Monday, April 30, 2012

New found love for Vino Nobile

For many years, I shunned Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, and it was a mistake. When thinking back, it was just one bottle that did it; one of those nights when you pull that $50 bottle that you think will impress, but instead it falls flat on its face. Since then, I have forgiven myself. It happened during my formative years of exploration into Italian wine, and it was just one bottle. I also consider myself lucky to have found a new love for Vino Nobile; because frankly, it’s a beautiful and unique expression of Tuscan Sangiovese that every wine lover should experience.

This brings me to Poderi Boscarelli. Every appellation has its standouts, and for me, Boscarelli has taken the stage in Vino Nobile. Vino Nobile isn’t just another Sangiovese from Tuscany. The blending rules are less strict, (requiring only 70% Sangiovese), yet producers like Boscarelli, who choose to stick to blends that are heavy on or even 100% Sangiovese, manage to turn out wines with a spiced berry character that sets them apart. In the past, I’ve found many Vino Nobile difficult to understand in their youth; yet with Boscarelli, you can smell and taste the potential in the glass.

The Boscarelli family attributes this to terroir and keeping the operation small, which sings loud and clear in their single vineyard Vigna del Nocio, a 100% Sangiovese made only in the finest vintages. The Vino Nobile Riserva is another enjoyable wine. Having spent some time in French oak, which integrates perfectly, and with a dallop of Merlot, it is truly set apart from the rest. Yet you need not spend up to the top-shelf to taste what this producer is capable of, as all of the wines I’ve recently tasted deserve your attention.

On to the wines:

2008 Boscarelli Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano – The nose showed bright red fruits and floral stems. On the palate, I found wild berries and a clean, mouthwatering expression of Sangiovese. The finish was medium in length yet rich in fruit and left me with a very satisfied experience. (89 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2007 Boscarelli Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano Nocio Dei Boscarelli – The nose was intense with red fruits and spice. Earthy floral notes rounded it out and added plenty of depth. On the palate, it was expansive and showed a finessed and elegant inner floral perfume with tight red berry fruits. The finish was long and showed a fine tannic structure. This is a wine that I plan to bury in my own cellar. (92 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2007 Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva – The nose was ripe, yet finessed, showing red berries, sweet spice, and cigar box. On the palate, it was intense and smooth with dark red fruits and wood tones. The finish showed a fine structure and begged for time in the cellar. (92 points) Find it on Wine-Searhcer!

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