VinItaly comes to New York

Earlier this month, I had the opportunity to attend VinItaly in New York City, at the Metropolitan Pavilion.  I'm sure that many of my readers are familiar with VinItaly in Italy.  For those who aren't, VinItaly is a massive, multi-day event that takes place in Verona.  Thousands of producers attend, and many more thousands of wine consumers and business people come to taste.  VinItaly N.Y.C. is a significantly smaller event, spanning over the course of a single day, yet still made very enjoyable by providing a number of clinics and hundreds of Italian wines to chose from.

Provveditore, some of the best
Morellino di Scansano I tasted at
VinItaly.

This year, there was a large emphasis placed upon Morellino di Scansano. This was very educational for me, since Morellino di Scansano is a wine made primarily from Sangiovese (at least 85%, but known locally as Morellino), yet from a part of Tuscany that I have not had a chance to thoroughly explore; Scansano, in the Maremma.  What's even more interesting, yet not necessarily to my taste, is that Morellino di Scansano is allowed to be bottled very young, literally in March following the harvest.  As I researched this wine, many of my tasting notes started to make a lot more sense to me, since I felt that almost every bottle I tasted could benefit from a couple years’ worth of age.  However, the wines themselves were very good.  What I enjoyed even more were the Morellino di Scansano Riservas, which are aged at least one year in barrel and another in bottle before release.  You can find a number of my tasting notes of Morellino di Scansano Here.

Donnafugata continues to impress me
The Ben Rye was an easy choice for
my top ten wines.

Another standout was the number of dessert-style wines that simply blew me away.  I know that sweet wines have been out of style for decades now in the United States, but I'm here to say that these wines are worth your attention; they were simply stunning.  From as far south as the island of Pantelleria (2008 Donnafugata Passito di Pantelleria Ben Ryé) to Verona in the north (2006 Villa Almé Raboso Passito El Rásego), these were some of my highest-scoring wines.

In the end, it was a great tasting, filled with many wines that were new to me and a few that have become repeat favorites.  I've provided my top ten wines of the tasting with notes and scores below.

On to the Wines:

2006 Villa Almé Raboso Passito El Rásego – On the nose, this wine draws you in with a mixture of ripe figs, black cherry, dark chocolate and soy.  The palate was rich and weighty yet beautifully balanced with flavors of sweet cherries, raisins, tobacco and poached figs.  The finish lasts for well over a minute, yet it remains fresh and begs you to take another sip. (94 points)

Villa Alme Website!

2008 Donnafugata Passito di Pantelleria Ben Ryé - Aromas of candied orange rind in brandy with hints of lemon zest and floral notes rose up from the glass in enveloping waves.  On the palate, this wine showed immense weight, yet it remained elegant and fresh with sweet herbal tea, caramel and citrus flavors.  The finish lasted and lasted for well over a minute and all the while left me with a mouth-watering desirer for another sip.  (94 points)

Donnafugata Website!

2005 Travaglini Gattinara Riserva - The nose showed masses of crushed red berries with mint and tea leaves.  On the palate, it was at first smooth and enveloping before its structure took control and tannins coated the senses.  However, a dense core of red fruits and earth were unmistakable and lasted through the long finish.  This is a wine for the cellar.  I know I’ll be putting some away in mine. (93 points)

Travaglini Website!

2008 Agricola Provveditore Morellino di Scansano Primo Riserva - The nose showed deep, dark red fruits with floral and spice notes.  On the palate, it was first full-bodied and smooth with layers of red fruits and herbs, but it then shut down quickly with a stern, structured finish.  The 2008 Primo needs time and should age beautifully. (93 points)

Agricola Provveditore Website!

2007 Barone di Villagrande Malvasia delle Lipari Passito - The nose showed spicy tropical fruit with lemon and florals.  On the palate, it was medium-to-full-bodied with rich peach flavors.  It was almost unbearable to spit this wine as its wonderful balance was both luxurious, yet fresh on the palate.  The finish was loooong.  Highly enjoyable.  (93 points)

Barone di Villagrande Website!

2006 Tenuta Greppo (Biondi-Santi) Brunello di Montalcino - The nose showed whiffs of brown sugar with dark raspberry fruit and hints of herbs.  On the palate, it showed impeccable balance, with a core of rich red fruit.  The finish was long, yet structured, and promised many years of upward development. (92 points)

Biondi-Santi Website!

2008 Luce La Vite Lucente Toscana IGT - On the nose, I found dark chocolate with cranberry sour patch candy.  On the palate, it showed juicy, spicy red fruit with a full body, which led to a long, long finish.  It was ripe, yet balanced, and very enjoyable. (92 points)

Luce della Vite Website!

2006 Argiolas Turriga Isola dei Nuraghi IGT - The nose showed black raspberry jam with notes of dark chocolate and tobacco leaf.  On the palate, this was elegant and weighty with black fruits and spice.  Rich yet refined, the Turriga is another wine from Argiolas that I’d love to spend more time with. (92 points)

Argiolas Website!

2007 Barone di Villagrande Sciara di Villagrande Sicilia IGT - The nose was savory with mixed berries followed by an aroma of rich, meaty broth and earthy stems.  On the palate, it was smooth and balanced with spicy red fruits and minerals.  A bit of firm structure showed through on the medium-long finish. (92 points)

Barone di Villagrande Website!

2007 Fattoria Le Pupille (Elisabetta Geppetti) Morellino di Scansano Riserva - The nose showed dusty dark chocolate with red fruits and hints of wild herbs.  On the palate, I found tart berries with a firm structured backbone.  There was no doubting the quality of what was in the glass, yet this wine still needs a few more years to strut its stuff.  (91 points)

Fattoria Le Pupille Website!

Gambero Rosso, Tre Bicchieri: The Who's Who of Italian Wine.

Gambero Rosso, the world’s authority on Italian food, wine and travel, are also the creators of Gambero Rosso’s Italian Wines, vini d’Italia 2011 and recognized to be the definitive annual guide to Italian wines. The term Tre Bicchieri (or three glasses) is a coveted award bestowed upon the best wines of Italy. Over 70 experts traveled around Italy for months, considering the samples (over 30,000 this year) from every region before classifying each and writing a review. From those, the best scoring wines are then assembled for further review and scores are assigned. One, two or, the highest honor, Tre Bicchieri.

The book is a who’s who of Italian wine and I highly recommend it; but what’s more, in an attempt to publicize Gambero Rosso’s Italian Wines, Gambero Rosso hosts a worldwide tour where industry and press can meet the producers, taste the wines and make their own judgments. Imagine if you will, tasting what’s already been deemed the best of the best.

From this tasting, I was able to spend time with 41 different wines that truly moved me to take notes. Of those 41, I have provided you with my top 10, as well as a link to all of my notes, for those who are interested. Keep in mind that some of these wines are not yet released but are well worth remembering, and each of these will find their way into my personal collection.

Arnaldo-Caprai

Arnaldo-Caprai has become synonymous with Sagrantino. He is a pioneer in the production of this still-obscure varietal that will only continue to gain notoriety. Sagrantino comes from Umbria and is a wine that can be enjoyed in its youth with decanting or age in your cellar. The 2007 25th Anni is one of the best examples I have yet to taste and a standout at the Tri-Bicchieri tasting.

2007 Arnaldo-Caprai Sagrantino di Montefalco 25 Anni – On the nose, this wine was a monster with raspberry, holiday spices and dark earthy and forest notes. It verged on sweet, but there was something primal about this Sagrantino, which pulled it back to reality. On the palate, a massive wave of concentration was turned fresh by vibrant acidity, as blackberry jam, pomegranate, cinnamon and herbs washed across the tongue like silk. The finish showed this wine’s intimidating structure, as velvety tannin coated the mouth. The Arnaldo Caprai 25 Anni is highly enjoyable now and will likely age into something magical. (96 points) Info: Arnaldo-Caprai website (not yet available on Wine-Searcher, check back soon.)

Vietti

Vietti: Last year, I published an article called “If I had to choose one winery?,” labeling Vietti as the one I would choose. My feelings have not changed. Vietti’s Baroli are some of the most exquisite examples you can acquire. The Rocche is my favorite, and in 2006 it does not disappoint. This is a wine for your cellar.

2006 Vietti Barolo Rocche – The nose showed wild berries, undergrowth and spice with a feminine floral overtone. On the palate, I found rich dark fruits buried in a firm, tight structure of tannin and a lovely, long finish. This wine should be a beauty with a decade or two of cellaring. (95 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

Castello di Monsanto

Castello di Monsanto continues to show its unending devotion to traditional Chianti. Their Chianti riserva is, year in and year out, one of the best values of the vintage. However, it’s the Il Poggio Riserva that rivals the greatest Sangiovese in Tuscany. Drink this, and you will know what Sangiovese is capable of.

2006 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio – The 2006 Il Poggio was Tuscany personified as aromas of animal musk, spice, wild berries and forest notes wafted up from the glass. On the palate, this wine showed wild red berries and autumnal notes with a mouth-feel of pure silk. The finish was long in sour berry and spice. (94 points) Info: Monsanto website (not yet available on Wine-Searcher, check back soon.)

Pieropan

Pieropan: Soave doesn’t need to just be a simple quaffer that’s easily forgotten, and Pieropan continues to prove that point in spades. These are whites to rival the best from around the world, and they will not break the bank.

2008 Pieropan Soave Classico La Rocca – The nose showed pear, spring flowers, and wet stones. On the palate, it showed a medium, plush body with stone fruits, more floral notes and minerals. A long, refreshing finish added exclamation to an already goergeous expression of Soave. (93 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

Donnafugata

Donnafugata: This is a newcomer to my vocabulary but in no way new to making great wine. Donnafugata shows that Southern Italian wine has truly come into its own.

2007 Donnafugata Contessa Entellina Tancredi – The nose showed crushed wild berries, floral underbrush, licorice and sawmill. On the palate, there was focused red fruits with cedar and herbal fruit tea which filled out every bit of an otherwise tightly-wound performance. The finish was long but airy and fresh. I believe this is highly enjoyable now with a good decant, but it should do even better if left for a year or two in the cellar. (93 points) Info: Donnafugata Website (not yet available on Wine-Searcher, check back soon.)

Paolo Conterno

Paolo Conterno: The more I taste the wines from the Ginestra vineyard, the more I love them; and in 2006, Paolo Conterno has given me another bottle to add to my cellar. The aromatics of this wine thrilled me. As with most Barolo, this bottle will likely shut down for a number of years, but for now it provides an early peak into its bright future.

2006 Paolo Conterno Barolo Ginestra – This wine showed an interesting nose of bergamont, musky animal fur, olive and minerals. On the palate, it was silky yet structured with focused red fruit, leather and earth. The finish was long with wild red berries. (93 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

Masi

Masi: One of my first remarkable Amarone experiences was with a bottle of Costasera Riserva, and this tasting showed that it wasn’t just a one-night stand. This wine was vibrant, rich and dark, but it kept a level of freshness that was exhilarating.

2005 Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Costasera – The nose showed rich black cherry, spices and tree bark, yet there was something animal about this wine that truly balanced the seductive fruit. On the palate, it was large-scaled and rich with cherry and spice, yet still feminine and graceful. The finish was long yet fresh. (93 points) Info: Masi website (not yet available on Wine-Searcher, check back soon.)

Fattoria di Fèlsina

Fattoria di Fèlsina: After Vietti and Giacomo Conterno, the largest amount of bottles I own from a single winery are from Fattoria di Fèlsina. Why? Consistent quality over decades is the answer. The Fontalloro is certainly more enjoyable now than the Rancia, as is often the case, but these are wines that will also do well in your cellar.

2007 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Fontalloro – The 2007 Fontalloro showed dark red fruits, leather and red spices on the nose. The palate showed a firm structure with red fruits, coffee and earthy notes. The finish was long with floral berries and wood tones. (92 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

Nino Negri

Nino Negri: For a completely different expression of Nebbiolo, try the Nino Negri 5 Stelle from Lombardia. It is made in a style similar to Amarone, but there are additional qualities that only Nebbiolo can bring to the table. (An honorable mention must also be made to Mamete Prevostini, another producer of Sforzato, who nearly made this list.)

2007 Nino Negri Valtellina Sfursat 5 Stelle – The nose of the 5 Stelle showed dark forest notes with cherry and spice. On the palate, it revealed a beautiful structure with rich cherry fruit against soil and earth notes. The long finish showed red berries. This is a wine I will buy with the intention of opening in two or three year’s time. (91 points) Info: Nino Negri website (not yet available on Wine-Searcher, check back soon.)

Cascina Corte

Cascina Corte: I am a confessed lover of Dolcetto, and I’m truly convinced that it’s worth international attention. Cascina Corte makes one that truly turned my head. Where some producers have been making Dolcetto too jammy or rich, Cascina Corte instead went for floral, finessed elegance. It’s a beautiful bottle deserving of the name Dolcetto.

2008 Cascina Corte Dolcetto di Dogliani Pirochetta Vecchie Vigne – The nose of the Cascina Corta Dolcetto had a beautiful, elegant floral profile with crushed blackberries and hint of menthol. On the palate, I found rich blackberry with hints of citrus peel. It was beautifully fresh and focused. (90 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

Resources:
For all of my notes from Gambero Rosso, Click Here.
Official Website of: Gambero Rosso