Spice It Up: Bucatini all'Amatriciana

By: Eric Guido

If it isn’t broken, why fix it? This is a question I’ve asked myself often as I’ve traveled the road of understanding traditional Italian cuisine. I understand adjusting a recipe to fit society’s current palate but in many cases I find it unwarranted. I can’t count how many times I’ve set out to experiment with a traditional recipe, thinking it may not appeal to the taster, only to find that they love it. In Italy, a sense of place is important, and if you take away certain components of a dish, you take away that which makes it special; you take away its sense of place.

I found this to be extremely apparent with the dish, Bucatini all'Amatriciana. I thought back to culinary school and looked at the old recipe I was given and then began to search for other recipes, some of which came from esteemed chefs. One ingredient that almost all of these recipes substituted with pancetta is guanciale, which also happens to be the most important ingredient and the one that truly gives this dish a sense of place. I ask again; if it isn’t broken, why fix it?

Guanciale is an unsmoked, salt cured meat prepared from the pig’s jowl or cheek. What does it taste like? It tastes like the best slice of bacon you’ve ever had. That flavor is imparted into the sauce of Bucatini all'Amatriciana and truly makes this dish special. It provides a rich pork flavor that is accentuated by a spicy tomato sauce and tempered with a sprinkle of pecorino Romano cheese. This is the stuff that stops conversations around the table, as your guests are enthralled by it’s depth of flavors. Best of all, it’s a simple preparation that only depends on sourcing the best ingredients and can be prepared, start to finish, in under a half hour.

As for pairing wine, well that’s where it can get tricky. Remember that this is a spicy dish by nature and with heat, you always risk the possibility of overwhelming certain wines. I wouldn’t pair a feminine or elegant red with this dish because the heat will dull the wine on the palate. However, a good Zinfandel usually has the intensity, ripe fruit and zesty to truly balance out the heat in this dish. Also, a bit of new oak does wonders contrasting the aromas of the Guanciale.

2010 Ridge Zinfandel East Bench - The nose on the 2010 East Bench shows sweet floral notes with crushed blueberry, cinnamon, a hint of vanilla and an airy herbal lift that pulls it from confectionary and allows the bouquet to remain elegant and fresh. On the palate, it shows an intense mix of berries with massive concentration, followed by a note of citrusy acidity that keeps it fresh. The finish is long and shows hints of the structure that is otherwise masked by this wine’s intense fruit. (91 points)

I beg you to look for guanciale. Could you substitute it with pancetta and still enjoy this dish? Sure, but I assure you that it is pale in comparison to guanciale. I was able to find guanciale after only stopping at two Italian butchers. It’s certainly not something that you’ll find at the local supermarket but, with just a little digging, it’s very possible to source.

Also, I found that using a combination of both fresh and canned tomatoes gave this dish a gorgeous contrast on the palate and my tasting panel agreed wholeheartedly. You could just use the canned tomatoes but it would take away from the recipe, in my opinion.

Makes 4 – 5 servings

½ pound slice guanciale
1 pound Bucatini (pasta)
4 –5 cloves of Garlic (rough chop)
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes (you can double this if you prefer a good amount of heat)
28oz of canned San Marzano tomatoes
¾ cup of plum or grape tomatoes cut into large dice (must be fresh and ripe)
¾ cup of grated pecorino Romano cheese
½ cup red wine (preferably the same wine you plan to pair with the dish)
Olive oil (as needed)
Bunch of fresh basil (for garnish)


Place a large pot of salted water on a burner on high to bring to a boil.

Strain the juice from the canned tomatoes and, over a strainer, try to remove as many seeds as possible. When you’re done, you should have a bowl of strained and deseeded tomatoes and a bowl of tomato juice.

Place a medium to large sauté pan (or sauce pan) over a medium flame. Add olive oil to just barley coat the pan. Before the oil gets too hot, add the guanciale. Think about making Sunday bacon, but with the intention of pulling the meat before it gets crispy.

Add the pasta to the water and set the timer for one minute short of its recommended cooking time.

Remove the guanciale from the pan onto a paper towel to drain, and pour the rendered fat from the pan through a fine mesh strainer. (This is not 100% necessary, but those small bits you can’t scoop out with a spoon may burn if you leave them in the pan.) Wipe any burnt bits from the pan and pour two tbls of the rendered pork fat back into the pan.

Add the rep pepper flakes, the garlic and the fresh tomatoes. Allow to cook over medium-low flame for two minutes. Then (with the pan removed from the burner) add the red wine.

Once the wine has begun to reduce, add the strained San Marzano tomatoes and a cup of the strained tomato juice that came from the can. Bring this entire mixture to a simmer and allow to reduce for 3 – 5 minutes.

Around this time, the pasta should be done. Strain the pasta and pour back into the pot. Now pour the sauce over the pasta and stir until combined. Sprinkle half of the cheese into the pot as well as half of the cooked guanciale. Over a low flame, stir until completely combined. Allow this mixture to cook for one minute on low flame.

Check for seasoning, but remember that the guanciale can add a good amount of seasoning on its own.

Chiffonade the basil.

To plate, place a mound of pasta on a heated plate and sprinkle with pecorino Romano, then guanciale, and finally the basil chiffonade. Clean the rim of you plate and serve.

A Regional Tour of Italian Whites

By: Eric Guido

I remember a time when I would tell people that I only liked “Red” wine. I still hear people say this from time to time and it makes me smile. The idea that there’s something inferior or less enjoyable about white wine, is now humorous to me. It all started with a glass of aged Riesling. With time, Sauvignon Blanc joined my list of favorites. However, what I was truly missing was the vast array of unique whites wines that are made in my favorite wine producing country, Italy.

Most countries specialize in a few white varieties, while some can claim to produce four to six worth exploring. Italy, on the other hand, produces more unique white wines than I could possibly keep track of. Each region of Italy boasts a number of white wines proudly. To list them all would be exhaustive, and likely prove impossible.

However, nothing makes me happier than knowing that I can call upon Italy to fill all of my white wine needs. Especially as summer approaches, having a selection of different Italian whites, promises that you will always have a wine to pair with just about any meal you can dream up. From light and refreshing, poolside sippers, to big, rich wines that crave a serious meal, and everything in-between.

Below you’ll find Italian whites from eight different regions, along with a brief description of its style, a tasting note and what I would pair with it. Enjoy.

Valle d'Aosta  (Muscat) This wine may not be what you'd expect from a typical Muscat (usually with a hint of sweetness), yet it's well worth searching out. This dry style of Muscat shows beautiful floral notes on the nose, which carries well into the finish. A classic Italian treat, Melon and Prosciutto would be an excellent pairing partner for this highly expressive wine.

2011 Maison Anselmet Muscat - The nose was exotic and intense with spicy floral notes, ripe peach and minerals. On the palate, it showed inner floral notes, flower petals; soft pit fruits and beautifully balanced with a long floral finish. Beautiful. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Friuli (Pinot Grigio) If you're still drinking Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio, I beg you to stop and explore a little. Although this wine isn't a textbook example of the variety, it is one that will show you what Pinot Grigio is truly capable of. The Vie di Roman Pinot Grigio spends extra time fermenting on the skins, giving it a copper hue, a unique set of aromas and a weighty presence on the palate that has to be tasted to be believed. As for a pairing, a plate of pasta dressed with pesto sauce would be a perfect fit.

2010 Vie di Romans Friuli Isonzo Pinot Grigio Dessimis - It showed a slight copper tone in the glass. The nose was slightly restrained on the '10 Pinot Grigio Dessimis, yet with gentle coaxing revealed peach skins, underripe nectarine, and yellow flowers. On the palate, it was medium-bodied with white stone fruits, flower petals, and a bitterness that combined with the wine's acid structure to create a lovely balance. The finish showed a dry, structure which leads me to believe that a few years in the cellar will be required to show this wine's true colors. (92 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Trentino Alto Adige (Gewürztraminer) Slowly becoming one of my favorite white wines, Gewürztraminer, shows such a unique floral spiciness with a weighty, almost oily presence on the palate. With a hint of sweetness, these wines make the perfect companion to spicy Chinese, Thai and Indian curries.

2011 Kellerei-Cantina Tramin Gewürztraminer Alto Adige - Südtirol Nussbaumer - The nose showed tropical fruits, spice and stems with a hint of balanced sweetness and floral notes. On the palate, it was rich, but not overwhelming, with an oily texture followed by notes of peach, pear and spice. The finish lingered long with spicy inner floral tones and peach slowly melting away from the palate. (92 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Liguria (Bosco and Albarola) The wines of this tiny region are so impacted by the coastal influences of the neighboring Sea, that you can practically taste it in the wine. Imagine sitting at the beach on the Ligurian Riveara, during a beautifully sunny day, and the wine you put to your lips completes the moment--That's Cinque Terre. I would pair this with a fresh batch of fried calamari with just a twist of lemon and pinch of salt.

2009 Campogrande Cinque Terre - The color was yellow-gold and very pretty in the glass. On the nose, i found apricot, grapefruit, a spritz of lime; followed wet minerals, herbal tones and raw almond. On the palate, it seemed almost weightless carrying the floral notes from the bouquet into the mouth, with notes of grapefruit, orange peel and a bitter twinge that puckered the cheeks. The finish started dry with a bitter citrus note, but soon made the mouth water and left me feeling completely refreshed. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Emilia Romagna (Malvasia & Trebbiano) Another truly unique wine that continues to open up in the glass, the La Stoppa Trebbiano Ageno is far from your average Trebbiano. The nose explodes with layer after layer of exciting aromas while it dominated, and then refreshed the palate. For me, a great pairing would be a mixed greens salad with citrus vinaigrette.

2007 La Stoppa Ageno - The nose showed lush ripe apricot, spicy florals and potpourri with a dark and soothing character that drew me in. On the palate, it showed an initial burst of acidity and almost fizante style, yet it settled with time in the glass and revealed a juciy mix of bitter citrus pith, dried orange, and inner floral notes that lasted through the long finish. My first few sips of this wine deceived me, with time it blossomed to show it’s hidden beauty. (91 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Sardegna (Vermentino) Sardinia is an Island off the western coast of Italy, which is just as effected by Spain as it is Italy. Vermentino is a highly aromatic, medium bodied wine with zesty acidity that pairs beautifully with grilled fish, especially Sea Bass.

2011 Nuraghe Crabioni Vermentino di Sardegna - The nose showed citrus with sea minerals, and almond skins. It caressed the palate with soft textures showing white fruits, which turned tart through the medium-length, juicy finish.(89 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Calamari in Zimino

Abruzzi (Trebbiano) Another Trebbiano, but I had to include it, as this is not your average Trebbiano and should be on your bucket list of Italian wines. The Valentini Trebbiano demands your attention with earthy minerals and beautiful notes of the coast. These wines can be enjoyed young but really shine with a little age. My favorite pairing for this wines is Zuppa di Pesce, or one of my own recipes Calamari in Zimino.

2007 Azienda Agricola Valentini Trebbiano d'Abruzzo - The nose showed lemon with minerals and sea tones, followed by earthy schist and green stems. On the palate, it was clean and balanced with soft citrus tones, followed by notes of ripe melon and stone. The finish was pure with mouth-puckering acidity ushering through flavors of citrus and stony minerals. (93 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Sicilia (Grillo) Sicily is like a nation onto itself, with multiple climatic regions throughout the island. The wines here also take on a very different personality. Grillo, is an aromatically intense wine with a medium-bodied texture, hint of sweetness and intensity on the palate, which opens up many opportunities for pairings. Grilled seafood, rich chicken dishes and moderately spicy asian cuisine would all pair well with this Sicilian native.

2010 Feudi del Pisciotto Grillo Carolina Marengo - The wine showed a golden-yellow color in the glass with intense, spicy florals notes with ripe white fruits. On the palate, it was rich, with oily textures showing peach and inner floral tones with zesty acidity, which kept it clean and juicy throughout the finish. (89 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

** The best part about this tasting were the people I enjoyed it with. This Italian White Wine tasting was hosted by Snooth for their "People's Voice Wine Awards". My tasting companions were made up of some of the best wine bloggers from around the country. Below are links to their impressions from this exciting lineup of wines. Enjoy!

The Reverse Wine Snob: Excellent Italian Whites - Exploring the White Wines of Italy Including Two Bulk Buy Selections

Benito's Wine Reviews: Snooth PVA: il gran giro d’Italia con dodici vini bianchi

Vindulge: Learning about the white wines of Italy with Snooth – one region at a time

Wine Julia: #SnoothPVA: Indigenous Varietal Italian White Wines From North to South

My Vine Spot: #SnoothPVA: White Wines of Italy

The V.I.P. Table In The Media

Benito’s Wine Reviews recently interviewed me. We chatted about all things food, wine and family. It’s a great site, not only for wine but food as well. Author, Ben Carter is a man driven by good food and wine; you can tell by his blog. It’s loaded with recipes, tips, tricks and culinary perspectives from a well-versed and experienced cook. I’m pretty sure the next time we meet, there will be some serious collaborations going on in the kitchen. So if you’re looking to know a little more about me, check out the interview, but even if you don’t, Wine by Benito is well worth having in your bookmarks.

Caprese Salad at The V.I.P. Table

Also in the media this week, Meg Houston Maker just published her piece “Wine With Salad: Pairing Tricks from the Pros” at Palate Press. I was happy to be one of the collaborating chefs to give my thoughts on the subject, as well as lending them some of my photos to use. This is another excellent author that you should be watching, whether it is for food, wine, nature, culture, or place. Meg’s work can also be found at Megmaker.com and at Maker’s Table.