Macari Revisited: The 2010 Cab Franc

By Eric Guido

You have to give credit where credit is due. This is the phrase that comes to mind while tasting the 2010 Macari Cabernet Franc. Why? Well, for one thing, I’ve spent the last few years thinking that Cabernet Franc in the North Fork was a lost cause. I found much more enjoyment from Merlot and various white wines from the region. Still, I work hard to leave all preconceptions behind when tasting wine. And it's a good thing that i did so tonight, because tonight, I was schooled.

Granted, this is Macari, whose praise I have sung in the past, yet never for the Cabernet Franc. Keep in mind, if you’re a fan of mineral and soil laden Chinon, this may not be for you. However, when putting this against some of the most interesting Cab Franc from California, you quickly come to see its qualities and its value.  There are no dank soil or bell pepper notes to be found here; just fruit, character and balance. Which makes me think--it may be time to revisit the North Fork of Long Island again.

What’s more, this is not to be classified as a big wine. Although my tasting note may speak of a velvety palate and almost confectionary bouquet, this wine would still pair beautifully with food due to its balance. What it really comes down to is that Macari really hit it out of the park with the 2010 Cabernet Franc. It’s not easy to impress me with a ripe and forward styled wine, but this really did the trick.

2010 Macari Cabernet Franc - The nose was rich, almost confectionary and wonderfully expressive with spiced black cherry, fig and cola, fresh rosemary and an almost dusty gravel-mineral note, which kept it seated in reality. On the palate, I found this to be velvety smooth, like a dark wave washing over the senses with saturating blackberry fruit, wild herbs and balanced acidity. The finish lasted on the palate with hints of tannin tingling and tugging at the senses. Did this really come from the North Fork--Oh yes it did! (92+ points)

For more information and tasting notes, check out the Marcari website or my post from 2011: Producer Spotlight: Macari Vineyards

A Chianti Lovers Dream: The 2010 Riservas

The '95 Felsina Chianti Classico
Riserva is still going strong at age 19

An article by: Eric Guido

Some wine is meant for the cellar, while most can go right to the table. But these generalizations tend to fade when talking about Chianti Classico. In their youth, these are fun and fruity wines with enough acidity and structure to carry a meal. However, as they mature they soften, grow darker, and begin to display more earth, natural wood and spice. It is this evolution that keeps me putting bottles of Chianti Classico in the cellar.  In a good vintage, it is one of the most versatile wines being made today.  However, where a regular Chianti Classico (normale) will bring you night after night of enjoyment at your dinner table, the Riserva level wines mature beautifully in the cellar.  Which brings us to the 2010 Chianti Classico Riservas.

Classic is a word often used to describe the long, cool growing season in 2010, with a decent amount of rain moderated by periods of extended warmth and sunshine. This mix produced exciting wines of structure with juicy acidity and bright, focused fruit that really grabs your attention and holds it from the first glass through the last. Most of the straight Chianti Classico's are drinking beautifully right now, yet the 2010 vintage played right into winemakers' hands, allowing them to create Riserva level wines of exceptional quality and agebility. These are serious Chianti Classico that show the best qualities of the region and belong in your cellar. The early drinking 2011 vintage will give you more to drink over the next few years, but for me; stocking up on 2010 is my priority, because these wines should provide two decades (or more) of enjoyment.

Here's a list of some of the best 2010 Chianti Classico Riservas, in a number of price ranges, that I've tasted this year.

On To The Tasting Notes:

2010 San Giusto a Rentennano Chianti Classico Le Baroncole - The nose showed an intense burst of woodsy raspberry and cherry with hints of floral undergrowth, cedar and herbs, offset by a whiff of dark chocolate. On the palate, this showed silky textures with a vibrant, sexy personality, coating the senses with ripe red fruits and spice. Beneath it all was a refined structure that you could miss on a single sip under all that intense fruit. The finish turned fresh, yet grainy tannin could still be felt on the palate. This was a remarkably balanced wine with a slight inflection of oak, that's drinking great now, but should get even better with time. (94 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher! (avg. $45)

2010 Fontodi Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo - The nose was restrained at first, yet became more giving with time in the decanter. Tart black cherry, moist fall leaves, dried flowers and licorice were all on display, yet still holding back. On the palate, it was tense, yet concentrated and dark with compact cherry, wood (not oak) and leather notes, kept in check by a stern tannic backbone. The finish was youthful and ungiving, needing years in the cellar to show it’s true colors, yet the potential is there. This is a wine for the cellar. (94 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher! (avg. $75)

2010 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva - The nose was restrained and youthful, showing young cherry, dried flowers, animal musk, minerals, and Tuscan dust. On the palate, it showed silky textures with tart cherry and dried spices, which quickly firmed up with fine-grained tannin. Compact flavors of red fruit and cedar lingered long on the dry, tense finish. This 2010 riserva is in need of five to ten years in the cellar, and should be wonderfully classic as it matures. (92 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher! (avg. $27)

2010 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva - The nose showed cherry with hints of stem, animal musk and a bright herbal note, which provided lift. On the palate, I found vibrant red fruits, spice, old wood tones and hints of soil. The finish showed hints of structure with juicy red fruits.  This is a great Chianti Classico Riserva in the value category; it's drinking great now with proper decanting, and can go a decade or more in the cellar. (91 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher! (avg. $20)

2010 Antinori Chianti Classico Villa Antinori Riserva - The nose showed ripe black cherry, minty herbs, cedar and dark oak looming in the background. On the palate, it was rich yet remained fresh throughout. Spicy red fruit, leather and notes of dark chocolate cascaded along the palate, leaving concentrated red berry fruit on the finish. Although the oak was more pronounced than I usually prefer, I still found it enjoyable. This wasn't my cup of tea, but if oak with your Sangiovese is a quality you appreciate, this wine will be for you. (89 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher! (avg. $32)

The Difference a Vintage Can Make

Two very different wines and two very different vintages,
both beautiful for different reasons.

Any reader of mine will know that I am a huge fan of Chianti Classico. Years of trail and error, let downs and happy surprises, have left me with some very firm opinions about Chianti and Sangiovese from Tuscany in general. For one thing, many of these wines can age, as we will see from 2010. Yet, there’s absolutely nothing wrong with young Chianti, when made in a more open style or from a more accessible vintage, like 2011.

This brings me to San Giusto a Rentennano Chianti Classico, which is traditionally styled Chianti made from Sangiovese (95%) and a small amount of Canaiolo (5%). I decided to do a little side-by-side comparison tonight of the 2010 and 2011 vintages. Two very different wines, both marked by the vintages from which they hail. However, there’s also a little something more. In 2011, portions of the grapes added to the wine were whole clusters (stems and all), a practice found often in Burgundy, but seldom in Tuscany. The difference is quite noticeable and worth tasting for exploratory purposes alone.

In the end, these are both beautiful wines, for very different reasons, and I look forward to following them throughout the years. I would hope my readers would give them a chance as well.

On To The Notes:

2010 San Giusto a Rentennano Chianti Classico – The nose was radiant and dark showing rich black cherry, hints of cedar, undergrowth and crushed fall leaves. On the palate, it was tight yet focused with tart red fruits, spice and herbs. Vibrant acidity kept the mouth watering, yet this wine needs a couple of years in the cellar to unwind. The finish showed a bitter twang with drying tannin coating the senses. This was enjoyable, but more for it’s, possible, future potential than it’s performance tonight. (90 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher! (avg. cost $20)

2011 San Giusto a Rentennano Chianti Classico – The nose was bright and vibrant, showing tart cherry, stemmed strawberries, and autumnal spice with hints of pine. On the palate, it caressed the senses with soft red fruits accompanied by textbook Sangiovese acidity. This wine practically sizzled on the palate, with notes of cedar, herbs and spice. The finish was refined, showing hints of structure, yet fully enjoyable today. (91 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher! (avg. cost $20)

The 2010 is tight and tart, a wine that I’d love to revisit in a few years. If the fruit unwinds and catches up with the absolutely beautiful bouquet, then this wine could one day be gorgeous. The 2011 is more open, yet still a stern, acid driven Sangiovese. Today, I’d reach for the 2011, without question. Yet, I have a feeling that the 2010 will improve for years to come.

Southern Rhone: Value Hunters Welcome

There is amazing value to be found in the Southern Rhone, especially in the categories of Côtes du Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages and Gigondas. What's more, 2010 has turned out to be an amazing vintage in the region. Grenache is front and center in most of these wines with Syrah used as a likely blending partner. I've been having a great time exploring this region. There are wines for the hedonist as well as a lover of the austere.

My top wine, Les Garrigues from Domaine de la Janasse, may not exactly be considered a "value" to some, but it's certainly a relative value when you consider the quality of wine found in the bottle. It's essentially a baby Chateauneuf du Pape. The rest that follow are all amazing value wines that will thrill you with pure, focused fruit that is perfectly ripe yet never cloying. These are great wines to introduce someone to the Southern Rhone and the styles that are possible in the region.

On to the Wines:

Chateau de Saint Cosme is currently enjoying waves of praise from nearly every critic for their top-shelf Gigondas. However, you don't need to buy up to the top to enjoy this house’s style. Also well worth the hunt is their entry level Gigondas and Northern Rhone St. Joseph.

2010 Chateau de Saint-Cosme Cotes du Rhone - The nose seemed to sway between fruit and earth, at first showing intense red berry, then pepper, herbal notes with fresh turned soil and a hint of bacon fat. Each time I put this to my nose, I seemed to find something slightly different. On the palate, it was silky smooth yet juicy with dark cherry and black pepper. The finish was dry with palate-coating tannin and a hint of perceptible heat. I’m interested in seeing where this may go with a year or two in the cellar. (88 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

Some wines just want time to open up, and that was certainly the case with the Eric Texier Cotes du Rhone Brezeme. When I first opened this bottle, it seemed thin and diluted. However, two hours later, it revealed all of it's alluring personality which lasted into the following day. This was a very good bottle that will find fans of a more traditional style.

2010 Eric Texier Cote du Rhone Brezeme - The nose showed blackberry with savory spices, reminding me of mustard seed and pepper followed by mineral laden black stone. On the palate, it was light-to-medium bodied with zesty acidity, black fruits, grill char, herbs and orange peel. The finish was dry with cheek-puckering tannin, showing tart black fruits and pepper notes. (88 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

The Lavau Gigondas is a perfect introduction to Gigondas. It's interesting to think that this designation used to be part of the all-encompassing Cotes du Rhone Villages appellation, because the wines from Gigondas are so unique. I find them earthier, more floral and with elegant fruits.

2010 Lavau Gigondas - The nose showed fresh blackberries, violet floral tones, slate dust, pepper notes and a hint of spiced cookie. On the palate, it was at first rich, yet turned elegant and juicy with pure black fruits, licorice and hints of mountain herbs. The finish was lasting with blackberry fruit and violet candies lingering long after the close. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

A very good Cote du Rhone Villages wine comes Philippe Cambie. This bottle received huge critical acclaim, and although I wouldn't place it as high as some other critics, it's certainly worth tasting. This is a rich, intense, dare I say hedonistic wine that will impress for its ability to color within the lines.

2010 Calendal (Philippe Cambie) Cotes du Rhone Villages Plan de Dieu - The nose showed black cherry and blackberry jam with lavender and rock dust. On the palate, it was medium-bodied, showing rich textures and a hint of sweetness to its rich, dark fruits and spices with an acid-driven core of minerals. A bit of alcohol was perceptible into the finish, which was slightly dry with palate-staining fruits. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

The Gassier Cercius is easily one of my top value wines of 2012. I've yet to put this in front of someone that didn't like it. Don't look for layers of depth here but you can certainly expect an excellent bottle of wine that thrills people with its balanced ripe flavors and juicy personality.

2010 Michel Gassier Cercius - The nose showed ripe mixed berries, sweet spicy cookie and chalky minerals. On the palate, it was soft like velvet yet juicy and it balanced its 14.5% alcohol very well, as blackberry jam and violet candies messaged the senses. The finish was long and enjoyable with ripe berries and herbs. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Domaine de la Janesse has been improving from vintage to vintage. Their Chateauneuf du Pape is one of my favorites from the region, and each wine I've tasted in the portfolio is well worth the tariff. The Terre d'Argile is a major step up from the Cotes du Rhone and with great structure that should keep in maturing through the next 5 - 8 years.

2010 Domaine de la Janasse Cotes du Rhone Villages Terre d’Argile - The nose showed a vibrant mix of ripe wild berries, blueberry jam, sweet spices, licorice, hints of vanilla and mountain herbs. On the palate, it was rich and full-bodied yet showed excellent acidity, which kept it in check and left a juicy sensation throughout. Crushed blackberry and spice saturated the senses, yet a hint of heat detracted ever so slightly. The finish was long and juicy, showing pure ripe blackberry fruit. (92 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Domaine du Grapillon has been making one of my "go-to" bottles of Gigondas for the last five years. These are ripe but with beautiful focus and Gigondas character.

2010 Domaine du Grapillon d’Or Gigondas 1806 - The nose showed spicy blackberry fruit with lavender, black pepper, dried meats and crushed rocks. On the palate, it was like velvet over a stone structure yet juicy throughout with black fruits, spice and hints of black licorice. Berries, pepper and olive tapenade lingered on the medium-long finish with a tinge of heat. (92 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

My top wine, Les Garrigues from Domaine de la Janasse, may not exactly be considered a "value" to some, but it's certainly a relative value when you consider the quality of wine found in this bottle. It's essentially a baby Chateauneuf du Pape.

2010 Domaine de la Janasse Cotes du Rhone Les Garrigues - The nose was plush with ripe blackberry fruits, violet candies, herbs and sweet spices. On the palate, it was velvety with intense concentration yet balanced with acidity that kept it fresh and juicy. Sweet blackberry, cola and violets from the bouquet filled the senses. The finish was remarkably long with lasting dark fruits that seemed to change from ripe to tart as they melted from the palate. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

A Chile Revelation

Loving and collecting wine is like anything else in the world; something started you on the path. Maybe it was that ’96 Barolo after an intense Saturday dinner service, a special wine that a friend poured for you at an event, or a vacation you took in a wine region. No matter what the reason is, it left a mark on you and part of the reason you keep going is to try and recapture that moment. However, like anything else, those special moments don’t happen too often. In the end, you can find yourself going months without being surprised by a new wine or years without being impressed with a different region. 

However, once in a blue moon, those moments happen; and last night, I had one with the wines of Chile.

I’d say the most amazing part of this revelation was when I looked at the cost of my highest scoring bottles, which were both under $20. To have wine this good, at this price point; I think I’m in love.

One is a Cabernet of exceptional character and quality that can be enjoyed now, yet still has the ability to age. The other is made from Carmenere. “Carmen-what,” you say? Carmenere was once nothing more than a blending grape for Bordeaux that many believe had seen its last days; however, today it has found a new home in Chile and is thriving. The Terra Noble Carmenere Gran Reserva was like a Ballerina; all muscle and intensity, yet it glided effortlessly across the dance floor… err… palate.

On to the notes:

2009 Terra Noble Carmenere Gran Reserva – This wine was a showstopper as its expressive nose showed a balanced mix of red and black berries, pretty floral notes with a bit of stemy funk, and mocha and oak, which followed close behind. On the palate, it showed great balance as its rich body gave way to juicy blue and red berry fruit with cinnamon and black pepper. The finish was long, showing a mix of ripe berries. (94 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2008 Santa Carolina Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva de Familia – The nose showed intense, spicy blackberry jam, animal musk and coffee notes. On the palate, it was smooth and velvety, yet balanced with wild berries, dark chocolate, and subtle cinnamon. The finish was long and saturating with intense dark chocolate-covered dried cranberry. The tannins slowly melted away on the finish and showed great potential for the future of this wine. (92 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Casa Silva Carménère Reserva - On the nose, I found blackberry, chalk dust, green bell pepper and manure. On the palate, it was big yet balanced, showing wild berries, more green-pepper leading to a cough syrup like finish. Looking back on my notes, I feel as if these descriptors fail to do this wine justice. The fact is, it was highly enjoyable in a gripping and earthy way and the complete opposite of the Terra Noble. (92 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2010 Errazuriz Sauvignon Blanc Estate - The nose showed lemon with fresh cut grass, minerals and a bit of nuttiness. On the palate, this was mouth-filling with sour grapefruit, lime, minerals, and green apple. The finish was long with sour patch citrus fruits. Awesome value too. (90 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

Is it Napa or Friuli? Neither. It's Massican

When you hear the words Napa Valley, there are a number of things that may come to mind. Certainly the large scale Cabernets and Meritage blends that Napa is so proud of. Maybe the 1976 Judgment of Paris that put California on the international map. Or, if you’re truly initiated, it might be the exciting Sauvignon Blanc that has been hitting the market. However, one thing that doesn’t easily come to mind are Northern Italian-inspired wines that taste more of the old world than the new, yet somehow manage to still be truly Californian. Yet that is exactly what Massican has captured in each of their bottles.

Ribolla vines
photo courtesy of Dan Petroski

Now on its second vintage, Massican has succeeded in showing that lightning can strike twice. Headed up by Dan Petroski (of Larkmead Vineyards) and sourcing its fruit from around Napa Valley, Massican strives to show the world that California is capable of creating white wines of verve, rooted in the earth, and electric on the palate.

Is it just another gimmick? Absolutely not. The white wines of Friuli have been wowing palates around the world for well over a decade now. Names such as Jermann, Miani, and Vie di Romans have been finding their way into collectors’ cellars for a long time, and not just the cellars of the committed Italophile; these wines are pleasing to a wide range of palates. Such was the inspiration for Massican.

Sixty-four year old Tocai vines
photo courtesy of Dan Petroski

Having sourced their fruit from Tocai vines that are sixty-four years old, Ribolla from the only known Ribolla vineyard in California and Chardonnay, which is planted in the coolest climate areas of Napa Valley, Massican is showing us that California is capable of more. It's a refreshing take on a region that has proved it can make big, bold wines to compete with Bordeaux. Now Massican has set out to show that it is capable of wines of refinement, earth, acid and stone. Those who love the white wines of Austria, Germany and Northern Italy... These are are for you.

Sauvignon Blanc air-drying for the Passito
photo courtesy of Dan Petroski

To truly set off the environment for this tasting, I invited a fellow wine writer to join me in a taste of Friuli dinner, during which we followed the wines for over four hours all paired with the regional cuisine of Friuli, Italy. It was a stunning success. The Massican wines paired beautifully with the flavors of Friuli. I could almost imagine myself sitting by the fogolar (hearth, cooking, meeting and eating spot in the traditional Friuli home), sipping wines made by the same people who tended the fields and raised the animals that provided us with our meal.

On to the wines:

2010 Massican Annia – The 2010 Annia, a blend of tocai friulano, ribolla gialla and chardonnay, is truly rooted in the earth as aromas of minerals and schist filled out the nose. With further exploration, I found white flowers, lemon zest and green melon. On the palate, an earthy salinity followed by citrus and honeydew melon glided across the senses. There was a lean acidity that provided laser-like focus and a mouthwatering zing that lasted into the finish with flavors of herbs and melon. This wine continued to gain depth and nuance over the course of 24 hours. I would have never expected the Annia came from Napa, and I mean that in the best possible way. (90 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

The food for the wine: The Annia was paired with a salad of baby greens with Prosciuto san Daniel and figs poached in sweet Marsala. The dressing was a reduction of the poaching liquid with a splash of red wine vinegar and olive oil. The pairing was perfect.

2010 Massican Gemina – The nose was floral with honey, almond skins and green apple. On the palate, it showed a fuller body than the Annia with a similar acid profile. Flavors of nectarine and white fruits filled the senses and gained sweetness toward the back palate. The finish was fresh and mouthwatering, as the fruits turned to sour melon. This blend of chardonnay and ribolla gialla was very pleasing, right out of bottle, but really came to life with time in the glass. (91 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

Photo courtesy of Dave Trieger
of Vigna Uva Vino

The food for the wine: The Gemina was paired with Paparot (a cornmeal-spinach soup) with a side of Salsicce al Vino (pork sausage poached in white wine). The softer character of the Gemina lent well to this pleasing peasant dish from Friuli. The biting acidity also gave a much-needed lift to the polenta and spinach.

2010 Massican Sauvignon Blanc – The nose on the Sauvignon Blanc showed lemon sabayon, a classic whiff of cat pee, buttery crust and herbs. On the palate, I found a beautiful balance and structure with flavors of lime and granny smith apple. The finish was long and tangy with citrus and stone fruits. It was a complete and highly enjoyable wine that had an alluring "drink me" personality. It will be hard to keep your hands off this now, however this bottle should continue to improve for a few years in bottle. (93 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

The food for the wine: Costicine di Maile con Verze (braised pork chops with savoy cabbage) with Rape e Patate All’Aceto (tangy skillet turnips and potatoes). This combination was a perfect example of how the bracing acidity of these wines can truly liven up a meal. The pork loin chops over cabbage were seductive in their rich and inviting flavors, but it was the zest of citrus from the Sauvignon that made it so memorable. Add to that the tangy turnip and potatoes with thick sliced pieces of bacon and you have a meal that was pure sinful indulgence.

2010 Massican Passito – The Passito, a sweet wine from air-dried sauvignon blanc and a small part ribolla gialla, showed a bouquet of honeysuckle with mint and sage pudding. On the palate, I found peach, sweet melon and lemon curd with a lush full body and zesty acidity that promised years of development in bottle. The finish went on and on with notes of sweet melon. (91 points)Find it: Wine-Searcher!

The food for the wine: What would you pair with a sweet Pasito-style wine? Some might say a cheese plate, but I’d rather go for a dessert that doesn’t depend on its own sweetness to satisfy—how about a tart? Torta di Mele is an apple tart with a crust made from toasted hazelnuts and breadcrumbs. Without the Passito, it’s a beautiful dessert with flavors of sour apple and roasted nuts in butter and toasty goodness, but with the Passito, it truly shined. Neither the Passito nor the tart took center stage; instead they complemented each other with sweet versus sour and a crispy buttery shell versus a smooth lush sweetness. It was a match made in heaven.

You can also join the Massican mailing list from their website. Here!