I, for one, can't wait to see how it matures. (94 points)

2008 Paolo Bea Montefalco Rosso Riserva Pipparello - The nose was dark and brooding with masses of dried black cherry and cedar up front; yet beneath it, notes of exotic spice, tobacco, dried flowers, crushed raspberry, and undergrowth gained volume and depth with time in the glass, until they permeated the senses entirely. On the palate, I found soft, silky textures, which seemed to hover on the senses, offset by a tart acid core, yet also complemented by enveloping bittersweet cherry, quinine, spice, and inner earth tones. The finish was incredibly long with saturating dried cherry fruit, sweet inner florals, hints of gruff tannin--yet juicy and fresh, with a note of hard red candies and licorice which seemed to literally last for minutes on the mid-palate. (93 points)

2005 Paolo Bea Montefalco Rosso Riserva Pipparello - The 2005 Paolo Bea Pipparello Riserva showed a bouquet of ripe crushed cherry and raspberry, infused with dried orange, exotic spice, and dusty sweet florals, before evolving to show undergrowth, savory herbs and hints of animal musk. On the palate, I found soft textures offset by brisk acids, as fleshy, zesty red fruits caressed the senses, giving way to a mix of savory spice and cheek-puckering minerality. The finish was long, with a tart twang of red berry fruit and acids, as hints of lingering tannin faded against a backdrop of inner florals. (94 points)

2003 Paolo Bea Montefalco Rosso Riserva Pipparello - The nose was dark and savory, showing ripe plum, crushed black cherry, sage, cherry tobacco, balsamic spice, cumin, and hints of licorice. On the palate, silky, yet remarkably fresh textures, gave way to zesty spiced cherry with energizing acidity, sweet and savory spices, herbs, and florals which reminded me of childhood Christmas with hints of lingering tannin. The finish was long and fresh, as zesty acids created a mouthwatering experience, coupled with resonating cherry and spices. It's amazing to think that this is the product of a warm vintage. (92 points)

The Pagliaro vineyard is situated at 1300 feet in altitude, and it is dedicated in large part to Sagrantino. This is the location that produces Bea’s flagship Sagrantino.

2012 Paolo Bea Sagrantino di Montefalco Secco Pagliaro - The ‘12 Pagliaro showed depths of red berry fruit with balsamic spice, crushed plum, sweet herbs, black licorice, dark earth, and a hint of volatility on the nose. On the palate, silky textures gave way to concentrated tart black and red fruits, as dark mineral tones, savory spice, and notes of black tea soaked the senses, while mounting tannin quickly dried them out. The finish was long, structured, and almost chewy, showing gripping tannin with lingering dried black cherry, saline minerals, and savory herbs in an imposing expression of Sagrantino. I can only imagine a decade or more until the 2012 reaches maturity, yet I believe it’s worth the wait, as the wine is poised like a bomb waiting to explode. (95 points)

2011 Paolo Bea Sagrantino di Montefalco Secco Pagliaro - The nose was dark and intense, leaning toward earth tones yet with a massive wave of crushed black cherry to balance it. With time in the glass, cherry seemed to change to ripe strawberry, as sweet spices, smoky minerals, tobacco, and woodland earth tones joined the mix. On the palate, soft, caressing textures washed effortlessly across the senses, with a graceful lift I’ve seldom experienced, showing a combination of both ripe and tart red fruits, herbal tea notes, sweet inner florals, and exotic spice, all kept lively through brisk acidity. The finish was dry and long, exposing the large-scale Sagrantino tannins I had expected, yet there was a soft edge to them here, making the experience both structured yet enjoyable at this stage. Dried black cherries lingered, as well as minerals, a hint of orange citrus, and lovely inner florals, as a sweet note of red candies seemed to resonate for well over a minute. (94 points)

2005 Paolo Bea Sagrantino di Montefalco Secco Pagliaro - The nose displayed fresh mineral intensity and moist, dark earth tones up front, evolving to show savory brown spices over ripe black cherry, backed by wild herbs and a hint of animal musk. On the palate, velvety textures flooded the senses with waves of dark red fruits, yet firmed up as brisk acids settled in, unveiling savory herbal tones and a tart twang of peppery spice; yet through it all, grippy tannin slowly gained strength. The finish was long and structured, yet its resonating acids allowed the '05 Pagliaro to sign off on a "early maturity" note, as lingering cherry and spice slowly faded amidst dried inner florals. (94 points)

Credits and Resources

Article, Tasting notes and bottle photos by Eric Guido

Special thank you to Rosenthal Wine Merchants, and Blake Johnson for use of family and vineyard photos.

Click to visit the official Paolo Bea website.

Year in Review: Top 10 wines of 2011

It’s that time again.  2011 is coming to a close, and the holidays are in full swing.  I’m sorting through recipes for Christmas Eve, Christmas parties and New Year’s bashes.  However, before I get too deep into things, I love to look back over the past year and my 500+ tasting notes for my top ten wines.  This isn’t a list that’s built through politicking or overthinking the subject.  Instead, these are my favorite ten wines of the year in three categories; mid-priced gems, top shelf wines and vintages wines.  You may notice that I don’t have a value wine section, but that’s because my article “Give the gift of wine for Christmas” spells out the best value wines I’ve had this year.

Looking over this list, I’m not surprised to see such a large representation made by Italian wines.  Italian wine was my first love in life, and it continues to amaze me for both quality and value.  Nowhere else can such world-class wine be had for the relative value Italian wines represent.  However, I’m also very happy to see wines from Germany, Spain and California.

Top Mid-priced Wines

Each of these bottles delivers the goods in spades, and if you compared how good they are, against how much they cost, then you’d see that each of them is a relative value.  This is the sweet spot where I find my most enjoyable drinking, because they perform beautifully, but won’t break the bank.  Give one of these to your boss for Christmas or New Year’s, and there would be no shame.

2006 Piaggia Carmignano Riserva - The nose showed ripe black cherry, herbal fruit tea, leather, and dusty potpourri.  On the palate, it was as soft as silk and flowed effortlessly across the senses.  It was structured yet elegant with unmistakable Tuscan character and flavors of black cherry juice, mixed herbs and sweet spices.  The finish lasted, showing red fruits with the slightest bitter character.  The Carmignano Riserva walks the line between sex appeal and restraint, and the result is something magical.  Give it an hour to decant, and let this beauty dazzle you. (95 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2007 Vietti Barbera d'Asti La Crena -The nose showed crushed blackberry and plum, along with a hint of undergrowth and a dark toasty note.  On the palate, a rich, velvety wave of dark fruits swept across the senses with bitter dark chocolate. The intense fruit and zesty acidity cloaked this wine’s imposing structure, which was most noticeable on the long mouth-puckering finish. I am eager to see what this wine will mature into. (94 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2009 Ridge Zinfandel Pagani Ranch - The nose was massive, as aromas of wild berries, dry coco, vanilla, ginger spice and savory notes filled the senses.  On the palate, it was medium to full-bodied with amazing focus to its intense red berry fruit and spice.  The masses of fruit slowly gave way to show this wine’s structure and balance.  The finish was long and clinging to the palate, yet ultimately refreshing as the tannins faded away.  I seriously enjoyed this structured Zinfandel and am very happy to have more in my cellar, as I can imagine that it will get even better with time. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2009 Peter Lauer Ayler Kupp Riesling Senior Faß 6 - The nose showed lime, green apple, white flowers and wet rocks.  It was simple yet perfectly enjoyable.  However, on the palate, this wine came to life, with rich and concentrated grapefruit, sweet lemon curd, which then turned to acid, minerals and stone--but then went back to sweetness into the long citrus finish.  This wine kept me guessing what each new sip would reveal.  It was amazingly fresh and enjoyable. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Top Shelf Wines

Sometimes the occasion calls for the best wines, and the ones listed below are sure to please.  These are wines that some may refer to as “collectable.”  However, I prefer to call them highly drinkable.  These are bottles that will blow away the competition and leave no survivors.  They may cost a pretty penny, but they’re worth every red cent.

2006 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio - The 2006 Il Poggio was Tuscany personified, as aromas of animal musk, spice, wild berries and forest notes wafted up from the glass.  On the palate, this wine showed wild red berries and autumnal notes with a mouth-feel of pure silk.  The finish was long in sour berry and spice. (94 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2007 Arnaldo-Caprai Sagrantino di Montefalco 25 Anni - On the nose, this wine was a monster with raspberry, holiday spices and dark forest notes.  It verged on sweet, but something animal about this Sagrantino pulled it back to reality.  On the palate, a massive wave of concentration was turned fresh by vibrant acidity, as blackberry jam, pomegranate, cinnamon and herbs washed across the tongue like silk.  The finish showed this wine’s intimidating structure, as velvety tannin coated the mouth.  The Arnaldo Caprai 25 Anni is highly enjoyable now and will likely age into something magical. (96 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2001 Tommaso Bussola Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Tb - At first, the nose showed black cherries with dark chocolate and tobacco; however, as it opened up in the glass, aromas of herbs and seared meat in a buttery crust filled the nose.  It was all at once a sweet and savory intoxicating bouquet.  On the palate, it was full with a hint of sweetness, as macerated cherry, rum raisin and Christmas spice lingered into a long and pleasing finish.  This may be made in a rich and sweet style, but it still manages to glide effortlessly across the palate with perfect balance and a graceful finish. (95 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Top Vintage Wines

If you’re anything like me, then it’s the older vintage wines that truly make cellaring wine worthwhile.  Don’t get me wrong; I love young wines, but if there were a choice, I’d grab a 20+-year-old Barolo any day.  These are all wines older than ten years that truly made me stop and take notice in 2011.

1990 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda - This wine was everything I ever wanted in a glass of Barolo.  It was sweet yet sour, earthy yet fruity and rich yet with razor-like focus.  The nose showed masses of ripe red berries with hot dried spices, gravelly moist earth, mushroom and hints of green stems.  On the palate, this showed silky, sweet, ripe strawberry, yet it also had a savory warmth, full of earth, menthol and leather strap on a beautifully structured frame.  It was amazing how young the Collina Rionda seemed as silky tannin washed across the palate and soothed me into a long, seductive finish that begged for the next sip. (98 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

1990 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Valbuena 5° - The 1990 Vega-Sicilia wowed me with its rich yet elegant personality.  The nose showed cherry preserves and cranberry with hints of clove, vanilla and burnt sugar.  However, with how rich and young the nose seemed, there was an underlying earthiness and hint of musky animal fur that truly kept it interesting.  On the palate, it was elegant, with a velvety feel on the tongue as flavors of rich red then black fruits and dusty spices assaulted the senses.  The finish was long and turned from juicy to sour as the fruit faded away. (96 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2000 Mastroberardino Taurasi Radici Riserva - The nose showed beautifully with ripe strawberry and potpourri; yet as the wine sat in the glass, it turned darker and fuller with notes of candle wax, earth, mushrooms and moist fall leaves.  On the palate, this wine was eloquent and soft at first but turned more tannic into the finish.  The senses were wrapped with penetrating black fruit, followed by minerals and a taste of older wood, which gave it a bit of a rustic feel.  The finish was laden with intense cranberry fruit, giving it a really nice sendoff.  This wine is just starting to show its age, yet still has many more years to go before its structure truly softens. (95 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

An Umbrian spin on Sangiovese

Tonight I took a break from tasting new wines. It had been a long day and I needed to stack the deck. I needed a wine that would not let me down, a wine that I had been saving for a day like today. Tonight, I opened a bottle of Paolo Bea.

The last time I talk about Paolo Bea was in my piece “Paolo Bea: A legacy in the making”. My opinions have not changed. These are amazing wines that, I believe, will one day stand shoulder-to-shoulder with the biggest names in Italy. Tonight's bottle was the 2003 Paolo Bea Montefalco Rosso Riserva Vigna Pipparello, from the region of Umbria. It's a blend made primarily from Sangiovese (60%) with Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (25%) and Sagrantino (15%).  If you love Brunello or top-shelf Chianti Classico, then this is a bottle that you must seek out.

The 2003 Paolo Bea Montefalco Rosso Riserva Vigna Pipparello came across as slightly more mature than expected, yet stunning none-the-less and with many years of fine drinking ahead of it. Coming from a perfectly stored bottle and tasted over the course of a number of hours. It was wonderfully soft and sweet on the palate with a haunting bouquet that pulled me in. Paolo Bea continues to impress me and it’s a wonder that this winery isn’t on the A-lists of more Italian wine lovers.

Keep an eye out for a recipe for
Pizzoccheri Valtellinesi on Whats Cookin'

It was enjoyed with a plate of Pizzoccheri Valtellinesi, which is a recipe I’ve been trying to master for a few weeks now. It’s seriously stick-to-your-ribs, home-style, Northern Italian cooking with fresh buckwheat pasta, cabbage, potatoes and onions, in a Fontina and sage butter sauce. Sounds easy right? Well, I’ve been having trouble getting right until—today. It was awesome and the Paolo Bea made it really shine.

2003 Paolo Bea Montefalco Rosso Riserva Vigna Pipparello - The nose showed intense black cherry, cinnamon stick, and chalky minerals with notes of mushroom and forest floor. On the palate, sweet ripe cherry enveloped the senses, like a sweet and savory sauce with beefy notes and clove spice, adding complexities. With each sip, I was tempted to take another. It was soft as silk yet weightless on the palate with high-toned red fruit, hints of mint and herbal tea on the finish. (94 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

As much as I love Wine-searcher, sometimes an individual retailer deserves the spotlight: Vinopolis Wine Shop in Portland Oregon has a great selection of Paolo Bea wines. They also carry an excellent selection of wines from around the world, along with some of the most highly sought after Italian wines you could hope to find. If you're interested in exploring the the wines of Paolo Bea, this is a great place to start.

Food and Wine in Winter 2011

With a whirlwind of events, tastings and travels, I realized that it’s been quite some time since I sat down and thought about making mention of the food work I’ve had published and some of the killer wines that I’ve tasted in the last few months. February through April brought The V.I.P. Table a heavy workload and there’s much more to come. Also, I’d like to thank all of my readers who have allowed this small website to grow into a 3500+ monthly readership. I’m always open to comments and I welcome any opinions. So please feel free to drop me a line and let me know what you love or hate about The V.I.P. Table.

So on to “Food and Wine in Winter 2011”

Pumpkin Risotto

Nostalgia is a powerful tool in the chef’s arsenal. It’s a direct line to the hearts and minds of your guests. It's that smell from mama’s kitchen. It's that flavor, which will always remind you of home. Or that memory of togetherness around a family table, the food you ate and the happy memories you shared. Would it surprise you to know that nostalgia is a topic taught in culinary school? Well it is, and for very good reason because with nostalgia you can create a dish that will not only taste divine, but also speaks to the diner’s soul. That’s how pumpkin risotto ended up on my menu.

Read the full article and recipe: What’s Cookin’

Braised Pork Shoulder in Chianti Sauce

Braised Pork Shoulder in Chianti Sauces is amazing dish that will thrill your guests. The sauce balances richness with complex woodsy notes and vibrant acidity. It is transcendent, yet elegant and light on its feet. It’s one of those sauces that you feel could be poured over anything and never get boring. The pork is succulent, falls apart on the fork and nearly melts in your mouth.

Read the full article and recipe: What’s Cookin’

Calamari in Zimino

It's amazing how different traditional Italian food is from what most Americans grew up to believe it to be. The Sunday sauces and everything parmigiana that we grew up with are a far stretch from what you find throughout the majority of Italy. From north to south, the cuisine of Italia changes just as much as its geography, traditions and wines.

However, for the most part, one thing remains the same throughout Italy: the cuisine is based on simple recipes made great through the quality of the ingredients and the deft, passionate hand of the person who is making the dish. Calamari in Zimino is a perfect example of this.

Read the full article and recipe: What’s Cookin’

As for the wines, I don’t remember the last time that I had so many fantastic wines to choose from when writing an overview piece such as this. The wines below run the gambit of top shelf crowd pleasers to affordable daily drinkers; from Italy, Chile and the United States. There’s seriously something for everyone.

2009 Casa Silva Carménère Reserva - On the nose, I found blackberry, chalk dust, green bell pepper and manure. On the palate, it was big yet balanced, showing wild berries, more green pepper leading to a cough syrup like finish. Looking back on my notes, I feel as if these descriptors fail to do this wine justice. The fact is, it was highly enjoyable in a gripping and earthy way and an amazing value. (92 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

2010 Errazuriz Sauvignon Blanc Estate - The nose showed lemon with fresh cut grass, minerals and a bit of nuttiness. On the palate, this was mouth-filling with sour grapefruit, lime, minerals, and green apple. The finish was long with sour patch citrus fruits. Not only was this Sauvignon Blanc refreshing and full of varietal character, it is also an awesome value. (90 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

2008 Larkmead Vineyards Firebelle - The nose showed black currant, cherry liquor, spice, brown sugar and a hint of fresh-turned soil. On the palate, it was velvety smooth and luxuriant as it filled the senses with flavors of blackberry jam, cherry wood and spice. The finish was exceptionally long with blackberry and currant fruit, yet fresh and begging for another sip. Larkmead has quickly become one of my favorite producers from the Napa Valley and one sip from these luxurious, yet refined wines will make a believer out of anyone. (94 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

2000 Arnaldo-Caprai Sagrantino di Montefalco 25 Anni - The nose showed black cherries with vanilla sugar, cola and Christmas spices. On the palate, it was massive, bold, yet vibrant--balanced with a flavor profile that I could only described as dark chocolate covered cherries in sweet cream, yet bone dry. This wine was luxurious and smooth all the way to the long palate-coating finish. (95 points) Fine it: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Schäfer-Fröhlich Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Großes Gewächs - The nose showed lemon, pear, spice and sage with hints of floral undergrowth. On the palate, this was beautifully balanced with piercing acidity, showing citrus, honey dew, minerals and stone. The finish was remarkably fresh with linger notes of grapefruit and herbs. (94 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

2006 Azienda Agricola Montevertine Le Pergole Torte Toscana IGT - The nose showed dusty bright cherry, leather and cinnamon. On the palate, I found focused red fruit, floral notes and savory roasted meats with impeccable balance and a level of fresh acidity that invites you to take another sip. The finish was fresh and long with sour red fruits. At this time, the Le Pergole Torte remains restrained by its fine structure but should be a dream of a wine in five plus years. (93 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

Paolo Bea: A legacy in the making.

I will be the first to admit that when I taste wines that cost more than the average consumer is willing to spend, I often leave the experience feeling that the wine was simply not worth it. In fact, I feel that the collecting of premium bottles is something of a crapshoot. It’s a lot like stocks; you do all the research on the winery, look at their past track record, take into account what they're doing with their product today, TASTE, and THEN decide to buy. What that wine will taste like, 10 years down the road, is the crapshoot of collecting wine. We are all making the best educated guess that we can. With experience, I believe, this becomes easier and I am happy to admit that there are many others out there with much more experience who I listen to intently when they speak on wine.
Today, however, I want to share a producer’s wines with you that are easily worth the price you pay. First, a disclaimer; the most affordable of these bottles averages at $27, but I will go on record that if there is one thing that you take from this article (whether affordable means $50 or $15 to you), it’s that you should go out and find this bottle. It is simply stunning.

The winery is Paolo Bea from Umbria, Italy. Umbria is a land-lock region in the heart of Italy with history dating back before Roman times. The three most interesting grape varieties of the region are Sangiovese, Sangrantino and Grechetto. Sangiovese, which most people associate with Tuscany, is highly regarded in Umbria, and is the primary grape used to make Montefalco rosso. Sagrantino, a truly indigenous grape of Umbria, is a thick-skinned and intensely flavored variety, which is now turning out deep, rich, complex wines that posses the ability to age. Grechetto is a white variety with unique flavors and weight on the palate, which adds complexity and a special sense of place to many of the blends it is added to.

I was first introduced to Paolo Bea through the wine, Sagrantino di Montefalco. My first Sangrantino experience was love at first sight, but not a Bea wine. After tasting this Sagrantino, I immediately called my trusted cellar consultant at Italian Wine Merchants and was told that it gets even better. Enter: Paolo Bea.

Paolo Bea is a family run, fully sustainable farm, which produces wine, olive oil, fruits, and vegetables. Using bio-dynamic principals and the wine-making style taught to them through generations, Paolo Bea turns out some of the most wonderfully unique wines I have ever tasted. The wines are truly Italian in their sly, mesmerizing and almost sexy style. They tempt you to keep sipping as layers unfold and hint at what’s next to come. Sometimes bone-dry with remarkably fresh, mouth-watering acidity, and other times sweet, serious, deep, dark and delicious. Each bottle is an experience that is imprinted in your memory.

On to the wines:

Paolo Bea Bianco Santa Chiara Umbria IGT 2006

The Santa Chiara is a blend of Grechetto, Malvasia, Sauvignon Blanc, Garganega and Chardonnay. After crushing, the grapes spend over 20 days in contact with the skins which gives the wine a rich, deep golden color. This is a full-bodied white that somehow reminds me of mead in weight and color. However, the nose and palate is all about finesse and complexity. Its price tag can be a bit hard to swallow, but if it’s exploration you’re looking, then you must try this wine.

My notes: A gorgeous golden, amber color. Aromas of fresh strawberries and a hint of lemon rind rises from the glass. Then, fresh cut grass and honeysuckle comes to the fore as the wine warms above cellar temp. It’s a medium-to-full bodied white with flavors of peach, melon and hazelnut. This unique bottle could be mistaken for a red if tasted blind. The wine closes with a beautiful fresh finish. (88 pts.)

Paolo Bea Montefalco Rosso SanValentino 2006

This is it, the must try, found for under $30/bottle that continues to haunt my dreams. 2006 was a very different year for this bottle, which is usually released as Vigna San Valentino and for twice the price. In Italy, a wine applying for a DOC or DOCG classification must be submitted to a governing entity and, in this case, that governing entity decided that the color of this wine, as well as the oxidized notes they found in it, disqualified it from the DOC. So, instead, Paolo Bea decided to release it as an Umbria Rosso and drastically reduce the price. Understand that there is nothing wrong with this wine. If anything, it is a perfect example of the depths that can be reached by biodynamic wine-making in Umbria. It is a gorgeous wine that displays a yin yang effect with its bone-dry performance on the front palate, followed by a rush of mouth-watering acidity on the mid-palate and into the finish. The fruit is rich and vibrant with layers of complexity. This is a $65 bottle of wine; which is being sold for under $30. No joke.

My notes: The nose is very floral at first with candied red fruit, ash and undergrowth. On the palate, the first thing I noticed was how initially dry it was, but then my senses were bombarded with sweet cranberry and pepper, along with grape jelly on the velvety mid-palate, which washed away to a tannic yet not too dry finish. This is a gorgeous bottle of wine and, at the price, well worth buying a few to enjoy over time. It plays a balancing act between ripeness and acidity with a kiss of dry extract. I will not forget this bottle for a long time to come. (93 pts.)

Click here to find this wine on Wine-Searcher.

Paolo Bea Sagrantino di Montefalco Secco 2003

This is the second time this wine has been covered in these pages. So I won’t go too deeply into it other than to say that this is the most enjoyable bottle of Sagrantino that I have yet tasted. Understand that there are many other producers of Sagrantino worth searching for, Arnaldo Caprai comes to mind. However, Bea manages to achieve something with his Sagrantino that’s hard to put into words. This wine is literally mysterious as it pulls you in and is constantly changing. The balance is remarkable. I’ve heard comparisons between Paolo Bea and Quinatarelli (master of the Veneto); this is the wine that can convince you.

My notes: The 2003 Paolo Bea, Sagrantino di Montefalco showed a gorgeous deep red crimson color in the glass. As I poured, an aroma of candied cherry filled the air. With a little time in the glass, the rich fruit transformed into a Burgundian expression red fruit with earth and clay. Dusty dried flowers filled out the bouquet along with, as a few tasters noted, hints of sausage, which gave the nose a savory edge. The palate followed suit with flavors of raspberry, coffee, chocolate liquor and old cedar. The finish was long with staying dark chocolate and red fruit. (94 pts.)

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1999 Paolo Bea Sagrantino di Montefalco Passito

Sagrantino’s roots in Umbria are as a sweet passito wine, which is made by partially drying the grapes before crushing (think reccieto del valpolicella). I will admit that I believe I would have scored this wine higher if I had treated it better prior to serving. When drinking this wine, I would suggest you stand the bottle up at least 24 hours prior to serving and pull the cork at least four hours prior.

My notes: Floral and a bit porty on the nose with hints of cedar and raspberry jam. Medium ruby color and deceptively light, causing you to expect something lean and dry but then, on your first sip, you're hit with intense, sweet fig, candied ginger and chocolate. The sweetness is not overwhelming and perfectly balanced with fruit and acidity, leaving you with a fresh, medium finish. Amazing to think what this will taste like in a decade or two. Decant to remove the large amount of sediment in this bottle (89 pts.)

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These four wines make up only half of this winery’s portfolio, and I’m still working my way through the others, yet to be disappointed. Next up for me is the Arboreus, a wine that is made from vines that are over 100 years old and from a rare varietal named Trebbiano Spoletino.

The word excitement doesn’t do justice to the way I feel before opening a new wine from Paolo Bea, and I hope that this article convinced you too that they are worth a try. I’ll be sure to post more tasting notes soon.