The Master of Traditional Barolo: Giuseppe Rinaldi History & Retrospective Tasting

From The Cellar Table @Morrellwine

Giuseppe Rinaldi is, without a doubt, one of the most exciting producers in Barolo today. Giuseppe, known locally as Beppe, took control of the family winery in 1992 after the death of his father, Battista. Beppe was a veterinarian by trade, yet taught the principals and methodologies of creating traditionally-styled Barolo from his father. With five generations of grape-growing and winemaking experience in the family, Giuseppe Rinaldi wines were already considered among one the greatest expressions of Barolo, long before Beppe took over the estate.

His father, Battista Rinaldi, a serious man and trained enologist, took over the winery back in 1947. With family holdings in Brunate, Le Coste and Ravera, he brought the Rinaldi name to eminence. Giuseppe RInaldi Barolo Brunate Riserva 1985During this time, he also purchased their parcel in Cannubi San Lorenzo, and from these four vineyards, created two different Barolo. A straight Barolo, which was blended for balance from a mix of the family vineyards, and a single-vineyard Brunate, or Brunate Riserva. It was the Brunate Riserva, which was said to be made only in the greatest vintages and aged for ten years prior to release (think Giacomo Conterno Monfortino), that is a legend to this day.

In 1992, when Beppe took the reins at Giuseppe Rinaldi, the only real change that was made was to remove the Brunate from the winery’s portfolio and only make two blended Barolo. And so, Brunate – Le Coste and Cannubi San Lorenzo – Ravera was born. It was Beppe’s belief, in the true traditional style, that the greatest heights to which Barolo could reach could only come through blending. Although this was not a popular belief during the ‘90s, as the modern movement swept through Piedmont, Beppe held fast and refused to change.

At the time, the world wanted large-scaled, dark Barolo that was inflected with new oak and could be enjoyed younger, which was everything that a Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo was not. In turn, Beppe Rinaldi was grouped together with Bartolo Mascarello and Teobaldo Cappellano, as the last of old-time traditionalists.

It’s because of this that, as the popularity of Barolo swept across the globe and prices climbed, Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo remained heavily unaffected. Yet, behind the media hype and a new generation of Barolo drinkers who had never experienced the greatest traditionally-style wines, were the long-time collectors who knew better. Giuseppe Rinaldi became one of the greatest under-the-radar producers of the late nineties and early two-thousands. I still recall a time, not so long ago, when a Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo would only cost me $55.

So what happened? To a large degree, tastes changed. However, what was an even larger influence on the public was Italian wine writer Antonio Galloni of Vinous Media, who was an avid fan of traditional Barolo and would regularly seek out and taste the great wines of the past century. As Antonio’s following grew, and from the platform of The Wine Advocate, the public began to experiment, and they liked what they found.

Things have changed quite a bit in the last eight years. Today, the names Bartolo Mascarello, Teobaldo Cappellano, Giacomo Conterno and Giuseppe “Beppe” Rinaldi are on the minds of Barolo collectors around the world. Each are traded at a premium and often allocated to partial case quantities at the retail level. However, through all of this, very little has changed at Giuseppe Rinaldi.

Chemicals are never used in the vineyards, with only occasional manure to fertilize and a limited amount of copper and sulfur. In the winery, Beppe uses spontaneous fermentation with wild yeast, which takes place in neutral wooden vats, and then ages in large Slavonian cask. Beppe learned from his father, who learned from his father before him, and he sees nothing wrong with keeping things just the way they were.

The only change we see today is one that has been enforced by the Barolo consortium, and that is the new MGA labeling laws, which has forced producers to only list one vineyard on a bottle of Barolo, or be left to list no vineyard designation at all. But there is a silver lining, in that a producer can list a vineyard name on a label, yet still add up to 15% of another vineyard to the wine (don’t try to make sense of this; it is Italy). And so, Brunate – Le Coste has now been name Brunate only, with the addition of 15% Le Coste added. Although this is a change from (around) 40% added in the past, it still allows Beppe to blend. What’s more, Cannubi San Lorenzo, has become Tre Tine, with the addition of the Le Coste juice that was once used for Brunate. With the 2010 vintage and with the new rules in place, I can say with absolute confidence that Giuseppe Rinaldi continues to make two of the greatest Barolo in Italy today.

You can imagine that when the time came to participate in a Giuseppe Rinaldi vertical tasting, everyone involved was ecstatic. The vintages assembled represented not only Beppe’s amazing wines from the nineties and beyond, but also a duo of magical Barolo that were created by his Father.

Before digging into the notes and the scores, I think it’s important to list a few of my general impressions, because I believe that they give good insights to the differences between Giuseppe Rinaldi and your average Barolo.

Firstly, we often hear the term “buy the producer, not the vintage,” and this has never been more evident as it was at this tasting. The 2003 Brunate – Le Coste (a hot year that has proven to be very disappointing across the region) was absolutely gorgeous. It was vibrant with grip, drive and freshness to the fruit that is unheard of for the vintage.

The 2007 Brunate – Le Coste (another ripe year that has been aging unevenly for many Barolo) was epic. In fact, had it not been immediately followed by the classically-structured 2008, I may have thought it to be the best of the Brunate – Le Coste post the 1999 vintage. I believe this is a great example of Beppe’s belief in blending different vineyards for balance.

Second, I find it amazing how the fruit and floral profile of Giuseppe Rinaldi is so different from other Barolo. The fruit here is dark, accentuated by minerals, and there is often a violet floral note, especially in the Brunate – Le Coste. It’s quite beautiful.

Third, my personal belief is that the Brunate – Le Coste is “The” wine of Giuseppe Rinaldi. Where each example of Cannubi San Lorenzo – Ravara was gorgeous, and I would never pass up an opportunity to taste, there’s simply something about the classic structure and zesty acidity of Brunate – Le Coste that drives me wild.

For my tasting notes, and many more photos, Check out The Cellar Table!

Dueling Blind Barolo Vintages

Article and Tasting Notes by Eric Guido

2001 & 1999 Barolo
Two classic vintages, both in need of time, yet just starting to show their early maturity. Why not put 2001 against 1999 in a blind tasting? We all have our preconceptions, which in some cases were shattered as we unveiled these wines. What’s more, recent reports on 2001 have called it uneven in its maturity, and some have raised the question of if it will go on to be considered a great vintage down the road.

On thing this tasting certainly proved is that there should be no fear that 2001 Barolo from the top producers will go on to be prolific, classic wines. Of course, as noted, these are the top wines of any vintage and finding a reference point here can be difficult. In fact, I don’t recall the last time I saw such a collection of the who’s who in Piedmont. If you’re looking to put something special in the cellar, you can’t go wrong here.

As for 99’s, it’s all been recently said. A retrospective tasting from two years ago put me on the hunt to acquire as much ’99 Barolo as possible. There have been naysayers, yet as time goes by, and more collectors and critics taste these wines, it is becoming apparent that 1999 will go down as one of the top vintages of the nineties—it may even surpass 1996 one day. What I truly love about these wines is their rich, ripe character contrasted by firm classic tannin structure. I taste a ’99 Barolo, even in this young stage, and receive so much satisfaction from not only its current state, but also the imagining of what it will one day become. These are beautiful wines worthy of our cellars.

Flight 1: This was a wonderful performance from the 2001 Bartolo, a wine that I have always been weary of. Inconsistency in this wine’s history, confirmed in the tasting notes of many other writers, leads me to believe an experience like the one below is in no way guaranteed. I couldn’t call out the producer in this flight, but I was sure I guessed the vintages right from their performances. Imagine my surprise to find the results were the exact opposite of my expectations.

2001 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo – The nose was classic, showing dusty cherry, cedar, crushed fall leaves moist earth and dried spice. On the palate, it was lean on entry with tart cherry and inner floral tones yet grew richer as it coated the senses with noble tannin. The finish was youthful with an acid, tannin tug across the palate, accentuated by lingering notes of dry red fruit, minerals and soil tones. Beautiful. (94 Points) Find it on: Wine-searcher!

1999 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo – The nose was dark and inviting with black cherry, cranberry, hints of menthol and dusty, dark earth tones. Tart red berries clenched the palate in a tense, tightly wound expression of Nebbiolo, along with notes of cinnamon and inner floral tones. Tannin held the palate firm on the finish, with tart berry lingering long, yet drying out the senses. (92 points) Find it on: Wine-searcher!

Flight 2: For me, the most striking thing about this flight was how completely different the 2001 Ca d’Morissio was from the straight 2001 Monprivato. However, they were both equally enjoyable, for completely different reasons.

2001 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Ca d'Morissio Riserva Monprivato – The 2001 Ca d'Morissio was a dark beast of a wine, with intense crushed raspberry, herbs, wood smoke, raw beef and soil laden minerals. On the palate, it was rich yet with a truly classic feel. Tart cherry and autumnal spices penetrated the senses, yet held firm, restrained—clenched. On the finish, lingering dark-red tart berry fruit and inner floral notes lasted long against its formidable structure. (94 points) Find it on: Wine-searcher!

2001 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato – The nose was striking in its expression of bright, ripe red fruit, rosy floral tones, cinnamon and a lifting note of menthol. On the palate, it showed as a classic mid-weight Barolo, with soft yet focused red fruit and mineral tones. Tannin coated the senses throughout the finish, yet that red berry note continued to ring true. It would seem that there are many years of development ahead for this wine. (93 points) Find it on: Wine-searcher!

1999 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato – The nose was beautiful, with dark, spiced cherry sauce, dusty minerals and a hint of VA. Yet on the palate, this wine took a downturn for me, as it was tight, ungiving and seeming almost diluted. The finish showed hints of red fruit yet remained unyielding. Maybe this was a bad bottle, yet others at the tasting seemed less bothered by its performance. (N/A) Find it on: Wine-searcher!

Flight 3: The 1999 Brunate Le Coste was a game changer within this tasting and really made me stop and think. The taster next to me called this flight as G. Rinaldi only moments before I was about to come to the same conclusion. They were both unique and beautiful wines.

1999 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate Le Coste – The nose was exotic and dark, inciting excitement over reaching deeper into the glass as ripe black cherry, cinnamon spice, sweet balsamic tones and a hint of mint created a gorgeous bouquet. On the palate, it was dark, ripe, intense, juicy—lovely. Showing dark red fruit, accentuated by exotic spice and dried floral notes with a classic tug of Nebbiolo tannin. The finish was long with dried fruits, yet youthful and restrained. There are many years of development ahead of this wine; I only wish I had some in the cellar. (95 points) Find it on: Wine-searcher!

2001 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate Le Coste – Spiced cherry, licorice and sweet rosey floral notes make up the bouquet of the 2001 Brunate Le Coste. On the palate, it is still tightly wound in its structure, yet showing intense tart black cherry fruit and savory herbs. The finish was tight as a drum, youthful yet satisfying as the fruit clung to the center-palate. (92 points) Find it on Wine-searcher!

Flight 4: I was very happy to be able to call this flight as Giacomo Conterno Cascina Francia, although I did mistake the vintages. They were both beautiful, classic wines in need of considerable time in the cellar. I will say, that if you wanted to cellar one wine from this tasting, over the long term, the ’99 Giacomo Conterno Cascina Francia would be my pick.

1999 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia – The nose was dark and enticing with an exotic twist and all the iron, mineral-laden Serralunga character you could ever hope for. A mix of ripe strawberry, brown sugar, orange peel, tea leafs, iron and rich dark soil tones formed the bouquet. On the palate, it was firm yet crystalline focused, showing dried red fruits, dark soil tones, and a hint of grapefruit. Tannin continued to build throughout the finish nearly masking its tightly coiled fruit and permeating notes of dried florals and fall leaves. It was an unbelievably beautiful wine. (96 points) Find it on: Wine-searcher!

2001 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia – Even darker and richer than the ’99, the nose on the 2001 Cascina Francia pulled me in, showing red berry, moist black soil, floral rose, rosemary and minerals. On the palate, it was youthfully lean with sour red fruit, yet gained momentum and focus as ripe strawberry developed along with inner floral notes and savory spice. The finish continued to impress with its saturating red fruits, inner floral tones and lingering minerals yet remained clenched in need of more time in the cellar. (94 points) Find it on: Wine-searcher!

Flight 5: This flight was a total mystery to me. Giacosa has a way of throwing me for a loop, especially in a blind format. As such, I have stayed with my initial impressions with these tasting notes to avoid any sway the labels may have had after the unveiling.

1999 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba – The nose was rich and intense with dark red fruits, cinnamon, cedar, and hints of herbs. On the palate, red berry fruit played a sweet and sour act on the senses, while inner floral and tobacco notes completed the experience. Tannin shut down the finish, allowing only a hint of red berry fruit to linger. (93 points) Find it on: Wine-searcher!

2001 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba – The nose was earthy and somewhat vegetal with tart red berry, sweet peas, and parchment. With time the fruit became sweeter and dark, yet a formidable earthiness remained. On the palate, it was lean showing tart red berry and spice, which lingered throughout the finish with stern structural components tugging at the cheeks. (90 points) Find it on: Wine-searcher!

Flight 6: I was very happy to correctly guess the first wine as the ’99 Giacosa Le Rocche del Falletto; what I didn’t realize is that the second wine was the exact same thing—ouch! (Originally there were three wines in this flight.) Going back to my notes, they were extremely similar; I’m guessing it was probably differences in conditions of the bottles and time of double-decant, which may explain the slight differences. I went with my first tasting note, as I believe it was the best representation of the wine.

1999 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Le Rocche del Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba – The nose was all at once intense, yet elegant and truly radiant. A bouquet of dark red fruits, plum, rosy florals, dusty spice and minerals wafted up from the glass without any coaxing. On the palate, it opened with bitter cherry, yet fleshed out turning riper and softer with a savory meatiness, dry spice, saline minerals and inner floral tones. The finish was tight yet focused with red fruit, cinnamon and gorgeous autumnal character. (97 points) Find it on: Wine-searcher!

2001 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Le Rocche del Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba – The nose showed a ripe mix of crushed berries, dry spice, menthol, leather and hints of herbs in a dark, warm and inviting bouquet. On the palate, it started youthfully lean with tart cherry, gaining mass and riper character as it wrapped around the senses. A woody balsamic note lingered long with sweet exotic spice and violet floral tones. The finish was the epitome of dried flowers and fruit with dry spice lingering long. (98 points) Find it on: Wine-searcher!

It was a tasting of epic proportions!

Check out: The Fine Wine Geek, for more notes and photos.

In closing, I would be remiss not to mention the excellent service and location provided for this tasting by New York Vintners. New York Vintners is a specialty wine shop in Downtown Manhattan, which appears small upon entry, yet as you pass behind a curtain separating the wine selection from the rest of the store, you come to realize that this is much more than a simple retail location.

New York Vintners has a full kitchen with tasting table within sight. As well as two floors below where they hold educational classes, their wine cellar, and a cellar tasting room (seen in the photo). The food, prepared by Chef Ryan Smith, was a perfect companion to help us through tasting these youthful wines. It was truly a culmination of vinous and culinary perfection.

1979: Barolo Retrospective

Drink ‘em if you got ‘em

Sometimes you just have to let go of the ghost. For years I’ve read about the ’79 Barolo vintage being the underdog that was foreshadowed by the towering ’78s. Many merchants have used this angle when offering this vintage to me. However, from my most recent tasting of ’79 Barolo, I think it’s time that we stop buying these and start drinking them.

The Roagna Barbaresco
Crichet Pajé. One of the strangest
performances of the night.

It’s unfortunate, but the majority of the bottles tasted have come as far as they can and are simply tired and dried out. The hallmark acidity of this vintage now rears its ugly head as the fruit fades, turns lean and penetrating flavors of citrus rind and pith coat the palate. Some of these were highly enjoyable, but I won’t be adding them to my cellar.

My favorites on this night were the Breze and Vietti Briacca. Both were formidable wines that have seen better days yet are fading with grace. In the end, if you own ’79 Barolo, you don’t need to run to the cellar right this minute, but it’s certainly time to consider drinking these wines.

On to the wines:

1979 Francesco Pittatore Barolo Ponte Rocca Brunate – The nose showed wet tobacco, sweet woodland notes with vibrant red berry and a hint of mint. On the palate, it was broad yet vibrant and light on its feet, showing soil covered red fruits and inner aromas of mushroom. The finish was long and feminine with staying red berry fruit and a hint of remaining structure. (90 points)

1979 Azienda Bricco Rocche (Ceretto) Barolo Brunate – The nose showed animal musk, dark fruits, crushed leaves, and intense floral notes. On the palate, it was rustic with lean dried fruits that turned juicy and were joined by notes of savory broth. This was still highly enjoyable, but with no upside potential, it should be drunk now. (87 points)

1979 Marcarini La Serra – On the nose, I found sweet beefy notes, spice, saline minerals and a mixture of floral, soil and undergrowth. On the palate, it was mouth-filling, showing citrus rinds and herbal tea leaf. The finish showed lots of acidity and citrus notes. (89 points)

1979 Cordero di Montezemolo Barolo Monfalletto – On the nose, I found a whiff of old library book, crushed cherry, tamarind and potpourri. On the palate, it was lean with vibrant acidity and rustic dried cherry fruits. The finish was long with mouth-coating fruit and inner aromas of medicinal herbs. (87 points)

1979 Vietti Barolo Briacca – The nose was intense with dark ripe strawberry, dried flowers, and medicinal herbs. On the palate, it was feminine and balanced with finessed, lean red fruit and citrus rinds. The finish was long and fresh showing sour berries. (91 points)

1979 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Rocche dei Brovia – The nose showed sweet, ripe red fruits, undergrowth and mushroom. On the palate, inner floral and undergrowth notes dominated, as this wines broad yet elegant texture opened up to reveal dark red fruits, both sweet and sour with vibrant acidity. (89 points)

1979 Azienda Bricco Rocche (Ceretto) Barolo Prapò – The nose was dark with rich red fruit, buttery tartlet crust, and herbs. On the palate, it was light on its feet and finessed, showing juicy red berries but turning chunky toward the finish and fading quickly. (85 points)

1979 Roagna Barbaresco Crichet Pajé – The nose showed horseradish, soil, and herbs. On the palate, it was vegetal, with pepper, herbs, citrus rinds and lots of acidity. The vegetal notes continued on the finish. It was certainly an interesting wine but honestly not enjoyable to drink. (80 points)

1979 Giacomo Brezza Figli Barolo Sarmassa e Castellero – The classically-styled nose showed tar, rose water, a slight spice, lots of floral notes and red berries. On the palate, it was rich and full with soft dried cherry fruit that turned juicy toward the close. This wine was easygoing on the palate and gorgeous on the nose. (91 points)

1979 Cantina Mascarello Barolo – On the nose, I found tangy, spicy floral notes, old library book and lean red berries. On the palate, intense but overripe fruit flooded the senses but dropped off quickly to reveal drying and mouth-puckering tannin. (84 points)

Marcarini Barolo: The Secret Is Out

A bottle I would have
loved to buy upon release.

There was a time when Barolo was cheap, at least by today’s standards. The escalation of Barolo prices was not just the result of inflation. The fact is that there was a time when the wonders of Barolo were only known to a small group of in-the-know wine lovers. Those lucky few built cellars full of some of today’s most collectible wines, and they did it with far less than what you need to stay in the game today.

Nov. 30th 2003 issue
of Wine Spectator

Much of this is due to the growth in popularity during the nineties and Wine Spectator declaring the 2000 vintage of Barolo, “Perfect.” The hype over the vintage in 2000 has now been shown to be unjustified, but the damage was done and the secret was out; Piedmont is producing some of the worlds most remarkable, ageworthy and collectible wines.

However, through all of this, there have been a small number of producers whose wines managed to fly under the radar, and with it, their prices remain very fair. Over time, the dividing line between quality and value has widened, but the conscientious wine lover can still find cellar-worthy, top notch Barolo at a good price. I just don’t know how much longer it can last.

Marcarini Barolo 1964 through 2007

This brings me to Marcarini and their Barolo Brunate. If you drink Barolo, the name Brunate should stand out to you, as it’s one of the most prestigious vineyards within the appellation. It is located at the southern boundary of La Morra with a small portion spilling into the commune of Barolo (the commune, not the wine itself). The Marcarini family is fortunate, as are we, that they have owned a portion of the Brunate vineyard for generations. When I entered the market six years ago, these wines were released at $35 a bottle and they were worth every penny. Now, at an average of $50, they are still a great buy, and a recent retrospective tasting of 12 vintages is all the evidence I need to show why.

Over time, little has changed at Marcarini. It’s a winery that is now run by its fifth generation. The winery itself is modern, but the winemaking is still very much traditional, with four-week long macerations on the skins and aging in medium-sized oak barrels of 20/40 hl. In the vineyards, the yields are low, and composting is organic with a strict selection of the grapes at harvest. Other than a replanting of the vines between 1980 and 1986, and the introduction of temperature-controlled fermentation, these wines are very much the same as what you’d receive in a bottle from 1964. Think of this as you read the notes below; I can’t think of a more ageable, traditional Barolo that I could recommend to you at a better price.

On to the notes:

1964 Marcarini Barolo
Brunate

1964 Marcarini Barolo Brunate – The nose showed sweet dark cherries in soil with crushed fall leaves and dank, moist undergrowth. On the palate, it was lively and clean with dry red fruits, minerals and citrus rind. The finish clung to the palate and left me in awe as I considered the age of this bottle and how well it performed. (94 points)

1967 Marcarini Barolo Brunate – On the nose, I found a bright expression of dried red berry with copper penny and a note raw beef. On the palate, it was lively with inner floral notes and light red fruit until a mineral metallic note took over, which wrapped the palate through the close. (86 points)

1969 Marcarini Barolo Brunate – The nose showed animal musk with strawberry, undergrowth and minerals. On the palate, it showed subdued, lean red fruit, a slight metallic note and old cedar. The finish was drying with sour red fruits. (89 points)

1970 Marcarini Barolo Brunate – The nose showed vibrant cherry, smoke, potpourri, fall leaves and old cedar. On the palate, it was finessed and balanced with zesty acidity, showing red fruits, pencil wood and hints of rust. The finish was medium-long, pleasant and clean with focused dried fruit. (90 points)

1974 Marcarini Barolo Brunate – The nose showed animal musk with earth and crushed cherries in a buttery tartlet shell. On the palate, it was airy and lifted with good acidity, showing red berries and earthy minerals. The finish was staying and wrapped the palate in dried red fruit. (91 points)

1982 Marcarini Barolo Brunate – The nose showed rustic red fruits, musk, crushed fall leaves and a hint of spice. On the palate, it was elegant and still lively with deep, fresh red fruits. This finish was medium-long with silky balance. (93 points)

1985 Marcarini Barolo Riserva Brunate – The nose was vibrant and appealing, showing dried flowers and sweet dusty strawberry. On the palate, I found dark red fruits, with cedar, sweet spice and lively acidity. The finish was clean and fresh with hints of lingering tannin. (92 points)

1989 Marcarini Barolo Brunate – The nose was classic with cherry, airy floral rose, menthol and tar. On the palate, it was smooth as silk with fine tannic structure pulsing through its core, yielding intense, yet focused red fruit and hints of spice. The finish brought more of the same and coated the palate is silky tannin. It’s amazing how young the bottle seemed and even more amazing to think what it may be in another 5–10 years. (94 points)

1990 Marcarini Barolo Brunate – The nose showed rich red fruits, dark wood, crushed fall leaves and a hint of varnish. On the palate, it was clean and focused but ripe with red fruits and lacked the depth of greater vintages. The soft finish melted away from the palate leaving a hint of drying tannin. (89 points)

1995 Marcarini Barolo Brunate - The nose showed dark red fruits and moist earth with sweet spice and cedar wood. On the palate, I found a full-bodied expression of ripe, sweet cherry, cedar and herbs against a balanced structure of tannin, leading to a pleasant finish that turned the sweet cherries to sour berries. (92 points)

1996 Marcarini Barolo Brunate – The nose was massive and brooding with dark red fruit, herbs, rose and tobacco, which closed up quickly in the glass and refused to coax back out to the front. On the palate, smooth dark red fruits caressed the senses but were quickly ushered off as its structure took over the palate. The finish showed mouth-coating tannin with an airy, herbal lift. With time, this may be absolutely gorgeous but on this night, it was a bruiser. (93 points)

2007 Marcarini Barolo Brunate – The nose was sweet and pungent with confectionary fruits, tartlet shell, dark chocolate and plum. On the palate, it was juicy with ripe fruits, spice and mint with a smooth sheen; yet a twinge of burning heat marred the palate into the finish, where tannins took center stage. (89 points)

Find Marcarini Barolo Brunate on Wine-Searcher!

If you made it this far, I’d like to take a moment to make one more recommendation. I seriously urge you to consider some of the other wines from Marcarini as well. Marcarini is well known for the Brunate bottling, yet the Barolo La Serra is another excellent Barolo for the money. La Serra is another single vineyard bottling from the commune of La Morra. While known to be more accessible earlier than the Brunate, it’s still an excellent bottle of Barolo that can provide mid-term cellaring and a great deal of value. Lastly, it’s worth checking out the Dolcetto d’Alba “Boschi di Berri.” In Piedmont, Nebbiolo is king with Dolcetto and Barbera receiving real estate in lesser-known locations. This is not so with the Boschi di Berri, a dolcetto that is made from vines that are literally over 100 years old and planted on native root stocks. It is a wine worth seeking out and should be on the short list of anyone who is looking to explore the wines of Piedmont.