Value reds from around the boot

I’m always on a quest for new, exciting and affordable Italian wines. Italian wine can be quite a minefield in this price range and I’ve certainly tasted through my share of unremarkable bottles. However, each of the bottles below represents an excellent value for what’s in the glass. Plus, there’s something for everyone, from pure Italian typicity, as in the Burlotto Langhe Freisa, to an internationally styled wine in overdrive, like the Terre di Sava, Luccarelli Pazzia. So read on, and take your pick, as each of these is currently available at retail.

Veneto

The Veneto

Masi was one of the first Italian wine companies in my vocabulary. After tasting a young 2000 Masi Sergio Alighieri Amarone, I was convinced that this was a producer of the highest quality. Now many years later, and these wines from Verona continue to impress. Just last February, their 2005 Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Costasera wow’d me at the Gambero Rosso tasting in NYC. But one cannot just always drink Amarone, and Masi has the answer; The Campofiorin. Masi Campofiorin consists of a mix of traditional Veronese grapes; but what’s different from this, and a typical Valpolicella, is that Masi double ferments the Campofiorin, with the second fermentation having semi-dried grapes added to the mix. However, this is not just Valpolicella in overdrive. Instead, it is rich, intriguing--yet vibrant and so obviously Italian. It’s a highly enjoyable glass of wine.

2007 Masi Campofiorin Ripasso Veronese IGT - The nose showed black cherry, dusty potpourri and sautéed mushroom with hints of cinnamon and clove. It was soft and enveloping on the palate with wild berries, and spices leading to a juicy sweet finish with red fruits and minerals lingering to the end. (91 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

Piedmont

Piedmonte

Gigi Rosso, a winery in Castiglione Falletto, Piedmont, is a new name to me but one that I’ll certainly look for again. Dolcetto has come a long way in recent years, with many producers aiming for more internationally styled wines that, unfortunately, come across as overdone and chewy. Luckily, there are still many producers making Dolcetto in the style I prefer, which is fresh, earthy, easy-drinking and with that textbook Italian acidity that makes them perfect with food… this is one of those wines.

2008 Gigi Rosso Dolcetto Diano d'Alba Moncolombetto – The nose showed woodland aromas with black wild berries, hints of wood and just the right amount of undergrowth. On the palate, I found a soft and juicy expression of blackberry fruit leading to florals and hints of bitters on the finish. This Dolcetto showed just the right amount of fruit bolstered by earth to keep it very interesting and highly drinkable. (90 points) Not yet available on WIne-Searcher!

Comm. G.B. Burlotto produces some of the most unique Baroli on the market today. Bottles that can age effortlessly for decades yet still show their roots and unique terrior. However, this house also produces a number of local varietal bottles, such as Barbera, Dolcetto and Freisa. Freisa is a varietal that we are seeing more and more often on the shelves of American wine shops, and I couldn’t be happier. These are intense wines, sometimes made in a slight fizzante style, but when made in a dry style where proper attention is paid in the vineyard and winery, can produce wines of remarkable depth that are far from just daily drinkers.

2007 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Langhe Freisa - The nose showed a mix of sweet and salty, as brown sugar and dark spice cookie with hints of Pecorino and violets wafted up from the glass. On the palate, acidity battled against bitters and resulted in wonderful fresh expression of brambly black berry and cinnamon. It turned a little bitter again toward the close. This is a very enjoyable wine, but I would suggest opening it with a meal to balance the bitters and acidity. (90 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

Abruzzo

Abruzzo

Montepulciano d'Abruzzo was first introduced to me by the affordable and always enjoyable Cantina Zaccagnini (which may very well have been included here had I tasted the most recent vintage). However, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is almost always enjoyable and certainly easily drinkable, but what it usually lacks is character. This wine had character in spades. The La Valentina Montepulciano, when popped and poured, seemed like just another good Italian sipper, but what really impressed me was how it evolved over the course of a few hours. It’s still difficult, in my opinion, to find Montepulciano d'Abruzzo that will thrill you. However, La Valentina proves that you can certainly find wines of the highest quality that will intrigue and impress at an excellent price point.

2005 Fattoria La Valentina Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Spelt - The nose showed blueberries, clove, wood barrel and a hint of manure. On the palate, I found juicy cherry with a sour note, dark chocolate and a nice bitter bite that lasted into the finish. At first, this wine was easy-drinking, fun and pleasingly soft on the palate, but what was more interesting was how it picked up nuances and depth with time in the glass. (89 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

Puglia

Puglia

Primitivo, often associated with American Zinfandel, but still in debate as to whether or not they are truly related, certainly makes a case for showing many similar qualities to Zinfandel. This bottle was a perfect example, as it showed the rich and brambly fruit and intensity. What I really enjoyed about it was how fresh the palate became, even after being coating in rich fruit. This is certainly a bottle to look for if your preference is massive, complex and palate-staining wine.

2007 Terre di Sava Primitivo di Manduria Luccarelli Pazzia – The nose on this wine was massive, with dark chocolate, sweet cherry liquor, blueberry syrup, chestnut and hints of caramel. However, on the palate, it managed to play a balancing act between power and finesse as flavors of black cherry with herbs and spice bombarded the taste buds, only to be washed away by balanced acidity. The finish was long in ripe, dark red fruits. I wouldn’t have guessed Italian, but it is certainly an attractive wine that will find many fans in the market of big, internationally styled wines. (90 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

Tuscany

Tuscany

Avignonesi is an estate that has become synonymous with Vino Nobile and produces a range of wines from easy-drinking Sangiovese to one of the most sought after Vin Santos in production: “Occhio di Pernice”. Of their Vino Nobile line, the houses flagship bottle, the “Riserva Grandi Annate.” is a top-shelf bottle that often receives critical praise and is highly sought after by collectors. However, in my opinion, the real gem is the affordable, easy drinking and entry level Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.

2007 Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano - This wine showed a very internationally styled bouquet, with aromas of cherry, wild berry, cinnamon sugar and cacao powder rising from the glass. With time, the sweetshop aromas backed off and allowed spice and floral undergrowth to come forward. On the palate, I found red berries and clove with a hint of sweetness but very fresh through the long juicy finish. This wine may not have shown its Italian roots very well, but it was enjoyable in a new world kind of way. (91 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

Piaggia has quickly become one of my favorite producers in Tuscany. They can be found in the Carmignano growing area, with wines that easily give the best Chianti a run for it’s money. The 2007 Il Sasso was one of my wines of the year in 2010. The 2007, takes all the lush fruit and glamour of the 2006, but adds a brooding structure that will likely allow it to drink well for over a decade. It is a beautiful wine at an amazing price.

2007 Piaggia Carmignano Il Sasso - The nose showed cherry and herbs with undergrowth and a hint of new oak. The palate showed a medium body but with silky elegance and flavors of cherry, pomegranate and dark chocolate, with a slight austerity. The finish was long yet fresh with silky tannin. This bottle was feminine yet muscular and should drink even better after being in the cellar for a few more years. (92 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

What constitutes value? Is it a dollar amount or a comparison of what’s in the glass versus what tariff you pay? I would argue it’s the latter, and in the case of the 2000 Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio, I believe its value is absolute. I have always been a fan of Il Poggio, which is a long-lived wine that is periodically released by the winery as a “library wine” and can often command prices of $100 and up (way up). But in the case of the 2000 vintage, this wine is already showing remarkable nuance and soft resolved tannin against plush fruit, and at a price of $42, it’s a remarkable value.

2000 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio – The nose showed dark vibrant red fruits with earth, minerals, spice, cocoa, old wood and a savory baked butter crust quality. On the palate, I found lush ripe strawberry, mushroom and leather with beautiful balance and a full body. The finish was long with red fruit and spice that went on and on. (93 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

Painting the town Chocolate!

The place to be in New York City on April 3rd 2010 was not at some exclusive club or a red carpet event: in fact, it wasn't even in Manhattan. The place to be on April 3rd 2010 was in Brooklyn, across from the Brooklyn Museum at a chocolate party organized and executed by amateur chef Geneviéve Leloup. Oh yes, did I mention that she's from Belgium? Who better to make these chocolate culinary creations come to life?

Now, if your mind has suddenly taken you to thinking of simple samples of fine chocolate and sweet dishes gingerly laid out for the taster’s enjoyment, STOP. Instead, imagine a party centered on every manifestation of chocolate imaginable. Savory, salty and sweet all prepared with skill by a hostess so passionate about chocolate and delightful to know and speak to that you'd never want to leave.

Geneviéve Leloup's culinary education started in one of the best schools possible: her Mother's kitchen. The daughter of a masterful cook and professional baker, Geneviéve would spend as much time as possible learning the tricks of the trade. As an avid traveler and student of all things art, Geneviéve would later collect knowledge and recipes through friends she's made around the world. She added these recipes to a book, which serves as collection of recipes, friends and culinary memories of her life, which she still uses to this day. Today, Geneviéve spends more time developing her own recipes from the lessons she has learned, and the results are spectacular.

Upon entering the party, I was overtaken by an aromatic wave of all things chocolate. What was once a kitchen had been transformed into an exhibit of artful, edible delicacies. A chocolate olive tapenade wafted aromas of the Mediterranean into the air. On the stove, the Cincinnati Chili simmered away and assaulted my senses with smells of Christmas and spice. All throughout the apartment, in every corner and on every table, I found unique and exciting things to eat, each and every one of them made in some part with chocolate. It was an experience that each guest will always remember. The best part? I convinced Genevieve to share both her favorite and my favorite recipes of the evening with you.

What's Genevieve's favorite dish? Goat cheese with cocoa nibs, garlic, honey and ginger.




By mixing the bitter, dark crushed cocoa nibs with the soft palate coating goat cheese, you find a push and pull of texture and depth that can be enjoyed over and over again. The sweet hint of honey and ginger syrup adds a second layer of flavor that cuts the slightly dry feel of the cheese and cocoa nibs and is balanced by the garlic and herbs which work to pull you back to reality. It's a heavenly flavor and texture combination that must be tasted to truly understand.

4 Tbls. raw cacao beans
11 oz. log of goat cheese
½ clove of garlic (fine mince)
Herbes de Provence (to taste)
pepper (to taste)
1Tbsp liquid honey
1Tbsp ginger syrup (out of a bottle of preserved ginger)
1 baguette.

Crush about 4Tbsp raw cacao beans to make the cacao nibs. (An easy trick is to use a coffee grinder.)

Put the goat cheese into a bowl, soften it and mix in the cacao nibs. Add the garlic, some Herbes de Provence, and pepper (to taste).

Add the honey and ginger syrup, and mix well. Once combined, reshape into a log.

Because the flavors will continue to emerge over time, it is best to make it a day ahead.

When serving, sprinkle the log with some finely crushed cacao nibs or dust with cacao powder.

Serve with thin slices of baguette.

What was my favorite dish? Geneviève's Cincinnati Chili.

As difficult as the choice was to make, I found myself going back to Genevieve's Cincinnati Chili again and again. This isn’t anything like your average chili. It’s autumnal in a way and reminds me of all the things I love about fall and the holidays. The allspice and cinnamon mixed with the cocoa give it a depth of flavor that you only experience when eating the finest dark chocolate. The Chipotle takes on a spicy sweetness that is tantalizing on the palate and leaves behind a pleasant amount of heat on the finish. Each bite is just as good as the first and the texture is amazing. As I tested this recipe, I found that the most difficult thing about it was stopping myself from eating it right then and there.

The craziest part about this recipe is how insanely simple it is to make, yet how sinfully delicious it is to eat. When you read it, you may be tempted to add conventional chili preparations, but I urge you to fight that temptation and try it just as it is. Make sure to make this a day in advance to let the flavors truly come together over night.

First additions
1-quart water
2 pounds lean raw ground beef
2 large onions small dice

Second additions
2 (6oz.) cans tomato paste
2 tsp cinnamon
2 tsp cumin
2 tsp Lea & Perrins Worcestershire sauce
2 tsp garlic powder
2 tsp black pepper
1 tsp red pepper (The chili is not too hot but you can cut this in half, if you want less heat.)
3 Tbls. chili powder
½ tsp. Chipotle powder
2-½ tsp salt
2 tsp ground allspice
2 Tbsp cider vinegar
3 Bay leaves
2 ½ Tbls Cocoa Powder (unsweetened)

Last addition
40 grams 70% dark chocolate (chopped)

Garnish
Sour Cream
Nachos
2 Tbls. Fresh chopped parsley or cilantro

Have all of your ingredients measured out.

In a large saucepot over medium high heat, add the water, ground beef and onions. With a spoon, break up the beef as the water comes up to a boil. It’s important for the beef to be completely broken up.

Once the mixture comes to a boil, add all the ingredients from the second addition, stir to combine completely and return the pot to a boil. Once it returns to a boil, reduce to a simmer (uncovered) and set your timer for 2 ½ hours.

Throughout this time, make sure to stir the mixture every 15 to 20 minutes. Assure that the chili is not sticking to the bottom of the pan, and if it is, consider lowering the burner.

When there is a half hour left on the timer, take a small pot and fill 1/3 with water. Place a metal bowl over the pot and turn the flame under this pot to the lowest setting (hence creating a double boiler). Be careful, as the water should not touch the bottom of the bowl.

When there is about 15 minutes left on the timer, add the chopped 70% chocolate to the bowl. Stir constantly and keep the chocolate from the sides or it may burn. Once the chocolate has melted completely, remove the bowl from the pot and place to the side.

Turn off the flame under the chili, and pour the melted chocolate into the pot. Stir to combine. Taste the chili and season with salt and pepper, if necessary.

To plate, prepare a plate with sour cream and tortilla chips. Ladle a healthy dose of chili onto the plate and garnish with your choice of chopped parsley or cilantro. Clean the rims of your plates with a warm moist towel and serve.

Need wine pairings for your Cincinnati Chili? I tested this recipe with a group of tasters and the two wines below were easily up to the challenge.

A Mano Primitivo, Prima Mano 2006 – This wine shows a dark purple color with aromas of blueberry, crushed fall leaves, animal musk and caramel rising from the glass. On the palate, it shows a full body with an excess fruit but excellent acidity which keeps this from ever being overwhelming. Cherry, prune and a long finish is present with raisin and mulling spices. This primitivo stood tall next to the Cincinnati Chili, as its rich fruit accentuated the allspice and cinnamon while providing a finish rich enough to handle the residual heat of the chipotle and cayenne pepper.

Find this Wine on Wine-Searcher!

Pure Love, Layer Cake Shiraz 2008 – The nose is fresh and bright with sweet brambly berries, cedar and a hint of forest floor. On the palate, you find rich raspberry jam, cinnamon and vanilla with a finish that hints at milk chocolate. With all of these sweet and rich descriptors you’d expect this wine to be overdone, but the true beauty of it is that it comes off as refreshing and satisfying.

Find this wine on Wine-Searcher!

For those of you who have still not reached your chocolate fill, the pictures below are sure to truly satisfy...

Savory Cream Cheese Bites

Chocolate Sandies with smoked salt

Lime Mint Chocolate Tartlets

Chocolate Fondue with a drop of Cognac

Chocolate Olive Tapenade

Chocolate Salami

Dark Chocolate Mousse

Beet Chocolate spread

Mole Pecans

Mole Carrots

Geneviéve Leloup is a designer, graphic artist, children's book illustrator, musician, amateur chef, and lover of all things chocolate!
For more information you can see her website HERE!