Germany’s Nail-Biter Vintage: 2016

2016 German Riesling Review

By Eric Guido

Better Late Than Never

In the past, I’ve shared my insights on Germany’s newest vintage releases in the late spring or summer, as I would wrap up my tastings of wines that were brought over by producers to taste with the media and industry, but something about the 2016’s gave me pause.  As I tasted the wines, I couldn’t help but feel that they hadn’t quite reached the point that anyone should be tasting them.  They were like unruly teenagers, with all of the anxiety, self-conscious mood-swings, and over compensation when in the spotlight.  Most of the wines seemed disjointed and some even seemed hollow.  Many of the wines from my favorite producers left me feeling unsatisfied--which is what really gave me pause.  

I made the decision that I needed to taste these wines again, when they had more time in bottle to settle and get their footing, so to speak.  In the end, I’m glad I waited, because what I’m tasting now has me smiling from ear to ear.

What to Expect from 2016 German Riesling

The 2016s are in many cases very immediate wines with rich textures and an acidic spine that takes a back seat compared to vintages like ‘14 and ‘15. Yet these are wonderfully balanced wines and so hard to resist already, and for those who love minerality--there’s plenty to spare.

The 2016 vintage in Germany was a nail-biter for winemakers. The season started with a warmer-than-average winter that accelerated budbreak, and was followed by spring frost through much of the country and even into Austria. Flowering was late and yields looked to be down, but this didn’t deter growers from remaining positive. It wasn’t until the rains came--and didn’t stop until into July--that most producers realized that there may be reason for worry. Then came the heat, which started out as humid, causing bacterial infections and rot in the bunches. The humidity left, but the heat did not, as it remained throughout August. Growers who worked the vineyards, trimmed bad fruit and sprayed survived through these conditions, but some vineyards lost their entire crop.

Then September came and with it the only weather that could save such a vintage--warm dry days and cool nights. The well-manicured vineyards were able to recover health, yet yields were down by up to 30% across the region. Growers suddenly went from biting their nails to realizing that they could harvest at their leisure. Mother Nature had saved the day, but it would remain a small vintage with wines that spoke more of a winemaker's prowess than anything else.

Where To Look and What to Buy

For my tastes, I’ve found the most pleasure in the feinherb style of Riesling--those with just enough residual sugar to balance out the intense acidity and minerality. These wines are already drinking beautifully.  A good example is Peter Lauer’s Senior, as my household has gone through six bottles, yet I only have one tasting note, because the wine is so easy to love that it just disappears before I can pick up a pen.

As for the dry wines (Trocken) and Grosses Gewächs, it’s apparent that these are in need of some time to truly stretch out and begin drinking well.  My experience with the Julian Haart Wintricher Ohligsberg was a testament to that, as the wine was so tense that it nearly sizzled on the senses.  I would place these in the mid-term aging department, with five years in the cellar as my best guess to when they’ll start to really show off.

Then there are the Pradikat wines, Kabinett, Spatlese and Auslese.  From my tastings the category of Kabinett shows beautifully in this vintage with amazing delicacy and sweet fruit flavors, which, when balanced with heightened minerality, (think Weiser-Künstler Wolfer Sonnenlay) creates a stunning display.  It’s also worth mentioning that this specific wine has an alcohol level of only 7.5%, yet it’s impeccably balanced.  

In my opinion, It would be a huge mistake to pass on the 2016s.  Not only are so many of them drinking amazingly well already, but many of them also have very bright futures ahead of them.  Frankly, I can’t wait for my next taste.  Below are some of my favorites to date.

On to the tasting notes:

Peter Lauer Ayler Kupp Stirn Fass 15 Feinherb 2016 - The nose was mineral-driven and intense with crushed limestone giving way to ripe peach, granny smith apple and fresh green herbs. On the palate it was medium-bodied and soft, backed but vibrant acidity which was nearly hidden beneath notes of ripe mango, lime and a spritz of penetrating, sweet, vibrant minerality. It finished on tart citrus tones and zesty acid with caking stone dust minerals on the senses. Very nice. (93 points)

Julian Haart Wintricher Ohligsberg Riesling Großes Gewächs 2016 - The nose was intense with crushed limestone, wild herbs, tart lime citrus, and spicy floral tones. On the palate, I found soft textures, yet with understated tension, as saline minerality, lime citrus and zesty acidity barreled their way across the senses. It finished long and tart with lime citrus and inner floral tones. (93 points)

Weingut Keller Riesling Westhofen -KR- 2016 - Of all of the '16s I've tried to date, this is the most tightly wound and in need of serious time to come around. Here I found an austere, almost Burgundian bouquet of white pit fruits, wild herbs, (I swear there's a hint of vanilla), almond skins and grapefruit. On the palate, it was focused like a saber, precise and intense with a tart apple, pineapple, lime and a mineral mix. The finish was long with saturating minerality, green citrus tones and cheek-puckering acidity. I'm not sure where this is going, but I can't wait to find out. (93 points) 

Weiser-Künstler Enkircher Steffensberg Riesling 2016 - The nose was almost savory in it's display of floral undergrowth, saline-minerality, rosemary and lime zest, as notes of honeysuckle and ripe apple came forward with time in the glass. On the palate, I found a zesty expression, yet ultimately with soft textures, showing salty citrus, wild herbs, green apple and wonderfully balanced acidity. It finished on saturating minerality, with ripe apple and an almost oily texture coating on the senses. (92 points)

Weingut Keller Riesling von der Fels 2016 - The '16 Von der Fels was gorgeous, with an almost savory bouquet, displaying provencal herbs up front, followed by notes of green apple, lemon, and crushed seashell. On the palate, I found weighty textures, yet nearly imperceptible; the result of a mix of intense tart citrus, zippy acidity and saline-minerality with a spring of lemon zest and savory herbs that revisited toward the close. The finish was fresh with a lasting buzz of mineral-strewn citrus and minerals. The longer this wine sat in the glass, the more it seemed to grow. (92 points)

Peter Lauer Ayler Riesling Senior Faß 6 2016 - Here I found wonderful inner florals, with savory spice and lemon tones. It displayed great density for the vintage with rich textures offset by saline-minerality, ripe apple and zesty acidity. The finish was long with gorgeous inner floral tones and hints of citrus. (92 points)

Schäfer-Fröhlich Riesling Vulkangestein trocken 2016 - The nose was intense, savory, almost briny, yet so pleasurable, as notes of olive, seafoam and crushed stone were offset by green apple, melon and fresh herbs.  On the palate, I found soft textures contrasted by stunning minerality and a zing of vibrant acidity with notes of tart apple, lemon rind and spice.  It seemed to buzz of the finish, as zesty acidity lingering among citrus tinged minerals. (91 points)

Weiser-Künstler Riesling Wolfer Sonnenlay Kabinett 2016 - The bouquet alone is making me hungry with a savory, saline and mineral burst, followed by lemon rind, crushed seashells and yellow flowers. On the palate, I found a zesty expression of tart acid and lemon-lime intensity mixed with ripe apple and spices. It lingered long on the finish, with a tart mineral-driven display as saturating citrus tones slowly faded. (91 points)

Julian Haart Piesporter Schubertslay Riesling Kabinett 2016 - The nose showed intense minerality with crushed stone, lime, and sweet florals. On the palate, I found soft textures with peach, apple and hints of lemon, sweet inner florals and refreshing acidity. It finished clean with lasting ripe peach and hints of citrus rind. (91 points)

Weingut Keller Riesling Limestone 2016 - The nose showed intense lemon citrus with masses of crushed stone minerality, hints of mango, and savory herbs. On the palate, I found soft, weighty textures with a coating ripe lemon and green apple acidity that saturated the senses, forcing the mouth to water. It finished on cheek-puckering minerality, inner florals and citrus pith, yet through it all a note of ripe green apple resonated. This is so good that it’s almost impossible to put down. (91 points)

Dönnhoff Roxheimer Höllenpfad Riesling trocken 2016 - The nose showed sweet florals, young peach, and a hint of lime. On the palate, I found soft textures with ripe lime citrus, minerals and exotic tropical tones. I wanted more energy in the finish, yet that’s splitting hairs and the Hollenpfad is highly enjoyable for current drinking. (90 points)

Gunderloch Riesling Rothenberg Spatlese 2016 - The nose was wonderfully floral with airy minerals, hints of citrus and kiwi.  On the palate, I found silky textures lifted by stunning acidity with notes of ripe apple and mango.  It finished long with a sweet and sour display of stone fruit and tropical tones, all the while providing a sensation of energy and verve.  Very nice. (92 points)

Schäfer-Fröhlich Riesling Felseneck Spätlese 2016 - The Felseneck Spatlese was gorgeous, with a display of crushed stone minerals with ripe apple, and sweet citrus tones.  On the palate, I found a weighty-silky textures offset by vibrant acidity mixed with intense minerals and hints of green herbs before a mix of ripe pear, apple and peach washed over the senses.  It finished long, layered and complex showing amazing balance and lingering acids.  This is one for the cellar, and a standout of the vintage. (93 points)

Schloss Lieser Riesling Brauneberger Juffer Kabinett 2016 - The nose was incredibly fresh with minerals and notes of post-fermentation funk in the foreground, followed by dried flowers and ripe peaches. On the palate, I found soft textures with sweet and sour apple, floral peach and hints of spice.  It finished long with notes of ripe apple, contrasted by a sour-patch lemony sensation of acid and sweetness.  It’s more of a fun wine that a showstopper and really packs a punch. (90 points)

Schloss Lieser Riesling Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett 2016 - The nose was intense with a display of minerals, crushed stone and dried flowers up front, ripe apple and peach tones followed shortly after.  On the palate, I found great textural depth with gobs of minerality to offset, leading to peach and tropical fruits with inner floral tones providing lift.  It finished long and textural, as it’s ripe fruits seemed to slowly melt away from the senses.  This is a Kabinett?  I’d think more Spatlese--but I’m loving it all the same.  (92 points)

Schloss Lieser Riesling Niederberg Helden Spätlese 2016 - The nose showed crushed stone minerality with with dusty florals and ripe peaches. On the palate I found silky textures with notes ripe peach, a zing of brisk acidity, lemony citrus, and nectarine.  The finish was incredibly long with a hint of spiced orange and ripe stone fruits.  (92 points)

Schloss Lieser Riesling Niederberg Helden Auslese 2016 - The nose was remarkably fresh and feminine, displaying sweet florals, peach and more peach with sweet cream.  On the palate, I found silky textures with green apple, tropical citrus and caking minerality.  The mix of minerals and acid gave this an almost dry sensation going into the long finish, where saturating citrus and tart apple tones prevailed. (93 points)

* Originally published at The Cellar Table Blog

Germany Is Due for a Great Vintage: Welcome 2015

Is 2015 the Next Great German Vintage?  

By Eric Guido

If you love Classic German riesling, then hold onto your seat, because 2015 in Germany is easily the best young vintage that I have ever tasted.  I say that without any doubt in my mind.  I say it as a fan of Riesling who has been tasting and working to understand the region for many years now. I say it feeling confident that 20 years from now, you’ll be remembering the moment you decided to go deep on 2015s, and you will smile from ear to year. 

However, before you go out and buy all of your favorite Grosses Gewächs and Trocken-style wines, heed my one warning; 2015 German Riesling is all about the classic Prädikat-styled wines.  In other words, wines with residual sugar.  We aren’t talking about “sweet” wines (however those are off the charts as well); what we’re talking about are the styles of Feinherb, Kabbinet and Spatlese.  These are wines that carry varying degrees of residual sugar, but it’s a sweetness that you often don’t perceive, because the acidity and fruit concentration of the wine balances everything out to a tee.  That is the magic of the 2015 vintage.

This is not to say that there aren’t any amazing Grosses Gewächs from the vintage, yet what was apparent to many of the best producers was that the best way to use their perfect fruit was to allow the natural ripeness and purity of the vintage to shine through.  

The ripeness and balance of 2015 came developed from a series of events that unfolded throughout the year and blessed the majority of the northern regions.  The Mosel, Rheinhessen, Rheingau and the Nahe were all treated to a perfect natural blend of climatic conditions.  This started with an extremely dry and warm summer, which excelled the ripening and prompted the berries to develop thicker skins.  Just when growers started to worry that the vintage would suffer from heat and hydric stress, rain came and temperatures regulated.  In the south, this made for an earlier vintage, but in the cooler regions, producers held on and were treated to a harvest season of unheralded perfection.  

Instead of worrying about when to pick or avoiding inclement weather, they were treated to five weeks of an Indian summer, which was propelled even further as the nighttime temperatures turned cool and dry.  And so, through the month of October, growers were able to pick at leisure as the heat of the day and cool, brisk evenings created perfect physiological ripeness in the grapes and aided in keeping botrytis in check.  The results were fruit of outstanding depth, perfect ripeness and bright, brisk acidity.

Speaking of acidity, this was both the blessing and the curse of the vintage.  Producers who waited, achieved deep, concentrated berries, and they found balance in the vintage’s high acid.  However, those who did not, or who picked early to create a drier-styled wine, were subject to a level of acid that I can best describe as “searing”.  In fact, in tasting for this article, there were moments that my gums burned as I worked through certain portfolios.  What’s worse is that some producers decided to deacidify, which created wines of round textures and fruit that lacks the verve of the vintage.

But enough about the producers that failed.  Let’s talk about the majority of the wines and the producers who succeeded in every sense of the word.

What really makes this vintage shine is balance and concentration.  When reading through many of my notes, I found it amazing how often I used the words rich, savory and sweet herbs, as these are not often descriptions I find myself adding to a Riesling tasting note.  However, in 2015, many of the Prädikat wines show these exact virtues.  It’s amazing as I tasted so many of the Kabinetts and found them to be utterly spellbinding.  It was difficult when making buying decisions, because I have so many fond memories of the wines in this range.  As for the Spatlese, they are so young, yet so perfectly compact and balanced.  In many cases, these are 30 - 40 year wines that a young collector could build an entire cellar on.  The exact same can be said for the Auslese category, many of which may be immortal. 

Take the perfectly ripe and pure fruit of the vintage.  Add the depth created by the warm days and cool nights of the harvest. Then factor in the intense, vibrant acidity, and what you get are some of the most exciting wines that Germany (in my life) has ever produced.

I hope you agree and join me in going deep on 2015 Riesling.

On to my tasting notes:

Von Winning Kirchenstück Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2015 - As expected from von Winning, the 2015 Kirchenstuck showed intense minerality on the nose, with a saline or marine quality, along with young mango and pear.  On the palate, I found a wonderfully fresh expression with soft textures to contrast its saturating minerality and hints of tropical fruits.  It finished remarkably long and floral, yet tense.  It’s still holding much back, but the concentration here is intense, and the acidity is in perfect balance. Put it in the cellar. (94 points)

Dönnhoff Felsenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs "Felsenturmchen" 2015 - (limited notes) The nose was rich and deeply layered with intense minerality and young stone fruits.  On the palate, it was fresh and well-balanced, yet a twang of acidity seared the mid through the close.  It finished mouthwatering and spicy. (91 points)

Dönnhoff Hermannshöhle Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2015 - The nose was gorgeous with intense floral perfumes, fresh sliced apple, and hints of undergrowth.  On the palate, I found zesty minerality with green apple acidity, and pure and precise notes of apricot, pear and inner floral tones.  A coating of tantalizing minerals saturated the senses throughout the finish. This is gorgeous. (93 points)

Dönnhoff Kreuznacher Krotenpfuhl Riesling Kabinett 2015 - It was holding back on the nose, showing only hints of its future self, as notes of young peach and hints of spice mingled in the glass.  However, on the palate, I found juicy, ripe stone fruits accentuated by zest acidity and minerals.  It finished long yet fresh, as its ripe fruits backed down and revealed floral tones and spiced green apple. This is beautiful. (94+ points)

Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett 2015 - (limited notes) Showing a mix of ripe stone and yellow tropical fruits with silky textures excited by bright acidity, leaving a coating of minerals and notions of fresh green apple. (91 points)

Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese 2015 - The ‘15 Hermannshohle Spat was off the charts, with a bouquet of spiced florals, sweet sliced apple, crushed stone and hints of fresh ginger.  On the palate, it was layered and intense yet still lifted with saturating notes of lemon curd, spiced apple, minerals and electrifying acidity.  It finished fresh and long with lingering notes of citrus and minerals.  This wine has decades of development ahead of it. (96 points)

Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Auslese "Goldkapsel" 2015 - (limited notes) The nose was floral with sweet tropical fruits.  On the palate, I found a mix of silky textures, zesty acidity, sweet citrus and saline-minerality.  The finish was palate-staining and long, but also wonderfully fresh. (93 points)

Schneider Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Trocken "Magnus" 2015 - The nose was rich, almost savory, saline and intense.  On the palate, tart apple and a rush of intense minerals were overly accentuated by searing acidity.  It coated the palate with minerals throughout the finish and forced the mouth to water. I’m not sure when this wine will find its balance, but on this day, it was almost painful. (89 - 92 points)

Schlossgut Diel Riesling Feinherb ‘Von der Nahe’ 2015 - Here I was treated to a bouquet of ripe apple, sweet herbs and floral tones.  On the palate, concentrated layers of citrus and tart stone fruits were offset by a soft wave of balancing ripeness.  It was mouthwatering and intense throughout the finish with a zesty buzz of acidity through the close. (91 points)

Schlossgut Diel Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Kabinett 2015 - The Dorsheimer Goldloch Kabinett showed intense minerality on the nose, more expected from a GG than a Kabi, with fresh floral and lemon zest.  On the palate, I found vibrant textures with pure ripe citrus fruit.  The details haven’t fleshed out here yet, but the purity is simply stunning.  The finish was long and fresh with zippy acidity that prompted me to take another sip. (92 points)

Schlossgut Diel Pittermannchen Riesling Spatlese 2015 - The nose displayed a mix of sweet florals and herbal tones with hints of mango and ripe pear.  On the palate, I found a refreshing mix of ripe stone fruits, coating minerality and citrus zest.  It was long and caressing to the senses with layers of ripe stone fruits on the finish. (92 points)

Spreitzer Oestricher Lenchen Riesling Spatlese ‘303’ 2015 - On the nose, the ‘303’ is still holding back; yet on the palate, it went off like a bomb.  Here I found intense sweet lemon and tropical notes offset by scintillating acidity which reinforced its tropical layers and coax the senses to water.  This lasted throughout the long finish, adding mineral and sweet herbal tones. (92 points)

Spreitzer Winkeler Jesuitengarten Riesling Spätlese 2015 - The nose was rich and floral with notes of ripe apple, minerals and floral undergrowth.  On the palate, I found zesty acidity with notes of ripe tropical fruit and minerals in a very balanced and alluring expression.  It finished long with saturating tropical fruits offset by zesty citrus tones. (94 points) 

Künstler Hochheimer Kirchenstuck Riesling Kabinett Trocken 2015 - Künstler really delivered the goods on the Hochheimer Kirchenstuck, as an exotic and almost-savory bouquet of spicy florals was given added depth with hints of caraway and fresh apple.   On the palate, it was remarkably soft-textured on entry but then cleansing through vibrant acidity.  Inner floral tones prevailed, as its fruit seemed to take a back seat.  However, I’m not worried here, as there’s so much going on, which is still not at the surface. (92 points)

Künstler Hochheimer Domdechaney Riesling Trocken 2015 - The nose was so layered and  fresh, smelling like Spring, with a mix of floral tones, herbs and young peach.  On the palate, I found tart lemon and inner floral tones with tantalizing green apple acidity.  It finished long, lifted, floral and mouthwatering. Definitely among the top Trockens I’ve tasted from 2015.  (92 points)

Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken - The nose was fresh and lifted with minerals up front, followed by notes of ripe pear and floral undergrowth.  On the palate, I found silky textures contrasted by mouthwatering acidity which excited the senses and brought notes of sweet citrus and inner floral tones to life. The finish was long with lingering notes of ripe apple and lemon.  For the money, you cannot go wrong here. (92 points)

Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese feinherb Ur Alte Reben 2015 - The nose was rich and deeply pitched with ripe stone fruits and spicy floral tones.  On the palate, I found silky textures with tart apple, lemon and mineral thrust.  It washed across the senses like a veil, with a shot of energy in the mid, then finishing long, long, long, laden with minerals. (94 points)

Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese* 2015 - According to Johannes Selbach, this fruit was technically Auslese level in ripeness, and from the depth in the glass, you can certainly feel it.  Here I found a deep and rich mineral-laden perfume, showing dried flowers, ripe apple, mango and hints of lemon curd. On the palate, I found silky, broad textures, which soothed the senses while a wave of acidity forced the mouth to water, releasing notes of spiced citrus and tropical fruits.  The finish was long with notes of sweetened lemon and apple, then fading to become spicy and floral. (95 points)

Selbach-Oster Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese 2015 - In 2015, I believe the Domprobst Auslese may be Selbach’s best sweet wine in 2015.  The nose was intense with layers of crushed stone, tart citrus, and tropical fruits.  It seemed to coat the entire palate in silky textures until a wash of minerals and acidity refreshed the senses, leaving flavors of spiced apple, mango and sweet inner floral tones.  It finished on tension and seemed to go on for well over a minute. Sweet, but not, and built for the cellar.  (96 points)

Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling "Rotlay" 2015 - The nose was fresh and fruity with sweet floral tones.  On the palate, I found silky textures displaying ripe mango, apple and lemon, before turning floral tones and spice.  The finish was long with palate-coating tropical fruits, yet wonderfully fresh at the same times.  This wine is so perfectly balanced.  (94 points)

A.J. Adam Spätburgunder Rose Trocken 2015 - The nose was gorgeous with fresh ripe strawberry fruit giving way to sweet floral tones, along with hints of musk and undergrowth. It was vibrant on the palate, silky yet fresh, displaying ripe cherry, melon and sweet herbs.  It finished fresh and long on hints of strawberry and apple.  This is so pure, focused and perfectly balanced that it keeps you coming back to the glass for me.  Well done! (92 points)

A.J. Adam Riesling Trocken 2015 - This displayed a darker and richer Riesling profile with ripe apple and hints of spice.  On the palate, it was intense, as tart apple and citrus were kept juicy by brisk acidity, morphing into inner floral tones over time.  It finished remarkably fresh and long with a lasting impression of tart citrus and minerals. (91 points)

A.J. Adam Hofberg Riesling (GG) Trocken 2015 - The nose was slightly restrained, yet it was all there below the surface, as yellow floral tones mingled with tart apple and wet stone.  On the palate, it showed remarkable intensity, as notes of concentrated green apple, grapefruit and minerals saturated the senses, yet it was kept vibrant and clean by cleansing acidity.  The finish displayed a deep well of stone fruits, a coating of minerals, and lingering notes of dried flowers. Gorgeous. (95 points)

Weingut Adam & Haart Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling trocken 2015 - The nose was restrained, showing only light floral tones, stone fruits and a whiff of minerals.  On the palate, it came to life with rich yet vibrant textures, as tart apple, sour citrus and minerals soaked the senses, providing contrasts to the wine’s weight.  It finished long on saturating tart fruits and a buzz of brisk acidity. (92 points)

A.J. Adam Im Pfarrgarten Riesling Feinherb 2015 - The nose showed crushed stone up front, followed by an abundance of ripe stone fruit and wet slate.  On the palate, I found a perfect balance of silky textures and tantalizing acidity, along with citrus, sweet herbs, and closing on inner floral tones.  The finish was juicy, vivid and long; as in my notes, the single word “Wow” is scribed at the finale. (93 points)

A.J. Adam Dhron Hofberg Riesling Feinherb "In der Sängerei" 2015 - The nose was rich and spicy with ripe citrus, flowers and sweet herbs.  On the palate, I found silky textures that filled the senses before contrasting notes of green apple and tart citrus joined the fray.  The finish was long with cheek-puckering intensity, yet not severe in any way, as it was simply balanced with sweet citrus and minerals.  I love this layered wine, and it was one of the highlights of my 2015 tastings. (94 - 95 points)

A.J. Adam Dhron "Has'chen" Riesling Kabinett 2015 - The nose was deep and rich, however restrained, with only hints of wild herbs and minerals.  On the palate, I found ripe apple and melon with hints of savory spice, which seemed to coat the senses in their concentration.  It finished fresh on ripe apple and mouthwatering acidity. (92 points)

A.J. Adam Dhron Hofberg Riesling Spätlese 2015 - The nose was youthfully restrained.  On the palate, I found full-bodied textures lifted by brisk acidity.  The fruit was tropical and ripe but kept in check by stunning minerality.  The long finish lent a buzz of mouthwatering acidity which provided freshness.  It was very nice but painfully young, and I doubt my score will do it justice years down the road. (90 - 92 points)

A.J. Adam Dhron Hofberg Riesling Auslese 2015 - The nose showed ripe apple and pear.  On the palate, I found luscious textures, yet lifted and fresh, with notes of mango, orange peel and ripe apricot.  It finished long on sweet florals and hints of spice.  This wine requires time to find itself, as I have no doubt that it will grow into something much more than it is today. (94 - 96 points)

Schloss Lieser (spontaneous fermentation)

Schloss Lieser Helden Riesling Spatlese Trocken 2015 (7.5 grams) - The nose showed tart citrus with intense minerals, floral tones and musky undergrowth.  On the palate, wow, concentrated yet silky with intense rich citrus contrasted by a coating of minerals and spice.  The finish was long and spicy with tart citrus and an almost-smoky quality. (92 points)

Schloss Lieser Riesling Estate 2015 (20 grams) - The nose was fresh, showing young mango, apricot, lemon zest and minerals.  On the palate, I found soft, almost creamy textures, mixing lemon with ripe apple and zest acidity. It turned tart, then made the mouth water throughout the finish. (90 points)

Schloss Lieser Estate Riesling Kabinett 2015 - The nose showed crushed stone minerality with hints of ripe pear.  On the palate, I found soft textures, almost creamy, with sweet citrus, apple and perfectly balanced acidity. The finish was long, almost floral, with lingering hints of tart citrus. (91 points)

Schloss Lieser Riesling Kabinett Brauneberger Juffer 2015 - The nose showed ripe pear, and spice, then turned mineral with sweet florals.  On the palate, I found soft textures giving way to ripe apple, pear, and rich lemon curd; but through it all, there was great energy and tension.  The finish coated the palate with sweet apple and inner floral tones. (92 points)

Schloss Lieser Riesling Kabinett Wehlener Sonnenuhr 2015 - The bouquet was intense and almost savory, with floral perfumes, spice, fresh ginger, and wet stone minerality.  On the palate, it was perfectly balanced, silky and ripe yet contrasted with green apple acidity and coating minerals, then turned to inner florals.  The finish was ridiculously long on ripe apple and sweet citrus with a slight buzz of acidity. It’s a mind-bending wine.  (94 points)

Schloss Lieser Niederberg Helden Riesling Spätlese 2015 - The nose was deep and rich, showing crushed stone minerality with floral tones, lime, and sweet herbs.  On the palate, it was silky, coating the senses with sweet textures lifted by stunning bright fruits, including floral peach, ripe pear, ginger and citrus.  The finish seemed to go on and on, slowly tapering off over time with lingering hints of minerals and lemon. (93 points) 

Keller Riesling Limestone 2015 - The nose showed a bright mix of a ripe spiced apple with wet stone minerality and zesty lemon. On the palate, I found vibrant, soft textures, leading with succulent ripe apple and then turning tart with intense minerality and inner florals.  Granny Smith tartness lingered long, long, long on the mid-palate, along with saturating minerals, all while remnants of zesty acidity forced the mouth to water. (91 points)

* Article was originally published at The Cellar Table Blog

Caponata: A Stunning Sicilian Specialty

Recipe and Wine Pairing by: Eric Guido

It was the fifth day of a heat wave as I sat contemplating a menu that I had to present only a day later. No matter how good your air conditioner or how little time it takes you to move from the cool confines of your home to the blasting AC of your car, the heat manages to wear you down. I sat there looking at the plants that had shriveled up in the neighbor’s garden, even though they were watered each day, and I felt a sort of empathy for them. What to serve to a party that just wandered in from this heat? Caponata.

As a child, my neighborhood would have been considered Italian to an outsider, but the fact is that its inhabitants did not think of it as Italian. You see, I grew up in a Sicilian neighborhood. The Italian part of my family had come from the central part of the boot and so, even with my Italian roots, my neighbors still managed to surprise me with a cuisine that was not quite like my grandmother’s, yet Italian all the same. On an afternoon, in this summer heat, my neighbors would be making caponata.

Caponata is a vegetarian dish that’s centered on eggplant and fresh harvested vegetables. It’s a celebration of produce and on the palate obtains a melding of fresh, salty and sweet flavors that truly makes it a celebration to your taste buds as well. It is, all at once, satisfying, refreshing and delicious. It’s a dish that can be served cold, room temperature or warm, and it can be an appetizer, side dish or main course. It’s difficult for me to think of another dish that is as versatile as caponata, especially since it can thrill you on a paper plate in the yard as well as served on fine china at the table.

My favorite way to serve caponata is at room temperature as an appetizer. When served at this neutral temperature, the medley of flavors in this dish is on full display. Each ingredient still bears its unique flavors while contributing to the whole.

See below for my tasting note.

As for a wine pairing, I like to go with a wine that can stand up to the vibrant acidity of caponata. Remember that this dish has a sweet and sour profile and could be overwhelming next to a new world-styled wine. However, it’s also a dish that showcases the finessed yet sometimes fragile flavors of fresh vegetables, so it wouldn’t stand up well to a heavy-handed red. Lastly, I want a wine that will augment the flavors of the caponata.  I want Riesling, and the one I'm recommending here will knock your socks off.


Caponata

Serves Four

The most important thing is to use the best quality ingredients. This dish doesn’t mask a thing. Instead, it amplifies the flavors of each ingredient, and that’s part of its magic. Many recipes will tell you to peel the tomatoes, but in this case we’re using grape tomatoes for visual appeal and their bittersweet flavor. You could also use plum or vine tomatoes, in which case you should blanch and peel them.

3 - 4 Italian eggplants, about 2 pounds (or look for a mix of colors; smaller is better)
1 large yellow onion, small dice
4 –5 stalks of celery, large dice
1 pound of grape tomatoes, sliced in half with seeds removed
1 cup green Italian olives, sliced in half with pits removed
2 tbls of capers, rinsed
7 tbls of red wine vinegar
2 tbls of sugar
1 bunch fresh basil
4 tbls Extra Virgin olive oil
salt and pepper as needed
1 loaf Italian bread
grape seed oil (for frying)

Slice the eggplant crosswise into ¾ inch slices. Line a sheet pan with paper towels and a cookie rack. Coat both sides of each eggplant slice generously with salt and place on the rack. The salt will pull the bitter flavors out of the eggplant. Allow the eggplant to sit like this for one hour. Then rinse the eggplant well and dry.

Bring a pot of well-salted water to a boil. At the same time, place a large sauté pan over a medium flame and pour enough grape seed oil in to coat the bottom of the pan. Once the oil is hot, place the eggplant into the sauté pan. (Be careful not to overcrowd the pan. You may need to fry the eggplant in two batches.) Fry the eggplant on one side until golden brown and then flip to achieve the same sear on the other side. Once both sides have been cooked, remove from the pan and to drain on paper towels.

Set up a small ice bath. Now place the large dice of celery into the salted boiling water. Blanch for three to four minutes or until the color becomes a deep vibrant green. Pull the celery from the pot and place into the ice bath for no more than one minute. Then drain and set aside.

Cut the eggplant slices into a large dice with a very sharp knife, remember they are soft from being fried and make sure to keep the skin on the eggplant.

At this time you are ready to begin the final assembly of the dish.

In a large sauté pan over medium heat, add enough olive oil to lightly coat the pan. Once hot, add the onions and season with a pinch of salt. Allow the onions to cook for three minutes. Now add the olives, tomatoes and celery and stir together. Allow to cook for another five minutes.

Now add the eggplant, capers, vinegar and sugar. Stir the contents of the pan together well and allow to cook for ten minutes.

Taste for seasoning and season with salt and pepper if necessary.

Move the entire contents of the pan to a serving dish.

If you are looking for room temperature, allow the dish to sit for up to an hour before serving. For hot temp, allow only ten minutes. Or for cold, place under refrigeration for two to three hours.

No matter what temperature you are aiming for, when ready to serve, preheat your oven to 350 degrees. Slice the Italian bread into ¼ inch slices, brush both sides with Extra Virgin olive oil and place on a parchment-lined baking dish. Put in the oven for five minutes to toast slightly. Chop the fresh basil and add to the caponata; stir to combine.

You can plate this with the toasts on the plate and the caponata. Or serve family style.

2011 Stein St. Aldegunder Palmberg-Terrassen Riesling Spätlese feinherb - Aromas jumped from the glass of this young Riesling, showing ripe pear, peach skins, wet mineral laden stone and hints of lemon. On the palate, there was a yin yang of fruit, acidity and minerality. Grapefruit was foremost with an equal doses of acidity as expected from a bite, note the sprinkle of sugar on top. Ripe peach flavor and weight added balance, along with gorgeous saline minerals, which poured out as the mouth began to water. The finish made the cheeks pucker with slight lemon pith, hints of fresh honeycomb and inner floral notes. To say i enjoyed this wine would be an understatement. (92 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

A Riesling Resolution

Last night, I found myself sipping a Riesling at Sojourn Restaurant on the Upper East Side. As I sat there, admiring its bold flavors and mouth-watering acidity, the Sommelier came over to introduce himself. A few moments later, he asked what I thought of the wine. After a brief exchange about what was in the glass, he went on to explain his frustration over how few people appreciate Riesling. It is such a versatile wine, capable of expressing itself beautifully from bone-dry all the way to sticky sweet and all the while saturating yet stimulating your palate… So why don't more people drink Riesling?

“Maybe it's the Tolkienesque script on the bottles,” I replied. Or that the average person doesn't know the difference between a Kabinett and an Auslese, a Trocken or a Feinherb. Or, maybe, it's that the average wine and liquor store doesn't provide a quality selection or one that even comes close to representing what the region is capable of. In fact, I think it's all of these things… One thing I’m sure of, however, is that Riesling is worth overcoming these challenges.

Thinking back over the last few years, there are a lot of great wines that stick out in my mind. Among those wines is a smattering of whites, which convinced me long ago that if I’m going to drink white wine, I want it to be Riesling. However, it seemed that each time I wanted to put some effort into experimenting with the varietal, something Italian would come along and turn my head. And so, I decided to make a commitment; that 2011 will be the year in which I truly explore Riesling, and it’s a journey that I hope you will take with me.

Like any journey into unknown territory, I required a guide. After polling the opinions of many trusted sources, the decision was unanimous: The staff at Crush: Wine and Spirits, were the people to see. One glance at their inventory and the writings/blogging of Wine Director, Stephen Bitterolf was all I needed to know that this team was serious about Riesling, and they have been more than helpful in getting me started.

So where to start? In my opinion, the biggest challenge with Riesling is in understanding the different styles and what to expect, as well as what you prefer. And so, I opted to try a lineup of wines from one producer in the region who came highly recommended: A.J. Adam.

Mention the name A.J. Adam in the company of an experienced Riesling aficionado and the least you’ll get is a nod of respect. However, it’s more likely that the response will be one of admiration and genuine excitement about this young producer, who has only started to recently craft wines under the name “A.J. Adam.”

Andreas Adam, of the Middle Mosel, is best known for a collection of wines made from the Hofberg vineyard, with a soil composition of mostly weathered slate and clay. These wines are wonderfully rich and full yet somehow electric through a whip of vibrant acidity that excites the palate. Recently, he has also crafted a Grosses Gewächs (Germany’s version of a Grand Cru) from the Goldtropfchen vineyard. It’s a dry wine that is spellbinding on the nose with a massive amount of flavor and character on the palate. All the wines were amazing, and picking which ones to add to my cellar was near impossible.

If you don’t know Riesling, A.J. Adam is a great place to start. Readers can also expect many more updates such as these throughout 2011, as I continue to explore this amazing region. For those of you that love the little details there are many to follow. For now, permit me to simply introduce you to four very special wines, and the best part is my top scoring bottle also happens to be the best priced around $26.

On to the Wines:

2009 A.J. Adam Piesporter Goldtropfchen GG – The color of A.J. Adam Goldtropfchen was of pure white gold. In the nose, spring flowers and grapefruit assaulted my senses as aromas of raw almonds and burnt butter followed behind adding subtle complexities. On the palate I found sour lemon drops with minerals and a touch of green grass. The flavors turned to sour apple as this wine’s tongue-curling acidity turned what was originally a perception of a full-bodied wine into something ethereal and light as a feather. The lasting finish showed lemon and lime with hints of salinity. Today, this wine is almost too much to drink, but with proper cellaring, may one day be truly magical. (92 points)

2009 A.J. Adam Dhroner Hofberg Riesling Feinherb – In the nose, this showed lemon and wet slate with a hint of honey and kiwi. On the palate, I found ripe peach, apple and stone with just the slightest kiss of sweetness. This was velvety and mouth-coating, followed by a mouthwatering finish of lemon and lime. The Hofberger Feinherb would be a perfect alternative to the Kabinett for a taster who prefers a bit less residual sugar. However, I still found the Kabinett to be a more complete wine. (91 points)

2009 A.J. Adam Dhroner Hofberg Riesling Kabinett - The nose was at first ungiving, but with some time in the glass, this wine bloomed with fresh brioche, slate dust, citrus and white flower petals. On the palate, I found a hint of sweetness balanced by tart lemon curd and clotted cream, which showed incredible mouth-filling richness that was suddenly wisped away, and turned refreshing, by lively acidity. The finish was like that perfect glass of lemonade on a steaming hot day. This is a bottle to wow your guests with or simply treat yourself to the depths of which Riesling is capable of. (93 points)

2009 A.J. Adam Dhroner Hofberg Riesling Spatlese – Aromas of lime, walnut and green apple wafted up from the glass. On the palate, this was weighty yet still fresh with flavors of honeydew melon and grapefruit playing a sweet and sour act across the tongue. There was a perceptible amount of sweetness, but this didn’t come across as sweet; instead it was full, balanced and bursting with flavor. The finish was long with citrus fruit and a hint of toasty pecan. This bottle is gorgeous now, yet I can’t help but wonder how great it will be in 10 to 15 years. (92 points)

Also see: The Wines of Willi Schaefer