Amarone: An Island Unto Itself

Touring through the wines of Italy is a journey of true diversity. This has a lot to do with how I fell in love with Italian wine; you simply can never get sick of it. If the austerity of Barolo becomes too much, then you can go to Tuscany for a glass of Chianti. If the food-craving acidity of Chianti leaves you longing, you can fall back on the ripe, round fruits of Sicily. You can go on and on like this, because Italy has it all, and in the thousands of grape varieties found there--you can be assured that there will always be something new and exciting. In my opinion, one of the most interesting, and sinfully enjoyable Italian wines, is Amarone.

Nowhere else in the world have I found a wine like Amarone. Many regions try to recreate it, and some make good wines, but a great Amarone is an island onto itself. These are wines of immense proportion, with a richness and weight that is seldom achieved, while maintaining a wine of balance. And balance is what Amarone is all about. It's the balance that allows Amarone to achieve +15% alcohol without seeming hot or flabby, and it's that same balance which marries intensely ripe fruit with a contrast of dark bitter flavors. Many great wines are compared to the grace of a ballerina with their underlying power--Amarone has all of that, yet with a sassy, extroverted personality that loves a good party.

There is one drawback: there is no such thing as cheap Amarone. Now that's not to say you can't find a good value, but keep in mind that it is all relative. We are talking about a wine that is essentially made from raisins (raisinated grapes to be precise). Those grapes must be grown and coddled in the vineyard like any other great wine. They must be harvested with the same care. However, what truly sets them apart is the drying process (appassimento), where the grapes are laid out on mats, or (more often today) in bins, to be dried for three to four months. Great care must be taken to avoid unwanted rot. When the process is complete, the juice of each grape has been greatly reduced. I'm sure you can imagine how difficult it must be to make wine from raisinated grapes, and all the while maintaining depth of flavor and fresh acidity. Hence, finding good Amarone under $40-$45 can be nearly impossible.

The good news is that these wines will give great wines from around the world a serious run for their money. So when you consider that a great Amarone may cost $75, it certainly looks very attractive next to +$150 wines from around the world. What's more, from my recent tasting of current releases, my top scoring wine happens to also be one of the most affordable.

I ask you to give these wines a chance, and spend the extra money. The proof will be in the glass, and they will impress almost any wine lover.

On To the Wines:

2009 Zenato Amarone della Valpolicella Classico – The nose was exuberant with medicinal cherry, crushed raspberry, dark chocolate, floral undergrowth and a hint of volatile acidity. On the palate, it was velvety smooth with intense, bright cherry, which remained fresh yet dense, with herbs, black licorice and spice. A slight bitter note lasted into the finish with spiced cherry and dark chocolate. It’s a beautiful wine! (95 points)

Producer website: Zenato
Avg. price $50
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2008 Brigaldara Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Case Vecie – The nose was massive with dark ripe fruit and earth, showing dark chocolate-covered cherry, crushed berry, hints of earth herbs and fresh turned soil. On the palate, it was big with velvety textures, saturating fruit and a fine tannic spine. Medicinal cherry and dark chocolate seemed to coat every inch of the palate, yet stayed fresh throughout the finish. (94 points)

Producer website: Brigaldara
Avg. price $52
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2008 Venturini Massimino Amarone della Valpolicella Classico – The nose was confectionary with ripe black cherry and cinnamon, yet turned savory in the glass as hints of undergrowth and wild herbs joined the mix. On the palate, it was weighty, yet silky with medicinal cherry, dark chocolate and savory herbs. The staying finish showed bitter cherry and dark chocolate, which seemed to go on and on. Very nice. (93 points)

Producer website: Venturini
Avg. price $45
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2008 Lorenzo Begali Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Monte Ca' Bianca – The nose was, at first, shy; yet with time in the glass, it began to blossom, showing dried cherry, blackberry, menthol, rock dust and a hint of volatile acidity, which helped more than hurt. On the palate, it showed soft, silky textures, but quickly turned tart and mouthwatering with dark fruits and black licorice. Tart cherry fruit seemed to encompass the senses throughout the long and seductive finish. WOW! (93 points)

Producer website: Begali Wine
Avg. price $67
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Allegrini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico – The nose was, all at once, sweet, savory and earthy, showing dried cherry, dusty spice, dark chocolate, floral undergrowth and hints of green stems. On the palate, it was dense with velvety textures, as bitter cherry and dark, dark chocolate notes saturated the senses, yet remained balanced throughout. The finish was dark with a hint of heat, and bitter chocolate and rosy floral perfumes persisted. (92 points)

Producer website: Allegrini
Avg. price $68
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2010 Tommasi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico – The nose was confectionary, showing plum, black cherry, medicinal herbs and bitter molasses. On the palate, it was soft with velvety textures as sweet dark fruit covered the palate with dark chocolate and holiday spice. The finish showed medicinal cherry and a hint of heat, which lingered long. (92 points)

Producer website: Tommasi
Avg. price $47
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Speri Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Monte Sant'Urbano – The nose came across as fruity, but savory, with black cherry followed by animal musk, floral perfumes and herbal tones. On the palate, it was bright with a medium body, showing tart cherry, dark chocolate, saline minerals and a medicinal herbal note. The finish was long, with a hint of heat showing bitter cherry. I often enjoy this wine, yet the 2009, as good as it is, seems to lack the energy of past vintages. (91 points)

Producer website: Speri
Avg. price $55
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Costasera – The nose showed cherry and sweet floral tones, animal musk and a cool, lifting herbal note. On the palate, it showed ripe red fruits, herbal hints, and saline minerals. The fruit turned tart through the finish with blackberry and cranberry notes, contrasted by fine tannins. (89 points)

Producer website: Masi Agricola
Avg. price $50
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2008 Azienda Agricola Musella Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva – The nose was at first restrained, yet with time in the glass began to show dusty spice, dried cherries, and hints of cranberry. I couldn’t help but be reminded of a child’s cherry candy. On the palate, spiced cherry and red licorice spread across the senses with soft and silky textures. The finish showed bitter cherry, yet seemed to lack depth. (88 points)

Producer website: Musella
Avg. price $50
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2007 Tenuta Sant'Antonio Amarone della Valpolicella Campo dei Gigli – The nose was restrained, yet with time in the glass began to show black cherry, dusty cocoa, airy floral notes and black licorice. On the palate, it was silky and smooth with weighty notes of bitter cherry, yet it lacked any serious depth. Cherry and cola notes fleshed out on the finish. Enjoyable, yet lacking character. (88 points)

Producer website: Tenuta Sant'Antonio
Avg. price $63
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2008 Tedeschi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Capitel Monte Olmi – The nose showed tart cherry, sour floral notes, green steams, green peas, and animal musk. On the palate, an impression of dark raspberry jam was kept fresh by vibrant acidity and excellent balance. The finish showed tannins complemented by dark red fruit, which was slightly bitter. (86 points)

Producer website: Tedeschi
Avg. price $82
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

Amarone Families: Embracing A Legacy

Autumn is here, and what better way to welcome it in than with a tasting of Amarone. Not just any Amarone either; this tasting included the top names in the industry, and each provided two bottles to showcase their new releases, as well as a library wine that would show how well Amarone ages. You heard me right; Amarone can age, and the results can be a truly beautiful thing.

The problem with aged Amarone is that it’s so hard to keep yourself from enjoying them in their youth. Only a few people ever put them away in the cellar for future exploration. I’ve had but a few in my time, and each experience was memorable to say the least. So imagine my delight when I was told that this tasting would include Amarone going back to 1988.

The hosts behind this tasting were a group of Amarone producers calling themselves “Amarone Families” or “Famiglie Dell’Amarone d’Arte.” Their mission is to show the differences in quality between an artisanal Amarone and one that is made in a mass-produced style. The fact is that the process for creating Amarone is being copied around the globe, as well as being done in mass throughout the Veneto. I remember when I first started getting into Italian wine, and a trusted retailer explained that you should expect a good Amarone to cost no less than $35 (that was eight years ago), the reason being the process that it takes to make this amazing wine. Imagine making wine from grapes that have been dried to the point of almost being raisins. Imagine the amount of grapes you need to make one bottle of wine. The numbers add up. I found this to be even more humorous as I received an e-mail today for a $24 Amarone.

So how did the wines perform? They were excellent. Most of the wines showed remarkable balance, plush textures, and freshness that was almost impossible to believe (like the 1988 Speri). As for the new releases, I found the ‘08s to be smaller in scale without the rich backbone that I usually associate with Amarone. These wines would actually do well with food, where an average Amarone might overwhelm it. The ‘07s, on the other hand, are big and rich with amazing textures and detailed fruit and spice.

On to the wines:

1988 - 2006 Amarone della Valpolicella

2007 Amarone della Valpolicella

2008 Amarone della Valpolicella

A Risotto Rendezvous

The summer is in full swing, and with it, my schedule has been full of wining and dining my clients and friends. There have been some great bottles and I’m looking forward to sharing many of those experiences with you. However, today I wanted to also make my readers aware of an interesting event taking place in NYC at the end of July.

Pumpkin Risotto

If you are a friend or client you know that one of the things that people love about my work are the many risottos in my arsenal. I love it! Nothing makes me happier than risotto and especially one that is made with patience and with a deft hand. Unfortunately, there’s a lot lack luster risotto being served in restaurants today. This causes many people to ask me what it takes to make risotto. My number one answer is patience and the best ingredients. However, I never would have gotten off the ground without the lessons taught to me in school by culinary professionals.

Imagine my fascination when I heard about the following event coming to New York this July. The Risotto Rendezvous on Wednesday, July 27, 2011 from 6:30 p.m. – 8:30 p.m. at the International Culinary Center in downtown New York.

Michelle Lawton of “The Joyful Plate,” and Lina Pernigo, chef at La Foresteria Serègo Alighieri at Masi, will prepare and serve three risotto courses while instructing guests as she cooks. What also makes this event special is that Raffaele Boscaini, of Masi Agricola, will be hosting the event and pairing a number of Masi wines with the food. I can’t think of a more interesting evening for someone who enjoys the wines of the Veneto and the joys of risotto.

For anyone who follows this blog, you may recall that the 2005 Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Costasera, was one of my top ten wines from the Gambero Rosso, Tre Bicchieri tasting in NYC earlier this year. This event makes for an excellent way to learn about risotto and Masi. I’m hoping to be there myself, if my schedule permits.

To purchase tickets: Masi Risotto Rendezvous
Masi website: Masi Agricola

Some of my recent notes on Masi wines:

2007 Masi Campofiorin Ripasso Veronese IGT - The nose showed black cherry, dusty potpourri and sautéed mushroom with hints of cinnamon and clove. It was soft and enveloping on the palate with wild berries, and spices leading to a juicy sweet finish with red fruits and minerals lingering to the end (91 points)

2005 Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Serègo Alighieri Vaio Armaron - The nose showed black cherry, yet it was savory as salty cheeses and holiday spice filled the senses. On the palate, it showed a full body with cherry liquor, herbs, cedar and earth. A little sweet but wonderfully finessed with a long, slightly pepper filled finish. (92 points)

2005 Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Costasera - The nose showed rich black cherry, spices and tree bark, yet there was something animal about this wine that truly balanced the seductive fruit. On the palate, it was large scaled and rich, with cherry and spice, yet still feminine and graceful. The finish was long yet fresh. (93 points)

Value reds from around the boot

I’m always on a quest for new, exciting and affordable Italian wines. Italian wine can be quite a minefield in this price range and I’ve certainly tasted through my share of unremarkable bottles. However, each of the bottles below represents an excellent value for what’s in the glass. Plus, there’s something for everyone, from pure Italian typicity, as in the Burlotto Langhe Freisa, to an internationally styled wine in overdrive, like the Terre di Sava, Luccarelli Pazzia. So read on, and take your pick, as each of these is currently available at retail.

Veneto

The Veneto

Masi was one of the first Italian wine companies in my vocabulary. After tasting a young 2000 Masi Sergio Alighieri Amarone, I was convinced that this was a producer of the highest quality. Now many years later, and these wines from Verona continue to impress. Just last February, their 2005 Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Costasera wow’d me at the Gambero Rosso tasting in NYC. But one cannot just always drink Amarone, and Masi has the answer; The Campofiorin. Masi Campofiorin consists of a mix of traditional Veronese grapes; but what’s different from this, and a typical Valpolicella, is that Masi double ferments the Campofiorin, with the second fermentation having semi-dried grapes added to the mix. However, this is not just Valpolicella in overdrive. Instead, it is rich, intriguing--yet vibrant and so obviously Italian. It’s a highly enjoyable glass of wine.

2007 Masi Campofiorin Ripasso Veronese IGT - The nose showed black cherry, dusty potpourri and sautéed mushroom with hints of cinnamon and clove. It was soft and enveloping on the palate with wild berries, and spices leading to a juicy sweet finish with red fruits and minerals lingering to the end. (91 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

Piedmont

Piedmonte

Gigi Rosso, a winery in Castiglione Falletto, Piedmont, is a new name to me but one that I’ll certainly look for again. Dolcetto has come a long way in recent years, with many producers aiming for more internationally styled wines that, unfortunately, come across as overdone and chewy. Luckily, there are still many producers making Dolcetto in the style I prefer, which is fresh, earthy, easy-drinking and with that textbook Italian acidity that makes them perfect with food… this is one of those wines.

2008 Gigi Rosso Dolcetto Diano d'Alba Moncolombetto – The nose showed woodland aromas with black wild berries, hints of wood and just the right amount of undergrowth. On the palate, I found a soft and juicy expression of blackberry fruit leading to florals and hints of bitters on the finish. This Dolcetto showed just the right amount of fruit bolstered by earth to keep it very interesting and highly drinkable. (90 points) Not yet available on WIne-Searcher!

Comm. G.B. Burlotto produces some of the most unique Baroli on the market today. Bottles that can age effortlessly for decades yet still show their roots and unique terrior. However, this house also produces a number of local varietal bottles, such as Barbera, Dolcetto and Freisa. Freisa is a varietal that we are seeing more and more often on the shelves of American wine shops, and I couldn’t be happier. These are intense wines, sometimes made in a slight fizzante style, but when made in a dry style where proper attention is paid in the vineyard and winery, can produce wines of remarkable depth that are far from just daily drinkers.

2007 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Langhe Freisa - The nose showed a mix of sweet and salty, as brown sugar and dark spice cookie with hints of Pecorino and violets wafted up from the glass. On the palate, acidity battled against bitters and resulted in wonderful fresh expression of brambly black berry and cinnamon. It turned a little bitter again toward the close. This is a very enjoyable wine, but I would suggest opening it with a meal to balance the bitters and acidity. (90 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

Abruzzo

Abruzzo

Montepulciano d'Abruzzo was first introduced to me by the affordable and always enjoyable Cantina Zaccagnini (which may very well have been included here had I tasted the most recent vintage). However, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is almost always enjoyable and certainly easily drinkable, but what it usually lacks is character. This wine had character in spades. The La Valentina Montepulciano, when popped and poured, seemed like just another good Italian sipper, but what really impressed me was how it evolved over the course of a few hours. It’s still difficult, in my opinion, to find Montepulciano d'Abruzzo that will thrill you. However, La Valentina proves that you can certainly find wines of the highest quality that will intrigue and impress at an excellent price point.

2005 Fattoria La Valentina Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Spelt - The nose showed blueberries, clove, wood barrel and a hint of manure. On the palate, I found juicy cherry with a sour note, dark chocolate and a nice bitter bite that lasted into the finish. At first, this wine was easy-drinking, fun and pleasingly soft on the palate, but what was more interesting was how it picked up nuances and depth with time in the glass. (89 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

Puglia

Puglia

Primitivo, often associated with American Zinfandel, but still in debate as to whether or not they are truly related, certainly makes a case for showing many similar qualities to Zinfandel. This bottle was a perfect example, as it showed the rich and brambly fruit and intensity. What I really enjoyed about it was how fresh the palate became, even after being coating in rich fruit. This is certainly a bottle to look for if your preference is massive, complex and palate-staining wine.

2007 Terre di Sava Primitivo di Manduria Luccarelli Pazzia – The nose on this wine was massive, with dark chocolate, sweet cherry liquor, blueberry syrup, chestnut and hints of caramel. However, on the palate, it managed to play a balancing act between power and finesse as flavors of black cherry with herbs and spice bombarded the taste buds, only to be washed away by balanced acidity. The finish was long in ripe, dark red fruits. I wouldn’t have guessed Italian, but it is certainly an attractive wine that will find many fans in the market of big, internationally styled wines. (90 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

Tuscany

Tuscany

Avignonesi is an estate that has become synonymous with Vino Nobile and produces a range of wines from easy-drinking Sangiovese to one of the most sought after Vin Santos in production: “Occhio di Pernice”. Of their Vino Nobile line, the houses flagship bottle, the “Riserva Grandi Annate.” is a top-shelf bottle that often receives critical praise and is highly sought after by collectors. However, in my opinion, the real gem is the affordable, easy drinking and entry level Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.

2007 Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano - This wine showed a very internationally styled bouquet, with aromas of cherry, wild berry, cinnamon sugar and cacao powder rising from the glass. With time, the sweetshop aromas backed off and allowed spice and floral undergrowth to come forward. On the palate, I found red berries and clove with a hint of sweetness but very fresh through the long juicy finish. This wine may not have shown its Italian roots very well, but it was enjoyable in a new world kind of way. (91 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

Piaggia has quickly become one of my favorite producers in Tuscany. They can be found in the Carmignano growing area, with wines that easily give the best Chianti a run for it’s money. The 2007 Il Sasso was one of my wines of the year in 2010. The 2007, takes all the lush fruit and glamour of the 2006, but adds a brooding structure that will likely allow it to drink well for over a decade. It is a beautiful wine at an amazing price.

2007 Piaggia Carmignano Il Sasso - The nose showed cherry and herbs with undergrowth and a hint of new oak. The palate showed a medium body but with silky elegance and flavors of cherry, pomegranate and dark chocolate, with a slight austerity. The finish was long yet fresh with silky tannin. This bottle was feminine yet muscular and should drink even better after being in the cellar for a few more years. (92 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

What constitutes value? Is it a dollar amount or a comparison of what’s in the glass versus what tariff you pay? I would argue it’s the latter, and in the case of the 2000 Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio, I believe its value is absolute. I have always been a fan of Il Poggio, which is a long-lived wine that is periodically released by the winery as a “library wine” and can often command prices of $100 and up (way up). But in the case of the 2000 vintage, this wine is already showing remarkable nuance and soft resolved tannin against plush fruit, and at a price of $42, it’s a remarkable value.

2000 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio – The nose showed dark vibrant red fruits with earth, minerals, spice, cocoa, old wood and a savory baked butter crust quality. On the palate, I found lush ripe strawberry, mushroom and leather with beautiful balance and a full body. The finish was long with red fruit and spice that went on and on. (93 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

Gambero Rosso, Tre Bicchieri: The Who's Who of Italian Wine.

Gambero Rosso, the world’s authority on Italian food, wine and travel, are also the creators of Gambero Rosso’s Italian Wines, vini d’Italia 2011 and recognized to be the definitive annual guide to Italian wines. The term Tre Bicchieri (or three glasses) is a coveted award bestowed upon the best wines of Italy. Over 70 experts traveled around Italy for months, considering the samples (over 30,000 this year) from every region before classifying each and writing a review. From those, the best scoring wines are then assembled for further review and scores are assigned. One, two or, the highest honor, Tre Bicchieri.

The book is a who’s who of Italian wine and I highly recommend it; but what’s more, in an attempt to publicize Gambero Rosso’s Italian Wines, Gambero Rosso hosts a worldwide tour where industry and press can meet the producers, taste the wines and make their own judgments. Imagine if you will, tasting what’s already been deemed the best of the best.

From this tasting, I was able to spend time with 41 different wines that truly moved me to take notes. Of those 41, I have provided you with my top 10, as well as a link to all of my notes, for those who are interested. Keep in mind that some of these wines are not yet released but are well worth remembering, and each of these will find their way into my personal collection.

Arnaldo-Caprai

Arnaldo-Caprai has become synonymous with Sagrantino. He is a pioneer in the production of this still-obscure varietal that will only continue to gain notoriety. Sagrantino comes from Umbria and is a wine that can be enjoyed in its youth with decanting or age in your cellar. The 2007 25th Anni is one of the best examples I have yet to taste and a standout at the Tri-Bicchieri tasting.

2007 Arnaldo-Caprai Sagrantino di Montefalco 25 Anni – On the nose, this wine was a monster with raspberry, holiday spices and dark earthy and forest notes. It verged on sweet, but there was something primal about this Sagrantino, which pulled it back to reality. On the palate, a massive wave of concentration was turned fresh by vibrant acidity, as blackberry jam, pomegranate, cinnamon and herbs washed across the tongue like silk. The finish showed this wine’s intimidating structure, as velvety tannin coated the mouth. The Arnaldo Caprai 25 Anni is highly enjoyable now and will likely age into something magical. (96 points) Info: Arnaldo-Caprai website (not yet available on Wine-Searcher, check back soon.)

Vietti

Vietti: Last year, I published an article called “If I had to choose one winery?,” labeling Vietti as the one I would choose. My feelings have not changed. Vietti’s Baroli are some of the most exquisite examples you can acquire. The Rocche is my favorite, and in 2006 it does not disappoint. This is a wine for your cellar.

2006 Vietti Barolo Rocche – The nose showed wild berries, undergrowth and spice with a feminine floral overtone. On the palate, I found rich dark fruits buried in a firm, tight structure of tannin and a lovely, long finish. This wine should be a beauty with a decade or two of cellaring. (95 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

Castello di Monsanto

Castello di Monsanto continues to show its unending devotion to traditional Chianti. Their Chianti riserva is, year in and year out, one of the best values of the vintage. However, it’s the Il Poggio Riserva that rivals the greatest Sangiovese in Tuscany. Drink this, and you will know what Sangiovese is capable of.

2006 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio – The 2006 Il Poggio was Tuscany personified as aromas of animal musk, spice, wild berries and forest notes wafted up from the glass. On the palate, this wine showed wild red berries and autumnal notes with a mouth-feel of pure silk. The finish was long in sour berry and spice. (94 points) Info: Monsanto website (not yet available on Wine-Searcher, check back soon.)

Pieropan

Pieropan: Soave doesn’t need to just be a simple quaffer that’s easily forgotten, and Pieropan continues to prove that point in spades. These are whites to rival the best from around the world, and they will not break the bank.

2008 Pieropan Soave Classico La Rocca – The nose showed pear, spring flowers, and wet stones. On the palate, it showed a medium, plush body with stone fruits, more floral notes and minerals. A long, refreshing finish added exclamation to an already goergeous expression of Soave. (93 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

Donnafugata

Donnafugata: This is a newcomer to my vocabulary but in no way new to making great wine. Donnafugata shows that Southern Italian wine has truly come into its own.

2007 Donnafugata Contessa Entellina Tancredi – The nose showed crushed wild berries, floral underbrush, licorice and sawmill. On the palate, there was focused red fruits with cedar and herbal fruit tea which filled out every bit of an otherwise tightly-wound performance. The finish was long but airy and fresh. I believe this is highly enjoyable now with a good decant, but it should do even better if left for a year or two in the cellar. (93 points) Info: Donnafugata Website (not yet available on Wine-Searcher, check back soon.)

Paolo Conterno

Paolo Conterno: The more I taste the wines from the Ginestra vineyard, the more I love them; and in 2006, Paolo Conterno has given me another bottle to add to my cellar. The aromatics of this wine thrilled me. As with most Barolo, this bottle will likely shut down for a number of years, but for now it provides an early peak into its bright future.

2006 Paolo Conterno Barolo Ginestra – This wine showed an interesting nose of bergamont, musky animal fur, olive and minerals. On the palate, it was silky yet structured with focused red fruit, leather and earth. The finish was long with wild red berries. (93 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

Masi

Masi: One of my first remarkable Amarone experiences was with a bottle of Costasera Riserva, and this tasting showed that it wasn’t just a one-night stand. This wine was vibrant, rich and dark, but it kept a level of freshness that was exhilarating.

2005 Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Costasera – The nose showed rich black cherry, spices and tree bark, yet there was something animal about this wine that truly balanced the seductive fruit. On the palate, it was large-scaled and rich with cherry and spice, yet still feminine and graceful. The finish was long yet fresh. (93 points) Info: Masi website (not yet available on Wine-Searcher, check back soon.)

Fattoria di Fèlsina

Fattoria di Fèlsina: After Vietti and Giacomo Conterno, the largest amount of bottles I own from a single winery are from Fattoria di Fèlsina. Why? Consistent quality over decades is the answer. The Fontalloro is certainly more enjoyable now than the Rancia, as is often the case, but these are wines that will also do well in your cellar.

2007 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Fontalloro – The 2007 Fontalloro showed dark red fruits, leather and red spices on the nose. The palate showed a firm structure with red fruits, coffee and earthy notes. The finish was long with floral berries and wood tones. (92 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

Nino Negri

Nino Negri: For a completely different expression of Nebbiolo, try the Nino Negri 5 Stelle from Lombardia. It is made in a style similar to Amarone, but there are additional qualities that only Nebbiolo can bring to the table. (An honorable mention must also be made to Mamete Prevostini, another producer of Sforzato, who nearly made this list.)

2007 Nino Negri Valtellina Sfursat 5 Stelle – The nose of the 5 Stelle showed dark forest notes with cherry and spice. On the palate, it revealed a beautiful structure with rich cherry fruit against soil and earth notes. The long finish showed red berries. This is a wine I will buy with the intention of opening in two or three year’s time. (91 points) Info: Nino Negri website (not yet available on Wine-Searcher, check back soon.)

Cascina Corte

Cascina Corte: I am a confessed lover of Dolcetto, and I’m truly convinced that it’s worth international attention. Cascina Corte makes one that truly turned my head. Where some producers have been making Dolcetto too jammy or rich, Cascina Corte instead went for floral, finessed elegance. It’s a beautiful bottle deserving of the name Dolcetto.

2008 Cascina Corte Dolcetto di Dogliani Pirochetta Vecchie Vigne – The nose of the Cascina Corta Dolcetto had a beautiful, elegant floral profile with crushed blackberries and hint of menthol. On the palate, I found rich blackberry with hints of citrus peel. It was beautifully fresh and focused. (90 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

Resources:
For all of my notes from Gambero Rosso, Click Here.
Official Website of: Gambero Rosso