Gambero Rosso, Tre Bicchieri: The Who's Who of Italian Wine.

Gambero Rosso, the world’s authority on Italian food, wine and travel, are also the creators of Gambero Rosso’s Italian Wines, vini d’Italia 2011 and recognized to be the definitive annual guide to Italian wines. The term Tre Bicchieri (or three glasses) is a coveted award bestowed upon the best wines of Italy. Over 70 experts traveled around Italy for months, considering the samples (over 30,000 this year) from every region before classifying each and writing a review. From those, the best scoring wines are then assembled for further review and scores are assigned. One, two or, the highest honor, Tre Bicchieri.

The book is a who’s who of Italian wine and I highly recommend it; but what’s more, in an attempt to publicize Gambero Rosso’s Italian Wines, Gambero Rosso hosts a worldwide tour where industry and press can meet the producers, taste the wines and make their own judgments. Imagine if you will, tasting what’s already been deemed the best of the best.

From this tasting, I was able to spend time with 41 different wines that truly moved me to take notes. Of those 41, I have provided you with my top 10, as well as a link to all of my notes, for those who are interested. Keep in mind that some of these wines are not yet released but are well worth remembering, and each of these will find their way into my personal collection.

Arnaldo-Caprai

Arnaldo-Caprai has become synonymous with Sagrantino. He is a pioneer in the production of this still-obscure varietal that will only continue to gain notoriety. Sagrantino comes from Umbria and is a wine that can be enjoyed in its youth with decanting or age in your cellar. The 2007 25th Anni is one of the best examples I have yet to taste and a standout at the Tri-Bicchieri tasting.

2007 Arnaldo-Caprai Sagrantino di Montefalco 25 Anni – On the nose, this wine was a monster with raspberry, holiday spices and dark earthy and forest notes. It verged on sweet, but there was something primal about this Sagrantino, which pulled it back to reality. On the palate, a massive wave of concentration was turned fresh by vibrant acidity, as blackberry jam, pomegranate, cinnamon and herbs washed across the tongue like silk. The finish showed this wine’s intimidating structure, as velvety tannin coated the mouth. The Arnaldo Caprai 25 Anni is highly enjoyable now and will likely age into something magical. (96 points) Info: Arnaldo-Caprai website (not yet available on Wine-Searcher, check back soon.)

Vietti

Vietti: Last year, I published an article called “If I had to choose one winery?,” labeling Vietti as the one I would choose. My feelings have not changed. Vietti’s Baroli are some of the most exquisite examples you can acquire. The Rocche is my favorite, and in 2006 it does not disappoint. This is a wine for your cellar.

2006 Vietti Barolo Rocche – The nose showed wild berries, undergrowth and spice with a feminine floral overtone. On the palate, I found rich dark fruits buried in a firm, tight structure of tannin and a lovely, long finish. This wine should be a beauty with a decade or two of cellaring. (95 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

Castello di Monsanto

Castello di Monsanto continues to show its unending devotion to traditional Chianti. Their Chianti riserva is, year in and year out, one of the best values of the vintage. However, it’s the Il Poggio Riserva that rivals the greatest Sangiovese in Tuscany. Drink this, and you will know what Sangiovese is capable of.

2006 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio – The 2006 Il Poggio was Tuscany personified as aromas of animal musk, spice, wild berries and forest notes wafted up from the glass. On the palate, this wine showed wild red berries and autumnal notes with a mouth-feel of pure silk. The finish was long in sour berry and spice. (94 points) Info: Monsanto website (not yet available on Wine-Searcher, check back soon.)

Pieropan

Pieropan: Soave doesn’t need to just be a simple quaffer that’s easily forgotten, and Pieropan continues to prove that point in spades. These are whites to rival the best from around the world, and they will not break the bank.

2008 Pieropan Soave Classico La Rocca – The nose showed pear, spring flowers, and wet stones. On the palate, it showed a medium, plush body with stone fruits, more floral notes and minerals. A long, refreshing finish added exclamation to an already goergeous expression of Soave. (93 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

Donnafugata

Donnafugata: This is a newcomer to my vocabulary but in no way new to making great wine. Donnafugata shows that Southern Italian wine has truly come into its own.

2007 Donnafugata Contessa Entellina Tancredi – The nose showed crushed wild berries, floral underbrush, licorice and sawmill. On the palate, there was focused red fruits with cedar and herbal fruit tea which filled out every bit of an otherwise tightly-wound performance. The finish was long but airy and fresh. I believe this is highly enjoyable now with a good decant, but it should do even better if left for a year or two in the cellar. (93 points) Info: Donnafugata Website (not yet available on Wine-Searcher, check back soon.)

Paolo Conterno

Paolo Conterno: The more I taste the wines from the Ginestra vineyard, the more I love them; and in 2006, Paolo Conterno has given me another bottle to add to my cellar. The aromatics of this wine thrilled me. As with most Barolo, this bottle will likely shut down for a number of years, but for now it provides an early peak into its bright future.

2006 Paolo Conterno Barolo Ginestra – This wine showed an interesting nose of bergamont, musky animal fur, olive and minerals. On the palate, it was silky yet structured with focused red fruit, leather and earth. The finish was long with wild red berries. (93 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

Masi

Masi: One of my first remarkable Amarone experiences was with a bottle of Costasera Riserva, and this tasting showed that it wasn’t just a one-night stand. This wine was vibrant, rich and dark, but it kept a level of freshness that was exhilarating.

2005 Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Costasera – The nose showed rich black cherry, spices and tree bark, yet there was something animal about this wine that truly balanced the seductive fruit. On the palate, it was large-scaled and rich with cherry and spice, yet still feminine and graceful. The finish was long yet fresh. (93 points) Info: Masi website (not yet available on Wine-Searcher, check back soon.)

Fattoria di Fèlsina

Fattoria di Fèlsina: After Vietti and Giacomo Conterno, the largest amount of bottles I own from a single winery are from Fattoria di Fèlsina. Why? Consistent quality over decades is the answer. The Fontalloro is certainly more enjoyable now than the Rancia, as is often the case, but these are wines that will also do well in your cellar.

2007 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Fontalloro – The 2007 Fontalloro showed dark red fruits, leather and red spices on the nose. The palate showed a firm structure with red fruits, coffee and earthy notes. The finish was long with floral berries and wood tones. (92 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

Nino Negri

Nino Negri: For a completely different expression of Nebbiolo, try the Nino Negri 5 Stelle from Lombardia. It is made in a style similar to Amarone, but there are additional qualities that only Nebbiolo can bring to the table. (An honorable mention must also be made to Mamete Prevostini, another producer of Sforzato, who nearly made this list.)

2007 Nino Negri Valtellina Sfursat 5 Stelle – The nose of the 5 Stelle showed dark forest notes with cherry and spice. On the palate, it revealed a beautiful structure with rich cherry fruit against soil and earth notes. The long finish showed red berries. This is a wine I will buy with the intention of opening in two or three year’s time. (91 points) Info: Nino Negri website (not yet available on Wine-Searcher, check back soon.)

Cascina Corte

Cascina Corte: I am a confessed lover of Dolcetto, and I’m truly convinced that it’s worth international attention. Cascina Corte makes one that truly turned my head. Where some producers have been making Dolcetto too jammy or rich, Cascina Corte instead went for floral, finessed elegance. It’s a beautiful bottle deserving of the name Dolcetto.

2008 Cascina Corte Dolcetto di Dogliani Pirochetta Vecchie Vigne – The nose of the Cascina Corta Dolcetto had a beautiful, elegant floral profile with crushed blackberries and hint of menthol. On the palate, I found rich blackberry with hints of citrus peel. It was beautifully fresh and focused. (90 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

Resources:
For all of my notes from Gambero Rosso, Click Here.
Official Website of: Gambero Rosso

Vintage Sangiovese at "The Sommelier's Cellar"

In wrapping up my coverage of The Italian Wine Master’s, today I bring you my notes from “The Sommeliers’ Cellar”, a portion of the tasting that was created to showcase older vintages of the wines that were on display at the show. Some people may ask, why is this important? The reason, even though many people drink wines early after release these days, is that many of these bottles need age in order to show what they’re capable of. Brunello especially, is extremely hard to gauge in its youth.

Ready to drink
2007 San Felice Il Grigio

This is not say that all Sangiovese should be placed in a wine cellar and left for over a decade, in fact, the majority of Chianti Classico, sampled at this event, was perfectly ready to drink. However, some of the best producer’s bottles simply need time before they blossom, the Fontodi Vigna del Sorbo comes to mind. In tasting these wines and in reading these notes, you can gauge what the new release bottles may one day taste like. For instance, one thing I learned, is that the wines of Tenuta Oliveto and Col C’Orcia are worth more of my attention and should be in my cellar.

Montalcino

Lastly, what I took from this tasting is how the development of certain vintages is coming along. 1999 is truly showing that it was worth the accolades bestowed upon it in Brunello di Montalcino. The wines are stunning and just entering their drink window, with pure ripe fruits and velvety textures. 1997 continues to be a super-model vintage with all the sex appeal included. Lastly, 2001 still needs time, but continues to age gracefully, and should one day, be truly glorious.

On to the Notes:

1995 Barbi Brunello di Montalcino – Aromas of brown and burnt sugar on the nose gave way to dried red berries. On the palate, this wine was full and beautifully resolved with lush sour cherry fruit made juicy by vibrant acidity. The finish was long and reminiscent of cherries and old spice. (92 points)

1999 Campogiovanni Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose showed earth and minerals followed by raspberry and berry scented wax. On the palate, I found a soft expression of sweet strawberry fruit and old wood, which led to a short and drying finish. Unfortunately it seems that the structure of this wine will outlive its fruit. (91 points)

Find this wine on: Wine-Searcher

1980 Col C’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose showed faded strawberry, herbal tea leaves and minerals. The palate came across as savory and juicy with cherry, plum and mineral salinity. This wine may be on its down slope but it was highly enjoyable and will probably continue to drink well for many years to come. (94 points)

1997 Antinori Pian Delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed, saddle leather, cedar, strawberry and brown sugar. On the palate, this wine is full and well structured with sweet dark fruits, holiday spices and hints of herbs. It was highly enjoyable through the long fresh finish. (92 points)

Find this wine on: Wine-Searcher

1999 Tenuta di Collosorbo Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed brown sugar and herbal green stems. The palate came across and soft and velvety yet with an underlying structure and balance. Black raspberry and mulling spices fill out the palate and faded into a long gentle finish. (90 points)

Find this wine on: Wine-Searcher

1998 Tenuta Oliveto Brunello di Montalcino – The Oliveto stood out amongst its peers with a nose of blackberry, herbs and green olive. In the mouth, this showed amazing focus of fruit against a fine acidic backbone as sour red currant coated the palate; followed by minerals and slight salinity. The finish was long, as this wine’s tongue coating fruit slowly faded away to freshness. (94 points)

2000 Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino – The nose was elegantly perfumed with floral aromatics, herbs and spice. On the palate, I found sour cherry but with little else to offer. The finish was reminiscent of the palate but very drying. This wine may just need time but at the moment its score is more representative of what’s offered on the nose as opposed to the palate. (88 points)

Find this wine on: Wine-Searcher

1997 Camigliano Brunello di Montalcino – The nose was floral with potpourri and dark brooding fruits. On the palate, I found sweet red berries and spicy wood tones. The finish was fresh. (89 points)

Find this wine on: Wine-Searcher

1997 Ormanni Chiant Classico Riserva – The nose of this wine reminded me of autumn, with old wood, florist shop and strawberry. On the palate, I found sweet, round red fruits, herbal tea and spices with a slight copper penny note on the finish. (90 points)

Find this wine on: Wine-Searcher

1999 Fontodi Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo – The nose showed strawberry, rosemary, tanning leather and hints of manure. On the palate, I found a lush, full, structured expression of ripe, dark red fruits with mulling spice. The finish was long, as the ripe fruit slowly tapered off. (95 points)

Find this wine on: Wine-Searcher

1990 Castello di Ama Chianti Classico – The nose showed vibrant red fruits, florist shop, leather and potpourri. On the palate, I found dried strawberry and spice. This wine somehow came across as young and full of life. It was a pleasure to taste and should continue to develop for many years to come. (94 points)

Find this wine on: Wine-Searcher

The Sommelier's Cellar also include some great Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. My notes can be found HERE!

“The Italian Wine Masters,” Part 4 Prosecco

The Italian Wine Masters is a combined effort between The Consorzi Brunello di Montalcino, Chianti Classico, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore. It’s a trade show of sorts, where industry professionals and press are invited to meet the owners and representatives of over 100 wineries from Tuscany and the Veneto, Valdobbiadene wine growing region.

Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore

The question that comes to mind is: does the world understand that Prosecco can, and should, be more than an aperitif or palate-cleansing table wine? I’m here to say that it certainly should.

I’ve enjoyed many glasses of Prosecco in my life, and I’ve been moved by a handful of them. However, in most cases, it was simply that I wasn’t putting enough effort into finding wines of character. I’m not saying that Prosecco should stop being a highly enjoyable and easily drinkable dinner wine, but what I am saying is if you have disregarded it as nothing more than an easy-drinking aperitif, then you have done yourself a disservice.

Prosecco comes primarily from the Veneto region in the Conegliano Valdobbiadene. The wines that truly impressed me were from a handful of producers and, in most cases, from the Cartizze growing region, within the Conegliano Valdobbiadene. In my opinion, the volume, nuances and depths of flavors that these wines can reach easily make the argument that they can stand shoulder-to-shoulder with bubbly from around the world.

However, I would be remiss not to mention that there were a number of affordable, easy-drinking, unassuming and highly enjoyable Proseccos at this event, and I urge you to try both styles.

The run down, by score:
93 points - 2009 Val d’Oca Valdobbiadene Superiors di Cartizze Spumante
92 points - 2009 Col Vetoraz Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Dry Millestimato
91 points - Soligo Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Brut
91 points - 2009 Col Vetoraz Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze Spumante
90 points - Col Vetoraz Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Brut
90 points - Bellenda Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Extra dry Miraval.
89 points - Col Vetoraz Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Extra Dry
89 points - Val d’Oca Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Brut
89 points - Val d’Oca Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Extra Dry millesimato
89 points - 2009 Perlage Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Extra Dry col di Manza Rive di Ogliano

On to the notes:

Bellenda Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Extra dry Miraval – The nose showed apple and citrus fruits. On the palate, this wine was refreshing and lively with granny smith apple and a hint of minerals leading to a vibrant and fresh finish. (90 points)

Soligo Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Brut – The nose showed tropical fruits and an unmistakable hint of banana. On the palate, the tropical fruit continues, backed by vibrant acidity and a pleasant, soft finish. (91 points)

Col Vetoraz Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Brut – The nose showed lemon and pear with green stems and floral notes. On the palate, I found crisp acidity and flavors of green apple. The finish was long with herbs and stone fruit. (90 points)

Col Vetoraz Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Extra Dry – The nose showed apricot, butter and citrus. On the palate, I found fresh notes of lemon peel and minerals. The finish was refreshing and light. (89 points)

2009 Col Vetoraz Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Dry Millestimato – The nose showed citrus and floral herbs. On the palate, this Prosecco was rich yet vibrant with layers of flavors. Stone fruit, minerals, white cherry and hints of salinity glided across the palate into a long refreshing finish. (92 points)

2009 Col Vetoraz Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze Spumante – The nose showed ripe peach and apple. The palate was soft yet vibrantly fresh with sweet apple and citrus notes. The finish was refreshing and light. (91 points)

Val d’Oca Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Brut – The nose showed pear and hints of tropical fruits. On the palate, I found green apple backed by zesty acidity with an herbal finish. (89 points)

Val d’Oca Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Extra Dry millesimato – The nose showed minerals, clay, yeast and ripe stone fruits. On the palate, I found pear with a hint of sweetness, which ended fresh into the finish. (89 points)

2009 Val d’Oca Valdobbiadene Superiors di Cartizze Spumante – The nose showed almond extract, sage and spicy butter cookie, yet remained vibrantly fresh. On the palate, I found ripe apricot and nutty tones with tongue-curling acidity. The finish was light and mouthwatering. This was one of the best Prosecco’ I’ve ever tasted. (93 points)

2009 Perlage Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Spumante Extra Dry col di Manza Rive di Ogliano – The nose showed fresh flowers and peach. On the palate, it was fresh and soft with a hint of herbs and lime. (89 points)