Was It Worth All The Hype? 2013 Barolo

For the last two weeks NYC has been honored to host the who’s who of Piedmont for Antonio Galloni’s La Festa del Barolo, and with many of these producers came my first taste of 2013 Barolo from bottle. Let me just say that the hype is officially warranted.

Over the last two years we’ve been hearing hints about the possibility that 2013 could be the next great vintage. Producers would wax poetic over their expectations, and as friends returned from the region having tasted from barrel, each one would go on and on about the vintage.

The first clues we had to the potential of 2013 came from Antonio Galloni of Vinous, who is constantly on the ground in Piedmont and tasting across a wide range of both young and mature wines. I still think back to his 2012 Barolo article “Grace Under Pressure”, where he tipped his hat in saying “The 2013 Barolos I have tasted from cask are aromatically compelling, rich and structured; in other words super-classic. At their best, the 2013s come across as slightly richer versions of the 2010s.” The comparison to 2010 and the thought of an added level of richness set my imagination on fire.

However, there was another thing to consider, and that’s the escalation of Barolo prices and how important it is to get in as early as possible, especially when you consider the mad dash that collectors made for the 2010’s. All of this has cumulated into one of the most highly anticipated vintages that I have ever witnessed.

And so, as the list of Barolo producers who would be in town for La Festa grew, my message to everyone I knew was to please, please, please let me taste some 2013 Barolo--and my wish was granted.

Chiara Boschis, Elisa Scavino, Fabio Alessandria, and Giuseppe Vajra all took the time to taste and talk with me about the vintage, and what I found was nothing short of spectacular. The 2013 vintage was defined by wet and humid conditions in the spring, yet balanced out into a long and warm growing season, followed by the perfect yin and yang of warm days and cool nights in the fall. The result was a perfect crop for any producer who tended their vineyards with care. Giuseppe Vajra, of G.D. Vajra, told me that he “...feels like the 2013 vintage is closest to the 2008s,” which happens to be one of his all time favorites.

For me, I find the structure of 2010, the aromatics of 2012 and the vibrancy of 2008, but we can talk in these terms for days. In the end, these are some of the most enjoyable young Barolos I’ve ever tasted. They posses stunningly layered aromatics, which continue to open in the glass over time, coupled with beautifully refined tannin, depths of fruit and enveloping textures. Frankly, it was difficult to pick favorites in nearly every tasting. I also couldn’t help but notice how enjoyable the Barolos made from a blend of vineyards were as well. The Paolo Scavino Barolo and Carobric, the Chiara Boschis Via Nuova, and the Vajra Albe were all amazing wines that will be thrilling us for decades to come.

I’m happy to say that 2013 Barolo will be arriving on our shores very soon, and I will certainly be a buyer. Let the hunt begin.

On to The Tasting Notes:

2013 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole - The nose showed incredible depth with exotic floral tones, saline minerals, a bit of marine flora, plum, dusty spice and rosy florals. On the palate, I found mineral-laden cherry, cranberry, inner floral tones, exotic spice, and exquisitely fine tannin. The finish was long, long, long with masses of inner floral tones and dried berries. This wine has a long life ahead of it, and I can’t wait to see where it’s going. (97 points)

2013 Vietti Barolo Rocche di Castiglione - The nose was gorgeous and lifted with bright rosy floral tones, brilliantly pure red fruits, dusty earth, soaring minerality, wet stone, and exotic spices. On the palate, I found feminine textures with tart red cherry, herbs, inner florals and gorgeous, balancing acidity. It finish long and fresh on sweet herbs, minerals and fresh cherries. This is classic Rocche. (97 points)

2013 Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric dël Fiasc - The nose showed intense mineral-infused red berry, cherry, cranberry and hints of plum with a savory edge, then evolving into mint, licorice, undergrowth and hints of herbs. On the palate, silky yet massive textures gave way to a dark mix of both ripe black and tart red fruits, with notes of dark earth, minerals and a twang of bitter herbs. Tannins saturated the senses, yet they weren’t drying or tiring, as a coating a dark red fruits soothed the palate. This was a remarkably balanced Bric del Fiasc that is deceptive in its early appeal. (97 points)

2013 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Vigneto Cannubi - The nose showed masses of dark red fruits, crushed berries, wild herbs, pretty floral tones, and dusty spices, yet through the entire experience remained floral and finessed. On the palate, I found, dense, silky textures which coated the senses with notes of crushed berry and strawberry, before transitioning to inner florals and leather tones. It was much more lifted and refined than expected, with a long finish, displaying fresh red fruits and inner floral tones. (96 points)

2013 Vietti Barolo Ravera - The nose is incredibly deep, rooted in minerals, earth and spice, with dark floral tones, black cherry, plum, blackberry and mint. With time it opened even more to to reveal ethereal florals and herbs. On the palate, I found elegant, velvety textures, with sweet tannins and brisk mineral-laced acidity, giving way to dark fruits, minerals, plum, dried citrus, and hints of lavender. The finish was incredibly long with saturating dark fruits, yet youthfully tannic and closed in on itself. (96 points)

2013 Paolo Scavino Barolo Carobric - The nose on the ‘13 Carobric was stunning. Here I found a layered, lifted and classic mix of crushed cherry, rosey florals, minerals and undergrowth, which turned savory over time, adding hints of dark spices and tobacco. On the palate, I found a vibrant yet silky expression with depths of red cherry playing a sweet-and-sour act on the senses, along with savory herbs and zesty acidity. It finished fresh yet structured on cherries and spice. (96 points)

2013 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero - This is unmistakably Monvigliero. The nose displayed black olive, savory herbs, exotic florals, crushed strawberry, and Indian spice. On the palate, I found soft textures with pure red berry fruit, inner florals and a balanced mix of fine-grained tannins and brisk acidity. It was lifted, pure and classically structured throughout. The finish was long of dried cherry, strawberry and floral tones. (96 points)

2013 Vietti Barolo Lazzarito - Here I found a dark and brooding bouquet of black and red fruits, moist earth, minerals, fresh mint, and hints of exotic spices. On the palate, I found silky, enveloping textures laced with fine tannin, giving way to saturating dark red fruits, hints of spice and bitter herbs. The finish went on and on--and on--with minerals, mint and a bitter twang of herbs. This an amazing vintage for Lazzarito. (96 points)

2013 E. Pira & Figli (Chiara Boschis) Barolo Cannubi - This is a chameleon of a wine, with a bouquet that showed medicinal herb, raspberry, at times almost dark syrupy, then turning to black cherry, balsamic tones, giving way to minerals, dusty exotic spices and earth. On the palate, I found silky textures (very textural and dark - almost imposing at times) and dark red fruits which coated the wine’s fine tannin and saturated the senses over time. It was imposing and intense on the long finish, as fine grain tannin coated the senses, yet it’s wonderfully balanced. This should have some future in store. (96 points)

2013 E. Pira & Figli (Chiara Boschis) Barolo Via Nuova - The nose was remarkably pretty with dark red fruits, roses, minerals, and exotic spices. It was brooding and at times reticent, until a note of minerals and crushed stone joined the fray. On the palate, I found lean, dense textures with dark red berry fruit laced with minerals and a web of fine tannin that saturated the senses. It was amazingly long on saturating dark red fruits and tannin. So classic. (95 points)

2013 Paolo Scavino Barolo Cannubi - The ‘13 Cannubi was a dark and imposing wine of massive depth. Here I found notes of black cherry, sweet herbs, dark chocolate, dusty spice, and crushed stone. On the palate, a massive wave of velvety textures flooded the senses, and red and black fruits gave way to fine tannin. It was quite monolithic yet not over the top, and it tempted me with what was yet to come. The finish displayed intense tart black and red fruits with lasting minerality, seeming to create a black hole on the palate. I can’t even imagine what this wine will reveal in the decades to come, but I’m sure it will be something very special. (95 points)

2013 Paolo Scavino Barolo Bricco Ambrogio - This showed a stunning array of aromatics, as eucalyptus and mint opened up to become tart cherry, roses, minerals and hints of undergrowth. On the palate, I found weighty textures of sheer silk, yet lively and balanced, as notes of plum and black cherry gave way to savory tones of salinity and herbs. It finished long on black cherry, spices and fine-grain tannin. (95 points)

2013 Luigi Baudana Barolo Baudana - The nose was dark and rich with brown spices, crushed blackberry, a dusty mix of minerals and spice with a hint of animal musk. On the palate, I found remarkably soft, velvety textures with zesty black fruits, ripe plum and a bitter hint of herbal spice. It was at once youthfully tannic, yet fresh with a dark and imposing persona, finishing long with dark red fruits, saturating spice and a coating of fine tannin. (95 points)

2013 Luigi Baudana Barolo Cerretta - The nose was spicy, with sweet florals and minerals, tart cherry, wild berry, and brown spices. Over time it became more polished and dark fruited, yet never losing it’s mineral thrust. On the palate, it was dark yet lifted and fresh with notes of wild herbs, blackberry and gruff tannin. Drying over time with youthful tannin, the finish was long and structured, only hinting at fruit. The cerretta will require many years in the cellar to show its best. (94 points)

2013 E. Pira & Figli (Chiara Boschis) Barolo Mosconi - The nose was polished yet earthy, showing dark red fruits with dusty spices, crushed stone minerality, dark earth and floral tones. On the palate, I found pure, silky textures offset by vibrant acidity with tart red fruits, fine tannin and with a zesty acidity that created a bright expression with inner rosy florals. It finished long with tart berries and clenching young tannin. (94 points)

2013 Vietti Barolo Brunate - The nose was dark and rich, showing mineral-laced floral tones, iron, hints of sweet dark spices, and balsamic tones. On the palate, I found savory, silky textures, with dark red berries, plum, and hints of balsamic. It finished incredibly long and brooding with penetrating notes of dark red berries and dried spices. (94 points)

2013 G.D. Vajra Barolo Ravera - What an incredible bouquet on the 2013 Ravera. Here I found sweet dark florals, and brown spices in an exotic and hauntingly beautiful mix, than minerals, earth and undergrowth come forward. On the palate, I found soft textures with ripe dark red fruits, minerals and slow mounting tannin. It finished refined with saturating, brooding tannin and caking minerality. (94 points)

2013 Paolo Scavino Barolo - This displayed a remarkably layered and engaging bouquet for an entry-level offering. Here I found woodsy earth tones with hints of mint, opening to mineral-infused cherry and tobacco. On the palate, I found lifted textures with a fine web of crystalline tannin that gently caressed the senses, as notes of tart cherry were smoothed out by zesty acidity. It finished long and structured on tart cherry and herbs. This was a fantastic showing. (94 points)

2013 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Acclivi - What an exotic and floral bouquet, showing wild herbs, strawberry and hints of rose. On the palate, I found soft textures offset by tart red berry, inner floral tones and dusty spices. It finished dry with a coating of fine tannin and masses of dry extract. (93 points)

2013 Vietti Barolo Castiglione - The nose opened with hints of cedar dust, dried cherries, and crushed fall leaves. On the palate, I found refined and silky textures, with pure red fruits, spice, intense minerals and savory depth. The finish was long with hauntingly dark floral tones and hints of bitter herbs. (93 points)

2013 G.D. Vajra Barolo Albe - The bouquet displayed intense bright cherry, mint, pine, hints of cedar, roses and spice. On the palate, I found silky textures with a cherry and plum mix, lifted by wonderfully balanced acidity and a hint of youthful tannin. The finish was long with a coating of tart cherry, blackberry, medicinal herbs and hints of spice. (93 points)

2013 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo - The nose was gorgeous, showing crushed raspberry, hints of herbs, and dusty spice. On the palate, I found soft textures, lifted by pure red fruits, inner floral tones and light tannin. It was remarkably pure, leading in a long finish with hints of tannin and inner floral tones. (92 points)

2013 Paolo Scavino Barolo Monvigliero - The nose displayed sweet herbs, undergrowth and cherry liquor. On the palate, silky textures were offset by a bitter twang of tart red fruits and herbs, as the Monvigliero maintained its freshness through zesty acidity. The finish was long with saturating dark red fruits, spice and mint. I enjoyed this quite a bit, yet it lacks the textural heft that brings balance throughout the rest of the lineup. (92 points)

Article, Tasting Notes and Photos by: Eric Guido

2009 Barolo: Is Good Not Good Enough?

Cannubi reigns supreme with a number of excellent wines!

As we are all bombarded with news of how amazingly great 2010 Barolo is, and as importers and retailers speculate on just how much money they can squeeze out of us on presales of wines--which in some cases haven’t even been blended and bottled—I’m looking at the current release of 2009 Barolo. And why not? Oh wait; wasn’t this vintage canned as overly ripe with harsh tannins? Why, yes it was. However, that’s a broad generalization. The fact is, while many of us are spending ridicules amounts of money on wines we can’t even taste yet, there are wines turning up on the shelves now that may not be for the ages, but will drink well right out of the gate. What’s more, with all the speculation over 2010, don’t be surprised if you see these 2009’s heavily discounted. I’m not saying this is a great vintage, or even a good one, but there are some standout bottles that Barolo lovers will enjoy.

Cascina Gavarini at Monforte

2009 was an idiosyncratic vintage. Many people are simply calling it ripe and comparing it to 2007. However, the fact is that 2009 wasn’t your typical ripe vintage. Heavy snows built of up water reserves through the winter, (usually a good thing), but it didn’t stop there as a cool damp spring resulted in irregular flowering with more rain. In late July a steady heat set in, which didn’t relent. The ground water helped here, but combined with an excess of constant sun, the vines suffered without expert canopy management. Late August saw better temperatures and ripening into September, but further rain on the horizon prompted many growers to pick early. In the end, these wines were made in the vineyards, and those who failed there failed across the board.

You may wonder, why should we even consider buying them? I will admit that I have a tendency to associate classically-styled wines with quality. Yet, as the years go by and my cellar full of young Barolo (too young to drink) increases, I welcome a vintage that I can enjoy in the near term. In many cases, that’s what 2009 is, and in my opinion (because I heard many people say the same about 2003, and I disagree), it is one of the first young vintages that I’ve tasted where I actually enjoy drinking the wines.

So as we worry about how good 2001, 2004, 2006 and 2008 will one day turn out, and as we worry how we’re going to afford 2010, I suggest grabbing a bottle of Paolo Scavino Cannubi, Pecchenino Le Coste, Burlotto Monvigliero or any of my top scoring ‘09s, and give them a taste for yourself. I think you’ll be sipping and smiling, thinking about all those wines you might enjoy after twenty years in your cellar, and how much you’re currently enjoying the glass in your hand right now.

On to the wines:

2009 Paolo Scavino Barolo Cannubi – The nose really jumped from the glass in the 2009 Scavino Cannubi, showing dark raspberry, hints of spicy oak, chalky and sandy minerals with a slight sour floral note. On the palate, it was intense with dark red berry, mineral-infused stone and a formidable structure, which perfectly balanced the wine’s intensity. Saturating red fruit, which stayed long on the palate, personified the finish as this wine’s intensity slowly melted away. This dark beauty is a truly serious wine. (94 points)

Producer website: Paolo Scavino
Avg. price $115
Find it on: Wine-Seacher!

2009 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole – The nose was feminine and elegant, especially for this ripe vintage, showing mixed ripe berries, rosy floral tones and lifting hints of menthol. On the palate, it was focused and refined with bright red fruits, which showed excellent depth before being pushed back by the wine’s youthful structure. The finish was long and elegant, yet drying as expected. This is a beautifully balanced, finessed wine which should drink well relatively early. (93+ points)

Producer website: G.D. Vajra
Avg. price $80
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Pecchenino Barolo Le Coste – The nose was dark and powerful with ripe red fruits, sweet florals, spice and a mentholated freshness. On the palate, a grounding note of bitter, medicinal herb and spice, which provided a beautiful contrast of textures, met ripe raspberry and cherry. The finish was long with earthy dark fruits, which seemed to saturate the senses. The 2009 Pecchenino showed wonderful balance in its dark and brooding nature, a true standout in the vintage. (93 points)

Producer website: Pecchenino
Avg. price $65
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero - The color was a beautiful translucent ruby. On the nose, I found heady aromas of ripe red berries and roses with crushed Kalamata olive, rosemary, and savory roasted meats. On the palate, it was tightly wound and feminine, showing densely packed dusty cherry fruit, herbal tones and minerals before it's fine tannins coated the senses. The finish was long, yet dry with red berry-concentrate saturating the senses. With time, this will gain weight and volume on the palate, making it a truly complete experience. For now, it needs time to fill out. (93 points)

Producer website: G.B. Burlotto
Avg. price $58
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Brezza Barolo Cannubi – The nose showed intense tart cherry and herbs with a bright and vibrant floral rose and hints of grapefruit. On the palate, it was feminine, yet concentrated and pure with tart cherry and inner floral tones. The finish was long, showing dried strawberry and hints of residual tannin. (92 points)

Producer website: Brezza
Avg. price $50
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Luigi Baudana Barolo Baudana - This showed a classic Barolo profile on the nose with dried cherry, crushed fall leaves, hints of iron, minerals and exotic spice. On the palate, I found juicy, ripe strawberry, yet it firmed up quickly, turning leaner with tannic heft. This wine was feminine and pure throughout with red fruit, inner floral notes and minerals on the finish. (92 points)

Producer website: Luigi Baudana
Avg. price $75
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Virna Barolo Cannubi Boschis – The nose was floral and vibrant, showing a mix of cherry, strawberry, floral rose and minerals. On the palate, it was silky upon entry with ripe strawberry, inner florals and herbs, yet it quickly tensed up to reveal slightly gruff tannins. The finish was unrelenting with beautiful inner floral notes and a hint of citrus. (92 points)

Producer website: Virna
Avg. price $59.99
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Cascina Bruciata Barolo Cannubi Muscatel – The nose was, at first, restrained, yet it opened beautifully in the glass to reveal strawberry, with a savory, almost meaty note, followed by floral perfumes and a hint of sweet citrus. On the palate, this showed an abundance of energy with dark cherry and a hint of citrus peel. The finish was tart yet long on fruit with hints of tannin tugging at the palate. (92 points)

Producer website: Cascina Bruciata
Avg. price $60
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Elvio Cogno Barolo Ravera – Intense red berry, rosy floral perfume and dusty, dry spices filled the senses with one whiff from this feminine and floral Barolo. On the palate, I found tart, young berry fruit in a bright, feminine and floral expression of Nebbiolo fruit. A formidable tannic structure embodied the finish with tart berry extract clinging to the palate. This is a great value and excellent wine for the vintage though it is in need of time in the cellar to fully show its qualities. (91 points)

Producer website: Elvio Cogno
Avg. price $63
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Damilano Barolo Cannubi – The nose was ripe and dark, showing intense depth with mixed berries, hints of spice and cranberry, dark soil and undergrowth. On the palate, soft textures quickly turned to intense concentration, which really saturated the senses with medicinal cherry, inner floral tones and earth. The finish was beautiful, as the usually Nebbiolo tannins laid back to display inner floral notes and red fruit. Very nicely done, yet drinking early for a Barolo. (91 points)

Producer website: Damiliano
Avg. price $78
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Oddero Barolo Rocche di Castiglione – What was most striking about the Oddero Rocche was the color; a bright red and orange hue that’s almost transparent. However, one sniff, and this perfumed wine showed its power, as rich and dark ripe red fruits, spice, and hints of animal musk filled the senses. On the palate, it was structured yet focused, showing spiced cherry, cedar and earth. The finish was cut short by this wine’s tannic heft, yet a pleasantly earthy hint of fall leaves and wild berry lingered on. (91 points)

Producer website: Oddero
Avg. price $95
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Fratelli Alessandria Barolo Monvigliero – The nose was fresh and lifting with pretty, sweet floral notes, cherry and stony minerals. On the palate, it was ripe with silky textured, dark red fruits and herbs. Inner floral tones lasted into the finish, along with saturating red fruit, which clung to the senses. (91 points)

Producer website: Fratelli Alessandria
Avg. price $61
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 La Spinetta Barolo Vigneto Campe Vursu – The nose was dark yet restrained at first, yet with time in the glass it began to open up, showing ripe black cherry, dried, dusty floral tones and hints of spice. On the palate, ripe red fruits quickly turned tart and structured, yet there was a focus and elegance to the fruit. Tart red berry lingered on the youthful finish with hints of undergrowth. (91 points)

Producer website: La Spinetta
Avg. price $60
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato – The nose was dark with powerful ripe red fruits, spicy wood tones, potpourri and black licorice. Yet, on the palate, it was soft with silky textures, showing notes of cherry and dried spices in a very balanced and pure effort. The finish was long with spicy, dark red fruits and hints of tannin. Honestly, this wine was a pleasure on the palate, and it’s simply a shame to find so much oak influence in the nose. Maybe time will resolve that issue, yet with the 2009, I’m not sure the fruit will outlast the tannins. Yet, for someone who enjoys a modern style, this may be right up your alley. (89 points)

Producer website: Pio Cesare
Avg. price $100
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Ceretto Barolo Bricco Rocche – The nose showed ripe berry, hints of sweet spice and rosy floral tones. On the palate, it was soft and velvety with raspberry, dark spices and a hint of cedar. The finish was long and juicy, yet I continued to wonder throughout this experience: where are the tannins? An excellent wine for instant gratification. (89 points)

Producer website: Cerretto
Avg. price $190
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 G.D. Vajra Barolo Albe - The nose was floral and ripe, showing spiced cherry, sweet florals, graphite, and lifting notes of peppermint. On the palate, it was juicy with weightless, silky textures and a dark red fruit persona. Sweet spices and inner florals lasted through the finish as tannins began to saturate, and dry out the senses. An excellent wine for it's price point and a great way to enjoy Barolo as your more expensive and austere bottles mature. (89 points)

Producer website: G.D. Vajra
Avg. price $37
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Chiara Boschis Barolo Cannubi – The nose was restrained, yet with coaxing, showed an elegant mix of dark cherry, rose, soil and minerals. On the palate, I found soft textures met by flavors of red berry and tealeaf; however, there seems to be a lack of concentration here. It finished much in the same manner as a pretty wine, yet falling slightly short. (88 points)

Producer website: Chiara Boschis
Avg. price $86
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Damilano Barolo Lecinquevigne – The nose showed tart cherry with floral rose, dark soil and gravel. On the palate, ripe red fruits were met by inner floral notes in an almost sweet style. Tannins took control through the finish, drying out the palate. (87 points)

Producer website: Damilano
Avg. price $32
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Michele Chiarlo Barolo Cannubi – The nose showed textbook Barolo notes of dried strawberry, floral rose and dusty spice, yet lacking any serious character. On the palate, it was intense with savory red fruit tones and a rough tannic structure that seemed to muddle its focus of fruit. Dark soil and red fruit remained on the finish with grainy tannin tugging at the cheeks. (86 points)

Producer website: Michele Chiarlo
Avg. price $93
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

Dolcetto: A Perfect Anyday Wine

I have something of a secret affection for Dolcetto. It started almost as far back as my love for Barolo. Let’s face it; we can’t drink Barolo everyday, although I know some people who try. Dolcetto, which translates to Little Sweet One, is for the most part, an easy drinking wine from Piedmont, Italy. However, it’s hardly ever sweet and if you know the right producers to look for, than you can find Dolcetto with amazing depth, clarity and nuance. Far from just an easy drinking wine.

Some producers use Dolcetto as a means to turn a quick buck with affordable juice that can be enjoyed and sold while their Barolo ages toward release. Other’s, like many on this list, look at it as it’s own beautiful expression of terroir. Personally, I believe it is the ultimate weeknight spring or summer wine. Dolcetto goes wonderfully with food, especially sausage, lamb, burgers and pizza. And on a very hot day, try one at cellar temperature (55 degrees) for a real treat. I obviously couldn’t include every wine I admire, but what follows are some of the best Dolcetto I’ve had this year.

Marziano Abbona

Most of the Dolcetto you'll find stateside will come from Alba. However, the Dolcetto from Dogliani is another animal all together. In Alba, Dolcetto vines are grown in the poorest sections of Barolo vineyards but in Dogliani, Dolcetto is king. With a focus on quality, optimal vineyard locations and older vines (in this case 47 -60 years old), you'll find much more powerful and even age worthy examples here.

2009 Marziano Abbona Dolcetto di Dogliani Papa Celso - The nose was like a blackberry pie with black fruits, herbs and aromas of toasty savory pate brisse. On the palate, it was juicy with more blackberry and medicinal herbs. The finish was tight with woodsy notes. (89 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Flavio Roddolo

Flavio Roddolo was a new name for me this year and one I will not soon forget. The wines are made "naturally" from vines that are 10 - 70 years old and have not seen chemical treatments in 40 years. Fermention is done using indigenous yeast and there is no filtering before bottling. This results in wines that show true terroir, character and depth with the potential to improve in the cellar.

2010 Flavio Roddolo Dolcetto d’Alba – The nose showed a darker and more seductive side of Dolcetto with black cherry and dark wild berries; floral perfume followed with a hint of Indian spice. On the palate it was velvety soft, but not heavy, with juicy acidity ushering in blackberry fruits and then flexing it’s structural muscle with slightly drying tannin. On the finish an attractive herbal character mixed with wild berries lingered to the close. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

G.D. Vajra

Everything the house of G.D. Vajra touches, seems to turn to gold. At a recent portfolio tasting, I was floored by the consistency across the board. The Baroli are top notch, with their Bricco delle Viole being one of my top scorers each year. Their Dolcetto is no different.

2009 G.D. Vajra Dolcetto d'Alba - The nose showed focused blackberry fruit with spice, floral notes and wood tones. On the palate, this showed vibrant acidity with more blackberry and hints of citrus, leading to a clean fruity finish that provided those token Dolcetto bitters that I have grown to love. (89 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Elio Grasso

I would be remiss not to mention the excellent Dolcetto made by Elio Grasso. It's made in a slightly rustic style that's not for everyone, but that's okay, because then there will be more for me. However, if you love Dolcetto or want to understand it, then you owe it to yourself to check it out.

2009 Elio Grasso Dolcetto d'Alba dei grassi - The nose showed ripe blackberries, with floral undergrowth and a hint of bouillon. On the palate, it was soft and enveloping in a mid-weight style with blackberries, a hint of sweet spice and a touch rustic with juicy acidity. The finish was pleasant and fresh just as a Dolcetto should be. I thoroughly enjoyed it. (89 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Bartolo Mascarello

This is one of those Dolcetto that actually appears to need more time to come around. The house of Bartolo Mascarello needs no introduction to anyone that knows about Barolo. The style is a bit rustic but with intense purity and layers that seem to keep unfurling in the glass. As much as I enjoyed this recently, I will purposely forget a few bottles in the cellar for future enjoyment.

2010 Bartolo Mascarello Dolcetto d'Alba - The nose showed crushed blackberry, floral notes, wild herbs and earth with a rustic twist. On the palate, it was medium bodied with plush blackberry fruits and a bit of tart citrus, which coated the senses and lasted through the long finish. The wine's structure could be felt in the close as hints of tannin clung to the palate. (89 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Domenico Clerico

Domenico Clerico goes for a richer style of Dolcetto yet somehow manages to keep it juicy and fresh. It’s a combination that I find particularly appealing on autumn and winter nights.

2010 Domenico Clerico Dolcetto Visadi Langhe - The nose was robust, showing rich black cherry, blackberry jam, dark chocolate, pepper and hint of herbs. On the palate, intense dark fruits and earthy stone were ushered in by gripping acidity, which blossomed toward the finish with a bitter twinge and hints of tannin. This was racy yet unexpected and atypical of a Dolcetto. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

G.B. Burlotto

Burlotto makes some great Barolo in a traditional style. However, you’re missing out if you don’t try their entry-level wines as well. The Barbera, Freisa, Pelaverga and Dolcetto are all worth the price of admission

2009 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Dolcetto d'Alba - As I sat and sniffed around the edges of this glass, it reminded me of everything I love about Italian wine. The first impression was of blackberry jam and brioche, but with time in the glass, the slightest hint of barnyard and earth added dimensions that I had at first not noticed. It was easy on the palate, with perfect balance and flavors of wild berries and a bit of old wood. Some gravelly tannin was noticeable on the finish but it served to remind me that this wasn't just a forgettable wine from who-knows-where, this was Dolcetto from Piedmont and a truly excellent example at that. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!