1989: Barolo Retrospective

By Eric Guido

The "Epic" '89 Cascina Francia
With no Monfortino in '89,
this wine turned out to be a
masterpiece.

2004 was the year that I really got into wine, and from that moment forward it has been a continuous learning experience on a topic that is constantly evolving. In that time, there are specific “truths” that I’ve come understand. One is that price doesn’t always dictate quality. Another is that there will always be another “greatest vintage ever,” according to somebody, only a few years down the road. And then there’s 1989 Barolo; and the truth is that it’s the best, classic vintage of Barolo in the last 35 years.

Let’s call a spade a spade. I understand that farming practices have improved, that wineries work cleaner and more efficient, and that global warming has given producers more good vintages to work with. But here's another truth; because of all of these changes and improvements, the Barolo being made today will never become the wines of yesterday. Granted, they might become something totally different, which in retrospect may be considered better. But we won't see another 1974, '78 or '89. The fact is that all the technology today is simply trying to recreate what a great vintage provided us in years like 1989.

We're talking about a time when there were great vintages once a decade, and it was the result of what Mother Nature gave them. Green harvesting wasn't regularly practiced in 1989; instead a wet, cool spring resulted in irregular flowering. What's more, severe hail in June left its mark on many vineyards. The summer was warm, but not hot, and temperatures dropped near the end of the growing season with wide fluctuations between day and night. The result was a late harvest with perfectly ripe grapes.

Setting up our blind tasting at i Truli.  An amazing tasting
complimented by a Piedmonte inspired menu.

When I think back to the first time I tasted an '89 Barolo, even at an early point in my journey to understand wine, the quality struck me. All of the other vintages I had tasted, '95 through 2000, seemed to pale in comparison. They were rich in fruit and powerful, yet bright and focused with a structure that I can best describe as "noble". They weren't ready to drink yet, which at the time (2006) intrigued me greatly. However, even though the structure of these wines dominated, you could still sense the tension of fruit that was just waiting to bloom. So here we are, eight years later, and these wines are even closer to peaking, but not quite there yet. Enjoyable? Absolutely. Yet, you can still sense that there's something more waiting down the road, and I won't be surprised if we are still enjoying the best of them 40 years from now. God, I love '89 Barolo.

These 25-year old corks look fantastic, unfortunately
a few them work cork-taint time bombs.

The following notes are from a recent tasting, which included 14 bottles of Barolo and 2 of Barbaresco. One issue I witnessed was a problem with cork taint (3 out of 16 bottles), which is another issue on the decline these days. Also, out of all of these wines, one was obviously heat damaged, a concern when trying to procure these wines on the market today. My advice, if you have the means, is to buy '89 Barolo, because the prices will only go up as the wines continue to peak. However, if you are a buyer, make sure you are getting them from a reliable source. Many of these wines will cost a pretty penny (my Wine of The Night is retailing at $595), but that doesn't mean you can't find deals if you look hard enough. '89 Produttori Ovello is a perfect example.

On to the notes:

Flight #1 was something of a let-down, yet in no way the fault of the vintage. The unfortunate reality of older wine is the possibility of it being damaged from mistreatment or issues with cork. Thankfully corks have improved drastically in the last decade. However, there was a silver lining in the form of a Produttori Barbaresco that showed beautifully. What would a Barolo tasting be without a Barbaresco inserted as a ringer, which pans out to be a winner?

1989 Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Ovello – What a pretty and feminine wine that may not have shown as well next to a larger-scaled Barolo or Barbaresco, yet on it’s own was magical. The nose was still youthful, showing dusty red fruits with minerals and rose petals. On the palate, it showed silky textures interlaced with veins of structure and acidity. Bright cherry was joined by notes of earth and inner floral tones, which lasted into a long, staying finish. The Ovello was elegant and finessed, showing the undeniable qualities of Produttori yet again. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

1989 Roagna Barbaresco Riserva – Sadly, the ’89 Roagna Barbaresco Riserva was slightly corked, and what a shame that was, because what I did find in the glass tempted my curiosity. Dried red fruits pushed forward on the nose with notes of soil, gravel and old parchment. On the palate, it was tart with red berry and herbal notes, yet turned muddled. Dried red berries lingered on the finish with a zing of acidity. (N/A) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

1989 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo – The nose was dark, showing roasted meat, mushroom, moist leaves and beef stock. On the palate, it was still youthful yet meaty, with red fruits and earth tones. The finish was long, yet the wines acidity seemed to dry out the wine, leaving only traces of citrus peel and minerals. (87 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

1989 Cavallotto Barolo Vigna San Giuseppe Riserva – You could sense the greatness in this wine, yet it was apparently mistreated at some point in its life. The nose was earth personified with porcini mushroom, soil, mineral, herbal tones and a hint of French onion soup. On the palate, it showed tart red fruits and citrus peel. The finish was dank and muddled with notes of earth and stewed fruit. (N/A) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Flight #2 really took things up a notch and relieved any fears that flight #1 may have stirred. Monforte d’Alba was the theme of the flight, and these wines came through in spades. What really impressed me was how impossibly young they all seemed.

1989 Aldo Conterno Barolo Cicala – The nose was classic, showing dusty red fruits, dried flowers, sandy soil, minerals and beef broth. It showed great depth on the palate, with tart red berries saturating the senses in waves of velvety texture, followed by notes of herbal tea and minerals. The finish was staying and seemed to wrap the palate in warm, radiant fruit. Other tasters seemed to prefer the Colonnello, but for me it was the Cicala that showed best. (94 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

1989 Elio Grasso Barolo Gavarini – The nose was earthy and complex with dark red fruit, mushrooms, dried flowers, hints of citrus rind and dusty, dried cranberries. On the palate, it was still young and structured with tart red fruit, inner floral tones and hints of citrus. The medium-long finish lent a sweet and sour effect as red berry and citrus intermingled. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

1989 Aldo Conterno Barolo Colonnello – The nose was wonderfully expressive with dark red fruits, dried flowers, spices and beef stock. On the palate, it was smaller-scaled, yet silky smooth and juicy with round red fruits and herbal tones. The finish turned darker and lingered. Other tasters found this to be much more interesting than I did. It’s a beautiful wine that’s drinking well now, but it was lack of depth on the palate that soured my view. (92 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

1989 Rocche dei Manzoni Barolo Riserva – The nose was modern and forward, showing ripe black cherry with balsamic tones, spice, licorice and a whiff of vanilla oak. On the palate, it was surprisingly clean, focused and finessed with cherry, sweet spice, dark chocolate and earth tones. The finish was soft and juicy with dried red berry notes lingering long. (88 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Flight #3 was marked by the biggest disappointment of the evening, a completely corked Brovia Rocche and Bruno Giacosa Villero. Luckily, the two wines that did show were incredible! So began the battle of the two ’89 Vietti…

1989 Brovia Barolo Rocche – Corked

1989 Vietti Barolo Rocche – The ’89 Vietti Rocche was stunning. The nose was forward, yet elegant and finessed, showing beautiful floral tones, cherry, potpourri, roses, balsamic hints and spice. On the palate, it was still youthful and structured; yet even still, the most focused red fruit ran deep, enveloping the senses and contrasted by inner floral notes. The finishes lingered on and on with hints of structure tugging at the senses while crystalline red fruit slowly faded away. This wine was seamless. (96 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

1989 Vietti Barolo Villero Riserva – The nose was bright and explosive with sweet red fruits, spice, rose petal, potpourri and hints of menthol. On the palate, it was round with velvety red fruits, yet persistent and focused, as sweet spice and hints of citrus danced across the senses. It finished focused and clean with dried red berries and hints of spice, which lingered on and on. It was gorgeous. (95 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

1989 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Villero – Corked

Just when we thought things couldn’t get any better, along came Flight #4. Out of the 16 bottles we originally assembled, what wasn’t revealed to the tasters was that a 1989 Giacomo Conterno Cascina Frania had been entered into the tasting. It was great listening to the chatter around the table as everyone put their nose to the glass.

1989 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia – The nose was deep, rooted in the earth with iron and minerals, yet dark and imposing as rich black cherry, licorice and dried roses gave contrast to rock dust and black soil tones. You could sense that as much as this wine was willing to give, there was still so much more being held in reserve. On the palate, balsamic notes gave way to dark fruit and inner floral perfumes, yet the wine’s muscle and girth seemed to be working hard (yet in a futile manner) to try and keep it all concealed. The finish was filled with strawberry, tar and tobacco notes in a long, youthful expression. This is a wine that anyone who considers themselves a fan of Barolo must taste at one point in their lives. (97 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

1989 Cascina Bruni Barolo Vigna Batistot – The nose was beautiful and quite unique, with spicy, candied tones leading to Bing cherry, celery seed and candle wax. On the palate, it showed velvety textures with dark red fruit and a hint of bitters. The finish was staying with red berry and licorice lingering on the palate. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

1989 Prunotto Barolo Cannubi – The nose was dark, and at first reticent; yet as it opened in the glass, a bouquet of red berry, floral perfumes, herbs, minerals and a hint of spice came forward. On the palate, focused red fruits gave way to earth, minerals and stone with a still lively structure. The finish was clean and refreshing with a note of dried cherries. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

1989 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate Riserva – The nose showed red fruit, which was a bit stewy, with mushroom, herbs, tar and parchment. On the palate, dried red berries, spice and fall leaves coated the senses, yet the sense that this wine was holding back edged on my thoughts. The finish showed notes of red fruit and old cedar with a drying structure, which cut it short. (92 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!


Related Links: 
Words from fellow wine writers and bloggers who attended this tasting. The following links are a great way to get an in-depth understanding of these wines and the vintages.
Greg dal Piaz of Snooth: PIEDMONT’S GREATEST VINTAGE?
Ken Vastola of "The Fine Wine Geek": 1989 Barolo and Barbaresco

There's No Instant Gratification in Barolo...

But some things are worth waiting for.

By: Eric Guido

Patience is something that has been lost in the world of wine. I remember reading that the majority of wine purchases are consumed within 20 minutes of being purchased. It's a scary thought, yet I remember those days in my life. However, what I also remember was that I received significantly less satisfaction from wine back then. In fact, it wasn't until I tasted wines that had been cared for with time, temperature and proper decanting that I truly caught the wine bug. Before that time, I found myself disappointed often and blaming my own palate for not being sophisticated enough to enjoy wine.

Don't get me wrong; most wine is created with near-term drinking in mind, but those tend to not be the wines that inspire me. What truly inspires me is what a wine can become and the stages it goes through to get there. A perfectly-aged wine is where the bouquet has become like a rose, unfurling slowly in the glass, and with each petal comes another addition that slowly builds into a crescendo of aromas. On the palate, the tannins have resolved, allowing the fruit to shine through, and the youthful wood has somehow transformed into dark leathery, earthy and soil tones. I've often found a perfectly-aged bottle to remind me of childhood, picking ripe cherries or strawberries, with the smells of soil and stems compounding the vibrant dark fruit.

Barolo is an excellent example of one such wine; there is no instant gratification with Barolo. It's a wine that can be as hard as nails, with biting acidity and drying tannins for the first decade of its life. Yet, something lurks beneath it all. You can sense it, and sometimes you can almost smell or taste it, yet it eludes you. With 15 to 20 years you begin to see its qualities; sometimes they are still masked by the wine's structure, but many bottles will drink well at this time. From there, it's all about timing and tasting; it's when the fun really begins, and all that time you spent aging and caring for your bottles pays off.

Many people have asked me, "why do you cellar wines?" This is the reason why, to have bottles like these in your cellar. Perfectly stored, waiting just for that right moment. These are bottles that were bought in a different time and evoke nostalgic memories of those times, with prices that sometimes boggle your mind; like a tattered $25 price label on a bottle that now fetches $350.

I was recently fortunate enough to taste through a number of beautifully aged wines. They were gorgeous, and if you're willing to pay the price, then you'll be in for a real treat.

On to the Wines:

1974 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo – This showed a deep red color in the glass with an initial note of green peas giving way cherry, tobacco, herbs and soil-laden minerals. On the palate, it started smooth, giving way to acidity yet remaining in balance with notes of tart, dried cherry and minerals. The finish faded slightly with remnants of dried fruit and floral tones. This wine will not improve, but it is beautiful today, all the same. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

1985 Prunotto Barolo Bussia – The nose showed rich cherry tobacco, hints of green stems, dusty spice and minerals. On the palate, it was deep and rich with dried, dark cherry, and minerals laced with vibrant acidity, keeping it fresh and youthful. The finish was long with palate-saturating tones of dried red fruits. (91 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

1959 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo – An impossibly youthful, deep ruby red color, leading to a drop-dead gorgeous bouquet of dried cherry, dusty dried floral notes, plum, soil tones, cinnamon and a hint of undergrowth. On the palate, it was energetic and youthful with brisk acidity paving the way to rich dark-red fruits, tobacco and tar with inner floral tones that played out with seductively balanced and soothing textures. The finish stayed true to cherry and soil tones with a hint of mineral. This wine was beautiful from first pour and only gained complexities in the glass. What a way to start a Barolo tasting. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

1978 Cappellano Barolo – What a treat this wine was as it sat in the glass and gained momentum throughout the evening. Starting fresh and lively, it turned darker and mysterious with time in the glass. The nose showed potpourri, tobacco, and hints of roses, licorice and dried strawberry—classic. On the palate, it was elegant and structured with cherry, metallic minerals and smoked meats. The finish was unrelenting, as dried cherry, tobacco and herbs seemed to linger infinitely from sip to sip. (94 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

1990 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino – This wine was truly born of the earth, showing a classic, dark Serralunga profile. The nose was brooding with floral potpourri, balsamic notes, mint, macerated cherry, and rocky minerals, yet fresh and lifting throughout the entire experience. On the palate, it was perfectly balanced, showing earth-infused, dark red fruits and rocky minerals with rich yet fresh textures that simply wouldn’t relent. A single glass of the 1990 Monfortino is just not enough, as this wine says “drink me, “ while still asking for a number of years forgotten in the cellar. The finish lingered with tannic hints adding complexity to its dark earth and mineral-soil tones mixed with dried red fruit. (96 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

I remember my Grandmother’s “Sunday Sauce”

Those childhood memories and the things they do to us. They capture us in the moment. Leave us longing for what we once had. The smell of your father’s tobacco or the song your mother sang you to sleep. For me, and I’m sure, for many who had the fortune of growing up with an Italian influence, I fondly remember my grandmother’s Sunday sauce. It wasn’t something you’d ever expect at a restaurant. It was probably not perfectly seasoned… but it was magical. It was warmth and the safe feeling of having your entire family around you, waiting in anticipation of the amazing meal that your grandma had spent hours preparing.

Is it any wonder why you’re taught about nostalgia in culinary school? It’s because it is the key to our hearts and minds.

Last week, I found myself at a dinner with fellow writers and wine enthusiasts, at a restaurant named Cesca on the upper west side. A cozy and inviting place with an old-world feel, yet a perfectly relaxed atmosphere. Firstly, I was there for the wines, and they were great. However, what caught my attention in the midst of it all, and stopped me dead in my tracks, was when the server brought me their Sunday sauce. Understand, I hardly order off the menu and usually ask the staff to bring me whatever the kitchen feels like making me (a great way to try new things and let chefs get creative). So as I looked down at the plate in front of me and the aromas began to waft up to my senses, I was taken aback.

It was one of those moments where it seemed like the world was moving forward without you. I sat there, no longer sipping wine or taking notes... I sat there with the sudden realization that they truly made me a Sunday sauce, in the same style that I had enjoyed every Sunday of my childhood life. What’s more, this was actually on their menu under the exact name of “Sunday Sauce” and I simply didn’t make the connection until that moment.

What did it taste like? Exactly what it should have. A red tomato sauce that had been slow cooked with meatballs, sausage and pork. Perfect acidity and the same texture I remember. I enjoyed myself so much that I failed to write a single note, simply because it was that good. Such a simple thing and yet I haven’t experienced it in all the years I’ve been working in restaurants or wining and dining.

And so, before I publish a single note on the wine from that night, I must say. Cesca is a restaurant that deserves some attention. I can assure you, it will get another visit from me in the near future. And I’m happy to recommend it to all of you, if for no other reason, than to taste that Sunday Sauce. Well done.

After all of that, you might think that the wine was an after thought, but I assure you, it was amazing. Snooth editor and community manager, Greg dal Piaz, brought a selection of rarities and well aged beauties, from old school California cab to 1978 Barolo. Put the wines with the food and add the great company and you have an evening that I will not soon forget.

On to the notes:

2005 Vare Ribolla Gialla - USA, California, Napa Valley (7/12/2010)
Talk about an interesting wine as the nose hits you with almond, pistachio and olives yet somehow… ripe. What was expected to be a semi-sweet palate turned out to be remarkably dry with roasted nuts, minerals and grassy hint. The finish was a bit simple but in all honesty, this bottle is worth it for the bouquet alone. (89 pts.)

2008 Di Filippo Montefalco Grechetto Colli Martani - Italy, Umbria, Montefalco (7/12/2010)
On the nose I found lemon sabayon with hazelnuts and a bit of sea air. The palate was rich with canned peaches, vanilla and a hint of lime with a nice fresh finish. (88 pts.)

1984 Daniel Estate Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley (7/12/2010)
Excellent, old school, Napa cabernet as your senses are assaulted with dusty, dark red fruit, eucalyptus, stems, and balsamic vinegar. On the palate, I found a rush of menthol and strawberry fruit. It was immensely fresh and lush for a wine of over 20 years old. The finish keeps a hint of menthol and carries red fruit. (89 pts.)

1990 San Giusto a Rentennano Percarlo Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (7/12/2010)
The nose showed red fruit with sauté mushroom and a bit of olive. On the palate, I found ripe dark cherry, spice, old cedar and leather strap mixed a dusty sweetness. The impeccable balance on the palate really makes this a showstopper of a wine. I enjoyed it immensely and was only disappointed that there wasn’t more in the bottle on my second pass (94 pts.)

1978 Prunotto Barolo Cannubi - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (7/12/2010)
The nose showed, crushed fall leaves, parchment paper and soft strawberry fruit. The palate showed fresh, vibrant cranberry fruit with bitters and a hint of old wood yet so lush and velvety. The finish carried the sour red fruit into a soft red fade that kept me filling my glass. (86 pts.)

2005 Maculan Torcolato - Italy, Veneto, Breganze (7/12/2010)
A wow of a desert wine as aromas of apricot, rhubarb and peach nectar waft up through your senses. The palate is lush yet fresh, with ripe peach and mango followed by a sour apple wash of acidity as it goes down into a mellow, fresh fruit finish. I thoroughly enjoyed this bottle. (91 pts.)

Wait, wait wait, one last thing that's worth the extra read... this was a blogger dinner after all and I met with a number of fascinating people whose work has really impressed me. Foodies and wine lovers alike will all enjoy the following links.

Food, Wine and the business is perfectly mixed in this blog by Susannah Gold. Susannah's experience in the industry and time abroad lends to some amazing insights on wine and food at avvinare. It's also a treat to listen to her speak Italian, if you're ever face to face.

This was my second time meeting Diane Letulle and just like the first, she’s a real treat to talk with. Diane’s an accomplished wine educator and blogger as well as the writer of The Manhattan Wine Examiner. You can also find her blog at Wine Lover's Journal.

Lastly, Sasha Smith, the writer of Spin the bottle NY, which I’ve found myself reading quite often lately. Sasha’s blog is a breath of fresh air with a diverse content that’s set off by her witty yet highly informative writing style.