Macari Revisited: The 2010 Cab Franc

By Eric Guido

You have to give credit where credit is due. This is the phrase that comes to mind while tasting the 2010 Macari Cabernet Franc. Why? Well, for one thing, I’ve spent the last few years thinking that Cabernet Franc in the North Fork was a lost cause. I found much more enjoyment from Merlot and various white wines from the region. Still, I work hard to leave all preconceptions behind when tasting wine. And it's a good thing that i did so tonight, because tonight, I was schooled.

Granted, this is Macari, whose praise I have sung in the past, yet never for the Cabernet Franc. Keep in mind, if you’re a fan of mineral and soil laden Chinon, this may not be for you. However, when putting this against some of the most interesting Cab Franc from California, you quickly come to see its qualities and its value.  There are no dank soil or bell pepper notes to be found here; just fruit, character and balance. Which makes me think--it may be time to revisit the North Fork of Long Island again.

What’s more, this is not to be classified as a big wine. Although my tasting note may speak of a velvety palate and almost confectionary bouquet, this wine would still pair beautifully with food due to its balance. What it really comes down to is that Macari really hit it out of the park with the 2010 Cabernet Franc. It’s not easy to impress me with a ripe and forward styled wine, but this really did the trick.

2010 Macari Cabernet Franc - The nose was rich, almost confectionary and wonderfully expressive with spiced black cherry, fig and cola, fresh rosemary and an almost dusty gravel-mineral note, which kept it seated in reality. On the palate, I found this to be velvety smooth, like a dark wave washing over the senses with saturating blackberry fruit, wild herbs and balanced acidity. The finish lasted on the palate with hints of tannin tingling and tugging at the senses. Did this really come from the North Fork--Oh yes it did! (92+ points)

For more information and tasting notes, check out the Marcari website or my post from 2011: Producer Spotlight: Macari Vineyards

Sauvignon Blanc: Heat Wave Wine

Here I sit, trudging through the third heat wave that New York City has seen this summer! In fact, 96 degrees is starting to feel like the new normal. The days of big, structured red wines are long gone. At this time of year, I’m longing for something different; something with enough fruit to soothe my craving, yet cold and with enough acidity to keep it mouthwatering. This time of year, I’m craving Sauvignon Blanc.

I know that some people might think of Chardonnay, or even Riesling, but not me. For me, Sauvignon Blanc is the ultimate hot weather wine. It’s extremely versatile with lunch, dinner, the grill, or just sitting around on a hot summer afternoon. What’s more, you can find it in all styles, from rich with ripe tropical tones to mineral-laden with tart citrus that makes your cheeks pucker.

It’s also one of the most versatile food wines I know. How many wines do you know of that can pair with salad, asparagus or sushi? The right Sauvignon Blanc can. What can be confusing is knowing what you’re going to get from a bottle. You can generalize that California will produce a ripe Sauvignon, but it’s often the grower and winemaker that determines a wine's characteristics. Was the climate moderate or hot? Was the soil gravel or schist? Was the wine aged in barrel or stainless steel? The good news is that they are all wonderful expressions of this zesty white wine and a good rule of thumb is this: if it goes with lemon, then it goes with Sauvignon Blanc.

This year I had the pleasure of tasting some outstanding wines from a number of different regions. Many of these have found their way into my cellar, and I'm hoping you will enjoy them as well.

On to the notes:

Napa Valley, United States

Year in and year out, Larkmead's Sauvignon Blanc finds its way to the top of my list. It’s a perfectly balanced wine that can be enjoyed upon release or put away in the cellar to gain further complexities. Unfortunately, it’s made in such small amounts that it never finds its way to retail shelves but is a great reason to visit the winery if you're ever in Napa Valley. In fact, Larkmead is one of a small number of wineries whose mail list I remain signed up for. All of the wines are worth trying.

2011 Larkmead Sauvignon Blanc Lillie B4 block - The nose was beautiful, showing fresh citrus tinged green notes of herbs and field grasses, ripe stone fruit backed by a hint of undergrowth with an intense mineral core. On the palate, it was elegant with silky textures, just the slightest touch of oak ushering in melon, and citrus notes with a hint of herbs. The finish left me wanting more, as its well integrated acidity made the mouth water to notes of ripe melon with a zest of orange. This is easily one of my favorite vintages and reaffirms my belief that this may be the best Sauvignon Blanc coming out of Napa Valley. (93 points) Visit the Larkmead website!

Alto Adige, Italy

Northern Italy continues to impress me with their white varieties. The region has become a powerhouse producer of vibrant white wines that tantalize the palate while refreshing the senses. Last year, one of my top wines came from this same region, and here we are again with a Sauvignon Blanc worth searching for.

2011 Cantina Andriano Sauvignon Blanc Andrius - The nose showed intense tart grapefruit, lemon and green stems with a whiff of dried minerals. On the palate, it was softer than expected with tart acidity showing more toward the close, with flavors of lemon and mineral stones. The finish remained tart, yet mouthwatering with long, staying citrus tones. It was beautiful. (90 points) Find it on: Wine-Search!

North Fork Long Island, United States

The North Fork of Long Island continues to push the envelope as the quality of their red wine rises. However, something that I don’t often hear mentioned is the varietal white wines. I’ve tasted a number of great whites that are worth your attention. A few that immediately come to mind are One Women Wine Chardonnay, Paumanok Chenin Blanc and, of course, Macari Sauvignon Blanc Katherine’s Field.

2012 Macari Sauvignon Blanc “Katherine’s Field” - The nose showed peach skins with hints of lemon, minerals and a dash of vanilla. On the palate, it was racy and clean with ripe white fruits accented by lime and herbs. It finished clean and refreshing with a bitter lemon peel note lingering through the close. (89 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

Stellenbosch, South Africa

South Africa is starting to carve out it’s own niche in the production of Sauvignon Blanc. Not having a lot of experience with the wines, I was very happy to make the discovery below.

2012 Thelema Sauvignon Blanc - The nose showed tart grapefruit aromas with hints of minerals and herbs. On the palate, it was rich and juicy with sour citrus and herbal tones. The cleansing finish was mouthwatering and long with tart citrus fruit. (89 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

Marlborough, New Zealand

And then there’s New Zealand. Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand has certainly gained a well-deserved place among the top producing nations. The wines have a unique character that is truly New Zealand. Their long growing season and maritime influences allow Sauvignon Blanc to achieve amazing intensity, ripeness of fruit and zesty acidity. On those extremely hot days, no wine can cool me down faster.

2012 Chasing Venus Sauvignon Blanc - The nose was fresh with intense aromas of grapefruit, fresh-cut grass, chalky minerals and a hint of green peas. On the palate, a mix of sweet fruit and tart acidity made for a great contrast of textures with flavors of passion fruit, stony minerals and lemon-lime, which seemed to linger for half a minute through the finish. It was remarkably fresh and perfect for a hot summer night. (88 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

Thanksgiving Pairing Guide

By Eric Guido

Does anyone else feel like this Thanksgiving really snuck up on us? Especially living in New York City, where Super-Storm Sandy has been the first thing on all of our minds for the past few weeks. However, this morning, it all became a reality as my wife wanted to discuss what I’m doing for Thanksgiving.

Of course I’m making a turkey with all the trimmings. She really didn’t need to ask. But what I really started to think about is what wines I’d be serving with Thanksgiving. The reality is that a Thanksgiving dinner can be a little difficult to pair with, because there are so many diverse flavors on the table. Turkey, cranberry sauce, stuffing, sweet potatoes (some sweeter than dessert), mashed potatoes, corn—the list goes on and on.

Luckily, I’ve had a lot of experience pairing wine at Thanksgiving, and trust me; I’ve been let down plenty of times. However, we learn from our failures, and the list below is my list of wines that are sure to succeed. Each one should be versatile enough to handle an array of traditional and unique side dishes, and of course, will pair perfectly with turkey.

Pinot Noir is probably the most regularly recommend wine for Thanksgiving, and there’s good reason why. No matter what style of Pinot you choose, they are usually softer and more feminine than most reds. With French style Pinot (Burgundy), you can expect a lighter frame, more acidity and a mineral core. While the new world examples give more fruit and spice, each style manages to accentuate the flavors of turkey, gravy and stuffing (especially with mushrooms).

2009 Calera Pinot Noir - The nose was highly expressive with a bouquet that showed sweet cherries, pine nettles and dark soil notes. On the palate, it was silky smooth yet juicy, with pure dark cherry fruit, hints of herbs, and a crack of pepper. The finish followed suit, as its red fruit and earthy profile slowly melted away from the palate. (91 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Gewurztraminer has become one of my favorite white wines. Its floral, spicy tones on the nose are truly seductive, while the palate offers a lush mouthfeel contrasted by zippy acidity. It’s a perfect white for a holiday meal, because it complements everything else around it with its gorgeous aromatics.

2009 Kellerei-Cantina Tramin Gewürztraminer - The nose shows intense floral notes with spicy, sweet tropical fruits. On the palate, a hint of residual sweetness remains but is well balanced by a mix of balanced acidity and a plush, velvety mouthfeel. The flavors are of dried apricot, white stone fruits, and saline minerals. The sweetness turns pleasantly bitter on the long finish with white stone fruits. (92 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Merlot—yes, I said Merlot. Merlot is usually fruity, round and soft on the palate, yet there’s still enough acidity and structure to allow it to pair beautifully with roasted turkey. What’s more, most Merlot has a savage side with earthy, almost animal tones, and I find that it’s a great pairing against the aromas of potatoes with gravy.

2007 Chateau Ste. Michelle Merlot Cold Creek Vineyard - On the nose, I found plum and blueberry with sweet spices and an underlying dark soil and chalk note that kept it rooted in the earth. On the palate, it was full-bodied with velvety textures, showing excellent balance with a mix of cherry and cranberry, herbs and bitter dark chocolate. The finish showed plums, green pepper and saline minerals with a slight tug of tannin reminding me of its fine structure. (92 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Chardonnay (No oak), I once heard someone say that Chardonnay is a blank canvas on which a winemaker can paint a beautiful picture. Unfortunately, that picture is often of an oak barrel. There’s a lot of buttery (oaky) Chardonnay out there, and it has its place, especially against buttery dishes. However, I invite you to try an unoaked Chardonnay, and what better time to do it than at Thanksgiving? When you take away that layer of oak, Chardonnay shows the qualities of the winemaker more than the barrel. In this case, it’s also an early wine, which really kicks up the freshness of the wine, lowers the alcohol, and makes it a great pairing for your holiday meal.

2012 Macari Chardonnay Early Wine - The nose was lively with a bouquet of green apple, melon, stony minerals and a spritz of citrus. On the palate, a wave of semi-sweet citrus fruits turned to green apple acidity with a slight fizz that spread across the senses. The finish was pure, clean yet showed citrusy green melon and left the mouth watering. (89 points) Find it at Macari Wines!

Syrah performs great with almost any roasted poultry, but it shines best for those who enjoy dark meat, legs and wings with stuffing (Yum!). These are serious reds rooted in the earth with ripe berry fruits, spice, and enough acidity and structure to handle a large array of side dishes.

2010 Éric Texier Côtes du Rhône-Brézème - The nose showed blackberry with savory spices, reminding me of mustard seed and pepper followed by mineral laden black stone. On the palate, it was light-to-medium bodied with zesty acidity, black fruits, grill char, herbs and orange peel. The finish was dry with cheek-puckering tannin, showing tart black fruits and pepper notes. (88 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Zinfandel can be your ace in the whole. Red Zinfandel is a perfect match for the holiday table. Its ripe berries and spice complement the majority of side dishes; and Zins go great with turkey. What’s more, most of your guests will likely be surprised by how good Zinfandel can be (so you get to play the smart sommelier). The better Zinfandels will have juicy acidity and enough structure to really shine in the glass and at the table.

2009 Ridge Zinfandel Lytton Springs - The nose showed red wild berries, a dusting of cinnamon sugar, hints of minerals and herbs, and a whiff of dark baker’s chocolate. On the palate, it was beautifully balanced and elegant with a firm start and juicy finish. Ripe red and blue fruits went from sweet to tart as it flowed across the palate. The finish was long and spicy. (92 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Shiraz may not be the first thing you’d think of to pair with Turkey, but it sure does an amazing job around the table; and let’s not forget that it’s actually the same grape as Syrah. I think the trick is not trying to pair an overly extracted bruiser of a Shiraz (of which there are many coming out of Australia) with turkey. What sold me on this pairing, the first time, was with a sausage and mushroom stuffing—talk about a perfect pairing. (For a really interesting twist, try a dry, sparkling Shiraz.)

2010 Pure Love Wines Shiraz Layer Cake - The nose showed blackberry jam on toast, vanilla, sweet spices and a hint of pine. On the palate, it was soft with vibrant acidity, ripe wild berries, cola and pepper assaulting the senses, which turned to sour blackberry on the finish. (88 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Summer craves Sauvignon Blanc

Summer is here and the weatherman forecasted 98 degrees today! I admit that I'll miss the big, structured red wines that I love so much, but this time of year has me longing for something different; something with enough fruit to soothe my craving, yet cold and with enough acidity to keep it mouthwatering. Summer craves Sauvignon Blanc.

I know that some people might think of Chardonnay, or even Riesling, but not me. For me, Sauvignon Blanc is the ultimate warm weather wine. It’s extremely versatile with lunch, dinner, the grill or just sitting around on a hot summer afternoon. What’s more, you can find it in all styles, from rich with ripe tropical tones to mineral-laden with tart citrus that makes your cheeks pucker.

It’s also one of the most versatile food wines I know. How many wines do you know of that can pair with salad, asparagus or sushi? The right Sauvignon Blanc can. What can be confusing is knowing what you’re going to get from a bottle. You can generalize that California will produce a ripe Sauvignon, but it’s often the grower and winemaker that determine a wine's characteristics. Was the climate moderate or hot? Was the soil gravel or schist? Was the wine aged in barrel or stainless steel? The good news is that they are all wonderful expressions of this zesty white wine and a good rule of thumb is; if it goes with lemon, then it goes with Sauvignon Blanc.

This year I had the pleasure of tasting some outstanding wines from a number of different regions. Many of these have found their way into my cellar and I'm hoping you will enjoy them as well.

On to the wines:

Larkmead's Sauvignon Blanc found its way to the top of my list again this year. Unfortunately, it is made in such small amounts that it never finds its way to retail shelves but is a great reason to visit the winery if you're ever in Napa Valley. Larkmead remains one of a small amount of wineries, whose mail list I am signed up for, with high quality wines across the board.

2010 Larkmead Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Lillie B4 Block - The aromas leapt from the glass, showing sweet peaches in cream, a bit of honey with floral and grassy notes and hints lime on wet stone. On the palate it was rich yet focused and beautifully balanced, with young peach and cheek puckering citrus that stay through the long finish with lingering notes of melon and young mango. This wine was absolutely gorgeous and will be interesting to follow over the next few years. (93 points) Visit the Larkmead website!

Over time, I have become a big fan of the white wines of Trentino, and this Sauvignon Blanc was so good that it stopped me in my tracks. There was so much intensity, yet it remained so pure and focused with great balance. Concilio, a cooperative winery in Trentino, was a new name to me this year but I will be looking out for these wines going forward. Also worth seeking out was their 2011 Gewürztraminer Trentino Conoidi.

2011 Concilio Sauvignon Blanc Trentino Arjent - The nose was striking with aromas of fresh-squeezed lemon, floral perfume and stony minerals. On the palate, it started soft and enveloping yet quickly turned clean and focused as flavors of lemon zest and granny smith apple filled the senses. The finish was lingering yet mouthwatering with lemon and floral notes. This was a great example of Sauvignon Blanc from a northern climate. (92 points) Visit the Concilio website!

My recent trip to The North Fork of Long Island turned up a number of great white wines from the region. Macari's Sauvignon Blanc "Katherine's Field" was one of my favorites. A visit to Macari provides taste after taste in a colidoscope of different varietals and styles that are all highly enjoyable. There is absolutly something for everyone.

2010 Macari Sauvignon Blanc "Katherine's Field" - On the nose, I found ripe tropical fruits, citrus and herbs. On the palates, it had a focused concentration of ripe citrus fruits and lots of brisk acidity to keep it fresh and very pleasant. The sour patch finish was long, long, long. (92 points) Visit the Macari Vineyards website!

To me, Pouilly-Fumé are classic Sauvignon Blanc. They are fresh and mouthwatering with the perfect balance of acidity, fruit and spicy floral notes. Often, these wines might seem light-hearted for New World tastes, but each wine has it's place and this one is a stunner on a hot summer day.

2010 Francis Blanchet Pouilly-Fumé Cuvée Silice - The nose showed sea air, lime zest, salty hard cheeses and herbs. On the palate, it was weightless yet full of flavor with salty minerals on the attack, followed by grapefruit and inner floral notes. The wine's crisp acidity washed down effortlessly and left the flavor of intense grapefruit on the palate. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

I was so sad when I realized that this wine wasn't available at any U.S. retailer (Hint to any importers who are looking for a great Sauvignon Blanc for their portfolio). I tasted this at Gambero Rosso this year and it was a highlight of the entire tasting. If you can find it, buy it, you won't be disappointed.

2010 Girlan Sauvignon Flora - The nose was intense with sauvignon fruit as aromas of citrus, herbs and pungent floral notes penetrated the senses. On the palate, it showed juicy citrus and inner floral notes. The mouth-coating finish was beautifully fresh as it melted away from the palate. (92 points) Visit the Cantina Grilan Website!

Producer Spotlight: Macari Vineyards

North Fork, Long Island

The most amazing thing about Macari Vineyards isn’t the gorgeous tasting room, outfitted from wall to wall with art, gifts and Macari wines, or the large dining area that can easily double as a banquet hall. It isn’t just the size of the vineyards that stretched from Route 48 to the Long Island Sound. And It isn’t just one wine or even a few. The most amazing thing about Macari Vineyards is that they can consistently produce such a large number of wines at such a highly level of quality. Everything else is just icing on the cake. Tasting at Macari provided taste after taste in a colidoscope of different varietals and styles that were all highly enjoyable. There is absolutly something for everyone at Macari.

Macari Vineyards, established in 1995, comprises of 180 acres, containing vineyards, animals, produce, a large green house and even their own compost production area. They pride themselves on practicing sustainable agriculture and employing biodynamic principals. In fact, pride was something that radiated from each of the staff I encountered at the tasting room. And what a tasting room it was. Macari allows visitors to sample the wines, relax with a view of the vineyards and enjoy a selection of cheeses or other edibles. It was odd for me to be visiting them on a quiet rainy April afternoon because I had a tremendous urge to be there when their season was in full swing, like it is now.

On to the Wines...

2007 Macari Chardonnay Estate ($19) – On the nose, this was almost meaty with floral notes and herbs. The palate was structured with good acidity and great balance. (89 points)

2007 Macari Chardonnay Reserve ($23) – This was big and rich on the nose but kept in check with earthy notes followed by apricot and stone. On the palate, it was full-bodied and showed some of the oak on the finish. (89 points)

2009 Macari Sauvignon Blanc "Katherine's Field" ($23) – The nose showed tropical fruits, sour citrus, chalky minerals and that textbook Sauvignon Blanc “cat piss” (I mean that in the best way). On the palate, it showed sour citrus, minerals and a nice concentration of fruit. It finished with a sour note. This wine was very enjoyable. (91 points)

2010 Macari Sauvignon Blanc "Katherine's Field" ($23) – On the nose, I found ripe tropical fruits, citrus and herbs. On the palates, it had a focused concentration of ripe citrus fruits and lots of brisk acidity to keep it fresh and very pleasant. The sour patch finish was long, long, long. This was one of my top 10 wines from my Long Island article on Snooth. (92 points)

2009 Macari Riesling ($30) (Sourced from the finger lakes) – On the nose, I found citrus with a spritz of minerally lime. The palate tasted like a citrus explosion with tart lemon and stone. The finish was long with sour patch and herbs. This is a New York Riesling made from fruit sourced at the Finger Lakes. (88 points)

2010 Macari Riesling ($30) (Sourced from the finger lakes) – The nose showed fresh floral notes and citrus. On the palate, I found hints of butter and lemon. It was softer and sweeter that the 2009 but well structured, as lime and herbs took me through the finish. (89 points)

2010 Macari “Early wine” ($17) (100% Chardonnay) – The nose was floral and fresh with white fruits and lime. It was pleasantly fruity and balanced on the palate with a finish that hinted at this wine’s tiny amount of residual sugar. This would make for a great summer sipper. (88 points)

(NV) Macari Merlot Collina 48 Merlot ($13) – The nose showed red berries, earth and chalk dust. On the palate, this showed a full body, yet it was fresh and focused with red berries, herbs and cedar. (89 points)

(NV) Macari Sette ($19) – The nose showed lots of blackberry. On the palate, I found wild berries and spice. The finish was dry and showed sour berry fruit. (87 points)

2008 Macari Dos Aguas ($27) – The nose showed sweet blue and black berries with spice. It was full-bodied and fruity on the palate. (87 points)

2008 Macari Cabernet Franc ($35) – The nose showed dark berries, spice and cedar. On the palate, I found red fruits and spice with a firm yet juicy structure; a bit vegetal but rich enough to hold its own. (89 points)

2005 Macari Merlot Reserve ($36) – On the nose, I found black cherry, sweet herbal tea, undergrowth and lots of earth. On the palate, this showed a broad full body with masses of ripe berries and spice. The finish was long and fruity. This wine really stood out from the lineup and is further proof that holding North Fork Merlot for later release turns out truly stunning results. This was one of my top 10 wines from my Long Island article on Snooth. (92 points)

2007 Macari "Bergen Road" ($46) – The nose was big and rich with crushed wild berries and hints of vanilla. On the palate, it was luxurious with fresh cherries and spice that filled the senses. The finish was long with cherry and hints of wood. (89 points)

2008 Macari Block E ($40) (Ice wine, 69% Viogier, 31% Pinot Gris) – The nose showed tropical fruits, herbs, nuts and butter. On the palate, it was rich and sweet but ultra fresh and floral with roast nuts, orange peel and spices. The finish lasted over a minute. (91 points)

To visit or purchase Macari wines, check out their website at: Macari Vineyards!

Find Macari wines on: Wine-Searcher!

My trip to the North Fork Long Island, for Snooth, was an eye opening event. Recent vintages have shown what the Long Island wine industry is truly capable of. To read more about recent vintages and the top 10 wines of my tasting, visit Long Island Wines: 10 top picks from the North Fork.