Showing posts with label 2009. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 2009. Show all posts

Saturday, October 8, 2011

Ridge: Wine from a "pre-industrial" time

Ridge: Lytton Springs Winery
and tasting room 
Ridge Vineyards is something of a best-kept secret amongst wine lovers in the know. The grapes are sourced from vineyards throughout Santa Cruz, Napa and Sonoma Valleys. It's a winery that prides itself on a history of creating some of the most enjoyable, fascinating, and age-worthy wines coming out of California. Their lineup includes bottles for the casual drinker all the way up to the aficionado, with wines that can be enjoyed today or cellared for decades.

L to R: Eric Baugher,
Paul Draper and, John Olney
So what makes them different? A commitment to quality; to not just producing wines that will sell, but instead to producing natural wines (or, as Ridge prefers to call them, “pre-industrial”) that will leave an impact. A commitment to place, with a list of vineyard specific bottles going back decades, in a region that is only now truly starting to rediscover terroir. However, Ridge's greatest attribute are its people, starting with its famed wine-maker, Paul Draper, but surly due, in no small part, to the hard work of the entire team at Ridge.

Monte Bello Vineyard
What’s more is that there is something for everyone at Ridge. Cabernet, Chardonnay, Rhone varietals and, of course, Zinfandel, which Ridge has become synonymous with. For me, it was the Zinfandel that pulled me in and the esteemed Monte Bello (Bordeaux blend) that sealed the deal.

Some of my favorite Ridge wines,
aging in my cellar.
Can you tell I'm smitten? How about this; Ridge Vineyards holds the number three spot of most cellar wines in my collection. They are only upstaged by Vietti and Giacomo Conterno, and this is coming from a wine lover that puts Italy ahead of all other wine-producing regions. I can't think of a better testimony to the quality of these wines.

Below, I've listed my recent tasting notes for some of their current-release red Zinfandels. They are all worth your attention.

From York Creek Vineyard
high on Spring Mountain.
2009 Ridge York Creek Zinfandel - The nose was like rich blackberry jam on a piece of freshly toasted bread but with a hint of undergrowth that kept it from being too over the top. On the palate, a kaleidoscope of wild berries and spice filled the senses, and this wine switched from sweet to tart and back to sweet again. The finish was long with ripe, spiced berries. This was a highly enjoyable Zinfandel that walked a fine line between ripe and overripe but lands decidedly on the positive side. (89 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!


Lytton Springs, Dry Creek Valley
boast some vines planted at the
turn of the last century.
2009 Ridge Lytton Springs - The nose showed red wild berries, a dusting of cinnamon sugar, hints of minerals and herbs, and a whiff of dark baker’s chocolate. On the palate, it was beautifully balanced and elegant with a firm start and juicy finish. Ripe red and blue fruits went from sweet to tart as it flowed across the palate. The finish was long and spicy. (92 points) Find it on: Wine Searcher!




Located in northern Sonoma
Valley, in a vineyard planted
over ninety years ago.
2009 Ridge Pagani Ranch Zinfandel - The nose was massive, as aromas of wild berries, dry coco, vanilla, ginger spice and savory notes filled the senses. On the palate, it was medium to full-bodied with amazing focus to its intense red berry fruit and spice. The masses of fruit slowly gave way to show this wine’s structure and balance. The finish was long and clinging to the palate, yet ultimately refreshing as the tannins faded away. I seriously enjoyed this structured Zinfandel and am very happy to have more in my cellar, as I can image that it will get even better with time. (93 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!


Ridge Vineyards Website!
Also check out Ridge's ATP (Advanced Tasting Program). One of the most unquie wine clubs in California, where members receive small production wines, from Zins to Rhone varietals, that are not available to the public. These are amazing wines that can't be found anywhere else.

Sunday, September 18, 2011

A Chile Revelation

Loving and collecting wine is like anything else in the world; something started you on the path. Maybe it was that ’96 Barolo after an intense Saturday dinner service, a special wine that a friend poured for you at an event, or a vacation you took in a wine region. No matter what the reason is, it left a mark on you and part of the reason you keep going is to try and recapture that moment. However, like anything else, those special moments don’t happen too often. In the end, you can find yourself going months without being surprised by a new wine or years without being impressed with a different region. 

However, once in a blue moon, those moments happen; and last night, I had one with the wines of Chile.

I’d say the most amazing part of this revelation was when I looked at the cost of my highest scoring bottles, which were both under $20. To have wine this good, at this price point; I think I’m in love.

One is a Cabernet of exceptional character and quality that can be enjoyed now, yet still has the ability to age. The other is made from Carmenere. “Carmen-what,” you say? Carmenere was once nothing more than a blending grape for Bordeaux that many believe had seen its last days; however, today it has found a new home in Chile and is thriving. The Terra Noble Carmenere Gran Reserva was like a Ballerina; all muscle and intensity, yet it glided effortlessly across the dance floor… err… palate.

On to the notes:
2009 Terra Noble Carmenere Gran Reserva – This wine was a showstopper as its expressive nose showed a balanced mix of red and black berries, pretty floral notes with a bit of stemy funk, and mocha and oak, which followed close behind. On the palate, it showed great balance as its rich body gave way to juicy blue and red berry fruit with cinnamon and black pepper. The finish was long, showing a mix of ripe berries. (94 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!
2008 Santa Carolina Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva de Familia – The nose showed intense, spicy blackberry jam, animal musk and coffee notes. On the palate, it was smooth and velvety, yet balanced with wild berries, dark chocolate, and subtle cinnamon. The finish was long and saturating with intense dark chocolate-covered dried cranberry. The tannins slowly melted away on the finish and showed great potential for the future of this wine. (92 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Casa Silva Carménère Reserva - On the nose, I found blackberry, chalk dust, green bell pepper and manure. On the palate, it was big yet balanced, showing wild berries, more green-pepper leading to a cough syrup like finish. Looking back on my notes, I feel as if these descriptors fail to do this wine justice. The fact is, it was highly enjoyable in a gripping and earthy way and the complete opposite of the Terra Noble. (92 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!
2010 Errazuriz Sauvignon Blanc Estate - The nose showed lemon with fresh cut grass, minerals and a bit of nuttiness. On the palate, this was mouth-filling with sour grapefruit, lime, minerals, and green apple. The finish was long with sour patch citrus fruits. Awesome value too. (90 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

Sunday, March 6, 2011

The Wines of Willi Schaefer

My exploration of German wines and Riesling in particular has led me to a number of exciting experiences. The more I taste these wines, submerge myself in the history of the producers and geography of the vineyards, the more I come to realize that Riesling will always find a place in my cellar. The idea that I have never taken the time to explore this region before seems ludicrous to me now. I am a convert to the love of Riesling.

As I continue my journey, poking and prodding willing retailers and reading the work of great bloggers and writers, certain standards emerge. Such as, while A.J. Adams is often referred to as the exciting newcomer of German Riesling, Willi Schaefer is the gold standard and offers well-priced, consistently excellent Rieslings.

Willi Schaefer is a small estate located in the commune of Bernkasel-Graach, of the Middle-Mosel. Willi, and his son Christof, have holdings in the Graacher Domprobst and Himmelreich vineyards, as well as Wehlener Sonnenuhr. The wines are known to be highly enjoyable in their youth, as well as aging beautifully in the cellar. They are also known for disappearing quickly off retailer’s shelves, as this is a producer who’s been turning out stellar wines longer than most of us have been old enough to drink them. That’s not to say it’s impossible, especially in today’s world of the Internet.

A great selection of Riesling at: Crush
Each of the wines below are of exceptional quality and provide great value. These are wines that will excite your palate and wow your guests. Further, if it’s mature Riesling that you love, the Kabinett and the Spätlese will do fine in your cellar. Lastly, keep your eyes open for the 2009 Mosel Himmelreich Grosses Gewachs from Willi Schaefer. This is one of Schaefer’s dry Rieslings, which my sources tell me, is amazing.

On to the notes:

2009 Willi Schaefer Riesling – The nose showed honeysuckle, white cherries, wax and a light citrus spritz. On the palate, I found pineapple, which went from sweet to sour as it washed across the tongue into a slightly short yet highly enjoyable finish. (88 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

2009 Willi Schaefer Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett – The nose on the Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett was less ripe but much more finessed than the regular Riesling. It showed pear, lemon custard and slate stone. On the palate, I found peach and pineapple with tongue-curling acidity balanced by a hint of sweetness. The finish was elegant and long with citrus notes. (90 points) Find it: Wine Searcher

2009 Willi Schaefer Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese – The nose showed grapefruit, slate dust, floral stems and hints of coconut. On the palate, I found a gorgeous balance of sweet verse acid with honey, minerals and light yet mouth-filling lemon. The finish was long and mouthwatering with intense citrus on the mid-palate. This is a nice step up from the Kabinett and an amazing value. (91 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

Monday, February 14, 2011

“The Italian Wine Masters,” Part 2 Chianti Classico

The Italian Wine Masters is a combined effort between The Consorzi Brunello di Montalcino, Chianti Classico, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore. It’s a trade show of sorts, where industry professionals and press are invited to meet the owners and representatives of over 100 wineries from Tuscany and the Veneto, Valdobbiadene wine growing region.

San Felice &  Lilliano Chianti Classico
When I arrived at The Italian Wine Masters, one of the first things on my mind was to develop a strategy. What to taste first, how much time to dedicate to each room, and how to pick producers to visit were the most important things to settle on if I was going to have a successful day. I was surprised to see that my first pick, to visit the Chianti Classico room first, was not a popular choice.

Most attendees flocked to Brunello di Montalcino or to the Prosecco room. However, I’m of the opinion that of all the wines that were represented, Chianti Classico offers the most enjoyment for the best value. Not only that; when I’m coming home from a hard day of work, I don’t feel like decanting a Brunello for a few hours or popping some bubbly; I simply feel like opening a bottle of Chianti Classico. If you don’t agree, then maybe you owe it to yourself to explore these wines a little deeper. Chianti Classico has come a long way in the last two decades.

There were always quality producers turning out remarkable bottles, but to find those producers in the overpopulated sea of mediocre Chianti was near impossible. However, things have changed, and Chianti Classico has made a serious comeback. It’s been a long time since Chianti was just a pizza parlor wine.
Some would say that the best bottles could even stand toe to toe with Brunello. Another development is how many producers are using more traditional blends (Sangiovese with Canaiolo or Colorino). In addition, many producers have begun to use 100% Sangiovese in their Chianti Classico. The end result, whether it’s a showy bottle or an unassuming dinner wine, is that Chianti Classico is truly defining itself as “the wine” of Tuscany.

Before delving into the notes, I would like to mention one other thing that I consider important when selecting these wines for your cellar.
The Chianti listed on these pages is truly Chianti Classico. “Classico” is referring to a specific appellation between Florence and Siena. If you find a bottle of “Chianti”, but not “Chianti Classico.” it will simply not be the same thing. “Chianti” was created for wines made around the “Chianti Classico” region, where they were made in the style of Chianti. Without getting into too many politics, I will say from experience that you will find a more reliable bottle of wine when choosing “Chianti Classico.”

The run-down (by score):
2004 Castello di Ama Chianti Classico (92 points)
2007 Fontodi Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo (92 points)
2007 Bibbiano Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Capannino (91 points)
2007 Castello di Ama Chianti Classico (91 points)
2006 Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Oro (91 points)
2007 Agricola San Felice Chianti Classico Riserva “Il Grigio” (91 points)
2006 Agricola San Felice Chianti Classico Riserva Poggio Rosso (91 points)
2006 Carpineto Chianti Classico Riserva (90 points)
2008 Bibbiano Chianti Classico Montornello (89 points)
2007 Capannelle Chianti Classico Riserva (89 points)
2006 Castello di Ama Chianti Classico (89 points)
2007 Fontodi Chianti Classico (89 points)
2008 Ruffino Chianti Classico Tenuta Santedame (89 points)
2008 Tenuta Lilliano Chianti Classico (89 points)
2007 Tenuta Lilliano Chianti Classico Riserva (89 points)
2008 Bibbiano Chianti Classico (88 points)
2009 Carpineto Chianti Classico (88 points)
2007 Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Tradizionale (88 points)
2008 Agricola San Felice Chianti Classico (88 points)

On to the notes:

2008 Bibbiano Chianti Classico – The nose showed wild berry and cranberry. On the palate, I found red fruit against refreshing acidity on a lean yet juicy frame that finished fresh. This would make a great house red for a relaxing weeknight. (88 points)

2008 Bibbiano Chianti Classico Montornello – The Montornello was more refined than the normale with cherry and licorice on the nose. The palate was slightly restrained by this wine’s fine structure but should open up in decanter. A gorgeous expression of spiced red fruit lingered on the finish. (89 points)

2007 Bibbiano Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Capannino – The nose showed cherry and dark woods with hints of cinnamon. On the palate, this wine showed a full, structured body with sweet red fruits and a fine, lingering finish. (91 points)

2007 Capannelle Chianti Classico Riserva – The nose showed ripe strawberry, leather and earthy undergrowth. The palate wasn’t as full as you’d expect from the nose, yet it’s balanced and showed dark red fruits and minerals into its medium-long finish. (89 points)

2009 Carpineto Chianti Classico – The nose showed raspberry, dark wood, undergrowth and a hint of manure in a rustic expression of Chianti. On the palate, I found vibrant red fruit that stayed through the finish. (88 points)

2006 Carpineto Chianti Classico Riserva – The 2006 Chianti Classico Riserva kept the same rustic feel on the nose as the normale but with more delineated fruit. On the palate, I found dark red fruits and cedar, leading into an enjoyably fresh finish. (90 points)

2004 Castello di Ama Chianti Classico – The 2004 Castello di Ama Chianti Classico, was easily one of the highlights of the tasting. The nose showed forest notes with earth, undergrowth, mint and cherries. On the palate, I found a beautiful balance of concentration and acidity as lush red fruit and wood was kept in check by the wine’s fine structure. (92 points)

2006 Castello di Ama Chianti Classico – The nose showed dark red fruits, savory beef notes and animal musk. On the palate, I found red fruit against a balanced frame but little else before the wine’s tannin numbed my palate. With age, this wine may blossom but on this day it was dwarfed by the structured 2004 and the rich 2007. (89 points)

2007 Castello di Ama Chianti Classico – On the nose, I found vibrant black cherry with spice and woodsy notes. The palate was full and bursting with flavors of mint and rich raspberry. The finish was medium-long with sweet red fruits lingering on the palate. (91 points)

2007 Fontodi Chianti Classico – The 2007 Fontodi Chianti Classico showed woodland aromatics with undergrowth and hint of evergreen ushering in its red fruits. On the palate, it showed its grace through light, yet well-focused red fruit with hints of tobacco and a bit of drying tannin going into the medium finish. Ultimately, this wine may need to be accompanied by food to reach its apogee. (89 points)

2007 Fontodi Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo – To drink this, and then have the 1999 later in the day, was an interesting peak into what was truly buried beneath the youthful structure of this wine. The 2007 showed red fruits with spice and vanilla on the nose. The palate was structured, showing mulling spice with leather and sour red berries. I believe it’s enjoyable now with a good decant, but it will be truly amazing if left to age in your cellar. (92 points)

2008 Ruffino Chianti Classico Tenuta Santedame – This wine showed perfumed, sour red berries on the nose, followed by forest notes. The palate was light yet juicy with red fruits, but a little dry into the finish. I was impressed by this unassuming Chianti and wouldn’t mind it with a plate of pasta and red sauce. (89 points)

2007 Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Tradizionale – The nose showed red fruits, clay and earth with hints of manure. It was a bit gruff on the palate and drying, which I’ve come to expect from this bottling. The finish was long with spiced red fruits. (88 points)

2006 Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Oro – On the nose, I found dark red fruits with hints of chalk dust. On the palate, it showed an ethereal elegance that I found lacking in the 2004. Hopefully this may be a sign of the producer moving away from the dark brooding character that this wine seemed to epitomize over the last few vintages. The palate showed vibrant black cherry with tobacco, minerals. The finish was long yet slightly tannic. This bottle may find its way into my cellar. (91 points)

2008 Agricola San Felice Chianti Classico – The nose showed crushed red berries, soil and green stems. On the palate, I found sweet, round fruit with a nice balance of acidity. (88 points)

2007 Agricola San Felice Chianti Classico Riserva “Il Grigio” – The nose showed animal musk and dusty black cherry. On the palate, I found vibrant strawberry fruit, spice and earthy minerals. This wine is well structured and has great balance. It was a pleasure to drink. (91 points)

2006 Agricola San Felice Chianti Classico Riserva Poggio Rosso – The nose showed candied cranberry fruit with spice and mint. On the palate, I found red and black fruits with hints of wood on a velvety full body. The finish is long and staying but a bit sweeter than I usually prefer. However, there’s no denying the quality in the glass. (91 points)

2008 Tenuta Lilliano Chianti Classico – The nose showed cherry and earth with notes of forest floor. On the palate, I found round red fruits with hints of violet candies. The finish was long and showed cinnamon and spice. (89 points)

2007 Tenuta Lilliano Chianti Classico Riserva – The nose showed red fruit and pecorino. On the palate, I found silky raspberry fruit and licorice. The finish was pleasant and juicy. (89 points)

Thursday, January 27, 2011

A Riesling Resolution

Last night, I found myself sipping a Riesling at Sojourn Restaurant on the Upper East Side. As I sat there, admiring its bold flavors and mouth-watering acidity, the Sommelier came over to introduce himself. A few moments later, he asked what I thought of the wine. After a brief exchange about what was in the glass, he went on to explain his frustration over how few people appreciate Riesling. It is such a versatile wine, capable of expressing itself beautifully from bone-dry all the way to sticky sweet and all the while saturating yet stimulating your palate… So why don't more people drink Riesling?

“Maybe it's the Tolkienesque script on the bottles,” I replied. Or that the average person doesn't know the difference between a Kabinett and an Auslese, a Trocken or a Feinherb. Or, maybe, it's that the average wine and liquor store doesn't provide a quality selection or one that even comes close to representing what the region is capable of. In fact, I think it's all of these things… One thing I’m sure of, however, is that Riesling is worth overcoming these challenges.

Thinking back over the last few years, there are a lot of great wines that stick out in my mind. Among those wines is a smattering of whites, which convinced me long ago that if I’m going to drink white wine, I want it to be Riesling. However, it seemed that each time I wanted to put some effort into experimenting with the varietal, something Italian would come along and turn my head. And so, I decided to make a commitment; that 2011 will be the year in which I truly explore Riesling, and it’s a journey that I hope you will take with me.

Like any journey into unknown territory, I required a guide. After polling the opinions of many trusted sources, the decision was unanimous: The staff at Crush: Wine and Spirits, were the people to see. One glance at their inventory and the writings/blogging of Wine Director, Stephen Bitterolf was all I needed to know that this team was serious about Riesling, and they have been more than helpful in getting me started.

So where to start? In my opinion, the biggest challenge with Riesling is in understanding the different styles and what to expect, as well as what you prefer. And so, I opted to try a lineup of wines from one producer in the region who came highly recommended: A.J. Adam.

Mention the name A.J. Adam in the company of an experienced Riesling aficionado and the least you’ll get is a nod of respect. However, it’s more likely that the response will be one of admiration and genuine excitement about this young producer, who has only started to recently craft wines under the name “A.J. Adam.”

Andreas Adam, of the Middle Mosel, is best known for a collection of wines made from the Hofberg vineyard, with a soil composition of mostly weathered slate and clay. These wines are wonderfully rich and full yet somehow electric through a whip of vibrant acidity that excites the palate. Recently, he has also crafted a Grosses Gewächs (Germany’s version of a Grand Cru) from the Goldtropfchen vineyard. It’s a dry wine that is spellbinding on the nose with a massive amount of flavor and character on the palate. All the wines were amazing, and picking which ones to add to my cellar was near impossible.

If you don’t know Riesling, A.J. Adam is a great place to start. Readers can also expect many more updates such as these throughout 2011, as I continue to explore this amazing region. For those of you that love the little details there are many to follow. For now, permit me to simply introduce you to four very special wines, and the best part is my top scoring bottle also happens to be the best priced around $26.

On to the Wines:

2009 A.J. Adam Piesporter Goldtropfchen GG – The color of A.J. Adam Goldtropfchen was of pure white gold. In the nose, spring flowers and grapefruit assaulted my senses as aromas of raw almonds and burnt butter followed behind adding subtle complexities. On the palate I found sour lemon drops with minerals and a touch of green grass. The flavors turned to sour apple as this wine’s tongue-curling acidity turned what was originally a perception of a full-bodied wine into something ethereal and light as a feather. The lasting finish showed lemon and lime with hints of salinity. Today, this wine is almost too much to drink, but with proper cellaring, may one day be truly magical. (92 points)

2009 A.J. Adam Dhroner Hofberg Riesling Feinherb – In the nose, this showed lemon and wet slate with a hint of honey and kiwi. On the palate, I found ripe peach, apple and stone with just the slightest kiss of sweetness. This was velvety and mouth-coating, followed by a mouthwatering finish of lemon and lime. The Hofberger Feinherb would be a perfect alternative to the Kabinett for a taster who prefers a bit less residual sugar. However, I still found the Kabinett to be a more complete wine. (91 points)

2009 A.J. Adam Dhroner Hofberg Riesling Kabinett - The nose was at first ungiving, but with some time in the glass, this wine bloomed with fresh brioche, slate dust, citrus and white flower petals. On the palate, I found a hint of sweetness balanced by tart lemon curd and clotted cream, which showed incredible mouth-filling richness that was suddenly wisped away, and turned refreshing, by lively acidity. The finish was like that perfect glass of lemonade on a steaming hot day. This is a bottle to wow your guests with or simply treat yourself to the depths of which Riesling is capable of. (93 points)

2009 A.J. Adam Dhroner Hofberg Riesling Spatlese – Aromas of lime, walnut and green apple wafted up from the glass. On the palate, this was weighty yet still fresh with flavors of honeydew melon and grapefruit playing a sweet and sour act across the tongue. There was a perceptible amount of sweetness, but this didn’t come across as sweet; instead it was full, balanced and bursting with flavor. The finish was long with citrus fruit and a hint of toasty pecan. This bottle is gorgeous now, yet I can’t help but wonder how great it will be in 10 to 15 years. (92 points)

Also see: The Wines of Willi Schaefer

Friday, January 7, 2011

Food and Wine in December

December tends to be my busiest time of year and usually keeps me away from tasting as much as I’d like. Luckily, I was still able to find a few diamonds in the rough. Through December, I was able to taste an amazing white from Piedmont that anyone who loves white wine should know about, some great vintage Vin Santo that’s available and affordable, and a truly exciting yet stylish Cab Franc from Long Island.

However, December wasn’t all about wine. What’s Cookin’ also released one of my newest articles “Eric Guido’s Eggplant Parmigiana” a recipe that comes right from my heart. This is serious Italian American homestyle cooking that was taught to me by my grandmother and hardly changed by my trained hand. Why mess with perfection?

Eric Guido's Eggplant Parmigiana

If you were to ask any of my friends or clients about my specialty, they would quickly inform you that it’s risotto. However, it wasn’t always so. Long before my professional career and formal training, I was a cook that depended on what I learned as a child. The rich Italian-American cooking of my family was my strong suit and, more than anything else, it was my grandmother’s Eggplant Parmigiana... (For the full article and recipe, visit: What's Cookin

On to the wines:

Arneis is a white grape indigenous to Piedmont, Italy. Many bottles of Arneis are easily forgettable, but in the hands of some producers (Bruno Giacosa & Vietti come to mind), they are gorgeous, showing white flowers and citrus fruits, with a mix of richness and finesse on the palate. This one is the best I’ve tasted to date:

2009 Bruno Giacosa Roero Arneis - On the nose, I found white flowers and citrus zest with hints of honey and slight toastiness. The palate was crisp and fresh yet still showed weight with flavors of sweet peach, apricots and cream. The finish was fresh and floral. This may be the best Arneis I’ve ever had. (91 Points)

Find it on Wine-Searcher!

The North Fork of Long Island continues to push its way into the world of fine wine but it’s an uphill battle. Nonetheless, many quality producers are determined to show what the North Fork is capable of (Shinn and Paumanok come to mind). The bottle below, from Vineyard 48, was thoroughly enjoyable. Think an official visit to the North Fork is in order for later this year.

2007 Vineyard 48 Cabernet Franc Reserve - The nose showed licorice and cherry liquor with a hint of musky animal fur and new oak. On the palate, I found strawberry fruit, milk chocolate and sweet vanilla on a full bodied frame. The finish was long and fresh with red fruits. This was very enjoyable and with enough character to cut through the rich fruit. (90 Points)

For more information, visit: Vineyard 48

Vin Santo is not a wine you see at many tastings and events these days. The fact is, dessert wines fell out of style a while back and it’s because of this that you don’t see quality Vin Santo adorning the shelves of your trusted wine merchant. However, this almost forgotten style, in the United States, is still the pride of many Tuscan winemakers portfolios. I was lucky enough to taste a ’90 Vin Santo about two years ago and it changed the way I thought about this wine. So it might be sweet… but it also possesses depths of flavors and nuances unheard of in dry wines. I highly recommend that my readers try a good aged Vin Santo, and the one below would be a great place to start.

1994 Isole e Olena Vin Santo del Chianti Classico - Roasted almond, varnish, orange peel, chestnut and smoke filled out the nose of this beautiful Vin Santo. The palate was perfectly resolved, yet lively, with acidity and sweet caramel followed by roasting nuts and a hint of tropical fruit. The finish was over a minute long with vibrant acidity, showing nuts and orange that faded into warm wood tones. (92 Points)

I found this great bottle at: Grapes: The Wine Company