Italian Wine In The Extreme: The Collisioni Experience

Article and Photos by: Eric Guido

You think you know Italian wine. You spend ten years studying and tasting. You research, you write, and you spend every spare moment immersing yourself in the topic. You also taste with individuals that share your passion, and you meet with visiting producers on a regular basis. Over time, you start to feel as if you have become an authority on the topic. Your friends believe you have mastered it, and you may have even have convinced yourself of this. Then you go to Collisioni, and you realize that all you know is just the tip of the iceberg.

My first introduction to Collisioni was through an e-mail I received from Ian d’Agata, who if you don’t already know is something of a jack-of-all-trades within the wine world. You can imagine that, with his experience as a wine writer and critic for Decanter, International Wine Cellar and now Vinous media, author of the Native Wine Grapes of Italy, Scientific Advisor for Vinitaly, and creative director of Collisioni, an email from Ian d’Agata is not something you ignore. Over the years, I’ve received many invitations to be included in trips and tasting tours, but this one really stood out. In fact, I was sold the second I read the invitation.

Collisioni started as a festival for music and literature, but it grew in a short time to encompass food and wine. What started as a small event hosting 10,000 in 2009 has now grown to expect 150,000+ attendees that fill the streets of the small town of Barolo. The preparation for such an event is a massive undertaking, and being one of the guests, I was able to watch as the town of Barolo went from sleepy streets to a bustling festival over the course of only a few days.

The best part is that the who’s who of Piedmont winemaking turned out for the event. Even producers who weren’t involved in the myriad of tastings, round tables and tours could still be seen walking the streets and taking in the many sights and sounds. As this was a festival born from music and literature, it seemed as if every corner held an attraction, with onlookers amassed throughout each nook and cranny of the cobblestone streets.

On one night, the entire city gathered to watch Elton John. If you can imagine the streets of Barolo, completely empty, as the sounds of “Rocket Man”, “Candle in The Wind”, and “I Guess That’s Why They Call It The Blues”, echoed throughout. Every soul seemed to be aligned that night with Elton John’s timeless setlist. It amazed me how everyone there seemed to connect during the show. Even people who didn’t seem interested in attending the concert earlier that day were found singing along. It was a magical evening.

The entire experience was something truly special.

However, what we are here to talk about is wine, which Collisioni excelled at, as it provided its guests with a selection of regional tastings from around Italy that were as challenging as they were interesting. We aren’t talking about the average room full of tables with which professionals tour in search of the handful of wines that stand out. Instead, this was five days of intense tastings, each done in a round table style with producers in attendance to answer all questions and a panel of specialists to comment and drive the conversations.

My attendance placed me tableside with producers in panel discussions and accessing wine in front of the crowd on a regular basis. Each night followed with a visit to a winery, where we were able to soak in the gorgeous surroundings of the region and taste with some of Piedmont’s best and up-and-coming producers. All this while surrounded by fellow professionals and experts from around the world. The days were long and not a moment was spent waiting for something to do–but you know what? I loved every second of it.

I’ve decided that the best way to honor this experience is to showcase a number of the standouts and most memorable moments.

Enter Dogliani

Isn’t it ironic that on a trip to the heart of Barolo, surrounded by producers and great wines, one of the most impactful evenings was spent with producers of Dolcetto Dogliani?

One of the main topics throughout our Collisioni experience was how Nebbiolo was slowly replacing all other varieties throughout the villages that make up the Barolo appellation. It’s believed that the days of seeing a Barbera or Dolcetto d’Alba will soon be over. This will leave a large void for lovers of Piedmont's other great varieties. However, in the case of Dolcetto, Dogliani has us covered.

First let me say that if you’ve tasted Dolcetto from anywhere else and decided that it’s not for you, then you owe it to yourself to taste a Dolcetto Dogliani.

Keep in mind that Dogliani has the same diverse terroir and rolling hills that your find throughout Barolo. The difference is that these producers take advantage of the best expositions to plant Dolcetto, not Nebbiolo. It’s difficult to compare Dogliani Dolcetto to one from any other location.

The best part is that, after tasting a number of wines from the 2105 vintage, now is the perfect time to jump into this region. These are tremendous examples of the variety, and the vintage is so easy to like. As for recommendations, I was smitten with examples from Addona Marziano, Chionetti, San Fereolo, and Einaudi.

Top Wine: San Fereolo Dogliani Superiore 2007 - The bouquet was positively refreshing and exotic with a mix of blackberry, and crushed raspberry fruits, followed by dried flowers and both sweet and savory spices. On the palate, it was alluring in it’s soft yet rich textures, and lifted by vibrant acidity and minerals, giving way to blackberry and plum fruit. It finished long and fresh as the fruit faded slowly to reveal fresh inner floral tones. Really this is just a pleasure to drink. (93+ points)

What’s a Lucana?

This was one of those moments when you realize that you knew much less than you thought you did. Sitting at our lunch pavillion (think of a buffet at a movie set, but make all the food Piedmontese), I stared at my schedule and noticed that the Regionale Lucana tasting was to follow. I asked the other guests at my table, “What’s a Lucana?”, and they all shrugged.

In the end, this was one of the best focus tastings of my trip. Lucana, otherwise known as Lucania, is also known as Basilicata (starting to make sense now?). Basilicata is a region of Southern Italy which borders Campania, and it is one of the few regions that has a coast on two sides of the boot. What it is also well known for is Monte Vulture, an extinct volcano, that gives its name to Aglianico del Vulture.

Aglianico del Vulture is a DOC that I’ve taken a lot of interest in over the years, since I believe that it has all of the potential and ingredients to be a world-class wine, but no one has come along as a champion for the region. The ingredients I speak of are first and foremost the variety, Aglianico, which is renowned for its use in creating Taurasi in Campania. Add to that the diverse volcanic soils, moderating influences from two seas, a large range of altitudes and degrees of elevation, and you’d think that Aglianico del Vulture would be the next big thing in Italy–but it’s not.

Why? Well that was what I was here to find out. Unfortunately, the reason seems to be more about growing pains and devotion than it is about a quick fix. If anything, this tasting revealed that there are a small number of quality-minded producers who are working very hard to put Aglianico del Vulture on the map. The problem is that there are many more who aren’t giving it their all.

That said, out of 28 wines tasted, the cream did rise to the top. Elena Fucci, Cantina di Venosa, Donato D’Angelo, Cantine del Notaio and Madonna delle Grazie all deserve your attention. (Tasting notes: Cellar Tracker)

Top Wine: Elena Fucci Titolo 2013 – The nose was wonderfully expressive, showing tobacco, earth and ash up front, followed by focused blackberry and notes of fresh herbs. On the palate, I found dark red fruits, pepper, violet florals, leather and youthful tannins. The finish was youthfully austere, yet complex in it’s black fruit, savory spice and fine tannin. I would love to see this wine again in five years. (93 points)

Nonino Grappa

In Italy, wine is food. It’s created to be enjoyed with a meal, and going back through history, it was often used as a way of surviving and fortifying oneself for a hard day. However, wine is seldom thought of in Italy as a “drink.” When dinner is over, and the time for a drink is upon you, Italians in the north reach for Grappa.

That’s not to say that Nonino Grappa should be thought of as just another spirit, because frankly it is so much more than that.

Located in Friuli, Nonino is a family-run company with a history going back over 100 years and can lay claim to the fact that they put Grappa on the map. Their success in the media and worldwide markets opened the minds of consumers and placed Grappa on their tables.

Yet, to this day, there is Grappa and then there is Nonino. After this experience, I believe it’s safe to say that much of this is the passion of the family who’s running the show. We tasted through six different variations of Nonino Grappa, each made from the pomace of varying grape varieties. For my tastes, it was the Grappa Nonino Monovitigno Il Moscato that stole the show, with its unending array of aromatics. In fact, each time I returned to the glass, there seemed to be an entirely new and exotic mix of aromas. This tasting made me a believer.

Build a Better Albe

Okay, in all honesty, I don’t think I could build a better Vajra Albe than Aldo Vaira himself, but I couldn’t help but try. This was one of the best tastings of our entire trip. After a day full of tasting and regional focus groups, we were sent off to Locanda in Cannubi, a restaurant located in the heart of Cannubi. The cuisine was phenomenal, with traditional regional specialties that were given a contemporary twist. The Bertolini-Boggione family do an amazing job here, since after a week of eating traditional foods, I found myself salivating over each plate that was placed in front of me.

However, the real honor was in sharing my table with Milena Vaira (Aldo’s wife), Ian d’Agata and two Masters of Wine. Seriously, how could we fail?

To be honest, it was a cutthroat competition, right up to the final announcement that our time was up. We took the more logical approach of blending by the percentage of Vajra’s holdings throughout the three vineyards that produce Albe (Fossati, La Volta, and Coste). In the end, Ian gave a last-second splash of La Volta that rounded our blend out nicely.

We were victorious.

But it bears mention that Levy Dalton, of “I’ll Drink to That” fame, demanded a rematch in 2017.

For the Love of Amarone

I have to admit, as difficult as I find it to keep Amarone in my personal rotation, I truly do love these wines. For many years now, I’ve been attending tastings with the Famiglia dell’Amarone d’Arte, and with each vintage I find myself enjoying them more and more. Frankly, they are easy to love. Especially since the organization was created to showcase the classical zone of the region and unite producers who were dedicated to upholding tradition and quality production. In the end, they are hedonistic wines of pure pleasure, but the hard part is maintaining refinement amidst all of the richness and intensity of Amarone. These are the producers who have mastered the art.

One thing I will say is that as we all become aware of two distinctly different styles of Amarone (the rich going on confectionary, versus the rich going on bitter and savory), I have to ask if there will ever be an official way to identify them on the shelf. A perfect example is the conversing styles of Speri (who I love for their classicism and poise) and Zenato (who I love for their ripeness, intensity and richness). If you are looking for a wine for a fatty steak, grab the Speri. If you are looking to pair something with a chunk of blue cheese, then Zenato is a match made in heaven. So how does the consumer tell the difference?

These are questions for another time. For now, my standouts were Tommasi, Speri, Tedeschi and Zenato. (Tasting Notes: Cellar Tracker)

Top Wine: Zenato Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva 2009 – The nose was deep, rich and intense with ripe cherry giving way to notes of orange peel, brown spice, dark chocolate, and hints of undergrowth. I found broad and silky, palate-coating textures contrasted by zesty bright cherry and spice. It finished with fine, classic tannins, bitters, sweet herbs and dried black cherry. It was big, rich, intense and hard to resist. An unapologetic Amarone. (95 points)

We’re in Piedmont; what about Barolo?

Barolo, I didn’t forget about you. How could a lifelong fan of Barolo and all things Nebbiolo not give these wines the spotlight they deserve?

So, yes, I did taste a lot of Barolo. Probably the most important data point I can provide is on the 2012 vintage, of which I tasted quite a bit. There are many publications that have gone on about the vintage conditions, so I won’t rehash that here, but I am happy to share some general observations.

The 2012 vintage falls into a shadow that is being cast by the power of the 2011s, the classicism of the 2010s, and the speculation over the much-touted 2013s. These are good wines, but the fact remains that they possess neither the vibrancy and drive of a warm vintage, nor the structure and refinement of a cool vintage. They are pretty wines that display the purity of nebbiolo fruit. Most have beautiful aromatics, but they lack the details on the palate that would round out the experience. There are standouts, as there are in all vintages, but the bulk of the wines lack any thrill factor.

So what do we do while we wait for 2013?

We backfill classic vintages (’04, ’06 and ’08) and look at the often overlooked 2011s. Many Barolo collectors have been conditioned to shun warmer vintages, but I believe this is a huge mistake when considering the 2011 vintage. They are ripe and often intense, but beneath all of that fruit is a structure of sweet tannin and a bold acidity that carries the wines gracefully. My opinion is that we will be drinking these wines twenty years from now and wondering why we didn’t buy more.

My 2012 Barolo Standouts: Giuseppe Rinaldi, Rocche Costamagna, and Giacomo Fenocchio. (Tasting Notes: Cellar Tracker)

Top Wine: Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate 2012 – The nose was soaring from the glass with a display of deep, dark red berry fruit, dried roses, tobacco, leather and savory spice. On the palate, wonderfully pure, silky textures ushered in ripe, bright cherry fruit, minerals and inner violet floral tones, as fine spicy tannin settled in and dried the sense. It finished more on subtle tannin, with fresh plum, cherry, and inner floral tones. There’s a Pinot Noir like elegance here, showing remarkably pretty and pure. (94 points)

Tidbits and outtakes (since I felt this was verging on a novelette):

• A person can live on a diet of Carne Cruda, Vitello Tonnato, e Pomodoro con Buffalo Mozzarella twice a day for a week straight.
• Verdicchio deserves more attention (See: Notes).
• I know just enough Italian to get into a lot of trouble.
• There’s a rumbling in Abruzzo; check out Tiberio (you’ll thank me later).
• Donnafugata Ben Rye may be the greatest dessert wine on earth.
• Tasting 32 Grignolinos sounds a lot worse than it really is. (See: Notes)
• Donatella Cinelli is doing some exciting work in Orcia.
• Senza Glutine doesn’t work as well in Piedmont as you might think.
• There’s more to Gavi than La Scolca.
• There’s a underground Terracotta aging movement in Piedmont (check out Rivetto).
• Piedmont is most definitely the most beautiful wine region on earth.

That’s all. In closing, I would like to thank Ian d’Agata for including me and the Collisioni team for all of their hard work. This was an undertaking of immense proportions. Well done!

Amarone: An Island Unto Itself

Touring through the wines of Italy is a journey of true diversity. This has a lot to do with how I fell in love with Italian wine; you simply can never get sick of it. If the austerity of Barolo becomes too much, then you can go to Tuscany for a glass of Chianti. If the food-craving acidity of Chianti leaves you longing, you can fall back on the ripe, round fruits of Sicily. You can go on and on like this, because Italy has it all, and in the thousands of grape varieties found there--you can be assured that there will always be something new and exciting. In my opinion, one of the most interesting, and sinfully enjoyable Italian wines, is Amarone.

Nowhere else in the world have I found a wine like Amarone. Many regions try to recreate it, and some make good wines, but a great Amarone is an island onto itself. These are wines of immense proportion, with a richness and weight that is seldom achieved, while maintaining a wine of balance. And balance is what Amarone is all about. It's the balance that allows Amarone to achieve +15% alcohol without seeming hot or flabby, and it's that same balance which marries intensely ripe fruit with a contrast of dark bitter flavors. Many great wines are compared to the grace of a ballerina with their underlying power--Amarone has all of that, yet with a sassy, extroverted personality that loves a good party.

There is one drawback: there is no such thing as cheap Amarone. Now that's not to say you can't find a good value, but keep in mind that it is all relative. We are talking about a wine that is essentially made from raisins (raisinated grapes to be precise). Those grapes must be grown and coddled in the vineyard like any other great wine. They must be harvested with the same care. However, what truly sets them apart is the drying process (appassimento), where the grapes are laid out on mats, or (more often today) in bins, to be dried for three to four months. Great care must be taken to avoid unwanted rot. When the process is complete, the juice of each grape has been greatly reduced. I'm sure you can imagine how difficult it must be to make wine from raisinated grapes, and all the while maintaining depth of flavor and fresh acidity. Hence, finding good Amarone under $40-$45 can be nearly impossible.

The good news is that these wines will give great wines from around the world a serious run for their money. So when you consider that a great Amarone may cost $75, it certainly looks very attractive next to +$150 wines from around the world. What's more, from my recent tasting of current releases, my top scoring wine happens to also be one of the most affordable.

I ask you to give these wines a chance, and spend the extra money. The proof will be in the glass, and they will impress almost any wine lover.

On To the Wines:

2009 Zenato Amarone della Valpolicella Classico – The nose was exuberant with medicinal cherry, crushed raspberry, dark chocolate, floral undergrowth and a hint of volatile acidity. On the palate, it was velvety smooth with intense, bright cherry, which remained fresh yet dense, with herbs, black licorice and spice. A slight bitter note lasted into the finish with spiced cherry and dark chocolate. It’s a beautiful wine! (95 points)

Producer website: Zenato
Avg. price $50
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2008 Brigaldara Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Case Vecie – The nose was massive with dark ripe fruit and earth, showing dark chocolate-covered cherry, crushed berry, hints of earth herbs and fresh turned soil. On the palate, it was big with velvety textures, saturating fruit and a fine tannic spine. Medicinal cherry and dark chocolate seemed to coat every inch of the palate, yet stayed fresh throughout the finish. (94 points)

Producer website: Brigaldara
Avg. price $52
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2008 Venturini Massimino Amarone della Valpolicella Classico – The nose was confectionary with ripe black cherry and cinnamon, yet turned savory in the glass as hints of undergrowth and wild herbs joined the mix. On the palate, it was weighty, yet silky with medicinal cherry, dark chocolate and savory herbs. The staying finish showed bitter cherry and dark chocolate, which seemed to go on and on. Very nice. (93 points)

Producer website: Venturini
Avg. price $45
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2008 Lorenzo Begali Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Monte Ca' Bianca – The nose was, at first, shy; yet with time in the glass, it began to blossom, showing dried cherry, blackberry, menthol, rock dust and a hint of volatile acidity, which helped more than hurt. On the palate, it showed soft, silky textures, but quickly turned tart and mouthwatering with dark fruits and black licorice. Tart cherry fruit seemed to encompass the senses throughout the long and seductive finish. WOW! (93 points)

Producer website: Begali Wine
Avg. price $67
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Allegrini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico – The nose was, all at once, sweet, savory and earthy, showing dried cherry, dusty spice, dark chocolate, floral undergrowth and hints of green stems. On the palate, it was dense with velvety textures, as bitter cherry and dark, dark chocolate notes saturated the senses, yet remained balanced throughout. The finish was dark with a hint of heat, and bitter chocolate and rosy floral perfumes persisted. (92 points)

Producer website: Allegrini
Avg. price $68
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2010 Tommasi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico – The nose was confectionary, showing plum, black cherry, medicinal herbs and bitter molasses. On the palate, it was soft with velvety textures as sweet dark fruit covered the palate with dark chocolate and holiday spice. The finish showed medicinal cherry and a hint of heat, which lingered long. (92 points)

Producer website: Tommasi
Avg. price $47
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Speri Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Monte Sant'Urbano – The nose came across as fruity, but savory, with black cherry followed by animal musk, floral perfumes and herbal tones. On the palate, it was bright with a medium body, showing tart cherry, dark chocolate, saline minerals and a medicinal herbal note. The finish was long, with a hint of heat showing bitter cherry. I often enjoy this wine, yet the 2009, as good as it is, seems to lack the energy of past vintages. (91 points)

Producer website: Speri
Avg. price $55
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Costasera – The nose showed cherry and sweet floral tones, animal musk and a cool, lifting herbal note. On the palate, it showed ripe red fruits, herbal hints, and saline minerals. The fruit turned tart through the finish with blackberry and cranberry notes, contrasted by fine tannins. (89 points)

Producer website: Masi Agricola
Avg. price $50
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2008 Azienda Agricola Musella Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva – The nose was at first restrained, yet with time in the glass began to show dusty spice, dried cherries, and hints of cranberry. I couldn’t help but be reminded of a child’s cherry candy. On the palate, spiced cherry and red licorice spread across the senses with soft and silky textures. The finish showed bitter cherry, yet seemed to lack depth. (88 points)

Producer website: Musella
Avg. price $50
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2007 Tenuta Sant'Antonio Amarone della Valpolicella Campo dei Gigli – The nose was restrained, yet with time in the glass began to show black cherry, dusty cocoa, airy floral notes and black licorice. On the palate, it was silky and smooth with weighty notes of bitter cherry, yet it lacked any serious depth. Cherry and cola notes fleshed out on the finish. Enjoyable, yet lacking character. (88 points)

Producer website: Tenuta Sant'Antonio
Avg. price $63
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2008 Tedeschi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Capitel Monte Olmi – The nose showed tart cherry, sour floral notes, green steams, green peas, and animal musk. On the palate, an impression of dark raspberry jam was kept fresh by vibrant acidity and excellent balance. The finish showed tannins complemented by dark red fruit, which was slightly bitter. (86 points)

Producer website: Tedeschi
Avg. price $82
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

Amarone: A Balanced Decadence

By Eric Guido

Can Amarone age well? Absolutely!

I had no intention of writing today, but when inspiration strikes, you go with it. In this case, that inspiration has come in the form of two excellent bottles of Amarone that I've enjoyed in the last 24 hours.

You can't drink Amarone every day, nor would I want it on a regular basis. It's a wine of hedonism and luxury that nearly overwhelms the senses--but not quite. When the time for Amarone arises, it's a moment that you are aware of, you crave it. It may be for a special occasion or in place of a dessert after a wonderful meal. Whatever the occasion may be, these are very special wines and they should have a place in your cellar because not only do they perform beautifully straight from the bottle, the best can age for decades.

Amarone hails from the Veneto region of Italy. These are wines that are made by the hand of man through processes like Recieto (Appassimento), where the harvested grapes are left to dry for months before being pressed, raising sugar (hence alcohol) levels and giving the wine a haunting level of depth, complexity and the ability to age. Be warned, however, that in the hands of some producers these techniques are used to cover up an otherwise inferior wine; but in the hands of quality producers they can create works of art.

Giuseppe Quintarelli "The Master of the Veneto"
Now gone, but has left a linage of great producers
of Amarone that were once his cellar or vineyard 
managers.  These are giant wines, with giant price tags.

When I think of Amarone, I think of a mix of sweet and savory, often seductive aromas, met by textures on the palate that lull you into a submissive state as dark, luxurious fruits, spices and sometimes confectionary elements that are balanced by a bitterness that is the call-card of a great Amarone. Acidity is also a key component. I think of experiences with Quintarelli and how fresh and vibrant they were, even with their lush, nearly dessert like aromas and flavors. However, don't think sweet when you think of Amarone, as the word Amarone itself translates to "the Great Bitter".

The following wines were all showstoppers from my recent tastings. Be warned, good Amarone is not cheap, but when the time is right, they are worth every penny.

2007 Fratelli Speri Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Monte Sant'Urbano - A dark, deep purple color in the glass. On the nose, a mix of dark cherry and blackberry dominated, hinting at herbal tones with notes of cinnamon, milk chocolate and undergrowth. It was like velvet on the palate with rich textures yet a surprisingly vibrant and elegant feel with a fine structure lurking beneath it's layered intensity. Ripe black fruits and dark chocolate saturated the senses with a bitter core that followed this wine from first sip through the long, vibrant finish. It was so obviously Italian in breed, but not what I've come to expect from Amarone, as there was a balance here, seldom found in a wine made through the recieto process. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher! / Producer Website

2006 Tommaso Bussola Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Tb - The nose was rich and slightly confectionary with cherry sauce, plum-raisin, fruit cake and spice cookie. On the palate, rich, velvety textures were met by brisk acidity to form a beautiful balance, yet there was a touch of noticeable alcohol, showing notes of brown sugar, raisin, sage, and molasses with a bitter twang that leaned this more toward savory than sweet. The finish was long with palate saturating black fruits, plum and black currant. This wine was on the richer, more hedonistic side of Amarone, yet still beautifully balanced. (94 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher! / Producer Website

2006 Azienda Agricola Musella Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva - The Musella Riserva was savory and sweet with notes of olive tapenade, cherry sauce, potpourri and dark soil tones. On the palate, it show excellent balance with brisk acidity which lent a juicy quality to the rich dried cherry, bitter chocolate and herbal flavors. The finish was long, showing inner floral notes and dried fruits.(94 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher! / Producer Website


And for the true masochists, I thought it would be insightful to post an older note from my experiences with one of the best Amarone I have had the pleasure of tasting.

1995 Giuseppe Quintarelli Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva - The 1995 Giuseppe Quintarelli Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva was a dark mahogany color with rich and wild aromas rising from the glass. I found it difficult to take that first sip because the aromatics were so seductive that I simply didn’t want to take my nose from the glass. Black cherry sauce with saw dust, and then butterscotch and hazelnuts which then turned to spiced ginger cookies and plum reduction. So many layers could be pulled away to continue finding descriptors in this wine and I was only sad that we didn’t have the time to spend hours with it. On the palate I found a menagerie of red fruits as cherry, then raspberry and cranberry filled the palate. Vanilla and milk chocolate, butter cream and roasted nuts with spicy cedar. However, with all this concentration, the wine remains finessed and fresh on the palate. Its 16.5% alcohol is nearly invisible due to the impeccable balance of this wine. The finish lingered for 30 plus seconds with cherry dark chocolate. (99 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Amarone Families: Embracing A Legacy

Autumn is here, and what better way to welcome it in than with a tasting of Amarone. Not just any Amarone either; this tasting included the top names in the industry, and each provided two bottles to showcase their new releases, as well as a library wine that would show how well Amarone ages. You heard me right; Amarone can age, and the results can be a truly beautiful thing.

The problem with aged Amarone is that it’s so hard to keep yourself from enjoying them in their youth. Only a few people ever put them away in the cellar for future exploration. I’ve had but a few in my time, and each experience was memorable to say the least. So imagine my delight when I was told that this tasting would include Amarone going back to 1988.

The hosts behind this tasting were a group of Amarone producers calling themselves “Amarone Families” or “Famiglie Dell’Amarone d’Arte.” Their mission is to show the differences in quality between an artisanal Amarone and one that is made in a mass-produced style. The fact is that the process for creating Amarone is being copied around the globe, as well as being done in mass throughout the Veneto. I remember when I first started getting into Italian wine, and a trusted retailer explained that you should expect a good Amarone to cost no less than $35 (that was eight years ago), the reason being the process that it takes to make this amazing wine. Imagine making wine from grapes that have been dried to the point of almost being raisins. Imagine the amount of grapes you need to make one bottle of wine. The numbers add up. I found this to be even more humorous as I received an e-mail today for a $24 Amarone.

So how did the wines perform? They were excellent. Most of the wines showed remarkable balance, plush textures, and freshness that was almost impossible to believe (like the 1988 Speri). As for the new releases, I found the ‘08s to be smaller in scale without the rich backbone that I usually associate with Amarone. These wines would actually do well with food, where an average Amarone might overwhelm it. The ‘07s, on the other hand, are big and rich with amazing textures and detailed fruit and spice.

On to the wines:

1988 - 2006 Amarone della Valpolicella

2007 Amarone della Valpolicella

2008 Amarone della Valpolicella

The Slow Wine Perspective

The news that Slow Food was separating from Gambero Rosso had been a question mark in the minds of many Gambero Rosso readers--until now. With the release of Slow Wine and the Slow Wine tasting event and press conference in NYC, we now have all the answers.

Essentially, Slow Food and Gambero Rosso went their separate ways over their differing set of principals. As editors Giancarlo Gariglio and Fabio Giavedoni put it, “Gambero Rosso focuses on the good, where Slow Wine looks to the good, clean and fair”. The good being the quality of the wine, the clean being the practices in the vineyard and the fair being the quality of the wine versus the cost of the bottle. It’s certainly an interesting approach and caters to the current concerns over sustainable practices and current economic situations around the world.

The question is, does Slow Wine really do the job that’s intended? The easy answer would be yes, especially since there are a large number of wines that are virtual newcomers in the American market, and their prices reflect it. However, what would have been a welcome addition would be a cost meter for different wines. Imagine the average green-loving and price conscience consumer trying to search out a bottle of 2004 Giacomo Conterno Monfortino; I doubt they would think its $450 price tag would be very fair. Of course, this is an extreme case but an excellent example. What Slow Wine does give you is the coin symbol, which represents a value-oriented bottle. This is joined by the “Snail” symbol for wineries that exhibit Slow Food values and the “bottle” symbol for “excellent average quality.”

So what separates Slow Wine from every other wine publication? Firstly, the format is very enjoyable, with a balanced mix of information about the growers, the land and the wine. However, what truly balled the audience over was the announcement that this book would contain no scores. The announcement was met with a nearly audible gasp from the crowd. Of course, it’s human nature to want to quantify everything. In the end, it’s better to look at Slow Wine as a guide to wine, not a guide to buying wine. With Slow Wine, I found myself actually reading for hours straight, something that I don’t do with the other publications.

In the end, it’s an excellent book that really brings to light some of the best grower/winemakers in Italy. It reads smoothly and is full of information about the regions, the land, the history and the people. It’s a welcome addition to any wine lover’s library.

The Slow Food, Slow Wine Website!

What about the wines?

The people at Slow Food also put together an excellent tasting with a large number of producers from the Slow Wine guide. Below are five of my top picks from the tasting… and out of respect for the folks that created Slow Wine, I decided not to include any scores.

2007 G. D. Vajra Barolo Bricco Delle Viole – It was a joy to taste the G.D. Vajra Bricco delle Viole. The nose showed an elegant, yet intense floral perfume with spiced cherries and floral stems. On the palate, it was feminine and balanced with cherries, strawberry and menthol, which provided an airy lift with a juicy mid-palate. It finished showing a fine tannic structure. This was one of the best ’07 Baroli I have tasted to date. (Slow Wine awarded this bottle their orange highlight, representing a ”Great Wine.” I wholeheartedly agree.) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2008 Corzano e Paterno Chianti I TreBorri Riserva – The nose was hallmark Tuscan with wild berries, tree bark and earth. On the palate, I found soft strawberry tones, with herbal tea and cedar. The finish was long and structured. The TreRorri Riserva was extremely enjoyable and one of my favorites of the vintage. (Corzano e Paterno was awarded the “Snail” symbol by Slow Wine, representing a winery that they “particularly like for the way it interprets Slow Food values.”)

2008 Fattoria di Felsina Chianti Classico Rancia Riserva – The ’08 Rancia was unexpectedly open at this young age. The nose showed red berries, cocoa powder and deep floral notes. On the palate, it was open and juicy with red berry fruits. The finish showed more of structure I was expecting. This is a fine example of Rancia that (in this year’s case) is more open in its youth than the Fontalloro. (Fattoria di Felsina was awarded the “Snail” symbol by Slow Wine, representing a winery that they “particularly like for the way it interprets Slow Food values.”) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2007 Prá Amarone Della Valpolicella – The nose was gorgeous with plum, raisin, minerals and undergrowth. On the palate, it was remarkably balanced and fresh yet still showed a tamed level of richness as notes of ripe black cherry and soil lingered into the long finish. (Pra was awarded the “Snail” symbol by Slow Wine, representing a winery that they “particularly like for the way it interprets Slow Food values.”)

2010 Velenosi Lacrima Di Morro D’Alba – The nose showed like a basket of fresh picked flowers with pepper, minerals and a healthy dose of earthiness. On the palate, it tasted like it smelled and had a gorgeous note of rose hips in its floral profile. It was a truly enjoyable bottle of wine for those who know and enjoy Lacrima. (Velenosi was awarded the “Bottle” symbol by Slow Wine, representing a winery “whose bottles represent excellent average quality.”) Find it on Wine-Searcher!