2010 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva: Worth Waiting For?

The market has been waiting for the 2010 Brunello Riservas, with hopes that critics will go even further beyond the lofty scores of the regular ’10 Brunellos. However, I for one don’t believe they’ll get their wish.

What do we love about 2010 Brunello? I really do hope that you have chosen to open one of two bottles buy now, because what 2010 has is something that I’ve never seen in such a classic vintage before…they’re drinkable. Young? YES. However, the 2010 Normale Brunellos have a brilliance and purity of fruit that is so intense, while also remaining refined, that it nearly envelopes the tannins. That’s the magic of 2010. Throughout 2015, the 2010s underwent a metamorphosis in the bottle. Frankly, it’s difficult to read many of the critics’ notes from early last year and then compare them to what we taste today—because the wines have gotten even better. I’m completely serious.

So what does that mean for the average 2010 Brunello Riserva? It means that the same brilliant fruit that I love about the vintage spent another year in oak—absorbing tannin and concentrating further. In my opinion, these wines didn’t require anything more than they already had. The extra year in oak unfortunately dominated much of the purity and drinkability that I found in most 2010s.

There are exceptions, of course. There are a small number of wines that come across as utterly classic, beautiful versions of Brunello Riserva, which deserve a place in our cellars. Great examples are Il Poggione, Stella di Campalto and Tenuta Buon Tempo, which was new producer for me, yet one of the top Riservas of the event. However, don’t expect to drink the majority of these wines for at least a decade, if not longer.

I’m really looking forward to tasting more of the Riservas, and I’m sure that some critics will disagree with my opinions; but from what’s I’ve tasted so far, the best example of 2010 Brunello Riserva are amazing, while the rest fall below their Brunello Normale counterparts.

On to the tasting notes:

2010 Il Poggione (Proprietá Franceschi) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli – The nose was dark and intense with ripe red fruits and dark floral tones offset by savory seared meat, smoke and minerals. On the palate, I found tart black cherry and herbs over a firm layer of acidity and tannin, which gave way to a long and structured finish full of inner floral tones and bitter cherry. This wine is classic to the core and one of my favorite ’10 Riservas tasted to date. Bury it in the cellar and good things will come. (96 points)

2010 Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano – The nose was deep, rich and intense with black cherry, brown spice, balsamic tones and sweet herbs. On the palate, it was as smooth as silk with the weight of velvet, showing rich raspberry, cedar, herbs and classic tannins. The finish was long on red fruit, along with notes of leather and crushed stone. This is so dark and brooding yet seduces the senses on its sheer, balanced mass. (96 points)

2010 Caprili Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose was dark and viral, showing dried cherry, savory spice, moist earth and a hint of grapefruit. On the palate, it was all at once silky, yet intense with tart, acid-driven red fruits, exotic spice citrus and floral tones. Tart cherry, inner floral tones and spiced citrus all came together on the finish displaying the wild side of Sangiovese. It’s an exotic and truly gorgeous wine. (94 points)

2010 Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – Dark and brooding yet full of potential, the 2010 Riserva opened up with a display of ripe strawberry, black cherry, and plum, along with floral perfumes and a hint of pepper. On the palate, it was dense, monolithic and hard to judge, yet there was a core of dark red fruit which seemed determined to one day explode. It finished on dried berries, leather and fine tannin. This is in need of time in the cellar, yet it should one day emerge as something truly special. (94 points)

2010 Tenuta Buon Tempo Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose was intense and layered, leading with dried earth and undergrowth, yet quickly switching gears to reveal ripe strawberry, cherry and fresh herbal tones. On the palate, silky textures gave way to minerals and fine tannin, as dark red fruits, spice and hints of leather permeated the senses. The finish was tight, youthfully so, yet concentrated, refined—classic. This is one of my favorite 2010 Riservas to date. (94 points)

2010 Podere Le Ripi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Lupi e Sirene – The Le Ripi was one of the more interesting and unique Brunello presented this year. Here I found a bouquet of dark earth and minerals up front, which opened to reveal plum, tart cherry, menthol and hints of herbs. On the palate, it was silky with a fine acid-tannin balance, dark cherry, and deep minerality. The finish was long with an almost salty display of bitters, cherry, minerals and herbs. I had to ask myself if I really liked this, yet the answer ended up being a resounding YES—and having watched it evolve in the glass, I believe the best is yet to come. (93 points)

2010 Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio All’Oro – The nose was dark and brooding, showing medicinal cherry, menthol and dark chocolate. On the palate, weighty textures flowed across the senses like heavy silk along with bitter black cherry and fine grained tannins. The long finish showed dark chocolate, black cherry, plum and herbal notes. The oak is quite present in this wine today, but it’s easy to see where it’s going and it reminds me quite a bit of the ’99 tasted earlier this year. (92 points)

2010 Azienda Palazzo Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – On the nose, I found a powerful display of dark red fruits, earth and forest floor. Silky textures contrasted by grippy tannin saturated the senses with intense dark fruits and spice on the palate. It finished long, as tannin coated the senses, along with dried red fruits, leather and hints of herbs. (92 points)

2010 Val di Suga (Angelini) Brunello di Montalcino Poggio al granchio – The nose was dark, perfumed and refined with classic dark red fruits, earth and hints of leather. On the palate, silky textures were firmed up by fine tannin, giving way to bitter dark fruits, earth and inner floral tones. The finish was structured with medium length, showing dried berries and herbs. (92 points)

2010 Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose was restrained, showing dark red fruits and floral perfumes. On the palate, I found soft textures followed by dark bitter cherry and tannin which swept across the senses and firmly took hold. It finished on inner floral tones and dried cherry. It was very hard to read in this youthful state, but my fear is that some of the brilliance of 2010 fruit may have been lost in this wine’s élevage. (91 points)

2010 Il Palazzone Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose displayed a dark, rich character with black cherry out front followed by chalky minerality. On the palate, it was soft with ripe red fruits, cedar and hints of spice, and it finished with dark inner floral tones. This is one of the softer and easier-to-like examples of 2010 Brunello that I’ve tasted, and it makes for a good option for early drinking. (91 points)

2010 Palazzina Le Macioche Brunello di Montalcino Le Macioche – The nose showed tart red fruits, plum, undergrowth and herbal tones. On the palate, silky textures were offset by brisk acidity with gripping tannin, tart red fruit and stems. The finish was medium-long with notes of dried red fruits. (90 points)

2010 Pian Delle Vigne (Antinori) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Ferrovia – The nose was dark and brooding with minerals and spice up front, followed by violet floral tones and crushed raspberry fruit. On the palate I found silky textures, which were quickly firmed up by the wine’s tannic structure, showing small red and blackberry fruit, spice and cedar. The finish was tight and restrained, with remnants of dried cherry and inner florals. I wanted to like this wine more, but I have to wonder if the fruit will outlast its imposing structure. (90 points)

2010 Piccini Brunello di Montalcino Villa Al Cortile Riserva – The nose was restrained and slightly reductive, showing notes of ripe cherry and rubber, with hints of sweet florals and herbs. On the palate, light red fruits with a bump of brisk acidity made themselves known, leading into a medium-long finish defined by mouth-coating tannins. (89 points)

2010 Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose was restrained, giving little more than dried berries, hints of spice and minerals. On the palate, I found ripe red fruits and inner floral tones on a feminine frame. It finished reserve with notes of strawberry and herbs. Frankly, I was a little confused here, as I would have thought this to be a Rosso or Brunello from a much cooler vintage. (89 points)

Article and Tasting Notes by: Eric Guido

Originally published at The Cellar Table

The Comeback Vintage: 2012 Brunello di Montalcino

Welcome back to Benvenuto Brunello

By: Eric Guido (Originally published at The Cellar Table Blog)

The first time I heard a reference to the 2012 vintage was while tasting the 2010 Brunellos at Benvenuto over two years ago. The problem was that the 2010’s were so promising upon release, that as often as we were told that the 2012 Rossos showed the tremendous potential of the vintage ahead, we simply couldn’t get past the excitement of the ‘10s. After all, this was the vintage that drew a line in the sand, and brought consumers back to Brunello after years of lackluster vintages.

Then came 2011, where the ripeness of fruit could literally be felt as it saturated the senses, and, in my case, actually made my teeth ache. We were told that this wasn’t such a bad thing and that the wines would be great for near-term consumption. Unfortunately, with the exception of only a small number of producers, 2011 remains a vintage in which I found very little to get excited about.

However, we can put that all aside, because now that the 2012 vintage is hitting our shores, Brunello lovers have something to be excited about. Before I say anything else, let’s address the number one question on everyone’s mind: are these as good as the 2010’s? Unfortunately, that’s a difficult question to answer, because there is some variability that’s starting to become much more apparent throughout the region. The fact is that the terroir of Montalcino has become very important, and many consumers (and winemakers) aren’t really ready to talk about it.

The north-hill soils of Le Chiuse,
mixing clay, sand and rock.

You can see a trend in Montalcino, and that’s the release of single vineyard or parcel selected bottles that come either from the more northern vineyards or from the higher elevations of southern vineyards. The reason for this is the promise that these locations perform better in warmer vintages, and let’s be honest, 2012 was a warm vintage. Many people are avoiding that fact, as the term “warm vintage” has become synonymous with overripe. However, that is a broad generalization for a region that spans 24,000 hectares (that’s 59,000 acres), with altitudes ranging between 120 - 650 meters above sea level.

Just to put things in perspective, when many producers were asked about 2012, a large percentage compared the vintage to 2011 from the perspective of warmth and the length of the growth cycle. However, there was one very big difference. Where 2011 saw drastic spikes of heat throughout the season, 2012 remained consistently warm, which allowed the vines to adapt. 2012 was also very dry from winter through August, with just enough precipitation in the early fall to aid in maturation, yet the extended drought still resulted in a 14% smaller harvest than 2011.

The barrel aging room of Poggio di Sotto
in Castelnuovo dell’Abate

So now that the numbers are out of the way, let’s talk about the wines. The 2012’s, in general, are mid-weight wines with gorgeous aromatics and intensely concentrated fruit on the palate that is offset by fresh acidity. In most cases the tannins are unexpectedly refined, especially considering the vintage conditions, and left me with a classic expression on the finish. At their best, they are enjoyable now on their freshness, (which isn’t something you’d expect from a ripe vintage, but that 2012 has in spades) yet also structured enough to go strong in the cellar for ten to fifteen years--and possibly beyond.

The vineyards of Il Poggione, south of
Sant'Angelo in Colle

The pitfalls of the vintage lay in the lower elevations and areas that experience a more Mediterranean climate. Here we need to pick and choose. Though there are a number of standouts, such as the ever-reliable Il Poggione and Uccelliera, other producers turned out a set of wines that are highly enjoyable and easily gulpable, which ultimately is not what the average Brunello buyer is looking for.

When all is said and done, 2012 is the vintage we’ve been waiting for. These wines will not take twenty years to come around, yet are serious contenders for mid-term cellaring. They will be enjoyable early because of their aromatics and youthful appeal, but will also go the long haul in the cellar. In the end, it’s a highly enjoyable vintage and a perfect comeback following the 2011’s.

On To The Tasting Notes:

The sun rising over Montalcinos northeast

Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino 2012 - Upon first pour, the 2012 Brunello di Montalcino is dark, imposing and monolithic; yet with time in the glass, an array of crushed cherry, sweet herbs, cedar, and moist earth tones come forward. On the palate, I'm finding velvety textures with a fresh core of vibrant acidity adding verve, as notes of tart berry, cherry, plum and exotic spice set upon the senses. The finish is long and structured with herbal dark red fruits lasting throughout. I can imagine that five years or more will do this wine a lot good, and I can’t wait to see where it goes from there. (95 points)

Tenuta Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino Vigna La Casa 2012 - The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna La Casa is intense and layered with fresh red berries up front, giving way to earth tones, savory herbs and minerals. On the palate, silky-broad textures coat the senses while tart red berries and zesty acidity provide lift. Hints of spice, leather and inner florals last on the finish, along with fine-grain tannin that promises years of development. (95 points)

Castello Romitorio in the northwest of Montalcino

Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino Filo di Seta 2012 - The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Filo di Seta is gorgeous, showing depths of black and red fruits, dark floral tones and notes of undergrowth. On the palate, I'm finding soft, velvety textures which are contrasted by zesty acid, minerals and tart red fruits, with notes of spice and cedar. It finishes long, structured and balanced with persistent red berry fruits and spices. What a difference this northwestern vineyard makes from the normale. This is a beautiful 2012 Brunello for the cellar. (94 points)

Altesino Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli 2012 - The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli is stunning with dark red fruits, plum, sweet florals, dark chocolate, and hints of undergrowth. Here I'm finding silky, deep textures which seem to coat all of the senses, giving way to dried red berries, earth, leather tones and fine tannin. It finishes structured, yet with sweet tannin and a coating of dark red fruit. (94 points)

Il Poggione (Proprietá Franceschi) Brunello di Montalcino 2012 - The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino lifts up with a spellbinding and perfumed bouquet, with notes of ripe strawberry, cranberry, dried spices and undergrowth that develop in the glass. On the palate, soft textures offset vibrant acidity and fine tannin, as inner florals, earth and berry tones soothed the senses. It finishes long on dried berries, hints of spice and young tannin, promising many years of development. This is simply a pleasure to taste, and it is deceptively enjoyable today--yet the best is yet to come. (94 points)

Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino 2012 - The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino from Castello ROmitorio is gorgeous, with a bouquet of black cherry, floral undergrowth, moist soil tones, and sweet spices wafting up from the glass, developing to show dusty dried flowers. On the palate it's silky with a medium-bodied frame, savory minerals and tart cherries. This is incredibly long on the finish with concentrated red fruits, a saline flourish and fine tannins. (93 points)

The aging cellar of Uccelliera and Voliero

Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino 2012 - The nose on the 2012 Brunello di Montalcino is classic, displaying crushed strawberry, dusty florals, earth, leather and hints of cinnamon spice. On the palate, silky textures host notes of tart red berry, exotic spice, minerals, energized by zesty acidity, and ending with a web of fine tannin. The finish is long and refined with a classic structure and persistent red fruits. The 2012 should have many, many years of development in store for us. (93 points)

Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino Prime Donne 2012 - The nose on the 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Prime Donne is deep and intense with luscious, ripe blackberry fruit tones backed by notes of sweet herbs and dusty florals. It has a an almost-juicy persona with vibrant yet silky textures showcasing black and red berries with savory mineral underpinnings. It finishes long and textural on sweet spice and cherry liquor. Yum. (93 points)

Capanna Brunello di Montalcino 2012 - The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino sports soaring dark red fruits and floral tones with hints of spice and damp earth. On the palate, I'm finding velvety textures with smooth tannins, crushed strawberry, plum and sweet inner floral tones. The finish is long, showing dark fruits and fine tannin that coats the senses. (93 points)

Castelgiocondo (Marchesi de' Frescobaldi) Brunello di Montalcino 2012 - The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino is dark with masses of sweet and spicy black cherry, chocolate and floral tones. Here I'm finding soft textures backed by intensely concentrated dark red fruits, spice and hints of mocha. Even through the richness in this glass, a wave vibrant acidity provides freshness, which lasts throughout the finish. This may not be my personal preference for Brunello, but it’s a solid performer for those looking for an extroverted style. (92 points)

Col di Lamo Brunello di Montalcino 2012 - The 2012 Col di Lamo Brunello di Montalcino shows perfumed red berry fruit and floral tones with hints of dusty spice and wax. On the palate, I'm finding silky, refined textures offset by saturating dark red fruits and fine tannin. Persistent red berries continue to resonate through the finish, nearly masking the refined tannin that coated the senses. (92 points)

Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino 2012 - The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino is dark and earthy with notes of crushed strawberry, exotic spices and hints of undergrowth. On the palate, I'm finding silky textures on a medium-bodied frame with tart, dark red fruits and lifting inner floral tones. Its fine tannins make themselves known throughout the finish, along with a lasting impression of concentrated wild berry fruit. (92 points)

Altesino Brunello di Montalcino 2012 - Here I find a lifted mix of red berry fruit, plum, and dark chocolate as the 2012 Brunello di Montalcino lifts from the glass. I displays silky textures made vibrant though zesty acidity with spicy red fruits and hints of leather. It finishes medium-long on dried strawberry and hints of herbs. Not too shabby. (92 points)

Vines thriving in Montalcinos
warm and dry southwest.

Talenti Brunello di Montalcino 2012 - The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino displays perfumed florals, dark cherry, and hints of moist soil. Its silky textures flood the senses over a medium-bodied frame with notes of tart cherry and hints of herbs, yet there is a pleasing richness here that surprises me. The finish displays medium length and fresh red fruits. (91 points)

Tenuta Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino 2012 - The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino displays a perfumed bouquet with notes of tart red berry and minerals. On the palate, I'm finding medium-bodied textures with dark red fruits ushered in by acid-driven silky textures. Hints of earth and spice linger on the finish. (91 points)

Voliero Brunello di Montalcino 2012 - The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino is remarkably pretty and refined, displaying tart red berries, spice and dusty earth. On the palate, an intensely fruited burst of energy levels out into silky, balanced textures with a core of crystalline minerality and spice. The finish is long, with light tannins coating the senses and notes of dried cherry lingering on. (91 points)

Tenuta Buon Tempo Brunello di Montalcino "P. 56" 2012 - The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino "P. 56" shows pretty red florals with dusty spice, minerals and hints of candied cherry. On the palate, soft textures offset persistent red berry fruits, dark earth and savory minerality. It finishes on bitter cherry, spice and hints of fine-grained tannins. (91 points)

Tenuta Buon Tempo Brunello di Montalcino 2012 - The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino lifts up with a mix of plum, cherry and cranberry, before giving way to woodsy earth tones and spice. Here I'm finding tart red fruits on a medium-bodied frame with a core of minerality which settles on the back palate. The finish is shorter than expected, seeming almost hollow, with hints of bitter red fruits lingering. (89 points)

Pian Delle Vigne (Antinori) Brunello di Montalcino 2012 - The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino is dark, imposing and intense with spicy candied red fruit and notes of plum. On the palate I'm finding weighty textures with sweet and sour cherry and spice, yet it's a bit one-dimensional. The finish is long with bitter dark red fruits. (88 points)

Give the gift of wine for Christmas

By Eric Guido

Great gift ideas from $15 - $80 (and everything inbetween)

The Holidays are here, and who wouldn’t like to get a bottle of great wine as a gift? For me, it’s pretty easy to pick out a bottle, as I spend my entire year tasting wines, thinking up recipes, cooking for guests and pairing wines with their meals. All of these things provide me with the feedback I need to know what my clients like. What’s more, this year has been full of new experiences for me. My work with Snooth has opened my eyes to new regions and wines I had never thought to try and I’m happy to be sharing many of them with you now.

When the time came to create this list, I wanted to make sure that I could touch on a gift for every kind of wine lover. You can find something here for the beginner, the adventurer, the enthusiast, the trophy hunter, the hedonist and the collector. I also wanted to focus on value and relative value. I love bargins on great wines, but I also love wines that drink great but cost less than what I’d expect to pay.

The fact is, wine lovers want wine as gifts, but giving wine as a gift can be a minefield full of letdowns. So I hope to take a lot of the guesswork out of it for you. Each of the wines below have a link to Wine-Searcher, which can help you find the bottle in time for the holidays.

Something Different, Something New (red wine)

Have you ever had a fine wine from Portugal besides Port? Most of us haven’t, until now. The wines of Portugal continue to improve, and some producers are well ahead of the pack. The 2007 Qunita do Mouro Tinto is a perfect example.

2007 Quinta do Mouro Tinto (average price $35) - The nose was dark and earthy with tart raspberry, savory herbs, coffee bean, leather and the slightest hint of spicy oak. It was seamless and juicy on the palate with tart fruit saturating the senses, showing intense wild berry, exotic spice, and cacao. As it came to a close, notes of red berries continued to excite the palate throughout the mouth-watering finish. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2010, the Southern Rhone and Outstanding Value

While everone is scurrying to buy as much 2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape as they can possibly afford, I invite you to take a look at this smart and affordable alternative. At an average of $14.99, the Michel Gassier Cercius was easily the best quality to price ratio bottle I tasted this year. At that price, you could buy this by the case and play Santa Claus.

2010 Michel Gassier Cercius (average price $15) - The nose showed ripe mixed berries, sweet spicy cookie and chalky minerals. On the palate, it was soft like velvet yet juicy and balanced it’s 14.5% alcohol very well as blackberry jam and violet candies messaged the senses. The finish was long and enjoyable with ripe berries and herbs. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

For the Pinot Noir Fanatic

For that friend or loved one that searches the world over for great Pinot, I can think of nothing better than the 2010 Ata Rangi Pinot Noir. Up until this year, I didn’t know that such amazing Pinot was being made in New Zealand. This wine is a perfect balance between the old world and the new, a truly exciting wine.

2010 Ata Rangi Pinot Noir (average price $45) - The nose was highly expressive with an excellent balance of fruit and earth, showing black cherry and clove with moist fall leaves, and a hint of mountain herbs. On the palate, it was medium-bodied with silky textures and a balanced dose of zesty acidity. Juicy cherry, strawberry, spice and notes of extra dark chocolate lingered with hints of tannin revealing a finely-balanced structure. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

For the Chardonnay Lover

You simply can’t go wrong with Ridge. This producer of great Zinfandels and Cabernet, also turns out some of the best Chardonnay made in California. Give the gift of Ridge, and open a new door to what is being made thse days in the Santa Cruz mountains.

2009 Ridge Chardonnay Estate (average price $38) - The nose was elegant and showy with aromas of peach and mango, roasting cashews, a spritz of lime and a hint of vanilla. On the palate, it was smooth with medium weight, showing peach and ripe apricot with a hint of green apple and minerals. The finish was long with peach and a lingering hint of butterscotch. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

When the occasion calls for Champagne

If the occasion calls for a bottle of great Champagne, the Ruinart Brut Rosé will certainly impress. It’s a wine that will thrill the taster with amazing depth and a beautiful presence on the palate.

NV Ruinart Champagne Brut Rosé (average price $65) - The nose was finessed, drawing you in with aromas of cherry, light strawberry, floral tones and mineral laden citrus. On the palate, it was richer than I expected from the nose, yet remarkably refined and almost whimsical, showing strawberry, lemony tones and minerals that carried well into the moderatly long finish and blossomed across the senses. (92 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

If it has to be Châteauneuf-du-Pape

By now, everyone has heard that 2010 is a stellar year for Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and the hype is true. However, you don’t need to seek out that $150 prestige bottle to impress this year. The 2010 Roger Sabon Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée is all that and at a thrid of the price.

2010 Roger Sabon Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée (average price $45) - The nose showed rich red and black berries with savory mushroom and meaty notes, a hint of pepper and herbal tea leaves. On the palate, it was medium-bodied with firm structure buried beneath intense red cherry fruit, cinnamon spice, and led to a long, long palate-staining finish. It’s enjoyable now with a short decant, yet should age and improve effortlessly for 7 - 10 years. (94 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Something Different, Something New (white wine)

If I had to name one thing that really stuck out to me, from this year's tastings, it would be Gewürztraminer from Alsace. These are very unique wines with outrageous aromatics and a beautiful balance of acidity with a hint of sweetness.

2008 Domaines Schlumberger Gewurztraminer Les Princes Abbés (average price $27) - The nose was rich yet fresh and leapt from the glass with ripe peach, sweet florals, spice, minerals and a hint of fungi. On the palate it was medium-bodied with a hint of residual sweetness giving way to flavors of lychee, honey and minerals with balanced acidity that made the mouth water. The finish was clean and long with a slight bitterness followed by notes of dried apricot and almond.(92 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

For the Italiophile

While everyone is raving about the ripe 2007 vintage in Brunello, I suggest looking back one year to 2006. The 2006 Capanna Brunello di Montalcino Riserva hasn’t peaked yet, but when it does—beauty. Gift this to an Italian wine lover, and watch their eyes light up. Brunello also makes a great gift for the boss, it simply has name recognition, and in this case, the bottle lives up to the hype.

2006 Capanna Brunello di Montalcino Riserva (average price $80) - The nose showed dark, sweet red berries, herbs, cedar and an airy pine nettle note. On the palate, it was full, velvety and balanced with ripe red berries and spice against a firm lurking structure. The finish was long with mouth-coating tannin showing at the close. It was a total joy to drink and a bottle that will find its way into my cellar. (96 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

From Piedmont with Love

Barolo, Barolo, Barolo… Can you tell I love Barolo? Imagine how happy I was when I decided that one of the best Baroli I tasted from the 2007 vintage also happened to be a bottle that cost around $65. Barolo does not come cheap, and great Barolo? Forget about it—until now.

2007 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole (average price $60) - I enjoyed another wonderful tasting of the '07 Vajra Barolo Bricco dell Viole today. What's amazing about this wine is how it takes the ripe nature of the 2007 vintage and marries it to lifting aromatics of finessed red fruits and floral notes. The palate is refined and silky smooth, as the fruit washes across your senses yet remains juicy and vibrant throughout. On the finish, fine tannins take control and remind you that this is Barolo you're drinking. I can't wait to taste this in another 5 – 10 years. (95 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Back to the Southern Rhone

What a nose on the 2009 Domaine La Garrigue Vacqueyras Cuvée de l'Hostellerie. I found myself savoring the aromas again and again. Not to mention, its beautiful structure, juciy and spicy fruits—oh, and the price is unbeatable.

2009 Domaine La Garrigue Vacqueyras Cuvée de l'Hostellerie (average price $24) - The nose showed blackberry fruit, blue and purple floral notes, and a zesty dose of ginger and sweet spices. On the palate, it was soft, medium-bodied and juicy, as a mix of dark fruits, inner floral notes and spice intermingled going into the finish, which showed hints of tannin and dark berry fruits. When this wine was first opened, it was simple on the nose and tight on the palate. However, after three hours open in bottle, it came to life and was truly enjoyable. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

An Umbrian spin on Sangiovese

Tonight I took a break from tasting new wines. It had been a long day and I needed to stack the deck. I needed a wine that would not let me down, a wine that I had been saving for a day like today. Tonight, I opened a bottle of Paolo Bea.

The last time I talk about Paolo Bea was in my piece “Paolo Bea: A legacy in the making”. My opinions have not changed. These are amazing wines that, I believe, will one day stand shoulder-to-shoulder with the biggest names in Italy. Tonight's bottle was the 2003 Paolo Bea Montefalco Rosso Riserva Vigna Pipparello, from the region of Umbria. It's a blend made primarily from Sangiovese (60%) with Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (25%) and Sagrantino (15%).  If you love Brunello or top-shelf Chianti Classico, then this is a bottle that you must seek out.

The 2003 Paolo Bea Montefalco Rosso Riserva Vigna Pipparello came across as slightly more mature than expected, yet stunning none-the-less and with many years of fine drinking ahead of it. Coming from a perfectly stored bottle and tasted over the course of a number of hours. It was wonderfully soft and sweet on the palate with a haunting bouquet that pulled me in. Paolo Bea continues to impress me and it’s a wonder that this winery isn’t on the A-lists of more Italian wine lovers.

Keep an eye out for a recipe for
Pizzoccheri Valtellinesi on Whats Cookin'

It was enjoyed with a plate of Pizzoccheri Valtellinesi, which is a recipe I’ve been trying to master for a few weeks now. It’s seriously stick-to-your-ribs, home-style, Northern Italian cooking with fresh buckwheat pasta, cabbage, potatoes and onions, in a Fontina and sage butter sauce. Sounds easy right? Well, I’ve been having trouble getting right until—today. It was awesome and the Paolo Bea made it really shine.

2003 Paolo Bea Montefalco Rosso Riserva Vigna Pipparello - The nose showed intense black cherry, cinnamon stick, and chalky minerals with notes of mushroom and forest floor. On the palate, sweet ripe cherry enveloped the senses, like a sweet and savory sauce with beefy notes and clove spice, adding complexities. With each sip, I was tempted to take another. It was soft as silk yet weightless on the palate with high-toned red fruit, hints of mint and herbal tea on the finish. (94 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

As much as I love Wine-searcher, sometimes an individual retailer deserves the spotlight: Vinopolis Wine Shop in Portland Oregon has a great selection of Paolo Bea wines. They also carry an excellent selection of wines from around the world, along with some of the most highly sought after Italian wines you could hope to find. If you're interested in exploring the the wines of Paolo Bea, this is a great place to start.

Big bottles and collectors who love them.

There is nothing like a big vintage bottle of wine to bring friends and fellow enthusiasts together. When I first caught the wine bug, my studies led my to the theories behind big bottles and the benefits that come with them. We’re talking about magnums, jeroboams (double magnum) and imperials (6 liter), bottles that the average consumer equates with cheap party wine but when talking about ageable fine wine, these bottles provide benefits that few are aware of.

So what’s so great about big bottles? They age slower, but many will also argue that they age better. There are many theories behind these benefits, and one cold hard fact that has convinced me to buy and store big bottles. Some push the theory that wine is a living thing, and that when more wine is in the bottle and able to age slowly, it supposedly ages more gracefully. This may be true, but I doubt that it’s scientifically proven.

Then there’s the fact that exposure to air is one of the main factors in how a wine ages. One of the main reasons for winemakers to keep the cork closure (instead of switching to screw caps or synthetics) is that corks allow a miniscule and slow transfer of air into the bottle. The thing about magnums is that there is just as much air in the bottle as your average 705ml. Less oxygen means slower oxidation (yes, wine oxides when exposed to oxygen) and slower oxidation results in slower aging. This is in no way a cold hard fact, but certainly a good reason for someone to put some magnums away for the future.

So what’s the big bottle that brought this topic to these pages? The Montevertine Il Sodaccio.

1985 Azienda Agricola Montevertine Il Sodaccio Vino da Tavola (from 3L / Double Magnum) – The most interesting thing about this wine was how it seemed to grow younger and younger throughout the night. The nose showed dusty potpourri with dried cranberries, earth and leather; but as time passed, the dried fruit turned more and more vibrant and took on a sweet mature roundness. On the palate, I found sour cherry with tobacco and dried herbs. At first, this wine was tight with a sour hint, but the fruit grew darker, sweeter and mouth-filling as time went on. The finish was long with dried red fruit and sweet earth. (93 points)

As I mentioned above, this bottle encouraged a group of wine lovers to form a dinner and tasting around its opening. And so the theme “Wines that don’t suck” became the mantra of the night; and I can assure you, these wines did not suck. Nothing like a bunch of wine collectors all pulling out bottles to impress their friends.

Before I move onto the notes, I would be remiss not to mention the amazing meal we had at Sojourn Restaurant at 244 East 79th street. I kid you not when I say that it was some of the most enjoyable food I’ve eaten in a while. It wasn’t the originality or obscure technique that impressed me; instead, it’s that the food was perfectly cooked, perfectly seasoned and presented beautifully. I can’t think of a better compliment to pay to a Chef and his kitchen. Bravo… Go to this restaurant.

On to the Notes:

2009 Loimer Riesling Kamptal DAC – The nose was fresh and uplifting with white flowers, sweet butter and a spritz of lime. On the palate, I found lemon pith and stony minerals, which started full and juicy but turned dry into the finish. (86 points)

NV Ulysse Collin Champagne Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs – Upon being popped and poured, the nose was all buttery popcorn and pecorino cheese. With time in the glass, aromas of ground wheat and whey rose with a hint of green foliage came forward. On the palate, this was light and refreshing with steely malt, sour stone fruit, and possibly young mango. The finish was a little bitter but very pleasant. (90 points)

1998 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese – The nose on the Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese was a refreshing, confectionary treat as aromas of raw sugar and floral green stems led the way to honeyed grapefruit and citrus zest. On the palate, I found a mix of juicy orange, apricot and/or pear that seemed to fill every taste bud with an explosion of flavor and slowly faded into a mouthwatering finish. (93 points)

2008 Frank Cornelissen Etna Susucaru – This wine was a conundrum. It was an exercise in what wine could be if every winemaker harvested fruit from volcanic slopes with a totally non-interventionalist approach. This wine showed what could only be described by this taster as cherry grapefruit juice with fresh picked mint and hints of green grass. On the palate, it was light on its feet with apple and mulling spices, more grapefruit, and a refreshing herbal tea note. The finish was fresh and cleansed the palate nicely. Is it wine? I think so. Do I like it? Absolutely. (92 points)

1998 Travaglini Gattinara Riserva – The first thought to enter my mind as I tasted this wine was: Why don’t I have this in my cellar? The nose showed a dark and ripe expression of Nebbiolo. It was like ripe black cherries buried in rich, fresh tossed soil with a savory beef stock brewing off to the side. On the palate, I found rich red fruits playing a sweet and sour act as fresh mint and spices filled out this wine’s broad shoulders. The finish was long with red fruit and soil but also fine silky tannin, which promised a bright future for the 1998 Travaglini Gattinara Riserva. (94 points)

1994 Case Basse (Soldera) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – I honestly believe this bottle could have been open for many more hours to really strut its stuff. On the nose, I found dusty cherry, leather, soil and a hint of eucalyptus. Earth, stems and sweet red berries filled out the palate with vibrant acidity. The finish showed savory broth and notes of salinity. (94 points)

1995 Müller-Catoir Mußbacher Eselshaut Rieslaner Auslese – The color was a rich gold with amber hints and a beautiful sheen. The nose was heady, with tropical fruits, orange peel and a hint of old library book, which ground the ripe fruit in reality. The palate showed flavors of more tropical fruits, but wrapped in baking puff pastry with teaming acidity that kept the sweetness in check. The finish was long with a sour patch tinge. (92 points)

1994 Isole e Olena Vin Santo del Chianti Classico - Roasted almond, varnish, orange peel, chestnut and smoke filled out the nose of this beautiful Vin Santo. The palate was perfectly resolved yet lively with acidity, and sweet caramel was followed by roasting nuts and a hint of tropical fruit. The finish was over a minute long with vibrant acidity, showing nuts and orange that faded into warm wood tones. (92 Points)

Great friends, wine, cigars and… food; ah well, you can’t win them all.

The best and the worst of times, the best being a night of great friends, wine and even some cigars; the worst being a restaurant that didn’t quite make the cut.

As I mentioned a few days ago, I was off to the Blue Grotto for a tasting and dinner with friends on Saturday night. Without going into much explanation, the food was… okay. With a beautiful interior and great view of Atwells Ave from my seat, everything seemed fine. The appetizers were great, as was the wine, which I’ll get into shortly, but the entrée’s fell flat.

With lobster ravioli that was undercooked and under-stuffed, a risotto with a mealy texture that reeked of being left too long on the pass, and a pasta dish that was simply unremarkable, I have to unfortunately give a thumbs down to this Federal Hill stalwart. Honestly, I had my fears, since a number of locals referred to the establishment as outdated or tired. Going against their recommendation was a mistake.

But that is where the bad ends and the good begins.

The wines that night were amazing, I sat their happily, gazing at a lineup of bottles which contained four famous names from Italy with a Brunello di Montalcino, a Super Tuscan, a Tuscan syrah, and a Barolo.

We started with the 1997 Antinori, Tignanello, which was gorgeous with dark raspberries, flowery herbal tea, and road tar showing on the nose. The palate was luscious and rich, yet finessed with blackberry jam and plum with citrus sprits and a hint of wood showing through. The finish was long, as red fruits began to show. This bottle was one of my favorites but shut down after being opened for about five hours.

The 1997 Poggio di Sotto, Brunello di Montalcino had a lovely and elegant floral nose with red fruit and woodsy herbs. On the palate, it showed round cherry fruit and charred wood on a well-balanced frame, but the finish closed down hard as my palate was coated with tannin. I’d give this bottle a few more years, at least, and can’t wait to taste it down the road.

Next, the 1999 Isole e Olena, Syrah Collezione de Marchi Toscana showed a deep purple color in the glass. Its dark brooding nose was smoky with musk, plums, and spice cookies. On the palate, it was velvety smooth with more plum and a bit of grapiness, but, came across as one-dimensional with an unremarkable finish. This may have passed over the hill or at least been in a disjointed stage of its life.

Lastly, the 2000 Aldo Conterno, Barolo Granbussia, showed candied red fruit with cedar, leather, crushed fall leaves and a seductive Christmas spice on the nose. On the palate, it was full-bodied and juicy with ripe strawberry, tobacco, licorice and spice. The finish was long, with red fruit, yet clean, showing silky tannin. This is an approachable bottle now, but it still shows a balance that promises many years of good drinking and, with all this ripe fruit, might one day be a truly classic Barolo.

With that it was back to the city, to a cigar lounge I had stumbled upon a few nights ago called Cigar Masters. With four bottles tucked in my bag and camera in hand, I walked from Federal hill across I95 and back toward the Rhode Island Convention center. Providence was alive and buzzing with activity this Saturday night. Put that together with the sights and clean streets and it beats the hell out of my hometown, at least until 2:00 am (when EVERYTHING closes).

Cigar Masters is an unpretentious cigar lounge that walks a tight rope between relaxed cocktail / wine bar and old world-styled private club. It’s basically the best of both worlds since you can walk in for a drink and smoke, find a cozy corner to lose yourself, or find some new friends. This is not just a room full of smokers; instead imagine multiple rooms done in wood and earth tones with mood lighting, art, books, and wide screen TVs, along with all manner of cigar smoking paraphernalia.

You pick the room that fits your mood and the rest is easy. The best part is that, for the non-smoker, this is still an option, since the ventilation system works wonders pulling the smoke from the rooms before it can become obnoxious.

What’s more, the walk-in humidor provides a vast selection of cigars and is under the careful supervision of its own cigar master, who is happy to point you toward the cigar that fits you best, educate you on your purchase, storage, smoking; you name it. Being something of a cigar novice myself, I felt perfectly comfortable and enjoyed the cigars recommended to me.

Cigar Masters also touts a balanced wine and spirits list with the cigar smoker in mind. Big, juicy reds fill out the bulk of their list with a number of fine bottles for the serious drinker. However, I found myself gravitating to their list of ports, or to be more specific, vintage ports.

The 1991 Dow’s, Vintage Port was a beast on the nose with vibrant black cherry, chocolate and boysenberry. The palate was rich and silky with cherry fruit, cinnamon and black strap molasses with some tangy acidity showing through. The finish was fresh yet layered with cherry and dark chocolate.

Lastly, the 1977 Dow’s, Vintage Port showed serious class and breed with cherry, spice, caramel and burnt sugar on its nose. The palate showed cherry cough syrup, roasted dark espresso beans and dark, dry cocoa, but remained juicy and smooth. The finish went on and on with sour cherry and espresso notes.

What an evening, I thought, sitting there with a cigar and a glass of port while chatting it up with a group of locals I found myself hanging with. If I had to describe Providence in one word, it would be… inviting. Whether it’s the stores or restaurants, people in bars or on the streets, it’s an amazing city, populated with warm, friendly people and something new to do or explore around every corner.

To check out Cigar Master's website, click here!

I must give an honorable mention to Flemings Steak House, touted as the best steak in Providence, Rhode Island. Unfortunately I didn't have the time to formally sit for diner but their cozy bar and wonderful staff provided me with the perfect atmosphere to complete a lot of my work. I guarantee they are on my list for the next visit.

To find the Antinori, Tignanello 1997 on Wine-Searcher, click here!
To find Aldo Conterno's 2000 Granbussia on Wine-Searcher, click here!
To find Dow's Vintage Port on Wine-Searcher, click here!