Is it Napa or Friuli? Neither. It's Massican

When you hear the words Napa Valley, there are a number of things that may come to mind. Certainly the large scale Cabernets and Meritage blends that Napa is so proud of. Maybe the 1976 Judgment of Paris that put California on the international map. Or, if you’re truly initiated, it might be the exciting Sauvignon Blanc that has been hitting the market. However, one thing that doesn’t easily come to mind are Northern Italian-inspired wines that taste more of the old world than the new, yet somehow manage to still be truly Californian. Yet that is exactly what Massican has captured in each of their bottles.

Ribolla vines
photo courtesy of Dan Petroski

Now on its second vintage, Massican has succeeded in showing that lightning can strike twice. Headed up by Dan Petroski (of Larkmead Vineyards) and sourcing its fruit from around Napa Valley, Massican strives to show the world that California is capable of creating white wines of verve, rooted in the earth, and electric on the palate.

Is it just another gimmick? Absolutely not. The white wines of Friuli have been wowing palates around the world for well over a decade now. Names such as Jermann, Miani, and Vie di Romans have been finding their way into collectors’ cellars for a long time, and not just the cellars of the committed Italophile; these wines are pleasing to a wide range of palates. Such was the inspiration for Massican.

Sixty-four year old Tocai vines
photo courtesy of Dan Petroski

Having sourced their fruit from Tocai vines that are sixty-four years old, Ribolla from the only known Ribolla vineyard in California and Chardonnay, which is planted in the coolest climate areas of Napa Valley, Massican is showing us that California is capable of more. It's a refreshing take on a region that has proved it can make big, bold wines to compete with Bordeaux. Now Massican has set out to show that it is capable of wines of refinement, earth, acid and stone. Those who love the white wines of Austria, Germany and Northern Italy... These are are for you.

Sauvignon Blanc air-drying for the Passito
photo courtesy of Dan Petroski

To truly set off the environment for this tasting, I invited a fellow wine writer to join me in a taste of Friuli dinner, during which we followed the wines for over four hours all paired with the regional cuisine of Friuli, Italy. It was a stunning success. The Massican wines paired beautifully with the flavors of Friuli. I could almost imagine myself sitting by the fogolar (hearth, cooking, meeting and eating spot in the traditional Friuli home), sipping wines made by the same people who tended the fields and raised the animals that provided us with our meal.

On to the wines:

2010 Massican Annia – The 2010 Annia, a blend of tocai friulano, ribolla gialla and chardonnay, is truly rooted in the earth as aromas of minerals and schist filled out the nose. With further exploration, I found white flowers, lemon zest and green melon. On the palate, an earthy salinity followed by citrus and honeydew melon glided across the senses. There was a lean acidity that provided laser-like focus and a mouthwatering zing that lasted into the finish with flavors of herbs and melon. This wine continued to gain depth and nuance over the course of 24 hours. I would have never expected the Annia came from Napa, and I mean that in the best possible way. (90 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

The food for the wine: The Annia was paired with a salad of baby greens with Prosciuto san Daniel and figs poached in sweet Marsala. The dressing was a reduction of the poaching liquid with a splash of red wine vinegar and olive oil. The pairing was perfect.

2010 Massican Gemina – The nose was floral with honey, almond skins and green apple. On the palate, it showed a fuller body than the Annia with a similar acid profile. Flavors of nectarine and white fruits filled the senses and gained sweetness toward the back palate. The finish was fresh and mouthwatering, as the fruits turned to sour melon. This blend of chardonnay and ribolla gialla was very pleasing, right out of bottle, but really came to life with time in the glass. (91 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

Photo courtesy of Dave Trieger
of Vigna Uva Vino

The food for the wine: The Gemina was paired with Paparot (a cornmeal-spinach soup) with a side of Salsicce al Vino (pork sausage poached in white wine). The softer character of the Gemina lent well to this pleasing peasant dish from Friuli. The biting acidity also gave a much-needed lift to the polenta and spinach.

2010 Massican Sauvignon Blanc – The nose on the Sauvignon Blanc showed lemon sabayon, a classic whiff of cat pee, buttery crust and herbs. On the palate, I found a beautiful balance and structure with flavors of lime and granny smith apple. The finish was long and tangy with citrus and stone fruits. It was a complete and highly enjoyable wine that had an alluring "drink me" personality. It will be hard to keep your hands off this now, however this bottle should continue to improve for a few years in bottle. (93 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

The food for the wine: Costicine di Maile con Verze (braised pork chops with savoy cabbage) with Rape e Patate All’Aceto (tangy skillet turnips and potatoes). This combination was a perfect example of how the bracing acidity of these wines can truly liven up a meal. The pork loin chops over cabbage were seductive in their rich and inviting flavors, but it was the zest of citrus from the Sauvignon that made it so memorable. Add to that the tangy turnip and potatoes with thick sliced pieces of bacon and you have a meal that was pure sinful indulgence.

2010 Massican Passito – The Passito, a sweet wine from air-dried sauvignon blanc and a small part ribolla gialla, showed a bouquet of honeysuckle with mint and sage pudding. On the palate, I found peach, sweet melon and lemon curd with a lush full body and zesty acidity that promised years of development in bottle. The finish went on and on with notes of sweet melon. (91 points)Find it: Wine-Searcher!

The food for the wine: What would you pair with a sweet Pasito-style wine? Some might say a cheese plate, but I’d rather go for a dessert that doesn’t depend on its own sweetness to satisfy—how about a tart? Torta di Mele is an apple tart with a crust made from toasted hazelnuts and breadcrumbs. Without the Passito, it’s a beautiful dessert with flavors of sour apple and roasted nuts in butter and toasty goodness, but with the Passito, it truly shined. Neither the Passito nor the tart took center stage; instead they complemented each other with sweet versus sour and a crispy buttery shell versus a smooth lush sweetness. It was a match made in heaven.

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La casa di Fernando

In my line of work, not many people are willing to cook for you. It’s a sad result of a profession based on making people happy through food. The funny part is that I’ve been amazed by more home cooks than professional chefs in my life. There’s nothing like being in someone’s home and sampling a dish they made to please their guests, along with all the heart and soul that goes into it. I think people believe I’ll expect a culinary masterpiece, when in reality, my favorite foods consist of burgers, BLTs and a well-seasoned, medium-rare porterhouse steaks.

However, there are a few friends who have no problem putting on the chef hat and inviting me into their homes, and to them I am grateful. Fernando is one of those people. On my most recent visit, I was well fed with masses of food from his Argentine-style assado, which included spicy meatballs that would make my nonna shed a tear. An entire host of salads to whet the palate could be found throughout the table, as well as roasted vegetables and cheeses. Then there was the flan, which is an art I’ll leave to the experts like Fernando, who prepared it perfectly… And then there was the wine.

The tasting table in my cellar

You see, my friend Fernando, has what I would describe as a mature, balanced cellar. Something that I’ve been working very hard to create over the past five years and am only beginning to see the light at the end of the tunnel (probably about five more years before I beginn reaping the benefits). What I mean by this is a wine cellar, built over time, where a good selection of whites, reds, early drinkers and bottles to mature are all stored. The best thing about a balanced cellar is that when you have company over, you can pull out a range of wines that would make, even the most experienced tasters, eyes light up. That’s exactly what Fernando did on this night.

The wines below are from a mix of different regions and styles. Each bottle was great in its unique way and most were entering maturity, with some upside potential, but very little baby fat. There are a number of gems in the mix below. Enjoy, and thanks to Fernando for the excellent meal.

On to the wines:

2006 Vie di Romans Friuli Isonzo Flors di Uis – The nose was amazingly fragrant and continued to pick up nuances as it sat in the glass. A bouquet of spring flowers, tart lemon, peach, orange skins and green apple dazzled the senses. On the palate, it showed a medium weight with a citrus zing, more floral notes and stone fruits. The finish was long with sour citrus fruits, yet mouthwatering and begging you to take another sip. (93 points)

2002 Schloss Lieser Niederberg Helden Riesling Auslese – The nose showed bacon fat and white flowers. On the palate, I found fresh cranberry, and pineapple with a soft yet vibrant feel on the tongue. The finish was at first sweet and then sour with hints of grapefruit. (88 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

1990 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Valbuena 5° – The 1990 Vega-Sicilia wowed me with its rich yet elegant personality. The nose showed cherry preserves and cranberry with hints of clove, vanilla and burnt sugar. However, with how rich and young the nose seemed, there was an underlying earthiness and hint of musky animal fur that truly kept it interesting. On the palate, it was elegant, with a velvety feel on the tongue as flavors of rich red, then black fruits and dusty spices assaulted the senses. The finish was long and turned from juicy to sour as the fruit faded away. (96 points)

1994 Henschke Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon – The nose showed vibrant cranberry fruit, red beets and undergrowth in a big yet airy style. On the palate, it was massive and rich, yet still juicy with black fruits and spice. The finish was fresh and clung to the palate. (90 points)

1997 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva – The nose showed cherry, herbs, dusty potpourri and hints of blue cheese. On the palate, this wine was soft and mid-weight with zesty acidity and flavors of sour red fruits and salinity. The finish was slightly drying and still showed a good amount of structure for Chianti with 14 years on it. (89 points)

1997 Cabreo Il Borgo Toscana IGT – The nose showed rich cherry fruit, minerals, dried leaves and floral notes. On the palate, it was velvety smooth with dark chocolate, black currant, spices and hints of licorice. The medium-long finish showed fading dark fruits, broth and a bit of salinity. (93 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

1998 Fattoria Petrolo Galatrona Toscana IGT – The nose showed black currant, hints of toast and animal musk. On the palate, it was at first silky smooth but turned dry as this wine showed its still youthful structure. Rich, concentrated black fruits and spices attacked the senses and faded into a long finish. This wine came across as still needing a number of years before it could really show its true colors. (90 points)

1998 Domaine de Marcoux Châteauneuf-du-Pape – The nose showed blue and black fruits with meaty, peppery notes wrapped in shroud of vanilla. On the palate, it was rich with a core of zesty acidity that kept things interesting as dark chocolate, sweet spices and waxy red licorice filled the senses. The finish clung to the palate with dark fruits and spices. This bottle was almost too big for its own good but remained restrained enough to leave me with a very pleasing experience. (92 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

1999 Bodegas Mauro Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León Terreus Pago de Cueva Baja – The nose showed cranberry and plum sauce, with sweet spices and herbs. On the palate, it was velvety and made its presence known in a mix of full-bodied rich black fruit and spice-laden vibrant acidity. Black cherry, cinnamon and vanilla lingered into the long finish, which turned a little dry, but otherwise showed this wine has many years of life ahead of it. (92 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

1990 Chapoutier Cote-Rotie – The nose showed blackberry, citrus rind, minerals and hints of pepper. On the palate, it was soft, with a medium weight showing cherry, herbs and hints of salinity. The finish was medium-long and refreshing. (89 points)