First Look: 2009 Brunello di Montalcino

Article and Reviews by: Eric Guido

We live in a world where everyone is waiting for the next great vintage. Today, it’s just part of who we are. I’m guilty of it myself, in that I’m always associating ageability with quality. However, there’s an entire world of wine out there that isn’t stashed in someone’s cellar for decades. When I think Brunello, I think of a wine that needs ten years before I can touch it. However, that doesn’t always have to be the case, and beauty can be found in youth without feeling guilty for sacrificing the precious gems in our cellars.

This brings me to 2009 Brunello and the wines that I sampled at the 2014 Benvenuto Brunello event in New York City. Unlike 2006, 2009 isn’t a year of big structured wines for the cellar. Unlike 2007, it also isn’t a year packed with ripe, dense, sweet fruity wines. Instead, it’s a vintage that many in Brunello are referring to as traditional, like a vintage of old. Most of these wines showed some of the most beautfiul Sangiovese boquetes that I’ve ever encountered in a young Brunello. The are heavily perfumed with floral intensity while displaying ripe (yet not overripe) red fruits and spice.

One whiff is enough to toss you into a Brunello trance that can make your eyes roll back in your head. However, it’s on the palate that these wines take a sharp turn from the obvious. At most Brunello release events, I enter the room prepared for my gums to be ripped from my teeth by searing tannin and acidity. In fact, the hardest part is usually identifying the quality of the fruit versus the wines structure. However, that’s not so in 2009. Instead, these wines are fruity and juciy; some lacked depth, yet the best of them combined those juicy textures with a refined structure that peered out from behind their ripe fruit flavors. Those are the wines that will fill my cellar.

As for ageability, a number of them will mature well in your cellar (and I made sure to identify them in my comments). However, nearly all of these wines are drinking already, and the best of them should enjoy a broad drinking window.

In the end, 2009 looks to be a very good bookend to all of the big or structured vintages that we’ve seen or are in the pipeline. The one warning I’ll give you is to read the notes carefully, as some wines may score well now for the way they performed today, while others earned there merits on how well they should drink for many years to come. Most people know that I like a little backbone in my wines, and those are the ones that you’ll find on my table.

On to the Notes:

2009 Tenuta San Giorgio Ugolforte Brunello di Montalcino – The nose was beautiful and floral with ripe fruits, showing perfumed cherry and dusty sweet spice with chalky minerals; along with the slightest hint of oak from a deft hand. On the palate, it showed silky textures with ripe red berries and inner floral tones in a focused, clean, yet mouthfilling effort. The finish was staying, showing hints of structure. The San Giorgio Brunello was simply a gorgeous, complete wine. (94+ points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Il Grappolo / Fortius Brunello di Montalcino – The nose was very pretty and a bit rustic, showing ripe cherry with hint of citrus providing lift, as notes of soil and undergrowth filled the senses. Ripe strawberry and citrus notes that carried over from the nose filled the senses in this mouthfilling effort. A tannin and acid balancing act made for a dazzling finish as mouthwatering cherry notes coated every corner of the palate. (94 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Le Ragnaie Brunello di Montalcino V.V. – The nose was pretty, not overdone, just perfectly refined with floral perfumes, small red berries and hints of animal musk. On the palate, I found silky textures, which were accentuated by focused red fruits, hints of spice and juicy acidity. The wine’s structural components shined through on the finish, along with a note of concentrated red fruit. The V.V. from Le Ragnaie is a selection of the best fruit from older vines, and it has a truly regal and refined personality. (94 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Le Ragnaie Brunello di Montalcino – The nose was beautiful with perfumed floral tones, intense tart red berry, an herbal lift, underbrush and hints of animal musk. On the palate, it was focused, yet intense with young cherry, spice and soil tones, which lingered long into the finish. Hints of tannin and acid left the cheeks puckered and promised good thing to come. (93+ points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino – The nose was floral and feminine, showing crushed strawberry, tealeaf, floral perfumes and hints of undergrowth. On the palate, rich, intense red fruit, spice and soil tones came across in a powerful expression of Sangiovese. The lasting finish showed notes of dried cherries and herbal tea with hints of tannin tugging at the cheeks. (93+ points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Talenti Brunello di Montalcino – The nose was dark and inviting with red berry fruit, underbrush, animal musk and a hint of brown sugar. On the palate, ripe cherry and spice was met by inner floral tones. Its full-bodied mouthfeel and precision of fruit truly left an elegant and pretty impression. The finish was long with intense, saturating red fruits that nearly masked the wine’s structural components. The 2009 Talenti Brunello was polished and satisfying, truly exceptional for the vintage. (93 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Loacker / Corte Pavone Brunello di Montalcino – The nose was very pretty and floral with notes of strawberry jam, sweet spice, and herbal notes. With coaxing, the bouquet continued to gain more depth and dark fruit aromas. On the palate, it showed smooth, silky textures contrasting hints of tannin with dark red fruit, herbs and spice, which lasted into the finish. It was youthful with plenty of energy and concentration to improve for a number of years. (93 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Palazzo Brunello di Montalcino – The nose was bueatiful, as it opened up in the glass to reveal tart red berry, dry autumnal spice and hints of animal musk. On the palate, bitter cherry with cinnamon and cedar saturated the senses yet remained juciy and fresh. The finish was staying with young red fruits that made the mouth water, followed by hints of cheek-puckering tannin. (93 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino – The nose was vibrant and intense, showing dark, ripe cherry, brown sugar, floral undergrowth and hints of green stems. On the palate, it was juicy with brisk acidity, ripe red berry, inner floral notes, tealeaf and spice. The finish was staying with spiced red berry tones. There was little tannin to be found, yet this was a pleasure to drink now. (92+ points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Capanna Brunello di Montalcino – The nose was dark, inviting and intense, showing black cherry with hints of stem and beautiful floral perfumes. On the palate, it was juicy, yet with a good concentration of spicy red fruits and a nice acid-driven lift toward the close. The finish was long, showing tart red berry and dry spice. Capanna managed to handle the vintage well and showed enough stuffing to live up to the name, Brunello. (92 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Capanne Ricci Brunello di Montalcino –- The nose showed ripe cherry with dusty coco, sweet spice and hints of cedar. On the palate, I found tart red berries and herbs with brisk acidity and soft textures. Cherry and soil tones prevailed into the long finish with a lovely hint of ginger. (92 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Tenuta Carlina La Togata Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed ripe red fruits, dusty spice, herbal tealeaf and a lifting citrus note. On the palate, it showed excellent concentration for the vintage with notes of cherry, cinnamon, cedar and minerals. The finish was staying, with hints of structure and intense red fruit, which seemed to saturate the senses. (92 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Col D'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino – This started restrained and closed on the nose, yet opened with time in the glass, becoming darker, riper and richer with notes of black cherry, cinnamon and ginger. On the palate, it was angular yet juicy with dark red fruits, hints of citrus and inner floral tones. The momentum faded a bit on the finish, showing youthful tannin and hints of dried cherry. (92 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino – The nose was restrained in a youthful, closed up, fashion, showing young red berry, herbal and soil tones. There was a savory feel and excellent tension on the palate as red berry, cedar and tobacco notes washed over the senses. The finish showed hints of structure with spiced cherry lingering throughout. (91 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Pinino Brunello di Montalcino – The nose was restrained at first, yet it opened with time in the glass as notes of tart red berry, hints of menthol and floral perfumes filled the senses. On the palalte, it was juicy with a fenimen, light-bodied structure with red fruits and herbal hints. It finished clean with palate-cleansing acidity. (90 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed sweet spice, red berry and wood spice, turning darker and more inviting with time in the glass, morphing to tobacco notes. On the palate, ripe red fruits and spice rushed the senses, yet it was lacking any serious depth and structure. The finish followed suit with tart berry flavors clinging to the palate. (89 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Brunelli Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed ripe and spicy red fruits with an outward and almost sexy personality. On the palate, it was juicy with ripe cherry and spice, yet there was a sweetness here that detracted from my expectations. The finish was clean with pleasantly fresh red fruits. I enjoyed this, but it lacked the stuffing I associate with Brunello. (88 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Pian Delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed sweet, almost candied, red fruits, black licorice and brown sugar. On the palate, ripe black cherry and hints of citrus washed across the senses with a slight tannic tug. The finish was fresh and lively with mouthwatering, spicy red fruits. Yet, as much as I enjoyed this wine on the palate, the nose was simply too sweet for my tastes. (88 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Le Macioche Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed sour red berries, cedar and hints of herbs. On the palate, it was light-bodied with tart cherry and dry spices. A coating of dry berry remained throughout the finish, yet I craved more intensity. (87 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

The Italian Wine Masters: 2007 Brunello di Montalcino

When word of the Italian Wine Masters tasting hit my inbox, I was quick to hit the reply button. In the years I’ve been writing and attending tastings, I don’t recall ever attending a more comprehensive tasting of Sangiovese-based wines from Tuscany. Everything from Chianti Classico, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Brunello di Montalcino are all on display. Many of the faces you see are easily recognizable, yet each time I attend, I’m always happy to find new producers and interesting wines that I have never tasted before.

A massive crowd descended upon the
tables of 2007 Brunello di Montalcino

One of my first priorities at this year’s event was to taste 2007 Brunello. The hype over this vintage has been unavoidable. Already the pundits of wine criticism are weighing in and waxing praise upon the vintage. However, I had to wonder if it was truly worthy. Brunello has seen a string of amazing vintages with 2001, 2004 and 2006. However, many people are still recovering from the recent controversy unearthed regarding foreign varietals being added to this wine by a number of Brunello producers, a wine that is only supposed to be 100% Sangiovese by law. Even though the accusations have subsided, Brunellogate, (which this controversy has coined) left many Brunello drinkers feeling betrayed and looking to other Sangiovese-based wines from Tuscany. On top of that, further exploration of pure Sangiovese-based wines in Tuscany has shown that remarkable value can be found outside of Montalcino. Brunello as a brand has continued to rise in price, and many feel that the quality in the bottle no longer outweighs the cost.

In the end, Brunello needs a vintage that it can reinvent itself with, and 2007 may be that vintage. But does that mean that it is as good as the ’06? It really depends on what you want from your bottle of Brunello.

At this time last year, when tasting ’06 Brunello, it was nearly painful to work my way through the tasting simply because of the massive structure found in most bottles. The fruit was clean, pure and deep but not fleshy. The finish was often drying or angular. Yet, on the nose, the wines were highly expressive and layered with masses of fruit, spice and earth—everything a young Brunello should be. We will be enjoying the ’06 vintage for many decades to come, and as they mature, they will only get better.

However, the ’07s are the exact opposite. I don’t recall ever tasting young Brunello that was so vibrant and juicy on the palate. The noses on most of the wines were highly expressive and very ripe. On the palate, they were juicy and opulent, yet not overripe. Their structure could be found in the close or on the second sip, as a build-up of tannins would remind you that this wine has the capacity to age. Yet, through it all, you’d find yourself simply wanting to drink it, and that’s where I believe the ’07 vintage will really find its nitch. These are big and beautiful wines, but it’s almost impossible to keep your hands off them now. However, the ’07 vintage will not outlive ’06, and if it’s classic Brunello that you love, you will not find it here.

My top 5 picks: 2007 Brunello di Montalcino

Azienda Agricola Capanna

The Capanna farm is located north of Montalcino in the area of Montosoli. It’s a family-run operation with help from consulting enologist Paolo Vagaggini. The grapes are hand-selected and harvested, with four years of aging in Slavonian oak cask for the Brunello and five years for the Riserva. The Brunello of Capanna is traditional in style and truly speaks of its Tuscan terroir.

2007 Capanna Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed black cherry, plums, sweet and spices with savory notes of brown sauce and mountain herbs. On the palate, it was at first lean with mixed berries and herbs, but it filled out with time as the fruit turned darker yet focused with incredible depth, balance and with a fine tannic structure. It’s remarkably more open than expected at this young stage, yet its balance and structure promised a long life ahead. (93 points)

Donatella Cinelli Colombini

Donatella is a large operation and it produces wines in multiple styles, both in and outside of Montalcino. The vineyards are located in the northwest from Montalcino. The Brunello is made at Casato Prime Donno in Montalcino, a winery known to be the first in Italy to be staffed only by women. The base-level Brunello is an enjoyable yet more modern style of Brunello. However, it’s the special selection “Prime Donne” that I love, which is made in a more traditional style with aging in large oak barrels.

2007 Donatella Brunello di Montalcino Prime Donne – The nose was finessed and classic in its performance with dusty red fruits, herbs and old cedar box. On the palate, it showed high-toned red berry fruit with an airy and fresh quality. The finish was long and pure with tannins peaking through at the close. (93 points)

Tenuta Oliveto

Located in Castelnuove dell’Adate, the extreme south of Montalcino, Tenuta Oliveto was a new name to me at last year’s Italian Wine master’s event. However, this year, their wines sang. I actually found it hard to move away from the glass. Vinification takes place in Slavonian oak vats with a maceration of 18 – 20 days. From there, the Brunello sees 30 months in French oak tonneaux before being bottled and rested for another 30 months. Their Brunello is an elegant and wistful wine with soaring aromatics.

2007 Tenuta Oliveto Brunello di Montalcino – The refined nose showed red berries, airy herbal notes and powdered sugar. On the palate, it was velvety yet structured and focused with juicy black cherry and herbs. On the finish, sour berries lingered yet were turned juicy by this wine’s zesty acidity. This wine was a joy to drink. (93 points)

Il Poggione

Father and son team Fabrizio and Alessandro Bindocci make some of the best Brunello from year to year, with the belief that the secret of producing great red wines lies in tending the vines. Rigorous green harvesting is done throughout the vineyards, and selection of the grapes is done by hand. The Brunello is aged in large French oak barrels. Il Poggione is one of the largest estates in Montalcino, with 125 hectares planted with vines, yet the size of the estate never hinders the quality found in the bottle.

2007 Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed ripe strawberry, cedar and minerals with a hint of caramel. On the palate, it was soft and mouth-filling with dark red fruits, baker’s chocolate and a fine structure that was nearly masked by its ripe, focused fruit. The finish was long, long, long. (92 points)

Col d’Orcia

Col d’Orcia is one of historic properties in Brunello and one of the largest producers. The vineyards are located on the southern slope of Montalcino with 106 hectares planted to Brunello. The Bozzolino vineyard produces their Brunello di Montalcino. Aging of the wine takes place in Slavonian and selected French oak.

2007 Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed vibrant, lush red fruits, spices and herbs. On the palate, it was round yet focused with intense ripe cherry and spice notes. The finish was cut short by youthful tannins yet showed much promise. (91 points)

Other Brunelli tasted for this article

2007 Donatella Brunello di Montalcino – The nose was earthy yet elegant with ripe red berries and forest floor. On the palate, it was velvety with underlying structure and intense yet juicy red berry fruit. The finish was long and clinging to the palate. (92 points)

2007 Campogiovanni (San Felice) Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed black cherry, floral notes, sweet spice and the slightest hint of barnyard. On the palate, it had a velvety texture with ripe red berries and cinnamon spice. The finish showed its tannic structure yet still managed to carry red fruits into the close. (91 points)

2007 Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino – The nose was classic and earthy with ripe red berries, soil and minerals. On the palate, it was lean yet focused with strawberry and cedar box. It appeared smaller in scale than most of the ‘07s I’d tasted yet finessed, pure and likely able to mature into something beautiful. The finish was long, showing massive structure. (91 points)

2007 Azienda Agraria Lisini Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed red berries and spice with pepper and floral notes. On the palate, it was balanced with ripe fruits and a fine elegant structure. The finish was firm, and when placed against it’s intensity of fruit, showed good potential. (90 points)

2007 Fanti (Tenuta San Filippo) Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed ripe red berries with herbal tea and floral notes. On the palate, it showed intense red fruits and herbs that lingered through the finish. (90 points)

2007 Pian Delle Vigne (Antinori) Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed ripe berries, wood tones and spice with a hint of undergrowth. On the palate, it was lush with sour red berries and mountain herbs. The finish was long and mouth-coating. (89 points)

2007 Pertimali (Livio Sassetti) Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed strawberry fruit with undergrowth, soil and herbs. On the palate, it was soft and enveloping with red berries and spice. The finish showed a tight structure with soil and red fruit tones. (89 points)

2007 Frescobaldi Castelgiocando Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed vibrant red fruits and menthol. On the palate, it was lean with sour red berries, leading into a drying, structured finish. (88 points)

2007 Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed sour red berries and sweet spice in a bittersweet performance. On the palate, red berries and herbs were on display, yet it came across and one-dimensional and ultimately disappointing through the finish. (85 points)

2007 Fattoria dei Barbi (Colombini) Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed sour berries and herbs but it was marked by a server aroma of hay and stable. On the palate, it was soft with strawberry fruits but turned bitter and dry into the finish. (84 points)

2007 Capanne Ricci Brunello di Montalcino – The nose showed dried red fruits, funk, manure and old wood. On the palate, it was juicy, showing sweet strawberry, which lasted into the finish. (84 points)