Year in Review: Top 10 wines of 2011

It’s that time again.  2011 is coming to a close, and the holidays are in full swing.  I’m sorting through recipes for Christmas Eve, Christmas parties and New Year’s bashes.  However, before I get too deep into things, I love to look back over the past year and my 500+ tasting notes for my top ten wines.  This isn’t a list that’s built through politicking or overthinking the subject.  Instead, these are my favorite ten wines of the year in three categories; mid-priced gems, top shelf wines and vintages wines.  You may notice that I don’t have a value wine section, but that’s because my article “Give the gift of wine for Christmas” spells out the best value wines I’ve had this year.

Looking over this list, I’m not surprised to see such a large representation made by Italian wines.  Italian wine was my first love in life, and it continues to amaze me for both quality and value.  Nowhere else can such world-class wine be had for the relative value Italian wines represent.  However, I’m also very happy to see wines from Germany, Spain and California.

Top Mid-priced Wines

Each of these bottles delivers the goods in spades, and if you compared how good they are, against how much they cost, then you’d see that each of them is a relative value.  This is the sweet spot where I find my most enjoyable drinking, because they perform beautifully, but won’t break the bank.  Give one of these to your boss for Christmas or New Year’s, and there would be no shame.

2006 Piaggia Carmignano Riserva - The nose showed ripe black cherry, herbal fruit tea, leather, and dusty potpourri.  On the palate, it was as soft as silk and flowed effortlessly across the senses.  It was structured yet elegant with unmistakable Tuscan character and flavors of black cherry juice, mixed herbs and sweet spices.  The finish lasted, showing red fruits with the slightest bitter character.  The Carmignano Riserva walks the line between sex appeal and restraint, and the result is something magical.  Give it an hour to decant, and let this beauty dazzle you. (95 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2007 Vietti Barbera d'Asti La Crena -The nose showed crushed blackberry and plum, along with a hint of undergrowth and a dark toasty note.  On the palate, a rich, velvety wave of dark fruits swept across the senses with bitter dark chocolate. The intense fruit and zesty acidity cloaked this wine’s imposing structure, which was most noticeable on the long mouth-puckering finish. I am eager to see what this wine will mature into. (94 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2009 Ridge Zinfandel Pagani Ranch - The nose was massive, as aromas of wild berries, dry coco, vanilla, ginger spice and savory notes filled the senses.  On the palate, it was medium to full-bodied with amazing focus to its intense red berry fruit and spice.  The masses of fruit slowly gave way to show this wine’s structure and balance.  The finish was long and clinging to the palate, yet ultimately refreshing as the tannins faded away.  I seriously enjoyed this structured Zinfandel and am very happy to have more in my cellar, as I can imagine that it will get even better with time. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2009 Peter Lauer Ayler Kupp Riesling Senior Faß 6 - The nose showed lime, green apple, white flowers and wet rocks.  It was simple yet perfectly enjoyable.  However, on the palate, this wine came to life, with rich and concentrated grapefruit, sweet lemon curd, which then turned to acid, minerals and stone--but then went back to sweetness into the long citrus finish.  This wine kept me guessing what each new sip would reveal.  It was amazingly fresh and enjoyable. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Top Shelf Wines

Sometimes the occasion calls for the best wines, and the ones listed below are sure to please.  These are wines that some may refer to as “collectable.”  However, I prefer to call them highly drinkable.  These are bottles that will blow away the competition and leave no survivors.  They may cost a pretty penny, but they’re worth every red cent.

2006 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio - The 2006 Il Poggio was Tuscany personified, as aromas of animal musk, spice, wild berries and forest notes wafted up from the glass.  On the palate, this wine showed wild red berries and autumnal notes with a mouth-feel of pure silk.  The finish was long in sour berry and spice. (94 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2007 Arnaldo-Caprai Sagrantino di Montefalco 25 Anni - On the nose, this wine was a monster with raspberry, holiday spices and dark forest notes.  It verged on sweet, but something animal about this Sagrantino pulled it back to reality.  On the palate, a massive wave of concentration was turned fresh by vibrant acidity, as blackberry jam, pomegranate, cinnamon and herbs washed across the tongue like silk.  The finish showed this wine’s intimidating structure, as velvety tannin coated the mouth.  The Arnaldo Caprai 25 Anni is highly enjoyable now and will likely age into something magical. (96 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2001 Tommaso Bussola Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Tb - At first, the nose showed black cherries with dark chocolate and tobacco; however, as it opened up in the glass, aromas of herbs and seared meat in a buttery crust filled the nose.  It was all at once a sweet and savory intoxicating bouquet.  On the palate, it was full with a hint of sweetness, as macerated cherry, rum raisin and Christmas spice lingered into a long and pleasing finish.  This may be made in a rich and sweet style, but it still manages to glide effortlessly across the palate with perfect balance and a graceful finish. (95 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Top Vintage Wines

If you’re anything like me, then it’s the older vintage wines that truly make cellaring wine worthwhile.  Don’t get me wrong; I love young wines, but if there were a choice, I’d grab a 20+-year-old Barolo any day.  These are all wines older than ten years that truly made me stop and take notice in 2011.

1990 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda - This wine was everything I ever wanted in a glass of Barolo.  It was sweet yet sour, earthy yet fruity and rich yet with razor-like focus.  The nose showed masses of ripe red berries with hot dried spices, gravelly moist earth, mushroom and hints of green stems.  On the palate, this showed silky, sweet, ripe strawberry, yet it also had a savory warmth, full of earth, menthol and leather strap on a beautifully structured frame.  It was amazing how young the Collina Rionda seemed as silky tannin washed across the palate and soothed me into a long, seductive finish that begged for the next sip. (98 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

1990 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Valbuena 5° - The 1990 Vega-Sicilia wowed me with its rich yet elegant personality.  The nose showed cherry preserves and cranberry with hints of clove, vanilla and burnt sugar.  However, with how rich and young the nose seemed, there was an underlying earthiness and hint of musky animal fur that truly kept it interesting.  On the palate, it was elegant, with a velvety feel on the tongue as flavors of rich red then black fruits and dusty spices assaulted the senses.  The finish was long and turned from juicy to sour as the fruit faded away. (96 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2000 Mastroberardino Taurasi Radici Riserva - The nose showed beautifully with ripe strawberry and potpourri; yet as the wine sat in the glass, it turned darker and fuller with notes of candle wax, earth, mushrooms and moist fall leaves.  On the palate, this wine was eloquent and soft at first but turned more tannic into the finish.  The senses were wrapped with penetrating black fruit, followed by minerals and a taste of older wood, which gave it a bit of a rustic feel.  The finish was laden with intense cranberry fruit, giving it a really nice sendoff.  This wine is just starting to show its age, yet still has many more years to go before its structure truly softens. (95 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Value reds from around the boot

I’m always on a quest for new, exciting and affordable Italian wines. Italian wine can be quite a minefield in this price range and I’ve certainly tasted through my share of unremarkable bottles. However, each of the bottles below represents an excellent value for what’s in the glass. Plus, there’s something for everyone, from pure Italian typicity, as in the Burlotto Langhe Freisa, to an internationally styled wine in overdrive, like the Terre di Sava, Luccarelli Pazzia. So read on, and take your pick, as each of these is currently available at retail.

Veneto

The Veneto

Masi was one of the first Italian wine companies in my vocabulary. After tasting a young 2000 Masi Sergio Alighieri Amarone, I was convinced that this was a producer of the highest quality. Now many years later, and these wines from Verona continue to impress. Just last February, their 2005 Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Costasera wow’d me at the Gambero Rosso tasting in NYC. But one cannot just always drink Amarone, and Masi has the answer; The Campofiorin. Masi Campofiorin consists of a mix of traditional Veronese grapes; but what’s different from this, and a typical Valpolicella, is that Masi double ferments the Campofiorin, with the second fermentation having semi-dried grapes added to the mix. However, this is not just Valpolicella in overdrive. Instead, it is rich, intriguing--yet vibrant and so obviously Italian. It’s a highly enjoyable glass of wine.

2007 Masi Campofiorin Ripasso Veronese IGT - The nose showed black cherry, dusty potpourri and sautéed mushroom with hints of cinnamon and clove. It was soft and enveloping on the palate with wild berries, and spices leading to a juicy sweet finish with red fruits and minerals lingering to the end. (91 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

Piedmont

Piedmonte

Gigi Rosso, a winery in Castiglione Falletto, Piedmont, is a new name to me but one that I’ll certainly look for again. Dolcetto has come a long way in recent years, with many producers aiming for more internationally styled wines that, unfortunately, come across as overdone and chewy. Luckily, there are still many producers making Dolcetto in the style I prefer, which is fresh, earthy, easy-drinking and with that textbook Italian acidity that makes them perfect with food… this is one of those wines.

2008 Gigi Rosso Dolcetto Diano d'Alba Moncolombetto – The nose showed woodland aromas with black wild berries, hints of wood and just the right amount of undergrowth. On the palate, I found a soft and juicy expression of blackberry fruit leading to florals and hints of bitters on the finish. This Dolcetto showed just the right amount of fruit bolstered by earth to keep it very interesting and highly drinkable. (90 points) Not yet available on WIne-Searcher!

Comm. G.B. Burlotto produces some of the most unique Baroli on the market today. Bottles that can age effortlessly for decades yet still show their roots and unique terrior. However, this house also produces a number of local varietal bottles, such as Barbera, Dolcetto and Freisa. Freisa is a varietal that we are seeing more and more often on the shelves of American wine shops, and I couldn’t be happier. These are intense wines, sometimes made in a slight fizzante style, but when made in a dry style where proper attention is paid in the vineyard and winery, can produce wines of remarkable depth that are far from just daily drinkers.

2007 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Langhe Freisa - The nose showed a mix of sweet and salty, as brown sugar and dark spice cookie with hints of Pecorino and violets wafted up from the glass. On the palate, acidity battled against bitters and resulted in wonderful fresh expression of brambly black berry and cinnamon. It turned a little bitter again toward the close. This is a very enjoyable wine, but I would suggest opening it with a meal to balance the bitters and acidity. (90 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

Abruzzo

Abruzzo

Montepulciano d'Abruzzo was first introduced to me by the affordable and always enjoyable Cantina Zaccagnini (which may very well have been included here had I tasted the most recent vintage). However, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is almost always enjoyable and certainly easily drinkable, but what it usually lacks is character. This wine had character in spades. The La Valentina Montepulciano, when popped and poured, seemed like just another good Italian sipper, but what really impressed me was how it evolved over the course of a few hours. It’s still difficult, in my opinion, to find Montepulciano d'Abruzzo that will thrill you. However, La Valentina proves that you can certainly find wines of the highest quality that will intrigue and impress at an excellent price point.

2005 Fattoria La Valentina Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Spelt - The nose showed blueberries, clove, wood barrel and a hint of manure. On the palate, I found juicy cherry with a sour note, dark chocolate and a nice bitter bite that lasted into the finish. At first, this wine was easy-drinking, fun and pleasingly soft on the palate, but what was more interesting was how it picked up nuances and depth with time in the glass. (89 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

Puglia

Puglia

Primitivo, often associated with American Zinfandel, but still in debate as to whether or not they are truly related, certainly makes a case for showing many similar qualities to Zinfandel. This bottle was a perfect example, as it showed the rich and brambly fruit and intensity. What I really enjoyed about it was how fresh the palate became, even after being coating in rich fruit. This is certainly a bottle to look for if your preference is massive, complex and palate-staining wine.

2007 Terre di Sava Primitivo di Manduria Luccarelli Pazzia – The nose on this wine was massive, with dark chocolate, sweet cherry liquor, blueberry syrup, chestnut and hints of caramel. However, on the palate, it managed to play a balancing act between power and finesse as flavors of black cherry with herbs and spice bombarded the taste buds, only to be washed away by balanced acidity. The finish was long in ripe, dark red fruits. I wouldn’t have guessed Italian, but it is certainly an attractive wine that will find many fans in the market of big, internationally styled wines. (90 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

Tuscany

Tuscany

Avignonesi is an estate that has become synonymous with Vino Nobile and produces a range of wines from easy-drinking Sangiovese to one of the most sought after Vin Santos in production: “Occhio di Pernice”. Of their Vino Nobile line, the houses flagship bottle, the “Riserva Grandi Annate.” is a top-shelf bottle that often receives critical praise and is highly sought after by collectors. However, in my opinion, the real gem is the affordable, easy drinking and entry level Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.

2007 Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano - This wine showed a very internationally styled bouquet, with aromas of cherry, wild berry, cinnamon sugar and cacao powder rising from the glass. With time, the sweetshop aromas backed off and allowed spice and floral undergrowth to come forward. On the palate, I found red berries and clove with a hint of sweetness but very fresh through the long juicy finish. This wine may not have shown its Italian roots very well, but it was enjoyable in a new world kind of way. (91 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

Piaggia has quickly become one of my favorite producers in Tuscany. They can be found in the Carmignano growing area, with wines that easily give the best Chianti a run for it’s money. The 2007 Il Sasso was one of my wines of the year in 2010. The 2007, takes all the lush fruit and glamour of the 2006, but adds a brooding structure that will likely allow it to drink well for over a decade. It is a beautiful wine at an amazing price.

2007 Piaggia Carmignano Il Sasso - The nose showed cherry and herbs with undergrowth and a hint of new oak. The palate showed a medium body but with silky elegance and flavors of cherry, pomegranate and dark chocolate, with a slight austerity. The finish was long yet fresh with silky tannin. This bottle was feminine yet muscular and should drink even better after being in the cellar for a few more years. (92 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

What constitutes value? Is it a dollar amount or a comparison of what’s in the glass versus what tariff you pay? I would argue it’s the latter, and in the case of the 2000 Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio, I believe its value is absolute. I have always been a fan of Il Poggio, which is a long-lived wine that is periodically released by the winery as a “library wine” and can often command prices of $100 and up (way up). But in the case of the 2000 vintage, this wine is already showing remarkable nuance and soft resolved tannin against plush fruit, and at a price of $42, it’s a remarkable value.

2000 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio – The nose showed dark vibrant red fruits with earth, minerals, spice, cocoa, old wood and a savory baked butter crust quality. On the palate, I found lush ripe strawberry, mushroom and leather with beautiful balance and a full body. The finish was long with red fruit and spice that went on and on. (93 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

Year in Review: My top 4 wines of 2010

With 2010 now at a close, it’s time for me to look back on some of the best bottles I’ve enjoyed over the past 12 months. I’m really happy to say that my top value and top shelf wines of the year are still readily available at retail. What’s even better is that my top shelf bottle falls under $50. A truly defining revelation I had was when I realized that, out of 355 tasting notes written this year, each of my top wines were Italian. That’s not to say that I don’t enjoy the wines of other regions. However, it does show that my heart is still in Italy. In my opinion, no other region shows the mix of diversity, opulence, style, finesse and sheer drinkability of Italian wines.

On to the wines:

Value Wine of The Year
(Sub $25 bottle that’s still available at retail)

Tuscany gave us many great wines from the ’06 vintage and it doesn’t surprise me that my value wine of the year hails from this region. However, what was a bit of a surprise was that it was not from Chianti Classico or Montalcino, instead it came from Carmignano. This Sangiovese blend, made in a classy and seductive style, was an easy choice, and the best part, is that it’s still available at retail for around $22.

2006 Piaggia Carmignano Il Sasso - Amazing nose like a basket of ripe red fruits. First it was raspberry, then wild berries and then cherry cough drops followed up by cedar and saddle leather with a hint of toasty oak. The palate revealed sour cherries, crème fraiche and clove with a medium body and wonderfully brisk acidity, leading to a nice long red berry finish. (93 Points)

Find it on Wine-Searcher

Top shelf Wine of The Year
(Fancy dinner or need to make an impression, a great bottle in the $35 - $100 range)

In 2009, I tried the ‘03 L’Arco Pario and was immediately impressed by its concentration and Amarone like character with layers of aromatic detail. However, when I tasted the 2004, I was floored. It had all of the rich and detailed aromatics and flavors but was fortified by a level of finesse that brought it from good to great. This is a spellbinding wine from the Veneto region and it’s made by a producer who’s yet to be truly discovered by mainstream media.

2004 L'Arco Pario Veronese IGT - L'arco took it up a step with the Pario in 2004. What came across as residual sweetness in the '03 has been turned into a sweet and sour effect on the palate of the '04. The nose was intense with dark port-like fruits, Christmas spice and ginger bread. On the palate I found a fresh sweet and sour play with a burst of spiced sour cherry and a dark run raisin that led into the long finish. This wine was, all at once, rich yet finessed and truly stunning on the nose. (94 Points)

Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Vintage Wine of The Year
(For some of us, aged wine has no equal. My top bottle with at least 15 years of age.)

I knew the day I tasted this wine that it would end up as one of my top wines of the year. The ’89 vintage of Barolo has truly shown to be a legend in the making and the Conterno, Cascina Francia, has been the top bottle that I have yet to tasted to date. Amazing to think that this is the producer’s normale bottling and that there’s a Riserva that I’ve yet to taste. Also, something to look forward to in 2011, is a V.I.P. Table ’89 Barolo retrospective.

1989 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia - The nose showed dried red fruits, tar, mushroom broth, a bit of black strap molasses and a hint of barnyard. It also showed a gorgeous structure on the palate that gives the impression that this wine will last for the ages. Still a little tight with a tannic grip, but nonetheless giving with dark red fruit and a mineral core. The finish was long and fine, showing sour cranberry. (98 Points)

Trophy Wine of The Year
(Pulling no punches and the sky’s the limit on cost and rarity)

There was no competition for my top wine of the year. Quintarelli is a master and this bottle was truly magical. The best part about it was that I served this wine blind to a group that had no idea of the price or prestige that the producers name carried. It was thrilling and a bottle that any lover of Italian wine should taste before they die.

1995 Giuseppe Quintarelli Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva - The 1995 Giuseppe Quintarelli Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva was a dark mahogany color with rich and wild aromas rising from the glass. I found it difficult to take that first sip because the aromatics were so seductive that I simply didn’t want to take my nose from the glass. Black cherry sauce with saw dust, and then butterscotch and hazelnuts which then turned to spiced ginger cookies and plum reduction. So many layers could be pulled away to continue finding descriptors in this wine and I was only sad that we didn’t have the time to spend hours with it. On the palate I found a menagerie of red fruits as cherry, then raspberry and cranberry filled the palate. Vanilla and milk chocolate, butter cream and roasted nuts with spicy cedar. However, with all this concentration, the wine remains finessed and fresh on the palate. Its 16.5% alcohol is nearly invisible due to the impeccable balance of this wine. The finish lingered for 30 plus seconds with cherry dark chocolate. (99 Points)

Looking forward to more wine and friends in 2011.

Thank you all for making The V.I.P. Table a success!

Eric Guido