2000 Barolo & Barbaresco Revisited

By: Eric Guido

So we all love to talk about how wrong the critics were with the 2000 vintage of Barolo and Barbaresco. Such a highly touted vintage that drank so well on release, yet that seemed to be all that it was. Now, with 13 years of age on these bottles, we take a glimpse into what they have matured into, and although I wouldn’t recommend aging these in your cellar, most of them are drinking beautifully.

However, to add insult to injury, we decided to add another twist to this tasting by stacking the deck with a number of "modern-style" Baroli. Modern-styled (or Internationally-styled) Barolo has become something of a bad word in Piedmont, with scores of producers now moving away from small French barrels and adding their own large Slovenian casks to their cellars for aging. There was a time when extremely low yields, roto-fermentors and small oak barrels were the mark of a modern producer. Cellars turned from dank caves into marvels of modern technology. The idea was to make a Barolo that was more approachable, younger-drinking and more acceptable to the international palate. The fact is that over the years the terms modern and traditional have become quite blurred. As even the traditionalists realized that there was nothing wrong with clean wine-making and lower yields, some even opting for roto-fermentation, yet sticking to aging in large barrel.

However, back during the 2000 vintage, modern-styled winemaking was still in its heyday. My fear was that the combination of the ripe vintage, higher concentrations and the use of new oak, would result in muddled, over-ripe, over-extracted and completely undrinkable wines; and for the most part, I was wrong. What this proves, for one thing, is that winemaking has more to do with the producer than the vintage. And another important point is that the quality of the fruit can outlast and outshine some of the most aggressive winemaking.

In the end, I wouldn't be buying these wines to put away in the cellar today. Most of them are drinking great now, and the few that need more time only need a few more years to come together. These can provide a lot of enjoyment at this time, and if you see some of the top bottles for a good price, buy them. You won't be disappointed.

On to the Wines:

2000 Michele Chiarlo Barbaresco Asili – The nose was classic and slightly rustic with aromas of cherry, forest floor, earth tones and hints of green stems. On the palate, it was amazingly soft and feminine with red fruits, inner floral notes, and a mineral core. The finish showed drying tannin and red fruits, begging for a few more years in the cellar. (89 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2000 Elio Altare Barolo La Morra – The nose showed lush red fruits, red licorice, dried flowers, intense spice and herbs. On the palate it was soft and enveloping, coating the senses in concentrated red fruits with brisk acidity to keep it fresh, showing ripe cherry and earthy soil tones. It dried out slightly on the finish with notes of dark chocolate and tart cherry. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2000 Paolo Scavino Barolo Riserva Rocche dell'Annunziata – The nose was dark, and brooding with black cherry, cinnamon, spiced oak, saw dust, moist undergrowth and herbs. On the palate, it showed a smooth sheen of oak with tart red fruits, dark chocolate, cedar and wood tannin, which dried the palate. On the palate, a wave of refreshing acidity made the mouth water, leaving only a gentle tug of tannins at the cheek. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2000 Vietti Barolo Lazzarito – The nose was classic with dusty cherry, tobacco, minty herbs, minerals and savory, seared meat. On the palate, it was juicy throughout with notes of strawberry, herbs, a smooth hint of oak and a truly Burgundian feel. The finish turned tart, yet stayed juicy with lingering red fruits and cedar. (92 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2000 Andrea Oberto Barolo Vigneto Rocche – The nose was expressive, rich, yet classic with roses, tart cherry, animal musk, tobacco and hints of spice. On the palate, it was unbelievably silky, yet turned grippy, with red fruits, cedar and a core of minerals driven by fresh acidity. The finish showed its youthful side with hints of drying tannin, saturating red fruits and tobacco clinging to the senses. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2000 Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Vignolo – The nose was intense yet brooding with a mix of red fruit, perfumed floral notes, soil and undergrowth; it was like smelling a bouquet of fresh cut roses, stems and all. On the palate, it was rich yet juicy with black cherry fruit, inner floral tones and herbs. The finish lingered on and on with dark, saturating red fruits. (94 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2000 Elio Grasso Barolo Riserva Rüncot – The nose was beautifully expressive, revealing layer upon layer of its enticing bouquet as it sat in the glass. Notes of black cherry, brown sugar and sweet spice gave way to a dark yet explosive array of mint, ripe strawberry, and sweet, spicy floral tones. On the palate, it was focused, balanced and still youthful, showing sweet ‘n sour cherry, herbs and minerals, which filled the senses. The finish was slightly tart, showing balanced structure and hints of tannin. I can see this wine getting even better with a few years’ time. Beautiful. (95 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

For a deeper look at the 2000 vintage Baroli, check out "2000: Barolo Retrospective" from October 2010.

Portugal: Expand Your Wine Horizon

By: Eric Guido

What a difference a year can make. This time, last year, Portugal meant one thing to me; it meant Vintage Port. It’s a wine I have enjoyed in place of a dessert or for a quick guilty sip. It can last for many decades and makes for a great way to mark special occasions and birth years. But something Port is not is a table wine or a wine that can be easily sipped and enjoyed on a regular basis; it’s simply too rich, too sweet—too hedonistic. Yet it has a valued place in the world of wine and is as branded as Bordeaux. So why look any further, right? Wrong.

If there’s one thing I’ve learned about wine, it’s that a closed mind and palate stunts your growth. You’ve seen those people, such as the Italian wine lover that still drinks Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio. So when the opportunity arose to try a dry table wine from Portugal, I made sure to give it a shot, and I sure am glad that I did.

If you’re imagining another spin on Cabernet and Chardonnay, just in a Portuguese style, stop right there. This isn’t about the usual suspects’ grown in another terroir; this is about obscure and native varieties like Aragonez (or Tempranillo), Alicante Bouschet, Viosinho, Rabigato and Touriga Nacional, which are heavily relied upon in blending for Port. They produce beautifully fragrant wines with unique aromas and exciting textures, complemented with ripe fruit that fills the palate and exceptional balance and structure.

Remember, this isn’t a new, emerging viticultural area. This is a country that has been producing fine wine since the days of the Roman Empire. The fact is that what we’ve always seen as a country devoted to the production of Port is in reality a region that’s producing exceptional wine of many styles, of which we have only recently been introduced to. Listed below are two wines that I just had the pleasure to taste, and both are worth your attention. Also, these are just in time for the Spring season. The Dourum, a white blend, would make a great accompaniment to seafood salad, scallops or sushi, and the Alente Riserva is a versatile red that would do well against hearty red meats, rich chicken dishes and a showstopper at a barbeque.

On to the wines:

2006 Adega do Monte Branco Vinho Regional Alentejano Alente Reserva - The nose showed a mix of ripe wild berries and sweet spice, with hints of ginger, leather, dusty earth and floral violet tones. On the palate, it was medium-bodied and soft with a zesty personality, showing notes of blue and blackberries with pleasant spice tones and inner floral notes. It leaves a beautiful floral-blueberry flavor on the finish that lingers long. (92 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2011 Dourum Douro Tons de Duorum - The wine showed the color of white gold in the glass. On the nose, I found a mix of ripe peach and pineapple with hints of lime, sea breeze and minerals. It was immediately pleasing and soft on the palate with ripe pit fruits, green apple and brisk acidity, which kept it lively and refreshing. Tart green apple and minerals last through the fresh, crisp finish. (89 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Fontodi: Modern Touch, Traditional Feel

By Eric Guido

With the start of each new year comes the myriad of Italian wine tastings that have become the highlight of these early winter months. Each year, I find myself tasting the new releases of all my favorite wines. This year, one winery that has truly stood out among the rest for its entire portfolio, it's the Tuscan property of Fontodi.

I have loved these wines in the past, often in their more mature states, yet two years ago I was left breathless by the youthful 2007 Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve Colli della Toscana. From top to bottom, they are highly enjoyable wines that show tremendous relative value. However, this year, the entire range was something to be marveled at. The entry-level Chianti Classico is a wine that every lover of Italian wine should be enjoying today, while the Riserva level Vigna del Sorbo soared in its youthfulness, yet begged for time in the cellar; and the Flaccianello, while nothing like the 2007 is graceful, youthful and full of potential.

This organic estate is located in the heart of the Chianti Classico region, just south of the town of Panzano. Using a gravity-fed cellar and focused on maintaining the natural integrity of the grapes, Fontodi turns out beautiful Sangiovese-based wines with a modern touch. However, don’t write these off as modern wines, as the 2009 Flaccianello proves in spades. With less dependency on new oak, this wine shines like never before. If you haven’t experienced them before, now is the time, and if you have the chance to taste a mature Vigna del Sorbo, do not pass it up, as these are regal wines of the highest caliber.

2009 Fontodi Chianti Classico – The nose showed cherry sauce with Tuscan dust, spicy notes, hints of mushroom and citrus. On the palate, it was focused with refined red fruits and inner floral notes. The finish was clean with pure red fruits and hints of structure. This was easily one of the best entry-level Chianti I’ve tasted this year. (91 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2009 Fontodi Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo – The nose showed red berries, floral notes, herbs and a slight hint of vanilla. On the palate, I found tart red berries with dusty spices and herbal notes leading to a structured finish with fine grain tannins. This was a great young expression of Vigna del Sorbo. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2009 Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT – The nose was beautiful, showing intense dark fruits, woodsy and earthy notes with berries and flowers. On the palate, it was soft and balanced with ripe berry fruits and violets on a medium, balanced body that walked the tightrope between richness and cleansing acidity. The structured finish was long and filled with inner floral notes. (94 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Visit the Fontodi Website!