A Season of Change: 2013 Brunello di Montalcino

By: Eric Guido (Originally published at The Cellar Table Blog)

The timing of the annual Benvenuto Brunello tasting is as dependable as the changing of the seasons.  Each year, the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino brings producers together for a tour through Chicago and New York to show the new vintage and their new wines.  It has become the most reliable event for retailers and the press to get their first taste of Brunello in bottle, as well as a sneak peak of what’s ahead by sampling the current Rosso di Montalcino that’s presented.  This year was particularly exciting, as the producers showed off the highly-anticipated 2013 vintage, as we have all been waiting with bated breath.

Why?

The 2013 vintage represents the first opportunity, in the last two years, to add classically-styled Brunello to our cellars.  The warm vintage 2011s were rich, racy and ripe, but far from what the average Brunello lover is looking for, and 2012 fell flat, with stunning aromatics but little thrust or depth on the palate.  What’s more, the majority of producers did not produce any 2014 Brunello (a tremendously wet and disastrous vintage), and 2015 is being referred to as another hot vintage.  What this means to the buyer of Brunello di Montalcino is that, with the exception of paying top dollar in the secondary market for the highly-acclaimed 2010s, 2013 is our best bet to secure wine that will age, and we will easily enjoy over a decade or more.

Then came the mixed messages.

Bottle aging room at Biondi Santi

I find it odd in today’s world of social media and the sharing of information that so many mixed messages would exist around a vintage that has been aged and bottled for over a year now, but that’s exactly what we’ve seen.  Much of this is the result of the world’s leading critics wanting to wait for the release of their own reports to spread their opinions on a vintage (you can’t blame them for this, as it is their livelihood). Yet what has been said, from a report from James Suckling, is that the vintage is variable--and he’s right to a certain degree.  But it’s important to understand why.

The initial fears came as word was spread that there was rain during harvest.  However, the reality is that most producers picked their fruit prior to these rains--which led to the fear that producers didn’t obtain ideal ripeness.  This is absolutely not true, as I can attest to, having now tasted the wines for myself.  And then there is the fact that the Consorzio only rated the vintage four stars--all I can say to that is that the Consorzio rated the 2012 vintage with five stars (a vintage that fell flat on its face).

So why is there variability in 2013 Brunello?

One of the best aspects of Benvenuto Brunello is not only being able to taste the wines, but also to be able to talk to the producers and attend the focus tastings that are held before and during the event.  At this year’s focus tasting, we tasted and talked with Jeff Porter, the Beverage Operations Director at Batali & Bastianich Hospitality Group, and an all-around cool guy with an amazing depth of knowledge regarding Italian wine. He also happened to have been in Montalcino during the 2013 vintage.  In his opinion, the variability of 2013 lies in the conditions throughout the season and the willingness or ability of producers to put in the necessary work in to yield an ideal harvest.

What were the vintage conditions?

The 2013 vintage was the result of a cool and wet spring that led to uneven temperatures through the beginning of the summer.  From cool conditions, to warm and back to cool again, with rain scattered throughout, 2013 was like a vintage from the ‘60s or ‘70s.  What it didn’t have, which helped to maintain its classic character, were heat spikes.  As the summer ended, temperatures regulated and so did the precipitation, leading to ideal conditions through September.  The threat of rain in October (which scared many consumers) was avoided by most producers, as they picked early (a benefit of today’s weather tracking technology).  Some producers tried to wait out the rains, and they paid the price.

From Le Chiuse looking south to Montalcino

The problem with this vintage, that’s been considered cool, rainy, and like a throwback to another era, is that many producers didn’t understand how to cope with the conditions.  In a region like Montalcino, which is driven more by tourist dollars and could be considered the equivalent to a Napa Valley destination in Italy, the producers simply weren’t ready for a year like 2013--a season of constant change.

The good news: 2013 is a Classic vintage.  

Many of the top critics have hinted at 2013 being the next big vintage for Brunello di Montalcino. Often you need to read between the lines in their reports on Rosso di Montalcino, scour through their message boards, or stalk their social media, but in the end the message becomes clear.  It also became very clear to me while tasting at Benvenuto--and other Brunello events this past week.

The producers who put in the work succeeded in creating a selection of beautiful wines. In recent vintages, talk of location was very important, as the north and higher elevations did better through the warmer years, yet in 2013 this was not the case, as the vintage conditions remained relatively the same throughout.

You can expect medium-bodied wines with amazing finesse, vibrant acidity, a core of stimulating minerality and the structure to age.  In some cases, producers did pick too late, losing the necessary acidity or resulting in overripe fruit, but it’s important to keep in mind that this is the exception--not the rule.  I believe that lovers of old-styled, classic vintages will find a lot to like in 2013.  It’s not the knockout, bury-them-for-20-years that the 2010s were, but I find them to be an extremely enjoyable mix of the intensity of 2006, with the mineral-acid core of 2008, which is a pretty amazing combination.

Brunello lovers rejoice, because we finally have a vintage to love again.

On to the tasting notes

Tasting notes were developed through a combination of tasting at Benvenuto Brunello, as well as seated tastings both with and without producers in attendance.  Many wines were tasted more than once in different settings and from different bottles. Any wines that have been tasted since, excluding those following my joining Vinous, have been added and noted as such at the end of the note.

Voliero Brunello di Montalcino 2013 - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is deeply alluring with violette floral tones, black cherry, dusty spices, leather and hints of savory herbs. On the palate, I’m finding silky textures balanced by zesty acids with texturally-rich cherry and strawberry, sweet spices and minerals which all combine to form a beautifully balanced expression.  It finishes long with saturating dark berry fruits, spice, and fine tannin, yet remains energized by lingering acidity.  I’ve liked this wine in the past, but in 2013 it reached a whole new level. (96 points)

Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino Filo di Seta 2013 - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Filo di Seta is intense with a seductive and earthy mix of tart cherry, saline-minerals, dusty soil and mountainous herbs.  It’s silky-soft and textural, yet with zesty acidity providing balance, as dark red berry, spice, leather and mineral tones saturate the senses. The finish is incredibly long, resonating on a core of minerals with hints of fine tannin and persistent red berry fruits lingering long on the senses. (96 points)

Pian dell'Orino Brunello di Montalcino Vigneti del Versante 2013 - Here I’m finding an inviting display of ripe strawberry and cherry giving way to sweet minerals, savory herbal tones and hints of animal musk. On the palate, this boasts refined and silky textures, offset by an intense wave of spiced cherry, strawberry, saline minerals and sweet tannin. It’s youthfully linear yet perfectly focused and balanced with a sweet-and-sour play on the senses. Fine tannins firm up the finish, with lingering acidity allowing hints of dried red fruits, cedar and spice to shine through. This is a wine for the cellar, which I can’t wait to add to my own. (Retasted and updated 3/13/2018) (96 points)

Il Palazzone Brunello di Montalcino 2013 - The bouquet on the 2013 Brunello di Montalcino opens with a display of earth, undergrowth and animal musk, as notes of sweet and sour cherry, crushed flowers and fall leaves develop over time. This is a soft expression on the palate, as silky textures are contrasted by saline minerality, before notes of sweet spice and ripe strawberry join the mix. The finish is long and balanced, displaying fine tannin, tart cherry and a twang of savory herbs. This is an excellent vintage for Il Palazzone. (95 points)

Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino 2013 - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is rich, savory and quite dark on the nose, displaying black fruit and cherry with minerals and herbs filling in the details. With time in the glass, it develops to show crushed cherry and raspberry with hints of bell pepper. This is a refined and silky expression, as its textures caress the senses with dark red fruits, chalky extract, soft tannins and inner floral tones. The long, dark fruit finish seems to go on and on with hints of savory herbs and minerals.  I was fortunate enough to taste this twice and both times it was stunning. Simply gorgeous. (95 points)

Cerbaiola (Salvioni) Brunello di Montalcino 2013 - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is earthy and dark, with crushed stone minerality up front, giving way to woodland berries, strawberry, dark moist earth, and undergrowth. On the palate, I'm finding silky textures, with a twang of brisk acids, sweet-and-sour red fruits, spices, dried orange and minerals. It finishes fresh with lingering tannic heft, tart berries and mineral tones. This is a wine for the ages, earthy in the best possible way, while balanced by gorgeous fruit and regal structure. (Retasted and updated 10-18-2018) (95 points)

Capanna Brunello di Montalcino 2013 - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is wonderfully fresh yet intense, showing crushed strawberry and raspberry with dusty dry soil tones, fall leaves and hints of spice. On the palate, I found velvety textures which were perfectly balanced by a wave of fresh acidity, as dark red fruits and spice nearly enveloped the wine’s fine tannic structure--nearly. The long finish showcased classic tannin with notes of dried cherry, plum, sweet spice and earth tones. (95 points)

Il Marroneto Brunello di Montalcino 2013 - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is remarkably fresh and perfumed, displaying sweet, dried rosy florals, with animal-muskiness giving way to crushed bright cherry, stone dust and hints of cinnamon. This is silky yet lifted on the palate, showing amazing purity, as notes of floral-infused fresh cherry splash across the senses leaving a mix of brisk acidity and crunchy tannin. Pretty inner florals and spice mount throughout the finale, leading to a long and structured finish, yet still lively and fresh, showing earthy florals and lingering minerals. There was so much going on here, yet it’s also wonderfully refined. (Retasted and updated 1-29-2019) (94 points)

Mocali Brunello di Montalcino Vigna delle Raunate 2013 - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Raunate is dark, rich and spicy with dried orange, black tea, and crushed black cherry. On the palate, I found cool-toned, lifted textures with bright strawberry, dried florals and leather.  This was juicy to the core through vibrant acidity, as hints of fine tannin slowly set in. The finish was long with palate-satuarting red berry fruits and spice. (94 points)

Gianni Brunelli Brunello di Montalcino 2013 - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is dark-fruited yet lifted with hints of sweet dusty spice, minerals, strawberry, plum and dried flowers.  On the palate, I found soft, fleshy textures with dark strawberry, hints of mint and fine tannin, yet almost creamy with balanced acidity.  The finish was medium-long with wild berry, inner florals and hints of bitter cherry. (94 points)

Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino 2013 - The nose on the 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is gorgeous and spirited with its sweet, spicy personality, as dusty ripe cherry and wild herbs wafted up from the glass, and earth tones evolved over time.  On the palate, I found a silky, textural experience with lifting minerality, savory herbs and zesty acidity adding depth to its ripe cherry fruit.  The finish was long and classically structured, showing a lot of promise for the future. (94 points)

MastroJanni 2013 Brunello di Montalcino - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino lifts up with an intense woodsey display with dried flowers, dusty soil, tuscan spice and dried black cherry. On the palate, soft textures are offset by savory spices, with saline-minerals, ripe cherry, earthy sous-bois and balanced acidity, providing a pleasurable experience in contrast to the 2013s youthful tannins. The finish is long and spicy as zesty acids linger along with notes of mushroom and red berries. This is already so enjoyable on its energy and earth tones, yet there's so much more in store for the patient collector. (Retasted and updated 3/2/2018) (94 points)

Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Brunello di Montalcino 2013 - The nose on the 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is dark, showing licorice and lavender up front, with notes of undergrowth, moist earth, dusty spices and black cherry evolving with time in the glass.  On the palate, I found velvety textures balanced by zesty acidity with purple inner-floral tones, ripe strawberry, minerals and spice.  It finished long on fine saturating tannin, dried strawberry, and lively acidity that provided grip.  This was a beautifully balanced and enjoyable Brunello. (94 points)

Tiezzi Enzo Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Soccorso 2013 - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Soccorso is dark with dried strawberries, blackberry, brown spices, crushed stone minerality and undergrowth.  On the palate, I found angular dense textures yet still enveloping the acid-and-tannin mix, as tart cherry and wild berry fruits combined with zesty citrus-infused acidity.  The finish was long with cheek-puckering red berry fruit, leather tones and fine-grained tannin.  This has a long way to go in the cellar before showing it’s best, but is enjoyable today on its potential alone. (94 points) 

Fattoria dei Barbi Brunello di Montalcino 2013 - One of the standouts of my recent tastings, the Fattoria dei Barbi 2013 Brunello di Montalcino hits a perfect balance of earth, spice and minerality, that starts in the bouquet and follows through to the finish.  The nose shows dusty spiced strawberry and tart cherry backed by saline-minerals and hints of animal musk.  This is a soft yet zesty expression, showcasing ripe strawberry fruit with inner floral tones and a savory salty characteristic.  The finish is long with floral-laced tart red berries and hints of fine tannin.  The 2013 is already enjoyable today, yet it has a bright future ahead of it. (94 points)

Caprili 2013 Brunello di Montalcino - The bouquet of the 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is thrilling for a lover of traditional Brunello. Here I’m finding an earthy display, showing masses of crushed strawberry mixed with smoke, stone dust, dried florals, sweet sous-bois, and undergrowth. On the palate, soft textures are contrasted by brisk acidity as notes of ripe strawberry and cherry wash across the senses, followed by saline-minerality, spice and leathery notes. It’s fine tannins show through the long finish, along with salty, savory minerals and tart cherries. This is already beautiful but sure to improve over the next five to ten years. (Retasted and updated 3-29-2018) (93 points)

Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino 2013 - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is layered, dark and floral with crushed black cherry, plum, rich brown spices, wild herbs, hints of animal musk and undergrowth.  This boasts unbelievably silky textures with a dense mix of sour cherry, balsamic spice and saline-minerality, which creates a sweet-and-sour mix, as fine tannin mounts with each sip. The finish is long with saturating tart red fruits, minerals and grippy young tannins. (93 points) 

Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino 2013 - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is remarkably fresh and refined, displaying pure strawberry and cherry fruit, with dusty sweet floral tones and minerals. This has youthfully-lean textures with zesty acidity giving life to notes of tart cherry, spice and earth tones. It finishes long and structured with lasting dried berry fruit and hints of leather. (93 points)

Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino 2013 -  The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is wonderfully layered and deep, morphing between crushed cherry, strawberry and blueberry before gaining lift through mineral tones and floral undergrowth, along with hints of leather.  On the palate, this is a soft expression which is quickly contrasted by a wave of zesty acidity, as wild berry and orange-citrus-tinged spices saturate the senses. The finish is long with a mix of fresh fruits before light tannin takes control and saturates the senses. Wow, talk about a wine that’s easy to like, and it would probably have scored a bit higher in my book if it wasn’t already so drinkable. (93 points)

Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino 2013 - The2013 Brunello di Montalcino is deep and layered with sweet herbs, undergrowth, crushed strawberry, minerals, undergrowth and dusty spices.  Here I’m finding soft, silk textures with fleshy cherry, spices and zesty minerality.  This is juicy, spicy and fresh with fine tannins setting in through the finale, as zesty bright acidity gives life to dried strawberry and mineral tones. (93 points)

Mocali Brunello di Montalcino 2013 - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is dark, showing masses of crushed stone minerality, undergrowth, and black earth upfront, as notes of crushed strawberry and spice develop over time.  On the palate, this boasts soft textures offset by wild berries, spice, inner florals, and hints of animal musk that translate directly from the bouquet. The finish is long with chewy tannins, dried strawberry and hints of spice. (93 points)

San Filippo 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Le Lucere - It took a good hour for the 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Le Lucere to open up. With time in the glass this shows a beautiful bouquet of ripe, dark red fruit with sweet tobacco, herbs, and brown spices. Its velvety textures usher in ripe black cherry and strawberry, yet with a balancing wave of tannin and acid adding vibrancy, while minerals and spice tones saturated the senses. The finish is long, as the 2013’s structure starts to show, as each passing sip builds on the layer of tannin before it. This is a big wine, yet it achieves remarkable balance. (Retasted and updated 10-18-2018) (93 points)

Valdicava 2013 Brunello di Montalcino - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino shows spicy cherry, with sweet, sweet florals, hints of crushed stone and cedar with a twang of alpine herbs. On the palate, this boasts soft textures offset by zesty acids and spice as tart red fruits amass, along with minerals and red inner florals. The finish is long, with young tannins settling on the senses, as red berries, spices and saline minerals slowly faded. (Retasted and updated 10-22-2019) (93 points) 

Tiezzi Enzo Brunello di Montalcino Poggio Cerrino 2013 - The nose really pulls you in, as the 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Poggio Cerrino shows underbrush with crushed strawberry, cherries, brown spices, and dried flowers. This is wonderfully soft and soothing, with fleshy textures ushering in violet-inflected inner florals, darker-toned strawberry fruits and leather. Its acidity is balanced and lively, adding energy and verve, as the 2013 tapers off zesty and fresh lingering on tart berries and hints of spice. (92 points)

Scopetone Brunello di Montalcino 2013 - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is dark and intense with masses of crushed strawberry, blackberry, dusty sweet spice and leather.  This is cool-toned in style with silky textures giving way to a vivid mix of cherry and red berry fruits.  Juicy acidity adds vibrancy, as the 2013 finishes medium-long with tart currant and hints of spice.  What the 2013 Scopetone lacks in depth, it makes up for in sheer drinkability. (92 points)

Palazzo Brunello di Montalcino 2013 - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is pretty, showing dried floral tones with spiced black cherry.  On the palate, I found a zesty expression with black cherry, sweet spices, and minerals.  The finish was medium-long with an acid twang, dried black cherry and a hint of bitter herbs. (92 points)

Fanti Brunello di Montalcino 2013 - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is airy and fresh with sweet cherry and dusty floral tones. This provides a soft textural experience, as ripe berries and sweet spice combine with brisk acidity to create a very forward and “easy-to-like” expression.  The finish is medium-long and energetic, with ripe berry and spice tones lasting throughout.  I can’t imagine this wine maturing over the course of decades, but I’m not sure that matters with how enjoyable it is already. (92 points)

Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino La Casa 2013 - At first, the 2013 Brunello di Montalcino La Casa is withdrawn, yet it comes to life with time in the glass, showing dusty red berry fruits and dried flowers. On the palate, this is an angular expression with brisk acidity adding much needed energy, as spiced red berries and minerals flood the senses, then proceed to reveal saturating tannin with notions of salty minerals and crushed stone on the finish. I have to wonder just how this wine will evolve, as my impression leaves me thinking that the fruit may not outlive the structure. (92 points)

Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino 2013 - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is rich and very dark, as blackberry and notes of sweetened cream wafted up from the glass. With time, savory spices, undergrowth and leather emerge.  This is silky and dense on the palate, with caressing textures, dark red fruits, savory herbs and saline-minerality. The finish is long, showing the first signs of youthful tannin, as notes of dried cherry and minerals linger on and on. Being told that it’s a wine that’s made in a traditional manner, I was confused by its richness and textures--yet the proof of it’s quality is easily recognizable. (92 points)

La Magia Brunello di Montalcino 2013 - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is remarkably pretty and understated, showing cranberry, perfumed floral tones and a sweet dusting of spice. It’s wonderfully textural and dense on the palate, yet balanced through brisk acidity with a mix of rosy cherry, inner florals, dusty spices and hints of cedar. The finish is long and structured, resonating on sour cherry and cheek-puckering dry tannins. (92 points)

Poggio il Castellare Brunello di Montalcino 2013 - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is withdrawn at first, needing time in the glass to evolve and display pure red berry fruits, dusty earth and dried floral tones. Here I’m finding soft, velvety textures with dark red fruits, a cut of balancing acidity and saline minerality. The finish is youthfully dry with tart red berries, hints of leather and a lasting salty flourish. (91 points)

La Poderina 2013 Brunello di Montalcino - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is dark and rich, showing crushed black cherry, sweet herbs, smoky minerality, balsamic spices and a hint of fresh coffee bean. On the palate, I’m finding soft textures with tart red and black fruits, zesty acids, spice, leather, and inner floral tones. It finishes long and spicy, with saturating red fruits, resonating red florals and balsamic spice. (91 points)

La Fiorita Brunello di Montalcino 2013 - The bouquet of the 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is layered and deep with earth and underbrush up front, giving way to ripe black cherry, strawberry, and evolving to include crushed stone and moist soil. It’s silky textures give way to tart cherry and sweet spice, yet it lacks follow-through. The finish is medium-long and energetic through late-arriving acidity. (91 points)

Podere Brizio Brunello di Montalcino 2013 - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino shows crushed cherry, spice, dried flowers, and minerals, yet it’s also a bit dried out. On the palate, this displays soft textures with cherry, licorice and inner florals, in an airy and fresh expression.  The finish is long with spicy cherry saturating deeply, along with a coating of fine tannin. (92 points)

La Colombina Brunello di Montalcino 2013 - The nose of the 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is dark with notes of crushed blackberry, dusty spice, lavender and cedar.  On the palate, I’m finding soft, silky textures with ripe cherry, sweet spice, licorice and sweet fine tannin. This is driven and intense yet balanced with lively acidity.  The finish is long and spicy, with fine tannin gripping the senses.  The 2013 is already enjoyable and growing on me more and more as I taste it. (92 points)

Altesino Brunello di Montalcino - The 2013 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is pretty with a mix of red berries, spice and violet floral tones. On the palate, silky textures offset bright strawberry, and spices with brisk acidity and slightly chewy tannins. The finish is long, resonating with dried cherries, lingering acids and earth tones. (91 points)

Talenti Brunello di Montalcino 2013 - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is dark, showing black cherry, floral undergrowth, rich spices and moist earth.  On the palate, silky textures with dark red berry fruit and inner floral tones flesh out, as the experience turns more angular, with tannin mounting with each sip. The finish is medium in length with dark florals and black cherry.  It’s far from a bad wine, yet much of its appeal is only surface-deep. (90 points)

Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino 2013 - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino shows deep wild berries with earthy minerals and animal musk. On the palate, I’m finding a vibrant expression, as a mix of cherry and strawberry combined with notes of underbrush.  The finish iss shorter than I’d hoped, with hints of leather, spice and drying tannin. (90 points)

Col di Lamo Brunello di Montalcino 2013 - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is withdrawn at first, requiring quite a bit of coaxing before a bouquet of bright cherry and dusty florals emerge. On the palate, I’m finding a soft-plush expression with fleshy sweet cherry and hints of spice. The finish is energetic and medium-long, displaying a mix of zesty acidity together with saline-minerality. (89 points)

Poggio Nardone Brunello di Montalcino 2013 - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is dark and quite ripe, showing crushed black cherry, strawberry, sweet herbs, and undergrowth.  On the palate, this is a juicy expression with ripe blackberry, strawberry and sweet spices. Fine tannins settle in through the finale, along with hints of undergrowth and violet florals  This lack a bit of depth, leaning more on ripeness of fruit. (89 points)

Capanne Ricci Brunello di Montalcino 2013 - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino shows bright cherry and spice with hints of tobacco and dried flowers. Here I’m finding silky textures with persistent red berry fruit and sweet spice, yet it lacks the thrust of the best wines. The finish is medium in length, as a bump of acidity adds a lively tang to the finale. (88 points)

Casicano Tommasi Family Brunello di Montalcino 2013 - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino shows floral undergrowth with black cherry, marine-inspired minerality and savory herbs. This gives way to a silky expression on the palate with plum and sweet spice, yet it lacks depth and the necessary acidity to add energy and tension. The finish is medium-long with light tannin and hints of dried red fruits. (88 points)

Piancornello e Podere del Visciolo Brunello di Montalcino 2013 - The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino shows dusty spices up front with ripe red fruits and dusty florals.  This is a soft expression with flesh cherry and clove, but little else. The finish is saturating to the senses, as a mix of dry tannin and red and blue fruits hold firm. (87 points)

2010 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva: Worth Waiting For?

The market has been waiting for the 2010 Brunello Riservas, with hopes that critics will go even further beyond the lofty scores of the regular ’10 Brunellos. However, I for one don’t believe they’ll get their wish.

What do we love about 2010 Brunello? I really do hope that you have chosen to open one of two bottles buy now, because what 2010 has is something that I’ve never seen in such a classic vintage before…they’re drinkable. Young? YES. However, the 2010 Normale Brunellos have a brilliance and purity of fruit that is so intense, while also remaining refined, that it nearly envelopes the tannins. That’s the magic of 2010. Throughout 2015, the 2010s underwent a metamorphosis in the bottle. Frankly, it’s difficult to read many of the critics’ notes from early last year and then compare them to what we taste today—because the wines have gotten even better. I’m completely serious.

So what does that mean for the average 2010 Brunello Riserva? It means that the same brilliant fruit that I love about the vintage spent another year in oak—absorbing tannin and concentrating further. In my opinion, these wines didn’t require anything more than they already had. The extra year in oak unfortunately dominated much of the purity and drinkability that I found in most 2010s.

There are exceptions, of course. There are a small number of wines that come across as utterly classic, beautiful versions of Brunello Riserva, which deserve a place in our cellars. Great examples are Il Poggione, Stella di Campalto and Tenuta Buon Tempo, which was new producer for me, yet one of the top Riservas of the event. However, don’t expect to drink the majority of these wines for at least a decade, if not longer.

I’m really looking forward to tasting more of the Riservas, and I’m sure that some critics will disagree with my opinions; but from what’s I’ve tasted so far, the best example of 2010 Brunello Riserva are amazing, while the rest fall below their Brunello Normale counterparts.

On to the tasting notes:

2010 Il Poggione (Proprietá Franceschi) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli – The nose was dark and intense with ripe red fruits and dark floral tones offset by savory seared meat, smoke and minerals. On the palate, I found tart black cherry and herbs over a firm layer of acidity and tannin, which gave way to a long and structured finish full of inner floral tones and bitter cherry. This wine is classic to the core and one of my favorite ’10 Riservas tasted to date. Bury it in the cellar and good things will come. (96 points)

2010 Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano – The nose was deep, rich and intense with black cherry, brown spice, balsamic tones and sweet herbs. On the palate, it was as smooth as silk with the weight of velvet, showing rich raspberry, cedar, herbs and classic tannins. The finish was long on red fruit, along with notes of leather and crushed stone. This is so dark and brooding yet seduces the senses on its sheer, balanced mass. (96 points)

2010 Caprili Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose was dark and viral, showing dried cherry, savory spice, moist earth and a hint of grapefruit. On the palate, it was all at once silky, yet intense with tart, acid-driven red fruits, exotic spice citrus and floral tones. Tart cherry, inner floral tones and spiced citrus all came together on the finish displaying the wild side of Sangiovese. It’s an exotic and truly gorgeous wine. (94 points)

2010 Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – Dark and brooding yet full of potential, the 2010 Riserva opened up with a display of ripe strawberry, black cherry, and plum, along with floral perfumes and a hint of pepper. On the palate, it was dense, monolithic and hard to judge, yet there was a core of dark red fruit which seemed determined to one day explode. It finished on dried berries, leather and fine tannin. This is in need of time in the cellar, yet it should one day emerge as something truly special. (94 points)

2010 Tenuta Buon Tempo Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose was intense and layered, leading with dried earth and undergrowth, yet quickly switching gears to reveal ripe strawberry, cherry and fresh herbal tones. On the palate, silky textures gave way to minerals and fine tannin, as dark red fruits, spice and hints of leather permeated the senses. The finish was tight, youthfully so, yet concentrated, refined—classic. This is one of my favorite 2010 Riservas to date. (94 points)

2010 Podere Le Ripi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Lupi e Sirene – The Le Ripi was one of the more interesting and unique Brunello presented this year. Here I found a bouquet of dark earth and minerals up front, which opened to reveal plum, tart cherry, menthol and hints of herbs. On the palate, it was silky with a fine acid-tannin balance, dark cherry, and deep minerality. The finish was long with an almost salty display of bitters, cherry, minerals and herbs. I had to ask myself if I really liked this, yet the answer ended up being a resounding YES—and having watched it evolve in the glass, I believe the best is yet to come. (93 points)

2010 Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio All’Oro – The nose was dark and brooding, showing medicinal cherry, menthol and dark chocolate. On the palate, weighty textures flowed across the senses like heavy silk along with bitter black cherry and fine grained tannins. The long finish showed dark chocolate, black cherry, plum and herbal notes. The oak is quite present in this wine today, but it’s easy to see where it’s going and it reminds me quite a bit of the ’99 tasted earlier this year. (92 points)

2010 Azienda Palazzo Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – On the nose, I found a powerful display of dark red fruits, earth and forest floor. Silky textures contrasted by grippy tannin saturated the senses with intense dark fruits and spice on the palate. It finished long, as tannin coated the senses, along with dried red fruits, leather and hints of herbs. (92 points)

2010 Val di Suga (Angelini) Brunello di Montalcino Poggio al granchio – The nose was dark, perfumed and refined with classic dark red fruits, earth and hints of leather. On the palate, silky textures were firmed up by fine tannin, giving way to bitter dark fruits, earth and inner floral tones. The finish was structured with medium length, showing dried berries and herbs. (92 points)

2010 Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose was restrained, showing dark red fruits and floral perfumes. On the palate, I found soft textures followed by dark bitter cherry and tannin which swept across the senses and firmly took hold. It finished on inner floral tones and dried cherry. It was very hard to read in this youthful state, but my fear is that some of the brilliance of 2010 fruit may have been lost in this wine’s élevage. (91 points)

2010 Il Palazzone Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose displayed a dark, rich character with black cherry out front followed by chalky minerality. On the palate, it was soft with ripe red fruits, cedar and hints of spice, and it finished with dark inner floral tones. This is one of the softer and easier-to-like examples of 2010 Brunello that I’ve tasted, and it makes for a good option for early drinking. (91 points)

2010 Palazzina Le Macioche Brunello di Montalcino Le Macioche – The nose showed tart red fruits, plum, undergrowth and herbal tones. On the palate, silky textures were offset by brisk acidity with gripping tannin, tart red fruit and stems. The finish was medium-long with notes of dried red fruits. (90 points)

2010 Pian Delle Vigne (Antinori) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Ferrovia – The nose was dark and brooding with minerals and spice up front, followed by violet floral tones and crushed raspberry fruit. On the palate I found silky textures, which were quickly firmed up by the wine’s tannic structure, showing small red and blackberry fruit, spice and cedar. The finish was tight and restrained, with remnants of dried cherry and inner florals. I wanted to like this wine more, but I have to wonder if the fruit will outlast its imposing structure. (90 points)

2010 Piccini Brunello di Montalcino Villa Al Cortile Riserva – The nose was restrained and slightly reductive, showing notes of ripe cherry and rubber, with hints of sweet florals and herbs. On the palate, light red fruits with a bump of brisk acidity made themselves known, leading into a medium-long finish defined by mouth-coating tannins. (89 points)

2010 Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose was restrained, giving little more than dried berries, hints of spice and minerals. On the palate, I found ripe red fruits and inner floral tones on a feminine frame. It finished reserve with notes of strawberry and herbs. Frankly, I was a little confused here, as I would have thought this to be a Rosso or Brunello from a much cooler vintage. (89 points)

Article and Tasting Notes by: Eric Guido

Originally published at The Cellar Table