tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-80842322952860660322024-03-13T15:11:15.380-04:00The V.I.P. TableThe V.I.P. Table was a private company in the food and wine industry. Its services included private dinning, guided tastings and wine consultation. Today it is reserved for the early wine writing of Eric Guido, Italian editor at Vinous.com
The V.I.P. Table blog is the public space for chef, wine & food writer, Eric Guido; used to share his thoughts, tasting notes and recipes with fellow enthusiasts and readers.Eric Guidohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16780641005168603049noreply@blogger.comBlogger222125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8084232295286066032.post-11171531881282832052023-10-30T18:45:00.000-04:002023-10-30T18:45:21.273-04:00Goulash, The ultimate comfort food<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_nEU2_ezf78g/TRFbzgEywfI/AAAAAAAAAyE/85wCF7MfE-o/s1600/goulashzoom.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 152px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_nEU2_ezf78g/TRFbzgEywfI/AAAAAAAAAyE/85wCF7MfE-o/s200/goulashzoom.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553320755866026482" /></a>Nostalgia is a powerful thing, especially when it comes to food. Having grown up only blocks away from some of the best German restaurants in New York City, many of my nostalgic memories from childhood are of German cuisine and one in particular, Goulash. To this day, a rainy autumn afternoon or snowy winter night will always stir in me the desire for a warm bowl of goulash. Its moderate heat is perfectly tempered by the rich sauce and natural sweetness of the onions. When perfectly cooked the meat nearly melts in your mouth and becomes part of the sauce. This is the ultimate comfort food.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_nEU2_ezf78g/TRFrpPknVcI/AAAAAAAAAyc/z7RJHG_Qh-s/s1600/goulashprep2.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_nEU2_ezf78g/TRFrpPknVcI/AAAAAAAAAyc/z7RJHG_Qh-s/s200/goulashprep2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553338171823445442" /></a>The recipe included below may be very different from what a chef would learn in school or what the typical cookbook may provide, but I assure you that it will create a Goulash of incredible depth and richness. The ingredients are simple, but it requires a certain amount of patience from the cook and passion for the food. This preparation wasn’t taught to me by one person; instead it was constructed from an old traditional recipe and then fortified by the knowledge of a number of people that credit themselves as Goulash aficionados. One may have wanted nutmeg, another to brown the meat, but in the end I took the knowledge of all of them and, through experimentation, constructed what you see below. <br /><br />However, there has always been one piece missing in this equation: what wine should I pair with it? Firstly, my experience with German reds is limited and most restaurants I’ve dined at consider beer to be the beverage of choice. Even the wine list at one of my local favorites, and possibly the best German Restaurant in New York City, has only a small number of Rieslings and one or two German reds. Secondly, a good Goulash will usually have a certain amount of heat to it, which poses another problem, where it might overpower the average red. Then it dawned on me: Zinfandel.<br /><br />I choose to pair two wines with this dinner because, like most varietals, Zinfandel is made in many different styles. The one style I wouldn’t recommend with this dish is the heavily fruited and almost sappy sweet Zinfandels that sometimes cross your path. Instead I went with one of my most trusted producers, Ridge, and a bit of a wild card that I discovered this year while in Napa Valley, Trespass.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_nEU2_ezf78g/TRFrSRzJayI/AAAAAAAAAyU/JGI99R-pBJM/s1600/trespass.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 151px; height: 200px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_nEU2_ezf78g/TRFrSRzJayI/AAAAAAAAAyU/JGI99R-pBJM/s200/trespass.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553337777284279074" /></a><b>2006 Trespass Zinfandel</b>, from Napa Valley was, surprisingly, a light ruby red color with aromas of bright red fruit, cranberry sauce and a bit of chalk dust. With time the fruit became darker with clove spice and plum, providing beautiful contrast to the heady, rich, beefy aromas of the goulash. On the palate it showed dark blue fruit, cedar and clove, adding complexities to the dish’s earthy flavors of rosemary and paprika. It's full-bodied and zesty acidity worked wonders, carrying the fruit through the spicy heat of the goulash to end in a long finish reminiscent of sour cherry cough drops. This was a beautifully nuanced and complex zinfandel that ended up as the majority favorite of the night.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_nEU2_ezf78g/TRFqmwHk4gI/AAAAAAAAAyM/W3irVx4xf4E/s1600/Ridge-Vineyard-Zinfandel-Ponzo-2007.2_d_3.wine_3672720_detail.png"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 134px; height: 147px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_nEU2_ezf78g/TRFqmwHk4gI/AAAAAAAAAyM/W3irVx4xf4E/s200/Ridge-Vineyard-Zinfandel-Ponzo-2007.2_d_3.wine_3672720_detail.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553337029508784642" /></a><b>2007 Ridge Zinfandel Ponzo Vineyard</b> was in many ways the yin to the Trespass Zinfandels yang. The wine was a dark purple color in the glass and wafted aromas of black cherry fruit followed by confectioners sugar, sage, and a bit of nail polish remover (I mean that in a good way) which added a floral perfume and kept me with my nose to the glass for minutes on end. On the palate it delivered big, lush brambly fruit with spicy vanilla and dark chocolate flavors. The wine complimented the Goulash by standing up to its big bold flavors and providing a contrast of lush fruit and firm tannin between each bite of savory beef. The Ridge Ponzo Vineyard was a big, structured, rich, full-bodied Zinfandel with a long red fruit finish. It’s a wine that will age for years in your cellar but probably only moments in your glass.<br /><br />In the end, I have to say that both wines performed equally well but for totally different reasons. Each wine is, in my opinion, a superior expression of Zinfandel and while the Trespass will capture your soul in its web of elegant fruit and spice, the Ridge will quicken your pulse with its racy perfume and palate of rich bold flavors. The most difficult part of this pairing was deciding what to do next, eat or drink. The Hungarian Goulash captured us all in our own way. For me it was nostalgia while, for one guest, it was a wild and new experience, and another saw it as a taste of home. And for a fellow chef, it was trying to figure out how it was possible to achieve such complexity with so few ingredients. I think it’s time you try it for yourself.<br /><br /><b>Hungarian Goulash</b><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_nEU2_ezf78g/TRFaxrnmWaI/AAAAAAAAAx0/wUI4Y7AALsI/s1600/goulash.JPG"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 143px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_nEU2_ezf78g/TRFaxrnmWaI/AAAAAAAAAx0/wUI4Y7AALsI/s200/goulash.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553319625093437858" /></a>The first thing to understand is that this recipe is all about patience and low, even temperature. The best cooking vessel to use depends mainly on how much you want to make. The recipe below is made to serve 7 – 8, and the reason I choose this high yield is that you can always use the extra as leftovers and, due to the time it takes to make it, you might as well have extra. For the 7 –8 servings I suggest using a heavy stainless steel roasting pan that can span across two burners on your stove. However, if you were to choose to cut this recipe in half for a small group then I would suggest a cast iron or earthenware vessel such a Le creuset.<br /><br />Secondly, this recipe can be made the same day you plan to serve it; however I highly recommend making it the night before so that the sauce and meat can truly come together and develop a deeper, richer flavor. This also frees you up to better entertain your guests while also impressing them by how effortlessly you are able to produce such a wonderful meal.<br /><br />5 pounds beef chuck (fat trimmed, cubed or cut about 1 ½ inch long, ¾ inch thick)<br />5 large yellow onions (sliced thick wedges)<br />8 Tbls tomato paste<br />2 Tbls hot paprika (Go for real Hungarian paprika)<br />1 Tbls sweet paprika (Go for real Hungarian paprika)<br />2 tsp dried oregano<br />¾ tsp fresh grated nutmeg<br />3 branches fresh rosemary<br />about 4 tsp salt<br />Pepper to taste<br />5 cups water<br />2 Tbls AP flour<br />Extra Virgin Olive Oil (as needed)<br />4 Tbls sweet butter (for the finish)<br />1 lb fettuccini (Can use egg noodles; serve with potato dumplings or even rice)<br /><br />1. Place roasting pan over two burners on your stovetop and pour enough olive oil to coat entire bottom of the pan. Set burners to low-medium flame. Once the oil is heated, add onions with a healthy pinch of salt and toss to coat in the oil. Cook over low-medium flame until onions turn translucent but do not allow them to take on any color.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_nEU2_ezf78g/TRFbEGP0WRI/AAAAAAAAAx8/5mJbnoQTN2s/s1600/goulashprep1.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_nEU2_ezf78g/TRFbEGP0WRI/AAAAAAAAAx8/5mJbnoQTN2s/s200/goulashprep1.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553319941479094546" /></a>2. Reduce flame to low. Make sure the onions are evenly spread out on the pan bottom and add the beef slices by placing them on top of the onions in an even layer. The beef should cover the onions completely but make sure that none of the pieces touch the side of the pan. The onions should create a cushion between the pan bottom and the beef.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_nEU2_ezf78g/TRFrpPknVcI/AAAAAAAAAyc/z7RJHG_Qh-s/s1600/goulashprep2.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 133px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_nEU2_ezf78g/TRFrpPknVcI/AAAAAAAAAyc/z7RJHG_Qh-s/s200/goulashprep2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553338171823445442" /></a>3. Sprinkle another pinch of salt over the beef. Next, sprinkle all the paprika over the beef evenly (I like to use a sifter for this to create a fine and even layer.) Now add the oregano and nutmeg again, evenly over the beef. Lastly, place two (of the three) rosemary branches on top of the beef. (Do not disturb the layers you have created.)<br /><br />4. Cover the roasting pan tightly with aluminum foil. Check to make sure that the flame is on low. After about 3 – 5 minutes you should hear the mixture bubbling. Allow the mixture to cook like this for 35 minutes and then loosen the aluminum foil to allow a little steam out of the pan. After another 5 – 10 minutes remove the foil (do not discard) and turn all the pieces of meat over. Check to make sure the onions are not burning. You should notice that the meat and onions have released a lot of their juices. Place the foil back on top of the pan (loosely) and allow the mixture to cook over low heat for another 45 minutes.<br /><br />5. Now place saucepot on the stove over medium-low flame, add the five cups of water and whisk in the flour slowly, making sure that no lumps form. Now add the tomato paste and again whisk until it is combined. Allow this mixture to come up to a gentle boil but make sure to whisk regularly.<br /><br />6. Remove the foil from the roasting pan, remove the two branches of rosemary from the pan and add the boiling water-tomato paste mixture. Turn the beef and onions over in the sauce. The cooking liquid should just barely cover the beef and onions. Bring this mixture back to a simmer over medium-low flame and cover loosely with the foil so that steam can escape from the pan. Cook this mixture for an hour to an hour and a half, and stir gently once or twice to make sure that the mixture is cooking evenly. <br /><br />7. It’s at this time that you should taste. Check to make sure that the beef is tender. Season with salt and pepper. Then turn off the heat.<br /><br />8. If you want to serve the same day, let this mixture sit for about an hour before going to the next step. If you want to use this for the following day, move the mixture to a bowl and place in an ice bath to cool it quickly, then cover it tightly and place in the refrigerator.<br /><br />9. When ready to finish, place Goulash in a pot and set over low heat. Bring another pot of well-salted water to boil for the pasta. Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook according to the instructions on the package.<br /><br />10. While waiting for the pasta, set the butter out on the counter and cut into cubes. Strip the last branch of rosemary for its leaves and chop them. By the time the pasta is finished, the Goulash should be perfectly heated through. Taste for seasoning one last time and then add the butter and stir gently until combined.<br /><br />11. Strain your pasta and toss in olive oil. Set the pasta on a plate and hollow out a circle in the middle. Pour one or two (depending on the party) ladles of goulash into the center of the plate and sprinkle with the fresh chopped rosemary. Clean the rim of your plate with a warm, moist paper towel and serve. <br /><br />12. Be prepared for praise.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_nEU2_ezf78g/TRFuY3SV-gI/AAAAAAAAAyk/cUVzQ0fuudM/s1600/goulashzoom.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 304px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_nEU2_ezf78g/TRFuY3SV-gI/AAAAAAAAAyk/cUVzQ0fuudM/s400/goulashzoom.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553341188961335810" /></a>Eric Guidohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16780641005168603049noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8084232295286066032.post-23754427532055344542021-02-27T10:12:00.005-05:002021-11-29T16:07:06.228-05:00The Resurrection of Collina Rionda<h3 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">In Search of Piedmont’s Greatest Terroir</span></h3><div><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i>by Eric Guido (Originally published at The Cellar Table Blog)</i></span></div><div><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></div><div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Nx2H7ighR5g/YDpZ2kU00sI/AAAAAAAAT3c/mF7LetzYkqo-ygYOr8zv7YHjCoiTgI_VwCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/Serralunga_vineyards_central.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1128" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Nx2H7ighR5g/YDpZ2kU00sI/AAAAAAAAT3c/mF7LetzYkqo-ygYOr8zv7YHjCoiTgI_VwCPcBGAYYCw/s320/Serralunga_vineyards_central.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />As trends go, one which seems to have affected nearly every producer throughout Barolo is the desire to explore the terroir of Serralunga. With nearly every visit to the region, I am told over and over again, often in hushed tones by a wide-grinned winemaker, that they are incredibly excited to be making wine from just about any vineyard in Serralunga. In some cases, these proclamations are about vineyards that have yet to make a name for themselves or prove their worth. However, that doesn’t matter to the lucky few who can buy or rent parcels here, because most of the region believes that Serralunga will be a big part of Barolo’s future.</div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KYwh5-D6k7s/YDpbC7mVT4I/AAAAAAAAT3k/qxsfxzyRtIYnl4X383CmpTWrngHZuv1-QCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Giacomo%2BConterno%2BMonfortino%2B2001-1.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2017" data-original-width="2048" height="197" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KYwh5-D6k7s/YDpbC7mVT4I/AAAAAAAAT3k/qxsfxzyRtIYnl4X383CmpTWrngHZuv1-QCNcBGAsYHQ/w200-h197/Giacomo%2BConterno%2BMonfortino%2B2001-1.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><br />Much of this has to do with consumers, who have liked what they've tasted from this village for many years now, especially as the great vintages of the last thirty years have matured into such beautiful wines, pushing their collectibility and prices through the roof. Then there’s Monfortino, produced by the Giacomo Conterno winery, one of the first wines of the region to demand prices on the same scale of the best Grand Cru Burgundy. Of course, many wines have followed suit over the last decade or two, but Monfortino led the way, and today’s current releases nearly double or triple in price the moment they hit the secondary market. </div><div><br /></div><div>Then there are the vineyards, some of which are only just beginning to show what they are capable of in the right hands, and a few that history has firmly placed among the best in the village. You can count them on one hand: Cascina Francia, Falletto, Brea, Lazzarito, and what is considered by most to be the Grand Cru of Serralunga--Vigna Rionda.</div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A2wWqfmuYz8/YDpcCrcJxhI/AAAAAAAAT3s/mMYfsqxDK4E3URCZgLyN_jNw83i2junLACNcBGAsYHQ/s750/sm%2BVigna%2BRionda%2BPerspective.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="492" data-original-width="750" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A2wWqfmuYz8/YDpcCrcJxhI/AAAAAAAAT3s/mMYfsqxDK4E3URCZgLyN_jNw83i2junLACNcBGAsYHQ/s320/sm%2BVigna%2BRionda%2BPerspective.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />In fact, Vigna Rionda has a way of creating a fanaticism among lovers of Barolo, as they search for the best expressions from each of its many terroirs, the bottles that have made it famous, and the wines and producers that have either been obscured by the passage of time, or have only just emerged. As these wine lovers recount the history of Vigna Rionda, they often do it with an excitement and bravado that you’d expect from a great tale or one of the most closely guarded secrets of the world. This is the fanaticism that I speak of, and you know what, I’ve been guilty of it myself.</div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nTRm1CW_GGg/YDpcaibF9hI/AAAAAAAAT30/x54Si9FdMvA9T2y1QW9as1TjWBL2GLcDACNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Bruno%2BGiacosa%2BBarolo%2BCollina%2BRionda%2B1989.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1211" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nTRm1CW_GGg/YDpcaibF9hI/AAAAAAAAT30/x54Si9FdMvA9T2y1QW9as1TjWBL2GLcDACNcBGAsYHQ/s320/Bruno%2BGiacosa%2BBarolo%2BCollina%2BRionda%2B1989.jpg" /></a></div><br />One such story involves what is easily one of the greatest wines ever made in all of Italy; some would even argue that it was “THE” greatest wine ever made in all of Italy: the 1989 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Collina Rionda, from the Vigna Rionda vineyard. </div><div><br /></div><div>For those of you that may have just found their way here without knowledge of Bruno Giacosa, he was without a doubt one of Piedmont's top winemakers for nearly fifty years. He was a visionary, with a style that no one has been able to copy, and with an ability to find the best expositions and fruit from within any vineyard. This was one of his greatest assets, as throughout his life, he often purchased the fruit, while working to add his own famous vineyard holdings to the portfolio, such as Falletto. Yet it was his ability to find and purchase the best fruit that helped him to create the renowned Collina Rionda, which was only ever made in fourteen vintages, starting in 1967 and ending in 1993. However, it was the 1989 vintage of Collina Rionda that forever sealed it in vinous history. After 1993, Bruno Giacosa lost access to the fruit from this noble site, and so the story seemed to end. As time passed and the vintages of Collina Rionda matured, it became obvious that Bruno had indeed found the best location within the vineyard to produce his wine.</div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bO59Q63Ndrk/YDpcvtKoRlI/AAAAAAAAT38/mEVzLlXAME8A1tcob72lAq01naOepAlGwCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Massolino%2BFranco.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1862" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bO59Q63Ndrk/YDpcvtKoRlI/AAAAAAAAT38/mEVzLlXAME8A1tcob72lAq01naOepAlGwCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/Massolino%2BFranco.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />However, my interest in Vigna Rionda was actually spurred by a different producer: Massolino. Currently run by Franco and Roberto Massolino, this family winery is the largest land-owner within the vineyard, and it makes what has become the benchmark wine from its slopes, the Vigna Rionda Riserva. It was this wine that introduced me to what was possible here, as I searched for vintages after tasting the great bottles of ‘89, ‘90 and ‘96. To this day, it’s one of the greatest wines that you can find from the vineyard, yet it takes decades in the cellar to mature. This search one day led me to an opportunity to spend some time talking with Franco about his winery and the Vigna Rionda Riserva. During this conversation, it occured to me that I didn’t know who Bruno Giacosa was buying fruit from when he created Collina Rionda. </div><div><br /></div><h4 style="text-align: left;">The Quest</h4><div><br /></div><div>The fact is that there are quite a few producers that make a wine from Vigna Rionda (Massolino, Luigi Pira, Oddero, Anselma, and Terre del Barolo, to name a few), but it’s important to understand that the vineyard crests around a hillside, where the vines face west toward Monforte, while the rest of the vineyard faces south-southwest, meaning that not all Vigna Rionda is created equal. And so with the question in mind, and sitting with the largest land owner within the vineyard, I chose to ask Franco if he knew where Bruno Giacosa was sourcing his fruit from--and he didn’t. This conversation started me on something of a quest to figure out who was using this fruit and what wine they were making with it.</div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-y3NwnT3dlKM/YDpeVtXmpjI/AAAAAAAAT4Q/Sq5ZIHzjhEMwFJm52JOjHrSuNKFpXmLYwCPcBGAYYCw/s677/Eric_Lucasm.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="677" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-y3NwnT3dlKM/YDpeVtXmpjI/AAAAAAAAT4Q/Sq5ZIHzjhEMwFJm52JOjHrSuNKFpXmLYwCPcBGAYYCw/s320/Eric_Lucasm.jpg" /></a></div><br />This question became the most common thing I would ask any Serralunga producer I ran into, and for years, no one could tell me the answer--until 2015. </div><div><br /></div><div>While sitting with Luca Currado, of Vietti, at Centro Storico in Serralunga, he reached over to a bottle on the shelf and said, “This wine, watch for this wine, because this comes from the same vines that Bruno used for Collina Rionda.” You can only imagine my surprise, after so many years of asking, to have someone simply tell me. This started my interest in the Giovanni Rosso winery and my search for the Tomasso / Ester Canale Barolo Vigna Rionda.</div><div><br /></div><h4 style="text-align: left;">Finding Vigna “Collina” Rionda</h4><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ozcI-0zBhnM/YDpd5HIRRSI/AAAAAAAAT4I/8aNosT9Cm1IGcZgk4ysbynU4r1VyflQHwCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/Roagna%2BVigna%2BRionda%2BLineup.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1741" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ozcI-0zBhnM/YDpd5HIRRSI/AAAAAAAAT4I/8aNosT9Cm1IGcZgk4ysbynU4r1VyflQHwCPcBGAYYCw/s320/Roagna%2BVigna%2BRionda%2BLineup.jpg" /></a></div><br />The reality was that the answer had been right in front of me for quite a while. What’s more, I even had wines in my cellar made from the same vines. The answer was Tommaso Canale, who had been tending to the family’s 2.2 hectare parcel within Vigna Rionda, a parcel planted in 1946, some of the oldest Nebbiolo vines in the region. Rumor has it that not only did Tommaso’s Father, Aldo, supply Bruno Giacosa with fruit, but that in some cases he even provided him with finished wines (a rumor I would love to be able to substantiate, but haven’t yet.). Where the fruit went after that is still a mystery to me, although it’s been said that Tommaso preferred selling only to private clients, yet sourcing from Tommaso later happened again between 2003 and 2006, when Luca Roagna began to buy from Tommaso and produce his own Roagna Barolo Vigna Rionda, a wine that I have tasted, loved, and even own some bottles of. In 2007, Luca lost access to these vines, and Tommaso himself produced (yet didn’t release) a 2007, 2008 and 2009.</div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ttfMwvt2ms8/YDpf-gCwuCI/AAAAAAAAT4Y/_px-ygstG9AqoTKIt1YfLtoMo4n-NbkrACNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Vigna%2BRionda%2BCanale%2BParcels.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1117" data-original-width="2048" height="109" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ttfMwvt2ms8/YDpf-gCwuCI/AAAAAAAAT4Y/_px-ygstG9AqoTKIt1YfLtoMo4n-NbkrACNcBGAsYHQ/w200-h109/Vigna%2BRionda%2BCanale%2BParcels.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><br />Unfortunately, Tommaso passed away in December of 2010 without a will, and his plot was split between the three surviving relatives, Ettore Germano, Guido Porro and Giovanni Rosso. There was only one problem--much of the vineyard required replanting, and both Ettore Germano and Guido Porro replanted their entire sections of the vineyard. </div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N4B3OdppDcQ/YDpf0aVsqyI/AAAAAAAAT4U/mUq68bVyguENNG4Z8siQPnJn5yFiwWeXwCNcBGAsYHQ/s1210/sm%2BDavide%2BRosso.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1210" data-original-width="1000" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N4B3OdppDcQ/YDpf0aVsqyI/AAAAAAAAT4U/mUq68bVyguENNG4Z8siQPnJn5yFiwWeXwCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/sm%2BDavide%2BRosso.jpg" /></a></div><br />However, Davide Rosso, of Giovanni Rosso, had a wonderful idea. He decided to replant all but a small section of the original vines at the top of the Rionda hill, in his mind, the best of the old vines, which he would use for massal selection of the new plantings, and also to make a Barolo Vigna Rionda. It’s a wine that only sees between 1800-2000 total bottles made each year, and since Ettore Germano and Guido Porro have replanted, it makes the Giovanni Rosso “Ester Canale” (his mother) Barolo the only wine being made from the same vines as the famous Barolo of Bruno Giacosa.</div><div><br /></div><h4 style="text-align: left;">What is a lover of Barolo and Vigna Rionda to do?</h4><div><br /></div><div>With all of the pieces in place, I decided that I had to taste these two wines together. It was with that in mind that I first worked to find the wine being made by Davide Rosso, which was much harder than you might think. In fact, after having been denied the ability to buy the wine in the last two vintages, it was in 2018, with the release of the 2014, that I had finally gotten my hands on one.</div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wNSLia-HLC4/YDpgWYXRMEI/AAAAAAAAT4g/ihAdbRQZqtkSpOFVWKWlBvugS_hRUcj2gCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Giacosa_Canale_pair.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1151" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wNSLia-HLC4/YDpgWYXRMEI/AAAAAAAAT4g/ihAdbRQZqtkSpOFVWKWlBvugS_hRUcj2gCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/Giacosa_Canale_pair.jpg" /></a></div><br />Then, as fate would have it, a friend contacted me about a tasting he was organizing that would include Icon wines from Barolo and Barbaresco, and he hinted that there might be a Bruno Giacosa Barolo Collina Rionda at the tasting. Somehow the stars had aligned.</div><div><br /></div><div>You can imagine the anxiety I felt leading up to this event. What if one of the wines was corked? What if the Bruno Giacosa wasn’t a perfect bottle? What if I got sick the day of the tasting? Luckily, none of that happened, and both myself and the group were able to taste two pieces of history, a mystery solved, and share one of the few times that these two limited and amazing wines would be able sit next to each other at a table.</div><div><br /></div><div>Yes, the 2014 was young and from a difficult vintage, yet it’s also a vintage that many have called a throwback to the Barolo styles of old. Still, the ‘89 lived up to its reputation, and the 2014 was an experience I hope to never forget.</div><div><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">The Tasting Notes</h3><div><br /></div><div><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Bsl1meLls_Y/YDpgmtyfV_I/AAAAAAAAT4o/oIYI5onfP9AwRP1RNt7n8-RVBrMcuamRACNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Giacosa_and_Canale_together.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1331" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Bsl1meLls_Y/YDpgmtyfV_I/AAAAAAAAT4o/oIYI5onfP9AwRP1RNt7n8-RVBrMcuamRACNcBGAsYHQ/s320/Giacosa_and_Canale_together.jpg" /></a></div><br />1989 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda </b>- The bouquet was remarkably deep and layered with masses of pure black cherry and ripe strawberry fruit, giving way to a mix of sweet mineral-infused Indian spice, hints of balsamic, and smoky crushed stone. On the palate, I found the most silky, fine textures imaginable, like a veil being pulled across the senses, ushering in vibrant, fleshy cherry fruit, offset by savory minerals and spice, with inner rose and cedar notes, as hints of fine tannin slowly mounted. The finish was long and showed the first signs of the ‘89’s twenty-nine years, as savory minerals, moist earth, and dried floral tones resonated amidst saturating dried cherries and spice. I am in awe of how the ‘89 Collina Rionda has lived up to all of the hype. (99 points)</div><div><br /></div><div><b>2014 Giovanni Rosso Barolo Ester Canale Rosso Vigna Rionda </b>- The ‘14 Vigna Rionda was so densely packed and poised, a quality that I don’t often associate with the vintage. The bouquet was beautiful, both savory and spicy, showing zesty tart cherries and cranberry with hints of spiced dried orange, crushed stone minerality, sweet rosy florals and savory botanicals. On the palate, I found soft textures, which were firmed up quickly by a mix of saline-minerality and brisk acidity, as notes of citrus-kissed strawberry, cedar, and earth tones emerged along with grippy mineral-laden tannin. The finish was long and structured with fine tannins saturating the senses, while dried red berries, savory herbs and hints of cedar lingered. This was one of the most structured and backward 2014s I’ve tasted, in need of a long slumber in the cellar, yet gorgeous. (95 points)</div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u6Inr25FmzA/YDpgtFHbnEI/AAAAAAAAT4s/smJTLgJmmdUtnheJntJtCb9HrKAhDuP0wCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/canale%2BRosso%2B2015.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1084" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u6Inr25FmzA/YDpgtFHbnEI/AAAAAAAAT4s/smJTLgJmmdUtnheJntJtCb9HrKAhDuP0wCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/canale%2BRosso%2B2015.jpg" /></a></div><br />** <i>As a bonus, from the newly planted vines of Vigna Rionda, Davide Rosso creates the Ester Canale Nebbiolo, and if this is any clue to how good these wines will be when these vines are old enough to produce Barolo, then we are in store for something very special.</i></div><div><br /></div><div><b>2015 Giovanni Rosso Ester Canale Rosso Nebbiolo Rionda </b>- The nose was dark, rich and layered with masses of dried florals and earth tones, bright cherry, and hints of animal musk. As it spent time in the glass, its bright cherry evolved into ripe strawberry, also adding hints of leather and crushed stone. Like silk on the palate, it washed effortlessly across the senses, brightened by zesty acidity, as notes of dried cherry and inner rose resonated, showing amazing purity and with slow mounting tannin. The finish was long, opening with dried cherries, then cleansed by zesty acidity, leaving hints of strawberries and rosy florals in its wake. The ‘15 Nebbiolo Vigna Rionda Ester Canale is gorgeous. (94 points)</div></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-czx5ZEGN9jM/YDpg5lBaZXI/AAAAAAAAT40/yz_Rb0tO3rYLokhSn48w-m9yL08Tshy2gCNcBGAsYHQ/s1595/Giovanni%2BRosso%2BParcels.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1096" data-original-width="1595" height="275" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-czx5ZEGN9jM/YDpg5lBaZXI/AAAAAAAAT40/yz_Rb0tO3rYLokhSn48w-m9yL08Tshy2gCNcBGAsYHQ/w400-h275/Giovanni%2BRosso%2BParcels.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>Eric Guidohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16780641005168603049noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8084232295286066032.post-17255127461571757952020-07-26T18:17:00.011-04:002021-11-29T16:07:48.531-05:00Following Monprivato Through the Ages<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jPxI2pMZC1o/XzBYS8PSaXI/AAAAAAAATTs/pkFV6U02FRAGZ9wJrYFLmZR6vULeNgmVwCNcBGAsYHQ/s990/Mascarello%2BBook.jpg" style="clear: right; display: block; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; padding: 1em 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="990" data-original-width="750" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jPxI2pMZC1o/XzBYS8PSaXI/AAAAAAAATTs/pkFV6U02FRAGZ9wJrYFLmZR6vULeNgmVwCNcBGAsYHQ/w303-h400/Mascarello%2BBook.jpg" width="303" /></a></div><div><i style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; white-space: pre-wrap;">by Eric Guido (Originally published at The Cellar Table Blog)</i></div><div><br /></div>It all started with the 2009 vintage. As an avid reader of Antonio Galloni, I remember it well. What was originally a 93-95 point wine in a difficult vintage had suddenly been downgraded to a “?” in January 2014, with reports that the addition of declassified juice from Mascarello’s top wine, Cà d’Morissio, had done nothing to boost the quality of Monprivato--in fact, it hurt it. However, with a downgrade like this, we were left to read between the lines. Then there was 2010, a great vintage, and an 89-point score. Other critics continued to dole out scores in the mid-nineties, while Antonio held his ground.<br />
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Frankly, I’m glad that he did, because it has become apparent to me that something has changed about Giuseppe Mascarello Monprivato Barolo, and I know I’m not alone. Granted, only time will tell if this change is for the better or worse, yet if there’s one thing that tasting this wine multiple times in vertical tastings has shown me, it’s that the Monprivato of today is absolutely a different wine than the Monprivato that most Barolo lovers have come to know over the last forty years.<br />
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The Monprivato of yesterday and today</b><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AmKAU1l1R_I/XzBYv8W14zI/AAAAAAAATT0/4FdCL2dFNfQz4jJM3O0xYjhIETEjt8B3gCNcBGAsYHQ/s1250/sm%2BGiuseppe%2BMascarello%2BBarolo%2BLineup.jpg" style="display: block; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; padding: 1em 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="415" data-original-width="1250" height="133" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AmKAU1l1R_I/XzBYv8W14zI/AAAAAAAATT0/4FdCL2dFNfQz4jJM3O0xYjhIETEjt8B3gCNcBGAsYHQ/w400-h133/sm%2BGiuseppe%2BMascarello%2BBarolo%2BLineup.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>I’ve formed a sincere love for many vintages of Monprivato, yet I’m the first one to admit that it’s a wine that’s incredibly hard to judge in its youth. However, I’ve learned through experience that the youthful expressions of Monprivato of the past are very different from what we find today. For me, Monprivato has always been a wine that showed severe austerity in its youth, crystalline tannin against incredibly delicate fruit, making it difficult to imagine the wine ever coming into balance. Not only that, Monprivato always seemed to take at least two decades before it would even begin to open up. I can’t recount how many tastings showed younger vintages to be completely shut down. Yet, once the wines reached maturity, there was really nothing quite like it.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gcY14FtTh8E/XzBZFepstrI/AAAAAAAATT8/7dJN8RmfsI0Bnb5l74FAVG3z8Ei2eFxgQCNcBGAsYHQ/s750/sm%2BGiuseppe%2BMascarello%2BBarolo%2BIn%2Bglass.jpg" style="clear: right; display: block; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; padding: 1em 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="516" data-original-width="750" height="220" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gcY14FtTh8E/XzBZFepstrI/AAAAAAAATT8/7dJN8RmfsI0Bnb5l74FAVG3z8Ei2eFxgQCNcBGAsYHQ/w320-h220/sm%2BGiuseppe%2BMascarello%2BBarolo%2BIn%2Bglass.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>After a recent vertical tasting, led and hosted by Elena Mascarello, I had the chance to taste some of my favorite vintages of the past, along with new releases and recent vintages. This is where the questions began to arise. Tasting the 2013, 2012, 2011 and 2010, one can’t help but notice that those hard crystalline tannins that used to define this wine in its youth are quite different today. Yes, the wines are tannic and youthful, but today’s tannins are finer and softer than they were previously. I know I’m not alone in this opinion either, as fellow tasters began asking questions.<br />
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Questions about Monprivato and… Answers?<br />
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One of the first questions from the audience that day was asking Elena if the tannin management was being handled differently at any point in the process. Her answer was a resolute “No.” <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cZXoXOn-WpA/XzBZZ4KtO6I/AAAAAAAATUE/N74QDEDqmP0dhkrGd5mrUUtbttWuD6ogQCNcBGAsYHQ/s950/sm%2BGiuseppe%2BMascarello%2BBarolo%2Bpour.jpg" style="clear: right; display: block; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; padding: 1em 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="745" data-original-width="950" height="251" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cZXoXOn-WpA/XzBZZ4KtO6I/AAAAAAAATUE/N74QDEDqmP0dhkrGd5mrUUtbttWuD6ogQCNcBGAsYHQ/w320-h251/sm%2BGiuseppe%2BMascarello%2BBarolo%2Bpour.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Another taster asked about changes to the pressing of grapes. Again, a firm “No.” <br />
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Turning our attention to the fruit, today’s Monprivato is more forward, which is not to say riper, just more present with a bright red berry persona, instead of the delicate, almost floral fruit I was accustomed to (this is a vineyard that has often been compared to Rocche). During the question and answer, I asked about replanting, as I had heard that a good amount of replanting had been done recently. Elena confirmed this, stating that it has been more widespread than in the past, yet also confirmed that those plants are not currently being used for Monprivato. Struck out again.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R6fVrddbDds/XzBZv4bvLHI/AAAAAAAATUM/pViuQj1KbnUn8XWOINms1RfKrTdfxe2-gCNcBGAsYHQ/s750/sm%2BGiuseppe%2BMascarello%2BBarolo%2BMonprivato%2BModern_day%2BClassics.jpg" style="clear: right; display: block; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; padding: 1em 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="624" data-original-width="750" height="266" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R6fVrddbDds/XzBZv4bvLHI/AAAAAAAATUM/pViuQj1KbnUn8XWOINms1RfKrTdfxe2-gCNcBGAsYHQ/w320-h266/sm%2BGiuseppe%2BMascarello%2BBarolo%2BMonprivato%2BModern_day%2BClassics.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>As we all continued to try to bend our brains around the apparent differences between older and newer vintages without a satisfactory reason for the differences, another participant asked about yeasts, citing Kerin O’keefe’s book, Barolo and Barbaresco: The King and Queen of Italian Wine, where she explained that Giuseppe Mascarello is using “...a strain of selected Barolo yeasts, BRL 97, created by the University of Turin.” (p.118). Elena confirmed that in 1997, the family did decide to switch from naturally-occurring yeasts to selected yeasts, because they discovered that the fermentations went smoother and were more uniform. This did raise a few eyebrows in the crowd, but the fact is that the majority of wineries around the world use selected yeasts. That said, yeast could be part of the equation, but not the answer.<br />
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As the tasting let out, I found myself leaving without any of the answers I’d hoped for. Don’t get me wrong, the new vintages are good wines, especially the 2010 which has continued to get better over the last few years. But that’s just it; with over a decade of tasting Monprivato, I can’t help but feel that a vintage like 2010 should be an iron vault at this time--impossible to read.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TCcc4kF_TFk/XzBZ-DY-IhI/AAAAAAAATUQ/vroILPgeLWQsEpPFXHcqcGLvv5rbNIXIwCNcBGAsYHQ/s1000/sm%2BMorissio_parcel_within_Monprivato_cropped.jpg" style="clear: right; display: block; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; padding: 1em 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="453" data-original-width="1000" height="145" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TCcc4kF_TFk/XzBZ-DY-IhI/AAAAAAAATUQ/vroILPgeLWQsEpPFXHcqcGLvv5rbNIXIwCNcBGAsYHQ/w320-h145/sm%2BMorissio_parcel_within_Monprivato_cropped.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>This all got me thinking, reading (and re-reading), digging and searching for answers, and through it all, I can’t help but come to one conclusion: the Mascarello family has been experimenting in their vineyards and altering their processes for decades. Is it possible that they have simply experimented and refined their way into a completely different style of wine?<br />
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A Deep Dive on Giuseppe Mascarello and Monprivato</b><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h2S4qomYW7A/XzBajkFg72I/AAAAAAAATUs/1ZdXEkHrJkQEdqNjbnQ5IDRHf8o8C5a0wCNcBGAsYHQ/s1000/sm%2BMauro_Mascarello_in_the_cellar.jpg" style="clear: right; display: block; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; padding: 1em 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="488" data-original-width="1000" height="195" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h2S4qomYW7A/XzBajkFg72I/AAAAAAAATUs/1ZdXEkHrJkQEdqNjbnQ5IDRHf8o8C5a0wCNcBGAsYHQ/w400-h195/sm%2BMauro_Mascarello_in_the_cellar.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>The Mascarello family has a winemaking history that goes back to the mid-1800s. Originally located in Monforte, and working the vineyards of wealthy landowners of the region, the family aspired to own their own vineyards, and by the early 1900s, moved the winery to Castiglione Falletto. The key to their success was acquiring Monprivato, a vineyard located in Castiglione Falletto, with vines that enjoy a southwest exposure, planted in white and grey marl soils rich in limestone. Sourcing fruit from Monprivato as well as purchasing from other sources (Villero and Bussia Soprana among them), Giuseppe Mascarello began to build a reputation as one of the region’s top producers. I can attest to the outstanding quality of the amazing wines from that time, as they rank among the best Barolo I’ve ever tasted.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lBaFudYSOtU/X_IdlN8XT-I/AAAAAAAATeM/ERE6oE6b5f0x6ErXD7QTNqYh69lpNkTqACNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/TowardMonprivato.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1285" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lBaFudYSOtU/X_IdlN8XT-I/AAAAAAAATeM/ERE6oE6b5f0x6ErXD7QTNqYh69lpNkTqACNcBGAsYHQ/s320/TowardMonprivato.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />Today, the cantina resides in Monchiero, and it still incorporates the large Slavonian oak barrels that were purchased by the current owner’s grandfather, Maurizio, in the 1950s. Mauro, the head of toady’s Mascarello family, is the fourth-generation winemaker of the estate, having taken the reins from his father Giuseppe and his grandfather Maurizio in 1967. Any source will tell you that he is a traditionalist, like the generations before him, yet I believe that a better way to describe Mauro is as a progressive. The winery does employ long macerations (by today's standards, 25-30 days) and aging in large Slavonian oak, calling cards of a traditional estate. However, Mauro was bent on refining the winemaking and experimenting in the vineyards to create the absolutely perfect representation of Monprivato terroir, and to be more specific, how that terroir could be communicated using the Michét Nebbiolo clone.<br />
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It all started with the 1970 vintage, the first single-vineyard example of Monprivato, which was created from a small parcel of old vines in the heart of vineyard. Mauro had been instructed by his father that these vines, all of the Michét clone variety, were the best that the family had. Michét is a late-ripening clone of Nebbiolo that is known to give lower yields. In 1920, Mauro’s grandfather, Morissio, had identified the best Michét vines within the vineyard and planted this section using massal selection. The 1970 Monprivato was an unprecedented success and remains one of the iconic examples of the region. With the success of this wine, Mauro decided to use Monprivato to make only one Barolo, a blend of Michét, Lampia, and Rosé Nebbiolo clones from throughout the entire vineyard.<br />
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Yet Mauro had an idea which began with the 1970 vintage. He believed that the vines planted by his grandfather had so perfectly adjusted to the distinct terroir of Monprivato, that they would create a far superior wine if planted throughout the vineyard using massal selection from the estate’s best performing vines. His father before him had a similar idea, having done some replanting in 1963 using the same logic.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-atV6Wb_zHoQ/X_Ic3v2hgqI/AAAAAAAATeI/rdvRvQv-hu0Z5EAbKf2jLnvF0PGPePV3QCPcBGAYYCw/s303/monprivato_cartina_tumb.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="303" data-original-width="277" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-atV6Wb_zHoQ/X_Ic3v2hgqI/AAAAAAAATeI/rdvRvQv-hu0Z5EAbKf2jLnvF0PGPePV3QCPcBGAYYCw/s0/monprivato_cartina_tumb.jpg" /></a></div><br />This began the Cà d’Morissio project, which started in 1983 and continued on through the late nineties. Mauro started by dedicating two acres of Monprivato, where he removed the Rosé vines that were planted, installed drains to help prevent erosion (which had plagued Monprivato in the past), and replanted these locations through massal selection using Michét at high density. Mauro worked block by block, and by 1993 had decided that it was time to put his theory to the test; the Cà d’Morissio Riserva was born. Sourced from the blocks Mauro had experimented on and aged an extra year in smaller Slavonian oak barrels (25-27 hectoliter), Cà d’Morissio continues to only be released when the wine itself is unique enough to stand out from the Barolo Monprivato, if not, it’s blended in. Mauro was so happy with the results of the 1993 and 1995 vintages that he immediately started work on another block of the vineyard in 1996, following the same processes as before.<br />
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The Theory, or maybe just a fool’s ponderings<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sAPflAgZktM/X_IevnNs_uI/AAAAAAAATfk/Z79n-VLCaHc0f2TMsMV0JhPNBF1ZzwtLwCPcBGAYYCw/s2856/Monprivato_Codana_Valentino.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1101" data-original-width="2856" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sAPflAgZktM/X_IevnNs_uI/AAAAAAAATfk/Z79n-VLCaHc0f2TMsMV0JhPNBF1ZzwtLwCPcBGAYYCw/s320/Monprivato_Codana_Valentino.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />As stated on the Giuseppe Mascarello website, prior to 1992, the clonal makeup of Monprivato was Michét 30%, Lampia 45%, and Rosé 25%. I could find no reference of the exact current percentages, but since that time, Mauro has ripped up multiple acres of Rosé clones to replant Michét for the production of Cà d’Morissio. While doing this, he changed the plant density of the vineyard to 5680 plants per acre and added “drainage.” The only reference that I could find relating to the clones planted in Monprivato today comes again from Kerin O’keefe’s book, Barolo and Barbaresco: The King and Queen of Italian Wine, where she explains that beyond the planting of Michét, that “...the rest of Monprivato is cultivated with Lampia clones… planted in the 1960s” (p.117), making no mention of Rosé. What’s more, during the tasting event, Elena Mascarello confirmed that even today, when replanting needs to be done in the vineyard, it is completed using massal selection from the best Michét of the estate.<br />
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Other than the fact that the winery changed from naturally-occurring yeasts to selected yeasts in 1997, we’ve been told that nothing else has changed. The fruit is always destemmed, macerated for about thirty days, fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks (since the early nineties, which is quite common in the region today), employing a soft vinification with gentle pumping over, and then aging in large neutral Botti for three years until bottling.<br />
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Having said that and circling back to where this all started…<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ukn6H5cvbus/XzBXm83wiHI/AAAAAAAATTg/LVEIjmgXJUgNzEvAClz6PmShZMaswPjaQCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/Giuseppe%2BMascarello%2BBarolo%2BGlasses.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1359" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ukn6H5cvbus/XzBXm83wiHI/AAAAAAAATTg/LVEIjmgXJUgNzEvAClz6PmShZMaswPjaQCPcBGAYYCw/s320/Giuseppe%2BMascarello%2BBarolo%2BGlasses.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />Is it possible that the Giuseppe Mascarello winery has forever changed the profile of Monprivato over the course of thirty years by removing clonal and biodiversity from their vineyards, using their best plots for Cà d’Morissio in all but the worst vintages and planting at a higher density in their vineyard?<br />
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This is just a theory, but it’s a theory based on over a decade of experience tasting these wines, and countless (I repeat, countless) hours obsessing over every source and printed piece of material (including the Mascarello website) that I could find. Until a firm answer is found, what I can assure you is that the recent vintages of Giuseppe Mascarello are quite enjoyable, but they are not the same Barolo Monprivato that I have grown to love over the decades. How will they age? It’s anyone's guess. For now, all we can do is love them for what they are.<br />
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<b>On To the Tasting Notes</b><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><div>
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<b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xZAmW_P0ytw/YaJkY_AcLhI/AAAAAAAAkLM/v2YK0apvX6osKQwIATCPtQ78Eo_sF07nQCNcBGAsYHQ/s837/sm%2BGiuseppe%2BMascarello%2BBarolo%2B2013.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="837" data-original-width="600" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xZAmW_P0ytw/YaJkY_AcLhI/AAAAAAAAkLM/v2YK0apvX6osKQwIATCPtQ78Eo_sF07nQCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/sm%2BGiuseppe%2BMascarello%2BBarolo%2B2013.jpg" width="229" /></a></div>Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato 2013</b> - Here I found intense floral perfumes with dusty dried roses up front, followed by notes of ripe strawberry, bright cherry and hints of undergrowth. On the palate, I found a lifted expression, showing feminine textures with pure ripe strawberry, a light dusting of sweet spices and inner floral tones, remaining remarkably fresh and pure throughout, with hints of acid and tannin. The finish was shorter than expected with light strawberry and light, fine grain tannin. (91 points)<br />
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<b>Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato 2012</b> - The nose was reserved with mineral-infused dried strawberry, tart raspberry, stone dust, dried flowers and dusty earth. On the palate, I found wonderfully soft textures with tart raspberry, inner spices and floral perfumes. The finish was medium in length with lingering spice and floral tones. This showed very little in the way of structure, save for a coating of dry inner florals. As much as I enjoyed this, it’s a lighter style of Barolo that depends on grace over staying power. (92 points)<br />
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<b>Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato 2011</b> - The nose showed crushed cherry with an herbal tinge, marine-minerality, and hints of spice that emerged over time. The warmth of the vintage showed only in its sweet cherry fruit, being a bit overripe, yet kept in check through earth tones. On the palate, I found soft, medium-weight textures with pretty notes of strawberry, minerals and light spice. The finish was long, showing crushed cherry and spices, which coated the senses. This is not one for the ages, yet I found it quite enjoyable today. (91 points)<br />
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<b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-72rXBz6Qkqo/YaJkrPCS9yI/AAAAAAAAkLU/PCSk_aYGi2YhAMMUnL3HHt8ve4994Mc7ACNcBGAsYHQ/s869/sm%2BGiuseppe%2BMascarello%2BBarolo%2B2010.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="869" data-original-width="600" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-72rXBz6Qkqo/YaJkrPCS9yI/AAAAAAAAkLU/PCSk_aYGi2YhAMMUnL3HHt8ve4994Mc7ACNcBGAsYHQ/s320/sm%2BGiuseppe%2BMascarello%2BBarolo%2B2010.jpg" width="221" /></a></div>Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato 2010</b> - The nose showed dusty dry earth and notes of raspberry, with sweet and sour brown sauce, then lifted by notes of lavender, hints of licorice and cinnamon. On the palate, I found silky textures with sweet-and-sour cherry, masses of inner floral tones, licorice and spice, yet lacking dimension on the mid-palate. It finished with medium-length and hints of young tannin, yet remained lifted throughout. (94 points)<br />
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<b>Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato 2009</b> - The nose was darker than the surrounding vintages, with marine-influenced minerals giving way to dark moist undergrowth, hints of animal musk, black cherry, raspberry and herbs. On the palate, I found silky, pliant textures with notes of bitter cherry, blackberry, lavender and hints of spice. The finish was medium-long and balanced, showing ripe strawberry and inner florals over hints of grippy tannin. (92 points)<br />
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<b>Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato 2008 </b>- The '08 Monprivato showed a pretty bouquet of dusty, mineral-encased bright cherry, crushed stone, dried roses, soil tones and hints of undergrowth. On the palate, I found zesty, feminine textures, accentuated by brisk acidity with bright cherry and strawberry, sweet herbal tea, saturating mineral tones and the slightest hint of fine tannin. It finished medium-long, fresh and savory, with lingering inner florals, minerals and spice. This is showing beautifully tonight, but it's very hard to gauge how well it will age. (93 points)<br />
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<b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pycnNG_HVA0/YaJlP9KIEyI/AAAAAAAAkLk/0xsMYXYV1ZkTpVxjyBh23o2Rj34tx1YtACNcBGAsYHQ/s819/sm%2BGiuseppe%2BMascarello%2B2006%2B2.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="819" data-original-width="600" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pycnNG_HVA0/YaJlP9KIEyI/AAAAAAAAkLk/0xsMYXYV1ZkTpVxjyBh23o2Rj34tx1YtACNcBGAsYHQ/s320/sm%2BGiuseppe%2BMascarello%2B2006%2B2.jpg" width="234" /></a></div>Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato 2006</b> - The nose was dark and brooding with hints of animal musk up front, then opening to reveal exotic florals, dusty spice, earth, and mineral-infused black cherry. It seemed to seamlessly glide across the palate, where I found silky textures offset by an intense mix of black cherry and tart raspberry, with mineral and savory spice tones emerging along saline-minerals. The finish was long, with a coating of complex tannin offset by brisk acidity and dark red fruit. (96 points)<br />
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<b>Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato 2004 </b>- The nose was intense yet also quite pretty with marine-influenced minerality, dried flowers, undergrowth, hints of rosemary and animal musk. On the palate, I found silky textures with an energizing mix of brisk acids and saline-minerality, as notes of tart cherry and inner floral tones emerged. The finish was medium-long with saturating cherry tones, minerals, hints of spice and lingering tannin. This was highly enjoyable and worth every point, yet it fell short of the 2006, as I craved more persistence on the palate. (94 points)<br />
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<b>Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato 2003</b> - The nose was dark with earth and minerals up front, followed by crushed blackberry, cherry and spicy florals. On the palate, I found silky textures with ripe cherry, violets, brisk acidity and hints of grippy tannin in an unexpectedly balanced and highly enjoyable performance. The finish was medium-long with lingering dark fruits and hints of gruff tannin. This was a beautifully balanced wine for the vintage. (92 points)<br />
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<b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ESv71sRj85w/YaJlqHdt-II/AAAAAAAAkLs/XKqKhnbyvKkXUG31tXtdsfo7Xstzc3vUACNcBGAsYHQ/s1160/sm%2BGiuseppe%2BMascarello%2BBarolo%2B98%2Band%2B96.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1160" data-original-width="750" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ESv71sRj85w/YaJlqHdt-II/AAAAAAAAkLs/XKqKhnbyvKkXUG31tXtdsfo7Xstzc3vUACNcBGAsYHQ/s320/sm%2BGiuseppe%2BMascarello%2BBarolo%2B98%2Band%2B96.jpg" width="207" /></a></div>Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato 1998</b> - The ‘98 showed a mature color in the glass. The nose was dark and earthy with hints of undergrowth, moist fall leaves, sous bois, crushed ripe cherry, and hints of spice. On the palate, I found silky textures with a wave of balancing acidity, notes of tart cherry, spice and balsamic tones with impeccable balance. The finish was long and spicy with saturating dark fruits, moist earth and inner floral tones. Wow. (94 points)<br />
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<b>Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato 1996</b> - The nose showed mineral-infused black cherry and crushed stone, as hints of wild herbs, moist soil and animal musk evolved. On the palate, I found soft textures, which were firmed up by a mix of tart red fruits, minerals and fine tannin, yet the fruit persisted throughout, picking up perfumed florals and spice. It was remarkably balanced yet still very young, with a long and structured finish that showcased intense tart red fruit that saturated the senses. (96 points)<br />
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<b>Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato 1988</b> - The nose was gorgeous, showing dried cherry and undergrowth up front, opening more with time in the glass as the fruit gained richness, changing more to crushed strawberry, dried orange, smoked meats, wild herbs, dusty earth and hints of animal musk. On the palate, I found soft textures with sweet cherry offset by savory minerals with saline spray, spice and zesty acidity. The finish was remarkably long and fresh with lingering dried cherry and inner florals. What a performance from the ‘88, showing perfect balance and maturity. (96 points)<br />
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<b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qbFNgbRB6aU/YaJl73K9JDI/AAAAAAAAkL0/KYtErktZ0K880oAloARrMQ83zK68MUQOgCNcBGAsYHQ/s865/sm%2BGiuseppe%2BMascarello%2BBarolo%2B79%2B85%2B88.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="865" data-original-width="750" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qbFNgbRB6aU/YaJl73K9JDI/AAAAAAAAkL0/KYtErktZ0K880oAloARrMQ83zK68MUQOgCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/sm%2BGiuseppe%2BMascarello%2BBarolo%2B79%2B85%2B88.jpg" width="277" /></a></div>Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato 1985 </b>- The nose was dark and earthy with iron-borne minerality up front, giving way to dried roses, tomato leaf, dusty earth and hints of dried strawberry. On the palate, I found soft yet zesty textures with tart raspberry, dried citrus and hints of lingering tannin. It finished long and a bit spicy, still full of so much life with lingering hints of red berry and rosey florals. This was wonderfully youthful on the palate and finish, promising years of further development. (93 points)<br />
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<b>Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato 1979</b> - The nose showed dark red fruits with dried florals, dusty earth and hints of animal musk. On the palate, I found soft, perfectly resolved, fresh textures with minerals, hints of earth and dried red fruits. It finished with medium-length, showing earthy minerals and inner floral tones. It was very pretty with beautiful energy, yet the fruit has dropped out to show more earth and minerals than anything else. (88 points)<br />
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<b>Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Ca’ d’Morissio 1995 </b>- Here I found a gorgeous, dark and brooding bouquet with animal musk up front, giving way to mineral-infused crushed black cherry, licorice, dried orange, stone dust and dusty roses. On the palate, I found silky textures with saline-mineral thrust, before giving way to tart black cherry, inner rosey florals and youthful fine tannin. The finish was long with lasting fine tannins and mineral-soaked red berry fruit. (94 points)<br />
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<b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JksRWVpkayc/YaJmcjn0qZI/AAAAAAAAkMA/LLNblTJCfF8lp-1fNUMk9unk-osP9DFEwCNcBGAsYHQ/s1043/sm%2BGiuseppe%2BMascarello%2BBarolo%2Bglasses%2B2.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1043" data-original-width="750" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JksRWVpkayc/YaJmcjn0qZI/AAAAAAAAkMA/LLNblTJCfF8lp-1fNUMk9unk-osP9DFEwCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/sm%2BGiuseppe%2BMascarello%2BBarolo%2Bglasses%2B2.jpg" width="230" /></a></div>Is Monprivato a Monopole</b></div><div><br /></div><div>At one time, Mauro Mascarello was thought to have controlled the entire slope of Monprivato, making the vineyard a monopoly for nearly two decades, as no other producer bottled its fruit as a single vineyard. You would need to look all the way back to 1990 for the last Monprivato made by another producer, and that was Brovia. Today it is thought that Giuseppe Mascarello controls over 93% of the vineyard, with only one other producer that I know of who has begun to bottle a Barolo Monprivato: Giovanni Sordo. However, having tasted this wine, it is still far off from the quality, of even the lesser vintages from Mascarello.<b><br /></b>
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<b>What is Massal Selection or Selection Massale</b><br />
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Massal selection is a process of replanting vineyards using cuttings from vines which are identified as superior or better suited to the terroir of a specific location. These cuttings can be obtained through nurseries or from vines within the vineyard that have demonstrated superior performance or health. It’s important not to mistake this for clonal selection, a process carried out in nurseries to propagate the same genetic clone of a vine for planting. In the case of Giuseppe Mascarello, he has been identifying Michet vines (Michet being a clone of Nebbiolo) within Monprivato, and then using massal selection to propagate these vines throughout the rest of the vineyard.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div></div>Eric Guidohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16780641005168603049noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8084232295286066032.post-39395623309405717312020-01-30T09:39:00.001-05:002021-02-28T14:10:08.073-05:00Announcement: Eric Guido Joins Vinous' Editorial Team<h3 style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: "Open Sans", Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">
From <a href="https://vinous.com/" target="_blank"><b>Antonio Galloni's Vinous Media</b></a></h3>
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Dear Friends –<br />
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I am thrilled to announce that Eric Guido has joined <a href="https://vinous.com/" target="_blank">Vinous</a> in the role of Editor, responsible for reviewing the wines of Italy. I have admired Eric’s writing and unique take on wine for many years. His passion, intellectual curiosity and work ethic are second to none.<br />
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Eric will be based in our New York office. His tasting beat will include Montalcino and the many regions that comprise Northern, Central and Southern Italy, with the exception of Piedmont, Chianti Classico and Coastal/Central Tuscany, which I will continue to cover, as I always have.<br />
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Eric, who will be familiar to many subscribers for his insightful postings on YourSay, our subscriber forum, comes to Vinous from the Morrell Wine Group. For the last five years Eric held the position of Director of Wine and Marketing, where he was responsible for driving Morrell's retail marketing campaigns, wine program, and authoring the highly acclaimed Morrell Holiday Catalog. Eric’s formal training in cooking and music round out his diverse personal interests.<br />
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Lastly, I would like to thank Ian D’Agata for his many contributions both to Vinous and Italian wine over what has been a brilliant career. Ian’s final article for Vinous will be his report on the 2015 Brunellos. We wish him all the best in his future endeavors.<br />
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Please join me in welcoming Eric to Vinous. I am sure you are going to love his take on the vast, ever-changing landscape that Italian wine is today.<br />
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<a href="https://vinous.com/" target="_blank">Antonio Galloni</a><br />
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<br />Eric Guidohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16780641005168603049noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8084232295286066032.post-33695481184611464132020-01-24T08:58:00.000-05:002020-01-24T08:58:13.456-05:00No Fiasco In Sight: With Marco RicasoliThe next addition to my video interview series is now live on YouTube. Join me as I sit with Marco Ricasoli to discuss his family's long history in Tuscany and Chianti Classico. This family can lay claim to being a major player in the region since the 7th century, as well as being a part of creating the original recipe for Chianti Classico in the late 1800's. However, it's what Marco is doing today at the Rocca di Montegrossi estate, that has me excited. Enjoy!<br />
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Also, make sure to check out our vertical tasting of his highly acclaimed Chianti Classico Gran Selezione, The San Marcellino, at <a href="https://www.morrellwine.com/blog/No-Fiasco-In-Sight-The-Rise-of-Chianti-Classico-g618983848" target="_blank">The Cellar Table Blog</a><br />
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<br />Eric Guidohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16780641005168603049noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8084232295286066032.post-83691580859974703732020-01-03T14:35:00.001-05:002020-01-03T14:35:51.052-05:00Can Paolo Bea Solve The Montefalco Paradox<h4>
I'm thinking about Italian wine, from north to south, about all of the great reds that come to mind.</h4>
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Only ten years ago, Barolo, Brunello and a smattering of Super Tuscans, were the handful of wines that could lay claim to international renown. Back then, the wines of Etna were in their infant stages, and Taurasi had proven itself only to the insiders, collectors and Italophiles that took the time to understand and embrace it. Chianti Classico was still associated with pizza parlors, and Barbaresco was nothing more than the little sister to Barolo. However, all of that has changed in recent years. No longer do we need to make excuses for Aglianico in the south, explain the value of Sicily, or make the case for Barbaresco’s unique attributes. As for Chianti, its popularity has exploded, and it’s now giving Brunello a run for its money.<br />
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However, there is one wine that you’ve probably heard rumblings of, that hasn’t risen to the occasion, and that’s Sagrantino.<br />
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<h4>
So the question is, why?</h4>
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This big, gusty, structured red seemed to have everything going for it: hailing from a classic, hilltop medieval village, able to age and mature for decades, and championed by a winery that had won multiple awards for their wines, which put Montefalco on the map.<br />
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So why are we not celebrating the elevation of the Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG into the same company of Barolo, Brunello, Turasi and the like?<br />
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In my opinion, it’s not the small size of the vineyards planted, the gripping tannins that Sagrantino is known for, or a lack of marketing. No; in my opinion, it’s the winemaking.<br />
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In an attempt to make Sagrantino more palatable for the average consumer, or international consumer, the majority of winemakers continue to age their wines in new oak. Even the world-renowned Arnaldo Caprai winery, and their award-winning 25 Anni, represents what is possible when Sagrantino has been tamed, or sheathed, in a cloak of French Barrique. I consider this to be a horrible shame when you consider that of all of the producers in Montefalco, Caprai should have the raw materials to make some of the greatest expressions of varietal wine in the region. Here we have one of the first wineries to take Sagrantino seriously, going as far back as 1971, eight years prior to the creation of the Montefalco DOC. Caprai brought vineyard analysis and clonal research to a region that was filled with farmers who made local wines for local palates. Their success has a lot to do with why so many other producers continue to make Sagrantino in this “international” style.<br />
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However, there is still hope for Sagrantino--I haven’t given up on its ability to produce one of the greatest wines in Italy, and the reason why is Paolo Bea.<br />
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Before I get too deeply into how Paolo Bea has proven Sagrantino’s worth to me, let’s first delve a bit into what makes the raw materials in Montefalco so precious in the first place.<br />
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Located in the landlocked region of Umbria, Montefalco (or “falcon mountain”) suffers from being surrounded by some pretty serious “wine-related” neighbors. With Tuscany to the northwest, Marche to the northeast, Lazio to the southwest, and Abruzzo extremely close in the southeast, Umbria and Sagrantino compete with the popular Sangiovese, Aglianico and Montepulciano grapes. That said, two things that Umbria has been able to claim fame to are production of top-shelf olive oils and black truffles from Norcia.<br />
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<h4>
However, they also have a perfect terroir for the production of world-class red wine.</h4>
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The DOC and DOCGs of Montefalco and Sagrantino sit in a basin, surrounded by the Apennines mountains, growing in soils rich in clay with a mix of sand and limestone. However, as you push into higher elevations, rising up to 1500 feet, you’ll also find clay-calcrete, an almost cement-like blend of clay, gravel, sand, and silt, making it difficult for vines to survive, but as they say, the strong always do. The region is warm yet moderated by winds coming down from the Apennines, along with Meditarainan influences carried across the Tiber river.<br />
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Sagrantino, renowned for both its deep red color, but also powerful tannins, can be difficult to tame. In fact, going back centuries, Sagrantino’s first leading role was in the production of sweet wines, where their power and broad tannins would be balanced by rich textures and riper fruit developed through Passito (air-drying the grapes). There is also Sangiovese, as Umbria sits in the heart of the Sangiovese belt, producing, what is, in my opinion, a spicier version than their neighbors, with grippier tannins to help set them apart. These two grapes make up the lion’s share of red grapes produced in Montefalco.<br />
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The DOC Rosso di Montefalco is composed primarily of Sangiovese from 60-80% with a minimum of 10% Sagrantino and other red varieties. While the DOCG, Sagrantino di Montefalco must be 100% Sagrantino, a grape whose intensity of color is only matched by its intensity of tannic bite--which brings us back to Paolo Bea, one of the few producers I know of that age their wine entirely in large, neutral wood, and yet manage to create wines that require aging, but are also impossible to ignore in their youth. In my opinion, this should be the benchmark of the region.<br />
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The Paolo Bea Paradigm</h3>
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What keeps Paolo Bea flying under the radar is a combination of low quantity, no desire to market themselves, and an unwillingness to submit wines for review to the press, which sounds quite a bit like another producer who I have often compared them to: Giuseppe Quintarelli.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">Giampiero Bea</span></td></tr>
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The history of the Bea family is closely tied to Montefalco, going back as far as the 16th century. This is a family of farmers who have cultivated olives, grains, vegetables and grapes since the beginning, maintaining a wholly natural ecosystem, which is focused on the fruits that nature provides them. There is no winemaking wizardry and no chemicals in the vineyard or winery. Instead, it’s a complete respect for what each vintage brings to the table, and the Bea family’s desire to bottle that expression, capturing the essence of terroir, without taking anything away. This approach has obviously worked, as vintage after vintage, whether it was warm, dry, wet, abundant, short or simply perfect, presents something pleasurable to the senses. What’s more, supply could never fill the demand that has been created for the wines, and the family has no interest in expanding. Instead, the current generation, represented by Giampiero and Giuseppe, continues to work their 5 hectares of vineyards by hand, choosing to only use only ⅓ of their 15-hectare property for the production of grapes, even though they could easily continue planting to expand. Their vineyards occupy the higher elevations of Montefalco terroir, reaching up to 1500 feet above sea level, and taking advantage of a diverse mix of soils. It’s here that they have begun to vineyard-designate their lineup of Sagrantino, to further accentuate the esteemed terroir of the region.<br />
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In the winery, gentle macerations and slow fermentations can last from three weeks to as many as seven, before the wine is placed into steel tanks for a year to rest, and then large neutral wood for up to two years. At this point, the wines are bottled without filtration and extremely low, if any, added sulfur, and left to rest for another year. This process is a long, painstaking effort that is extremely costly to the producer as well, and it results in the 2012 vintage being their current release, seven years after harvest.<br />
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However, the proof is in every bottle of Paolo Bea. Don’t get me wrong; this is natural winemaking in the extreme, and as a result you’ll sometimes find some volatility or a large amount of sediment. However, for every slightly off bottle of Paolo Bea, there are ten more that are otherworldly, kaleidoscopic, ethereal examples of what Sagrantino and Sangiovese are capable of from Umbria. The fact is, once you taste a Paolo Bea Sagrantino, you’ll be asking yourself why more producers aren’t trying to replicate their processes. However, just like the wines of Giuseppe Quintarelli, it’s almost impossible to recreate such a perfect union between terroir, wine, and family.<br />
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Yet, I wonder why other producers don’t seem open to trying.</h4>
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Here is the rub: in a time when the majority of consumers are looking for more varietal purity, less “wine making”, and the ability to observe a “sense of place” from each bottle of wine, how can Sagrantino ever become the next great Italian red, as most wineries continue to produce it in a contradictory fashion?<br />
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As for Paolo Bea, I’ve been a fan for many years now, going back to the 2003 vintage, and I thought it was about time that I checked in on some of the current releases and maturing vintages, to not only give myself a good idea of where the wines are going, but to also share the results with our readers. I focused on the reds, but it’s also important to mention that Bea excels with white wines as well (a story for another time). It also pays to mention that Bea excels in both warm and cool vintages, lending very different expressions of place, but as I already said--it’s about what Mother Nature gives, not what they make of it.<br />
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Enjoy!<br />
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<h3>
On to the Tasting Notes.</h3>
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The <b>San Valentino</b> vineyard hosts 50-year-old vines, planted in soils dominated by clay. It sits at 1300 feet altitude and creates Bea’s open-knit expression that is amazing upon release but also matures for up to a decade in the cellar. The composition is 70% Sangiovese, 15% Sagrantino, and 15% Montepulciano.<br />
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<b>2012 Paolo Bea Umbria San Valentino</b> - What an incredible bouquet on the 2012 San Valentino. It comes in at 1.5% less ABV than the previous vintage and shows depths of dark, earthy, almost animal-like complexities. Here I found balsamic spice over dried strawberries, with moist dark soil tones, crushed lava stone, dusty dried florals, and hints of brown sugar. On the palate, silky textures flooded the senses with flavors of sour cherry, tangerine, savory spice, and masses of exotic inner florals, as zesty acids made the mouth water, while concentrated tart red fruits and hints of tannin tugged at the side of my cheeks. The finish was long, zesty, spicy, and tart, yet still so energetic, as the wine’s vibrant acids refused to give in to the intensity within. The result was a spellbinding and tactile experience that is impossible not to like, and it’s easily one of my favorite vintages to date for San Valentino. (<i>93 points</i>)<br />
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The <b>Cerrete </b>vineyard sits at the highest point in Montefalco, between 1300 and 1500 feet above sea level. The soil is clay and limestone-infused with small pebbles from an ancient riverbed, and used to create Bea’s most ethereal yet complex Sagrantino. However, the Bea family also produces the Rosso de Veo from the young vines here. Frankly, you’d be amazed that these are “young” vines.<br />
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<b>2011 Paolo Bea Rosso de Véo</b> - It's amazing to think that this is Paolo Bea's "young vine" bottling of the Cerrete vineyard, as it shows so much intensity, yet balance as well. Here I found a rich and seductive bouquet of crushed raspberry, dried cherries, smoke, dried red florals, spice box, hints of undergrowth, and animal musk. On the palate, silky textures unfolded to reveal black cherry, made vibrant through zesty acids, with a mix of spicy florals, tongue-curling notes of tangerine, cinnamon, and some of the best managed Sagrantino tannins I have ever experienced. The finish was amazingly long, as raspberry and cherry tones seemed to linger for two to three minutes, along with sweet and savory spices, minerals, inner florals, and a hint of tannin. This is a gorgeous wine that may have been helped by the warmer vintage, yet it achieved something very special nonetheless. I can't wait to taste the 2011 Cerrete. (<i>93 points</i>)<br />
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The <b>Pipparello</b> vineyard is a hilltop site in Montefalco at 1300 feet above sea level. The soil is clay and gravel. Here, the Bea family farms varying percentages (depending on vintage) around 60% Sangiovese, 25% Montepulciano, and 15% Sagrantino to produce their Montefalco Rosso.<br />
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<b>2011 Paolo Bea Montefalco Rosso Riserva Pipparello</b> - The nose was dark and brooding, as masses of balsamic-infused black cherries, sweet herbs, brown (almost, curry-like) spices, fresh tobacco, and sweet minerals lifted from the glass. On the palate, I found silky textures, which caressed the senses, just as a wave of tart cherry mixed with zesty acids, minerals and tannin set in, creating a cheek-puckering experience. The finish was incredibly long and structured, with continued intensity from the palate, as grippy tannin held firm against notes of tart cherry fruit, black tea, spice, and minerals. Pipparello is a massive and towering wine in this vintage, with a tight finish, yet a lovely note of sweet red berries lingered for minutes on the back palate.<br />
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It's a serious "experience wine" that just needs a few more years to come together. I, for one, can't wait to see how it matures. (<i>94 points</i>)<br />
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<b>2008 Paolo Bea Montefalco Rosso Riserva Pipparello</b> - The nose was dark and brooding with masses of dried black cherry and cedar up front; yet beneath it, notes of exotic spice, tobacco, dried flowers, crushed raspberry, and undergrowth gained volume and depth with time in the glass, until they permeated the senses entirely. On the palate, I found soft, silky textures, which seemed to hover on the senses, offset by a tart acid core, yet also complemented by enveloping bittersweet cherry, quinine, spice, and inner earth tones. The finish was incredibly long with saturating dried cherry fruit, sweet inner florals, hints of gruff tannin--yet juicy and fresh, with a note of hard red candies and licorice which seemed to literally last for minutes on the mid-palate. (<i>93 points</i>)<br />
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<b>2005 Paolo Bea Montefalco Rosso Riserva Pipparello</b> - The 2005 Paolo Bea Pipparello Riserva showed a bouquet of ripe crushed cherry and raspberry, infused with dried orange, exotic spice, and dusty sweet florals, before evolving to show undergrowth, savory herbs and hints of animal musk. On the palate, I found soft textures offset by brisk acids, as fleshy, zesty red fruits caressed the senses, giving way to a mix of savory spice and cheek-puckering minerality. The finish was long, with a tart twang of red berry fruit and acids, as hints of lingering tannin faded against a backdrop of inner florals. (<i>94 points</i>)<br />
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<b>2003 Paolo Bea Montefalco Rosso Riserva Pipparello</b> - The nose was dark and savory, showing ripe plum, crushed black cherry, sage, cherry tobacco, balsamic spice, cumin, and hints of licorice. On the palate, silky, yet remarkably fresh textures, gave way to zesty spiced cherry with energizing acidity, sweet and savory spices, herbs, and florals which reminded me of childhood Christmas with hints of lingering tannin. The finish was long and fresh, as zesty acids created a mouthwatering experience, coupled with resonating cherry and spices. It's amazing to think that this is the product of a warm vintage. (<i>92 points</i>)<br />
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The <b>Pagliaro</b> vineyard is situated at 1300 feet in altitude, and it is dedicated in large part to Sagrantino. This is the location that produces Bea’s flagship Sagrantino.<br />
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<b>2012 Paolo Bea Sagrantino di Montefalco Secco Pagliaro </b>- The ‘12 Pagliaro showed depths of red berry fruit with balsamic spice, crushed plum, sweet herbs, black licorice, dark earth, and a hint of volatility on the nose. On the palate, silky textures gave way to concentrated tart black and red fruits, as dark mineral tones, savory spice, and notes of black tea soaked the senses, while mounting tannin quickly dried them out. The finish was long, structured, and almost chewy, showing gripping tannin with lingering dried black cherry, saline minerals, and savory herbs in an imposing expression of Sagrantino. I can only imagine a decade or more until the 2012 reaches maturity, yet I believe it’s worth the wait, as the wine is poised like a bomb waiting to explode. (<i>95 points</i>)<br />
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<b>2011 Paolo Bea Sagrantino di Montefalco Secco Pagliaro </b>- The nose was dark and intense, leaning toward earth tones yet with a massive wave of crushed black cherry to balance it. With time in the glass, cherry seemed to change to ripe strawberry, as sweet spices, smoky minerals, tobacco, and woodland earth tones joined the mix. On the palate, soft, caressing textures washed effortlessly across the senses, with a graceful lift I’ve seldom experienced, showing a combination of both ripe and tart red fruits, herbal tea notes, sweet inner florals, and exotic spice, all kept lively through brisk acidity. The finish was dry and long, exposing the large-scale Sagrantino tannins I had expected, yet there was a soft edge to them here, making the experience both structured yet enjoyable at this stage. Dried black cherries lingered, as well as minerals, a hint of orange citrus, and lovely inner florals, as a sweet note of red candies seemed to resonate for well over a minute. (<i>94 points</i>)<br />
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<b>2005 Paolo Bea Sagrantino di Montefalco Secco Pagliaro </b>- The nose displayed fresh mineral intensity and moist, dark earth tones up front, evolving to show savory brown spices over ripe black cherry, backed by wild herbs and a hint of animal musk. On the palate, velvety textures flooded the senses with waves of dark red fruits, yet firmed up as brisk acids settled in, unveiling savory herbal tones and a tart twang of peppery spice; yet through it all, grippy tannin slowly gained strength. The finish was long and structured, yet its resonating acids allowed the '05 Pagliaro to sign off on a "early maturity" note, as lingering cherry and spice slowly faded amidst dried inner florals. (<i>94 points</i>)<br />
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<b>Credits and Resources</b><br />
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Article, Tasting notes and bottle photos by Eric Guido<br />
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Special thank you to <b><a href="https://madrose.com/" target="_blank">Rosenthal Wine Merchants</a></b>, and Blake Johnson for use of family and vineyard photos.<br />
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Click to visit the official<b> <a href="http://www.paolobea.com/en/1/1/home.html" target="_blank">Paolo Bea</a> </b>website.<br />
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<br />Eric Guidohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16780641005168603049noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8084232295286066032.post-18621512090805674072019-12-13T15:53:00.000-05:002019-12-13T16:28:46.178-05:00A Year in Review & Top Wines of 2019<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Touring Vineyards with Daniel Landi</td></tr>
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Here we are, quickly approaching the end of 2019, a year that seemed to fly by due to just how jam-packed it was with events, tastings, and memorable moments. It was also a year of new discoveries, which I consider myself lucky to have been a part of, and I am very happy to share these with my readers. What's more, I gained a new respect for a region that I had dismissed to a certain degree, and in doing so have now opened my eyes to a category of domestic wine that will be filling my cellar for decades to come. As for tastings, I was fortunate to have been included in some of the most amazing events I can remember throughout my time as a wine lover, which became apparent as I toiled with the winner of my Top Back-Vintage Wine of the Year. And so, without further ado:<br />
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<b>Welcome to my 2019 year in review.</b></h3>
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This was a year that started at a high point of tastings, leading off with a dinner at the new <a href="https://www.legacyrecordsrestaurant.com/" target="_blank">Legacy Records</a>, NYC. The hype is warranted at this trendy westside location, with the Honey Lacquered Duck being the food highlight of the night. As for wine, however, starting the year with a taste of the 1995 Poggio di Sotto Brunello Riserva set a high standard for the year. Anyone that follows my notes probably knows that I am a huge fan of the Piero Palmuci era of Poggio di Sotto - the only sad thing is how expensive these wines have become. However, this is a rare occasion where it’s truly warranted. This evening also began a series of vintage Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo tastings that continued throughout the year (and yes, I feel blessed for that).<br />
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As we moved into February, like most years, the onslaught of producer visits and organized tastings began. Keep in mind that there isn’t much for a winemaker to do in the winery or vineyards during the months of January and February, so most get on the road to visit accounts and talk about new vintages. One of the standouts this year was, undoubtedly, Luca Currado of the <a href="https://www.vietti.com/en/" target="_blank">Vietti winery</a>, who in conjunction with <a href="https://www.siptripitaly.com/" target="_blank">Jeff Porter</a> (ex-Bastianich Beverage Director and the mastermind behind Sip Trip), held a focused tasting of the Vietti crus that all go into making the Barolo Castiglione. The Castiglione Barolo is one of the best values to be found in the region, vintage after vintage, and at this tasting, Luca went into detail to explain the terroir of each vineyard, just how important they are from an individual standpoint, and how each of them affects the final blend of Castiglione. It was eye-opening, to say the least.<br />
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Next up was a memorable <a href="https://morrellwinebar.com/the-high-water-mark-1999-barolo/" target="_blank">20-year retrospective of 1999 Barolo</a>, organized by our private Barolo group, which was formed through the <a href="https://vinous.com/" target="_blank">Vinous</a> forums. It was a remarkable evening, showing how this vintage has slowly worked its way toward maturity, and in doing so, proved its worth. 1999 fell through the cracks for a large number of collectors since it landed in the middle of an amazing streak of great vintages in Barolo, but its importance is apparent. My closing remarks from that evening still echo clear: “Do you have enough 1999 Barolo in your cellar?”<br />
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From there, an event I look forward to each year: I started to gear up for <a href="https://vinous.com/" target="_blank">Antonio Galloni’s</a>, La Festa del Barolo. What made the 2019 edition of Antonio’s event truly special was his Rare Wine Dinner, held at Nomad’s rooftop and featuring a rare vertical of large-format, Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate Riserva. This was a once-in-a-lifetime tasting, with the majority of the wines coming from one collector’s cellar, and a bottling that is never commercially released. The only way to build a collection such as this was to be a friend of the family or a long-standing, regular customer at the cellar door for decades. Not only was it like tasting history, it also showed how much provenance counts--the wines were pristine. This was also the night that I tasted my Top Back Vintage Wine of the Year (hint, hint).<br />
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As the year moved on and tastings continued to present themselves, one that stands out and opened my eyes to a neglected category was <a href="https://www.latableenyc.com/" target="_blank">La Tablee</a>, which featured wines from the Rhone, where each producer put a new vintage against a mature one for attendees to taste. The Rhone, particularly the south, has always represented a love-hate relationship for me, as I was introduced to it in the heights of the Parker Era of wines from the region. 2005, 2007, and 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape still lines my cellar, but I find those vintages a little hard to stomach. That said, what this tasting gave me was a newfound respect for the “lesser vintages”, which have since provided me with a great deal of pleasure, 2004, 2006, and 2012 being years that I follow closely now. What’s more, if you haven’t tasted the wines from the 2015 through 2017 vintages, then you don’t know what you’re missing. Châteauneuf du Pape has completely upped its game.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tasting with Gonzalo Iturriaga of Vega Sicilia</td></tr>
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Next up was a sit-down with Gonzalo Iturriaga, head winemaker of <a href="https://morrellwinebar.com/a-kaleidoscopic-view-on-vega-sicilia/" target="_blank">Vega Sicilia</a>, who was showing the most recent vintages from all of the Vega properties across Spain and even into Hungary. What struck me most was how these wines have evolved over the short period of time that I’ve had the pleasure of tasting them. Spain is changing right before our eyes, and Vega isn’t missing a beat. Little did I know at the time that this tasting would be followed by a trip to Spain only two months later, but not to see the historic properties. Instead, this was a trip to visit the “off-the-beaten-path” producers of the region, and what better way to preface such a trip than by reading Luis Gutierrez’s recent book, <a href="https://www.amazon.com/The-new-vignerons/dp/8408180193/ref=sr_1_1?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIoZe3q7uz5gIVGIeGCh2vvgzZEAAYASAAEgLcn_D_BwE&hvadid=249396936386&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9067609&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=8679612183097795408&hvtargid=kwd-396427549889&hydadcr=22536_9636732&keywords=the+new+vignerons&qid=1576268954&sr=8-1" target="_blank">The New Vignerons</a>. I was enthralled by the The New Vignerons, which turned out to be an easy page-turner, filled with new producer names and regions that I had never thought to explore. It was a great preface to my visit, which brings me to my most memorable moment of 2019--my trip to Spain.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Preparing to climb to Tumba del Rey Moro</td></tr>
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Having already been to the major wine-producing regions of Spain, I thought I had a good idea of what to expect, but little did I know that this trip would introduce me to a whole new way of thinking about the region. Today’s Spain is no longer about centuries of tradition and trying to be or replicate the prestige of any other wine-producing region. Instead, it’s about defining terroir, looking to locations that have over a century's worth of vinous history, yet had never previously been known outside of the small mountain-top villages that enjoyed them. Names like Dominio del Aguila, Comando G, Envinate, Casa Castillo, and just about anything with Raul Perez’s name attached to it are sure bets for the future. The only problem is how limited they are.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chris Figgins of Figgins Family and Leonetti</td></tr>
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As is usually the case, the travel period of each year seems to go at breakneck speed, which brings me to the next trip of 2019, and my realization of just how important this oft-forgotten region of domestic wine is: <a href="https://morrellwinebar.com/not-bordeaux-or-napa-washington-state-wine/" target="_blank">Washington State</a>. My trip out west to Washington proved that this is a category to watch. As we all lament over the cost and limited nature of California Cabernet and Bordeaux blends, here we have a region that produces some of the best examples that I’ve tasted in years, and they’re doing it at a fraction of the price. What’s more, these aren’t California look-alikes, nor are they trying to be Bordeaux. Instead, Washington falls comfortably in the middle of the two; lovers of both the Old World and the new can find a lot to like here.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Five Years of <br />
Morrell Catalogs</td></tr>
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My return home meant the start of the <a href="https://view.publitas.com/morrell-wine/morrell-fall-holiday-2019-catalog/page/1" target="_blank">2019 Morrell Wine Catalog</a>, a time that I’m incredibly proud of, but as is usually the case, envelops the entire months of July through October. In the end, it’s always been worth the effort, and this year was no different. Volume 5 of Morrell Wine’s catalog is the largest (184 pages), most comprehensive version to date, along with a digital version that contains 240 pages worth of content. Each year, I struggle with the dilemma of how to outdo the year before. This year, it was through the introduction of many new producers that were discovered throughout the year. Even the cover is a departure from the norm, showcasing one of the most dramatic vineyards I’ve ever encountered: the old vines of Pintia in Toro, Spain.<br />
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With November came our gearing up for the Holidays, as well as sneaking in one more Giuseppe Rinaldi tasting for good measure, courtesy of a good friend and collector. But also, the start of a new project which I’m very proud of, and that’s the new producer video interview series, which began with <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ANwpTW-xj-U" target="_blank">Giuseppe Vajra of G.D. Vajra</a>, and has now also includes <a href="https://youtu.be/lknHFWlrVQ0" target="_blank">Claudia Cigliuti</a> and <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MY4B8rSVvIw" target="_blank">Andrea Sottimano</a>. Being a collector puts me in a position where I find myself with a lot of questions for winemakers, which I believe consumers are eager to know the answers to as well. Keep an eye out for many more to come in 2020. This is something that I’ve wanted to do for many years.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Behind The Scenes with <br />
Andrea Sottimano</td></tr>
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Which brings us to December and what has yet to come. I know the holiday season always presents some great tasting opportunities and surprises, but what’s gotten me even more excited is what 2020 will bring. In fact, I’ve never been so eager to get a jump on a new year as I am right now, because I have a feeling that 2020 will be EPIC. Until then, enjoy my top wines of 2019, and cheers to the new year ahead of us.<br />
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<h3>
<b>Eric Guido’s Top Wines of 2019</b></h3>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Daniel Landi of Comando G</td></tr>
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Spain, Italy and Washington hold the top spots of my list this year, and each of these wines has earned their place. In fact, 5 years ago, I would never have believed you if you had told me that these would be my top three wines. Why? When it comes to Spain, all I had the opportunity to taste were oak-slicked wines of dark ripe fruit. As for Fontodi in Tuscany, I was a devout lover of Vigna del Sorbo, and I would always say that Fallianello was too “Internationally-styled”. And then there’s Washington, which I respected, but simply didn’t understand at the time. However, today, Spain has a new pulse, Fontodi and Tuscany has achieved an unprecedented increase in quality and level of balance, and Washington continues to refine, improve, and also benefit from one of the best recent vintages: 2016.<br />
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<b>2016 Familia Nin-Ortiz Garnacha Priorat Nit de Nin Coma D'en Romeu</b> - Now this is unique and highly enjoyable, showing a display of dried strawberries, offset by spicy orange zest, hints of lime, exotic spice, savory herbs, dried red florals, smoky minerals and hints of brown sugar. On the palate, I found velvety textures, enlivened by fresh acidity, continuing the citrus theme, as ripe red berry fruits, sweet spices, and hints of fine tannin settled on the senses. Thoroughly enjoyable from start to the long, long finish, showing saturating minerality, spices, red fruits and hints of wild herbs, as lingering acids buzzed upon the senses. (<i>97 points</i>)<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">To My Surprise, Flaccianello Edged out <br />
VdS in 2016</td></tr>
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<b>2016 Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT</b> - The nose was alluringly dark, spicy and floral, with crushed stone, giving way to blackberry, savory meats, animal tones and wild herbs. On the palate, I found silky textures offset by zesty acidity, with saturating spices and mineral-infused dark fruits cascading across the senses in a wonderfully fresh expression, before fine tannins settled in. The finish was long, almost salty and savory, with tart blackberry and minerals soaking the senses with grippy tannins. Wow. A totally different expression of young Flaccianello, and I like it a lot. In fact, I’m noticing that Flaccianello has been impressing me a bit more than Vigna del Sorbo in recent vintages. (<i>97 points</i>)<br />
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<b>2016 Leonetti Cellar Reserve Walla Walla Valley</b> - Here I found a mix of dark, herbal-infused fruit, with lifting mineral tones and sweet spice. On the palate, velvety textures host a wave of ripe dark fruits, sweet spice, and minerals, as inner florals emerged, along with saturating tannins. The finish was long, intense, spicy, but also perfectly balanced, as dark fruit and tannin slowly faded from the senses. The 2016 Reserve is already showing so beautifully, yet it is also built for the long haul. (<i>97 points</i>)<br />
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Following up my top three is a series of wines that are almost impossible to categorize by quality. In fact, wines holding the fourth through tenth spots are all overperformers. In many cases, they are overlooked or misunderstood, but in my mind, they represent the future of each region.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Like Splitting Hairs Trying To Decide:<br />
The 2015 Scavino Barolo Collection</td></tr>
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<b>2015 Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric dël Fiasc</b> - The nose was intense and viral, as the bouquet wafted up from the glass with masses of dark red fruit, crushed stone, dried rosy florals, wild herbs and smoke. On the palate, I found silky textures, displaying fleshy ripe cherry offset by zesty spices, minerals and acids. The finish was long, resonating on mineral-infused dark red fruits with energizing acids and balsamic spice, as fine tannins slowly mounted. This is so easy to like already, but it is structured and balanced for the long haul. (<i>96 points</i>)<br />
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<b>2016 Daniel Gómez Jiménez Landi Vino de la Tierra de Castilla El Reventón RV</b> - The nose was slightly restrained, yet very, very pretty, showing fresh, ripe strawberries off the vine, moist earth, dusty sweet spices, a mix of exotic florals, stone dust, and hints of white pepper. On the palate, I found silky-soft textures, with an almost-creamy feel, delivering a sweet but peppery display of ripe and savory cherry, raspberry sauce, confectionary spices, minerals and wonderfully balancing acidity. The finish was long, but subtle, with pretty red fruits, red licorice, spice, and masses of tactile inner florals, as I felt a warming, pleasing sensation of heat going down. What a crazy wine and so easy to like already. (<i>96 points</i>)<br />
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<b>2016 Sottimano Barbaresco Pajoré </b>- The ‘16 Pajore was pure elegance in a glass. The nose showed dark wild berries, dried roses, spice box, dusty earth and hints of floral undergrowth. On the palate, I found silky textures over a weighty framework, as brisk acidity added poise, showing a mix of cherries and strawberries, with sweet inner florals and spice. It was so balanced and, at times, pliant. As its youthful tannins mounted, the finish slowly resolved into an expression of dried red fruits and clenching tannin. (<i>96 points</i>)<br />
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<b>2013 San Giusto a Rentennano La Ricolma Toscana IGT</b> - The ‘13 La Ricolma showed a darker and spicier expression than the vintages surrounding it. Here I found a bouquet of crushed black raspberry, tart cherry, sage, dusty earth tones, stone dust and dried florals. On the palate, silky textures were contrasted by savory spice, minerals and lively acidity, as an intense mix of saturating red and blue fruits bombarded the senses, leaving youthful tannins in their wake. The finish was long and structured, as zesty acids gave life to lingering tart cherry, spice and minerals. There are many years of evolution in store for the ‘13, and anyone who has it in their cellar will be very happy in another ten years. (<i>96 points</i>)<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cristiana Tiberio with Levi Dalton <br />
and Giuseppe Palmieri</td></tr>
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<b>2015 Tiberio Trebbiano d'Abruzzo Fonte Canale</b> - The nose was deeply expressive, showing more like a steely white Burg than what you’d expect from an Italian Bianco. Here I found a display of rich white stone fruits, savory minerals, rubbed sage, sea air, and hints of spice. On the palate, I found round textures on a medium-bodied frame showing savory minerals, green apple, young peach, and saline-infused yellow citrus. The finish was long, with saturating mineral tones, resonating tart apple acidity, hints of lemon peel, and inner florals. (<i>95 points</i>)<br />
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<b>2016 Domaine Charvin Châteauneuf-du-Pape </b>- The nose was incredibly fresh and pretty, showing crushed stone with dusty, violet pastille infused blackberry, fresh black cherry, and dark, dried floral tones. On the palate, I found velvety textures, yet still so fresh and lifted by brisk acids, seeming like liquid violet florals splashing across all of the senses, showing a mix of blue and black fruits with sweet spice, minerals and hints of tannin. The finish was fresh, with just a hint of heat, displaying saturating young tannin and dark floral-infused black fruits. This is so fresh yet still structured to age. I can imagine that 2-3 years in the cellar will reveal an even better experience. Wow! (<i>95 points</i>)<br />
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<b>2016 Domaine Saint-Damien Gigondas La Louisiane</b> - The nose was intense, with a complex display of blackberry, crushed stone, smoke, incense shop, exotic spice, wild mountain herbs, pepper and hints of violet flowers. On the palate, I found silky, verging on velvety, textures, offset by a mix of compact blackberry and cherry fruit, followed by spices, minerals and fine tannin, which all seemed quite poised, like a bomb waiting to go off, as brisk acidity kept the experience juicy and pleasurable, and an inner floral note of violets toward the finale. The finish was long and structured, as fine tannins saturated the senses, leaving savory minerals and dried black fruits to linger on and on. This is a serious Gigondas, distinctly savory, and in need of some time in the cellar. It's a gorgeous wine. (<i>95 points</i>)<br />
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Wines eleven through thirteen hold a special place in my heart, as I originally intended this to be a “Top Ten” list, but I just couldn’t leave them out. Each of these wines truly moved me. Granted, all three of them are very limited, but in my opinion, they are all worth seeking out, and they represent amazing value in their category.<br />
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<b>2016 Domaine Georges Vernay Côte-Rôtie Maison Rouge</b> - The nose was gorgeous, with purple florals giving way to smoky crushed stone, blackberries, a dusting of violet candies, and sweet spice. On the palate, I found soft textures contrasted by salty minerals, tart black fruits, brisk acids and savory spice. The finish was long, saturating the senses with tart black fruits, savory dried meats, minerals and young tannins. This is just a baby, and with so much potential. (<i>95 points</i>)<br />
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<b>2017 Montsecano Pinot Noir</b> - The nose was gorgeous and exotic, more lifted than the 2016, as a burst of orange and yellow citrus gave way to bright strawberry, sweet, dusty minerals, a bouquet of fresh florals and spice. On the palate, I found silky, pure red-fruited textures, guided by laser-like acidity, as a mix of saline-minerals, tangerine and sweet herbs flooded the senses. The finish was long, yet quite feminine and graceful, echoing the citrus-tinged red fruits from the nose and palate, while showing sizzling acids, salty minerals and fine tannin, with a hint of tamarind that seemed to last for well over a minute. At this time, the gutsy ‘16 has a leg up on this vintage, but with time, that opinion might change. (<i>94 points</i>)<br />
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<b>2014 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges Blanc</b> - What a gorgeous intoxicating bouquet on the ‘14 Nuits-Saint-Georges Blanc. It literally kept me coming back to the glass over and over again. On the nose, I found a savory, salty expression of sea air mixed with smoked meats, green olive, and savory spice. Behind it I found the prettiest white floral tones. On the palate, soft textures flooded the senses, as a wave of acid-infused, salty minerals cut through them like razor, revealing white peaches and inner floral tones. The finish was long and spicy, with wild herbs and resonating minerality. What a gorgeous wine. (<i>94 points</i>)<br />
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<b>My Top Scoring Vintage Wine of the Year</b><br />
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I know that finding this wine in the market will be extremely difficult, but if you have the means, then it’s worth the hunt. 1978 is considered one of the greatest vintages of the region, and Giuseppe Rinaldi captured all of that magic in his 1978 Brunate Riserva. I was humbled by this wine, moved, and left in awe. It is now ranked among a small list of wines that have achieved a 99-point score from me.<br />
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<b>1978 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Riserva Speciale delle Brunate</b> - The 1978 was absolutely a once-in-a-lifetime experience. We often hear about how great this vintage is, yet we seldom get to experience it. The nose was dark, rich, layered…intense, showing a mix of brown spice, crushed black fruits, dried strawberries, balsamic tones, savory herbs, dusty soil and hints of sour animal muskiness. On the palate, silky textures were perfectly balanced by refreshing acids and lingering tannin, as red berries and spice tones emerged, along with lifting minerality and masses of dark inner florals. It finished long, balanced, and wonderfully enjoyable, with lingering spice, earthy minerals and resonating dried florals. What a dramatic and perfectly matured bottle of Barolo. I will never forget it. (<i>99 points</i>)<br />
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<b>My Top Scoring Current Release Wine of the Year</b><br />
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It’s one thing to read about a producer and a region and another to actually visit them. My trip to Spain included a hike up the Tumba del Rey Moro vineyard in the Gredos mountains, and I must say that it felt like a pilgrimage of sorts. At 1200-1300 meters above sea level, this centennial vineyard exists in spite of its poor rocky soils and desolate climate, but it produces Garnacha of such remarkable beauty that I was left speechless. I sat with this glass for at least an hour, watching it blossom and evolve. Only a master could capture such immaculate purity in a bottle, and Comando G is apparently up to the task.<br />
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<b>2016 Comando G Tumba del Rey Moro</b> - To walk through and witness the magnitude of the Rey Moro vineyard, and then taste the wine, was such an amazing experience all on its own. Here I found an absolutely stunning, savory and alluring bouquet, showing mountain and brush herbs, cracked pepper, smoke, crushed rocks, and embers, as the wine opened more in the glass, evolving into ripe strawberries fresh on the vine, rose petals, and exotic spices. On the palate, silky textures flooded the senses, laced with peppery spices, liquid florals, fresh strawberries, and saline-infused minerality, with energy in abundance as brisk acids made the mouth water, and youthful tannin slowly mounted. The finish was long, savory and almost salty with its intense minerality, darker fruit than the nose and palate, and lingering savory herbs. What an incredible wine. So unique, so fresh, and so intense. (<i>98 points</i>)<br />
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<b>Best Value Buy of the Year</b><br />
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What’s a top wines list without the value score of the year, and the 2017 Descendientes de José Palacios Pétalos is the winner. This is a remarkably energetic wine that balances between sweet and savory, along with an acid spine that keeps it juicy and fresh. It can pair with a wide variety of foods from seafood to hearty red meats, and it simply keeps you coming back to the glass over and over again. The Pétalos is a field blend that’s based on Mencia, but it also contains a mix of other reds, and even a few indigienous white varieties. It’s off the beaten path, but a path worth traveling. I highly recommend seeking it out.<br />
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<b>2017 Descendientes de José Palacios Bierzo Pétalos</b> - The nose showed a mix of dusty cherry and strawberry fruits, with savory smokiness and admirable richness, as notes of sage and floral undergrowth developed. On the palate, I found soft yet vibrant textures giving way to zesty acids, with spicy red and black berries, violet-tinged inner florals and saturating minerality. The finish was long, spicy, and staining to the senses, with notes of mineral-soaked raspberry and hints of fine tannin. To think that this is their entry-level wine is amazing. (<i>92 points</i>)<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Luca Currado of Vietti, who speaks of passion <br />
for Piedmont through his every word.</td></tr>
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And that’s that. Another year done, and quite an amazing one at that. I want to thank all of the amazing friends, collectors and business partners who opened these amazing wines for me.<br />
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<i><span style="font-size: large;">Eric Guido</span></i><br />
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Article, photos and tasting notes by: <a href="http://www.theviptable.net/biography.html" target="_blank">Eric Guido</a><br />
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Thanks you to <a href="https://www.bowlerwine.com/" target="_blank">David Bowler Wine</a><br />
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Thank you to <a href="http://www.ipowines.com/" target="_blank">IPO Wines</a><br />
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Thank you to <a href="https://www.skurnik.com/" target="_blank">Skurnik Wines</a><br />
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Thank you to <a href="http://www.tiberio.it/websiteeng/" target="_blank">Cristiana Tiberio</a> and <a href="https://www.siptripitaly.com/" target="_blank">Jeff Porter</a><br />
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Thank you to <a href="https://www.vietti.com/en/" target="_blank">Luca Currado</a>, <a href="http://www.gdvajra.it/it/homepage" target="_blank">Giuseppe Vaira</a>, <a href="http://cigliuti.it/" target="_blank">Claudia Cigluti</a> and <a href="http://www.sottimano.it/en/" target="_blank">Andrea Sottimano</a><br />
<br />Eric Guidohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16780641005168603049noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8084232295286066032.post-90245093280323149462019-12-12T15:41:00.000-05:002019-12-12T15:41:08.191-05:00Family, Tradition & Barolo: Video Interview with Giuseppe VairaMy sit-down and chat with Giuseppe Vaira of G.D. Vajra to talk about family, the history of Vajra, life-long traditions, and what the future looks like.<br />
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One of the most impactful moments of my career in wine, was meeting Giuseppe Vaira over ten years ago, at a local shop, as he talked about his love of the region and wine. His spirit, and passion moved me, as well as having a taste of the great wines G.D. Vajra produces. Imagine my excitement over having the opportunity to sit with Giuseppe and ask him all the questions that my heart desired. <br />
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This interview is packed with insights from Giuseppe on the region, a great family history and some Easter eggs regarding what we have to look forward to in the years ahead.<br />
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Enjoy!<br />
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<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ANwpTW-xj-U" width="560"></iframe>Eric Guidohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16780641005168603049noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8084232295286066032.post-71213110357418391832019-12-10T11:08:00.001-05:002019-12-10T11:08:40.840-05:00Walking a Tightrope: 2017 Chateauneuf Du Pape & Southern RhonesFor me, the majority of southern Rhone isn’t about maturing wines until they are “ready” to drink.<br />
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Frankly, with the exception of only a small number of wines, I have seldom witnessed a bottle of Chateauneuf du Pape, Gigiondas, Vacqueyras, Cairanne or Rasteau get significantly better with age. In fact, what I have experienced more often than not are wines that go from being a contrast of dark richness balanced by primary, energetic fruit in their youth, to becoming muddled and flat, showing overripe, unbalanced and just being plain uninteresting in their “maturity”.<br />
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Granted, this doesn’t happen overnight, and in my opinion a solid Rhone wine will gracefully evolve over the course of five to eight years. While a few of them do shut down during that time (these are the ones to put away in the cellar), the majority continue to deliver pleasure throughout this time period. This reminds me of a mistake I’ve made too often, and that’s burying too many bottles in my cellar to catch them in their maturity, only to come back later and find a wine that is past its prime. That’s not to say that there aren’t examples and vintages that mature more gracefully, but I am saying that it’s a crapshoot. For every great mature bottle I’ve experienced, there have easily been five-to-ten others that fell seriously short.<br />
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I feel confident in making this statement because, as a collector, I enjoy mature wines. I love secondary and tertiary aromas and flavors, but let’s just be honest, not all wine should be aged for ten-plus years. It took a lot of time and a lot of over-the-hill bottles, but I’m finally ready to admit that I find much more pleasure in young, primary and energetic Southern Rhone wines, and that’s exactly why I’m finding so much to love about the 2017 vintage.<br />
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Having said that, I still believe that the dark and graceful 2016s and powerful 2015s are technically better vintages (yes, I am a fan of the 2015s). In my opinion, both vintages are also more likely to yield wines that will make the ten-year mark, but I’m still not ready to hide them away like I did with the 2007s (talk about a lot of wines that are now unbalanced and tasting overly ripe). I will continue to enjoy them and go deep on the ones I love, but they will always remain within reach.<br />
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However, I’m getting off topic, because the fact is that the inspiration that caused me to begin typing today is the 2017 vintage and how impressed I’ve been as I’ve tasted these wines. One thing I would like to point out is that the majority of my tastings have been of the “tradition-level” bottles from producers. You know what I mean, right? I am talking about the “entry-level” village bottles--which happen to be the classic wines, typically the producers’ best expressions of house style, using a “traditional” blend of Rhone varieties, and are also your best bet for a Rhone wine to pair well with a meal.<br />
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In my opinion, most of those top-shelf and prestige-level wines are usually the ones that end up coming across as over-the-top and unbalanced in their youth and maturity. They are styled to appeal to the palates of a collector that fits more of the old-school Robert Parker days of Southern Rhone wine criticism. This is a general statement (exceptions I’ve found; Janasse VV, Marcoux VV, St. Cosme Gigondas, Prefert St. Giraud, Clos du Caillou Quartz), but my best advice to anyone seeking to explore the southern Rhone is to start with a producer’s “tradition-level” wine, and if you love it (and only if you love it), you should begin looking to their other wines.<br />
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It’s through this practice that I form the majority of my opinions about a vintage, as well as checking in on a number of Cotes du Rhone wines from my favorite producers. Sometimes, like with the Janasse CdR Les Garrigues, you find a wine that performs on a higher level than expected, which can also save you a lot of money when building your collection.<br />
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So what is it that I love about the 2017s? For starters, the majority of them show a balance of intense deep red and pretty blue fruits, which isn’t something you often find. Imagine crushing a handful of ripe raspberries and blueberries together, then adding in some sweet violet florals, or better yet, that dusty sweet spice of violette candies--that’s the bouquet of a 2017 southern Rhone. Does that sound appealing? Well it is, very much so. Next, it’s the textural experience. The 2017 vintage was hot, remarkably dry and with low yields. This resulted in small and very concentrated berries. Many of the wines show this through their textural richness, which is otherworldly when balanced by a good core of acidity, creating an elegant yet lifted expression. Lastly, it’s how they handle their alcohol. Seldom did I find any hint of heat, even though some of them reached 16% abv.<br />
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However, there is one feature of the 2017 vintage that I must warn you of, and that’s how many of these wines needed time to open up in the glass, versus starting strong from the moment they were poured. It’s because of this that I believe that many people who tasting these in large format or at standing tastings will very easily miss the charms of the ‘17s. These are not your average pop-and-pour Rhones, as each of them came to life only after a few minutes in the glass. Don’t make this mistake, because they deserve your attention, and you will not regret giving it to them.<br />
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On to the Tasting Notes</h3>
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<b>Domaine Isabel Ferrando</b><br />
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The is the passion project of Isabel Ferrando (Domaine St. Prefert). It’s always 100% Grenache from sandy soils in the lieu-dit of Colombis, located on the western edge of the appellation. Isabel has also been experimenting with varying degrees of whole-cluster fermentation.<br />
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<b>Domaine Isabel Ferrando Châteauneuf-du-Pape Colombis 2017</b> - The nose showed rich brown spices, ripe strawberries, lavender and mint, hints of dried orange and tobacco, smoky crushed stone, and lifting florals. On the palate, I found soft textures, guided by brisk acids, spice and minerals, as zesty red fruits swept across the senses, leaving hints of sweet herbs and blue fruits. The finish was long and structured, not showing a hint of its 15% alc, but instead a fresh display of red and blue fruits with sweet florals lingering long. (96 points)<br />
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<b>Roger Sabon</b></h4>
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With most of their vineyards located in the Northeastern section of Chateauneuf du Pape, in sandy soils with a high concentration of red clay and limestone, the wines of Roger Sabon find a balance between elegance and graceful lift. In my opinion, you don’t need to look beyond the Reserve to find the true wine of the house. The Reserve is composed of 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, and 10% Mourvedre, refined for 18 months in a combination of 40hl foudres, 25hl cuves tronconiques 25 and demi-muids.<br />
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<b>Roger Sabon Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve 2017</b> - The nose was dark and brooding at first, yet with time in the glass, it blossomed beautifully to reveal notes of smoky bacon fat, opening further as sweet violet florals and lifting minerality was added, then strawberry, exotic spices, hints of pepper and savory herbs. On the palate, velvety textures flooded the senses, maintaining wonderful freshness through brisk acids, as sweet spice-tinged blueberry, strawberry and saturating minerals fleshed out, leaving hints of fine tannin and inner violet florals. It finished amazingly long and lightly structured, resonating on dried blueberries, hints of black tea, subtle sweet spice and a bump of acidity, which kept things fresh and wonderfully vibrant. This was the first 2017 that I’ve tasted where I believe it outclasses the previous vintage. (95 points)<br />
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<b>Clos Saint Jean</b></h4>
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To be honest, I didn’t expect to enjoy the 2017 VV as much as I did, as Clos Saint Jean is known as being one of the more modern estates in the region. Their source of fruit is undeniable, coming from within the southeastern plateau of La Crau in iron-rich red clays topped with galets. The Vieilles Vignes also sees some fruit from vineyards bordering La Crau, growing in alluvial clay and sand. It’s a classic blend of Grenache (raised in concrete), Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault, Vaccarèse, and Muscardin (all refined in French oak).<br />
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<b>Clos Saint Jean Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes 2017</b> - The nose was rich and intense, showing crushed raspberry and blueberry fruits mixed with white smoke, dried orange citrus, a dusting of holiday spice, and violette candies, as a hint of animal muskiness added a bit of a rustic leaning. On the palate, deep, velvety textures gave way to zesty, spice-infused red and black fruits, as sweet herbs and minerals saturated the senses, with hints of youthful tannin slowly mounting. The finish was long, focused on red and black fruits and liquid violet florals, enlivened by zesty acids yet also structured, as a bitter twang of minerals and citrus offset its ripe fruit profile.<br />
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This is a great rendition of Vieilles Vignes, as I believe the 2017 vintage really played right into their hands. This is another '17 that I believe outperforms its '16 counterpart. While the '16 might be a better wine with age, the '17 is already giving so much and handles its 16% abv. effortlessly. (94+ points)<br />
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<b>Domaine Giraud</b></h4>
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I’ve become quite a fan of Domaine Giraud, and I’m a buyer in almost every vintage. The Domaine itself is located in the southern reaches of Chateauneuf du Pape, yet their vineyards are spread throughout, including the renowned Pignan. The Tradition is composed of 60% Grenache, 35% Syrah and 5% Mourvèdre grown in clay and sandy soils, covered in rounded stones. It’s a classic that drinks well young but also matures beautifully. I also included their CdR Les Sables d'Arène, a 100% varietal Grenache from 65-75-year-old vines planted in a sandy part of Lirac. It’s a real standout in 2017.<br />
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<b>Domaine Giraud Châteauneuf-du-Pape Tradition 2017 </b>- At first it seemed almost over the top, yet it leveled off and gained wonderful complexity, showing a bouquet that really pulls you toward the glass, with a mix of exotic spices blowing off to reveal crushed raspberry, ripe blueberries, violet-tinged florals, garigue, smoke and crushed stone. On the palate, velvety textures enveloped the senses, giving way to ripe blackberry, cherry, sweet floral-infused spices and minerals, as it glided effortlessly on a core of brisk acids. The finish was long and fresh, yet also showing a coating of fine tannin with saturating black fruits and minerals lingering long. If you don't give the 2017 Tradition the attention it deserves, you could almost mistake it for an easygoing and ripe expression of the vintage, yet with just a little time in the glass, it reveals its true self. What a beautiful wine. (94 points)<br />
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<b>Domaine Giraud Côtes du Rhône Vieilles Vignes Les Sables d'Arène 2017</b> - The bouquet of the 2017 Les Sables d'Arene literally rose up out of the glass without a single swirl, as a mix of blackberries, zesty spice, notes of crushed violet candies, and licorice gave way to savory leather, pepper and lifting minerality. On the palate, I found silky textures, with ripe red and blue fruits, yet offset by a mix of acid and spice, which made the tongue curl, as hints of sweet herbs and a twang of citrus flooded the senses. The finish was medium in length and wonderfully fresh for such a large wine, as black fruits lingered along with sweet spices and a hint of tannin. (92 points)<br />
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<b>Domaine de la Janasse</b></h4>
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Janasse is one of the producers of CdP that first convinced me to explore the region deeper, having enjoyed a mature 2001 Chaupin. Granted, they are considered more modern, yet not overpowering. In fact, the wines are a model of elegance. The Tradition-level CdP comes from Northern vineyards, planted mostly in red clay, limestone, galets, and sand, along with some fruit from La Crau. The wine is fermented with a small percentage of stems and is a blend of 65% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre, and 5% Cinsault refined for 12 months in a combination of vat and 20% in new barrels. I also included the CdR Les Garrigues, a wine I love, produced from century-old Grenache, planted in red clay pebbly soil in the northwest of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and refined only in tank.<br />
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<b>Domaine de la Janasse Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2017 </b>- The bouquet was seductive, with its ripe blue and black berries giving way to baked plum, with a dusting of crushed violette candies, white smoke, minerals, and with time, hints of undergrowth. On the palate, silky textures washed across the senses with a mix of raspberry and blueberry tones, guided by cool-toned acids adding vibrancy, as sweet spice and purple florals resonated throughout. The finish was medium in length, showing a mix of violet florals, blackberry, spice and a twang of vibrant acids. This is a very pretty expression of the vintage, so easy to like, and with a gentle nature. (91 points)<br />
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<b>Domaine de la Janasse Côtes du Rhône Les Garrigues 2017</b> - The nose was remarkably fresh, showing bright strawberry and crushed blueberries laced with violet florals, smoke, a dusting of sweet spice, hints of citrus and wet stone. On the palate, I found silky textures, lifted through brisk acids, which also created stunning vibrancy throughout, as ripe red fruits flooded across the senses with spicy intensity, followed by saturating minerals and purple-tinged inner florals. The finish was long with a twang of zesty spice and acids lingering, as red and blue fruits slowly faded to reveal a layer of fine tannin across the senses. I was amazed by the purity and refreshing qualities of this vintage of Les Garrigues. Also of note is how I’ve found this to slightly outperform the house’s Chateauneuf du Pape Tradition two vintages in a row now. (94 points)<br />
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<b>Domaine de Marcoux</b></h4>
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The Pinot of the Southern Rhone? I can’t argue; the wines of Marcoux have a silky grace and red fruit to them that’s gorgeous. The Tradition comes from a mix of different vineyards from around the village in various soils of red clay, galets, sand, gravel, clay limestone, and marls. It’s composed of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, and Cinsault, refined eighteen months in 90% concrete and 10% neutral wood. It’s a truly gorgeous and balanced expression worth seeking out, but also one of the pricier tradition-level wines.<br />
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<b>Domaine de Marcoux Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2017</b> - The nose showed a zesty expression of crushed raspberry, blueberry, both sweet and savory spice, and lifting violet florals, complicated by dusty minerality and smoke. On the palate, the softest, most enveloping textures imaginable were contrasted by cool-toned red fruits and brisk acids, as a staining of liquid florals and minerals coated the senses, leaving saturating fine tannin in their wake. The finish was long yet fresh, as hints of mineral-infused red berries, spices, and violet inner florals slowly faded amidst grippy young tannins. The '17 Domaine de Marcoux Châteauneuf-du-Pape seemed to close in on itself the longer in spent in the glass, which leads me to believe that the best is still yet to come. Simply gorgeous. (93 points)<br />
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<b>Domaine Saint Prefert</b></h4>
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I’m not sure how much higher Isabel Ferrando can raise the bar at this historic property in the South of Châteauneuf du Pape. In 2017, the Tradition at this estate was composed of 85% Grenache, 5% Syrah, 5% Mourvèdre and 5% Cinsault, refined for 15 months in tank concrete. It’s a joyful expression of the region and varietals.<br />
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<b>Domaine Saint Préfert Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2017</b> - The '17 Saint Préfert Châteauneuf-du-Pape has evolved since my last taste a few months ago. Here I found a bright, spicy blend of crushed raspberries and strawberries, with sweet herbal lift, smoke, violette pastille, and fresh red florals. On the palate, silky textures were energized by brisk acids, giving way to ripe red fruits, exotic spice, and liquid sweet florals, which coated the senses, leaving minerals and youthful tannin behind. The finish was long, displaying palate-staining red fruits, which dried slightly due to the wine’s hidden structure, as inner florals and spice lingered long. This is beautiful juice, and at only 13.5% abv--for CdP, amazing! (93 points)<br />
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Domaine Brusset</h4>
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The one Gigondas I was able to get my hands on in time for this article was the ‘17 Domaine Brusset Les Hauts de Montmirail. The Domaine is located at the foot of the Dentelles de Montmirail, where terraces carry their vines into the limestone soils of these mountain slopes. Les Hauts is composed of Grenache, Mourvedre and Syrah, which are crushed and fermented separately before being blended and refined in oak, 50% of which is new. If you’re looking for a 2017 to bury in the cellar, this is certainly a good candidate.<br />
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<b>Domaine Brusset Gigondas Les Hauts de Montmirail 2017</b> - The nose was dark and rich, displaying crushed plums and blackberries, laced with violet pastile, smoky minerals, hints of air-dried meats, white pepper, and a dusting of sweet and savory spices. On the palate, velvety textures coated the senses, as an intense wave of tart black fruits, minerals, and brisk acidity cut through with laser-like focus, leaving fine tannin in their wake. Notes of savory spice, Alpine herbs, and smoked meats gave way to a long finish, with staying tannic clout, resonating on dried blueberries, blackberries, dark chocolate, and pepper. This is a serious bottle of Gigondas that should be amazing with another three to five years in the cellar. (92 points)Eric Guidohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16780641005168603049noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8084232295286066032.post-19501941921428008162019-11-18T11:40:00.002-05:002019-11-18T11:40:42.555-05:00Exposing The Regal Terroir of SerraboellaSitting down with Claudia Cigliuti of Cigliuti Barbaresco, talking about the past, present and future of the region and her family. They are pioneers and farms at the core, making great Barbaresco, just happens to be a very happy result. Enjoy!<br />
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If you would like to learn more, check out <a href="https://www.morrellwine.com/blog/Exposing-The-Regal-Terroir-of-Serraboella-g85035378x" target="_blank"><b>The Cellar Table Blog</b></a> for a full write up of the producer and their wines.<br />
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<br />Eric Guidohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16780641005168603049noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8084232295286066032.post-2815084557382873282019-03-01T15:00:00.000-05:002020-08-09T15:02:11.662-04:00Exploring The New Frontiers of Spain<h2 style="text-align: left;">Bitten by the Spanish Wine Bug at The V.I.P. Table</h2><p>It all started with Rajat Parr’s newest book, a real page-turner I must add, The Sommelier's Atlas of Taste. However, what captivated me most was the very final chapter on Spain. I’ve read more books about Italy, France, and Germany than I can recount. However, what I’ve had very little exposure to was a well-written and insightful piece on Spain, and that is exactly what the final chapter of Rajat’s book spoke about. The best part was that this section didn’t speak about the usual suspects. Instead, Rajat went on to talk about what was exciting him, which was the new generation of winemakers, some of whom were working in the well-known regions of Spain, but others were exploring new frontiers, terroir, and making the best use of often-forgotten vineyards.</p><p><br /></p><p>As I’ve come to realize, as soon as someone begins to talk to me about biodynamic winemaking, ancient vines mixed with ancient techniques, forgotten landscapes and unique grape varieties, my ears perk up like a starving man hearing the dinner bell.</p><p><br /></p><p>I jumped in feet first. Some of these producers I had already heard of, such as Dominio del Aguila and Nin Ortiz, but others were completely new to me, and I decided it was time to seek them out. </p><p><br /></p><p>What I found only increased my desire to explore and learn more. Each and every example provided me with an entirely new array of aromas, tastes and sensations, things that I had never expected from a glass of wine, such as those from Daniel Gomez Jimenez Landi, where the bouquet of each wine was like touring through a selection of the most carefully curated rose gardens, or a florist shop full of sweet flowers and spices. Each expression was remarkably different from region to region, producer to producer and grape to grape, yet all of them so inviting, seductive and refined.</p><p><br /></p><p>Refined is the most important part I must add, because if there a signature for Spanish wine in my opinion, it’s always been about brute power, with only a few producers being able to also obtain refinement. However, this was a common theme across the range. In some cases, the wines were incredibly powerful, but also remarkably refined. In other cases, they sported only 12.5% alcohol, yet had the depth and intensity of a well-muscled stallion. It became hard to understand how each of them could be so diverse, interesting and off of my radar for so long.</p><p><br /></p><p>That’s when I decided to go deeper, and I purchased The New Vignerons, by Luis Gutiérrez. If you don’t know the name, then all you need do is look at the shelf-talkers in the Spanish wine section of any reputable wine store. Luis heads up the Spanish wine reviews at The Wine Advocate, as well as a number of related regions, and he’s also one of the most trusted and knowledgeable sources on Spanish wine that you could ever hope to find. The book was amazing, not focusing on the typical data or the same old stories we’ve heard over and over. Instead, Luis focused on the people, what led them to wine, how they worked, struggled and ultimately the fruit of their labor.</p><p><br /></p><p>Apparently, Luis had been keen to the swell of new talent and interesting projects around Spain (as we would expect he would be), and he had been following, tasting and trying to get the word out for quite some time. Granted, in most cases these are mostly small production wines, produced from tiny parcels of abandoned or forgotten vineyards. One theme that seemed to follow throughout most of the winemakers I had been introduced to was that they searched for and slowly acquired these parcels. Sometimes they would be located in what appeared to be impossible locations to farm, or were tended to by old farmers who continued to keep them up out of respect for tradition and family.</p><p><br /></p><p>I think back to my last visit to Spain, and what struck me more than anything else about the country was the amount of old dilapidated and abandoned farmhouses, homes, and wonders of architecture that dotted the countryside. It added flavor to the landscape, as these sights are often beautiful despite the cold reality. That reality being that poverty or the mass exodus of families from rural areas, in search of making a living, had created these glorious ruins. </p><p><br /></p><p>Those are the images that went through my mind as I read through Luis’s book, when he talked about the slow acquisition of vineyards by Descendientes de José Palacios, around the village of Corullon, a village with a current estimated population of 937 inhabitants. Ricardo Perez of Descendientes had to prove to the people of Corullon that he would take proper care and put their vineyards to good use. Today, they are more than happy to be a part of his vision, a man who literally lives among his biodynamically farmed vines.</p><p><br /></p><p>At this point I was truly hooked. These new frontiers of Spain were providing me with the whole package, a unique and diverse set of wines from rugged, forgotten terrain, made by true passion-driven artisans, most often through 100% natural winemaking techniques. Call it organic or biodynamic, but in the end these are people who want to put the best, most natural product into the bottle. They want to communicate terroir. I was in a beautiful haze of new experiences, and the best part is that the experience has no end in sight, and there are still so many new producers to explore.</p><p><br /></p><p>I find myself with a growing collection of Spanish wine in my cellar, consisting of names that many people have never heard of. I also find myself longing to return to Spain so that I can see these locations, meet these people and taste new vintages for myself.</p><p><br /></p><p>So yes, I have officially been bitten by the Spanish wine bug, and I don’t think there’s any going back. The best I can do now is to share some of my findings with you, because in the end, anyone who’s made it this far through today’s blog truly deserves to know what’s out there.</p><p><br /></p><p>Daniel Gomez Jimenez Landi</p><p><br /></p><p>So I’m starting with one of the most interesting projects that I’ve had the fortune of stumbling upon, Daniel Gomez Jimenez Landi. Daniel is a partner of another project that’s turned my head, yet is even more limited: Comando G. The best part about these wines is that the word is already out about Comando G, and allocations disappear quickly. However, very few people realize that these vineyards are managed, the grapes vinified and the wine finished, by the exact same team. They aren’t cheap, but if you’re looking to better understand what the region of Gredos is capable of, then this is the best way to get informed. What’s more, I remember when first starting to explore this range that I read that the main inspiration for these wines was Chateau Rayas, and I will say--they have nailed it. This is a Spanish Garnacha like you have never tasted before and worthy of the tariff. </p><p><br /></p><p>2015 Daniel Gómez Jiménez Landi Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León Las Iruelas El Tiemblo - The '15 Las Iruelas pulled me in with its gorgeous and beguiling bouquet of dried flowers, exotic spices, stone dust, moist undergrowth, licorice, hints of pepper and spicy black fruits. On the palate, I found soft yet lifted textures with a sensation of dry fruit and floral extract that immediately coated the senses in a violet-infused menagerie of wild berry, raspberry and blueberry fruits, with savory minerals, saturating spice and a cheek-puckering tug of acidity; all while remaining warm, savory, seductively textural and truly unique. The finish was long... and I mean long... spicy, and with a note of fine tannin. (95 points)</p><p><br /></p><p>2016 Daniel Gómez Jiménez Landi Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León Las Iruelas El Tiemblo - The nose opened with a mix of savory wild herbs and spicy floral tones, as notes of white pepper, crushed stone, animal musk, dried orange, and bright strawberry developed in the glass. On the palate, I found enveloping textures like pure silk, which were quickly offset by layers of wild red berry, saturating minerals, savory smokiness, masses of inner red florals and a tart twang of acidity. The finish was long, grippy, mineral-laden and promising, as tart wild berry lingered among exotic spices. A note of hard red candies could still be recognized on the palate over a full minute later. There’s a wild and exotic persona here, deserving of a good deal of time to truly absorb what is going on in the glass. (95 points)</p><p><br /></p><p>2016 Daniel Gómez Jiménez Landi Vino de la Tierra de Castilla El Reventón RV - The nose was slightly restrained yet very, very pretty, showing fresh, ripe strawberries off the vine, moist earth, dusty sweet spices, a mix of exotic florals, stone dust, and hints of white pepper. On the palate, I found silky-soft textures, with an almost creamy feel, delivering a sweet yet peppery display of ripe yet also savory cherry, raspberry sauce, confectionary spices, minerals and wonderfully balancing acidity. The finish was long yet subtle, with pretty red fruits, red licorice, spice, and masses of tactile inner florals, as I felt a warming yet pleasing sensation of heat going down. What a crazy wine, and it’s so easy to like already. (96 points)</p><p><br /></p><p>2016 Daniel Gómez Jiménez Landi Vino de la Tierra de Castilla El Reventón RVL - The nose was darker, moodier as well, then the RV, displaying peppery-spiced, black cherry, strawberry, dusty dried florals, and savory herbs. On the palate, I found a finessed expression with silky textures lifted by cool-toned acids, as the RVL coasted effortlessly across the senses with pretty strawberry and cherry tones, followed by filigree sweet spices, saturating minerals and inner florals. It was feminine and caressing, as the finish evolved more toward mounting structure than fruit, with a twang of zesty spices, lingering acids and minerals. The RVL really comes to life about an hour or two after opening, and it hints at serious cellar potential. (94 points)</p><p><br /></p><p>Comando G</p><p><br /></p><p>The word is out on Comando G, and all we can do now is hope to grab an allocation. I’ve had the pleasure of tasting these with the distributor over the last few years, yet there is something about the last two vintages that have totally made me a believer. The 2015s and 2016s show a whole new level that Garnacha can reach on the high altitude vineyards of Sierra de Gredos. The inspiration behind these wines comes from Daniel Landi and Fernando Garcia, who are entirely responsible for putting the region on the map. Having tasted the wines of Landi alone, I would say that Comando G adds a dark, animal nature to the exotic florals and spice. They are inspiring to say the least.</p><p><br /></p><p>2015 Comando G Las Umbrias Las Rozas de Puerto Real - What an incredible bouquet on the 2015 Las Umbrias. I would think I was visiting a mix of a florist shop and confectionary boutique before thinking that I was nosing a wine. A gorgeous mix of florals, both fresh and dried, were joined together with exotic spices (clove, cinnamon, ginger... on and on), a sweet dusting of powdered sugar, crushed strawberry, green olive and saline minerality. On the palate, I found a wonderfully fresh, silky expression, as it glided effortlessly across the senses, showing notes of ripe strawberry, with floral and mineral hints, as fine tannin and brisk acid tugged slightly and pretty inner florals developed. The finish was long, showing the first hint of promising structure, along with dried cherries, clove and sweet lingering florals. Wow. (96 points)</p><p><br /></p><p>Familia Nin-Ortiz </p><p><br /></p><p>I’ve sung the praises of Ester Nin in the past, and so I won’t go too deep here. However, what Nin Ortiz has accomplished in Priorat is nothing short of remarkable. Today they spend much of their time teaching biodynamics and vineyard management to producers throughout the region. They have, without a doubt, reinvented the region of Priorat. If you thought it was all about power, oak influence and overripe wines, then it’s time to check out Nin Ortiz. They will bring you back to Priorat. </p><p><br /></p><p>2016 Familia Nin-Ortiz Priorat Planetes de Nin - Amfora - Sitting with the 2016 Amfora really put this wine into perspective. The bouquet was a dark and savory mix of crushed stone and smoke, with brown spices, blackberry, raspberry, hints of animal musk, savory herbs and floral undergrowth. On the palate, I found soft textures with medium-weight, offset by zesty acidity and spice, displaying dried cherry, herbs, saturating minerality and slow mounting tannins. The finish was medium-long and incredibly fresh, resonating on tart red fruits and spice, with lingering acids that made the mouth water. (93 points)</p><p><br /></p><p>2015 Familia Nin-Ortiz Garnacha Priorat Nit de Nin Coma D'en Romeu - So maybe I don't get it, but this comes off to me as a very, very good, yet not the 98-point experience that The Wine Advocate has attached to it. The nose was dark and intense yet fresh, showing a mix of crushed blackberry, black cherry and plum, with crushed stone, hints of provencal herbs, smoke and exotic spice. On the palate, I found silky textures, showing violet-floral infused black fruits, saturated with saline-minerals and spice with zesty acids adding a mouthwatering contrast. The finish was long, as youthful tannin tugged at the senses and crunchy, mineral-encased black fruits slowly tapered off. (94 points)</p><p><br /></p><p>Descendientes de José Palacios</p><p><br /></p><p>Now we’re walking off the beaten path. Descendientes is probably the most exciting project in Spain today (maybe tying Comando G). It all started with Alvaro Palacios, a name you should know if you’ve ever delved into the top wines of Priorat. The fact is that Alvaro was in no small part responsible for the region’s rise to fame. He spent years in the region, seeking out the perfect vineyard locations to create his dream wine, before ultimately setting to work. The result was the creation of L'Ermita and Finca Dofi--to this day, two of the most iconic wines of the region.</p><p><br /></p><p>However, during the time that he spent surveying vineyards and seeking that perfect location, there was another region that he fell in love with, even though Priorat won out in the end, and that was Bierzo. It was the combination of steep hillside vineyards, complex schist-dominated soils, and ancient Mencia vines that intrigued him, but the opportunity had been missed until his nephew, Ricardo Perez, took interest. Ricardo had been cutting his teeth in Bordeaux, at the likes of Chateau Margaux, when his uncle’s desire to explore Bierzo piqued his interests. Together, they formed Descendientes de J. Palacios and began to buy up the best parcels they could find around the town of Corullon.</p><p><br /></p><p>Today, Descendientes de J. Palacios creates a mix of single-vineyard expressions that garner stratospheric scores from the press, but also demand Stratospheric prices. Yet, this isn’t where the savvy collector should focus. In my opinion, it’s the Villa de Corullon that communicates the terroir of the region mixed with the house style. It’s essentially a village-level wine, sourced from old Mencia and Palomino vines from around the town of Corullon, and vinified in a similar fashion to the single-vineyard expressions that win critics’ hearts. Also of serious note is the Petalos, their “entry” level wine that punches well above its price point.</p><p><br /></p><p>2016 Descendientes de José Palacios Bierzo Pétalos - The nose showed a mix of dusty cherry and strawberry fruits, with savory smokiness and admirable richness, as notes of sage and floral undergrowth developed. On the palate, I found soft yet vibrant textures giving way to zesty acids, with spicy red and black berries, violot-tinged inner florals and saturating minerality. The finish was long, spicy, and staining to the senses, with notes of mineral-soaked raspberry and hints of fine tannin. To think that this is their entry-level wine is amazing. (92 points)</p><p><br /></p><p>2016 Descendientes de José Palacios Bierzo Villa de Corullon - The nose was spicy and pretty, opening more with time in the glass, displaying mineral-infused raspberry, strawberry, crushed violets, lavender, a dusting of clove, moist dark soil tones, and hints of animal musk. On the palate, I found creamy, silky textures which seemed to glide effortlessly across the senses, leaving pure red and hints of blueberry fruit, saline-minerals, a mix of inner rose and lingering violet florals. The finish was medium in length with a twang of zesty acidity, tart red fruits, and a coating of savory minerals. This was such an enjoyable experience, with its lively persona mixed with depths of aromatic complexity, purity and persistence. (93 points)</p><p><br /></p><p>Dominio del Águila</p><p><br /></p><p>This is another project that I’ve been getting excited about for a while. The funny part is that I would hear their names spoken by some of my most trusted contemporaries, always in hushed tones. The comments would also be similar: “Have you heard about Dominio del Aguila?”, “Do you think they are really the next big thing from the Ribera del Duero?” I believe that we are firmly at the point where the latter can be answered with a resolute “YES”. </p><p><br /></p><p>My detailed piece on this exciting projected can be found at “Exposing Terroirs of Ribera del Duero,” but I will go into some small detail here to get your juices going.</p><p><br /></p><p>Jorge Monzon of Domino del Aguila has been exposing the unique terroir and native varieties of Ribera del Duero for the last decade, while working for some of the most prestigious properties in the area. Let’s keep in mind that Tempranillo is as closely tied to the Ribera as any variety can be to a historical region. In fact, a wine can not be included in the Ribera del Duero designation without being at least 75% Tempranillo. The problem is that much of the recent plantings are using high-production clones, plus adding more Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot in the place of old-vine, less productive, Tempranillo.</p><p><br /></p><p>These are vineyards from another time, when different varieties were interplanted to create field blends. When these vines were first planted, the wines they created may have been simple, easy-drinking, farmers’ wines. However, today these ancient vines are 80-150 years old!!! What’s more, they are planted in locations that may not be ideal for modern-day farming, but perfect for the artisan who works by hand.</p><p><br /></p><p>Jorge identified these locations and slowly acquired them over the course of ten years while working for Arzuaga-Navarro. Throughout that time, he nursed the vines and soils back to health using organic principles, while selling his production to the who’s who of the region. Jorge was basically biding his time to be able to launch Dominio del Aguila in 2010, when he was confident in the fruit he was producing and how to properly vinify them into the style of wine he envisioned.</p><p><br /></p><p>Today, eight years later, these are officially the most exciting wines being made in Ribera del Duero.</p><p><br /></p><p>2014 Dominio del Águila Clarete Pícaro del Águila - The nose was remarkably pretty, showing fresh crushed strawberries, with hints of dusty earth, sweet herbs and minerals. On the palate, I found soft textures with pure red fruits, a stunning mix of acid and minerals with hints of citrus. The finish was spicy and medium-long finish with lasting minerality. (91 points)</p><p><br /></p><p>2010 Dominio del Águila Ribera del Duero Reserva - Here, I found a seductive bouquet, mixing sweet, savory and floral, with a burst of roses and violets giving way to a combination of earthy minerals and animal musks, with crushed strawberry, sweet spice, white pepper and a hint of vanilla. On the palate, silky textures gave way to depths of dark red and blue fruits, plums, sweet herbs, and tobacco, along with zesty minerals and acids to balance, as fine tannin slowly creeped in. The finish was long, lifted and structured, showing citrus-tinged red berries, with exotic spiciness, sweet florals and lingering fine tannin. Where is this wine going? I’m not sure, but I’m very excited to find out. (94 points)</p><p><br /></p><p>2014 Dominio del Águila Viñas Viejas Blanco - The nose was incredibly spicy, with a burst of hot green peppers and curry leaf up front, giving way to wild herbs, crushed stone, lemon rind, and hints of fresh green apples. On the palate, I found silky, deep textures with minerality up front, as young pit fruits and wet stone came forward, complemented by brisk acidity adding verve and lift from the mid-palate through the finale. The finish was long with saturating minerals, wet stone, wild flowers and spice. Wow. (95 points)</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>2014 Dominio del Águila Ribera del Duero Gran Reserva Penas Aladas - The nose was dark and intense, showing animal musk, crushed stone, and dark soil tones backed by notes of herbal-infused blackberry, blueberry, wild flowers, and hints of tangerine. On the palate, I found silky, creamy textures with zesty spiced red fruits, lavender, inner herbal tones, saline-minerality and inner soil tones. It was as if the nose transposed perfectly to the palate. The finish was long, showing saturating black cherry and lasting minerality with a coating of fine tannin. I was amazed by how intense and layered, yet fresh the ‘13 Gran Reserva was. (96 points)</p><p><br /></p><p>Suertes del Marques</p><p><br /></p><p>Now it’s time to go completely off the beaten path, to a selection of wines that are truly meant for the explorer, the taster looking for an almost intellectual experience, and a portfolio of wines that are so unique that it may set the average wine drinker aback.</p><p><br /></p><p>The subtropical climate in the Canary Islands, a Spanish archipelago off the coast of northwestern Africa, is something you don’t often find in a wine-producing region. However, that’s exactly why these wines are so unique. They are produced using a mix of lesser-known varieties, from vines that grow along sheer cliffs, with vines that are like tentacles, snaking 30 to 40 feet in each direction. No average winemaker would tell you that this mix should work for creating a create wine, yet it does, and the results are quite special.</p><p><br /></p><p>The two wines listed below are both what I would call, “experience wines”. The Los Pasitos hosts a total of only 12.5% alcohol, yet it shows a depth and elegance that I would never expect, coupled with a wild bouquet that seems like something you would expect to find in a well-curated garden before a glass. It’s produced from 100% ungrafted Baboso Negro; ungrafted, because Phylloxera never made it to the Canary Islands. Meanwhile, the El Ciruelo, comes from old-vine (90 years old) Listán Negro. Topping out at a whopping 13% alcohol, it is showing a structure that may well make my current score look low over time. Keep in mind that I don’t have a baseline for wines as unique as these. They both come from volcanic soils, farmed and produced through a hands off approach, with minimal racking and sulfur. Like I said, these are “experience wines.”</p><p><br /></p><p>Suertes del Marqués “Los Pasitos" 2016 - The Los Pasitos had a gorgeous perfume that wafted up from the glass with an array of spicy florals, roses and wild herbs, backed by pepper, crushed stone, sheer black rock, moist soil and hints of crushed wild berries. On the palate, I found soft textures with energizing acidity that carried it effortlessly across the senses, leaving tart wild berry fruits, offsetting peppery spices and inner floral tones. The finish was medium-long on fruit, but lasted for minutes with spices, wild herbs, pepper and minerals. (94 points)</p><p><br /></p><p>Suertes del Marqués “El Ciruelo” 2016 - El Ciruelo seemed to pull me into the glass, at first coy and withdrawn, but the closer I came to it, the more it blossomed, showing dusty minerals, smoke and crushed stone up front, giving way to dried flowers, bright strawberry and hints of violets. On the palate, I found finesse, lifted textures with pure red berry fruits, wrapped in savory minerals, with spicy inner florals, hints of pepper and a slight tug of tannin. It was so pure and almost juicy, yet with a tart twang that made it tactile and memorable, as the El Ciruelo finished clean, peppery and with a lasting tug of young tannin. (92 points)</p>Eric Guidohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16780641005168603049noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8084232295286066032.post-18016865721852004682019-02-01T15:09:00.000-05:002020-08-09T15:11:43.950-04:00The Balance of the Blend<h2 style="text-align: left;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-5ed3a59c-7fff-e730-d5cc-cbc63926285c"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">What It Takes to Make the Vietti Barolo Castiglione</span></span></h2><p>What does it take for a producer of Barolo to decide that it’s more important to create one great wine to please the majority of collectors, at a tremendous price, versus creating five single-vineyard Cru Barolo that they could charge 3-4 times as much for and easily sell?</p><p><br /></p><p>Passion? Tradition? Responsibility? Love for the region and for their family? I’m of the opinion that when it comes to Luca Currado of the Vietti winery, each of these reasons come into play.</p><p><br /></p><p>As Luca talks about Barolo, Piedmont and all that has come before him in this region, he speaks with such love, excitement and reverence, that it becomes easy to understand why the Vietti Barolo Castiglione continues to be produced. To this day, it is one of the greatest examples of traditional Barolo, as well as being priced remarkably fair and able to stand proud next to many of the top wines of the region. It’s because of this that I feel compelled to be an advocate of both the wine and the winery, to make sure that people know just how much goes into producing it. However, there’s another reason as well, and that reason is that I also feel it’s my duty to make sure that Barolo lovers really do understand the benefit of having the Barolo Castiglione in their own cellars.</p><p><br /></p><p>The first thing to understand is that Luca is determined to make Vietti’s flagship wine the best Barolo that he can in every vintage. And don’t fool yourself. The flagship of this house is not the multiple 100-point-scoring Ravera, the classic Rocche with its amazingly long track record, the Lazzarito from one of the region’s “hottest” locals, or the Brunate, with its famous location and name. No, the flagship at Vietti is the Castiglione.</p><p><br /></p><p>In order to make Castiglione the best that it can be, Luca looks to a collection of single vineyards, He could easily vinify and bottle each of these on their own, however, he chooses to instead blend into one Barolo, the Castiglione. This doesn’t mean that all of the fruit is picked and added to massive tanks and barrels, like many other producers would do. Instead, Luca chooses to raise the fruit from each of these parcels like it would one day be a single-vineyard bottling of Barolo. Each one receives unique care and upbringing through the aging process. It is only after the refinement in large neutral barrels that Vietti begins the blending process and completes the Castiglione.</p><p><br /></p><p>Recently, I was granted an amazing opportunity to taste through the different vineyards that will produce the 2016 Barolo Castiglione--hold onto your seats, because 2016 is going to blow your minds.</p><p><br /></p><p>The 2016 Barolo Vintage</p><p><br /></p><p>Just to provide a bit of background on the year, as I’ve been tasting 2016s from barrel now for the past two years, it’s a vintage that may outperform the best of the last three decades. The vintage doesn’t require a producer to express their own excitement over it as you taste, because from the moment you put your nose to the glass, or take that first sip, the importance of 2016 becomes apparent. </p><p><br /></p><p>The 2016 vintage was one of the longest growing seasons on record, with an early start in the late winter due to drier and warmer conditions than usual. Budbreak took place in early March, yet as the season continued, it became cooler that usual, hence slowing down the maturation. Summer brought long dry days with moderate temperatures, which was followed by a mild and dry September. The result was that picking for Barolo began late on October 5th (in Brunate) and ended on the 25th in Ravera. The fruit was healthy and abundant with ripe tannins and balanced acidities. As for Luca Currado, he believes it may be the greatest collection of wines he’s ever produced, including the Castiglione.</p><p><br /></p><p>Back to the Castiglione</p><p><br /></p><p>As I’ve mentioned, the Castiglione is a traditional blend of vineyards. In 2016, those vineyards included Ravera (Novello), Teodoro (Serralunga), Scaronne (Castiglione), Rocchettevino (La Morra), Bricco Fiasco (Castiglione), and a mix (due to the small size of the parcels) of Mosconi and Le Coste (Monforte). In each year, Luca will use as much or as little of these barrels that’s necessary to create the perfect blend of the Barolo Castiglione.</p><p><br /></p><p>However, before today, I was never been able to taste each of these wines separately, all while hearing Luca’s comments on each of them. Of course, with Ravera, I’ve had the chance to taste this when barrel-tasting with Luca. Keep in mind that Vietti is able to fill three large, neutral botti with their production from Ravera; it’s one of their largest holdings. From those three barrels, only one makes the cut for the single-vineyard, while the rest can go on to be added to the Castiglione. While visiting with Luca in Piedmont, I’ve been able to taste from all three of those barrels, and I can’t tell you how hard it must be for the Vietti winery to decide which one will be the “Cru” and which will go into the blend, because they are all sublime. </p><p><br /></p><p>That said, one of the most eye-opening bottles on this day came from a little-known vineyard in Serralunga, named Teodoro. It was the vibrancy of the fruit, remarkably pretty florals and exotic nature of the wine that first caught my attention. However, what sealed the deal was Luca’s explanation of how the wine is made. Apparently, Teodoro is one of the few vineyards in Barolo that produces fruit that benefits from whole-cluster fermentation. This is a practice that isn’t often used in the region, simply because the character of the grape and terroir doesn’t lend well to it. Most of us know that one of the region’s most highly regarded wines today (Burlotto Monvigliero) is made with whole-clusters. However, that location, with its sandy soils and cool climate, is a perfect example of one terroir that does benefit from it. Apparently, so does Teodoro, and since Luca is always willing to experiment, he found the perfect mix by leaving 60% of the stems intact. What’s more, we were able to taste two different bottlings of Teodoro, one made “traditionally” and one left in barrel for only 18 months, which is a much older tradition from the early 20th century. Comparing these two wines was fascinating.</p><p><br /></p><p>Granted, this is just the tip of the iceberg, as the completed 2016 Castiglione is not assembled and ready to taste, but I can tell you that I’d be happy with a Barolo made from any one of the components we tasted. That said, with the blending prowess of Luca Currado to make the final decisions, I’m extremely excited to see what the end result will be.</p><p><br /></p><p>The Blend Component Tasting</p><p><br /></p><p>All wines were barrel samples that had been bottled for this event. Also, my opinions of what each component lends to the blend are my own, and I’m sure Luca has his own thoughts on the matter.</p><p><br /></p><p>L35 Ravera di Novello - This is a wine that I have tasted from barrel and loved each time. Here I found a dark and exotic expression, showing wildberry fruit with notes of purple florals, crushed stone minerality and sweet spice. On the palate, it was smooth, showing pure red berry fruit in a lifted expression with saline-minerals, showing a tactile mix of acid and tannin that saturated the senses all the way through its dark fruit finish, leaving hints of balsamic spice. I see this as the core of the blend, and the soul. (94-96 points)</p><p><br /></p><p>L44 Teodoro (Serralunga) - The 2016 Teodoro was absolutely gorgeous on the nose, with an array of wild red berries, rosy florals, earth, and hints of savory herbs, as the wine continued to open in the glass, becoming more Burgundian, lifted and refined. On the palate, I found a soft expression, with tantalizing acidity paving the way for fresh red fruits, inner florals and grippy tannins. The finish was medium in length, resonating on red fruits and florals. The Teodoro is a relatively recent acquisition, and likely what has given the Castiglione its recent boost of aromatic complexity. (92-94 points)</p><p><br /></p><p>L20 Scarrone (Castiglione) - This is another wine that I’ve tasted in the past, and as before, one I wish that Luca would consider bottling one day on its own. The nose was remarkably pretty, bursting with an intense expression of red fruits. Raspberry, strawberry and cranberry seemed to all come together as a sweet dusting of spice, minerals and red florals filled the senses. On the palate, I found silky textures, which were offset by saturating red berry and sweet spices, kept in check by a wash of grippy young tannin, which lasted throughout the long finish. I can only imagine what this might taste like in twenty years, and I doubt I will ever find out. That said, the Castiglione would miss the addition of Scaronne, as I see this as the spice in the blend. (93-95 points)</p><p><br /></p><p>L41 Rocchettevino (La Morra) - Here I found a floral expression with rosy red berry fruit complemented by dusty sweet spice, and minerality, creating an exotic and feminine expression. On the palate, soft, enveloping textures gave way to seductive dark, ripe red fruits with a grounding wash of brisk acidity to balance them out beautifully. Hints of tannin emerged on the long, dark fruit finish, yet all in all, this is a wine of texture and very easy to like. I think it goes without saying that the Rocchettevino levels out the structure, giving Castiglione its silky presence on the palate. (91-94 points)</p><p><br /></p><p>L39 Mosconi and Le Coste (Monforte) - The nose was dark and woodsy, showing a mix of sweet herbal and floral tones, offset by woodland berries and hints of moist earth. On the palate, I found silky textures, yet restrained by a web of complex tannin with mineral underpinnings, as dark red fruits fought to make an appearance. The finish was medium in length, showing the wine’s power and drying its dark red fruits. This is certainly the backbone of Castiglione, and it is sure to lend the structure necessary to mature. (90-93 points)</p><p><br /></p><p>L43 Bricco Fiasco (Castiglione) - The nose was dark and rich, with a mix of brown spices, crushed red berries, and earthy minerality, yet with time, it became prettier, more floral and gained a note of sweet spice. On the palate, I found a feminine expression, with silky, lifted textures giving way to mineral-encased, crunchy black fruits, echos of dark florals and spice. The finish was long, as fine tannin mounted, slowly drying the wine’s fruit and leaving an expression of power. I find this to be the iron fist that comfortably fits into the Castiglione’s velvet glove. Gorgeous. (93-95 points)</p><p><br /></p><p>On a side note, and a bit of a treat</p><p><br /></p><p>As Luca had explained, the Teodoro vineyard is one of the few locations within Barolo where the harvested Nebbiolo benefits from whole-cluster fermentation. He also went on the explain that what we all consider traditional only depends on how far back into history that we are looking, and that he is often looking further back to consider everything that came before. Thinking along these lines, Luca looked to a time before the first World War, a time when your average Barolo producer would only have one large barrel in their cellar, which was used to collect all of their fruit, ferment it, and age it. What this meant is that with the next harvest, the barrel would have to be emptied so that they could use it for the next harvest--meaning that Barolo of the early 20th century was only aged 12 months before being bottled.</p><p><br /></p><p>As time went on and the region began to recover from the second World War, producers began to add more barrels to their cellars when possible, but at the time, the region was still quite poor. It was during this period that the aging of Barolo in barrel moved from 12 to 18 months. With this in mind, and while tasting his whole-cluster feremented Teodoro, Luca decided that he would experiment by aging part of his Teodoro fruit for only 18 months, to see if it would benefit the wine. Luca’s thought is that, one day, we may see more Barolo aged for less time in wood. Sort of a “what was old is new again” approach. Luckily for all of us at this tasting, he brought a sample.</p><p><br /></p><p>L1861 Teodoro (Whole-cluster 60%, aged in Neutral barrels 18 months) - The nose was remarkably pretty and spicy, showing intense layers of sweet herbs, rosy florals, and crushed stone minerality, before giving way to dark red berry tones with hints of pepper, dried orange peel and hints of new leather. On the palate, I found silky textures offset by a vibrant wave of acidity, as zesty red berry fruits with floral and peppery underpinnings washed across the senses, leaving hints of tannin and spice in their wake. The finish was long with a twang of acid tapering off to reveal dried red fruits and hints of fine tannin. This is something like I’ve never tasted before from Barolo, and it’s an expression of Nebbiolo that I would absolutely seek out if available on the market. (92-94 points) </p>Eric Guidohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16780641005168603049noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8084232295286066032.post-77787059298769311552019-01-19T14:43:00.087-05:002021-12-27T15:43:31.410-05:00The Balance of the Blend: Vietti Castiglione<h3 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-style: italic; font-weight: 700; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: small;">What It Takes to Make the Vietti Barolo Castiglione</span></span></h3><div><span style="font-style: italic; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: small;">By Eric Guido</span></span></div><p style="text-align: left;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-06ac5680-7fff-6044-3a9e-6f764b37a989"><span style="font-family: georgia;">What does it take for a producer of Barolo to decide that it’s more important to create one great wine to please the majority of collectors, at a tremendous price, versus creating five single-vineyard Cru Barolo that they could charge 3-4 times as much for and easily sell?</span></span><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br /></span></p><div><p style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: left;"><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Passion? Tradition? Responsibility? Love for the region and for their family? I’m of the opinion that when it comes to Luca Currado of the Vietti winery, each of these reasons come into play.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgI7VQWBwrSAWjIq6s_NKNlUa4mo9BmDsAsSqyGFS93_Tv15zLQhHwvbFZwklxRrqj1FQ8qAeeAGqHq68uAYk3-3Nh_RYkWQ0dI4CPH_YMcmNhitHG_ZVzrSmvZ3gZXd7V3O1KgCYGvIQXIw1CarYf1RmmBo3xT6_8aavF4VjWStp_jXsU5mh0q8UZu=s1000" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="689" data-original-width="1000" height="220" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgI7VQWBwrSAWjIq6s_NKNlUa4mo9BmDsAsSqyGFS93_Tv15zLQhHwvbFZwklxRrqj1FQ8qAeeAGqHq68uAYk3-3Nh_RYkWQ0dI4CPH_YMcmNhitHG_ZVzrSmvZ3gZXd7V3O1KgCYGvIQXIw1CarYf1RmmBo3xT6_8aavF4VjWStp_jXsU5mh0q8UZu=s320" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: georgia;">As Luca talks about Barolo, Piedmont and all that has come before him in this region, he speaks with such love, excitement and reverence, that it becomes easy to understand why the Vietti Barolo Castiglione continues to be produced. To this day, it is one of the greatest examples of traditional Barolo, as well as being priced remarkably fair and able to stand proud next to many of the top wines of the region. It’s because of this that I feel compelled to be an advocate of both the wine and the winery, to make sure that people know just how much goes into producing it. However, there’s another reason as well, and that reason is that I also feel it’s my duty to make sure that Barolo lovers really do understand the benefit of having the Barolo Castiglione in their own cellars.</span><p></p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">The first thing to understand is that Luca is determined to make Vietti’s flagship wine the best Barolo that he can in every vintage. And don’t fool yourself. The flagship of this house is not the multiple 100-point-scoring Ravera, the classic Rocche with its amazingly long track record, the Lazzarito from one of the region’s “hottest” locals, or the Brunate, with its famous location and name. No, the flagship at Vietti is the Castiglione.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjlvYqb7bWh8iROz6ySqh3ZOoWUHXmlX7FOvzy2JLnGkPyEO1Yd59GmgN9O4Fi9OOqosPsr_E4GCZt9aGQeS3ro-1e6sBb5iTxDw2ffLkIfWTDMZi9onUzH-9BrGYmoye-soKv8UkDbhECw_Nuvz8vYkTvZ6Rc47mUAvm0hnoSq8JmnY-W4ZTQtwFMh=s905" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="905" data-original-width="650" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjlvYqb7bWh8iROz6ySqh3ZOoWUHXmlX7FOvzy2JLnGkPyEO1Yd59GmgN9O4Fi9OOqosPsr_E4GCZt9aGQeS3ro-1e6sBb5iTxDw2ffLkIfWTDMZi9onUzH-9BrGYmoye-soKv8UkDbhECw_Nuvz8vYkTvZ6Rc47mUAvm0hnoSq8JmnY-W4ZTQtwFMh=s320" width="230" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: georgia;">In order to make Castiglione the best that it can be, Luca looks to a collection of single vineyards, He could easily vinify and bottle each of these on their own, however, he chooses to instead blend into one Barolo, the Castiglione. This doesn’t mean that all of the fruit is picked and added to massive tanks and barrels, like many other producers would do. Instead, Luca chooses to raise the fruit from each of these parcels like it would one day be a single-vineyard bottling of Barolo. Each one receives unique care and upbringing through the aging process. It is only after the refinement in large neutral barrels that Vietti begins the blending process and completes the Castiglione.</span><p></p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Recently, I was granted an amazing opportunity to taste through the different vineyards that will produce the 2016 Barolo Castiglione--hold onto your seats, because 2016 is going to blow your minds.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br /></span><h3 style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: center;"><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: small;">The 2016 Barolo Vintage</span></span></h3><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Just to provide a bit of background on the year, as I’ve been tasting 2016s from barrel now for the past two years, it’s a vintage that may outperform the best of the last three decades. The vintage doesn’t require a producer to express their own excitement over it as you taste, because from the moment you put your nose to the glass, or take that first sip, the importance of 2016 becomes apparent. </span></span></p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">The 2016 vintage was one of the longest growing seasons on record, with an early start in the late winter due to drier and warmer conditions than usual. Budbreak took place in early March, yet as the season continued, it became cooler that usual, hence slowing down the maturation. Summer brought long dry days with moderate temperatures, which was followed by a mild and dry September. The result was that picking for Barolo began late on October 5th (in Brunate) and ended on the 25th in Ravera. The fruit was healthy and abundant with ripe tannins and balanced acidities. As for Luca Currado, he believes it may be the greatest collection of wines he’s ever produced, including the Castiglione.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: center;"><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Back to the Castiglione</span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg179pwaCeJojhZE1wAz4SQxTHWphflJL6mAhCC4KkWh0LTAKc4Q3oWCtWW1oDET5ynNSldUpWx4Rqdsl6fflkKOA-xXHrxvxtoEISKpAxjWTCnF9wvDHxdj-LYR5uSd-Hu0mQ97FNLxIpUYjdlKernw7ncO1uJ9sdqG2nZdCWtJo6fHxB0Hk4UhEAg=s797" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="797" data-original-width="650" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg179pwaCeJojhZE1wAz4SQxTHWphflJL6mAhCC4KkWh0LTAKc4Q3oWCtWW1oDET5ynNSldUpWx4Rqdsl6fflkKOA-xXHrxvxtoEISKpAxjWTCnF9wvDHxdj-LYR5uSd-Hu0mQ97FNLxIpUYjdlKernw7ncO1uJ9sdqG2nZdCWtJo6fHxB0Hk4UhEAg=s320" width="261" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br />As I’ve mentioned, the Castiglione is a traditional blend of vineyards. In 2016, those vineyards included Ravera (Novello), Teodoro (Serralunga), Scaronne (Castiglione), Rocchettevino (La Morra), Bricco Fiasco (Castiglione), and a mix (due to the small size of the parcels) of Mosconi and Le Coste (Monforte). In each year, Luca will use as much or as little of these barrels that’s necessary to create the perfect blend of the Barolo Castiglione.</span><p></p><p style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: left;"><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">However, before today, I was never been able to taste each of these wines separately, all while hearing Luca’s comments on each of them. Of course, with Ravera, I’ve had the chance to taste this when barrel-tasting with Luca. Keep in mind that Vietti is able to fill three large, neutral botti with their production from Ravera; it’s one of their largest holdings. From those three barrels, only one makes the cut for the single-vineyard, while the rest can go on to be added to the Castiglione. While visiting with Luca in Piedmont, I’ve been able to taste from all three of those barrels, and I can’t tell you how hard it must be for the Vietti winery to decide which one will be the “Cru” and which will go into the blend, because they are all sublime. </span></span></p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">That said, one of the most eye-opening bottles on this day came from a little-known vineyard in Serralunga, named Teodoro. It was the vibrancy of the fruit, remarkably pretty florals and exotic nature of the wine that first caught my attention. However, what sealed the deal was Luca’s explanation of how the wine is made. Apparently, Teodoro is one of the few vineyards in Barolo that produces fruit that benefits from whole-cluster fermentation. This is a practice that isn’t often used in the region, simply because the character of the grape and terroir doesn’t lend well to it. Most of us know that one of the region’s most highly regarded wines today (Burlotto Monvigliero) is made with whole-clusters. However, that location, with its sandy soils and cool climate, is a perfect example of one terroir that does benefit from it. Apparently, so does Teodoro, and since Luca is always willing to experiment, he found the perfect mix by leaving 60% of the stems intact. What’s more, we were able to taste two different bottlings of Teodoro, one made “traditionally” and one left in barrel for only 18 months, which is a much older tradition from the early 20th century. Comparing these two wines was fascinating.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Granted, this is just the tip of the iceberg, as the completed 2016 Castiglione is not assembled and ready to taste, but I can tell you that I’d be happy with a Barolo made from any one of the components we tasted. That said, with the blending prowess of Luca Currado to make the final decisions, I’m extremely excited to see what the end result will be.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br /></span><h3 style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: left;"><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: small;">The Blend Component Tasting</span></span></h3><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiCszHISB7PjyvAu7oIdeLc2HNXldffUjGvm0Q0m33ssIK6p8KHMfoypByqQwZHGFQh3j_25vI8vVwGWHN4gyUkS172q15cc1EVUfTgR4RfrndB0MciNNtipXVnU_oNgraL3XVaZ5ok1zicwsQaRSiJjrFh5hMDWWpQw-AXWoZ4odq9oqipREdmn1yM=s1000" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"><img border="0" data-original-height="740" data-original-width="1000" height="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiCszHISB7PjyvAu7oIdeLc2HNXldffUjGvm0Q0m33ssIK6p8KHMfoypByqQwZHGFQh3j_25vI8vVwGWHN4gyUkS172q15cc1EVUfTgR4RfrndB0MciNNtipXVnU_oNgraL3XVaZ5ok1zicwsQaRSiJjrFh5hMDWWpQw-AXWoZ4odq9oqipREdmn1yM=s320" width="320" /></span></a></div><i><span style="font-family: georgia;">All wines were barrel samples that had been bottled for this event. Also, my opinions of what each component lends to the blend are my own, and I’m sure Luca has his own thoughts on the matter.</span></i><p></p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">L35 Ravera di Novello </span><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">- This is a wine that I have tasted from barrel and loved each time. Here I found a dark and exotic expression, showing wild berry fruit with notes of purple florals, crushed stone minerality and sweet spice. On the palate, it was smooth, displaying pure red berry fruit in a lifted expression with saline-minerals, showing a tactile mix of acid and tannin that saturated the senses all the way through its dark fruit finish, leaving hints of balsamic spice. I see this as the core of the blend, and the soul. (94-96 points)</span></span></p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">L44 2016 Teodoro (Serralunga)</span><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> - The 2016 Teodoro was absolutely gorgeous on the nose, with an array of wild red berries, rosy florals, earth, and hints of savory herbs, as the wine continued to open in the glass, becoming more Burgundian, lifted and refined. On the palate, I found a soft expression, with tantalizing acidity paving the way for fresh red fruits, inner florals and grippy tannins. The finish was medium in length, resonating on red fruits and florals. The Teodoro is a relatively recent acquisition, and likely what has given the Castiglione its recent boost of aromatic complexity. (92-94 points)</span></span></p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-weight: 700; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjlPL8bVQqR8dDJ0NO34MmGAgRVQpMoEZi2cSbVLqESBJViEOp6enKS8IIUBLDvbkw55ims4XYCUFHdun4ZdNzQchvQovTmKO5f62h7Kae5tBAyc4kMiR2byquFt6ZMvUQ74CUeggrBUUrlZgVdrkssp6aw2nnl3wwNuBt_aAaeEKf30_neSRXSNJNt=s1000" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"><img border="0" data-original-height="633" data-original-width="1000" height="203" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjlPL8bVQqR8dDJ0NO34MmGAgRVQpMoEZi2cSbVLqESBJViEOp6enKS8IIUBLDvbkw55ims4XYCUFHdun4ZdNzQchvQovTmKO5f62h7Kae5tBAyc4kMiR2byquFt6ZMvUQ74CUeggrBUUrlZgVdrkssp6aw2nnl3wwNuBt_aAaeEKf30_neSRXSNJNt=s320" width="320" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: georgia;"><b>L20 2016 Scarrone (Castiglione)</b><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> - This is another wine that I’ve tasted in the past, and as before, one I wish that Luca would consider bottling one day on its own. The nose was remarkably pretty, bursting with an intense expression of red fruits. Raspberry, strawberry and cranberry seemed to all come together as a sweet dusting of spice, minerals and red florals filled the senses. On the palate, I found silky textures, which were offset by saturating red berry and sweet spices, kept in check by a wash of grippy young tannin, which lasted throughout the long finish. I can only imagine what this might taste like in twenty years, and I doubt I will ever find out. That said, the Castiglione would miss the addition of Scaronne, as I see this as the spice in the blend. (93-95 points)</span></span><p></p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">L41 2016 Rocchettevino (La Morra) </span><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">- Here I found a floral expression with rosy red berry fruit complemented by dusty sweet spice, and minerality, creating an exotic and feminine expression. On the palate, soft, enveloping textures gave way to seductive dark, ripe red fruits with a grounding wash of brisk acidity to balance them out beautifully. Hints of tannin emerged on the long, dark fruit finish, yet all in all, this is a wine of texture and very easy to like. I think it goes without saying that the Rocchettevino levels out the structure, giving Castiglione its silky presence on the palate. (91-94 points)</span></span></p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">L39 2016 Mosconi and Le Coste (Monforte) </span><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">- The nose was dark and woodsy, showing a mix of sweet herbal and floral tones, offset by woodland berries and hints of moist earth. On the palate, I found silky textures, yet restrained by a web of complex tannin with mineral underpinnings, as dark red fruits fought to make an appearance. The finish was medium in length, showing the wine’s power and drying its dark red fruits. This is certainly the backbone of Castiglione, and it is sure to lend the structure necessary to mature. (90-93 points)</span></span></p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">L43 2016 Bricco Fiasco (Castiglione)</span><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> - The nose was dark and rich, with a mix of brown spices, crushed red berries, and earthy minerality, yet with time, it became prettier, more floral and gained a note of sweet spice. On the palate, I found a feminine expression, with silky, lifted textures giving way to mineral-encased, crunchy black fruits, echos of dark florals and spice. The finish was long, as fine tannin mounted, slowly drying the wine’s fruit and leaving an expression of power. I find this to be the iron fist that comfortably fits into the Castiglione’s velvet glove. Gorgeous. (93-95 points)</span></span></p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><i><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhQ4PP5U9G3moHM6XX9We2OHu7nH4Z4b0TfTvDS-sp4Qd2gYojL5KaBDqedQ7_kNMJFEJ_g6WHFwfGtZiZRizC4b_7G9or4GM16p3Ez-7RWVeM0Cnmy5R3VF-mB-e-LXFo8PFn7hJg3E2n4LW6yTfSjSV31OGInADwmmxRYruDouaokiWTM-Z7B8KQy=s895" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="895" data-original-width="650" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhQ4PP5U9G3moHM6XX9We2OHu7nH4Z4b0TfTvDS-sp4Qd2gYojL5KaBDqedQ7_kNMJFEJ_g6WHFwfGtZiZRizC4b_7G9or4GM16p3Ez-7RWVeM0Cnmy5R3VF-mB-e-LXFo8PFn7hJg3E2n4LW6yTfSjSV31OGInADwmmxRYruDouaokiWTM-Z7B8KQy=s320" width="232" /></a></div><br />** Addition after tasting the final bottled 2016 Castiglione Barolo on 5-12-2019 **</i></span></div><div><span style="font-family: georgia;"><i><br /></i></span><span style="font-family: georgia;"><b>2016 Vietti Barolo Castiglione</b> - The nose on the 2016 Castiglione is stunningly dark and alluring, as it draws me closer to the glass. Here I'm finding notes of crushed strawberry, with wild herbs, orange-spiced tea, smoke, licorice, and hints of white pepper. Its silky textures flood the senses with a mix of ripe red and blue fruits along with sweet herb tones, which are complimented by zesty acids and saturating minerality. Yet through it all, fine tannins slowly mount with each sip, leading to a structured finale, as mineral-infused sweet cherry resonates amidst hints of tobacco and cedary spice. (94 points)</span><p></p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br /></span><h3 style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: center;"><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: small;">On a side note, and a bit of a treat</span></span></h3><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg94dl8Zut_1tical1ej_MaPUSt-uSxJ58qZgExIRDul6yrFS-pvUq61OFjKy7v92SC10C8BOGdeNPpjcCNznKLEx2x00mkrD2U8xeg2GHpQgvE4KeWDsolaAa5fa2nn8Jy7Gh2_Cu3Dfm7BfknrzShrAIkQdiXXhVTvyvDgt3XJgoZsYkS3p1tQJim=s1000" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="739" data-original-width="1000" height="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg94dl8Zut_1tical1ej_MaPUSt-uSxJ58qZgExIRDul6yrFS-pvUq61OFjKy7v92SC10C8BOGdeNPpjcCNznKLEx2x00mkrD2U8xeg2GHpQgvE4KeWDsolaAa5fa2nn8Jy7Gh2_Cu3Dfm7BfknrzShrAIkQdiXXhVTvyvDgt3XJgoZsYkS3p1tQJim=s320" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: georgia;">As Luca had explained, the Teodoro vineyard is one of the few locations within Barolo where the harvested Nebbiolo benefits from whole-cluster fermentation. He also went on the explain that what we all consider traditional only depends on how far back into history that we are looking, and that he is often looking further back to consider everything that came before. Thinking along these lines, Luca looked to a time before the first World War, a time when your average Barolo producer would only have one large barrel in their cellar, which was used to collect all of their fruit, ferment it, and age it. What this meant is that with the next harvest, the barrel would have to be emptied so that they could use it for the next harvest--meaning that Barolo of the early 20th century was only aged 12 months before being bottled.</span><p></p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">As time went on and the region began to recover from the second World War, producers began to add more barrels to their cellars when possible, but at the time, the region was still quite poor. It was during this period that the aging of Barolo in barrel moved from 12 to 18 months. With this in mind, and while tasting his whole-cluster fermented Teodoro, Luca decided that he would experiment by aging part of his Teodoro fruit for only 18 months, to see if it would benefit the wine. Luca’s thought is that, one day, we may see more Barolo aged for less time in wood. Sort of a “what was old is new again” approach. Luckily for all of us at this tasting, he brought a sample.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br /><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhT9bnHB2lWj7Kewmr44CGnncdADQ9Lzs7SHsWBIGkdBuGZMy6o7kUDIcwtEcaavS8Jep97-XXN3cpocFwzOFao5apALKI9NzoM2m2J-srKC5y3p2m-Uy3lHXDW_BZWflNbD0STKoFd9o5CRHwvgdp-DyeKQKiZaPek5KP16i_om71tCACymmWyATvG=s1000" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="658" data-original-width="1000" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhT9bnHB2lWj7Kewmr44CGnncdADQ9Lzs7SHsWBIGkdBuGZMy6o7kUDIcwtEcaavS8Jep97-XXN3cpocFwzOFao5apALKI9NzoM2m2J-srKC5y3p2m-Uy3lHXDW_BZWflNbD0STKoFd9o5CRHwvgdp-DyeKQKiZaPek5KP16i_om71tCACymmWyATvG=s320" width="320" /></a></div>L1861 2016 Teodoro (Whole-cluster 60%, aged in Neutral barrels 18 months) </span><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">- The nose was remarkably pretty and spicy, showing intense layers of sweet herbs, rosy florals, and crushed stone minerality, before giving way to dark red berry tones with hints of pepper, dried orange peel and hints of new leather. On the palate, I found silky textures offset by a vibrant wave of acidity, as zesty red berry fruits with floral and peppery underpinnings washed across the senses, leaving hints of tannin and spice in their wake. The finish was long with a twang of acid tapering off to reveal dried red fruits and hints of fine tannin. This is something like I’ve never tasted before from Barolo, and it’s an expression of Nebbiolo that I would absolutely seek out if available on the market. (92-94 points) </span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: georgia;"><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span></div><h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Note</span></span></h4><div><span style="font-family: georgia;"><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i><br /></i></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: georgia;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><i>Maps borrowed from Barolo MGA by Alessandro Masnaghetti</i></span></span></div>Eric Guidohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16780641005168603049noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8084232295286066032.post-66117016763537126652019-01-01T15:29:00.000-05:002020-08-09T15:31:02.225-04:00Touring Vintages of the Southern Rhone<h2 style="text-align: left;">Exploring A Love-Hate-Love Relationship at The VIP Table</h2><p><br /></p><p style="text-align: center;"><b>I’ve Always Wanted to Love the Southern Rhone</b></p><p><br /></p><p>For the longest time, you could say that I had a love-hate relationship with the Southern Rhone. </p><p><br /></p><p>Love, in that I wanted to love it. I tried very hard to. I would avidly delve into articles from The Wine Advocate and Wine Spectator, covering the Southern Rhone, talking about its history, its climate, its people, its soil and the descriptions of the wine. As I read, I became more enamored with the region, because with each descriptor, as I imagined the world that these wines came from, I couldn’t help but believe that I would truly love them. So I bought into the hype over the 2005 vintage, and again in 2007; yet when I first tasted the wines, I must admit that I didn’t completely understand. These didn’t speak to me the way they spoke to the critics of that time. </p><p><br /></p><p>Of course, the first thought was that I needed to allow them to mature in my cellar, and so I buried them deep. Then came 2009 and 2010, again with the same result. Somewhere along the way, a good friend organized a 1998 tasting (reportedly a great vintage), and I was overjoyed to attend. I saw it as my chance to get a better idea of the aging curve on these wines, and what I should expect from the maturing vintages in my cellar. Unfortunately, I left that tasting unimpressed, as most of the wines came across as tired, soupy and over the hill.</p><p><br /></p><p>What was I missing?</p><p><br /></p><p>It took quite a bit of time and a lot of trial and error, but in only the last few years, I finally started to understand why I was having so many problems with the Southern Rhone. It was really a three-part issue. </p><p><br /></p><p>One was the style that many of the producers were seeking in the late ‘90s and into the 2000s. You see, the man that was most responsible for bringing the region the fame that it was enjoying was Robert Parker, and many of the producers literally changed their winemaking styles to better fit his palate. They pushed ripeness to the extreme and began to limit the use of the traditional mix of Rhone varieties in their blends. As a result, a large selection of prestige wines appeared on the market, which in most cases took advantage of the choice parcels of old-vine Grenache from each vineyard and pushed them to the edge of over-ripeness. The problem with this is that the mix of Rhone varieties used in a traditional blend were often the reason that winemakers were able to make good, balanced wines in most vintages.</p><p><br /></p><p>Speaking of which, the second issue was vintage. For one thing, it was almost impossible to get all of the different publications to agree on which vintages were better than the others. However, what became very clear to me was that I found the most pleasurable drinking from what many critics considered the “off” vintages. Years that were not necessarily bad, but not the blockbusters that years like 2007 and 2005 were. You can imagine that a warm vintage, mixed with old vines in a hot climate, would make high-alcohol reds that tipped the scales of ripeness.</p><p><br /></p><p>Lastly, there was the drinking window. Somewhere along the path of wine and wine writers becoming part of our pop culture, it was decided that the ability to age a wine over a long period of time was an indicator of how good that wine was. And so, a review would be posted about a current vintage Châteauneuf du Pape, and the recommended date to start drinking the wine would be no less than ten years down the road. What’s more, many of these reviews would lead you to believe that there wasn’t nearly as much pleasure in enjoying them in their youth--which, with the Rhone, would be a huge mistake. Is it a better experience? Not necessarily, but it’s a different experience, and you’re missing out if you don’t taste them young.</p><p><br /></p><p>In the end, what I came to realize is that I preferred most Châteauneuf du Pape, Gigondas, Rasteau (and a host of others) starting around their fifth year of life, and through their twelfth. This is not to say that many of these wines won’t mature past that date, but it must be a structured vintage and a producer who made a wine to age. I also realized that I do prefer the vintages that didn’t receive the hype, such as 2004, 2006, and 2012. Even a year like 2014, where many winemakers added an extra dose of Mouvedere, really brought a unique and truly enjoyable aspect to the vintage.</p><p><br /></p><p>As for the warmer years, in my opinion, it’s a matter of preference. A good example can be found on www.cellartracker.com when reading member notes on the 2007 Clos des Papes, a wine that is either loved or hated depending on the palate. My best advice is to better understand your vintages before jumping in. I recently found an excellent guide to Southern Rhone vintages that was published by Jeb Dunnuck at www.jebdunnuck.com which has greatly increased my enjoyment of these wines.</p><p><br /></p><p>My Inspiration</p><p><br /></p><p>As for my inspiration to start tasting these again and ultimately write this piece, it was the combination of the 2015 and 2016 vintages, which have shown me that the region has made huge strides away from the high-octane wines of the last decade. There’s a balance and vibrancy that I hadn’t seen before, leaving me very excited to see what’s coming next. I’m officially back to collecting wines of the Southern Rhone, and I recommend that it’s time to check in on your own stocks and pay attention to the vintages in the market today.</p><p><br /></p><p>Below you’ll find notes from my recent exploration of wines in my cellar, along with back vintages that I’ve placed on my radar. I tried to focus on what I liked instead of listing the wines that fell flat. The villages of Châteaunuef du Pape and Gigondas get the most love here, basically due to my own tastes and what was available to taste. If you’re not familiar with Gigondas, the wines are spectacular, produced through a very similar blend and aging process as CdP, yet most have a minerality, purple floral tinge and sweet spiciness that I adore. They also mature wonderfully in the cellar.</p><p><br /></p><p>On to the Tasting Notes</p><p><br /></p><p>2003 -- The Jury Is Out</p><p><br /></p><p>I’m hesitant to jump into too many 2003s, as I’ve always thought of this as a very warm year for France. However, it always pays to think about your favorite producers before the vintage, and so an opportunity to taste a mature Caillou Les Quartz could not be passed up. It was pretty special too.</p><p><br /></p><p>Le Clos du Caillou Châteauneuf-du-Pape Domaine du Caillou Les Quartz 2003 - The bouquet was completely mature, yet in a beautiful place, showing dried florals mixed with dusty black earth, as notes of plum, fig and raisin came forward in a sweetly spiced and almost confectionary expression, yet not quite; instead, it swayed more toward the balsamic spectrum. On the palate, I found silky textures on a light-medium bodied frame, creating a hovering effect, as notes of dried black cherry, bitter balsamic spice, moist earth, and hints of Chambord gave way to dried inner floral tones. The entire experience remained incredibly fresh in its maturity, as the acidity here was in perfect balance, going into a long finish, showing saturating dried strawberry, plum, and a slightly porty spiciness. (93 points)</p><p><br /></p><p>2004 - Fresh as a Daisy</p><p><br /></p><p>This is a vintage that Jeb Dunnuck recently turned me onto. I doubt I could explain it better than him: “The 2004s are fully mature and have fresh, vibrant, mid-weight profiles. Given their higher acids, these wines will certainly continue to keep in cold cellars, but there is no upside.” Jeb Dunnuck</p><p><br /></p><p>Domaine de la Janasse Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Chaupin 2004 - The first thing I noticed was the unexpectedly dark ruby color from this fourteen-year-old Chaupin, which ran from its core to the rim. On the nose, I found an inviting mix of rich cherry compote, brown spices, tobacco leaf and hints of dusty earth. It was velvety and rich on the palate, yet it maintained a wonderfully fresh personality, as the wine seemed to glide effortlessly across the senses, showing notes of sweet blackberry, fig, lavender, violets and milk chocolate. Its tannins were fully resolved, yet the acidity remained perfectly balanced, enveloped by the wine’s body, creating an amazing textural experience. The finish was shorter than I’d hoped, with the slightest sensation of heat, yet still displaying a flurry of purple florals and dark fruits before tapering off. The ‘04 Chaupin is fully mature, yet showing no sign of decline. That said, I wouldn’t wait much longer on any bottles still in the cellar. (92 points) </p><p><br /></p><p>Le Clos du Caillou Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve le Clos du Caillou 2004 - The nose was dark, rich... intense, with a display of wood smoke overlaying ripe black cherry and raspberry fruit, with peppery spice, green olive, animal musk, crushed stone, and savory herbs. On the palate, I found velvety textures with spicy dark red fruits, yet lifted by vibrant acidity as a mix of savory spice, wild herbs and saline-minerality coated the senses. Its finish was long, dark and spicy, as saturating black raspberry and spice gave way to an herbal-balsamic twang with lingering minerality. Everything was perfectly in place here, balanced, and so youthful. Nowhere did I find the sweet fruit that early tasting notes spoke of; instead this was a savory and animalistic wine of amazing depth. (94 points)</p><p><br /></p><p>2006 - Always Charming</p><p><br /></p><p>This should have been the vintage that tipped me off early to my preference for the under-the-radar years, as I fondly remember quickly working through half a case of Janasse Chaupin. The 2006s are wonderfully textured wines with dark fruit and usually a wild herbal note. They are fully mature and worth seeking out.</p><p><br /></p><p>Domaine Giraud Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée les Grenaches de Pierre 2006 - The nose was incredibly dark, rich and earthy, showing baked plum, crushed black cherry, balsamic wood, sweet tobacco, classic garrigue, hints of animal musk and moist soil tones. On the palate, I found a silky Autumnal expression, complemented by ripe blackberry, cherry and plum, with black licorice, sweet spice, more balsamics, hints of coffee rind, brown spice, minerals and hints of mushroom. The finish was long, with zesty spice and residual acids making the mouth water, as saturating black cherry and minerals lingered long. This is a full-throttle, fruit-forward and massively textural wine, yet it maintains amazing balance. (93 points)</p><p><br /></p><p>Château de Saint-Cosme Gigondas Les Claux 2006 - At twelve years old and from a vintage that flew well under the radar, the '06 Les Claux showed a complex bouquet of crushed blackberry in brown sugar, with spiced orange, wood smoke, savory dried meats, provencal herbs, white pepper and a hint of exotic dark florals. On the palate, I found soft, velvety textures, lifted by a burst of bright acidity, as vibrant black fruits, spice and minerals splashed across the senses, soaked in a sheen of liquid violet florals, with a savory, salty meatiness left in its wake. The finish was wonderfully long and mouthwatering, resonating of smoked meats, saline-minerals, tart black fruits and lingering purple florals, with hints of tannin still tugging at the palate, yet almost completely resolved. Wow, just wow! (94 points)</p><p><br /></p><p>2007 -- Love ‘em or Hate ‘em</p><p><br /></p><p>I think it’s amusing that of the two 2007s I recently had, I scored them very high, because I really didn’t expect to like them so much. However, as I stated above, you need to know what you’re getting into, and if you’re looking for structure, freshness and verve, 2007 is not your thing. Expect intense, ripe dark fruits, with velvety textures. However, the wines that achieved balance in the vintage are remarkable.</p><p><br /></p><p>Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2007 - Upon pop and pour, this was a massive beast of a Châteauneuf du Pape with an intensely sweet and deeply pitched fruit-forward bouquet, massive textures and a hint of heat on the finish. However, after an hour of being left open in bottle, things changed drastically. The nose showed a mix of crushed blackberry, raspberry and fig, with violet pastille accents, crushed stone, sweet dusty minerals, mint, hints of undergrowth and animal musk. On the palate, I found silky, almost-creamy textures lifted by brisk acidity, as a wave of vibrant dark fruit swept across the senses, leaving notes of spicy red berries, savory herbs, minerals and blue inner florals in its wake. The finish was wonderfully long and fresh, as hints of tannin settled on the side palate, and remnants of black fruit, minerals and savory herbs lingered on. The balance here is remarkable, especially for the vintage. (95 points)</p><p><br /></p><p>Le Clos du Caillou Châteauneuf-du-Pape Domaine du Caillou Les Quartz 2007 - The 2007 Quartz is absolutely a wine for the hedonist, yet we all need to treat ourselves from time to time. The nose was incredible, showing a mature mix of both savory and sweet, leading off with a burst of balsamic-soaked black cherry, crushed blackberry, licorice and brown sugar, as notes of rubbed sage, allspice, plum sauce and dark earth mixed to form a heady yet wonderfully enjoyable bouquet. On the palate, silky textures displaying velvety weight flooded the senses with notes of overripe plum, black cherry, cinnamon, saline-minerals, sweet tobacco and inner floral tones. The finish was long with a bitter twang of spiced orange, rosemary, sage, dried cherries and lasting savory minerals. (95 points)</p><p><br /></p><p>2011 - Sunkissed and Singing</p><p><br /></p><p>I can’t say that the below wine is necessarily the best representation of the vintage, it’s essentially an under-the-radar Rayas. However, what I can say is that the best 2011s take the warmth and ripeness of the vintage and match it with radiant personalities and energy. Again, know what you’re getting into, and expect these wines to be racy and ripe.</p><p><br /></p><p>Château des Tours Côtes du Rhône 2011 - Another incredible performance from the 2011 Château des Tours Côtes du Rhône, with a wonderful bouquet of fresh ripe strawberry complemented by exotic florals, sweet-and-savory herbs, crushed seashell minerality, hints of rose, pepper and undergrowth. On the palate, it was wonderfully fresh, vibrant and fleshy, with silky textures contrasting zesty acidity, as sweet, floral-laced strawberry and spice swept across the senses with a hint of green stems, yet in the best possible way. The finish was long, as hints of mineral-soaked tannin tugged gently at the senses, while lingering cherry and strawberry tones, a twang of zesty acid, and wood smoke remained. What a gorgeous wine, and I'm so happy to have half a case left in the cellar. (94 points)</p><p><br /></p><p>2012 -- Firing On All Cylinders </p><p><br /></p><p>Here we find wines that possess a fresh personality over pliant fruit with balanced acidity. The result is that 2012 is a vintage that remains firmly on my radar. Consider me a buyer.</p><p><br /></p><p>Domaine Giraud Châteauneuf-du-Pape Tradition 2012 - The nose was dark, showing spicy blackberry, crushed black cherry, balsamics, white pepper, and smoky minerality, with a note of garigue. On the palate, it was velvety smooth, displaying notes of black raspberry, as savory meatiness and spice flooded the senses, along with zesty acidity and saturating saline-minerality. The finish was medium-long, resonating on savory cherry, a twang of wild herbs, and lingering fine tannin. Who doesn't love this wine? (92 points)</p><p><br /></p><p>Domaine de la Janasse Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Chaupin 2012 - The nose was dark with depths of ripe red and black fruits, black tea, crushed raspberry, and a hint of licorice. On the palate, I found soft textures, yet it was energetic and lifted with inner florals and sweet black-toned fruits. The finish was fresh, soft, and remarkably pretty, leaning more toward grace than power. (92 points)</p><p><br /></p><p>Domaine Bois de Boursan Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée des Félix 2012 - The nose was dark and intense with crushed raspberry, cherry, sweet florals, hints of lavender, and clove. On the palate, I found silky textures offset by intense dark red fruits, where the textures were almost oily yet offset by chewy, cheek-pucking tannin. It finished on dark, spicy fruits with a hint of bitter herbs. There's so much going on in this glass, and there is a tremendous amount of depth to its fruit--yet it is structured and balanced. (94 points)</p><p><br /></p><p>2013 -- A Mixed Bag </p><p><br /></p><p>I remember tasting many of the 2013s upon release and finding them to be concentrated yet taut, without the dimensions of better vintages. It remains a year that I seldom recommend.</p><p><br /></p><p>Domaine de la Janasse Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes 2013 - The nose was dark and intense with crushed raspberry, fresh herbs, soil tones and hints of undergrowth. On the palate, I found a fresh expression offset by saturating red fruits, with sweet minerality, a bump of acidity, and fine tannin. It finished tense, youthfully structured and restrained. I’m not sure what to make of the 2013 at this point in its evolution; only time will tell. (92 points)</p><p><br /></p><p>Domaine des Bosquets Gigondas La Colline 2013 - The nose was dark, rich and layered with blackberry and plum giving way to savory spices, and raw red meat, with hints of violet florals, lavender, and crushed stone. On the palate, I found creamy textures, yet it was finessed and lifted with violet floral-tinged tart black fruits, savory spice, and caking minerality, as zesty acidity created a bump of energetic trust toward the finale. The finish was medium in length, resonating on blackberry and lingering minerals, with lasting inner florals. Be warned that upon pop and pour, the La Colline was far less interesting. (92 points)</p><p><br /></p><p> </p>Eric Guidohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16780641005168603049noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8084232295286066032.post-88713063128772415442018-09-08T10:47:00.037-04:002021-11-26T11:04:39.852-05:00Exposing Terroir In Ribera Del Duero<h3 style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: left;">Tasting with Dominio del Aguila at The Cellar Table</h3><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VGRKAatO5TE/YaEEOtnQASI/AAAAAAAAkI0/AecKu4e88-E0y_yZYLgJnkP65L7AS1GpQCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Domino%2Bdel%2BAguila%2BVineyards%2B3%2B%25284%2Bof%2B4%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1365" data-original-width="2048" height="213" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VGRKAatO5TE/YaEEOtnQASI/AAAAAAAAkI0/AecKu4e88-E0y_yZYLgJnkP65L7AS1GpQCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/Domino%2Bdel%2BAguila%2BVineyards%2B3%2B%25284%2Bof%2B4%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />Vega Sicilia, Pingus, and Pesquera. These are the names that we associate with the Ribera del Duero, as well as the styles. In fact, it would be difficult for the average wine lover to think of anything else. Vega Sicilia alone defined what the region was capable of, and grew into an international brand long before anyone else had aspirations of creating wines that would be collected and hunted for the world over. In fact, when most producers in Ribera speak of their vineyards, it’s usually in relation to where their vineyards start and Vega’s end. <p></p><p>This makes perfect sense when you tour the region, watching the hills that slope up from the alluvial plains, showcasing their old-vine Tempranillo. Vega has relied on families that have been with them for generations to maintain these vines over time. In some cases, they are upwards of 130-150 years old, and they still go into Vega’s blend. However, as you come closer to the valley floor, things become quite different. The vine ages go down drastically, the soils change, and suddenly things start to look more like a greener version of Napa Valley instead of Spain.</p><p>It’s because of this and the inclusion of international varieties, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, that the average wines of Ribera start to look a lot alike, along with a reliance on new oak, which masks the stamp of terroir with a sheen of spicy vanilla. The properties with the best vines and vineyard locations are able to make amazing wines in spite of this, even though it can take many years for the oak to integrate. I for one would never turn my nose up at a mature Unico. However, if terroir and the flavor of indigenous varieties is what you seek, then Ribera is not the best place to look--at least not until recently. </p><p><b>Looking to the Hills</b></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4zyWE-nhnSM/YaEEWr3ZrOI/AAAAAAAAkI8/NuRuSexlczQpQjEPngdBFIsEpR-NOWyngCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Domino%2Bdel%2BAguila%2BVineyards%2BJorge%2BWorking.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1365" data-original-width="2048" height="213" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4zyWE-nhnSM/YaEEWr3ZrOI/AAAAAAAAkI8/NuRuSexlczQpQjEPngdBFIsEpR-NOWyngCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/Domino%2Bdel%2BAguila%2BVineyards%2BJorge%2BWorking.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />I think back to my last trip to Ribera del Duero, and one thing that I kept finding myself doing was looking to the hills. As I stood at the edge of a road, peering into one of Vega’s old-vine parcels, I started to wonder where that road led as it wound up a steep hilly landscape. Turning to a wall of rock, roots and soil behind me, from a sheer slice of earth that was carved away to make space for that road, I began to question why there was so little emphasis on what could be found there. On these lower slopes, the soils consisted of a fine mix of colluvial deposits from the hillsides above, along with sandy limestone and a layer of quartz gravel beneath. Yet here you could also see a white hue from the addition of chalk. What else was up there?<p></p><p>This prompted me to begin looking for the expression of RIbera del Duero that I craved, knowing that every region has its artisans, grower-winemakers that think big but work small and have an attachment to terroir. At the time, I just didn’t know who those people were in Ribera.</p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Dominio del Águila</h3><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uF7TFZ276l4/YaEEiCBryPI/AAAAAAAAkJE/2XPUc-SSEIg5jHoT2JEaTfDK2hmDjjuagCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Domino%2Bdel%2BAguila%2BJorge%2B%25281%2Bof%2B1%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1365" data-original-width="2048" height="213" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uF7TFZ276l4/YaEEiCBryPI/AAAAAAAAkJE/2XPUc-SSEIg5jHoT2JEaTfDK2hmDjjuagCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/Domino%2Bdel%2BAguila%2BJorge%2B%25281%2Bof%2B1%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />It was only two years ago that Dominio del Aguila came unto my radar. At first, it was an item that was allocated and purchased by Morrell in limited quantities, the kind of quantities that don’t warrant being able to taste a wine before making a buying decision. With them came some dramatically high scores from the Wine Advocate, and so, as these things tend to go, some of the wine sold due to their scores, and the rest sat long enough that I began to research the producer to better understand how we should sell their wine. <p></p><p>This research provided my ah-ha moment; the realization that Jorge Monzon of Domino del Aguila was doing exactly what I had hoped, exposing the unique terroir and native varieties of Ribera del Duero. Let’s keep in mind that Tempranillo is as closely tied to the Ribera as any variety can be to a historical region. In fact, a wine can not be included in the Ribera del Duero designation without being at least 75% Tempranillo. The problem is that much of the recent plantings are using high-production clones, plus adding more Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot in the place of old-vine, less productive, Tempranillo.</p><p><b>But there’s so much more to it than that.</b></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-e3Hcuf4wZ9k/YaEErQ_nqWI/AAAAAAAAkJM/z8btBTUBKT0QSsP9Rloz2dAPg0PqF-euwCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Domino%2Bdel%2BAguila%2BVineyards%2B130-40.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1365" data-original-width="2048" height="213" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-e3Hcuf4wZ9k/YaEErQ_nqWI/AAAAAAAAkJM/z8btBTUBKT0QSsP9Rloz2dAPg0PqF-euwCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/Domino%2Bdel%2BAguila%2BVineyards%2B130-40.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />These are vineyards from another time, when different varieties were interplanted to create field blends. Granted, when these vines were first planted, the wines they created may have been simple, easy-drinking, farmers’ wines. However, today these ancient vines of 80-150 years old!!! What’s more, they are planted in locations that may not be ideal for modern-day farming, but perfect for the artisan who works by hand. It was in these vineyards around the town of Aguilera, between 870 to 900 meters above sea leave, that Jorge found old-vine Tempranillo planted along with Albillo, Tempranillo Gris, Carinena, Garnacha, Bobal, Brunel and a number of other varieties that are still awaiting identification. <p></p><p>Jorge identified these locations and slowly acquired them over the course of ten years while working for Arzuaga-Navarro. Throughout that time, he nursed the vines and soils back to health using organic principals, while selling his production to the who’s who of the region. Jorge was basically biding his time to be able to launch Dominio del Aguila in 2010, when he was confident in the fruit he was producing and how to properly vinify them into the style of wine he envisioned. With the help of his wife and partner, Isabel Rodero, they then set to rebuild three acient cellars which date back to the 15th century, to age and store their production.</p><p><b>So what was that vision?</b></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VR8ImxgS3JQ/YaEE_ghutFI/AAAAAAAAkJU/2crsFGmnC-oKhu88bYtXm55g3Xy6QzmNACNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Domino%2Bdel%2BAguila%2BVineyards%2BJorge%2Band%2Bfather.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1365" data-original-width="2048" height="213" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VR8ImxgS3JQ/YaEE_ghutFI/AAAAAAAAkJU/2crsFGmnC-oKhu88bYtXm55g3Xy6QzmNACNcBGAsYHQ/s320/Domino%2Bdel%2BAguila%2BVineyards%2BJorge%2Band%2Bfather.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />It becomes easy to understand Jorge’s inspiration if you look further back into his past. Prior to Arzuaga-Navarro, he worked for Vega Sicilia, trying to perfect a white wine that would stand shoulder-to-shoulder with Unico. Before that, he was at Domaine La Romanee-Conti, working alongside the cellar master, Bernard Noblet, and soaking in any knowledge that he could. Things suddenly start to become clearer when you consider his past.<p></p><h4 style="text-align: left;">Today’s Wines and Looking to the Future</h4><p>Today, the wines of Dominio del Aguila are like nothing I’ve ever tasted from Ribera del Duero, and I mean that in the best possible way. The combination of old-vine field blends, foot-trodden fruit, whole-cluster fermentation, and aging in neutral barrels for the majority of the portfolio has created one of the most exciting mixes of wines that I’ve had the pleasure to taste in a long time. If tasted blind, you would never guess Spain. You would possibly find yourself thinking that it was an off-the-beaten-path producer from Languedoc, someone willing to experiment and release at a price point that could land their wines into the right markets.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ziuP9F0pk_A/YaEFMJNK83I/AAAAAAAAkJY/h95f2XV-1P4sqSjCJ_MkVU96-7bnP7zbgCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Domino%2Bdel%2BAguila%2BVineyards%2B2%2B%25286%2Bof%2B12%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1365" data-original-width="2048" height="213" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ziuP9F0pk_A/YaEFMJNK83I/AAAAAAAAkJY/h95f2XV-1P4sqSjCJ_MkVU96-7bnP7zbgCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/Domino%2Bdel%2BAguila%2BVineyards%2B2%2B%25286%2Bof%2B12%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />Take the Picaro Tinto Vinas Viejas as an example. Here we have a Tempranillo-based red (95%) with a small mix of varieties grown in heavy clay soils, that was crushed by foot, fermented with stems, and aged for thirteen months in completely neutral wood. It’s a wine that sells for $35 per bottle and could make a believer out of anyone who has given up on Ribera. Minerality, acidity, vibrant fruit, balance and grippy tannin--all present and ready to impress. <p></p><p>As you work your way deeper into the portfolio, we find the Albillo Viñas Viejas, one of the most characterful Spanish whites that I’ve ever tasted. It can’t even bear the designation of Ribera del Duero due to the rules of not accepting any white varieties, yet I assure you that this is one of the top wines of the entire region. Then there is the Riserva, the company’s flagship, and a wine that deserves hours of meditation as it unfolds both in the bottle and the glass. I had the opportunity to taste this wine once over the course of a day, and each taste was better than the one before it. The Reserva comes from 85-year-old vines planted in sandy clay soils with limestone mixed throughout, and again, foot-trodden, whole clusters and aged in neutral oak barrels.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gSPccL7EHxg/YaEFTvUo9kI/AAAAAAAAkJg/cckECFq1BqI8ow0Qzzl1grqMt9sW7JDVwCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20190514_214747.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gSPccL7EHxg/YaEFTvUo9kI/AAAAAAAAkJg/cckECFq1BqI8ow0Qzzl1grqMt9sW7JDVwCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/20190514_214747.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />Lastly, there’s the Gran Reserva Pena Aladas, from several sites around the Pena Aladas, which host vines that are well over 100 years old, growing in a thin layer of sandy clay over gravel, limestone and bedrock. The Pena Aladas spends 51 months aging in the cellars of Dominio del Aguila, and may well be an immortal wine. Tasting it is like dreaming of what may come, because today, it contains so many intense layers and sensations that it nearly overloads your senses. I can only hope to be able to taste this wine again when it’s mature.<p></p><p>There is more, as Jorge is a believer in terroir and continues to search for new and interesting ways to expose it. One wine that I’ve yet to taste is the Canta la Perdiz, which has received some of the highest praise imaginable from popular critics.</p><p><b>What more can I say?</b></p><p>I cannot recommend Dominio del Aguila highly enough. I don’t recall having been this excited about a new producer in a very long time, and I can only imagine that other producers have become inspired by what Jorge has accomplished. We may be witnessing a rebirth of the entire region. The classics will always be the classics, with an audience that loves them, but I can safely say that Dominio del Aguila is blazing the trail for what Ribera del Duero will likely soon become.</p><h4 style="text-align: left;">On to the Tasting Notes</h4><p><b>2014 Dominio del Águila Pícaro Clarete Ribera del Duero</b> - The nose was remarkably pretty, showing fresh crushed strawberries with hints of dusty earth, sweet herbs and minerals. On the palate, I found soft textures with pure red fruits, a stunning mix of acid and minerals with hints of citrus. The finish was spicy and medium-long with lasting minerality. (91 points)</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KzdBZ8w2G04/YaEEAK9oD4I/AAAAAAAAkIw/735jq7atHUAD-CDQqNW6Br1ihsWjMR6tACNcBGAsYHQ/s1179/20190518_155148.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1179" data-original-width="750" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KzdBZ8w2G04/YaEEAK9oD4I/AAAAAAAAkIw/735jq7atHUAD-CDQqNW6Br1ihsWjMR6tACNcBGAsYHQ/s320/20190518_155148.jpg" width="204" /></a></div><b>2016 Dominio del Águila Tinto Pícaro del Águila </b>- The nose was dark and sweetly spiced, with notes of crushed stone giving way to exotic spice, dusty raspberry, cherry, and sweet floral tones. On the palate, I found silky, almost creamy textures with sweet-and-sour red and blue fruits, lavender, and violets leaving a coating of mineral and spice upon the senses. The finish was long yet fresh, with zesty red fruits, grippy light tannin and resonating minerality. (92 points)<p></p><p><b>2014 Dominio del Águila Ribera del Duero Reserva Tempranillo</b> - The nose was dark with savory minerals up front, crushed stone and animal musk, as peppery herbal tones emerged On the palate, I found silky textures, yet energetic, with saturating dark blue and red fruits, smoky crushed stone, ashen-earth, sweet herbal and spice tones. The finish was long, displaying masses of lingering minerals, marine-inspired florals, building tannin and fresh woodland berries. This wine took three hours to really open up, but it was well worth the wait. (95 points)</p><p><b><br />2014 Dominio del Águila Albillo Viñas Viejas</b> - The nose was incredibly spicy, with a burst of hot green peppers and curry leaf up front, giving way to wild herbs, crushed stone, lemon rind, and hints of fresh green apples. On the palate, I found silky, deep textures with minerality up front, as young pit fruits and wet stone came forward, complemented by brisk acidity adding verve and lift from the mid-palate through the finale. The finish was long with saturating minerals, wet stone, wild flowers and spice. Wow. (95 points)</p><p><b>2013 Dominio del Águila Ribera del Duero Gran Reserva Penas Aladas </b>- The nose was dark and intense, showing animal musk, crushed stone, and dark soil tones backed by notes of herbal-infused blackberry, blueberry, wild flowers, and hints of tangerine. On the palate, I found silky, creamy textures with zesty spiced red fruits, lavender, inner herbal tones, saline-minerality and inner soil tones. It was as if the nose transposed perfectly to the palate. The finish was long, showing saturating black cherry and lasting minerality with a coating of fine tannin. I was amazed by how intense and layered yet fresh the ‘13 Gran Reserva was. (96 points)</p>Eric Guidohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16780641005168603049noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8084232295286066032.post-67061416809104977652018-06-01T13:42:00.001-04:002021-08-18T14:06:18.945-04:00 Germany Own-Rooted, Unfiltered & Unstoppable<h3 style="text-align: left;">Talking 120 Years of Wine with Dr. Ulrich Stein </h3><div style="text-align: left;">by: Eric Guido</div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CxnjsV0kEEc/YR1Kl0_aPHI/AAAAAAAAkB0/aZZZboJxSnQQ-7Y2KW4tECOTxPS6n2qTwCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Ulli%2BStein%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1365" data-original-width="2048" height="213" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CxnjsV0kEEc/YR1Kl0_aPHI/AAAAAAAAkB0/aZZZboJxSnQQ-7Y2KW4tECOTxPS6n2qTwCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/Ulli%2BStein%2B2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />Dr. Ulli Stein of the Mosel has yet to find a German wine law that he hasn’t been able to work around in some way shape or form, having even gone to the highest courts of Europe to do so. That’s not to say that his crusade is based on a desire to simply break the rules, but instead that his insights on winemaking, terroir, and the raw ingredients needed to make great wine go against almost one hundred years of misconceptions.<p></p><p>Although the wines of Ulli Stein still fall into the category of the esoteric here in the States, throughout Europe he is considered a visionary. Not only that, but a man who is willing to go to war over his beliefs, and in doing so, improve the entire region. </p><p>If I had to generalize about the wines of Ulli Stein, the first thing that would come to mind is the word “unexpected”, as they don’t follow the rules, much like the man who makes them, and they surprise you at every turn. As I put my nose to a glass of Red Light, Stein’s entry-level Pinot Noir (Spatburgunder in Germany), I was amazed by the purity of fruit and precision that was backed by layers of earth and floral tones. To think that it is a wine that would sell for $32-$35 amazed me, but that was before Ulli had explained his past with red varietals in the Mosel.</p><h4 style="text-align: left;">Bringing Red Wine Back To The Mosel</h4><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A5tT9LWKCKw/YR1KtXL4mzI/AAAAAAAAkB4/aJbJtxKa0fUaJ6jT-gx63RvPxZD8WF0xgCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Stein%2BVineyard.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1405" data-original-width="2048" height="220" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A5tT9LWKCKw/YR1KtXL4mzI/AAAAAAAAkB4/aJbJtxKa0fUaJ6jT-gx63RvPxZD8WF0xgCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/Stein%2BVineyard.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />As he explained it, long before the current regime of German wine laws, it was decided in Nazi-controlled Germany that wine production would be focused exclusively on Riesling, simply because it was the variety that generated the most revenue. They went as far as forbidding the planting of red grapes, making it illegal to do so. These rules went unchanged for over 50 years. Fast forward to the 1980s, when a young Ulli Stein began to question the laws and inquire with authorities to seek permission to plant Pinot Noir. He was met with opposition and a warning that to do so would be illegal. Unwilling to settle for this answer, in the mid-eighties Ulli began to plant Pinot Noir within his holdings, making him one of the first producers and the owner of some of the oldest vines for red wine within the Mosel today. In the late nineties, the rules were changed to permit red varieties, and by that time Ulli had already established himself as a producer of Pinot Noir, Cabernet and Merlot. Today, many more winemakers are working with Pinot Noir in Germany, and the future for the variety looks very bright, especially to me, after tasting the 2015 Stein Spatburgunder Trocken Waechter, a wine made from Pinot Noir planted in blue slate soils as far back as 1987.<p></p><h4 style="text-align: left;">Making The Case for Own-Rooted Vines </h4><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xquEVjPN7kk/YR1Ky4lMF_I/AAAAAAAAkB8/ugPtBVN992U1ygSFfkM5CfEEKBMIaGH4QCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Stein%2BView.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xquEVjPN7kk/YR1Ky4lMF_I/AAAAAAAAkB8/ugPtBVN992U1ygSFfkM5CfEEKBMIaGH4QCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/Stein%2BView.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />However, as renowned as Ulli Stein is for his work with red wine (in a region known mostly for its Riesling), what first drew me to the producer is the work that he does with some of the oldest own-rooted vines in all of Germany. His Himmelreich (heaven) and Hölle (hell) vineyards are both planted to ungrafted vines that date back 65-70 years, and in one section, named Alfer Hölle, he is even able to source fruit from vines planted in 1900.<p></p><p>I was surprised to find out that there are between 50-60 hectares of ungrafted vines in all of Germany, about half of them planted between 1910 and 1935. From that total of own-rooted Riesling, Ulli tends four hectares, a significant percentage. Being well aware of the effects of the Phylloxera epidemic during the late 1800s, I was quite surprised by this. However, while most of the world was forced to quickly adapt to Phylloxera by replanting their vineyards on American rootstocks, in Germany it took significantly longer for the root louse to begin attacking their vines. Much of this was the result of their climate, but also the soils that consist mostly of slate. Even to this day, it’s only in areas where topsoil exists over these stoney soils that Phylloxera can attack German vines.</p><p>So what effect does an old, own-rooted vine have of its fruit and the resulting wine? According to Ulli, old vines produce less fruit (naturally lower yields) but also less sugar (resulting in lower alcohol) and more production of extracts and aromatic compounds. What this means is a wine that is naturally fruit-concentrated yet balanced and with the potential to have more depth both on the nose and the palate. Older vines are also more resistant to disease and fungus, due to their thicker-skinned grapes. </p><p>To this day, Ulli continues to plant ungrafted vines, even though it remains forbidden by German wine laws. For him, there’s no worry that these vines will continue to thrive, free of Phylloxera.</p><h4 style="text-align: left;">The The High Courts of The EU </h4><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PcSl8rl8Kk0/YR1K8bn3SYI/AAAAAAAAkCE/mcvQt7sOJ-gM75TMxwAeUVn0i3cnBn0DACNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Stein%2BVineyards.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PcSl8rl8Kk0/YR1K8bn3SYI/AAAAAAAAkCE/mcvQt7sOJ-gM75TMxwAeUVn0i3cnBn0DACNcBGAsYHQ/s320/Stein%2BVineyards.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />Then there is Strichween, or what, by tradition going back hundreds of years, one would call Straw Wine. Being a lover of both Italian and German wines, I was amazed when Ulli explained to me that the method of making Straw Wine was very much like the production of Amarone, as perfectly ripe grapes would be picked and placed on straw mats to dry and raisinate for a period of time, before being crushed and made into wine. <p></p><p>His interest in Straw Wine brought Ulli back to the authorities once again, only to find out that although the name and wine held a strong foundation in German tradition, no one was permitted to use the name or process in the production of wine for sale. This news sent Ulli to the courts in a battle that brought him all the way to the highest courts of the EU, after which he received permission to produce his wine. Yet even after the battle was won, he was not permitted to use the actual name “Straw Wine”, and so he made up his own from a local dialect, and Strichween was born. </p><p>So there we have it, as Ulli Stein continues to make some of the most highly sought-after, yet locally under-the-radar wine in Germany’s Mosel. He’s doing it from some of the steepest terraces you can imagine (one at a 70% incline), from forgotten vineyards that contain vines that were planted over a century ago. He’s a true believer in the quality of fruit over ripeness, and the work and creativity that goes into making wine being as important as the terroir itself. I doubt he’ll ever stop challenging the system, and I wouldn’t want him any other way, because the man, the wines, and the story paint a complete picture that is Stein.</p><h4 style="text-align: left;">On to the Tasting Notes</h4><p><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EoZA7kS7aek/YR1LDT2AAoI/AAAAAAAAkCQ/rZt2lbrg6_oFigThwPTMNRw6zSVqS7KFACNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Stein%2BRed%2BLight%2B2016.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1460" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EoZA7kS7aek/YR1LDT2AAoI/AAAAAAAAkCQ/rZt2lbrg6_oFigThwPTMNRw6zSVqS7KFACNcBGAsYHQ/s320/Stein%2BRed%2BLight%2B2016.jpg" width="228" /></a></b></div><b><br />Stein Rose 2017</b> - The 2017 Rose is wonderfully fresh, showing strawberry with sweet florals, dusty stone and hints of undergrowth. It's a soft and juicy expression with zesty acidity adding depth to its red berry and sweet mineral tones. It finishes just as it started, wonderfully fresh and full of lively red fruits. (89 points)<p></p><p><b>Stein Pinot Noir Red Light 2016 </b>- The 2016 Red Light is an incredible fresh and zesty expression of Pinot fruit with ripe strawberry giving way to sweet spices, herbs and a hint of white pepper. Here I'm finding soft yet energetic textures with bright cherry fruit, inner florals and lively acidity. The finish iss medium-long and very pretty, displaying hints of fresh red berries, minerals and inner floral tones. Frankly, this glass was hard to put down, and I can imagine enjoying it slightly chilled through the warm days ahead. (90 points)</p><p><b>Stein Pinot Noir Trocken Waechter 2015 </b>- The 2015 Spatburgunder Trocken Waechter is intense with dark peppery red fruits, hints of animal musk and spicy florals on the nose. Soft and incredibly rich textures are balanced by brisk acids and usher in flavors of ripe cherry, plum and inner florals that reminded me of the color purple. It has spunk and energetic, giving way to a long and zesty finish that lingers on savory herbal tones. Talk about making the case for Pinot Noir in Germany. (92 points)</p><p><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4lUU92nEsSs/YR1LJp5qFMI/AAAAAAAAkCU/-GU-rF5ZrHUSMmzswezhbU2Ib8UDMIV8wCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Stein%2BSpatburgunder%2B2015.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1454" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4lUU92nEsSs/YR1LJp5qFMI/AAAAAAAAkCU/-GU-rF5ZrHUSMmzswezhbU2Ib8UDMIV8wCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/Stein%2BSpatburgunder%2B2015.jpg" width="227" /></a></b></div><b><br />Stein Cabernet Merlot Trocken 2015</b> - The 2015 Stein Cabernet / Merlot Trocken shows its cool-climate origins in the best possible way, opening with a display of exotic spice, white pepper, chalk dust and savory mountain herbs. On the palate, soft textures are offset by zesty red and blackberry fruit with saturating minerality on a wiry and tense frame. This finishes long and grippy with crushed wild berries and youthful tannin tugging at the senses. (90 points)<p></p><p><b>Stein St. Aldegunder Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett Trocken 2016 </b>- The 2016 St. Aldegunder Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett Trocken is lively and seductive with ripe grapefruit up front backed by crushed stone and a zest of lime. Here I'm finding soft textures with zesty acidity, as notes of green apple, young mango, sweet minerals and wet stone wash across the senses. The finish is medium-long and precise, making the mouth water while resonating on mineral-infused citrus tones. (92 points)</p><p><b>Stein Riesling Blauschiefer Trocken 2016</b> - The 2016 Riesling Blauschiefer Trocken is intense with ripe peach, mango and apple, as notes of honeysuckle and dusty minerals added depth. It's soft, almost oily textures are grounded by saturating mineral and spice, as notes of green apple combined with zesty acidity to create a truly energetic experience. It tapers off long and satisfying, as green apple combines with zesty minerals offset by lingering brisk acidity. (93 points) <i>This is from fruit coming mostly from Himmelreich at an average 65 year-old vines.</i></p><p><b>Stein St. Aldegunder Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett Feinherb 2016</b> - The 2016 St. Aldegunder Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett Feinherb opens with a layered bouquet, showing young peach and hints of green melon, followed by wild herbs and savory crushed stone. It's a soft and savory expression with a mix of green apple, saline-minerals and lime-infused herbal tones. The finish is medium-long and salty with a twang sour citrus and hints of spice. (92 points) <i>This hails from 75-80 year-old ungrafted vines.</i></p><p><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--cVHjihwReg/YR1LWNRg19I/AAAAAAAAkCc/ciT-gQMU0ZA3Jq9IiLYxDx4dEqfVIw9FwCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Stein%2BPalmberg%2BRiesling%2BTrocken%2B2014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1503" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--cVHjihwReg/YR1LWNRg19I/AAAAAAAAkCc/ciT-gQMU0ZA3Jq9IiLYxDx4dEqfVIw9FwCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/Stein%2BPalmberg%2BRiesling%2BTrocken%2B2014.jpg" width="235" /></a></b></div><b><br />Stein St. Aldegunder Palmberg-Terrassen Riesling Extreme Trocken 2014</b> - The The 2014 St. Aldegunder Palmberg-Terrassen Riesling Extreme Trocken shows fresh apple with hints of undergrowth, crushed stone and floral tones, and seems to gain richness and berth the longer it sats in the glass. This is incredibly soft on the palate, with notes of ripe apple, pear and hints of lime. Zesty pineapple and citrus-tinged minerals define the long and penetrating finish. It’s an incredibly tense wine at this time and aching for time in the cellar, yet packed with potential. (92 points) <i>The "Extreme" is from 90-100 year-old ungrafted vines planted in blue and grey slate soils within a walled vineyard at a 70% incline.</i><p></p><p><b>Stein Riesling "Ohne" 2014 </b>- The 2014 Riesling "Ohne" shows a mix of dried florals, peach and apricot with masses of minerality and hints of smoke. It's weighty and textural yet also perfectly balanced, as notes of dried apricot and citrus rind seemed to coat all of the senses, only to be washed clean by zesty acids and minerals. The finish is remarkably long, showing fresh sliced yellow apple, minerals and crushed white flowers. The Ohne is a very unique wine, allowed to undergo multiple fermentations and not treated with any sulfur. (90 points)</p><p><b>Stein Riesling Striehween 2011</b> - The 2011 Riesling Striehween was a first for me, as I’m sure it is for many, as it’s a category that belongs to Stein. This is produced much like an Amarone, through painstaking processes. Here I'm finding a striking and layered display of dried peaches, apricot, sweet melon, honeysuckle and stone dust. On the palate, it's silky and full-bodied, washing across the senses, lifted by balanced acidity, with notes of ripe peach, apple and honeydew offset by a zing of orange zest. The finish seems to go on and on, yet it is uplifting and fresher than you would imagine, showing sweet florals and hints of kiwi. (93 points)</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xLyMBx8V1D4/YR1LeSsGNnI/AAAAAAAAkCk/wxCcs5Q7nOQ79W8eIkLUF1EjgBnhsbbHgCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/stein%2BCellar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xLyMBx8V1D4/YR1LeSsGNnI/AAAAAAAAkCk/wxCcs5Q7nOQ79W8eIkLUF1EjgBnhsbbHgCNcBGAsYHQ/w400-h300/stein%2BCellar.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p>Eric Guidohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16780641005168603049noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8084232295286066032.post-37394906854680045912018-01-21T10:33:00.002-05:002021-11-27T11:41:57.579-05:00Exploring The Classics of Piedmont<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Early on in my journey to understanding wine, I realized that there was something about the Nebbiolo grape that captivated me. It was something about its purity, mixed with the multidimensional layers or fruit, florals and earth that would develop over time. The difference between a young and old Barolo or Barbaresco (both made 100% from Nebbiolo) is so drastic, as the wine evolves over decades–not years–and transforms from an angular and austere expression into something so graceful, feminine, soft, and giving. Sometimes you don’t even need to taste these wines to receive the gratification you desire, because their bouquet can be so remarkably beautiful, haunting, alluring and satiating that the sip is only the completion of the experience, before returning to the glass for another aromatic exploration.<br />
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Nebbiolo also has the ability to teleport your imagination by communicating terroir so transparently. This is the same reason that so many collectors find their way to Pinot Noir in Burgundy, and why the two grapes are often compared to each other. You’ll find very little in common between Nebbiolo and Pinot Noir, other than their earthy and floral natures, but it is absolute that both will speak more about the places from which they came than most other grapes do. It’s because of this that the trend of single-vineyard or Cru wines became so popular in Barolo and Barbaresco, and even when a producer blends different vineyards together, you can often find the telltale signs of how one site lent the wine its power, another its spice, and another its structure. A lover of fine details, hidden traits, an explorer, or even those who enjoy nearly incalculable equations will find a lot to like in the variety.<br />
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When you add the many different styles of winemaking to this mix, the complexities of Barolo and Barbaresco grow deeper. I found myself saying that I preferred the traditionally-styled wines of the region, macerated for long periods of time on the skins and aged in large neutral oak. Yet I must confess that over time, my mind has been opened to a large number of producers who create wines that are considered “modern” yet made with a soft touch. In fact, the only “modern” barolo I would turn my nose up at today would be one that leaned hard toward drastically reduced yields in the vineyards and a large percentage of new oak. Because if I’ve learned anything in over a decade of tasting these wines, it’s that the lines between modern and traditional have blurred so deeply, that only a small number of producers can now be considered a hardliner in one direction or other. Also, there are some great wines from the past that were made in a “modern” style that are simply irresistible today.<br />
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Speaking of winemakers, Nebbiolo also has a way of inciting as much passion in its producers as in the people who buy them. Passion is what drives many wine lovers, and to think that there is someone on the other side of growing, raising and bottling these wines, who shares a similar passion–is a remarkable feeling. In Piedmont, most winemakers are also the same people who care for the vines in the vineyard (another similarity to Burgundy). These aren’t business people who wear fancy suits or designer clothes to work; they are farmers. Most of them can trace their vine-growing roots back generations, and their face will often light up when presented with a wine that their father, grandfather or older generation produced. Of course, this is slowly changing in Piedmont, as outside investment threatens to buy up its vineyards, but that’s a story for another blog.<br />
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<br />Our Very Own Piedmont Classics Dinner</h3>
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With all of that said, the only way to truly understand all of these differences is to taste, which is absolutely the most enjoyable part of this hobby (obsession) that I share with a wonderful community of fellow worshippers of the Nebbiolo grape. Often we’ve done this through vertical tasting (multiple vintages of different or the same producer to understand vintage characteristics). Sometimes through horizontal tasting (one vintage of the same or multiple producers). We’ve even pitted two producers against each other in a traditional-versus-modern showdown. However, what moved me to words today was our most recent tasting, and one of the best we’ve ever embarked on.<br />
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Being that our group was started on the Vinous forums, we thought that we would borrow an idea from Antonio Galloni and create our own version of his Piedmont Classics dinner. Why not? This is a group of collectors who each have deep cellars of Nebbiolo going back decades. The tasting was organized into four flights by producer. In most cases, each flight had at least one bottle with significant age and a few with moderate to even youthful wines. (Which is funny when you consider that the youngest bottle on the table was ten years old–but this is Nebbiolo we’re talking about.) The producers we settled on were Giacomo Conterno, Bruno Giacosa, Marcarini, and Brovia–all undeniable classics. Plus, we were treated to a blind tasting addition from Cappellano. The venue was La Pizza Fresca, owned, operated–and on this night even manning the brick-fire oven–by Brad Bonnewell (a fellow Cavalieri del Tartufo e dei Vini di Alba).<br />
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It was a study of producer, a study of terroir, a study of vintage, a brick-oven pizza exploration… and one hell of a good time.<br />
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<h3>
On To The Tasting Notes</h3>
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<br />Surprise Blind Bottle: Cappellano</h4>
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I had no idea going into the tasting that I would be treated to a 70-year-old Barolo, which was a true testament to the staying power and nobility of Nebbiolo It makes sense that the producer would be Cappellano. At that time, they were one of the biggest names in the region with some 60 hectares, as well as one of the largest purchasers of grapes. Even with this tremendous production, the name stood for undeniable quality, which is something that has not changed to this day. Bottles of Cappellano from the ‘50s, ‘60s and on to today are always a welcome addition to any tasting.<br />
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<b>1947 Cappellano Super Barolo</b> – This was served blind, and what a treat it was. The ‘47 “Super” Barolo was completely mature yet gorgeous, with a bouquet of cigar box, dried flowers, dusty dry spices, and dark soil tones. On the palate, I found pure, lifted sweet red fruits with zesty acidity, minerals and inner florals. It finished long and spicy with ripe yet dried red fruits and lingering sweet minerality. Wow, what an experience. (<i>93 points</i>)<br />
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Flight 1: Giacomo Conterno</h4>
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We’re looking back 47 years at a time before Giacomo Conterno even owned the vineyard that defines them today: Cascina Francia. In fact, the ‘70 Barolo that was labeled Cascina Francia was due to a lapse in time between bottling, labeling and shipping. It isn’t a Cascina Francia at all (they didn’t own the vineyard at that time), but that didn’t stop it from being one of my wines of the night. At that time, the fruit would have come from a source in Monforte, but little else is known. Another highlight from this night’s flight was a peek into some recent vintages that are coming along very nicely as well.<br />
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<b>1970 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva</b> – Here I found a dark display of mature Nebbiolo, complemented by layers of earthy, savory aromas. Dried leaves, dusty old spices, and hints of roasted meat wafted up from the glass, yet it remained feminine and pure throughout the experience. On the palate, a soft and inviting textural display gave way to tart red fruits with lifting acidity that created an almost-mouthwatering experience. It finished with saturating tart berry tones, earthy soil tones and lingering undergrowth. (<i>95 points</i>)<br />
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<b>1971 Giacomo Conterno Barolo</b> – Where the ‘70 Barolo Riserva was all about feminine grace, the ‘71 instead showed the muscular and attractive gritty side of Nebbiolo. Here I found a rich and dark display with tart red berries up front, followed by animal musk, dried flowers and dark soil tones. It was soft on the palate, with mouth-filling textures which seemed to touch upon all of the senses, as notes of sweet dried red fruits, hints of spice, and minerals prevailed. The finish was long with sour berries, undergrowth and crushed stone. This would have scored higher if there was more clarity or a bump of acidity on the palate, but the fact is that the ‘70 is in fine form and drinking beautifully. (<i>94 points</i>)<br />
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<b>2000 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia </b>– Having never been a big fan of the vintage, the 2000 Giacomo Conterno shows some of its telltale drawbacks, yet it manages to be incredibly enjoyable all the same. Here I found a rich, dark bouquet with crushed cherry, brown spices and dried flowers, yet the wine lacked momentum. On the palate, it displayed silky textures contrasted by intense tart red fruits, inner spice and sweet tannins. The finish was saturating with red fruits, yet it was soft and only medium in length. (<i>92 points</i>)<br />
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<b>2007 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia</b> – While the 2000 did the best it could in a warm vintage, the 2007 excelled with it. The nose was intense with dusty spices, saline minerals, a hint of savory tomato leaf and notes of undergrowth. It showed silky, enveloping textures with intense dark red fruits, which turned slightly tart as youthful tannin began to saturate the senses. Savory minerality and spice persisted throughout the finish, with a cheek-puckering twang of tart fruit and hints of savory herbs. The density here is formidable, nearly masking its young tannin, but the underlying structure should guarantee the 2007 a long life. Very nice. (<i>95 points</i>)<br />
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Flight 2: Bruno Giacosa</h4>
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There is really only one way to follow up a flight of Giacomo Conterno, and that’s with a flight of Bruno Giacosa. What was really amazing were the similarities found throughout each of these wines, a combination of the winemakers stamp and terroir. Picking favorites here was like splitting hairs, and what it really came down to was the level of drinkability from bottle to bottle. However, scoring-wise, it was the potential mixed with the performance that won out the day.<br />
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<b>2001 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto di Serralunga d’Alba</b> – The ‘01 Falletto showed all of the classic hallmarks of the vintage married to the Giscosa style. The bouquet was lifted and pure with a sweet-and-sour persona, as spicy black cherry mixed with sweet herbs and hints of savory tomato leaf. On the palate, I found silky textures that were quickly offset by a combination of dusty minerals and crystalline tannin, as tense, youthful crisp red fruits were ushered across the senses by brisk acidity. The finish was long, showing its youthful tannin with saturating tart red fruits. We still have a ways to go before the ‘01 is in its perfect drinking window, but this night’s bottle was enjoyable on potential alone. (<i>94 points</i>)<br />
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<b>2004 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto di Serralunga d’Alba</b> – You should be very pleased with yourself if you have the ‘04 Falletto in your cellar. Here I found a gorgeous display of rich black cherry and cranberry, with notes of holiday spice, sweet florals, crushed stone minerality and mint. It was silky on the palate with enveloping, soft, ripe spiced cherry fruit, juicy acidity and the sweetest of sweet tannin. The finish was long, showing the first signs of youthful structure with saturating spice and dried cherry tones lingering on. (<i>96 points</i>)<br />
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<b>1999 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Le Rocche del Falletto di Serralunga d’Alba</b> – I’ve been lucky to taste the ‘99 Le Rocche on multiple occasions, as each time it has been stunning. The nose was radiant in its cool, dark red fruit, with raspberry and black cherry, as well as hints of plum. Rosy florals tones, dusty spice and minerals joined the fray with time in the glass. On the palate, I found a refined and structured expression, with black cherry, inner floral, mineral tones and crunchy youthful tannin. The finish was long with palate-coating spiced cherry, sweet inner florals, spice and hints of lingering undergrowth. (<i>96 points</i>)<br />
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<b>1996 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Falletto di Serralunga d’Alba</b> – The ‘96 Falletto showed youthfully restrained, yet it was impossible to ignore on its potential alone. The nose was cool and minty, with notes of black cherry, dusty dried floral tones, licorice and hints of smoke. On the palate, I found an angular expression with depths of dark red fruit and minerals, as fine tannin kept everything in check. The finish was long with saturating tannin, lingering spice, dried inner-florals and mineral tones. (<i>96 points</i>)<br />
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<br />Flight 3: Marcarini</h4>
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Speaking of the classics of Piedmont is not possible without including Marcarini in the conversation. Following a large vertical tasting many years ago, my eyes were opened to this traditional producer, who still manages to fly comfortably under the radar. As you look back to older vintages, the name Cogno is often proudly emblazoned across the label, which is the same man who would go on to create the Elvio Cogno winery that has earned an elevated position in Piedmont today. These are classic, traditionally-styled wines that represent a similar mix of value and quality that we find from vintage Produttori del Barbaresco.<br />
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<b>1968 Marcarini Barolo Brunate</b> – Following a flight on unbelievable Giacosa Barolo isn’t easy, but the ‘68 Marcarini Brunate held its own. Here I found a perfectly mature and remarkably pretty expression of Nebbiolo fruit with dried floral tones up front giving way to dusty soil, hints of brown spice and faded cherry. On the palate, I found a soft and feminine display with zesty acidity giving life to its dried red fruits, along with earth tones and minerals. It was shorter on the finish than I had hoped yet cleaned up very nicely with a twang of tart red fruit and lingering florality. (<i>93 points</i>)<br />
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<b>1973 Marcarini Barolo Brunate Riserva </b>– The nose showed dark dried red berries with sweet florals and a hint of leather. On the palate, I found zesty expression, yet rich enough to the impression of weight, showing bright red berries, earth and minerals. It finished long and balanced with lingering mineral and dried cherry tones. (<i>91 points</i>)<br />
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<b>1974 Marcarini Barolo Brunate</b> – The nose showed dark dried berry tones, followed by animal musk, crushed fall leaves, earth tones, and dusty spice. On the palate, it was airy and lifted with great acidity, showing tart red berries with a savory edge and earthy minerality. The finish was long and earthy, with inner floral tones lasting throughout. I’ve always been a fan of the ‘74 vintage, and this Marcarini was a textbook example of why I love them so much. Simply a great drinking wine and vintage. (<i>92 points</i>)<br />
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<b>1999 Marcarini Barolo Brunate</b> – The ‘99 Brunate is full of potential, showing a classic, traditional nose, with dried red fruits, pine nettles, licorice, medicinal herbs, and sweet florals. On the palate, it was feminine and slightly firm, with saturating tart berry tones, leather, spice and youthful tannin. It finished beautiful and long, displaying earth tones, dried spices and inner florals. This wine is only just starting to approach its drinking window, and I see many decades of positive evolution ahead for it. (<i>93 points</i>)<br />
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Flight 4: Brovia</h4>
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The house of Brovia has undergone many changes over the last thirty years, as Elena and Cristina Brovia took the reins from their father. Quality was said to have steadily improved through that time, and even more in 2001, when Alex Sanchez joined the family. The exciting thing about this night’s tasting was the ability to taste the ‘79 Rio Sordo–a wine made by the previous generation–next to three wines that represent that period of change. The fact that the ‘79 ended up being my wine of the flight has more to do with its perfect maturity, while the ‘96 Ca’Mia technically scored higher.<br />
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<b>1979 Fratelli Brovia Barbaresco Rio Sordo</b> – The bouquet was stunning, showing dusty spices, earth, undergrowth and a hint of iodine, before notes of dried cherry and floral tones began to develop in the glass. On the palate, I found soft textures with zesty acidity giving way to minerals, spice and sweet and sour red fruits. The finish was medium in length, yet still zesty and fresh with dried berry tones, spices and lingering minerality. (<i>93 points</i>)<br />
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<b>1995 Fratelli Brovia Barbaresco Rio Sordo</b> – (<i>Flawed–Badly</i>)<br />
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<b>1996 Fratelli Brovia Barbaresco Rio Sordo</b> – The nose was dark and intense, showing dried cherry, dusty spices, smoke, and minerals upon minerals. On the palate, I found a silky expression with dark red fruits, classic ‘96-styled crunchy tannin, and earthy minerals. It finished long, as its young tannin saturated the senses, drying out the fruit and leaving an impressive of austerity. This was very good, but I do wonder if the fruit will outlive the tannins. (<i>92 points</i>)<br />
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<b>1996 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Ca’Mia</b> – The nose was dark, rich, mineral-laden–classic. Here I found a mix of dried cherry, raspberry, dusty spice, earthy minerality and moist soil tones. On the palate, silky textures were quickly offset by intense dark red fruits, with brisk acidity adding mineral lift and young tannin, which settled down hard on the senses. The finish was long and structured, even cheek-puckering, allowing hints of tart red fruit and minerals to linger. This wine was densely packed, with dark focused fruit wrapped in fine tannin with balancing acidity, which sounds like a recipe for success to me. I can’t wait to see where it’s going. (<i>94 points</i>)<br />
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<h4>
Credits and Resources</h4>
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<i>Article, Tasting Notes, and Photos by: Eric Guido</i><br />
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Thank you to <a href="http://www.lapizzafresca.com/" target="_blank">La Pizza Fresca</a> and Brad Bonnewell<br />
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Don’t forget to check out one of the world’s great wine loving communities: <a href="http://www.vinous.com/forums/index#/discussions" target="_blank">Vinous Forums</a>Eric Guidohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16780641005168603049noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8084232295286066032.post-49614172249318028582017-11-23T15:35:00.015-05:002021-12-27T15:43:13.361-05:00Germany’s Nail-Biter Vintage: 2016<h3 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; white-space: pre-wrap;">2016 German Riesling Review</span></h3><h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: arial; white-space: pre-wrap;"><i>By Eric Guido</i></span></h4><span id="docs-internal-guid-9b9b3b7d-7fff-6b44-553c-57d7813f60e8"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Better Late Than Never</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">In the past, I’ve shared my insights on Germany’s newest vintage releases in the late spring or summer, as I would wrap up my tastings of wines that were brought over by producers to taste with the media and industry, but something about the 2016’s gave me pause. As I tasted the wines, I couldn’t help but feel that they hadn’t quite reached the point that anyone should be tasting them. They were like unruly teenagers, with all of the anxiety, self-conscious mood-swings, and over compensation when in the spotlight. Most of the wines seemed disjointed and some even seemed hollow. Many of the wines from my favorite producers left me feeling unsatisfied--which is what really gave me pause. </span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">I made the decision that I needed to taste these wines again, when they had more time in bottle to settle and get their footing, so to speak. In the end, I’m glad I waited, because what I’m tasting now has me smiling from ear to ear.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><h3 style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: left;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">What to Expect from 2016 German Riesling</span></h3><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">The 2016s are in many cases very immediate wines with rich textures and an acidic spine that takes a back seat compared to vintages like ‘14 and ‘15. Yet these are wonderfully balanced wines and so hard to resist already, and for those who love minerality--there’s plenty to spare.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">The 2016 vintage in Germany was a nail-biter for winemakers. The season started with a warmer-than-average winter that accelerated budbreak, and was followed by spring frost through much of the country and even into Austria. Flowering was late and yields looked to be down, but this didn’t deter growers from remaining positive. It wasn’t until the rains came--and didn’t stop until into July--that most producers realized that there may be reason for worry. Then came the heat, which started out as humid, causing bacterial infections and rot in the bunches. The humidity left, but the heat did not, as it remained throughout August. Growers who worked the vineyards, trimmed bad fruit and sprayed survived through these conditions, but some vineyards lost their entire crop.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">Then September came and with it the only weather that could save such a vintage--warm dry days and cool nights. The well-manicured vineyards were able to recover health, yet yields were down by up to 30% across the region. Growers suddenly went from biting their nails to realizing that they could harvest at their leisure. Mother Nature had saved the day, but it would remain a small vintage with wines that spoke more of a winemaker's prowess than anything else.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><h3 style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: left;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">Where To Look and What to Buy</span></h3><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">For my tastes, I’ve found the most pleasure in the feinherb style of Riesling--those with just enough residual sugar to balance out the intense acidity and minerality. These wines are already drinking beautifully. A good example is Peter Lauer’s Senior, as my household has gone through six bottles, yet I only have one tasting note, because the wine is so easy to love that it just disappears before I can pick up a pen.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">As for the dry wines (Trocken) and Grosses Gewächs, it’s apparent that these are in need of some time to truly stretch out and begin drinking well. My experience with the Julian Haart Wintricher Ohligsberg was a testament to that, as the wine was so tense that it nearly sizzled on the senses. I would place these in the mid-term aging department, with five years in the cellar as my best guess to when they’ll start to really show off.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">Then there are the Pradikat wines, Kabinett, Spatlese and Auslese. From my tastings the category of Kabinett shows beautifully in this vintage with amazing delicacy and sweet fruit flavors, which, when balanced with heightened minerality, (think Weiser-Künstler Wolfer Sonnenlay) creates a stunning display. It’s also worth mentioning that this specific wine has an alcohol level of only 7.5%, yet it’s impeccably balanced. </span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">In my opinion, It would be a huge mistake to pass on the 2016s. Not only are so many of them drinking amazingly well already, but many of them also have very bright futures ahead of them. Frankly, I can’t wait for my next taste. Below are some of my favorites to date.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><h3 style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: left;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">On to the tasting notes:</span></h3><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>Peter Lauer Ayler Kupp Stirn Fass 15 Feinherb</b></span><b style="white-space: pre-wrap;"> 2016</b><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"> - The nose was mineral-driven and intense with crushed limestone giving way to ripe peach, granny smith apple and fresh green herbs. On the palate it was medium-bodied and soft, backed but vibrant acidity which was nearly hidden beneath notes of ripe mango, lime and a spritz of penetrating, sweet, vibrant minerality. It finished on tart citrus tones and zesty acid with caking stone dust minerals on the senses. Very nice. (93 points)</span></p></span><span style="font-family: arial;"><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>Julian Haart Wintricher Ohligsberg Riesling Großes Gewächs</b></span><b style="white-space: pre-wrap;"> 2016</b><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"> - The nose was intense with crushed limestone, wild herbs, tart lime citrus, and spicy floral tones. On the palate, I found soft textures, yet with understated tension, as saline minerality, lime citrus and zesty acidity barreled their way across the senses. It finished long and tart with lime citrus and inner floral tones. (93 points)</span></p></span><span style="font-family: arial;"><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>Weingut Keller Riesling Westhofen -KR-</b></span><b style="white-space: pre-wrap;"> 2016</b><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"> - Of all of the '16s I've tried to date, this is the most tightly wound and in need of serious time to come around. Here I found an austere, almost Burgundian bouquet of white pit fruits, wild herbs, (I swear there's a hint of vanilla), almond skins and grapefruit. On the palate, it was focused like a saber, precise and intense with a tart apple, pineapple, lime and a mineral mix. The finish was long with saturating minerality, green citrus tones and cheek-puckering acidity. I'm not sure where this is going, but I can't wait to find out. (93 points) </span></p></span><span style="font-family: arial;"><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>Weiser-Künstler Enkircher Steffensberg Riesling</b></span><b style="white-space: pre-wrap;"> 2016</b><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"> - The nose was almost savory in it's display of floral undergrowth, saline-minerality, rosemary and lime zest, as notes of honeysuckle and ripe apple came forward with time in the glass. On the palate, I found a zesty expression, yet ultimately with soft textures, showing salty citrus, wild herbs, green apple and wonderfully balanced acidity. It finished on saturating minerality, with ripe apple and an almost oily texture coating on the senses. (92 points)</span></p></span><span style="font-family: arial;"><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>Weingut Keller Riesling von der Fels</b></span><b style="white-space: pre-wrap;"> 2016</b><b style="white-space: pre-wrap;"> </b><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">- The '16 Von der Fels was gorgeous, with an almost savory bouquet, displaying provencal herbs up front, followed by notes of green apple, lemon, and crushed seashell. On the palate, I found weighty textures, yet nearly imperceptible; the result of a mix of intense tart citrus, zippy acidity and saline-minerality with a spring of lemon zest and savory herbs that revisited toward the close. The finish was fresh with a lasting buzz of mineral-strewn citrus and minerals. The longer this wine sat in the glass, the more it seemed to grow. (92 points)</span></p></span><span style="font-family: arial;"><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>Peter Lauer Ayler Riesling Senior Faß 6</b></span><b style="white-space: pre-wrap;"> 2016</b><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"> - Here I found wonderful inner florals, with savory spice and lemon tones. It displayed great density for the vintage with rich textures offset by saline-minerality, ripe apple and zesty acidity. The finish was long with gorgeous inner floral tones and hints of citrus. (92 points)</span></p></span><span style="font-family: arial;"><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>Schäfer-Fröhlich Riesling Vulkangestein trocken 2016</b> - The nose was intense, savory, almost briny, yet so pleasurable, as notes of olive, seafoam and crushed stone were offset by green apple, melon and fresh herbs. On the palate, I found soft textures contrasted by stunning minerality and a zing of vibrant acidity with notes of tart apple, lemon rind and spice. It seemed to buzz of the finish, as zesty acidity lingering among citrus tinged minerals. (91 points)</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>Weiser-Künstler Riesling Wolfer Sonnenlay Kabinett</b></span><b style="white-space: pre-wrap;"> 2016</b><b style="white-space: pre-wrap;"> </b><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">- The bouquet alone is making me hungry with a savory, saline and mineral burst, followed by lemon rind, crushed seashells and yellow flowers. On the palate, I found a zesty expression of tart acid and lemon-lime intensity mixed with ripe apple and spices. It lingered long on the finish, with a tart mineral-driven display as saturating citrus tones slowly faded. (91 points)</span></p></span><span style="font-family: arial;"><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>Julian Haart Piesporter Schubertslay Riesling Kabinett</b></span><b style="white-space: pre-wrap;"> 2016</b><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"> - The nose showed intense minerality with crushed stone, lime, and sweet florals. On the palate, I found soft textures with peach, apple and hints of lemon, sweet inner florals and refreshing acidity. It finished clean with lasting ripe peach and hints of citrus rind. (91 points)</span></p></span><span style="font-family: arial;"><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>Weingut Keller Riesling Limestone</b></span><b style="white-space: pre-wrap;"> 2016</b><b style="white-space: pre-wrap;"> </b><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">- The nose showed intense lemon citrus with masses of crushed stone minerality, hints of mango, and savory herbs. On the palate, I found soft, weighty textures with a coating ripe lemon and green apple acidity that saturated the senses, forcing the mouth to water. It finished on cheek-puckering minerality, inner florals and citrus pith, yet through it all a note of ripe green apple resonated. This is so good that it’s almost impossible to put down. (91 points)</span></p></span><span style="font-family: arial;"><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>Dönnhoff Roxheimer Höllenpfad Riesling trocken 2016 </b>- The nose showed sweet florals, young peach, and a hint of lime. On the palate, I found soft textures with ripe lime citrus, minerals and exotic tropical tones. I wanted more energy in the finish, yet that’s splitting hairs and the Hollenpfad is highly enjoyable for current drinking. (90 points)</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><br /></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>Gunderloch Riesling Rothenberg Spatlese 2016</b> - The nose was wonderfully floral with airy minerals, hints of citrus and kiwi. On the palate, I found silky textures lifted by stunning acidity with notes of ripe apple and mango. It finished long with a sweet and sour display of stone fruit and tropical tones, all the while providing a sensation of energy and verve. Very nice. (92 points)</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>Schäfer-Fröhlich Riesling Felseneck Spätlese 2016</b> - The Felseneck Spatlese was gorgeous, with a display of crushed stone minerals with ripe apple, and sweet citrus tones. On the palate, I found a weighty-silky textures offset by vibrant acidity mixed with intense minerals and hints of green herbs before a mix of ripe pear, apple and peach washed over the senses. It finished long, layered and complex showing amazing balance and lingering acids. This is one for the cellar, and a standout of the vintage. (93 points)</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>Schloss Lieser Riesling Brauneberger Juffer Kabinett 2016</b> - The nose was incredibly fresh with minerals and notes of post-fermentation funk in the foreground, followed by dried flowers and ripe peaches. On the palate, I found soft textures with sweet and sour apple, floral peach and hints of spice. It finished long with notes of ripe apple, contrasted by a sour-patch lemony sensation of acid and sweetness. It’s more of a fun wine that a showstopper and really packs a punch. (90 points)</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>Schloss Lieser Riesling Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett 2016</b> - The nose was intense with a display of minerals, crushed stone and dried flowers up front, ripe apple and peach tones followed shortly after. On the palate, I found great textural depth with gobs of minerality to offset, leading to peach and tropical fruits with inner floral tones providing lift. It finished long and textural, as it’s ripe fruits seemed to slowly melt away from the senses. This is a Kabinett? I’d think more Spatlese--but I’m loving it all the same. (92 points)</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>Schloss Lieser Riesling Niederberg Helden Spätlese 2016</b> - The nose showed crushed stone minerality with with dusty florals and ripe peaches. On the palate I found silky textures with notes ripe peach, a zing of brisk acidity, lemony citrus, and nectarine. The finish was incredibly long with a hint of spiced orange and ripe stone fruits. (92 points)</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>Schloss Lieser Riesling Niederberg Helden Auslese 2016</b> - The nose was remarkably fresh and feminine, displaying sweet florals, peach and more peach with sweet cream. On the palate, I found silky textures with green apple, tropical citrus and caking minerality. The mix of minerals and acid gave this an almost dry sensation going into the long finish, where saturating citrus and tart apple tones prevailed. (93 points)</span></p><div><br /></div><div><i>* Originally published at The Cellar Table Blog</i></div></span></span>Eric Guidohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16780641005168603049noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8084232295286066032.post-48170136228472579922017-11-12T10:33:00.003-05:002021-11-27T11:42:12.045-05:00Aglianico del Vulture Returns to Collisioni<h3>
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<i style="font-weight: normal;">Article, Photos and Tasting Notes: Eric Guido</i></h4>
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When heading back to Collisioni this year, the number one question on my mind was if I would have a chance to conduct a focused tasting of Aglianico del Vulture. To the average consumer, this may not seem like the tasting that I would be looking forward to the most as I packed my bags for a stay in Barolo, but it was. Why? Because in my opinion, this is a region and a variety that is on the rise in Italy. One that deserves its day in the sun, but through the sins (or let’s just call it lazy winemaking and overproduction) of the past, it had its momentum slowed over the last ten years.
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Aglianico del Vulture is a DOC in Basilicata, a region of Southern Italy which borders Campania, and it is one of the few regions that has a coast on two sides of the boot. It is also well known for Monte Vulture, an extinct volcano, that gives its name to Aglianico del Vulture.
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First and foremost because of the variety, Aglianico, which is renowned for its use in creating Taurasi in Campania. Add to that the diverse volcanic soils throughout its five delimited growing zones, Maschito, Ripacandida, Barile, Ginestra, and Rionero. The climate of each of these is moderated by influences from two seas, a large range of altitudes and degrees of elevation–it all adds up to having the ingredients to make a great wine.
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I recall my early inquiries into Italian wine, and the writers of the time commenting on the potential of the Vulture–unfortunately, that potential was never realized. In some cases this was due to the lack of a champion, a producer that consumers and collectors could relate to, who would show them what was possible beyond the status quo. Don’t get me wrong, the region had its big names, such as Paternoster and their consistently high-scoring Don Anselmo. However, there was no face or name behind the brand that was out in the world and speaking to collectors. This may seem petty compared to the quality of what is in the bottle, but without a face behind the brand, it was just another Italian wine that most consumers didn’t understand.
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Today, the producers in Aglianico del Vulture are determined to change that. Much of this is the result of the new generation that is taking on more responsibility in the wineries, or taking over completely. The simple fact that these producers have put so much energy into a large showing of wines and personally attending Collisioni is a huge point in their corner. They have attended the event with ears and minds open to change, taking in all of the criticism and compliments that our board of wine writers, somms and professionals were eager to give.
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We spent the better part of a day tasting Aglianico and talking through the wines, and I can say with certainty that the bar has been raised yet again. Last year I found a mixed bag of some excellent, others inspired (but not quite there yet), and a few downright poor examples of Aglianico del Vulture–but this year, there was a marked change.
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First there is a new emphasis on place, which I’d like to see displayed more on each label, instead of the fantasy names that many producers choose to use. When you hear that a wine is made from grapes sourced from a vineyard in the crater of a volcano, it adds a story and urges you to search for the terroir in the glass. To think that a producer would choose not to market this information is beyond my comprehension–this is the kind of information that we wine lovers thrive on.
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Next is the cleaning up of the wineries, and a smaller dependence on old, old… old barrels that needed to be retired many years ago. There’s no question that most tasters preferred large, neutral barrels, but when that barrel is leaking and dirty–you end up with a dirty wine. Last year, I found a number of wines that suffered from this. This year, only one wine showed signs of old barrels.<br />
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Lastly, it’s the goal to establish Aglianico del Vulture as a competitor against Barolo, Brunello and Taurasi as one of Italy’s great wines of longevity. The truth is that the timing couldn’t be better, as we watch the prices of Barolo and Brunello soar–and Taurasi seems comfortable to rest on past laurels. If Aglianico del Vulture can refine and elevate its reputation in time–it may just end up as the new “Barolo of The South”.
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In the end, the producers of Aglianico del Vulture wanted to know about how they can begin to be profitable in the face of all of this change, and that will be the most difficult part. We were all asked to give them a dollar range that we each believed their wines could be worth, assuming they continued to move in the right direction. In nearly every case, these wines are currently undervalued. But first, Aglianico del Vulture needs to prove to consumers they they are worth the tariff.
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The day will come (possibly sooner than you think) that these wines will sell for twice, if not three times their current cost. My advice is to stock up now, because this is not only a region on the rise, it’s an organization of producers who are determined to prove themselves to the world.
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All of my tasting notes are below, both good and bad. As for my recommendations for those looking to take advantage of this region on the rise, look to Cantina del Notaio La Firma, Donato D’Angelo and Laluce to lead the way. It’s an exciting time to be following Aglianico del Vulture.<br />
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On to the tasting notes:</h4>
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<b>2012 Cantine del Notaio Aglianico del Vulture La Firma</b> – The nose was dark and layered, showing black cherry, plum, sweet violet tones, clove, dried orange, and dusty black earth. On the palate, I found silky textures offset by notes of plums and spice, lifting minerality and fine saturating tannin. The finish was firm and drying yet extremely long on violet-inflected black fruit. This is a wine to bury in the cellar. (<i>93 points</i>) <br />
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<b>2008 Azienda Agricola Michele Laluce Aglianico del Vulture Le Drude </b>– The nose showed crushed black fruits, savory spices, dried flowers, and undergrowth. On the palate, I found soft textures with stunning, vibrant acidity, dark red and black fruits, wild herbs, and savory spices. Tannin mounted throughout the experience, yet it’s already quite enjoyable, showing mature earth and charred meat tones. The finish was long, showing savory herbs, dried meats and spice. (<i>93 points</i>)<br />
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<b>2012 Donato d’Angelo Aglianico del Vulture</b> – The nose showed incredible depth with mineral-laced cherry, violet floral tones, dried orange peel and peppery herbs. On the palate, I found silky textures offset by fine tannin and balancing acidity, as dark red fruits began to saturate the senses and hints of spice and inner violet notes formed. It finished long on tart cherry and fine tannin, yet it maintained freshness and lift. In five to ten years, this should be just entering a long and lovely drinking window. (<i>93 points</i>) <br />
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<b>2011 Colli Cerentino Aglianico del Vulture Masqito</b> – The nose was beautiful yet dark, showing spiced cherry, plum, dried orange, and crushed violets. On the palate, I found tart black fruits, inner floral and herbal tones, with energizing acidity matched by fine tannin. It finished intensely structured on dark fruits, undergrowth and hints of ash. This needs time, but I’m already loving it. (<i>92 points</i>)<br />
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<b>2012 Azienda Agricola Michele Laluce Aglianico del Vulture Zimberno </b>– The nose was dark and earthy, showing mineral-tinged black fruits, volcanic ash, spicy herbs, and undergrowth. On the palate, I found soft textures counterbalancing tart black fruits and savory herbs. The ash and minerals from the bouquet seemed to translate perfectly onto the palate, adding a saline quality to the experience. It finished long with clenching tannin and tart black fruits. (<i>92 points</i>)<br />
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<b>2005 Tenuta le Querce Aglianico del Vulture Vigna della Corona </b>– The nose showed mature notes of undergrowth, crushed cherry, plum, dried flowers and dark earth. On the palate, I found soft textures, plum and crushed cherry, savory minerality and sous bois. On the finish, I found unbelievably youthful tannin with bitter black fruits and spice. (<i>91 points</i>)<br />
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<b>2013 Terra Dei Re Aglianico del Vulture Nocte </b>– The nose was dark and spicy with violet inflections, showing intense black cherry, cinnamon, anise, hints of undergrowth and ash. On the palate, I found soft textures with blackberry and plum fruit, savory spice, saturating fine tannin and balancing acidity. It finished structured yet with good energy and lingering spices. (<i>91 points</i>)<br />
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<b>2012 Cantina di Venosa Aglianico del Vulture Carato Venusio</b> – The nose showed depths of crushed black cherry, with notes of cedar, sweet herbs and minerals. On the palate, It displayed energizing acidity with silky textures, ripe cherry, sweet spices and herbs. Medium-tannin lingered on the palate, along with black cherry and undergrowth. (<i>91 points</i>)<br />
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<b>2012 Terre degli Svevi Aglianico del Vulture Re Manfredi </b>– The nose was lifted, showing violets, blackberry, tart plum and minerals. On the palate, I found lean textures with peppery black fruits and a combination of zesty acids and saturating tannin. It finished long and structured with concentrated tart black fruits coating the senses. (<i>90 points</i>)<br />
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<b>2015 Paternoster Aglianico del Vulture Synthesi </b>– The nose showed bright mineral-tinged black cherry, rich ginger spice, hints of violet florals and peppery herbs. On the palate, I found tart red fruits and lean tannin on a medium-to-light bodied frame. It finished tart, yet still quite fresh with lingering tannin and hints of blackberry fruit. This is a fresh style for Vulture, yet with a beautiful purity of fruit. (<i>90 points</i>)
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<b>2011 Tenuta I Gelsi Aglianico del Vulture </b>– The nose was intense with dark red and black fruits, both savory and sweet spices, and hints of minty herbs. On the palate, I found soft textures with a savory and almost-saline personality, showing tart cherry, plum and saturating minerality. Its firm tannin came on late, drying the fruit throughout the finish and leaving an impression of youthful austerity–bury some in the cellar for at least five to ten years. (<i>90 points</i>)<br />
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<b style="text-align: center;">2012 Tenuta I Gelsi Aglianico del Vulture </b><span style="text-align: center;">– The nose showed intense dark red fruits, anise, dried violets, moist ash and pepper. On the palate, I found silky textures on a medium-bodied frame offset by tart black and red berry fruits, spice and leather. It finished structured with saturating tannin, tart dark red fruits and black earth tones. (</span><i style="text-align: center;">89 points</i><span style="text-align: center;">)</span><br />
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<b>2013 Cantine del Notaio Aglianico del Vulture Il Repertorio </b>– The nose showed intense crushed raspberry with notes of clove, anise, and spice. On the palate, I found medium-bodied textures with intense dark fruit, giving way to wild herbs and peppery spice. It finished medium in length with fine tannin and savory spices lingering on. (<i>89 points</i>)<br />
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<b>2013 Cantine Strapellum Aglianico del Vulture Piano Regio </b>– The nose was holding back, yet with coaxing, it revealed dark red fruit, violets, clove, wild herbs and crushed stone. On the palate, I found lean textures with tart red and black fruits, dark soil tones and spice. It finished long with saturating tannin violet inflections and lingering tart red berry fruit. (<i>89 points</i>)
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<b>2008 Colli Cerentino Aglianico del Vulture Masqito </b>– The nose was dark and brooding, showing savory charred meats, black earth, cherry, herbs, and crushed stone minerality. On the palate, It was unexpectedly youthful and complex, displaying tart cherry, saline-minerality, and spice. The finish was long with saturating gruff tannin that dried the fruit despite the wine’s age, making me wonder if the fruit can hold up to them over time. (<i>88 points</i>)<br />
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<b>2011 Cantine Strapellum Aglianico del Vulture Nibbio Grigio </b>– The nose was fresh and floral with light blackberry, minerals and spice. On the palate, I found soft textures with a mix of red and black fruit, yet this lacked persistence, as fine tannin saturated the senses. It finished structured yet still fresh with medium length. (<i>88 points</i>)
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<b>2015 Cantina di Venosa Aglianico del Vulture Verbo</b> – The nose was perfumed with spicy red florals and notes of crushed raspberry, orange peel, and crushed stone. On the palate, I found vibrant red fruit with juicy acidity and hints of spice. It finished with zesty red berries and a coating of fine tannin. This may be simple, but it’s undeniably enjoyable today. (<i>87 points</i>)<br />
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<b>2013 Terra Dei Re Aglianico del Vulture Vultur </b>– The nose showed crushed violets, black fruits, ash, fall leaves, and peppery herbs. On the palate, I found lean textures with herbal black fruits and saturating tannin. It finished on drying tannin and tart red fruits. (<i>87 points</i>)
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<b>2011 Terre degli Svevi Aglianico del Vulture Re Manfredi Vigneto Serpara </b>– The nose was brooding and dark with notes of plum, undergrowth, ash, chalk dust, and sweet violets. On the palate, I found silky textures with concentrated ripe black fruits, peppery herbs and spice. Hints of pepper lingered along with earthy undergrowth and bitter herbs. I can’t help but feel like part of its profile is the result of old (unclean?) barrels. (<i>86 points</i>)<br />
<br />Eric Guidohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16780641005168603049noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8084232295286066032.post-60052092128170385692017-11-02T16:17:00.155-04:002021-12-27T15:45:40.380-05:00The Evolution of Flaccianello: A Vertical History<h3 style="text-align: left;"> <span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: 700; white-space: pre-wrap;">A 30 Year Retrospective</span></h3><span id="docs-internal-guid-8a99a9d6-7fff-e7bb-c7d9-e55ad726fce2"><i>By Eric Guido</i></span><div><span><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Fontodi has been on my short list of Italy’s top producers for quite some time now, starting with my first taste of the 1999 Vigna del Sorbo back in 2011. Having tasted younger vintages prior to that, I simply didn’t understand that they could mature into such majestic wines of importance. That one taste put me on the path to exploring deeper and trying to understand what it was about Fontodi that set them apart.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">I came to realize that it was a combination, not just of terroir, but also of the forward-thinking--constantly evolving--owner and winemaker, Giovanni Manetti.</span></p><br /><h3 style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The History</span></h3><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Di_uokz3aiA/YaVQZJtm4NI/AAAAAAAAkQM/xY7tyab2Sycb9AgGFjEPB-938Wt9Lbf5ACNcBGAsYHQ/s1825/Giovanni_Manetti.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1825" data-original-width="1225" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Di_uokz3aiA/YaVQZJtm4NI/AAAAAAAAkQM/xY7tyab2Sycb9AgGFjEPB-938Wt9Lbf5ACNcBGAsYHQ/s320/Giovanni_Manetti.jpg" width="215" /></a></div>With a long history in Tuscany, known for their manufacturing of terracotta amphora, the Manetti family decided to enter the wine business in 1968 when they took ownership of the Fontodi estate and vineyards in Panzano. The location was perfect, nestled in the amphitheatre-shaped “Conca d’Oro” (the golden shell), at high altitudes with calcar--clay schist soils. However, bound at the time by the rules of the Chianti Classico consortium, they produced a selection of wines that were very different from today’s portfolio. The biggest change came with Giovanni Manetti, who took the reins of the winery in 1980. It was his passion for Sangiovese which drove him to experiment and finally arrive at the elevated position which Fontodi enjoys today. </span><p></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">You see, even going as far back as the 1985 vintage, Giovanni wanted to show the world that a 100% expression of Sangiovese could produce a world-class wine. It’s because of this that he created the highly-regarded Super Tuscan, Flaccianello. However, this success wasn’t gained overnight, and is very much the result of Giovanni’s relentless work to perfect Flaccianllo’s blend and aging regimen.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The Evolution </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YRvGrSHp8Pk/YaVQQcVSMpI/AAAAAAAAkQI/L7Wuu_sIJ94BO6USiQC-nyB4lXAuq-VCQCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Fontodi_Flaccianello_2014.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1439" data-original-width="2048" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YRvGrSHp8Pk/YaVQQcVSMpI/AAAAAAAAkQI/L7Wuu_sIJ94BO6USiQC-nyB4lXAuq-VCQCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/Fontodi_Flaccianello_2014.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>The original source of fruit was a single-vineyard of the same name, “Flaccianello della Pieve", until the 2001 vintage when the decision was made to create a blend of the estate’s best fruit. This was largely the result of acquisitions that Giovanni made of choice parcels within the Pecille district of Panzano. Also, going back to 1985, Flaccianello was aged only one year in barrel (50% new) until the 1990 vintage. Since that time, the aging has been slowly extended, with today’s vintages seeing up to 100% new oak in Troncais and Allier barrels for 24 months. However, when you put your nose to the glass, new oak is the first thing that comes to mind.<p></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Having recently tasted through eleven vintages spanning 30 years, I was not only impressed by the evolution of Flaccianello, but also by how much I enjoyed every stage of that evolution. For one thing, I had always thought of this an an Internationally-styled wine, due to the new oak, yet when tasting on this day, the prominence of Sangiovese came through, especially as the wine enters it’s fifth and sixth year in bottle. What’s more, Giovanni remains determined to continue the evolution of his portfolio, and in the case of Flaccianello, that means adding a refreshing quality to the young wines.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">This was a remarkable tasting with a number of killer vintages, and the best part is that many of these wines can still be found.</span></p><br /><h3 style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">On to the tasting notes</span></h3><div><span><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">2016 Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> - </span><span>The 2016 Flaccianello della Pieve is alluringly dark, spicy and floral, with crushed stone, giving way to blackberry, savory meats, animal tones and wild herbs. Here I'm finding silky textures offset by zesty acidity with saturating spices and mineral-infused dark fruits cascading across the palate in a wonderfully fresh expression, before fine tannins settled in. The finish is long, almost salty and savory with tart blackberry and minerals soaking the senses with grippy tannins. Wow, a totally different expression of young Flaccianello, and I like it a lot. In fact, I’m noticing that Flaccianello has been impressing me a bit more than Vigna del Sorbo in recent vintages. 2024-2038 (97 points)</span></div><div><span><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; font-weight: 700; white-space: pre-wrap;">2015 </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; font-weight: 700; white-space: pre-wrap;"> - </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; white-space: pre-wrap;">T</span>he 2015 Flaccianello della Pieve is intense, showing dark red fruits and crushed plums, with exotic spices, sweet grilled herbs and dried flowers. This is wonderfully soft on the palate, as it envelopes the senses with zesty cherry, crushed blackberry, sweet and savory spices, and minerals, all kept in check by a mix of brisk acids and fine tannin. It finishes long and spicy with saturating minerality and youthful, slightly angular tannin. I can only imagine what this will mature into, but I’m very excited to find out. I have officially upgraded my score to 96 points. 2022-2032 (96 points)</div><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">2014 </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; font-weight: 700; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">- The 2014 </span>Flaccianello della Pieve <span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">remains one of the prettiest examples I’ve ever seen of Flaccianello. Here I'm finding a dark bouquet with dried black cherries, hints of sandalwood, spice and savory herbs. On the palate, it displays lean yet focused red berry fruit, a mix of cherry and raspberry, with silky textures giving way to inner floral tones and spice in a pretty and lifted expression. The finish is medium in length and a bit lighter than expected with a mix of tart red fruit and minerals. 2021-2028 (94 points)</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">2013 </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; font-weight: 700; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">- The bouquet of the 2013 Flaccianello della Pieve is intense, with spicy, ripe black cherry, crushed stone, dusty spice and sweet florals. On the palate, you'd expect a bruiser, but instead this treats you to the silkiest of textures with tart cherry-blackberry fruit, balsamic tones and savory herbs. Grippy tannins linger long into the finish, along with dark red fruits, which seemed to go on and on. That is an absolutely beautiful showing. 2021-2033 (95 points)</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">2010 </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; font-weight: 700; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">- The 2010 Flaccianello della Pieve is absolutely gorgeous with a nose with dark red berries, spice box, dried herbs, balsamic tones and black earth. It nearly coats the glass with dark red, verging on purple viscosity. This is undeniably elegant, silky and refined, yet vibrant too, as youthfully lean red berry fruit is offset by brisk acidity and fine tannin. The finish is persistent and structured as the fruit leans more to the black spectrum, joined by hints of savory herbs and minerals. This is one for the ages. 2022-2036 (96 points)</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">2007 </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; font-weight: 700; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">- The 2007 Flaccianello della Pieve shows crushed cherry, dusty florals and undergrowth in a performance that seems more mature to me than expected. Here I'm finding silky textures complemented by lifting acidity with mature red fruits, hints of cedar and spice. The finish is medium in length, showing light tannins, dried cherry, undergrowth and floral tones. I can't tell if this showing is more about the wine or this specific bottle, but I'll be on the lookout to taste the 2007 again soon. 2021-2027 (92 points)</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">2006 </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; font-weight: 700; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">- The 2006 Flaccianello della Pieve is a dark and beautiful beast, with ripe black cherry, dark wood tones, plum, sweet florals and spice, as it seems to gain richness the longer it spend in the glass. This is a soft and silky expression with ripe black fruit in the foreground, leading to spices and sweet herbs. The finish is long with fine tannin coating the senses, yet never overwhelming, due to a gorgeous display of mint, orange peel and sweet herbs. Anyone with the 2006 in their cellar should be quite happy with what’s in store for them down the road. 2021-2036 (97 points)</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">2004 </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; font-weight: 700; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">- The 2004 </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; white-space: pre-wrap;">Flaccianello della Pieve wafts up with </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">dark red fruits complemented by nuances of undergrowth, minerals and olive tones, which seem a bit more wood inflected than terroir. On the palate, soft textures give way to tart black fruits with grainy tannins and a recurrence of briny olive. The finish is long and grippy with hints of dark red fruit and spice. It appears to me that the wood used in 2004 may be overpowering the fruit of the vintage, but only time will tell. 2021-2026 (92 points)</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1999 </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; font-weight: 700; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">- The 1999 <span style="font-size: 14.6667px;">Flaccianello della Pieve i</span>s simply gorgeous, even hauntingly beautiful, displaying rich black cherry, plum, sweet dried spices and herbs. Here I'm find soft, silky textures, yet it's still so youthful for its age as vibrant acidity provides lift. Dark red fruits, sweet inner florals and herbs add a savory edge, giving way to fine tannin in the onset of resolution. The finish is long with black cherry, minerals and spice. It was hard not to drink this wine, instead of taste, which I hope I will one day experience. What a beautiful Flaccianello. 2021-2029 (96 points)</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1995 </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; font-weight: 700; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">- The 1995 </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; white-space: pre-wrap;">Flaccianello della Pieve shows</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;"> crushed black cherry, brown spices, sweet herbs and a hint of olive. This boasts soft textures with a mix of red and black fruits, and mature tannin. There is something missing on the mid-palate, yet this is beautiful for a 25 year-old wine. It finishes with medium length, residual acids and tart blacks fruits. Drink (91 points)</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1986 </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; font-weight: 700; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">- The nose on the 1986 </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; white-space: pre-wrap;">Flaccianello della Pieve is</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;"> beautiful in its maturity, showing dusty earth, savory sous bois, cedar, and dried herbs. It displays wonderfully soft textures, with dark-dried red berries, minerals, inner florals and a hint of iodine, and then tapers off with medium length, brisk residual acids and minerals that linger on. Drink (93 points)</span></p><br /><h3 style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Resources</span></h3><div><br /></div><div>Originally published at The Cellar Table Blog</div><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Article, Tasting Notes and event photos by: Eric Guido</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Visit the official <a href="http://www.fontodi.com/" target="_blank">Fontodi Website</a></span></p><div><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></div></div>Eric Guidohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16780641005168603049noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8084232295286066032.post-2229182978821052482017-10-29T10:22:00.000-04:002017-10-29T10:22:05.888-04:001990 Barolo & Barbaresco Retrospective<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The Prelude to The Modern Vintage</h3>
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Six years ago, a group of friends and collectors–myself included–assembled a 1990 Barolo retrospective tasting. I honestly didn’t know what to expect at the time because, only six years ago, the average Barolo collector looked down on the 1990 vintage, disregarding it as a warm, ripe year that wouldn’t deliver wines that could mature well in the cellar–boy, were we wrong.<br />
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The results of our tasting were positive nearly across the board, with only one wine showing poor development and with a few of them verging on epic. When the time came for me to write up <a href="http://www.ericguido.com/2011/03/1990-barolo-retrospective.html" target="_blank"><b>my review</b></a> and to begin to market it to my community of readers, I was met by a number of negative responses. Some people even went as far as calling my opinions incorrect, completely convinced that these wines couldn’t possibly be as good as I said. With time though, opinions began to change as more and more collectors re-tasted the wines themselves and found something they didn’t expect–something they liked a lot.
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My opinion was that 1990 wasn’t a poor vintage. It was a ripe vintage, of that there is no doubt, but the wines maintained a freshness and liveliness through balanced acidity, and a purity of ripe fruit that is hard to resist. I mused that they would continue to age beautifully for many years in the cellar.
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That brings us to September 27th at the <a href="https://www.northendgrillnyc.com/" target="_blank">North End Grill</a><br />
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The 1990 vintage in Barolo and Barbaresco started with an unusually turbulent winter, as weather patterns fluctuated between unusually cold to unusually warm through April. Yet the bigger issue was the lack of precipitation. The region was graced with neither rain nor snow until April, and warm weather that lasted into May. The flowering and crop set was variable across the region, yet, in the end, most producers found the set to be generous. With June came the lasting heat, which remained through most of the summer and sped the maturation of fruit. However, with September the weather became much more seasonal, and although the harvest was early by 10-15 days, it was done under optimal conditions. The fear was that the fruit lacked the necessary time on the vine to develop depth and ripe tannin.
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Some people immediately disregarded the vintage as ripe and not worthy of the cellar. The funny part is that by today’s standards, it would have been considered a much better year.
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From the start, the 1990s drank beautifully and continued to drink well for a decade. Many people thought of it as a restaurant vintage, meaning that a sommelier could buy the wines and open them for their customers upon arrival. Vintages that we might say the same for in the recent past include 2011, 2009, 2007 and 2003. This isn’t the best company to keep in a Barolo collector’s opinion, but 1990 has something very different from these vintages–balance.
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There are many theories about why wines age in a positive manner, and with Barolo most people associate it with tannin alone. However, in the time that I’ve been collecting wine, the theory that I’ve come to believe more than any other is that a wine matures on its balance. Fruit, acid and tannin in balance will allow a wine to go the long haul. In my opinion, if the conditions of the 1990 vintage were repeated today, then the wines would have been much better-received in their youth. I see it as a prelude to our modern vintages.
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When tasting through the 1990s on our table, balance was the repeating theme in nearly all of them. The fruit was ripe on the nose and palate, only verging on tart in some cases, and they were all carried gracefully across the senses by vibrant acidity. The tannin lurked in the background, only showing itself early in a small number of wines. However, in most of them, their tannin could be perceived only on the tail end of the finish. When you consider that these are 27 year-old wines, then you would expect the tannins to be taking a back seat.
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The 1990s we tasted are defined by their consistency and the wide drinking window that they’ve enjoyed. Six years ago, they were gorgeous–maybe coming across as a touch riper. Today they are just as beautiful, a bit more refined, and in no danger of decline.
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If you can find 1990 Barolo or Barbaresco from your favorite producer that has been well stored, then my advice is to buy it and enjoy.
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On to the tasting notes:
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1st Flight: Paolo Scavino Barolo
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<b>Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric del Fiasc 1990 </b>– The ‘90 Bric del Fiasc provided a fantastic start to our tasting, being one of the first times that I’ve tasted this wine and found the development of more tertiary aromas and flavors. The nose was gorgeous, displaying crushed fall leaves, tar and undergrowth up front, as notes of black cherry, brown sugar and a hint of iodine developed in the glass. On the palate, I found silky textures offset by zesty acidity with mineral-drenched tart cherry fruit that saturated the senses. It finished long on dark red fruits, undergrowth and iron-borne minerality. (<i>94 points</i>)
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<b>Paolo Scavino Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata 1990 </b>– Upon serving, the ‘90 Rocche dell’Annunziata was much warmer (temperature-wise) than the Bric del Fiasc, which hurt its initial performance, but as the evening wore on, I was able to taste it again on its own with much better results. The nose was hauntingly dark and intense with baked cherries, exotic spice, marine-minerality and hints of sweet herbs. On the palate, I found medium-bodied textures yet still lighter than I expected, with dried black cherry and strawberry fruits. Hints of tobacco, sweet herbs and inner florals lingered on the palate long into the finish, with an earthy-mineral tinge. (<i>91 points</i>)
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2nd Flight: Modern Leanings
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<b>Azienda Bricco Rocche (Ceretto) Barolo Brunate 1990 </b>– The bouquet was gorgeous with spicy ripe cherry, cigar box, hints of orange citrus, and menthol. It entered juicy on the palate, with pretty ripe cherry and sweet spice tones, yet falling off toward the mid-palate, and ultimately becoming muddled with an odd note of rotten fruit. It finished with medium-length and hints of fine tannin, but it appears that the Ceretto Brunate may have already seen its day in the sun. (<i>90 points</i>)
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<b>Elio Altare Barolo Vigneto Arborina 1990</b> – The nose was dark and intense, showing black earth, minerals, hauntingly dark floral tones, dried black cherry, cedar, and savory herbs. On the palate, I found unbelievable silky textures and medium-to-full bodied weight, with vibrant red berry fruits, spices, minerals and vibrant acidity that added great energy to the mix. It was so easy to like that you could easily find yourself drinking it instead of tasting. The finish was long with a display of dark red fruit, saturating sweet spice, tobacco and dried roses. (<i>93 points</i>)
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<b>Luciano Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis 1990 </b>– The ‘90 Cannubi Boschis was at first dark and brooding in the glass, taking time to unfurl, yet once it did–what a beautiful display it was. Here I found a dark and meaty bouquet with minty herbs and bright cherry adding freshness. As it sat in the glass, notes of dusty spice and dried rose appeared, yet there remained a note of beef blood, which grounded this in the earth. It was silky on the palate, yet structured and still youthful, showing tart cherry, orange peel and tobacco. The finish was long and saturating to the senses, with lively tannin and dried red berry tones. (<i>96 points</i>)
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<br />3rd Flight: Serralunga and Monforte
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<b>Gaja Barolo Sperss 1990</b> – The ‘90 Sperss was remarkably fresh for both the vintage and what I expected from the wine. Here I found a gorgeous bouquet of dried violets offset by dark earth, leather, red licorice, dusty old spice box and crushed stone. On the palate, soft textures were complemented by an undercurrent of ripe dark red fruits, with hints of dried citrus, minerals and brisk-energizing acidity. It finished long and floral with lingering hints of undergrowth, spice and dried red berry fruit. (<i>97 points</i>)
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<b>Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia 1990 </b>– The nose displayed an overwhelming mineral, metal and sawdust note, lacking in fruit but also not showing any aromas that I associate with cork. On the palate, it was one dimensional, showing dark red fruit but without any energy or drive. I’m sure this was an off bottle, but I’m not exactly sure of how it arrived at such an odd state. I declined scoring it as a result. (<i>NA</i>)
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<b>Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Riserva Granbussia 1990</b> – This is further evidence that when an Aldo Conterno Barolo is on, that there is little else that can compare. The ‘90 Granbussia was Monforte-fruit personified. It was dark, viral, and brooding, with dried black cherry giving way to iron-like minerality, dusty florals and earth. On the palate, it was silky but with an underlying current of dark tannic structure and mineral earth tones, as black fruit saturated the senses. It was powerful and still tense, showing further potential for the cellar as it finished long on dried berries and tobacco. (<i>94 points</i>)
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4th Flight: Barbaresco
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<b>Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Gallina di Neive 1990 </b>– The bouquet was gorgeous with sweet florals and exotic spices, followed by dried strawberry, tobacco and hints of floral undergrowth. On the palate, I found a silky expression made vibrant through juicy acidity with mineral coated dark red fruits, and spices. It finished long and floral with hints of sweet herbs, lasting minerality and mouthwatering acidity. It’s amazing how juicy and fresh this 27 year-old barbaresco is, as well as how Giacosa could create so many consistently beautiful wines across so many vineyards and vintages. (<i>95 points</i>)
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<b>Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Pora 1990</b> – The Produttori Pora Riserva was so perfectly balanced and mature on this evening, showing a floral bouquet, yet rich with dried cherry, hints of olive, minerals and undergrowth. On the palate, I found saturating deep red berry fruit tones with zesty acidity providing freshness, and earth and tobacco adding depth. The finish was long and still lightly structured, and dried cherry and strawberry seemed to slowly melt from the senses. (<i>94 points</i>)
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<b>Gaja Barbaresco Costa Russi 1990</b> -The Costa Russi was a model of purity and nebbiolo refinement on the nose, as notes of pine and mint rose up from the glass, joined by hints of tar, dried rose, strawberry, potpourri and minerals. On the palate, I found zesty textures with nearly imperceptible weight, as the wine seemed to hover on the senses with lively notes of tart red berry, spice, citrus and fresh herbs. It’s amazing how youthful this felt, yet also perfectly mature, as it finished on dried berries, hints of cedar and inner floral tones. (<i>93 points</i>)
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Also tasted in April 2017
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<b>Vietti Barolo Rocche 1990</b> – The ’90 Vietti Rocche is showing beautifully tonight. The bouquet was gorgeous and intense, with black cherry, mint, tobacco, sweet spice, dried flowers, and hints of undergrowth. On the palate, I found silky textures with a kick of acidity adding bite, while crunchy tannin added grip. Tart black cherry, dried citrus, wild herbs, and intense minerality saturated the senses. It finished fresh with biting acids and tannin, but oh so good and drinking wonderfully. (<i>95 points</i>)<br />
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Article, Photos and Tasting Notes by: <a href="http://www.theviptable.net/biography.html" target="_blank">Eric Guido</a><br />
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For more impressions on our evening, visit: <a href="https://winewithoutnumbers.blogspot.com/2017/10/1990-nebbiolo.html" target="_blank">Wine Without Numbers</a><br />
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<br />Eric Guidohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16780641005168603049noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8084232295286066032.post-59404763047435110872017-05-12T10:42:00.000-04:002017-05-12T10:42:22.143-04:00The Queen to Piedmont's King; Time To Talk Barbaresco<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I often talk about Barolo, and I am quick to add in a Barbaresco note or bottle to a tasting whenever I see fit. However, what you will hardly ever see in these pages is a tasting centered around Barbaresco. The reason for this, much like the reason why Barolo is more well-known than Barbaresco, is that as collectors get to know the region, there has always been a certain bias against Barbaresco, placing Barolo in their minds as the better wine. First, let’s put that idea out of our heads, because it simply isn’t true, but unfortunately it took me many years of tasting–and something of a paradigm shift–to realize it.
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The change started over many years of tasting, as once in awhile we would throw a Barbaresco into a blind Barolo lineup. It didn’t take long to realize that these wines were finishing with top ranks. Keep in mind that I’m not just talking about Gaja and Bruno Giacosa. Produttori del Barbaresco and their portfolio of Riserva wines have long been the Barolo collectors’ secret love affair with Barbaresco, and they are perfect examples of how affordable a great Barbaresco can be and how well they can age.
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What we’ve also seen in the last decade is an awakening of producers in the region. Some producers who had contributed their grapes to the Produttori parted ways to start their own labels and perfect a unique style, while others suddenly realized that the ground beneath their feet was worth showcasing, and they decided to clean up their cellars or take new oak out of the picture. Cigliuti, Paitin and Sottimano quickly come to mind as a new breed of winemaker that is changing what people think about the region.
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Speaking of producers, it also pays to note that compared to Barolo, Barbaresco is more dominated by small family-run wineries (many of which contribute to the Produttori del Barbaresco), and these families produce only a small amount of wine. What this means for collectors is that we see much less Barbaresco in the market, giving Barolo yet another leg up and much more facetime with consumers.
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There is one other important point, and that is how the wines mature. For the longest time, Barbaresco was thought of as a softer version of Barolo, and one that couldn’t age as well. While I will agree that the tannins in Barbaresco generally require less time to mature than the average Barolo, the fact is that they can age just as well. Much of this has to do with terroir, which shares many similarities with Barolo but also a few drastic differences. The soils in both regions are mainly calcareous marls, yet in general, the soils of Barbaresco are richer in nutrients, and in some locations, they contain deposits of sand. There’s also the moderating effect of the Tanaro river, which is one of the key elements thought to be responsible for the superior wines produced by Gaja, whose vineyards benefit directly from the river’s warming breezes by day and cooling breezes at night. Lastly, there’s the required aging regimen in wood, 18 months for Barolo versus 12 months for Barbaresco, yet you’ll find many of the region’s producers aging their top wines longer.
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What it all comes down to is that Barbaresco is not just worth a Barolo lover’s attention, it should be required, and anyone who ignores these wines is simply doing themselves an injustice. Barbaresco provides all of the classic flavor and aromatic profiles that we love from Nebbiolo, often maturing a little earlier, but also lasting in the cellar for decades–and all of this at what is often a better price.
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This brings us to our most recent tasting at RiverPark in New York City. The theme was simply Barbaresco, but the producers were the top names of the region. Produttori del Barbaresco, Gaja, Bruno Giacosa and Roagna all filled the table. As is usually the case with this group (a bunch of Barolo lovers who met and organized on Antonio Galloni’s Vinous forums), the big gun always come out. The best part is that it’s never about showboating or trying to one-up each other; with this group it’s simply about sharing great wine with good friends.
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On to the Tasting Notes:
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Our first flight was originally intended to be a showcase of older wines, but due to a corked bottle of ‘65 Cappellano, it turned out to be more of a <b>Produttori del Barbaresco flight</b>. What is there to say? This was the flight for the true lover of mature Nebbiolo. Both bottles were completely mature, and unfortunately the Ovello was a bit over the hill (possibly not a perfect bottle). With that said, I still enjoyed it. As for the ‘67 Pora, it showed all the hallmarks of perfect maturity and an unexpected richness and meatiness that made it the wine of the flight. I simply love mature Barbaresco.
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<b>1967 Produttori del Barbaresco Pora Riserva Speciale</b> – At first, the nose was dark, damp and almost moldy, yet the ‘67 Pora came around quickly in the glass to reveal dried flowers, strawberry, hints of mint, forest floor and minerals. On the palate, it displayed a dark and meaty character with savory, almost salty minerality, dark red fruits and hints of smoke. It finished on dried berries and plum, with a touch of light tannin. (<i>93 points</i>)
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<b>1971 Produttori del Barbaresco Ovello</b> – The ‘71 Ovello was completely resolved and on the decline, yet I still found something to like with its bouquet of dried roses, cinnamon, orange peel, and amaro. On the palate, I found light textures with hints of strawberry and a zing of acidity, which added much-needed liveliness. It finished short on dried fruit and flowers. (<i>NA</i>)
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The <b>Gaja Flight</b> was a real treat. The best part about it was to see just how enjoyable the entry-level Gaja Barbaresco can perform and mature. No Gaja is ever cheap, but it is a breath of fresh air to see the most affordable wine showing this well with age. Both ‘82s were gorgeous, and you could sense the stamp of the producer between the two of them. However, in the end, the Costa Russi simply had a depth that the ‘82 normale couldn’t touch. That said, I’d take either wine any day of the week. Then there was the ‘85, which was so pure and wonderfully drinkable in its maturity that it stopped me in my tracks. Lastly, the ‘89, one of my top three wines of the night, was simply gorgeous. I strongly urge readers to pay attention to these wines when they show up in the market, because they represent great relative value.
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<b>1982 Gaja Barbaresco </b>– Tasting this next to the ‘82 Costa Russi was a fantastic experience, as the vintage and Gaja style was evident between the two of them. Granted, once I moved on to the Costa Russi, it was hard to come back, but I absolutely adored this wine all the same. The nose was dark and rich with sweet herbs, moist soil and minerals. On the palate, I found silky textures lifted by vibrant acidity, as pure red fruits gave way to savory mineral tones. It finished on dried cherry, red florals and a bite of lively acidity. (<i>92 points</i>)
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<b>1982 Gaja Barbaresco Costa Russi</b> – The Costa Russi took everything I loved about the ‘82 Barbaresco tasted next it and took it up a notch. Here I found masses of depth in its dark, rich red fruits with sweet spices, undergrowth, and minerals. On the palate, I found silky, almost chewy textures contrasted by zesty acidity with notes of black cherry and dark chocolate, which slowly morphed into a savory expression of dried inner florals, minerals and earth. The finish was wonderfully long and vibrant with spicy sweetness and dried strawberry. (<i>95 points</i>)
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<b>1985 Gaja Barbaresco </b>– What a beautiful and pure expression of Barbaresco! The ‘85 was in a perfect place on this night. The bouquet was a mix of crushed cherry and strawberry with hints of sweet tea leafs and herbs. With time, a savory mineral note came forward, adding even more depth. On the palate, I found a vibrant and fresh expression with zesty acidity adding verve to its dried cherry fruits. Inner florals and earth tones lingered through the finish, along with dried wild berries. (<i>93 points</i>)
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<b>1989 Gaja Barbaresco</b> – Showing all of the hallmarks of this great vintage–dark, deep and still reticent–there’s still so much going on beneath the surface. The ‘89 Barbaresco displayed the most inviting bouquet of pine nettles, menthol, sweet herbs, spicy dark red fruits, and brown spice. On the palate, I found deep silky textures with dark red fruits, iron-born minerality, tea leafs, brisk acidity and lingering fine tannin. It finished firm and youthful with dark red fruits, sweet herbs, and hints of tobacco. I can imagine that another five years will put this in a perfect place for drinking. (<i>96 points</i>)
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The <b>Bruno Giacosa flight </b>was, as always, highly anticipated and quite a revelation. I must note that I added my note for the 1970 Santo Stefano, which was not at this original tasting, but was tasted only days later with the same preparation as all of our other bottles. In this flight, I witnessed the feminine elegance of Santo Stefano first-hand. The ‘98 was a gorgeous wine and, in the end, the wine of the night for me. To be able to taste the ‘70 only days later and revel in the similarities of the two of them was also a great opportunity.
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We also had the controversial ‘11 Asili, which I found to be a good wine, but far from what I’d expect from a Giacosa Barbaresco. Lastly, the 2000 Asili, a wine that I believe needs more time to truly show its virtues. In the end, this was a tremendous flight.
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<b>1970 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano</b> – What a treat. The nose on the ’70 Santo Stefano was much richer and darker than you’d expect, with smoky sweet herbs, dried strawberry, exotic spice, orange peel, and crushed flowers. On the palate, I found lifted, feminine textures with brisk acidity enlivening mineral-infused dried cherry with wonderful inner sweetness. It was shorter than I hoped, but how can you hold that against this 47 year-old wine–it is simply stunning. (<i>94 points</i>)
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<b>1998 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano Riserva</b> – Wow… simply wow. The ’98 Santo Stefano is pure beauty, grace and elegance on this night. Lifted and feminine with a complex mixture of dusty spice, dried flowers, minerals and a dark and savory hint of undergrowth. On the palate, it was soft and caressing to the senses with a stunning mix of brisk acidity and saturating red berry fruit. Fine tannin lingered on the finish, but this wine is so enjoyable already, as the overall expression is fresh, lifted and spicy. (<i>97 points</i>)
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<b>2000 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili Riserva</b> – The nose was dark and rich with earth tones offset by brown spice, as crushed strawberry and rosy floral tones mingled. On the palate, I found velvety textures lifted by balanced acidity with notes of dried black cherry, ripe strawberry and crunchy minerals, yet it lacked the depth of the best vintages. The finish showed a light coating of fine tannin with remnants of dark fruit lingering. (<i>94 points</i>)
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<b>2011 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili Riserva </b>– The nose was intense, yet seeming more new world than old, showing sweet spices and a toasty quality to its cherry and raspberry fruit. On the palate, I found textures of weighty velvet ushering in floral-tinged red fruits and hints of dried orange with tannins that were almost completely enveloped by its fruit. The finish was long, with dark fruits lingering along with a coating of fine tannin. Others at the same tasting enjoyed this more than I did, and in some cases they have more experience with the wines. Personally, it’s hard for me to imagine the ‘11 maturing into a great Giacosa Red Label. (<i>92 points</i>)
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The <b>Roagna flight </b>was most memorable for just how different yet equally enjoyable the ‘96 Paje was from the ‘96 Crichët Pajé (made from vines at the crest of the Pajé cru with extended time in barrel and late release). From the collector’s and wine lover’s standpoint, I couldn’t be happier about this, as the former costs a quarter of the price of Crichët Pajé. However, neither wine was better; instead they were simply completely different. Numerically, I scored them nearly the same, but in the end I had only a small preference for the Crichët Pajé, and mainly because it possessed more richness, while the straight Pajé was all about energy.
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<b>1996 Roagna Barbaresco Pajé</b> – This was an outstanding showing for the ‘96 Pajé, especially served next to the Crichët Pajé of the same year. The nose showed sweet herbs, savory earth tones, smoke, brown spices and crushed strawberry. On the palate, I found zesty, grippy, energizing textures with vibrant acidity giving way to pure red fruits, minerals and hints of orange peel. It finished long, with dried berries and hints of tannin, yet energetic and spicy. (<i>94 points</i>)
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<b>1996 Roagna Barbaresco Crichët Pajé </b>– Much more approachable than I would have expected, the ‘96 Crichët Pajé showed a bouquet of dried roses, sweet crushed berries, moist soil, exotic spices, and dark wood tones. On the palate, I found silky textures offset by zesty acidity with tart red fruits, exotic spice and mineral tones. It finished long with saturating red fruits and youthful tannin, but much less than I would have expected. It was gorgeous, but served next to the ‘96 Pajé, it shows the aging regiment over the vibrant fruit. (<i>95 points</i>)
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<i>Article, Tasting Notes, and Photos by: <a href="https://www.linkedin.com/in/ericguido/" target="_blank">Eric Guido</a></i><br />
<br />Eric Guidohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16780641005168603049noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8084232295286066032.post-81357336398547830772017-02-14T17:56:00.000-05:002017-02-14T17:55:59.941-05:00Was It Worth All The Hype? 2013 Barolo<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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For the last two weeks NYC has been honored to host the who’s who of Piedmont for Antonio Galloni’s La Festa del Barolo, and with many of these producers came my first taste of 2013 Barolo from bottle. Let me just say that the hype is officially warranted.
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Over the last two years we’ve been hearing hints about the possibility that 2013 could be the next great vintage. Producers would wax poetic over their expectations, and as friends returned from the region having tasted from barrel, each one would go on and on about the vintage.
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The first clues we had to the potential of 2013 came from Antonio Galloni of Vinous, who is constantly on the ground in Piedmont and tasting across a wide range of both young and mature wines. I still think back to his 2012 Barolo article “Grace Under Pressure”, where he tipped his hat in saying “The 2013 Barolos I have tasted from cask are aromatically compelling, rich and structured; in other words super-classic. At their best, the 2013s come across as slightly richer versions of the 2010s.” The comparison to 2010 and the thought of an added level of richness set my imagination on fire.
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However, there was another thing to consider, and that’s the escalation of Barolo prices and how important it is to get in as early as possible, especially when you consider the mad dash that collectors made for the 2010’s. All of this has cumulated into one of the most highly anticipated vintages that I have ever witnessed.
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And so, as the list of Barolo producers who would be in town for La Festa grew, my message to everyone I knew was to please, please, please let me taste some 2013 Barolo--and my wish was granted.
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Chiara Boschis, Elisa Scavino, Fabio Alessandria, and Giuseppe Vajra all took the time to taste and talk with me about the vintage, and what I found was nothing short of spectacular. The 2013 vintage was defined by wet and humid conditions in the spring, yet balanced out into a long and warm growing season, followed by the perfect yin and yang of warm days and cool nights in the fall. The result was a perfect crop for any producer who tended their vineyards with care. Giuseppe Vajra, of G.D. Vajra, told me that he “...feels like the 2013 vintage is closest to the 2008s,” which happens to be one of his all time favorites.
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For me, I find the structure of 2010, the aromatics of 2012 and the vibrancy of 2008, but we can talk in these terms for days. In the end, these are some of the most enjoyable young Barolos I’ve ever tasted. They posses stunningly layered aromatics, which continue to open in the glass over time, coupled with beautifully refined tannin, depths of fruit and enveloping textures. Frankly, it was difficult to pick favorites in nearly every tasting. I also couldn’t help but notice how enjoyable the Barolos made from a blend of vineyards were as well. The Paolo Scavino Barolo and Carobric, the Chiara Boschis Via Nuova, and the Vajra Albe were all amazing wines that will be thrilling us for decades to come.
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I’m happy to say that 2013 Barolo will be arriving on our shores very soon, and I will certainly be a buyer. Let the hunt begin.
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On to The Tasting Notes:</h3>
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<b>2013 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole</b> - The nose showed incredible depth with exotic floral tones, saline minerals, a bit of marine flora, plum, dusty spice and rosy florals. On the palate, I found mineral-laden cherry, cranberry, inner floral tones, exotic spice, and exquisitely fine tannin. The finish was long, long, long with masses of inner floral tones and dried berries. This wine has a long life ahead of it, and I can’t wait to see where it’s going. (<i>97 points</i>)<br />
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<b>2013 Vietti Barolo Rocche di Castiglione</b> - The nose was gorgeous and lifted with bright rosy floral tones, brilliantly pure red fruits, dusty earth, soaring minerality, wet stone, and exotic spices. On the palate, I found feminine textures with tart red cherry, herbs, inner florals and gorgeous, balancing acidity. It finish long and fresh on sweet herbs, minerals and fresh cherries. This is classic Rocche. (<i>97 points</i>)<br />
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<b>2013 Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric dël Fiasc</b> - The nose showed intense mineral-infused red berry, cherry, cranberry and hints of plum with a savory edge, then evolving into mint, licorice, undergrowth and hints of herbs. On the palate, silky yet massive textures gave way to a dark mix of both ripe black and tart red fruits, with notes of dark earth, minerals and a twang of bitter herbs. Tannins saturated the senses, yet they weren’t drying or tiring, as a coating a dark red fruits soothed the palate. This was a remarkably balanced Bric del Fiasc that is deceptive in its early appeal. (<i>97 points</i>)<br />
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<b>2013 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Vigneto Cannubi</b> - The nose showed masses of dark red fruits, crushed berries, wild herbs, pretty floral tones, and dusty spices, yet through the entire experience remained floral and finessed. On the palate, I found, dense, silky textures which coated the senses with notes of crushed berry and strawberry, before transitioning to inner florals and leather tones. It was much more lifted and refined than expected, with a long finish, displaying fresh red fruits and inner floral tones. (<i>96 points</i>)<br />
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<b>2013 Vietti Barolo Ravera</b> - The nose is incredibly deep, rooted in minerals, earth and spice, with dark floral tones, black cherry, plum, blackberry and mint. With time it opened even more to to reveal ethereal florals and herbs. On the palate, I found elegant, velvety textures, with sweet tannins and brisk mineral-laced acidity, giving way to dark fruits, minerals, plum, dried citrus, and hints of lavender. The finish was incredibly long with saturating dark fruits, yet youthfully tannic and closed in on itself. (<i>96 points</i>)
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<b>2013 Paolo Scavino Barolo Carobric</b> - The nose on the ‘13 Carobric was stunning. Here I found a layered, lifted and classic mix of crushed cherry, rosey florals, minerals and undergrowth, which turned savory over time, adding hints of dark spices and tobacco. On the palate, I found a vibrant yet silky expression with depths of red cherry playing a sweet-and-sour act on the senses, along with savory herbs and zesty acidity. It finished fresh yet structured on cherries and spice. (<i>96 points</i>)
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<b>2013 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero</b> - This is unmistakably Monvigliero. The nose displayed black olive, savory herbs, exotic florals, crushed strawberry, and Indian spice. On the palate, I found soft textures with pure red berry fruit, inner florals and a balanced mix of fine-grained tannins and brisk acidity. It was lifted, pure and classically structured throughout. The finish was long of dried cherry, strawberry and floral tones. (<i>96 points</i>)
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<b>2013 Vietti Barolo Lazzarito</b> - Here I found a dark and brooding bouquet of black and red fruits, moist earth, minerals, fresh mint, and hints of exotic spices. On the palate, I found silky, enveloping textures laced with fine tannin, giving way to saturating dark red fruits, hints of spice and bitter herbs. The finish went on and on--and on--with minerals, mint and a bitter twang of herbs. This an amazing vintage for Lazzarito. (<i>96 points</i>)
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<b>2013 E. Pira & Figli (Chiara Boschis) Barolo Cannubi </b>- This is a chameleon of a wine, with a bouquet that showed medicinal herb, raspberry, at times almost dark syrupy, then turning to black cherry, balsamic tones, giving way to minerals, dusty exotic spices and earth. On the palate, I found silky textures (very textural and dark - almost imposing at times) and dark red fruits which coated the wine’s fine tannin and saturated the senses over time. It was imposing and intense on the long finish, as fine grain tannin coated the senses, yet it’s wonderfully balanced. This should have some future in store. (<i>96 points</i>)
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<b>2013 E. Pira & Figli (Chiara Boschis) Barolo Via Nuova</b> - The nose was remarkably pretty with dark red fruits, roses, minerals, and exotic spices. It was brooding and at times reticent, until a note of minerals and crushed stone joined the fray. On the palate, I found lean, dense textures with dark red berry fruit laced with minerals and a web of fine tannin that saturated the senses. It was amazingly long on saturating dark red fruits and tannin. So classic. (<i>95 points</i>)
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<b>2013 Paolo Scavino Barolo Cannubi</b> - The ‘13 Cannubi was a dark and imposing wine of massive depth. Here I found notes of black cherry, sweet herbs, dark chocolate, dusty spice, and crushed stone. On the palate, a massive wave of velvety textures flooded the senses, and red and black fruits gave way to fine tannin. It was quite monolithic yet not over the top, and it tempted me with what was yet to come. The finish displayed intense tart black and red fruits with lasting minerality, seeming to create a black hole on the palate. I can’t even imagine what this wine will reveal in the decades to come, but I’m sure it will be something very special. (<i>95 points</i>)
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<b>2013 Paolo Scavino Barolo Bricco Ambrogio </b>- This showed a stunning array of aromatics, as eucalyptus and mint opened up to become tart cherry, roses, minerals and hints of undergrowth. On the palate, I found weighty textures of sheer silk, yet lively and balanced, as notes of plum and black cherry gave way to savory tones of salinity and herbs. It finished long on black cherry, spices and fine-grain tannin. (<i>95 points</i>)
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<b>2013 Luigi Baudana Barolo Baudana </b>- The nose was dark and rich with brown spices, crushed blackberry, a dusty mix of minerals and spice with a hint of animal musk. On the palate, I found remarkably soft, velvety textures with zesty black fruits, ripe plum and a bitter hint of herbal spice. It was at once youthfully tannic, yet fresh with a dark and imposing persona, finishing long with dark red fruits, saturating spice and a coating of fine tannin. (<i>95 points</i>)
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<b>2013 Luigi Baudana Barolo Cerretta</b> - The nose was spicy, with sweet florals and minerals, tart cherry, wild berry, and brown spices. Over time it became more polished and dark fruited, yet never losing it’s mineral thrust. On the palate, it was dark yet lifted and fresh with notes of wild herbs, blackberry and gruff tannin. Drying over time with youthful tannin, the finish was long and structured, only hinting at fruit. The cerretta will require many years in the cellar to show its best. (<i>94 points</i>)
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<b>2013 E. Pira & Figli (Chiara Boschis) Barolo Mosconi</b> - The nose was polished yet earthy, showing dark red fruits with dusty spices, crushed stone minerality, dark earth and floral tones. On the palate, I found pure, silky textures offset by vibrant acidity with tart red fruits, fine tannin and with a zesty acidity that created a bright expression with inner rosy florals. It finished long with tart berries and clenching young tannin. (<i>94 points</i>)
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<b>2013 Vietti Barolo Brunate</b> - The nose was dark and rich, showing mineral-laced floral tones, iron, hints of sweet dark spices, and balsamic tones. On the palate, I found savory, silky textures, with dark red berries, plum, and hints of balsamic. It finished incredibly long and brooding with penetrating notes of dark red berries and dried spices. (<i>94 points</i>)
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<b>2013 G.D. Vajra Barolo Ravera </b>- What an incredible bouquet on the 2013 Ravera. Here I found sweet dark florals, and brown spices in an exotic and hauntingly beautiful mix, than minerals, earth and undergrowth come forward. On the palate, I found soft textures with ripe dark red fruits, minerals and slow mounting tannin. It finished refined with saturating, brooding tannin and caking minerality. (<i>94 points</i>)
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<b>2013 Paolo Scavino Barolo</b> - This displayed a remarkably layered and engaging bouquet for an entry-level offering. Here I found woodsy earth tones with hints of mint, opening to mineral-infused cherry and tobacco. On the palate, I found lifted textures with a fine web of crystalline tannin that gently caressed the senses, as notes of tart cherry were smoothed out by zesty acidity. It finished long and structured on tart cherry and herbs. This was a fantastic showing. (<i>94 points</i>)
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<b>2013 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Acclivi</b> - What an exotic and floral bouquet, showing wild herbs, strawberry and hints of rose. On the palate, I found soft textures offset by tart red berry, inner floral tones and dusty spices. It finished dry with a coating of fine tannin and masses of dry extract. (<i>93 points</i>)
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<b>2013 Vietti Barolo Castiglione</b> - The nose opened with hints of cedar dust, dried cherries, and crushed fall leaves. On the palate, I found refined and silky textures, with pure red fruits, spice, intense minerals and savory depth. The finish was long with hauntingly dark floral tones and hints of bitter herbs. (<i>93 points</i>)
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<b>2013 G.D. Vajra Barolo Albe</b> - The bouquet displayed intense bright cherry, mint, pine, hints of cedar, roses and spice. On the palate, I found silky textures with a cherry and plum mix, lifted by wonderfully balanced acidity and a hint of youthful tannin. The finish was long with a coating of tart cherry, blackberry, medicinal herbs and hints of spice. (<i>93 points</i>)
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<b>2013 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo</b> - The nose was gorgeous, showing crushed raspberry, hints of herbs, and dusty spice. On the palate, I found soft textures, lifted by pure red fruits, inner floral tones and light tannin. It was remarkably pure, leading in a long finish with hints of tannin and inner floral tones. (<i>92 points</i>)
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<b>2013 Paolo Scavino Barolo Monvigliero</b> - The nose displayed sweet herbs, undergrowth and cherry liquor. On the palate, silky textures were offset by a bitter twang of tart red fruits and herbs, as the Monvigliero maintained its freshness through zesty acidity. The finish was long with saturating dark red fruits, spice and mint. I enjoyed this quite a bit, yet it lacks the textural heft that brings balance throughout the rest of the lineup. (<i>92 points</i>)
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<i>Article, Tasting Notes and Photos by: Eric Guido</i>Eric Guidohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16780641005168603049noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8084232295286066032.post-35693108918268209242017-02-01T16:42:00.089-05:002021-11-29T16:08:36.365-05:00A Season of Change: 2013 Brunello di Montalcino<p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sdyx33Nsc2A/YaQaqlYT2VI/AAAAAAAAkNM/AA7BfUgZXOARB2SSPTgpoGwhWSgVWUzpwCNcBGAsYHQ/s1000/Benvenuto_showroomsm.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="669" data-original-width="1000" height="214" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sdyx33Nsc2A/YaQaqlYT2VI/AAAAAAAAkNM/AA7BfUgZXOARB2SSPTgpoGwhWSgVWUzpwCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/Benvenuto_showroomsm.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: arial;"><div><span style="font-family: arial;"><i style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.6667px; white-space: pre-wrap;">By: Eric Guido (Originally published at The Cellar Table Blog)</i></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div>The timing of the annual Benvenuto Brunello tasting is as dependable as the changing of the seasons. Each year, the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino brings producers together for a tour through Chicago and New York to show the new vintage and their new wines. It has become the most reliable event for retailers and the press to get their first taste of Brunello in bottle, as well as a sneak peak of what’s ahead by sampling the current Rosso di Montalcino that’s presented. This year was particularly exciting, as the producers showed off the highly-anticipated 2013 vintage, as we have all been waiting with bated breath.</span><p></p><span id="docs-internal-guid-2066972e-7fff-bfd1-b969-9a97c29d984d"><h4 style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Why?</span></span></h4><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></span></p></span><span><p style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_TTRZXCRLfg/YaQbsIthNqI/AAAAAAAAkNY/zczoeDr3NDsM2Ec2ZxjVoPEKJYmLY-TgQCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20210706_064536.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1483" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_TTRZXCRLfg/YaQbsIthNqI/AAAAAAAAkNY/zczoeDr3NDsM2Ec2ZxjVoPEKJYmLY-TgQCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/20210706_064536.jpg" width="232" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: arial;">The 2013 vintage represents the first opportunity, in the last two years, to add classically-styled Brunello to our cellars. The warm vintage 2011s were rich, racy and ripe, but far from what the average Brunello lover is looking for, and 2012 fell flat, with stunning aromatics but little thrust or depth on the palate. What’s more, the majority of producers did not produce any 2014 Brunello (a tremendously wet and disastrous vintage), and 2015 is being referred to as another hot vintage. What this means to the buyer of Brunello di Montalcino is that, with the exception of paying top dollar in the secondary market for the highly-acclaimed 2010s, 2013 is our best bet to secure wine that will age, and we will easily enjoy over a decade or more.</span></span><p></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Then came the mixed messages.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2CrnI9wW75w/YaQcUXaG9_I/AAAAAAAAkNg/WWqmfN84pB03gBhpSqBp4qKzWbljWCmTQCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20210708_172218.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2CrnI9wW75w/YaQcUXaG9_I/AAAAAAAAkNg/WWqmfN84pB03gBhpSqBp4qKzWbljWCmTQCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/20210708_172218.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bottle aging room at Biondi Santi</td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">I find it odd in today’s world of social media and the sharing of information that so many mixed messages would exist around a vintage that has been aged and bottled for over a year now, but that’s exactly what we’ve seen. Much of this is the result of the world’s leading critics wanting to wait for the release of their own reports to spread their opinions on a vintage (you can’t blame them for this, as it is their livelihood). Yet what has been said, from a report from James Suckling, is that the vintage is variable--and he’s right to a certain degree. But it’s important to understand why.</span></span><p></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The initial fears came as word was spread that there was rain during harvest. However, the reality is that most producers picked their fruit prior to these rains--which led to the fear that producers didn’t obtain ideal ripeness. This is absolutely not true, as I can attest to, having now tasted the wines for myself. And then there is the fact that the Consorzio only rated the vintage four stars--all I can say to that is that the Consorzio rated the 2012 vintage with five stars (a vintage that fell flat on its face).</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">So why is there variability in 2013 Brunello?</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qIzvrWDEypk/YaQc8BnDm4I/AAAAAAAAkNo/MklNgi7ZQvwmO4w4LQEoz1wvgJ-n6WsjgCNcBGAsYHQ/s750/Jeff_Porter_Benvenutosm.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="522" data-original-width="750" height="223" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qIzvrWDEypk/YaQc8BnDm4I/AAAAAAAAkNo/MklNgi7ZQvwmO4w4LQEoz1wvgJ-n6WsjgCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/Jeff_Porter_Benvenutosm.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: arial;">One of the best aspects of Benvenuto Brunello is not only being able to taste the wines, but also to be able to talk to the producers and attend the focus tastings that are held before and during the event. At this year’s focus tasting, we tasted and talked with Jeff Porter, the Beverage Operations Director at Batali & Bastianich Hospitality Group, and an all-around cool guy with an amazing depth of knowledge regarding Italian wine. He also happened to have been in Montalcino during the 2013 vintage. In his opinion, the variability of 2013 lies in the conditions throughout the season and the willingness or ability of producers to put in the necessary work in to yield an ideal harvest.</span><p></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">What were the vintage conditions?</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The 2013 vintage was the result of a cool and wet spring that led to uneven temperatures through the beginning of the summer. From cool conditions, to warm and back to cool again, with rain scattered throughout, 2013 was like a vintage from the ‘60s or ‘70s. What it didn’t have, which helped to maintain its classic character, were heat spikes. As the summer ended, temperatures regulated and so did the precipitation, leading to ideal conditions through September. The threat of rain in October (which scared many consumers) was avoided by most producers, as they picked early (a benefit of today’s weather tracking technology). Some producers tried to wait out the rains, and they paid the price.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-M2oSCbTED6M/YaQeEkZDOzI/AAAAAAAAkN0/Motk-8vrLZ8OKR1Dl1E1viMIoeS_65i7gCNcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20210706_135717.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1295" data-original-width="2048" height="202" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-M2oSCbTED6M/YaQeEkZDOzI/AAAAAAAAkN0/Motk-8vrLZ8OKR1Dl1E1viMIoeS_65i7gCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/20210706_135717.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From Le Chiuse looking south to Montalcino</td></tr></tbody></table>The problem with this vintage, that’s been considered cool, rainy, and like a throwback to another era, is that many producers didn’t understand how to cope with the conditions. In a region like Montalcino, which is driven more by tourist dollars and could be considered the equivalent to a Napa Valley destination in Italy, the producers simply weren’t ready for a year like 2013--a season of constant change.</span><p></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The good news: 2013 is a Classic vintage. </span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HfMWK444zm8/YaTscgWC8dI/AAAAAAAAkOA/KQszp7Cdzx8_Vzmw2DIZIhRultS9R-XAACNcBGAsYHQ/s1000/Benvenuto_glasses_3sm.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="710" data-original-width="1000" height="227" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HfMWK444zm8/YaTscgWC8dI/AAAAAAAAkOA/KQszp7Cdzx8_Vzmw2DIZIhRultS9R-XAACNcBGAsYHQ/s320/Benvenuto_glasses_3sm.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></span></div><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Many of the top critics have hinted at 2013 being the next big vintage for Brunello di Montalcino. Often you need to read between the lines in their reports on Rosso di Montalcino, scour through their message boards, or stalk their social media, but in the end the message becomes clear. It also became very clear to me while tasting at Benvenuto--and other Brunello events this past week.</span></span><p></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The producers who put in the work succeeded in creating a selection of beautiful wines. In recent vintages, talk of location was very important, as the north and higher elevations did better through the warmer years, yet in 2013 this was not the case, as the vintage conditions remained relatively the same throughout.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Fl7-G2opEgE/YaTux8poEYI/AAAAAAAAkOI/rQjOKblUGQsK88UOOFkfuE-BP9EK0kqIQCNcBGAsYHQ/s782/Benvenuto_Corks%2B%25281%2Bof%2B1%2529sm.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="592" data-original-width="782" height="242" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Fl7-G2opEgE/YaTux8poEYI/AAAAAAAAkOI/rQjOKblUGQsK88UOOFkfuE-BP9EK0kqIQCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/Benvenuto_Corks%2B%25281%2Bof%2B1%2529sm.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></span></div><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">You can expect medium-bodied wines with amazing finesse, vibrant acidity, a core of stimulating minerality and the structure to age. In some cases, producers did pick too late, losing the necessary acidity or resulting in overripe fruit, but it’s important to keep in mind that this is the exception--not the rule. I believe that lovers of old-styled, classic vintages will find a lot to like in 2013. It’s not the knockout, bury-them-for-20-years that the 2010s were, but I find them to be an extremely enjoyable mix of the intensity of 2006, with the mineral-acid core of 2008, which is a pretty amazing combination.</span></span><p></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Brunello lovers rejoice, because we finally have a vintage to love again.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">On to the tasting notes</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R-hB62xUefE/YaT_a78dXLI/AAAAAAAAkOs/Pwhtn2NJxMsJxU1u9-L8jM68CqIWNB5FQCNcBGAsYHQ/s750/Brunello%2BVoliero%2B2013sm%2B%25281%2529.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="616" data-original-width="750" height="263" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R-hB62xUefE/YaT_a78dXLI/AAAAAAAAkOs/Pwhtn2NJxMsJxU1u9-L8jM68CqIWNB5FQCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/Brunello%2BVoliero%2B2013sm%2B%25281%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></span></div><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Tasting notes were developed through a combination of tasting at Benvenuto Brunello, as well as seated tastings both with and without producers in attendance. Many wines were tasted more than once in different settings and from different bottles. Any wines that have been tasted since, excluding those following my joining Vinous, have been added and noted as such at the end of the note.</span></span><p></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Voliero Brunello di Montalcino 2013</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is deeply alluring with violette floral tones, black cherry, dusty spices, leather and hints of savory herbs. On the palate, I’m finding silky textures balanced by zesty acids with texturally-rich cherry and strawberry, sweet spices and minerals which all combine to form a beautifully balanced expression. It finishes long with saturating dark berry fruits, spice, and fine tannin, yet remains energized by lingering acidity. I’ve liked this wine in the past, but in 2013 it reached a whole new level. (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">96 points</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">)</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eldROq1Twls/YaT-dizBJoI/AAAAAAAAkOQ/dCLCGMh16hcwJ-tm1iaWMu95X9L_-5USQCNcBGAsYHQ/s821/Castello_Romitorio_Bruenllo_Filo_di_Seta_2013sm.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="821" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eldROq1Twls/YaT-dizBJoI/AAAAAAAAkOQ/dCLCGMh16hcwJ-tm1iaWMu95X9L_-5USQCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/Castello_Romitorio_Bruenllo_Filo_di_Seta_2013sm.jpg" width="195" /></a></span></span></div><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino Filo di Seta 2013</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Filo di Seta is intense with a seductive and earthy mix of tart cherry, saline-minerals, dusty soil and mountainous herbs. It’s silky-soft and textural, yet with zesty acidity providing balance, as dark red berry, spice, leather and mineral tones saturate the senses. The finish is incredibly long, resonating on a core of minerals with hints of fine tannin and persistent red berry fruits lingering long on the senses. (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">96 points</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">)</span></span><p></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Pian dell'Orino Brunello di Montalcino Vigneti del Versante 2013 - </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Here I’m finding an inviting display of ripe strawberry and cherry giving way to sweet minerals, savory herbal tones and hints of animal musk. On the palate, this boasts refined and silky textures, offset by an intense wave of spiced cherry, strawberry, saline minerals and sweet tannin. It’s youthfully linear yet perfectly focused and balanced with a sweet-and-sour play on the senses. Fine tannins firm up the finish, with lingering acidity allowing hints of dried red fruits, cedar and spice to shine through. This is a wine for the cellar, which I can’t wait to add to my own. (Retasted and updated 3/13/2018) (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">96 points</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">)</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Il Palazzone Brunello di Montalcino 2013 -</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> The bouquet on the 2013 Brunello di Montalcino opens with a display of earth, undergrowth and animal musk, as notes of sweet and sour cherry, crushed flowers and fall leaves develop over time. This is a soft expression on the palate, as silky textures are contrasted by saline minerality, before notes of sweet spice and ripe strawberry join the mix. The finish is long and balanced, displaying fine tannin, tart cherry and a twang of savory herbs. This is an excellent vintage for Il Palazzone. (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">95 points</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">)</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-07GmzjIfC4U/YaT-oTDg5jI/AAAAAAAAkOU/Bgxvw6JLdZQJbTl4GjPy-RnUk5-WyVRigCNcBGAsYHQ/s1017/Canalicchio_Brunello_2013sm%2B%25281%2529.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1017" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-07GmzjIfC4U/YaT-oTDg5jI/AAAAAAAAkOU/Bgxvw6JLdZQJbTl4GjPy-RnUk5-WyVRigCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/Canalicchio_Brunello_2013sm%2B%25281%2529.jpg" width="157" /></a></span></span></div><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino 2013</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is rich, savory and quite dark on the nose, displaying black fruit and cherry with minerals and herbs filling in the details. With time in the glass, it develops to show crushed cherry and raspberry with hints of bell pepper. This is a refined and silky expression, as its textures caress the senses with dark red fruits, chalky extract, soft tannins and inner floral tones. The long, dark fruit finish seems to go on and on with hints of savory herbs and minerals. I was fortunate enough to taste this twice and both times it was stunning. Simply gorgeous. (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">95 points</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">)</span></span><p></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Cerbaiola (Salvioni) Brunello di Montalcino 2013</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is earthy and dark, with crushed stone minerality up front, giving way to woodland berries, strawberry, dark moist earth, and undergrowth. On the palate, I'm finding silky textures, with a twang of brisk acids, sweet-and-sour red fruits, spices, dried orange and minerals. It finishes fresh with lingering tannic heft, tart berries and mineral tones. This is a wine for the ages, earthy in the best possible way, while balanced by gorgeous fruit and regal structure. (Retasted and updated 10-18-2018) (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">95 points</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">)</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NoAmVFi-XnM/YaUzhRfoT2I/AAAAAAAAkP8/De5PUQzgPNwxyCygJrg8ZDaxSIzrG-MSACPcBGAYYCw/s750/Capanna_Mixsm.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="495" data-original-width="750" height="211" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NoAmVFi-XnM/YaUzhRfoT2I/AAAAAAAAkP8/De5PUQzgPNwxyCygJrg8ZDaxSIzrG-MSACPcBGAYYCw/s320/Capanna_Mixsm.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></span></div><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Capanna Brunello di Montalcino 2013 </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">- The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is wonderfully fresh yet intense, showing crushed strawberry and raspberry with dusty dry soil tones, fall leaves and hints of spice. On the palate, I found velvety textures which were perfectly balanced by a wave of fresh acidity, as dark red fruits and spice nearly enveloped the wine’s fine tannic structure--nearly. The long finish showcased classic tannin with notes of dried cherry, plum, sweet spice and earth tones. (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">95 points</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">)</span></span><p></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Il Marroneto Brunello di Montalcino 2013</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is remarkably fresh and perfumed, displaying sweet, dried rosy florals, with animal-muskiness giving way to crushed bright cherry, stone dust and hints of cinnamon. This is silky yet lifted on the palate, showing amazing purity, as notes of floral-infused fresh cherry splash across the senses leaving a mix of brisk acidity and crunchy tannin. Pretty inner florals and spice mount throughout the finale, leading to a long and structured finish, yet still lively and fresh, showing earthy florals and lingering minerals. There was so much going on here, yet it’s also wonderfully refined. (Retasted and updated 1-29-2019) (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">94 points</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">)</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fBuFL5ojhBI/YaT_EJY5zFI/AAAAAAAAkOk/nf4aIc202eUhq0Ujqoczs3uSsAdX_F7CwCNcBGAsYHQ/s700/Brunello_Mocali_2013crosmp%2B%25281%2529.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="700" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fBuFL5ojhBI/YaT_EJY5zFI/AAAAAAAAkOk/nf4aIc202eUhq0Ujqoczs3uSsAdX_F7CwCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/Brunello_Mocali_2013crosmp%2B%25281%2529.jpg" width="229" /></a></span></span></div><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Mocali Brunello di Montalcino Vigna delle Raunate 2013</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Raunate is dark, rich and spicy with dried orange, black tea, and crushed black cherry. On the palate, I found cool-toned, lifted textures with bright strawberry, dried florals and leather. This was juicy to the core through vibrant acidity, as hints of fine tannin slowly set in. The finish was long with palate-satuarting red berry fruits and spice. (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">94 points</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">)</span></span><p></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Gianni Brunelli Brunello di Montalcino 2013 </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">- The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is dark-fruited yet lifted with hints of sweet dusty spice, minerals, strawberry, plum and dried flowers. On the palate, I found soft, fleshy textures with dark strawberry, hints of mint and fine tannin, yet almost creamy with balanced acidity. The finish was medium-long with wild berry, inner florals and hints of bitter cherry. (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">94 points</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">)</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino 2013</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> - The nose on the 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is gorgeous and spirited with its sweet, spicy personality, as dusty ripe cherry and wild herbs wafted up from the glass, and earth tones evolved over time. On the palate, I found a silky, textural experience with lifting minerality, savory herbs and zesty acidity adding depth to its ripe cherry fruit. The finish was long and classically structured, showing a lot of promise for the future. (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">94 points</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">)</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">MastroJanni 2013 Brunello di Montalcino</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino lifts up with an intense woodsey display with dried flowers, dusty soil, tuscan spice and dried black cherry. On the palate, soft textures are offset by savory spices, with saline-minerals, ripe cherry, earthy sous-bois and balanced acidity, providing a pleasurable experience in contrast to the 2013s youthful tannins. The finish is long and spicy as zesty acids linger along with notes of mushroom and red berries. This is already so enjoyable on its energy and earth tones, yet there's so much more in store for the patient collector. (Retasted and updated 3/2/2018) (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">94 points</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">)</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_RAxPMjzc_4/YaT_lNfPiZI/AAAAAAAAkOw/75IPsTmBF_wYXrr8_PKghlmi7qdwqzFygCNcBGAsYHQ/s880/Brunello_Tiezzism%2B%25281%2529.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="880" data-original-width="750" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_RAxPMjzc_4/YaT_lNfPiZI/AAAAAAAAkOw/75IPsTmBF_wYXrr8_PKghlmi7qdwqzFygCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/Brunello_Tiezzism%2B%25281%2529.jpg" width="273" /></a></span></span></div><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Brunello di Montalcino 2013</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> - The nose on the 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is dark, showing licorice and lavender up front, with notes of undergrowth, moist earth, dusty spices and black cherry evolving with time in the glass. On the palate, I found velvety textures balanced by zesty acidity with purple inner-floral tones, ripe strawberry, minerals and spice. It finished long on fine saturating tannin, dried strawberry, and lively acidity that provided grip. This was a beautifully balanced and enjoyable Brunello. (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">94 points</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">)</span></span><p></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Tiezzi Enzo Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Soccorso 2013</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Soccorso is dark with dried strawberries, blackberry, brown spices, crushed stone minerality and undergrowth. On the palate, I found angular dense textures yet still enveloping the acid-and-tannin mix, as tart cherry and wild berry fruits combined with zesty citrus-infused acidity. The finish was long with cheek-puckering red berry fruit, leather tones and fine-grained tannin. This has a long way to go in the cellar before showing it’s best, but is enjoyable today on its potential alone. (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">94 points</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">) </span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K0PqKciTkyg/YaT-yHmF_SI/AAAAAAAAkOY/jyq2HR6-4CwgJJHPLj5ftZJ3uAh7-RrgQCNcBGAsYHQ/s1054/Barbi_Brunello_2013_2sm.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1054" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K0PqKciTkyg/YaT-yHmF_SI/AAAAAAAAkOY/jyq2HR6-4CwgJJHPLj5ftZJ3uAh7-RrgQCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/Barbi_Brunello_2013_2sm.jpg" width="152" /></a></span></span></div><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Fattoria dei Barbi Brunello di Montalcino 2013 -</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> One of the standouts of my recent tastings, the Fattoria dei Barbi 2013 Brunello di Montalcino hits a perfect balance of earth, spice and minerality, that starts in the bouquet and follows through to the finish. The nose shows dusty spiced strawberry and tart cherry backed by saline-minerals and hints of animal musk. This is a soft yet zesty expression, showcasing ripe strawberry fruit with inner floral tones and a savory salty characteristic. The finish is long with floral-laced tart red berries and hints of fine tannin. The 2013 is already enjoyable today, yet it has a bright future ahead of it. (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">94 points</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">)</span></span><p></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Caprili 2013 Brunello di Montalcino</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> - The bouquet of the 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is thrilling for a lover of traditional Brunello. Here I’m finding an earthy display, showing masses of crushed strawberry mixed with smoke, stone dust, dried florals, sweet sous-bois, and undergrowth. On the palate, soft textures are contrasted by brisk acidity as notes of ripe strawberry and cherry wash across the senses, followed by saline-minerality, spice and leathery notes. It’s fine tannins show through the long finish, along with salty, savory minerals and tart cherries. This is already beautiful but sure to improve over the next five to ten years. (Retasted and updated 3-29-2018) (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">93 points</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">)</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino 2013 </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">- The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is layered, dark and floral with crushed black cherry, plum, rich brown spices, wild herbs, hints of animal musk and undergrowth. This boasts unbelievably silky textures with a dense mix of sour cherry, balsamic spice and saline-minerality, which creates a sweet-and-sour mix, as fine tannin mounts with each sip. The finish is long with saturating tart red fruits, minerals and grippy young tannins. (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">93 points</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">) </span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zXgbvNB8Wt8/YaT__LWDUaI/AAAAAAAAkO8/32gOHJy6ggIewyNcrxuGJsK3r8GuRfVWgCNcBGAsYHQ/s765/Il_Poggione_Brunello_2013sm.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="765" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zXgbvNB8Wt8/YaT__LWDUaI/AAAAAAAAkO8/32gOHJy6ggIewyNcrxuGJsK3r8GuRfVWgCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/Il_Poggione_Brunello_2013sm.jpg" width="209" /></a></span></span></div><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino 2013</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is remarkably fresh and refined, displaying pure strawberry and cherry fruit, with dusty sweet floral tones and minerals. This has youthfully-lean textures with zesty acidity giving life to notes of tart cherry, spice and earth tones. It finishes long and structured with lasting dried berry fruit and hints of leather. (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">93 points</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">)</span></span><p></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino 2013 - </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is wonderfully layered and deep, morphing between crushed cherry, strawberry and blueberry before gaining lift through mineral tones and floral undergrowth, along with hints of leather. On the palate, this is a soft expression which is quickly contrasted by a wave of zesty acidity, as wild berry and orange-citrus-tinged spices saturate the senses. The finish is long with a mix of fresh fruits before light tannin takes control and saturates the senses. Wow, talk about a wine that’s easy to like, and it would probably have scored a bit higher in my book if it wasn’t already so drinkable. (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">93 points</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">)</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino 2013 </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">- The2013 Brunello di Montalcino is deep and layered with sweet herbs, undergrowth, crushed strawberry, minerals, undergrowth and dusty spices. Here I’m finding soft, silk textures with fleshy cherry, spices and zesty minerality. This is juicy, spicy and fresh with fine tannins setting in through the finale, as zesty bright acidity gives life to dried strawberry and mineral tones. (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">93 points</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">)</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o7eIZz4Dxg4/YaUy-D9efpI/AAAAAAAAkPo/95zEdk6qf-Ik06rd_Jb747QwiINqISG2gCNcBGAsYHQ/s827/Mocali_Brunello_2013sm.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="827" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o7eIZz4Dxg4/YaUy-D9efpI/AAAAAAAAkPo/95zEdk6qf-Ik06rd_Jb747QwiINqISG2gCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/Mocali_Brunello_2013sm.jpg" width="193" /></a></span></span></div><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Mocali Brunello di Montalcino 2013</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is dark, showing masses of crushed stone minerality, undergrowth, and black earth upfront, as notes of crushed strawberry and spice develop over time. On the palate, this boasts soft textures offset by wild berries, spice, inner florals, and hints of animal musk that translate directly from the bouquet. The finish is long with chewy tannins, dried strawberry and hints of spice. (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">93 points</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">)</span></span><p></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">San Filippo 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Le Lucere</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> - It took a good hour for the 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Le Lucere to open up. With time in the glass this shows a beautiful bouquet of ripe, dark red fruit with sweet tobacco, herbs, and brown spices. Its velvety textures usher in ripe black cherry and strawberry, yet with a balancing wave of tannin and acid adding vibrancy, while minerals and spice tones saturated the senses. The finish is long, as the 2013’s structure starts to show, as each passing sip builds on the layer of tannin before it. This is a big wine, yet it achieves remarkable balance. (Retasted and updated 10-18-2018) (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">93 points</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">)</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Valdicava 2013 Brunello di Montalcino</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino shows spicy cherry, with sweet, sweet florals, hints of crushed stone and cedar with a twang of alpine herbs. On the palate, this boasts soft textures offset by zesty acids and spice as tart red fruits amass, along with minerals and red inner florals. The finish is long, with young tannins settling on the senses, as red berries, spices and saline minerals slowly faded. (Retasted and updated 10-22-2019) (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">93 points</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">) </span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Tiezzi Enzo Brunello di Montalcino Poggio Cerrino 2013</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> - The nose really pulls you in, as the 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Poggio Cerrino shows underbrush with crushed strawberry, cherries, brown spices, and dried flowers. This is wonderfully soft and soothing, with fleshy textures ushering in violet-inflected inner florals, darker-toned strawberry fruits and leather. Its acidity is balanced and lively, adding energy and verve, as the 2013 tapers off zesty and fresh lingering on tart berries and hints of spice. (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">92 points</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">)</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LBDsjE4pt9A/YaUAsye3FyI/AAAAAAAAkPc/QgiQQ9DmMuAJGbkwavsVeAfiOZKVBoRbwCNcBGAsYHQ/s1035/Podere_Scopetone_Brunello_2013sm.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1035" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LBDsjE4pt9A/YaUAsye3FyI/AAAAAAAAkPc/QgiQQ9DmMuAJGbkwavsVeAfiOZKVBoRbwCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/Podere_Scopetone_Brunello_2013sm.jpg" width="155" /></a></span></span></div><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Scopetone Brunello di Montalcino 2013 </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">- The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is dark and intense with masses of crushed strawberry, blackberry, dusty sweet spice and leather. This is cool-toned in style with silky textures giving way to a vivid mix of cherry and red berry fruits. Juicy acidity adds vibrancy, as the 2013 finishes medium-long with tart currant and hints of spice. What the 2013 Scopetone lacks in depth, it makes up for in sheer drinkability. (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">92 points</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">)</span></span><p></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Palazzo Brunello di Montalcino 2013</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is pretty, showing dried floral tones with spiced black cherry. On the palate, I found a zesty expression with black cherry, sweet spices, and minerals. The finish was medium-long with an acid twang, dried black cherry and a hint of bitter herbs. (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">92 points</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">)</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Fanti Brunello di Montalcino 2013</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is airy and fresh with sweet cherry and dusty floral tones. This provides a soft textural experience, as ripe berries and sweet spice combine with brisk acidity to create a very forward and “easy-to-like” expression. The finish is medium-long and energetic, with ripe berry and spice tones lasting throughout. I can’t imagine this wine maturing over the course of decades, but I’m not sure that matters with how enjoyable it is already. (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">92 points</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">)</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino La Casa 2013</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> - At first, the 2013 Brunello di Montalcino La Casa is withdrawn, yet it comes to life with time in the glass, showing dusty red berry fruits and dried flowers. On the palate, this is an angular expression with brisk acidity adding much needed energy, as spiced red berries and minerals flood the senses, then proceed to reveal saturating tannin with notions of salty minerals and crushed stone on the finish. I have to wonder just how this wine will evolve, as my impression leaves me thinking that the fruit may not outlive the structure. (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">92 points</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">)</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aQKYYo1H3YI/YaUALfB5U2I/AAAAAAAAkPA/AxdJeGdnVE4axQiXbn6WWyNucDMjsTNUQCNcBGAsYHQ/s579/Val_Di_Suga_Brunello%25292913sm.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="579" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aQKYYo1H3YI/YaUALfB5U2I/AAAAAAAAkPA/AxdJeGdnVE4axQiXbn6WWyNucDMjsTNUQCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/Val_Di_Suga_Brunello%25292913sm.jpg" width="276" /></a></span></span></div><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino 2013 - </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is rich and very dark, as blackberry and notes of sweetened cream wafted up from the glass. With time, savory spices, undergrowth and leather emerge. This is silky and dense on the palate, with caressing textures, dark red fruits, savory herbs and saline-minerality. The finish is long, showing the first signs of youthful tannin, as notes of dried cherry and minerals linger on and on. Being told that it’s a wine that’s made in a traditional manner, I was confused by its richness and textures--yet the proof of it’s quality is easily recognizable. (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">92 points</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">)</span></span><p></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">La Magia Brunello di Montalcino 2013 - </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is remarkably pretty and understated, showing cranberry, perfumed floral tones and a sweet dusting of spice. It’s wonderfully textural and dense on the palate, yet balanced through brisk acidity with a mix of rosy cherry, inner florals, dusty spices and hints of cedar. The finish is long and structured, resonating on sour cherry and cheek-puckering dry tannins. (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">92 points</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">)</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TL1W4rBMcho/YaUARgUY3hI/AAAAAAAAkPI/0jJGNWIFiYECSUn_qLfygBHjPOT3GlNGACNcBGAsYHQ/s965/Poggio_Il_Castellare_Brunello_2013sm.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="965" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TL1W4rBMcho/YaUARgUY3hI/AAAAAAAAkPI/0jJGNWIFiYECSUn_qLfygBHjPOT3GlNGACNcBGAsYHQ/s320/Poggio_Il_Castellare_Brunello_2013sm.jpg" width="166" /></a></span></span></div><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Poggio il Castellare Brunello di Montalcino 2013</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is withdrawn at first, needing time in the glass to evolve and display pure red berry fruits, dusty earth and dried floral tones. Here I’m finding soft, velvety textures with dark red fruits, a cut of balancing acidity and saline minerality. The finish is youthfully dry with tart red berries, hints of leather and a lasting salty flourish. (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">91 points</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">)</span></span><p></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">La Poderina 2013 Brunello di Montalcino</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is dark and rich, showing crushed black cherry, sweet herbs, smoky minerality, balsamic spices and a hint of fresh coffee bean. On the palate, I’m finding soft textures with tart red and black fruits, zesty acids, spice, leather, and inner floral tones. It finishes long and spicy, with saturating red fruits, resonating red florals and balsamic spice. (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">91 points</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">)</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">La Fiorita Brunello di Montalcino 2013 </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">- The bouquet of the 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is layered and deep with earth and underbrush up front, giving way to ripe black cherry, strawberry, and evolving to include crushed stone and moist soil. It’s silky textures give way to tart cherry and sweet spice, yet it lacks follow-through. The finish is medium-long and energetic through late-arriving acidity. (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">91 points</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">)</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Podere Brizio Brunello di Montalcino 2013 </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">- The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino shows crushed cherry, spice, dried flowers, and minerals, yet it’s also a bit dried out. On the palate, this displays soft textures with cherry, licorice and inner florals, in an airy and fresh expression. The finish is long with spicy cherry saturating deeply, along with a coating of fine tannin. (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">92 points</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">)</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">La Colombina Brunello di Montalcino 2013 </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">- The nose of the 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is dark with notes of crushed blackberry, dusty spice, lavender and cedar. On the palate, I’m finding soft, silky textures with ripe cherry, sweet spice, licorice and sweet fine tannin. This is driven and intense yet balanced with lively acidity. The finish is long and spicy, with fine tannin gripping the senses. The 2013 is already enjoyable and growing on me more and more as I taste it. (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">92 points</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">)</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Altesino Brunello di Montalcino</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> - The 2013 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is pretty with a mix of red berries, spice and violet floral tones. On the palate, silky textures offset bright strawberry, and spices with brisk acidity and slightly chewy tannins. The finish is long, resonating with dried cherries, lingering acids and earth tones. (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">91 points</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">)</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qRyXLGLSSXY/YaUzFvWnWKI/AAAAAAAAkPs/I5AE5NjvfTMkR0cVlIpdlOkZdlFjHN7AACNcBGAsYHQ/s848/Talenti_Brunello_2013_2sm.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="848" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qRyXLGLSSXY/YaUzFvWnWKI/AAAAAAAAkPs/I5AE5NjvfTMkR0cVlIpdlOkZdlFjHN7AACNcBGAsYHQ/s320/Talenti_Brunello_2013_2sm.jpg" width="189" /></a></span></span></div><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Talenti Brunello di Montalcino 2013 - </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is dark, showing black cherry, floral undergrowth, rich spices and moist earth. On the palate, silky textures with dark red berry fruit and inner floral tones flesh out, as the experience turns more angular, with tannin mounting with each sip. The finish is medium in length with dark florals and black cherry. It’s far from a bad wine, yet much of its appeal is only surface-deep.</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">(</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">90 points</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">)</span></span><p></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino 2013</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino shows deep wild berries with earthy minerals and animal musk. On the palate, I’m finding a vibrant expression, as a mix of cherry and strawberry combined with notes of underbrush. The finish iss shorter than I’d hoped, with hints of leather, spice and drying tannin. (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">90 points</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">)</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Col di Lamo Brunello di Montalcino 2013</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is withdrawn at first, requiring quite a bit of coaxing before a bouquet of bright cherry and dusty florals emerge. On the palate, I’m finding a soft-plush expression with fleshy sweet cherry and hints of spice. The finish is energetic and medium-long, displaying a mix of zesty acidity together with saline-minerality. (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">89 points</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">)</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sE1koocF29E/YaUAXyXjzCI/AAAAAAAAkPM/uv2rpIBK87QI11aXUOFt1xVwvSzwkphJQCNcBGAsYHQ/s916/Poggio_Nardone_Brunello_2013sm.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="916" data-original-width="500" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sE1koocF29E/YaUAXyXjzCI/AAAAAAAAkPM/uv2rpIBK87QI11aXUOFt1xVwvSzwkphJQCNcBGAsYHQ/s320/Poggio_Nardone_Brunello_2013sm.jpg" width="175" /></a></span></span></div><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Poggio Nardone Brunello di Montalcino 2013</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is dark and quite ripe, showing crushed black cherry, strawberry, sweet herbs, and undergrowth. On the palate, this is a juicy expression with ripe blackberry, strawberry and sweet spices. Fine tannins settle in through the finale, along with hints of undergrowth and violet florals This lack a bit of depth, leaning more on ripeness of fruit. (89 points)</span></span><p></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Capanne Ricci Brunello di Montalcino 2013</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino shows bright cherry and spice with hints of tobacco and dried flowers. Here I’m finding silky textures with persistent red berry fruit and sweet spice, yet it lacks the thrust of the best wines. The finish is medium in length, as a bump of acidity adds a lively tang to the finale. (88 points)</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Casicano Tommasi Family Brunello di Montalcino 2013 </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">- The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino shows floral undergrowth with black cherry, marine-inspired minerality and savory herbs. This gives way to a silky expression on the palate with plum and sweet spice, yet it lacks depth and the necessary acidity to add energy and tension. The finish is medium-long with light tannin and hints of dried red fruits. (88 points)</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Piancornello e Podere del Visciolo Brunello di Montalcino 2013</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino shows dusty spices up front with ripe red fruits and dusty florals. This is a soft expression with flesh cherry and clove, but little else. The finish is saturating to the senses, as a mix of dry tannin and red and blue fruits hold firm. (87 points)</span></span></p><br />Eric Guidohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16780641005168603049noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8084232295286066032.post-57818308193169655472016-12-20T15:03:00.001-05:002016-12-20T15:03:05.891-05:00Bruno Giacosa Barolo & Barbaresco 1961 - 2008: The Tasting of a Lifetime<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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In comparison to many of the collectors I know, my experience with Barolo is relatively short. It was only eleven years ago that I was pulled into the world of Nebbiolo. I was warned by others that it could happen, that I might be entering into a hobby that would become a lifelong obsession. The world of Barolo and Barbaresco is vast, and the unique experiences depend on so many deciding factors. The soil, the climate, the exposition, and altitude are just the beginning. When you take it to the next level, you see that the lists of vineyard names and unique qualities of each one can fill a book--in fact, they have. Then you look beyond that, to the vintage, the winery, the winemaker, the style and the passion.
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You start to realize that with each wine you acquire and enjoy, you are further embarking on a journey to understanding how a bottle of fermented grape juice can be so moving, or simply stop you in your tracks. That’s the magic of Barolo and Barbaresco.
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The history of this region, and how it came to be, is just as important as the factors which decide what the experience will entail. From that living history, we come across the names of producers who have shaped the entire region, and what we perceive to be the greatest experiences we’ve encountered. From that list of names, one person who stands out for his pioneering spirit, insights, and unique abilities, is Bruno Giacosa.
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Bruno Giacosa didn’t learn his craft studying enology at school. Instead, at the age of thirteen, Bruno began working in the cellar with his father and grandfather, who made their business producing wine that would be sold in demijohn instead of being bottled at the winery. This wasn’t a family of farmers turned winemakers; this was a family of grape brokers who had established long-lasting relationships throughout the region. The experience of touring landscapes of the surrounding villages with his father helped to shape Bruno and hone his most valuable asset, that is, his ability to source the best fruit for both Barolo and Barbaresco.
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Located in Neive, Bruno took the reins of the family business in 1960 and immediately began bottling wine from what would become some of the biggest named vineyards in the region. His first vintage was 1961, when he bottled a Barolo (with fruit from Falletto) and a Barbaresco (a mix of Gallina and Santo Stefano). Before long, this culminated into the release of vineyard-designated wines, starting in 1967, at a time when few producers saw the winds of change on the horizon. Along with producers like Angelo Gaja and Alfredo Currado (Vietti), Bruno Giacosa began to pave the way for Barolo and Barbaresco as we know it today.
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The one thing that he didn’t have was his own vineyards. Even with Bruno’s skills of sourcing the best fruit, he watched as farmers became winemakers, making the best vineyard sources more difficult to acquire. Without skipping a beat, and always ahead of the curve, Bruno purchased his first vineyard in 1982, the one which he has been accredited for making famous: Falletto di Serralunga. Over the years, he would go on to buy more parcels, taking pieces of Asili and Rabaja in Barbaresco; yet through that time, Bruno continued to source fruit, but only when it was up to his standards. Many Barolo collectors lament over the loss of Giacosa-bottled Villero and Vigna Rionda--and in more modern times, Santo Stefano.
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However, it was Bruno’s quest for the utmost quality that drove him to create the wines that we know and love today. In the greatest vintages, we would be treated to the release of his epic red label riservas. In the poor vintages, Bruno would simply declassify his fruit and sell the juice in bulk. To this day, lovers of Barolo and Barbaresco hunt for leads that could explain where this wine went to.
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As for the style that defines the house of Giacosa, it is often referred to as traditional. Yet this is by no means a stark traditionalist approach. Instead, Bruno wanted to make great Barolo. The broadest way to describe this approach is with macerations around 30 days long, fermenting in stainless steel with moderate temperatures, and aging in large Botti of French origin. That said, I’ve heard stories of this approach varying over time. But does that really matter? In my opinion, it does not, because the fact remains that these are some of the greatest wines that were ever made from throughout the region.
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Unfortunately, Bruno suffered a stroke in 2006, which was followed by the temporary loss of his highly talented oenologist, Dante Scaglione. With her father’s health in decline, Bruna Giacosa (Bruno’s daughter) stepped up to the mantel, and what followed was a period of unevenness. However, with Dante back in the winery, Bruno back on his feet, and his daughter at his side, I have high hopes that the Bruno Giacosa winery will be back on top once again.
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This all leads to December 12th, 2016, at a restaurant in New York City named <a href="http://www.degreziaristorante.com/" target="_blank">DeGrezia</a>, where a table full of some of the most passionate Barolo collectors I know, <a href="http://www.vinous.com/" target="_blank">Antonio Galloni</a> among us, built our lineup of Bruno Giacosa. The tasting nearly spanned Giacosa’s entire history, from the inaugural vintage all the way to 2008. You can imagine the anxiety that filled us all, even weeks before the event. I can attest to my own personal health, which had been in decline the previous week, and how hard I worked to get myself back into condition, because this was not a tasting to miss. In fact, this was the experience of a lifetime.
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<span style="font-size: large;">On to the tasting notes:
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<b>2008 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Le Rocche Riserva </b>- (served blind) This is one of those moments where you consider the score versus the cost, and you have to question whether one should affect the other. The controversial ‘08 Rocche was served blind, and it was clear that it was Nebbiolo. What was not clear was where it was from, and no one would have guessed Giacosa Riserva. The nose showed ripe cherry with a dusting of spice and dried orange. On the palate, I found tart red fruits with saturating minerality and a zing of fresh acidity. Youthful tannin coated the senses, drying the palate and finishing on notes of spice and cedar. (<i>90 points</i>)
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<b>2007 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili Riserva</b> - The ‘07 Asili was so easy to like, taking the ripeness of the vintage and combining it perfectly with the house style. Here I found a bouquet of sweet florals and spice, with hard red candies and the slightest hint of undergrowth. On the palate, I found intense dark red fruits ushered in by angular, weighty textures. Vibrant acidity mixed with grippy tannins, which provided the perfect contrast to the ‘07’s warm vintage persona. It finished long on spicy red berries, bitter cherry and spice. (<i>94 points</i>)
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<b>2004 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili Riserva </b>- The '04 Asili was firing on all cylinders tonight. One of the first wow wines of the tasting, and it stayed with me throughout the entire evening. Almost impossible to take my nose from the glass, with a mix of fresh herbal-tinged cherry, exotic florals, minerals and green olive. On the palate, it was rooted in the earth, layered, and showing masses of structured depth, as saline-minerality paved the way for dried cherry, leather and iron. It finished unbelievably fresh on a note of cherry pits with hints of spice and fine tannin. There's so much potential here, as my last comment to my fellow tasters was, "why don't I have this wine in my cellar?" (<i>98 points</i>)
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<b>2001 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Rabaja Riserva</b> - Where to begin with this elegant beauty of a wine? The nose was a dark and exotic beauty which filled the senses with aromas of cinnamon-tinged black cherry, brown spices, tobacco, dusty florals, and tar. A massive wave of dark fruit swept across the palate, delivering saturating fine tannin with notes of leather, cedar and exotic spice. The long finish lingered with resonating tart red berry, spice and a coating of fine tannin. The is a gorgeous wine with marvelous balance and decades of evolution ahead of it. (<i>97 points</i>)
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<b>2000 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Le Rocche Riserva</b> - The ‘00 Rocche was simply seductive with an alluring bouquet and enveloping on the palate. Here I found a dark and inviting mix of crushed cherry and strawberry with sweet spices. On the palate, soft textures gave way to floral-infused cherry, as hints of leather and earth tones filled the senses. The finish was long with a yin-and-yang of sweet red fruits and a bitter twang of spice and herbs. Although this came across as a bit roasted, it was still so easy to like. (<i>94 points</i>)
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<b>1996 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili Riserva</b> - My love of Giacosa’s Asili seems to grow deeper and deeper with every taste. Here I found an earthy and seductive bouquet of savory herbs and seared meat, which transformed to crushed berries, plum, roses and hints of moist soil. On the palate, I found soft textures contrasted by youthful tannin, as vibrant dark-red fruit filled the senses, along with, earthy minerals, anise and bitter balsamics. The finish was youthfully dry, yet dense red fruits prevailed, promising many years of development. What a beautiful wine. (<i>96 points</i>)
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<b>1996 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto </b>- This opened with a beautiful and exuberant display of wild berry, dusty spice, rose, licorice, crushed stone minerality and smoke. On the palate, I found angular textures with youthful tannin, yet its vibrant spiced-cherry fruit maintained a wonderfully drinkable persona. It finished on palate-coating tart red berries, tar and leather tones with hints of lingering mineral-infused tannin. (<i>95 points</i>)
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<b>1989 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto Riserva</b> - The ‘89 Falletto didn’t perform as well as past bottles I’ve experienced, as it seems it may have been poorly stored at one point in its life. The nose showed minerals up front, along with dried berries, spiced orange and notes of undergrowth. On the palate, I found dark, almost murky, red fruits with notes of coffee grinds, sweet spice and moderate tannins. A roasted sensation lingered, as it finished on briny minerality. (<i>NA</i>)
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<b>1989 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Villero</b> - The ‘89 Villero opened with a funky earth, mushroom and mineral-driven bouquet, yet quickly evolved in the glass to reveal bright red fruit with rosy florals, undergrowth and spice. On the palate, I found soft, silky textures, which seemed to touch upon all of the senses, as notes of undergrowth seemed to carry over from the bouquet, leading to ripe cherry, spice, cedar, and a slight grip of still youthful tannin. It finished youthful with dried cherry, minerals and hints of exotic spice. With the exception of a slightly dirty quality on the nose, this was exceptional. (<i>95 points</i>)
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<b>1986 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Le Rocche di Castiglione</b> - The nose was dark and massive, with plush notes of black cherry, sweet herbs, earth followed by hints of almond, celery and dried cedar. On the palate, I found vibrant, acid-driven textures overlaying rich dark red fruit, with hints of balsamic, smoke and spice. This finish was shorter than I’d hope yet left a sense of utter balance and remnants of minerality. (<i>93 points</i>)
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<b>1985 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Le Rocche di Castiglione</b> - What started as a vegetal nose of cucumber and herbs quickly evolved into a wonderful display of crushed strawberry, brown spice, earth and dried roses. On the palate, I found soft textures with a rich display of spicy crushed cherry, which was pumped up by a pulse of vibrant acidity and mineral thrust. It finished on dried red berry, which coated the palate and slowly faded to minerals and earth. (<i>94 points</i>)
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<b>1980 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Le Rocche di Castiglione</b> - The ‘80 Rocche displayed a fully mature bouquet of tart dried berries, orange peel, hints of caramel and iodine. On the palate, I found savory and herbal-infused remnants of red berry with hints of cedar and spice. A wave of acidity maintained freshness throughout and paved the way for a pleasurable finale of dried berries and earth tones. (<i>92 points</i>)<br />
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<b>1979 Bruno Giacosa Barolo</b> - The ‘79 Barolo was completely mature yet still quite enjoyable. Here I found a nose of dusty potpourri, dried cherry and a hint of parchment. On the palate, lifted, feminine textures gave way to tart red berry and hints of cedar. It was persistent, yet a bit linear, ending with medium length and a bitter twang of tart red fruit. (<i>90 points</i>)
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-I_T2SRDU7Bg/WFmNEiXfm7I/AAAAAAAAOOY/p0y_8dGGh0owPaGOMfxdjox4G8Gb_Bx1wCLcB/s1600/Bruno_Giacosa_Santo_Stefano_1978.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="307" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-I_T2SRDU7Bg/WFmNEiXfm7I/AAAAAAAAOOY/p0y_8dGGh0owPaGOMfxdjox4G8Gb_Bx1wCLcB/s320/Bruno_Giacosa_Santo_Stefano_1978.jpg" width="320" /></a><b>1978 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano </b>- In a word... spellbinding. The '78 Barbaresco Santo Stefano took all of the lifted floral, cherry, minerals and spice that we love about this wine in its youth and transported them gracefully over 38 years of maturity to form a feminine, elegant wine of purity. It was a pleasure to drink, yet all I needed to truly enjoy it was the ability to take in its bouquet over and over again. Bright red floral fruits and dusty spices led to a palate with silky-soft textures and saturating dried berry tones. A hint of tannin still resonated through the finish, along with mouth-puckering acidity and notes of leather, cedar and inner floral tones. Stunning! (<i>95 points</i>)
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<b>1967 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili Riserva</b> - The ‘67 was beautiful in its maturity, as a wave of dusty earth, dried florals, minerals and a hint of caramel lifted from the glass. On the palate, it was zesty, displaying a mix of savory minerals, dried herbs and hints of worn spice. The finish was shorter than I’d hoped, yet still wonderfully balanced and refined, with a lingering hint of citrus, red berry and dried inner florals. (<i>91 points</i>)
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<b>1964 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva (Falletto)</b> - Having had the pleasure of tasting this during three different phases of its time open in bottle, I was at first greeted to a bouquet of dried flowers, dusty earth and parchment. Over the course of hours, the nose gained a deeper and dark persona, as dried black cherry, undergrowth and a slight musty aroma took hold. Yet hours later, the fruit came to the front, becoming more blue and black than red, with a exotic spiciness. On the palate, dark, pliant textures made themselves known, ushering in silky waves of dried fruit, herbs, dark soil and minerals. It was still youthful in its vibrancy, yet perfectly mature in tannin, finishing on iron-tinged minerality and with a sense of perfect balance. (<i>95 points</i>)
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<b>1961 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Speciale</b> - Sourced from the Gallina and Santo Stefano vineyards, the ‘61 Barbaresco was unexpectedly youthful and exuberant, showing a touch of volatility that contributed to its raciness. On the nose, I was greeted to a vibrant display of sweet florals and spices, gaining richness with time in the glass, adding dried orange, cedar and hints of dusty vanilla. On the palate, I found silky textures combined with racy acidity, showing dried cherry, mint and inner floral tones. The finish was long yet juicy, as saturating spice and red berry tones lingered long. Frankly, you’d never guess this wine’s age. (<i>94 points</i>)
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<i>Article, Tasting Notes, and Photos by Eric Guido
</i>Eric Guidohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16780641005168603049noreply@blogger.com17