Pumpkin Risotto: Perfect Autumn Comfort Food

A Recipe & Pairing by: Eric Guido

What is it about pumpkin and how each time I serve it, it makes people swoon? Nostalgia.

Nostalgia is a powerful tool in the chef’s arsenal. It’s a direct line to the hearts and minds of your guests. It's that smell from mama’s kitchen. It's that flavor, which will always remind you of home. Or that memory of togetherness around a family table, the food you ate and the happy memories you shared. Would it surprise you to know that nostalgia is a topic taught in culinary school? Well it is, and for very good reason because with nostalgia you can create a dish that will not only taste divine, but also speaks to the diner’s soul. That’s how pumpkin risotto ended up on my menu.

Pumpkin risotto is an extremely versatile dish that combines sweet earthy flavors with rich, creamy textures and a salty, spicy snap at the end of each bite. The pumpkin adds a weight to the palate that takes this from being just another rice dish to becoming a centerpiece of the meal. It’s warming and speaks to that part of us that loves home cooking, yet it easily translates well into fine dining.

When it comes to a wine pairing, you could go with an earthy Italian white with brisk acidity or a Barbera, but I wanted something a little different and I’m glad I chose the route of exploration. Ever since I first developed this recipe, I've been looking for an opportunity to pair it with a Zinfandel.  Let's just say, I was not disappointed.  The Ridge Paso Robles Zinfandel, accentuated the sweet spice in this dish, while taming the heat from the pumpkin seeds.  Add to that, a slightly firm structure and pop of acidity that cut through the pumpkin stock and rich butter--and you have a match made in heaven.

2010 Ridge Zinfandel Paso Robles - The nose on the 2010 Paso Robles Zinfandel is like a basket of mixed berries baked in a tartlet shell with sweet holiday spices and a hint of mocha. On the palate, it’s fruity and vibrant with intense concentration that is made fresh by brisk acidity. The wine literally coats the entire palate and then slowly melts away to reveal a hint of dry tannin. The finish is fresh, yet long, showing dried red fruits. It’s immediately enjoyable and hard not to keep drinking. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher! (avg. $31)


Pumpkin Risotto (with peas and spicy pumpkin seeds)
Serves 4

5 oz. unsalted butter
1⁄4 tsp. ground cayenne pepper
1 tsp. cinnamon
1/2 tsp. nutmeg
1 quart of chicken stock
1 cup of water
1⁄4 cup white wine
1 shallot (chopped fine)
15 oz. pumpkin puree
1 1/3 cups risotto rice
3/4 cup English peas (can use frozen green peas)
1 cup Parmigiano Reggiano cheese grated fine
3 Tbls. Pumpkin seeds
Salt and pepper
Fresh sage (garnish)

To cook the peas, prepare an ice bath and pour the chicken stock and one cup of water into a pot and bring to a simmer. Pour the peas into the simmering chicken stock and allow them to heat through for four minutes. Then remove them from the pot and place into the ice bath for two minutes before removing them to reserve for later use. Lastly, whisk (10 oz.) of the pumpkin puree into the warm stock and set aside for when you are ready to cook the risotto.

In a sauté pan over a medium-­‐low flame, melt two ounces of butter. Once the butter has melted and come up to temperature, add the pumpkin seeds, cayenne pepper and a hefty pinch of salt. Raise the flame to medium and toss the pumpkin seeds in the butter and pepper mixture. Once the seeds have toasted, pour them into a bowl and keep them in a warm location until ready to use.

When you are ready to make the risotto, place a medium size pan over a medium-­‐ low flame. Add two ounces of butter. Once the butter has melted, add the shallots, a pinch of salt and allow the shallots to sweat. When the shallots have sweated and begun to turn translucent, add the rice and stir to coat the rice in butter (if the mixture looks too dry, you can add a little more butter before adding the rice). Raise the flame to medium and continue to stir vigorously for about one to two minutes. However, do not allow the rice or shallots to take on any color. Add the wine and stir it into the rice until it cooks off. Return the flame to medium-­‐low and add the last half (5 oz.) of pumpkin puree, the cinnamon and nutmeg. Stir to combine completely and add your first ladle full of stock.

At this time, the risotto should take anywhere between 17 and 19 minutes to finish, and throughout that time you should be stirring regularly. After adding the ladle of the stock and pumpkin mixture, stir the rice slowly but regularly. Be careful with heat management with this recipe, because the pumpkin puree can burn if not stirred regularly up from the bottom of the pan. As soon as the first ladle of stock has absorbed or evaporated, add another ladle full. Continue like this for 10 – 12 minutes and add a good pinch of salt to the rice. Add more stock and continue to stir. As you approach 16 minutes of cooking time, taste the rice to test the degree of doneness, all the while continuing with the process of adding stock and stirring. At 17 minutes, add the peas, stir in completely and taste again for doneness.

When the rice is done (al dente), add the Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and the last of the butter. Stir to combine completely and taste for seasoning. Add salt and pepper as needed. (Seasoning is what really brings out the pumpkin flavor in this recipe. Without it, it will seem bland.) If the rice seems too thick, add a little more stock to loosen it up.

Plate the risotto into warmed bowls and top with the toasted pumpkin seeds and a rough chop of sage leaves. Serve.

Spice It Up: Bucatini all'Amatriciana

By: Eric Guido

If it isn’t broken, why fix it? This is a question I’ve asked myself often as I’ve traveled the road of understanding traditional Italian cuisine. I understand adjusting a recipe to fit society’s current palate but in many cases I find it unwarranted. I can’t count how many times I’ve set out to experiment with a traditional recipe, thinking it may not appeal to the taster, only to find that they love it. In Italy, a sense of place is important, and if you take away certain components of a dish, you take away that which makes it special; you take away its sense of place.

I found this to be extremely apparent with the dish, Bucatini all'Amatriciana. I thought back to culinary school and looked at the old recipe I was given and then began to search for other recipes, some of which came from esteemed chefs. One ingredient that almost all of these recipes substituted with pancetta is guanciale, which also happens to be the most important ingredient and the one that truly gives this dish a sense of place. I ask again; if it isn’t broken, why fix it?

Guanciale is an unsmoked, salt cured meat prepared from the pig’s jowl or cheek. What does it taste like? It tastes like the best slice of bacon you’ve ever had. That flavor is imparted into the sauce of Bucatini all'Amatriciana and truly makes this dish special. It provides a rich pork flavor that is accentuated by a spicy tomato sauce and tempered with a sprinkle of pecorino Romano cheese. This is the stuff that stops conversations around the table, as your guests are enthralled by it’s depth of flavors. Best of all, it’s a simple preparation that only depends on sourcing the best ingredients and can be prepared, start to finish, in under a half hour.

As for pairing wine, well that’s where it can get tricky. Remember that this is a spicy dish by nature and with heat, you always risk the possibility of overwhelming certain wines. I wouldn’t pair a feminine or elegant red with this dish because the heat will dull the wine on the palate. However, a good Zinfandel usually has the intensity, ripe fruit and zesty to truly balance out the heat in this dish. Also, a bit of new oak does wonders contrasting the aromas of the Guanciale.

2010 Ridge Zinfandel East Bench - The nose on the 2010 East Bench shows sweet floral notes with crushed blueberry, cinnamon, a hint of vanilla and an airy herbal lift that pulls it from confectionary and allows the bouquet to remain elegant and fresh. On the palate, it shows an intense mix of berries with massive concentration, followed by a note of citrusy acidity that keeps it fresh. The finish is long and shows hints of the structure that is otherwise masked by this wine’s intense fruit. (91 points)

I beg you to look for guanciale. Could you substitute it with pancetta and still enjoy this dish? Sure, but I assure you that it is pale in comparison to guanciale. I was able to find guanciale after only stopping at two Italian butchers. It’s certainly not something that you’ll find at the local supermarket but, with just a little digging, it’s very possible to source.

Also, I found that using a combination of both fresh and canned tomatoes gave this dish a gorgeous contrast on the palate and my tasting panel agreed wholeheartedly. You could just use the canned tomatoes but it would take away from the recipe, in my opinion.

Makes 4 – 5 servings

½ pound slice guanciale
1 pound Bucatini (pasta)
4 –5 cloves of Garlic (rough chop)
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes (you can double this if you prefer a good amount of heat)
28oz of canned San Marzano tomatoes
¾ cup of plum or grape tomatoes cut into large dice (must be fresh and ripe)
¾ cup of grated pecorino Romano cheese
½ cup red wine (preferably the same wine you plan to pair with the dish)
Olive oil (as needed)
Bunch of fresh basil (for garnish)


Place a large pot of salted water on a burner on high to bring to a boil.

Strain the juice from the canned tomatoes and, over a strainer, try to remove as many seeds as possible. When you’re done, you should have a bowl of strained and deseeded tomatoes and a bowl of tomato juice.

Place a medium to large sauté pan (or sauce pan) over a medium flame. Add olive oil to just barley coat the pan. Before the oil gets too hot, add the guanciale. Think about making Sunday bacon, but with the intention of pulling the meat before it gets crispy.

Add the pasta to the water and set the timer for one minute short of its recommended cooking time.

Remove the guanciale from the pan onto a paper towel to drain, and pour the rendered fat from the pan through a fine mesh strainer. (This is not 100% necessary, but those small bits you can’t scoop out with a spoon may burn if you leave them in the pan.) Wipe any burnt bits from the pan and pour two tbls of the rendered pork fat back into the pan.

Add the rep pepper flakes, the garlic and the fresh tomatoes. Allow to cook over medium-low flame for two minutes. Then (with the pan removed from the burner) add the red wine.

Once the wine has begun to reduce, add the strained San Marzano tomatoes and a cup of the strained tomato juice that came from the can. Bring this entire mixture to a simmer and allow to reduce for 3 – 5 minutes.

Around this time, the pasta should be done. Strain the pasta and pour back into the pot. Now pour the sauce over the pasta and stir until combined. Sprinkle half of the cheese into the pot as well as half of the cooked guanciale. Over a low flame, stir until completely combined. Allow this mixture to cook for one minute on low flame.

Check for seasoning, but remember that the guanciale can add a good amount of seasoning on its own.

Chiffonade the basil.

To plate, place a mound of pasta on a heated plate and sprinkle with pecorino Romano, then guanciale, and finally the basil chiffonade. Clean the rim of you plate and serve.

Give the gift of wine for Christmas

By Eric Guido

Great gift ideas from $15 - $80 (and everything inbetween)

The Holidays are here, and who wouldn’t like to get a bottle of great wine as a gift? For me, it’s pretty easy to pick out a bottle, as I spend my entire year tasting wines, thinking up recipes, cooking for guests and pairing wines with their meals. All of these things provide me with the feedback I need to know what my clients like. What’s more, this year has been full of new experiences for me. My work with Snooth has opened my eyes to new regions and wines I had never thought to try and I’m happy to be sharing many of them with you now.

When the time came to create this list, I wanted to make sure that I could touch on a gift for every kind of wine lover. You can find something here for the beginner, the adventurer, the enthusiast, the trophy hunter, the hedonist and the collector. I also wanted to focus on value and relative value. I love bargins on great wines, but I also love wines that drink great but cost less than what I’d expect to pay.

The fact is, wine lovers want wine as gifts, but giving wine as a gift can be a minefield full of letdowns. So I hope to take a lot of the guesswork out of it for you. Each of the wines below have a link to Wine-Searcher, which can help you find the bottle in time for the holidays.

Something Different, Something New (red wine)

Have you ever had a fine wine from Portugal besides Port? Most of us haven’t, until now. The wines of Portugal continue to improve, and some producers are well ahead of the pack. The 2007 Qunita do Mouro Tinto is a perfect example.

2007 Quinta do Mouro Tinto (average price $35) - The nose was dark and earthy with tart raspberry, savory herbs, coffee bean, leather and the slightest hint of spicy oak. It was seamless and juicy on the palate with tart fruit saturating the senses, showing intense wild berry, exotic spice, and cacao. As it came to a close, notes of red berries continued to excite the palate throughout the mouth-watering finish. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2010, the Southern Rhone and Outstanding Value

While everone is scurrying to buy as much 2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape as they can possibly afford, I invite you to take a look at this smart and affordable alternative. At an average of $14.99, the Michel Gassier Cercius was easily the best quality to price ratio bottle I tasted this year. At that price, you could buy this by the case and play Santa Claus.

2010 Michel Gassier Cercius (average price $15) - The nose showed ripe mixed berries, sweet spicy cookie and chalky minerals. On the palate, it was soft like velvet yet juicy and balanced it’s 14.5% alcohol very well as blackberry jam and violet candies messaged the senses. The finish was long and enjoyable with ripe berries and herbs. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

For the Pinot Noir Fanatic

For that friend or loved one that searches the world over for great Pinot, I can think of nothing better than the 2010 Ata Rangi Pinot Noir. Up until this year, I didn’t know that such amazing Pinot was being made in New Zealand. This wine is a perfect balance between the old world and the new, a truly exciting wine.

2010 Ata Rangi Pinot Noir (average price $45) - The nose was highly expressive with an excellent balance of fruit and earth, showing black cherry and clove with moist fall leaves, and a hint of mountain herbs. On the palate, it was medium-bodied with silky textures and a balanced dose of zesty acidity. Juicy cherry, strawberry, spice and notes of extra dark chocolate lingered with hints of tannin revealing a finely-balanced structure. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

For the Chardonnay Lover

You simply can’t go wrong with Ridge. This producer of great Zinfandels and Cabernet, also turns out some of the best Chardonnay made in California. Give the gift of Ridge, and open a new door to what is being made thse days in the Santa Cruz mountains.

2009 Ridge Chardonnay Estate (average price $38) - The nose was elegant and showy with aromas of peach and mango, roasting cashews, a spritz of lime and a hint of vanilla. On the palate, it was smooth with medium weight, showing peach and ripe apricot with a hint of green apple and minerals. The finish was long with peach and a lingering hint of butterscotch. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

When the occasion calls for Champagne

If the occasion calls for a bottle of great Champagne, the Ruinart Brut Rosé will certainly impress. It’s a wine that will thrill the taster with amazing depth and a beautiful presence on the palate.

NV Ruinart Champagne Brut Rosé (average price $65) - The nose was finessed, drawing you in with aromas of cherry, light strawberry, floral tones and mineral laden citrus. On the palate, it was richer than I expected from the nose, yet remarkably refined and almost whimsical, showing strawberry, lemony tones and minerals that carried well into the moderatly long finish and blossomed across the senses. (92 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

If it has to be Châteauneuf-du-Pape

By now, everyone has heard that 2010 is a stellar year for Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and the hype is true. However, you don’t need to seek out that $150 prestige bottle to impress this year. The 2010 Roger Sabon Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée is all that and at a thrid of the price.

2010 Roger Sabon Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée (average price $45) - The nose showed rich red and black berries with savory mushroom and meaty notes, a hint of pepper and herbal tea leaves. On the palate, it was medium-bodied with firm structure buried beneath intense red cherry fruit, cinnamon spice, and led to a long, long palate-staining finish. It’s enjoyable now with a short decant, yet should age and improve effortlessly for 7 - 10 years. (94 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Something Different, Something New (white wine)

If I had to name one thing that really stuck out to me, from this year's tastings, it would be Gewürztraminer from Alsace. These are very unique wines with outrageous aromatics and a beautiful balance of acidity with a hint of sweetness.

2008 Domaines Schlumberger Gewurztraminer Les Princes Abbés (average price $27) - The nose was rich yet fresh and leapt from the glass with ripe peach, sweet florals, spice, minerals and a hint of fungi. On the palate it was medium-bodied with a hint of residual sweetness giving way to flavors of lychee, honey and minerals with balanced acidity that made the mouth water. The finish was clean and long with a slight bitterness followed by notes of dried apricot and almond.(92 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

For the Italiophile

While everyone is raving about the ripe 2007 vintage in Brunello, I suggest looking back one year to 2006. The 2006 Capanna Brunello di Montalcino Riserva hasn’t peaked yet, but when it does—beauty. Gift this to an Italian wine lover, and watch their eyes light up. Brunello also makes a great gift for the boss, it simply has name recognition, and in this case, the bottle lives up to the hype.

2006 Capanna Brunello di Montalcino Riserva (average price $80) - The nose showed dark, sweet red berries, herbs, cedar and an airy pine nettle note. On the palate, it was full, velvety and balanced with ripe red berries and spice against a firm lurking structure. The finish was long with mouth-coating tannin showing at the close. It was a total joy to drink and a bottle that will find its way into my cellar. (96 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

From Piedmont with Love

Barolo, Barolo, Barolo… Can you tell I love Barolo? Imagine how happy I was when I decided that one of the best Baroli I tasted from the 2007 vintage also happened to be a bottle that cost around $65. Barolo does not come cheap, and great Barolo? Forget about it—until now.

2007 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole (average price $60) - I enjoyed another wonderful tasting of the '07 Vajra Barolo Bricco dell Viole today. What's amazing about this wine is how it takes the ripe nature of the 2007 vintage and marries it to lifting aromatics of finessed red fruits and floral notes. The palate is refined and silky smooth, as the fruit washes across your senses yet remains juicy and vibrant throughout. On the finish, fine tannins take control and remind you that this is Barolo you're drinking. I can't wait to taste this in another 5 – 10 years. (95 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Back to the Southern Rhone

What a nose on the 2009 Domaine La Garrigue Vacqueyras Cuvée de l'Hostellerie. I found myself savoring the aromas again and again. Not to mention, its beautiful structure, juciy and spicy fruits—oh, and the price is unbeatable.

2009 Domaine La Garrigue Vacqueyras Cuvée de l'Hostellerie (average price $24) - The nose showed blackberry fruit, blue and purple floral notes, and a zesty dose of ginger and sweet spices. On the palate, it was soft, medium-bodied and juicy, as a mix of dark fruits, inner floral notes and spice intermingled going into the finish, which showed hints of tannin and dark berry fruits. When this wine was first opened, it was simple on the nose and tight on the palate. However, after three hours open in bottle, it came to life and was truly enjoyable. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Ridge: A Rhone Ranger Pioneer

By Eric Guido

As I continue my exploration into the Rhone Ranger movement, I realize that one of the first California wineries I was exposed to, working with Rhone varieties, was Ridge Vineyards. Ridge is renown for their Bordeaux blend, Monte Bello, as well as a lineup of amazing single vineyard Zinfandels.



However, Ridge has also been experimenting with Rhone Varieties with great success. I was first introduced to them through their A.T.P. list (Advanced Tasting Program). It’s a special part of their mailing list that receives small production Rhone wines and Zinfandels. Imagine, if you will, that these wines aren’t available at retail, yet they are just as good as and often better than much of what’s out there.

I was recently able to taste through their current lineup, and to say I was impressed would be an understatement. The wines are rich with concentrated fruits, yet also balanced, with an airy lift to the bouquet that gives them finesse seldom found in such heavily-fruited wines. It’s hard to imagine how Ridge can continue to turn out such a large amount of excellent wine, and yet I don’t remember ever being let down. I may just have to sign up for the A.T.P. list again this year. Read the notes and then check out their website; these wines are worth your attention.

On to the wines:

2010 Ridge Carignane Buchignani Ranch – The nose was vibrant, showing ripe berries and spice with a whiff of wild herbs. On the palate, it was rich and juicy with blackberry fruits and hints of spiced orange. The finish was long with palate-coating blackberry fruit. (89 points)

2008 Ridge Syrah/Grenache Lytton Estate – The nose showed red berries, floral notes, and wild herbs with an airy lift to the aromatics. On the palate, it showed juicy ripe berries, ginger and baking spices which coated the senses through the long vibrant finish. (91 points)

2007 Ridge Syrah Lytton Estate – The nose showed plumy fruits with black cherry, herbs and a spicy, airy lift. On the palate, it was rich and racy with red and black fruits which stayed through the saturating, long finish. This wine truly showed great concentration in the face of perfect balance. (92 points)

2010 Ridge Petite Sirah Lytton Estate – The nose showed wild berry jam, a hint of vanilla, gram cracker and a bit of forest funk. On the palate, it showed tart red berries offset by a dollop of juicy acidity. The finish was long with dark fruit and revealed a layer of fine-grained tannin, which hung on the palate. This wine needs a few years to come together but should be even better with time. (90 points)

** The Rhone Rangers is an organization devoted to the promoting of Rhone Varieties in the United States with almost 200 winery members from California, Oregon, Washington and New York. The list of wineries is impressive and extensive, with names such as Ridge Vineyards, Qupe, Bonny Doon, Donelan, L’Adventure, and Larkmead filling their ranks.

This ain't yo' Mama's Zinfandel

Image Borrowed from Zazzle.com

Do you drink Zinfandel? You really should. One of the first horror stories I learned in wine was about “White Zinfandel,” the insipid pink stuff that’s sipped at weddings, pools and underage parties around the world. Yet it’s utterly amazing how much people hate the stuff. Unfortunately, that same hated for White Zin has forever left its mark on the word “Zinfandel”.  Literally to the point that when you recommend a Zinfandel to someone, you feel obligated to explain that it’s a “red” Zinfandel—not white.

So why should you drink Zinfandel? Besides the fact that it’s an excellent value, with good bottles in nearly every price range, it’s also because the absolute best examples will only run you into the $35-$50 range. There’s also the fact that Zinfandel comes in many styles, from rich and sultry party-in-a-bottle versions to examples that are lean and focused, and excellent with food. Ridge is a producer that immediately comes to mind, and it’s easy to become lost in their large mix of great Zins. However, once in a while a new producer comes along that turns my head, and that’s exactly what happened with Talty Vineyards.

What truly sets Talty Zinfandel apart from the rest is its massive amount of rich layered fruit and spice balanced against earthy and floral notes with impeccable balance and juicy acidity. Sounds great, right? It’s even better in person.

Talty vineyards are located in Sonoma’s Dry Creek Valley, an area truly suited to creating amazing Zins. The Talty family prides itself in creating handcrafted wines (from the “vine to the wine” as they put it). The Estate Zinfandel comes from their own six-acre vineyard, whereas the Filice Connolly is from Napa Valley. It’s hard to choose between these two bottlings. In the end, it was the ’06 Filice Connolly that truly stole my heart. It’s simply a great Zinfandel at its peak. However, they are all worth your consideration.

On to the notes:

2005 William Talty Estate Zinfandel Dry Creek – The nose was beautifully expressive with intense mixed berries, floral and stem notes, pepper, leather and sweet red candies. On the palate, it was big yet juicy with mixed berry jam and spice in a balanced and finessed expression of Zinfandel. The long staying finish remained fresh and highly enjoyable. (91 points)

2007 William Talty Estate Zinfandel Dry Creek – The nose was intense and expressive with toasty almond, sweet spices, blackberry jam, raisins and a sour cream note that added a savory balance to all the sweetness. On the palate, it was smooth as silk yet juicy with black cherry, spices and dark chocolate. It was remarkably balanced throughout and finished long, yet clean. (93 Points)

2008 William Talty Estate Zinfandel Dry Creek – The nose was more restrained than the ’05 and ’07, yet still highly enjoyable with blackberry, floral notes and black pepper. On the palate, it was juicy with red berries, black currant, spicy vanillin, and herbs. The finish was palate-coating, yet fresh with notes of sour red berries. (90 points)

The Filice Connolly Vineyard Zinfandel, Napa Valley

2006 William Talty Napa Filice Connolly Vineyards – The nose showed perfumed red fruits, animal musk, a hint of cotton candy and sweet spices. On the palate, it was big and dark with a massive wave of rich berries and sweet spices in a balanced and remarkably fresh expression. The finish was palate-coating, yet fresh.  This is simply a great Zinfandel entering its peak drinking window. (94 points) 

2008 William Talty Napa Filice Connolly Vineyards – The nose showed mixed berries, floral perfumes, minerals and earthy stones. On the palate, it was smooth yet juicy with intense red and black fruits, brown sugar and earthy black pepper. The finish was long and fresh. (92 points)

Talty Vineyards Website!

A big thank you of Greg dal Piaz of Snooth for introducing me to Talty Vineyards.

Year in Review: Top 10 wines of 2011

It’s that time again.  2011 is coming to a close, and the holidays are in full swing.  I’m sorting through recipes for Christmas Eve, Christmas parties and New Year’s bashes.  However, before I get too deep into things, I love to look back over the past year and my 500+ tasting notes for my top ten wines.  This isn’t a list that’s built through politicking or overthinking the subject.  Instead, these are my favorite ten wines of the year in three categories; mid-priced gems, top shelf wines and vintages wines.  You may notice that I don’t have a value wine section, but that’s because my article “Give the gift of wine for Christmas” spells out the best value wines I’ve had this year.

Looking over this list, I’m not surprised to see such a large representation made by Italian wines.  Italian wine was my first love in life, and it continues to amaze me for both quality and value.  Nowhere else can such world-class wine be had for the relative value Italian wines represent.  However, I’m also very happy to see wines from Germany, Spain and California.

Top Mid-priced Wines

Each of these bottles delivers the goods in spades, and if you compared how good they are, against how much they cost, then you’d see that each of them is a relative value.  This is the sweet spot where I find my most enjoyable drinking, because they perform beautifully, but won’t break the bank.  Give one of these to your boss for Christmas or New Year’s, and there would be no shame.

2006 Piaggia Carmignano Riserva - The nose showed ripe black cherry, herbal fruit tea, leather, and dusty potpourri.  On the palate, it was as soft as silk and flowed effortlessly across the senses.  It was structured yet elegant with unmistakable Tuscan character and flavors of black cherry juice, mixed herbs and sweet spices.  The finish lasted, showing red fruits with the slightest bitter character.  The Carmignano Riserva walks the line between sex appeal and restraint, and the result is something magical.  Give it an hour to decant, and let this beauty dazzle you. (95 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2007 Vietti Barbera d'Asti La Crena -The nose showed crushed blackberry and plum, along with a hint of undergrowth and a dark toasty note.  On the palate, a rich, velvety wave of dark fruits swept across the senses with bitter dark chocolate. The intense fruit and zesty acidity cloaked this wine’s imposing structure, which was most noticeable on the long mouth-puckering finish. I am eager to see what this wine will mature into. (94 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2009 Ridge Zinfandel Pagani Ranch - The nose was massive, as aromas of wild berries, dry coco, vanilla, ginger spice and savory notes filled the senses.  On the palate, it was medium to full-bodied with amazing focus to its intense red berry fruit and spice.  The masses of fruit slowly gave way to show this wine’s structure and balance.  The finish was long and clinging to the palate, yet ultimately refreshing as the tannins faded away.  I seriously enjoyed this structured Zinfandel and am very happy to have more in my cellar, as I can imagine that it will get even better with time. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2009 Peter Lauer Ayler Kupp Riesling Senior Faß 6 - The nose showed lime, green apple, white flowers and wet rocks.  It was simple yet perfectly enjoyable.  However, on the palate, this wine came to life, with rich and concentrated grapefruit, sweet lemon curd, which then turned to acid, minerals and stone--but then went back to sweetness into the long citrus finish.  This wine kept me guessing what each new sip would reveal.  It was amazingly fresh and enjoyable. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Top Shelf Wines

Sometimes the occasion calls for the best wines, and the ones listed below are sure to please.  These are wines that some may refer to as “collectable.”  However, I prefer to call them highly drinkable.  These are bottles that will blow away the competition and leave no survivors.  They may cost a pretty penny, but they’re worth every red cent.

2006 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio - The 2006 Il Poggio was Tuscany personified, as aromas of animal musk, spice, wild berries and forest notes wafted up from the glass.  On the palate, this wine showed wild red berries and autumnal notes with a mouth-feel of pure silk.  The finish was long in sour berry and spice. (94 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2007 Arnaldo-Caprai Sagrantino di Montefalco 25 Anni - On the nose, this wine was a monster with raspberry, holiday spices and dark forest notes.  It verged on sweet, but something animal about this Sagrantino pulled it back to reality.  On the palate, a massive wave of concentration was turned fresh by vibrant acidity, as blackberry jam, pomegranate, cinnamon and herbs washed across the tongue like silk.  The finish showed this wine’s intimidating structure, as velvety tannin coated the mouth.  The Arnaldo Caprai 25 Anni is highly enjoyable now and will likely age into something magical. (96 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2001 Tommaso Bussola Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Tb - At first, the nose showed black cherries with dark chocolate and tobacco; however, as it opened up in the glass, aromas of herbs and seared meat in a buttery crust filled the nose.  It was all at once a sweet and savory intoxicating bouquet.  On the palate, it was full with a hint of sweetness, as macerated cherry, rum raisin and Christmas spice lingered into a long and pleasing finish.  This may be made in a rich and sweet style, but it still manages to glide effortlessly across the palate with perfect balance and a graceful finish. (95 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Top Vintage Wines

If you’re anything like me, then it’s the older vintage wines that truly make cellaring wine worthwhile.  Don’t get me wrong; I love young wines, but if there were a choice, I’d grab a 20+-year-old Barolo any day.  These are all wines older than ten years that truly made me stop and take notice in 2011.

1990 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda - This wine was everything I ever wanted in a glass of Barolo.  It was sweet yet sour, earthy yet fruity and rich yet with razor-like focus.  The nose showed masses of ripe red berries with hot dried spices, gravelly moist earth, mushroom and hints of green stems.  On the palate, this showed silky, sweet, ripe strawberry, yet it also had a savory warmth, full of earth, menthol and leather strap on a beautifully structured frame.  It was amazing how young the Collina Rionda seemed as silky tannin washed across the palate and soothed me into a long, seductive finish that begged for the next sip. (98 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

1990 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Valbuena 5° - The 1990 Vega-Sicilia wowed me with its rich yet elegant personality.  The nose showed cherry preserves and cranberry with hints of clove, vanilla and burnt sugar.  However, with how rich and young the nose seemed, there was an underlying earthiness and hint of musky animal fur that truly kept it interesting.  On the palate, it was elegant, with a velvety feel on the tongue as flavors of rich red then black fruits and dusty spices assaulted the senses.  The finish was long and turned from juicy to sour as the fruit faded away. (96 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2000 Mastroberardino Taurasi Radici Riserva - The nose showed beautifully with ripe strawberry and potpourri; yet as the wine sat in the glass, it turned darker and fuller with notes of candle wax, earth, mushrooms and moist fall leaves.  On the palate, this wine was eloquent and soft at first but turned more tannic into the finish.  The senses were wrapped with penetrating black fruit, followed by minerals and a taste of older wood, which gave it a bit of a rustic feel.  The finish was laden with intense cranberry fruit, giving it a really nice sendoff.  This wine is just starting to show its age, yet still has many more years to go before its structure truly softens. (95 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!