Good Wine Can Suck Too!

So I was drinking a wine tonight from a producer that has become a bit of a darling of some critics I respect. The time came to give the wine a score. I thought hard about it. The nose, the palate, the finish and the overall impression came into play. In the end-- 88 points!

For a moment I felt bad. WHY? Because we are all somehow trained to feel that even in an off vintage, we should give handicap points to good producers… God forbid we hurt their egos, right?

Drought

Let's think about this for a minute. If we have a great vintage, and the wine scores 96 points, then we all feel good about it. However, we then have just a good vintage, and the wine scores 96 points. Somehow, it's glossed over. Then we have a bad vintage, and the wine sinks to a whopping 94 points, and we are then told to buy the producer, not the vintage. But what if the vintage really did affect the wine? What if it's short, diluted, uninteresting or just simply bad?

This reminds me of 2003 Barolo. How can a wine that's simply "okay" to drink today still score 93 points? I'd rather drink anything at 87-90 points, than most 2003 Barolo.

Hail Damage

I guess that in the end, this is a rant. But it's a rant because I stand in a happy place while scratching my head. A place where I know the best producers aren't giving me free wine, so I don't have to worry about them taking away their free wine. I don't have to worry about people comp’ing me plane tickets, drivers, vacations, or a case or two that fell off the back of the truck and into my trunk.

In the end, I write what I think about wine. Good or bad, I don't care. I buy 50% of what I taste, and that which is given to me receives the same treatment. If the person who submits the sample doesn't like what I have to say--I don't care.

So, yes, good producers can make bad wine.

Now, in all fairness, this is not a bad wine, but it certainly isn’t a 91-93 point wine. If I found it in a bargain bin for $20, I’d buy it. I’m sure after this post I won’t ever see any free samples from them… Oh well.

2005 Podere Poggio Scalette Il Carbonaione Alta Valle della Greve IGT - The nose showed a mix of small tart berries with savory spice notes, herbal tones, animal musk and graphite. On the palate, it was silky and accessible with dark red fruits, mocha and spice. The balanced acidity kept things lively, yet this fell slightly short toward the close, finishing with tart red fruits that faded quickly.

Admittedly, my expectations were high, and so my judgment may be slightly obscured. With that said, the bouquet was amazing, but this vintage simply lacks any serious structure and staying power. At $20 this would have been a 90, but with the higher price tag, I can't buy into the hype. (88 points)

The Black Cat

This time of year is always rough, my work nearly triples and it always hurts my ability to post on the blog. At first, I thought it best to let it go and post a "please forgive my absence in this busy time" sort of post. However, the more a I thought about it, the more I realized that we are beyond that, and I believe my readers would enjoy knowing what i'm drinking in the little free time I have--even if it's not the most well thought out post to the blog.

And so, here it is and I hope you enjoy, because it's totally unadulterated and exactly what's on my mind as I pull wines from my cellar at a very busy time…

The Black Cat

For years I've wondered why I haven't seen any professional tasting notes on EMH Black Cat. Are they too small? Do they refuse to submit samples? I don't know. What I do know is that this tiny wine was one of my most prized discoveries from a trip I took to Napa a few years ago. Out of all the wineries that I visited, there were only three lists that I bought wines from, and this was one of them. Coming from a single acre vineyard in Calistoga, which makes for a great study through the vintages, since it's always from the same small parcel. Tonight I revisited the 2005, and it was drop--dead--gorgeous!

2005 EMH Cabernet Sauvignon Black Cat - The nose was refined yet intense with cherry cola, minty herbs, spice, rose-infused dark chocolate and hints of sweetened lavender. On the palate, it was plush and weighty but with great finesse and brisk acidity. Never overwhelming or overdone, instead perfectly balanced. Ripe black fruit, currant, cola and holiday spice danced on the palate and gave way to juicy cherry, which lasted through the long finish. This wine has remained one of my favorites from Black Cat and is in a great place right now. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Eccoci: Drinking in The Carbon Footprint

By: Eric Guido

I think by now we've all heard of the carbon footprint. Each and every one of us creates a quantifiable amount of harm to our atmosphere, or planet in general, every day of our lives. We all take, in some way shape or form, and it's through this constant abuse (multiplied by 7 billion people) that our planet is slowly declining into toxicity. It's difficult to see how a single person can make a difference against these staggering numbers. Yet, to do nothing is to simply be another cog in the machine that's polluting us all. It's a pretty grim thought, but the fact is that the idea of a zero carbon footprint is catching on. It's pretty simple really; if you can estimate how much a person or business takes from the earth--then you can estimate how much they can give back in exchange to make up for it.

So what prompted my tree hugging sermon today? Believe it or not, it was a winery: Eccociwine. By now, all of my readers know that I'm a big fan of natural, sustainable, organic and bio-dynamic wines. I'm certainly not someone who would shun any winery for not following these principles, but it is a noble cause--and in my opinion, it shows in the finished product. That's where Eccociwine comes in.

Eccociwine is located in the province of Girona, Spain, about two hours north of Barcelona, at the foot of an inactive volcano and surrounded by a natural park preserve. It's a winery that is built on the principle of restoring an equilibrium with nature while creating wines of inspiring quality and focus. Wines that reflect the land, from soil that has never been treated with chemicals or subjected to industrial abuse. Call it virgin terroir, if you will. From what I've tasted, and considering that the vines were only planted in 2004, there will be great things coming from Eccociwine in the years to come.

At Eccociwine, the grape varieties are French, not Spanish. This was a decision made after completing an analysis of the soils and climate. What's more, the vineyards are planted facing north, in an attempt counteract the change in climate resulting from global warming, as well as the naturally high temperatures in Spain during the summer months. With a mixture of vineyards, some with volcanic and others, alluvial soils, plus a Mediterranean climate with continental influences, the wines at Eccoci are unique, intense, juicy and unquestionably balanced with just enough oak influence to excite the senses.

They are all fruity, yet structured with a soil and mineral core. The tinto premium is sexy and forward, looking for a party. While the Super Premium is dark, mysterious and beautifully backward, it is enjoyable now, but demanding of some time in the cellar to show off its true potential. And as for the Estate White, it’s class in a glass—floral, spicy, soft, yet tense and balanced. This is a winery to watch.

On to the Tasting Notes:

2011 Eccociwine Estate White - The nose showed lemon and lime with sweet white floral tones, spice and moist minerals. It was fresh with weighty textures on the palate and flavors of sweet apple, spice and inner floral notes which lasted into the refreshing finish. (90 points)

2008 Eccociwine Empordà Red Wine Premium Girona - The nose was lush with ripe black cherry, hints of dark wood, black earth, herbs and dark chocolate. It splashed onto the palate with sweet blackberry, juicy yet medium-bodied, showing citrus, apple and mineral tones. This was remarkably fresh and clean throughout while remaining concentrated and intense with a beautiful "drink me" personality. The mouthwatering finish begged me to take another sip. Well done. (91 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Eccociwine Empordà Eccomi Tinto Super Premium Girona - The nose showed intense, savory cherry, a dusting of sweet spice and cocoa with grounding notes of dark earth and minerals. On the palate, it entered firm, yet opened beautifully with masses of concentrated red and black fruits enveloping the senses along with dark chocolate, a note of cherry syrup and black licorice, which lasted throughout the long, dark finish. This was an intense wine, with a refined structure that promises future development. It can easily be enjoyed now but will likely benefit from another year or two in the cellar. (94 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!