Friday, December 13, 2019

A Year in Review & Top Wines of 2019

Touring Vineyards with Daniel Landi
Here we are, quickly approaching the end of 2019, a year that seemed to fly by due to just how jam-packed it was with events, tastings, and memorable moments. It was also a year of new discoveries, which I consider myself lucky to have been a part of, and I am very happy to share these with my readers. What's more, I gained a new respect for a region that I had dismissed to a certain degree, and in doing so have now opened my eyes to a category of domestic wine that will be filling my cellar for decades to come. As for tastings, I was fortunate to have been included in some of the most amazing events I can remember throughout my time as a wine lover, which became apparent as I toiled with the winner of my Top Back-Vintage Wine of the Year. And so, without further ado:

Welcome to my 2019 year in review.


This was a year that started at a high point of tastings, leading off with a dinner at the new Legacy Records, NYC. The hype is warranted at this trendy westside location, with the Honey Lacquered Duck being the food highlight of the night. As for wine, however, starting the year with a taste of the 1995 Poggio di Sotto Brunello Riserva set a high standard for the year. Anyone that follows my notes probably knows that I am a huge fan of the Piero Palmuci era of Poggio di Sotto - the only sad thing is how expensive these wines have become. However, this is a rare occasion where it’s truly warranted. This evening also began a series of vintage Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo tastings that continued throughout the year (and yes, I feel blessed for that).

As we moved into February, like most years, the onslaught of producer visits and organized tastings began. Keep in mind that there isn’t much for a winemaker to do in the winery or vineyards during the months of January and February, so most get on the road to visit accounts and talk about new vintages. One of the standouts this year was, undoubtedly, Luca Currado of the Vietti winery, who in conjunction with Jeff Porter (ex-Bastianich Beverage Director and the mastermind behind Sip Trip), held a focused tasting of the Vietti crus that all go into making the Barolo Castiglione. The Castiglione Barolo is one of the best values to be found in the region, vintage after vintage, and at this tasting, Luca went into detail to explain the terroir of each vineyard, just how important they are from an individual standpoint, and how each of them affects the final blend of Castiglione. It was eye-opening, to say the least.

Next up was a memorable 20-year retrospective of 1999 Barolo, organized by our private Barolo group, which was formed through the Vinous forums. It was a remarkable evening, showing how this vintage has slowly worked its way toward maturity, and in doing so, proved its worth. 1999 fell through the cracks for a large number of collectors since it landed in the middle of an amazing streak of great vintages in Barolo, but its importance is apparent. My closing remarks from that evening still echo clear: “Do you have enough 1999 Barolo in your cellar?”


From there, an event I look forward to each year: I started to gear up for Antonio Galloni’s, La Festa del Barolo. What made the 2019 edition of Antonio’s event truly special was his Rare Wine Dinner, held at Nomad’s rooftop and featuring a rare vertical of large-format, Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate Riserva. This was a once-in-a-lifetime tasting, with the majority of the wines coming from one collector’s cellar, and a bottling that is never commercially released. The only way to build a collection such as this was to be a friend of the family or a long-standing, regular customer at the cellar door for decades. Not only was it like tasting history, it also showed how much provenance counts--the wines were pristine. This was also the night that I tasted my Top Back Vintage Wine of the Year (hint, hint).

As the year moved on and tastings continued to present themselves, one that stands out and opened my eyes to a neglected category was La Tablee, which featured wines from the Rhone, where each producer put a new vintage against a mature one for attendees to taste. The Rhone, particularly the south, has always represented a love-hate relationship for me, as I was introduced to it in the heights of the Parker Era of wines from the region. 2005, 2007, and 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape still lines my cellar, but I find those vintages a little hard to stomach. That said, what this tasting gave me was a newfound respect for the “lesser vintages”, which have since provided me with a great deal of pleasure, 2004, 2006, and 2012 being years that I follow closely now. What’s more, if you haven’t tasted the wines from the 2015 through 2017 vintages, then you don’t know what you’re missing. Châteauneuf du Pape has completely upped its game.

Tasting with Gonzalo Iturriaga of Vega Sicilia
Next up was a sit-down with Gonzalo Iturriaga, head winemaker of Vega Sicilia, who was showing the most recent vintages from all of the Vega properties across Spain and even into Hungary. What struck me most was how these wines have evolved over the short period of time that I’ve had the pleasure of tasting them. Spain is changing right before our eyes, and Vega isn’t missing a beat. Little did I know at the time that this tasting would be followed by a trip to Spain only two months later, but not to see the historic properties. Instead, this was a trip to visit the “off-the-beaten-path” producers of the region, and what better way to preface such a trip than by reading Luis Gutierrez’s recent book, The New Vignerons. I was enthralled by the The New Vignerons, which turned out to be an easy page-turner, filled with new producer names and regions that I had never thought to explore. It was a great preface to my visit, which brings me to my most memorable moment of 2019--my trip to Spain.

Preparing to climb to Tumba del Rey Moro
Having already been to the major wine-producing regions of Spain, I thought I had a good idea of what to expect, but little did I know that this trip would introduce me to a whole new way of thinking about the region. Today’s Spain is no longer about centuries of tradition and trying to be or replicate the prestige of any other wine-producing region. Instead, it’s about defining terroir, looking to locations that have over a century's worth of vinous history, yet had never previously been known outside of the small mountain-top villages that enjoyed them. Names like Dominio del Aguila, Comando G, Envinate, Casa Castillo, and just about anything with Raul Perez’s name attached to it are sure bets for the future. The only problem is how limited they are.

Chris Figgins of Figgins Family and Leonetti
As is usually the case, the travel period of each year seems to go at breakneck speed, which brings me to the next trip of 2019, and my realization of just how important this oft-forgotten region of domestic wine is: Washington State. My trip out west to Washington proved that this is a category to watch. As we all lament over the cost and limited nature of California Cabernet and Bordeaux blends, here we have a region that produces some of the best examples that I’ve tasted in years, and they’re doing it at a fraction of the price. What’s more, these aren’t California look-alikes, nor are they trying to be Bordeaux. Instead, Washington falls comfortably in the middle of the two; lovers of both the Old World and the new can find a lot to like here.

Five Years of
Morrell Catalogs
My return home meant the start of the 2019 Morrell Wine Catalog, a time that I’m incredibly proud of, but as is usually the case, envelops the entire months of July through October. In the end, it’s always been worth the effort, and this year was no different. Volume 5 of Morrell Wine’s catalog is the largest (184 pages), most comprehensive version to date, along with a digital version that contains 240 pages worth of content. Each year, I struggle with the dilemma of how to outdo the year before. This year, it was through the introduction of many new producers that were discovered throughout the year. Even the cover is a departure from the norm, showcasing one of the most dramatic vineyards I’ve ever encountered: the old vines of Pintia in Toro, Spain.

With November came our gearing up for the Holidays, as well as sneaking in one more Giuseppe Rinaldi tasting for good measure, courtesy of a good friend and collector. But also, the start of a new project which I’m very proud of, and that’s the new producer video interview series, which began with Giuseppe Vajra of G.D. Vajra, and has now also includes Claudia Cigliuti and Andrea Sottimano. Being a collector puts me in a position where I find myself with a lot of questions for winemakers, which I believe consumers are eager to know the answers to as well. Keep an eye out for many more to come in 2020. This is something that I’ve wanted to do for many years.

Behind The Scenes with
Andrea Sottimano
Which brings us to December and what has yet to come. I know the holiday season always presents some great tasting opportunities and surprises, but what’s gotten me even more excited is what 2020 will bring. In fact, I’ve never been so eager to get a jump on a new year as I am right now, because I have a feeling that 2020 will be EPIC. Until then, enjoy my top wines of 2019, and cheers to the new year ahead of us.


Eric Guido’s Top Wines of 2019


Daniel Landi of Comando G
Spain, Italy and Washington hold the top spots of my list this year, and each of these wines has earned their place. In fact, 5 years ago, I would never have believed you if you had told me that these would be my top three wines. Why? When it comes to Spain, all I had the opportunity to taste were oak-slicked wines of dark ripe fruit. As for Fontodi in Tuscany, I was a devout lover of Vigna del Sorbo, and I would always say that Fallianello was too “Internationally-styled”. And then there’s Washington, which I respected, but simply didn’t understand at the time. However, today, Spain has a new pulse, Fontodi and Tuscany has achieved an unprecedented increase in quality and level of balance, and Washington continues to refine, improve, and also benefit from one of the best recent vintages: 2016.

2016 Familia Nin-Ortiz Garnacha Priorat Nit de Nin Coma D'en Romeu - Now this is unique and highly enjoyable, showing a display of dried strawberries, offset by spicy orange zest, hints of lime, exotic spice, savory herbs, dried red florals, smoky minerals and hints of brown sugar. On the palate, I found velvety textures, enlivened by fresh acidity, continuing the citrus theme, as ripe red berry fruits, sweet spices, and hints of fine tannin settled on the senses. Thoroughly enjoyable from start to the long, long finish, showing saturating minerality, spices, red fruits and hints of wild herbs, as lingering acids buzzed upon the senses. (97 points)

To My Surprise, Flaccianello Edged out
VdS in 2016
2016 Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT - The nose was alluringly dark, spicy and floral, with crushed stone, giving way to blackberry, savory meats, animal tones and wild herbs. On the palate, I found silky textures offset by zesty acidity, with saturating spices and mineral-infused dark fruits cascading across the senses in a wonderfully fresh expression, before fine tannins settled in. The finish was long, almost salty and savory, with tart blackberry and minerals soaking the senses with grippy tannins. Wow. A totally different expression of young Flaccianello, and I like it a lot. In fact, I’m noticing that Flaccianello has been impressing me a bit more than Vigna del Sorbo in recent vintages. (97 points)

2016 Leonetti Cellar Reserve Walla Walla Valley - Here I found a mix of dark, herbal-infused fruit, with lifting mineral tones and sweet spice. On the palate, velvety textures host a wave of ripe dark fruits, sweet spice, and minerals, as inner florals emerged, along with saturating tannins. The finish was long, intense, spicy, but also perfectly balanced, as dark fruit and tannin slowly faded from the senses. The 2016 Reserve is already showing so beautifully, yet it is also built for the long haul. (97 points)

Following up my top three is a series of wines that are almost impossible to categorize by quality. In fact, wines holding the fourth through tenth spots are all overperformers. In many cases, they are overlooked or misunderstood, but in my mind, they represent the future of each region.

Like Splitting Hairs Trying To Decide:
The 2015 Scavino Barolo Collection
2015 Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric dël Fiasc - The nose was intense and viral, as the bouquet wafted up from the glass with masses of dark red fruit, crushed stone, dried rosy florals, wild herbs and smoke. On the palate, I found silky textures, displaying fleshy ripe cherry offset by zesty spices, minerals and acids. The finish was long, resonating on mineral-infused dark red fruits with energizing acids and balsamic spice, as fine tannins slowly mounted. This is so easy to like already, but it is structured and balanced for the long haul. (96 points)

2016 Daniel Gómez Jiménez Landi Vino de la Tierra de Castilla El Reventón RV - The nose was slightly restrained, yet very, very pretty, showing fresh, ripe strawberries off the vine, moist earth, dusty sweet spices, a mix of exotic florals, stone dust, and hints of white pepper. On the palate, I found silky-soft textures, with an almost-creamy feel, delivering a sweet but peppery display of ripe and savory cherry, raspberry sauce, confectionary spices, minerals and wonderfully balancing acidity. The finish was long, but subtle, with pretty red fruits, red licorice, spice, and masses of tactile inner florals, as I felt a warming, pleasing sensation of heat going down. What a crazy wine and so easy to like already. (96 points)

2016 Sottimano Barbaresco Pajoré - The ‘16 Pajore was pure elegance in a glass. The nose showed dark wild berries, dried roses, spice box, dusty earth and hints of floral undergrowth. On the palate, I found silky textures over a weighty framework, as brisk acidity added poise, showing a mix of cherries and strawberries, with sweet inner florals and spice. It was so balanced and, at times, pliant. As its youthful tannins mounted, the finish slowly resolved into an expression of dried red fruits and clenching tannin. (96 points)

2013 San Giusto a Rentennano La Ricolma Toscana IGT - The ‘13 La Ricolma showed a darker and spicier expression than the vintages surrounding it. Here I found a bouquet of crushed black raspberry, tart cherry, sage, dusty earth tones, stone dust and dried florals. On the palate, silky textures were contrasted by savory spice, minerals and lively acidity, as an intense mix of saturating red and blue fruits bombarded the senses, leaving youthful tannins in their wake. The finish was long and structured, as zesty acids gave life to lingering tart cherry, spice and minerals. There are many years of evolution in store for the ‘13, and anyone who has it in their cellar will be very happy in another ten years. (96 points)

Cristiana Tiberio with Levi Dalton
and Giuseppe Palmieri
2015 Tiberio Trebbiano d'Abruzzo Fonte Canale - The nose was deeply expressive, showing more like a steely white Burg than what you’d expect from an Italian Bianco. Here I found a display of rich white stone fruits, savory minerals, rubbed sage, sea air, and hints of spice. On the palate, I found round textures on a medium-bodied frame showing savory minerals, green apple, young peach, and saline-infused yellow citrus. The finish was long, with saturating mineral tones, resonating tart apple acidity, hints of lemon peel, and inner florals. (95 points)

2016 Domaine Charvin Châteauneuf-du-Pape - The nose was incredibly fresh and pretty, showing crushed stone with dusty, violet pastille infused blackberry, fresh black cherry, and dark, dried floral tones. On the palate, I found velvety textures, yet still so fresh and lifted by brisk acids, seeming like liquid violet florals splashing across all of the senses, showing a mix of blue and black fruits with sweet spice, minerals and hints of tannin. The finish was fresh, with just a hint of heat, displaying saturating young tannin and dark floral-infused black fruits. This is so fresh yet still structured to age. I can imagine that 2-3 years in the cellar will reveal an even better experience. Wow! (95 points)

2016 Domaine Saint-Damien Gigondas La Louisiane - The nose was intense, with a complex display of blackberry, crushed stone, smoke, incense shop, exotic spice, wild mountain herbs, pepper and hints of violet flowers. On the palate, I found silky, verging on velvety, textures, offset by a mix of compact blackberry and cherry fruit, followed by spices, minerals and fine tannin, which all seemed quite poised, like a bomb waiting to go off, as brisk acidity kept the experience juicy and pleasurable, and an inner floral note of violets toward the finale. The finish was long and structured, as fine tannins saturated the senses, leaving savory minerals and dried black fruits to linger on and on. This is a serious Gigondas, distinctly savory, and in need of some time in the cellar. It's a gorgeous wine. (95 points)

Wines eleven through thirteen hold a special place in my heart, as I originally intended this to be a “Top Ten” list, but I just couldn’t leave them out. Each of these wines truly moved me. Granted, all three of them are very limited, but in my opinion, they are all worth seeking out, and they represent amazing value in their category.

2016 Domaine Georges Vernay Côte-Rôtie Maison Rouge - The nose was gorgeous, with purple florals giving way to smoky crushed stone, blackberries, a dusting of violet candies, and sweet spice. On the palate, I found soft textures contrasted by salty minerals, tart black fruits, brisk acids and savory spice. The finish was long, saturating the senses with tart black fruits, savory dried meats, minerals and young tannins. This is just a baby, and with so much potential. (95 points)

2017 Montsecano Pinot Noir - The nose was gorgeous and exotic, more lifted than the 2016, as a burst of orange and yellow citrus gave way to bright strawberry, sweet, dusty minerals, a bouquet of fresh florals and spice. On the palate, I found silky, pure red-fruited textures, guided by laser-like acidity, as a mix of saline-minerals, tangerine and sweet herbs flooded the senses. The finish was long, yet quite feminine and graceful, echoing the citrus-tinged red fruits from the nose and palate, while showing sizzling acids, salty minerals and fine tannin, with a hint of tamarind that seemed to last for well over a minute. At this time, the gutsy ‘16 has a leg up on this vintage, but with time, that opinion might change. (94 points)

2014 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges Blanc - What a gorgeous intoxicating bouquet on the ‘14 Nuits-Saint-Georges Blanc. It literally kept me coming back to the glass over and over again. On the nose, I found a savory, salty expression of sea air mixed with smoked meats, green olive, and savory spice. Behind it I found the prettiest white floral tones. On the palate, soft textures flooded the senses, as a wave of acid-infused, salty minerals cut through them like razor, revealing white peaches and inner floral tones. The finish was long and spicy, with wild herbs and resonating minerality. What a gorgeous wine. (94 points)

My Top Scoring Vintage Wine of the Year

I know that finding this wine in the market will be extremely difficult, but if you have the means, then it’s worth the hunt. 1978 is considered one of the greatest vintages of the region, and Giuseppe Rinaldi captured all of that magic in his 1978 Brunate Riserva. I was humbled by this wine, moved, and left in awe. It is now ranked among a small list of wines that have achieved a 99-point score from me.

1978 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Riserva Speciale delle Brunate - The 1978 was absolutely a once-in-a-lifetime experience. We often hear about how great this vintage is, yet we seldom get to experience it. The nose was dark, rich, layered…intense, showing a mix of brown spice, crushed black fruits, dried strawberries, balsamic tones, savory herbs, dusty soil and hints of sour animal muskiness. On the palate, silky textures were perfectly balanced by refreshing acids and lingering tannin, as red berries and spice tones emerged, along with lifting minerality and masses of dark inner florals. It finished long, balanced, and wonderfully enjoyable, with lingering spice, earthy minerals and resonating dried florals. What a dramatic and perfectly matured bottle of Barolo. I will never forget it. (99 points)

My Top Scoring Current Release Wine of the Year

It’s one thing to read about a producer and a region and another to actually visit them. My trip to Spain included a hike up the Tumba del Rey Moro vineyard in the Gredos mountains, and I must say that it felt like a pilgrimage of sorts. At 1200-1300 meters above sea level, this centennial vineyard exists in spite of its poor rocky soils and desolate climate, but it produces Garnacha of such remarkable beauty that I was left speechless. I sat with this glass for at least an hour, watching it blossom and evolve. Only a master could capture such immaculate purity in a bottle, and Comando G is apparently up to the task.

2016 Comando G Tumba del Rey Moro - To walk through and witness the magnitude of the Rey Moro vineyard, and then taste the wine, was such an amazing experience all on its own. Here I found an absolutely stunning, savory and alluring bouquet, showing mountain and brush herbs, cracked pepper, smoke, crushed rocks, and embers, as the wine opened more in the glass, evolving into ripe strawberries fresh on the vine, rose petals, and exotic spices. On the palate, silky textures flooded the senses, laced with peppery spices, liquid florals, fresh strawberries, and saline-infused minerality, with energy in abundance as brisk acids made the mouth water, and youthful tannin slowly mounted. The finish was long, savory and almost salty with its intense minerality, darker fruit than the nose and palate, and lingering savory herbs. What an incredible wine. So unique, so fresh, and so intense. (98 points)

Best Value Buy of the Year

What’s a top wines list without the value score of the year, and the 2017 Descendientes de José Palacios Pétalos is the winner. This is a remarkably energetic wine that balances between sweet and savory, along with an acid spine that keeps it juicy and fresh. It can pair with a wide variety of foods from seafood to hearty red meats, and it simply keeps you coming back to the glass over and over again. The Pétalos is a field blend that’s based on Mencia, but it also contains a mix of other reds, and even a few indigienous white varieties. It’s off the beaten path, but a path worth traveling. I highly recommend seeking it out.

2017 Descendientes de José Palacios Bierzo Pétalos - The nose showed a mix of dusty cherry and strawberry fruits, with savory smokiness and admirable richness, as notes of sage and floral undergrowth developed. On the palate, I found soft yet vibrant textures giving way to zesty acids, with spicy red and black berries, violet-tinged inner florals and saturating minerality. The finish was long, spicy, and staining to the senses, with notes of mineral-soaked raspberry and hints of fine tannin. To think that this is their entry-level wine is amazing. (92 points)

Luca Currado of Vietti, who speaks of passion
for Piedmont through his every word.
And that’s that. Another year done, and quite an amazing one at that. I want to thank all of the amazing friends, collectors and business partners who opened these amazing wines for me.

Eric Guido

Article, photos and tasting notes by: Eric Guido

Thanks you to David Bowler Wine

Thank you to IPO Wines

Thank you to Skurnik Wines

Thank you to Cristiana Tiberio and Jeff Porter

Thank you to Luca Currado, Giuseppe Vaira, Claudia Cigluti and Andrea Sottimano

Thursday, December 12, 2019

Family, Tradition & Barolo: Video Interview with Giuseppe Vaira

My sit-down and chat with Giuseppe Vaira of G.D. Vajra to talk about family, the history of Vajra, life-long traditions, and what the future looks like.

One of the most impactful moments of my career in wine, was meeting Giuseppe Vaira over ten years ago, at a local shop, as he talked about his love of the region and wine.  His spirit, and passion moved me, as well as having a taste of the great wines G.D. Vajra produces.  Imagine my excitement over having the opportunity to sit with Giuseppe and ask him all the questions that my heart desired. 

This interview is packed with insights from Giuseppe on the region, a great family history and some Easter eggs regarding what we have to look forward to in the years ahead.

Enjoy!

Tuesday, December 10, 2019

Walking a Tightrope: 2017 Chateauneuf Du Pape & Southern Rhones

For me, the majority of southern Rhone isn’t about maturing wines until they are “ready” to drink.

Frankly, with the exception of only a small number of wines, I have seldom witnessed a bottle of Chateauneuf du Pape, Gigiondas, Vacqueyras, Cairanne or Rasteau get significantly better with age. In fact, what I have experienced more often than not are wines that go from being a contrast of dark richness balanced by primary, energetic fruit in their youth, to becoming muddled and flat, showing overripe, unbalanced and just being plain uninteresting in their “maturity”.

Granted, this doesn’t happen overnight, and in my opinion a solid Rhone wine will gracefully evolve over the course of five to eight years. While a few of them do shut down during that time (these are the ones to put away in the cellar), the majority continue to deliver pleasure throughout this time period. This reminds me of a mistake I’ve made too often, and that’s burying too many bottles in my cellar to catch them in their maturity, only to come back later and find a wine that is past its prime. That’s not to say that there aren’t examples and vintages that mature more gracefully, but I am saying that it’s a crapshoot. For every great mature bottle I’ve experienced, there have easily been five-to-ten others that fell seriously short.

I feel confident in making this statement because, as a collector, I enjoy mature wines. I love secondary and tertiary aromas and flavors, but let’s just be honest, not all wine should be aged for ten-plus years. It took a lot of time and a lot of over-the-hill bottles, but I’m finally ready to admit that I find much more pleasure in young, primary and energetic Southern Rhone wines, and that’s exactly why I’m finding so much to love about the 2017 vintage.

Having said that, I still believe that the dark and graceful 2016s and powerful 2015s are technically better vintages (yes, I am a fan of the 2015s). In my opinion, both vintages are also more likely to yield wines that will make the ten-year mark, but I’m still not ready to hide them away like I did with the 2007s (talk about a lot of wines that are now unbalanced and tasting overly ripe). I will continue to enjoy them and go deep on the ones I love, but they will always remain within reach.

However, I’m getting off topic, because the fact is that the inspiration that caused me to begin typing today is the 2017 vintage and how impressed I’ve been as I’ve tasted these wines. One thing I would like to point out is that the majority of my tastings have been of the “tradition-level” bottles from producers. You know what I mean, right? I am talking about the “entry-level” village bottles--which happen to be the classic wines, typically the producers’ best expressions of house style, using a “traditional” blend of Rhone varieties, and are also your best bet for a Rhone wine to pair well with a meal.

In my opinion, most of those top-shelf and prestige-level wines are usually the ones that end up coming across as over-the-top and unbalanced in their youth and maturity. They are styled to appeal to the palates of a collector that fits more of the old-school Robert Parker days of Southern Rhone wine criticism. This is a general statement (exceptions I’ve found; Janasse VV, Marcoux VV, St. Cosme Gigondas, Prefert St. Giraud, Clos du Caillou Quartz), but my best advice to anyone seeking to explore the southern Rhone is to start with a producer’s “tradition-level” wine, and if you love it (and only if you love it), you should begin looking to their other wines.

It’s through this practice that I form the majority of my opinions about a vintage, as well as checking in on a number of Cotes du Rhone wines from my favorite producers. Sometimes, like with the Janasse CdR Les Garrigues, you find a wine that performs on a higher level than expected, which can also save you a lot of money when building your collection.

Domaine de Marcoux Cellar
So what is it that I love about the 2017s? For starters, the majority of them show a balance of intense deep red and pretty blue fruits, which isn’t something you often find. Imagine crushing a handful of ripe raspberries and blueberries together, then adding in some sweet violet florals, or better yet, that dusty sweet spice of violette candies--that’s the bouquet of a 2017 southern Rhone. Does that sound appealing? Well it is, very much so. Next, it’s the textural experience. The 2017 vintage was hot, remarkably dry and with low yields. This resulted in small and very concentrated berries. Many of the wines show this through their textural richness, which is otherworldly when balanced by a good core of acidity, creating an elegant yet lifted expression. Lastly, it’s how they handle their alcohol. Seldom did I find any hint of heat, even though some of them reached 16% abv.

However, there is one feature of the 2017 vintage that I must warn you of, and that’s how many of these wines needed time to open up in the glass, versus starting strong from the moment they were poured. It’s because of this that I believe that many people who tasting these in large format or at standing tastings will very easily miss the charms of the ‘17s. These are not your average pop-and-pour Rhones, as each of them came to life only after a few minutes in the glass. Don’t make this mistake, because they deserve your attention, and you will not regret giving it to them.


On to the Tasting Notes


Domaine Isabel Ferrando

The is the passion project of Isabel Ferrando (Domaine St. Prefert). It’s always 100% Grenache from sandy soils in the lieu-dit of Colombis, located on the western edge of the appellation. Isabel has also been experimenting with varying degrees of whole-cluster fermentation.

Domaine Isabel Ferrando Châteauneuf-du-Pape Colombis 2017 - The nose showed rich brown spices, ripe strawberries, lavender and mint, hints of dried orange and tobacco, smoky crushed stone, and lifting florals. On the palate, I found soft textures, guided by brisk acids, spice and minerals, as zesty red fruits swept across the senses, leaving hints of sweet herbs and blue fruits. The finish was long and structured, not showing a hint of its 15% alc, but instead a fresh display of red and blue fruits with sweet florals lingering long. (96 points)

Roger Sabon


With most of their vineyards located in the Northeastern section of Chateauneuf du Pape, in sandy soils with a high concentration of red clay and limestone, the wines of Roger Sabon find a balance between elegance and graceful lift. In my opinion, you don’t need to look beyond the Reserve to find the true wine of the house. The Reserve is composed of 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, and 10% Mourvedre, refined for 18 months in a combination of 40hl foudres, 25hl cuves tronconiques 25 and demi-muids.

Roger Sabon Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve 2017 - The nose was dark and brooding at first, yet with time in the glass, it blossomed beautifully to reveal notes of smoky bacon fat, opening further as sweet violet florals and lifting minerality was added, then strawberry, exotic spices, hints of pepper and savory herbs. On the palate, velvety textures flooded the senses, maintaining wonderful freshness through brisk acids, as sweet spice-tinged blueberry, strawberry and saturating minerals fleshed out, leaving hints of fine tannin and inner violet florals. It finished amazingly long and lightly structured, resonating on dried blueberries, hints of black tea, subtle sweet spice and a bump of acidity, which kept things fresh and wonderfully vibrant. This was the first 2017 that I’ve tasted where I believe it outclasses the previous vintage. (95 points)

Clos Saint Jean


To be honest, I didn’t expect to enjoy the 2017 VV as much as I did, as Clos Saint Jean is known as being one of the more modern estates in the region. Their source of fruit is undeniable, coming from within the southeastern plateau of La Crau in iron-rich red clays topped with galets. The Vieilles Vignes also sees some fruit from vineyards bordering La Crau, growing in alluvial clay and sand. It’s a classic blend of Grenache (raised in concrete), Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault, Vaccarèse, and Muscardin (all refined in French oak).

Clos Saint Jean Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes 2017 - The nose was rich and intense, showing crushed raspberry and blueberry fruits mixed with white smoke, dried orange citrus, a dusting of holiday spice, and violette candies, as a hint of animal muskiness added a bit of a rustic leaning. On the palate, deep, velvety textures gave way to zesty, spice-infused red and black fruits, as sweet herbs and minerals saturated the senses, with hints of youthful tannin slowly mounting. The finish was long, focused on red and black fruits and liquid violet florals, enlivened by zesty acids yet also structured, as a bitter twang of minerals and citrus offset its ripe fruit profile.

This is a great rendition of Vieilles Vignes, as I believe the 2017 vintage really played right into their hands. This is another '17 that I believe outperforms its '16 counterpart. While the '16 might be a better wine with age, the '17 is already giving so much and handles its 16% abv. effortlessly. (94+ points)

Domaine Giraud


I’ve become quite a fan of Domaine Giraud, and I’m a buyer in almost every vintage. The Domaine itself is located in the southern reaches of Chateauneuf du Pape, yet their vineyards are spread throughout, including the renowned Pignan. The Tradition is composed of 60% Grenache, 35% Syrah and 5% Mourvèdre grown in clay and sandy soils, covered in rounded stones. It’s a classic that drinks well young but also matures beautifully. I also included their CdR Les Sables d'Arène, a 100% varietal Grenache from 65-75-year-old vines planted in a sandy part of Lirac. It’s a real standout in 2017.

Domaine Giraud Châteauneuf-du-Pape Tradition 2017 - At first it seemed almost over the top, yet it leveled off and gained wonderful complexity, showing a bouquet that really pulls you toward the glass, with a mix of exotic spices blowing off to reveal crushed raspberry, ripe blueberries, violet-tinged florals, garigue, smoke and crushed stone. On the palate, velvety textures enveloped the senses, giving way to ripe blackberry, cherry, sweet floral-infused spices and minerals, as it glided effortlessly on a core of brisk acids. The finish was long and fresh, yet also showing a coating of fine tannin with saturating black fruits and minerals lingering long. If you don't give the 2017 Tradition the attention it deserves, you could almost mistake it for an easygoing and ripe expression of the vintage, yet with just a little time in the glass, it reveals its true self. What a beautiful wine. (94 points)

Domaine Giraud Côtes du Rhône Vieilles Vignes Les Sables d'Arène 2017 - The bouquet of the 2017 Les Sables d'Arene literally rose up out of the glass without a single swirl, as a mix of blackberries, zesty spice, notes of crushed violet candies, and licorice gave way to savory leather, pepper and lifting minerality. On the palate, I found silky textures, with ripe red and blue fruits, yet offset by a mix of acid and spice, which made the tongue curl, as hints of sweet herbs and a twang of citrus flooded the senses. The finish was medium in length and wonderfully fresh for such a large wine, as black fruits lingered along with sweet spices and a hint of tannin. (92 points)

Domaine de la Janasse


Janasse is one of the producers of CdP that first convinced me to explore the region deeper, having enjoyed a mature 2001 Chaupin. Granted, they are considered more modern, yet not overpowering. In fact, the wines are a model of elegance. The Tradition-level CdP comes from Northern vineyards, planted mostly in red clay, limestone, galets, and sand, along with some fruit from La Crau. The wine is fermented with a small percentage of stems and is a blend of 65% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre, and 5% Cinsault refined for 12 months in a combination of vat and 20% in new barrels. I also included the CdR Les Garrigues, a wine I love, produced from century-old Grenache, planted in red clay pebbly soil in the northwest of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and refined only in tank.

Domaine de la Janasse Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2017 - The bouquet was seductive, with its ripe blue and black berries giving way to baked plum, with a dusting of crushed violette candies, white smoke, minerals, and with time, hints of undergrowth. On the palate, silky textures washed across the senses with a mix of raspberry and blueberry tones, guided by cool-toned acids adding vibrancy, as sweet spice and purple florals resonated throughout. The finish was medium in length, showing a mix of violet florals, blackberry, spice and a twang of vibrant acids. This is a very pretty expression of the vintage, so easy to like, and with a gentle nature. (91 points)

Domaine de la Janasse Côtes du Rhône Les Garrigues 2017 - The nose was remarkably fresh, showing bright strawberry and crushed blueberries laced with violet florals, smoke, a dusting of sweet spice, hints of citrus and wet stone. On the palate, I found silky textures, lifted through brisk acids, which also created stunning vibrancy throughout, as ripe red fruits flooded across the senses with spicy intensity, followed by saturating minerals and purple-tinged inner florals. The finish was long with a twang of zesty spice and acids lingering, as red and blue fruits slowly faded to reveal a layer of fine tannin across the senses. I was amazed by the purity and refreshing qualities of this vintage of Les Garrigues. Also of note is how I’ve found this to slightly outperform the house’s Chateauneuf du Pape Tradition two vintages in a row now. (94 points)

Domaine de Marcoux


The Pinot of the Southern Rhone? I can’t argue; the wines of Marcoux have a silky grace and red fruit to them that’s gorgeous. The Tradition comes from a mix of different vineyards from around the village in various soils of red clay, galets, sand, gravel, clay limestone, and marls. It’s composed of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, and Cinsault, refined eighteen months in 90% concrete and 10% neutral wood. It’s a truly gorgeous and balanced expression worth seeking out, but also one of the pricier tradition-level wines.

Domaine de Marcoux Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2017 - The nose showed a zesty expression of crushed raspberry, blueberry, both sweet and savory spice, and lifting violet florals, complicated by dusty minerality and smoke. On the palate, the softest, most enveloping textures imaginable were contrasted by cool-toned red fruits and brisk acids, as a staining of liquid florals and minerals coated the senses, leaving saturating fine tannin in their wake. The finish was long yet fresh, as hints of mineral-infused red berries, spices, and violet inner florals slowly faded amidst grippy young tannins. The '17 Domaine de Marcoux Châteauneuf-du-Pape seemed to close in on itself the longer in spent in the glass, which leads me to believe that the best is still yet to come. Simply gorgeous. (93 points)

Domaine Saint Prefert


I’m not sure how much higher Isabel Ferrando can raise the bar at this historic property in the South of Châteauneuf du Pape. In 2017, the Tradition at this estate was composed of 85% Grenache, 5% Syrah, 5% Mourvèdre and 5% Cinsault, refined for 15 months in tank concrete. It’s a joyful expression of the region and varietals.

Domaine Saint Préfert Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2017 - The '17 Saint Préfert Châteauneuf-du-Pape has evolved since my last taste a few months ago. Here I found a bright, spicy blend of crushed raspberries and strawberries, with sweet herbal lift, smoke, violette pastille, and fresh red florals. On the palate, silky textures were energized by brisk acids, giving way to ripe red fruits, exotic spice, and liquid sweet florals, which coated the senses, leaving minerals and youthful tannin behind. The finish was long, displaying palate-staining red fruits, which dried slightly due to the wine’s hidden structure, as inner florals and spice lingered long. This is beautiful juice, and at only 13.5% abv--for CdP, amazing! (93 points)

Domaine Brusset


The one Gigondas I was able to get my hands on in time for this article was the ‘17 Domaine Brusset Les Hauts de Montmirail. The Domaine is located at the foot of the Dentelles de Montmirail, where terraces carry their vines into the limestone soils of these mountain slopes. Les Hauts is composed of Grenache, Mourvedre and Syrah, which are crushed and fermented separately before being blended and refined in oak, 50% of which is new. If you’re looking for a 2017 to bury in the cellar, this is certainly a good candidate.

Domaine Brusset Gigondas Les Hauts de Montmirail 2017 - The nose was dark and rich, displaying crushed plums and blackberries, laced with violet pastile, smoky minerals, hints of air-dried meats, white pepper, and a dusting of sweet and savory spices. On the palate, velvety textures coated the senses, as an intense wave of tart black fruits, minerals, and brisk acidity cut through with laser-like focus, leaving fine tannin in their wake. Notes of savory spice, Alpine herbs, and smoked meats gave way to a long finish, with staying tannic clout, resonating on dried blueberries, blackberries, dark chocolate, and pepper. This is a serious bottle of Gigondas that should be amazing with another three to five years in the cellar. (92 points)

Monday, November 18, 2019

Exposing The Regal Terroir of Serraboella

Sitting down with Claudia Cigliuti of Cigliuti Barbaresco, talking about the past, present and future of the region and her family.  They are pioneers and farms at the core, making great Barbaresco, just happens to be a very happy result.  Enjoy!



If you would like to learn more, check out The Cellar Table Blog for a full write up of the producer and their wines.