Tuscany '97 versus '99

Go to your local wine store and ask, “What’s the best Tuscan vintage of the nineties?” The answer you will almost always receive is ‘97, which is a shame because ‘97 never lived up to the hype. What ‘97 did stand for was a turning point in Tuscan winemaking. It was a time when most producers had made major changes in their viticulture, and winemaking practices literally cleaned up the wine coming out of Tuscany. There were many producers that were making very good wine before ’97, but ’97 marked a movement in quality across the entire spectrum. The days of a typical Chianti reeking of dirty barrels and tasting either chunky or diluted had ended.

It was with this in mind that I recently attended a ’97 versus ’99 Sangiovese tasting. I was positive that I already knew what the outcome would be. However, I did keep an open mind, because if there’s one rule that any wine lover should always live by, it’s that it’s better to buy the producer over the vintage--meaning that the best producers will often find a way to make great wine, even in lesser vintages.

So with all my preconceptions tossed to the wind, I began to taste. What did I find? If I want to paint broad strokes, what I expected to find, and did, is that the ’97s were far more advanced than the ‘99s with most of the ‘99s only just starting to enter their drinking windows. However, what I didn’t expect was how much I truly enjoyed the ’97 Gagliole and Castellare di Castellina (and the Fontalloro was no slouch either). This tasting turned from a battle of supremacy into something much more; a study of vintage characteristics and a truly enjoyable tasting.

The 1999 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Fontalloro, ended up as my highest-scoring wine. However, if I wanted to drink something tonight, the 1997 Castellare di Castellina I Sodi di San Niccolò was simply spellbinding.

On to the notes:

Fattoria Viticcio

1997 Fattoria Viticcio Prunaio Toscana IGT – The nose was musty, and showed black cherry, minerals, plum and cinnamon. It was rich and ripe on the palate with intense cranberry, sweat spice, granny smith apple and a hint of perceptible heat. The finish showed cranberry but was marred with searing acidity. In the end, this bottle may have been slightly corked. (86 points)

1999 Fattoria Viticcio Prunaio Toscana IGT – The nose showed crushed red berries, licorice, mountain herbs and chalky minerals. On the palate, it was focused and elegant with blackberries and spice, followed by hints of lingering structure. The finish was long with sour red fruits. (90 points)

Fattoria di Fèlsina

Year in and out, Felsina continues to show that they can make great wines in almost any vintage. Considering that today’s price point of Fontalloro is still in the $40-$45 range, it is easily one of the best values in age-able wine.

1997 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Fontalloro – The nose showed undergrowth, old library book, animal musk and berry tartlet. On the palate it was lively with balanced acidity showing dark red fruits, licorice and spices. The finish was long and staying with hints of structure. It was highly enjoyable and somehow warmer and furrier than the ‘99. (90 points)

1999 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Fontalloro - The nose showed plums, strawberry jam and floral stems. On the palate, I found leaner fruit than the ’97 yet it was focused and intense on its own with tart red berries and a hint of pepper and spice. The finish was staying with intense red fruits and mouth-coating tannins. The fruit was leaner yet still more intense that the ’97 with superb balance and many years of development in store. (94 points)

Gagliole

In the case of Gagliole, these were not the same bottle from two different vintages. Here, the ’97 was 90% Sangiovese with an addition of 10% Cabernet. In the end, the ’97 won out, but it was likely because of the extreme oak that showed through in the ’99.

1997 Gagliole Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT (10% Cabernet) – The ever-changing nose showed crushed fall leaves, herbal tea, brown sugar, musk, and strawberry jam. On the palate, it was velvety with sweet dark red fruits, a hint of vanilla and dark wood tones with fresh acidity keeping it exciting. The finish showed clean, sour red fruits. (92 points)

1999 Gagliole Pecchia Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT (100% Sangiovese) – On the nose, it came off as murky with dried red fruits, herbal tea, minerals, undergrowth and earth. On the palate, it was rich with an airy lift, intense red fruits, and charred woods, yet it was unbalanced and cloying. The finish was long with sour, bitter red fruits. (87 points)

Castellare di Castellina

This was the first chance I had to taste a Castellina I Sodi San Niccolò with any age on it, and let me just say, WOW! These were both beautiful and made a good case for putting some younger vintages away in the cellar.

1997 Castellare di Castellina I Sodi di San Niccolò Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT – On the nose, I found dark wild berries, sweet spice, coffee grinds, cherry pipe smoke, and hints of undergrowth and acetone. On the palate, it was rich and ripe, yet still coloring within the lines, with black cherry, sweetened sun tea and brisk acidity that gave it a juicy and almost electric presence. The long finish showed jammy red fruits, which was balanced by remnants of mouthwatering acidity. (93 points)

1999 Castellare di Castellina I Sodi di San Niccolò Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT – On the classically-styled nose, I found tart red fruits, floral notes, barnyard and herbs. On the palate, it was velvety and balanced with fresh focused red fruits, cedar and soft herbal notes, yet it remained fresh and pulsing throughout. The finish showed pure spicy red fruits. (92 points)

San Giusto a Rentennano

If you fashion yourself an Italophile, than there’s a good chance that you’ve heard of the 1990 Percarlo, a truly epic wine. It’s unfortunate that the ’97 didn’t come close to expectations but the ’99 was spellbinding, and will easily continue to age. This is a wine to buy if the chance arises.

1997 San Giusto a Rentennano Percarlo Toscana IGT – On the nose, I found sweet floral notes with cinnamon and tarragon. On the palate, it was balanced and juicy with ripe wild berries and sweet spices. Wood tannins began to build toward the finish and took over. The finish was long yet tannic with blackberry and herbal notes. (88 points)

1999 San Giusto a Rentennano Percarlo Toscana IGT – The nose was elegant and finessed, showing sweet spices, rich red fruits, woodland notes, a hint of black licorice. On the palate, it showed impressive weight, yet was juicy and fun with lots of pure red berry fruits, cedar and herbs. The finish was pure and clean with staying tannin wrapped dried red fruits. (94 points)

Marchesi Mazzei Castello di Fonterutoli

The Siepi is a wine I’ve often seen and never tasted. With a healthy dose of Merlot, these wines take on a completely unique profile from the others in the tasting.

1997 Marchesi Mazzei Castello di Fonterutoli Siepi Toscana IGT – On the nose I founds intense savory notes of sautéed onion and curry. Notes of dried raspberry were found with coaxing as the nose settled with time. On the palate, it was velvety and dark with earthy red and black fruits, as it turned soft and juicy yet lacked depth. Masses of dry tannin were found on the finish, yet there was still a solid core of fruit. (91 points)

1999 Marchesi Mazzei Castello di Fonterutoli Siepi Toscana IGT – The nose was dark and mysterious, showing a mix of sweet berries, spice, and cedar. On the palate, it was soft with dark red fruits, herbal tea and zesty acidity but a little one-dimensional. The finish was medium-long with lingering red fruits. (90 points)

The Rundown

1997 Castellare di Castellina I Sodi di San Niccolò – (93 points)
1997 Gagliole Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT – (92 points)
1997 Marchesi Mazzei Castello di Fonterutoli Siepi IGT – (91 points)
1997 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Fontalloro – (90 points)
1997 San Giusto a Rentennano Percarlo Toscana IGT – (88 points)
1997 Fattoria Viticcio Prunaio Toscana IGT – (86 points)

1999 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Fontalloro - (94 points)
1999 San Giusto a Rentennano Percarlo Toscana IGT – (94 points)
1999 Castellare di Castellina I Sodi di San Niccolò – (92 points)
1999 Marchesi Mazzei Castello di Fonterutoli Siepi IGT – (90 points)
1999 Fattoria Viticcio Prunaio Toscana IGT – (90 points)
1999 Gagliole Pecchia Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT – (87 points)

1979: Barolo Retrospective

Drink ‘em if you got ‘em

Sometimes you just have to let go of the ghost. For years I’ve read about the ’79 Barolo vintage being the underdog that was foreshadowed by the towering ’78s. Many merchants have used this angle when offering this vintage to me. However, from my most recent tasting of ’79 Barolo, I think it’s time that we stop buying these and start drinking them.

The Roagna Barbaresco
Crichet Pajé. One of the strangest
performances of the night.

It’s unfortunate, but the majority of the bottles tasted have come as far as they can and are simply tired and dried out. The hallmark acidity of this vintage now rears its ugly head as the fruit fades, turns lean and penetrating flavors of citrus rind and pith coat the palate. Some of these were highly enjoyable, but I won’t be adding them to my cellar.

My favorites on this night were the Breze and Vietti Briacca. Both were formidable wines that have seen better days yet are fading with grace. In the end, if you own ’79 Barolo, you don’t need to run to the cellar right this minute, but it’s certainly time to consider drinking these wines.

On to the wines:

1979 Francesco Pittatore Barolo Ponte Rocca Brunate – The nose showed wet tobacco, sweet woodland notes with vibrant red berry and a hint of mint. On the palate, it was broad yet vibrant and light on its feet, showing soil covered red fruits and inner aromas of mushroom. The finish was long and feminine with staying red berry fruit and a hint of remaining structure. (90 points)

1979 Azienda Bricco Rocche (Ceretto) Barolo Brunate – The nose showed animal musk, dark fruits, crushed leaves, and intense floral notes. On the palate, it was rustic with lean dried fruits that turned juicy and were joined by notes of savory broth. This was still highly enjoyable, but with no upside potential, it should be drunk now. (87 points)

1979 Marcarini La Serra – On the nose, I found sweet beefy notes, spice, saline minerals and a mixture of floral, soil and undergrowth. On the palate, it was mouth-filling, showing citrus rinds and herbal tea leaf. The finish showed lots of acidity and citrus notes. (89 points)

1979 Cordero di Montezemolo Barolo Monfalletto – On the nose, I found a whiff of old library book, crushed cherry, tamarind and potpourri. On the palate, it was lean with vibrant acidity and rustic dried cherry fruits. The finish was long with mouth-coating fruit and inner aromas of medicinal herbs. (87 points)

1979 Vietti Barolo Briacca – The nose was intense with dark ripe strawberry, dried flowers, and medicinal herbs. On the palate, it was feminine and balanced with finessed, lean red fruit and citrus rinds. The finish was long and fresh showing sour berries. (91 points)

1979 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Rocche dei Brovia – The nose showed sweet, ripe red fruits, undergrowth and mushroom. On the palate, inner floral and undergrowth notes dominated, as this wines broad yet elegant texture opened up to reveal dark red fruits, both sweet and sour with vibrant acidity. (89 points)

1979 Azienda Bricco Rocche (Ceretto) Barolo Prapò – The nose was dark with rich red fruit, buttery tartlet crust, and herbs. On the palate, it was light on its feet and finessed, showing juicy red berries but turning chunky toward the finish and fading quickly. (85 points)

1979 Roagna Barbaresco Crichet Pajé – The nose showed horseradish, soil, and herbs. On the palate, it was vegetal, with pepper, herbs, citrus rinds and lots of acidity. The vegetal notes continued on the finish. It was certainly an interesting wine but honestly not enjoyable to drink. (80 points)

1979 Giacomo Brezza Figli Barolo Sarmassa e Castellero – The classically-styled nose showed tar, rose water, a slight spice, lots of floral notes and red berries. On the palate, it was rich and full with soft dried cherry fruit that turned juicy toward the close. This wine was easygoing on the palate and gorgeous on the nose. (91 points)

1979 Cantina Mascarello Barolo – On the nose, I found tangy, spicy floral notes, old library book and lean red berries. On the palate, intense but overripe fruit flooded the senses but dropped off quickly to reveal drying and mouth-puckering tannin. (84 points)

The Italian Wine Masters: 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

It was obvious at this year’s Italian Wine Masters event that many attendees were there to taste the new 2007 Brunello vintage. However, in this humble taster’s opinion, it didn’t take long for the 2006 Brunello Riservas to steal the show.

Last year, the 2006 Brunello di Montalcino normale were firm and structured with a core of intense fruit restrained within. In other words, they were full of potential. However, it’s amazing to me what the same producers can accomplish with the extra year of aging that qualifies the wines for Riserva status.

Often, a Riserva will come from a single vineyard or a special parcel within the same vineyard as the normale bottle. Sometimes it’s just those few casks in the cellar that demand special attention. In the end, whether that extra year is spent in barrel or bottle, I find Brunello Riservas to be the bottles I choose for my cellar and well worth the extra tariff.

Comparing these wines to the 2007 vintage is like comparing apples to oranges. The ’06 Riservas have all the structure and pent up intensity as the regular bottles, but with rich, darker tones that will flesh out into layers to be peeled back through decades in your cellar.

I know it can be hard to look back when a new vintage hits the shelf. However, I believe that any serious lover of Brunello should be considering the ’06 Riservas for their cellar.

On to the notes:

2006 Capanna Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose showed dark, sweet red berries, herbs, cedar and an airy pine nettle note. On the palate, it was full, velvety and balanced with ripe red berries and spice against a firm lurking structure. The finish was long with mouth-coating tannin showing at the close. It was a total joy to drink and a bottle that has already found its way into my cellar. (96 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2006 Tenuta Oliveto Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose of the 2006 Oliveto Brunello Riserva was elegant, showing black cherry, candle wax and floral notes, with dark chocolate and herbs. On the palate, it was smooth and balanced with red fruits and spice that continued to build with time in the glass. The finish was long with sweet spices and silky tannins. (95 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2006 Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose was intense; in a word, sexy, as sweet red berries, dark chocolate and spice filled the senses. On the palate, it was structured yet still showed masses of sweet, spiced red fruits, earth and soil tones. The finish was long and staying with inner floral notes. (94 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2006 Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose showed dark, ripe red berries, soil and herbals, along with a sweet spicy sugar note. On the palate, it was velvety smooth with deep red fruits, ripe yet fine with underlying structure that dominated the finish and promised many years of development. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2006 Pertimali (LivioSassetti) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose showed dark red fruits and cedar box. On the palate, it was velvety with pure ripe red berries and earth. It was balanced to the core and only showed its refined structure in its tannic finish. (92 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2006 Pian Delle Vigne (Antinori) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Ferrovia – The nose showed black cherries with fresh-turned soil and cedar notes. It was expansive on the palate and filled the senses with tart fruits that turned to rough, drying tannins, which lasted into the finish. (91 points) Find it one Wine-Searcher!

2006 Fattoria dei Barbi (Colombini) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose showed red berries with soil and floral notes. On the palate, I found lean red fruits and herbs with a fine tannic structure that dominated the finish. This wine will need to be buried in the cellar for at least another ten years before it really starts to shine. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

2006 Donatella Brunello di Montalcino Riserva – The nose showed red berries with herbs and bread crusts. On the palate, it was angular with sour red fruits and a fine structure. The finish was medium in length and pleasant, yet this bottle simply didn’t deliver the goods. (88 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!