A Vinous Evolution: 2010 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

By: Eric Guido

As we dig a little deeper into Tuscany and the many expressions of Sangiovese, we come to one of the most famous DOCGs in Tuscany: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. However, as famous as the name may be, and as far back as its origins may go (789), Vino Nobile has suffered over the last few decades. The reasons are various, but one that has always seemed to make the most sense is that, for a time, the producers lost focus and became idol, selling their wine on the value of its name alone. Those days are far behind us now, yet Vino Nobile still struggles to compete with consumer dollars against Chianti Classico and Brunello, and that is a shame. This became painfully apparent when shopping for these wines, which was not as easy as you would expect, living in one of the biggest cities in the world.

However difficult they were to find, in the end, they are worth the hunt. At a tasting some three years ago, I was fortunate enough to be treated to a tasting of vintage Vino Nobile. Most were from 2001, at the time with nine years of maturity under their belts. This tasting also included a large selection of Brunello and top shelf Chianti Classico Riservas. To say that Vino Nobile held its own would be an understatement--the wines were gorgeous, and I was suddenly a believer.


What separates Vino Nobile from other Tuscan reds starts with a unique clone of Sangiovese, named Prugnolo Gentile. Characteristically, it's often described as having a slightly lower level of acidity than your typical Sangio from Chianti and softer tannins than a Brunello. This along with the gentle, rolling slopes of Montepulciano (allowing more sunlight) and sandier, more alluvial soils, which benefits growth, helps the grapes to ripen easier (a constant issue with Sangiovese). This places Vino Nobile in a category all it's own, something of a happy middle ground.

The blending rules of Vino Nobile require a minimum of 70% Sangiovese, with up to 30% other varieties permitted. Many producers today have chosen to use traditional Tuscan grapes to fill out the blend, such as Mammolo (which lends a note of violet to the bouquet), Canaiolo Nero and Colorino. However, you will find a number of wines blended with other international varieties, such as Merlot. Two years of aging are required for Vino Nobile (three for Riservas), and producers have the choice to use large botti or small barrels. What is truly exciting to me is the current trend of adding more Sangiovese and aging less in new wood. The results are wines of beautiful varietal character and purity, which showcase the engaging structure and juicy acidity of these wines.

Over the last few years, I’ve delved more and more into Vino Nobile, but nowhere does the increase in quality and changes in winemaking styles show so dramatically than in the 2010 vintage. Typically, I enjoy Vino Nobile after a year or two following release, or four to five years post-vintage; yet in 2010, there’s an open-knit feel to the structure of these wines, which plays beautifully into the mix of lush fruit and vibrant acidity. They have a “drink me now” personality, but these wines will age. Don’t let their early appeal fool you; the structure is there, but what counts even more is the balance that these wines demonstrate. I will be adding a number of these to my cellar.

On to The Wines:

2010 Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano - The nose was floral, strong yet graceful, with a bouquet of ripe cherry, strawberry, potpourri and a sweet Tuscan dustiness. It entered the palate focused with wonderful verve, as fresh red fruits were ushered in by juicy acidity. Notes of cinnamon spice, cedar and hints of mountain herbs formed toward the close and lasted into the finish. As its flavors tapered off, fine tannin remained behind, tugging at the senses. This was enjoyable now, with energy to spare, and should improve or years to come. (92 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher! (avg. $29)

2010 Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano - The nose showed tart cherry and black currant, with mountain herbs, minerals, dark coca and the slightest hint oak. On the palate, it was angular at first, giving more with time in the glass as it resolved into a soft yet acid-driven and vibrant expression of Sangiovese. Flavors of tart berry, savory reduction sauce and stone laden minerals flowed into the finish, as fine tannins pulled at the senses, leaving hints of espresso and cherry. (91 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher! (avg. $29)

2010 Azienda Agricola Dei Vino Nobile di Montepulciano - The nose was fruity and intense with tart cherry, cranberry, along with hints of citrus peel, herbs and cedar. On the palate, it was soft yet with enough juicy acidity to keep it engaging. Ripe red fruits with hints of cinnamon and dried herbs danced around the palate, even if a tad short; it left tart cherry and hints of spice on the finish. This wine truly dazzled me for its honest red fruits and juicy personality. It’s also a good value. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher! (avg. $23)

2010 Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano - The nose was suave with masses of black cherry, dark chocolate, floral perfumes and a hint of rich strawberry jam. It entered like velvet on the palate, giving flavors of spiced cherry, cedar and mineral notes, all kept fresh by balanced acidity and a sheen of well-managed oak. The medium-long finish was dry with concentrated red fruit extracts, black licorice and a hint of dark coco. (89 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher! (avg. $26)

2010 Fattoria del Cerro Vino Nobile di Montepulciano - The nose showed candied cherry, autumnal spices, floral violet tones, undergrowth and hints of wet minerals. On the palate it was lean yet juicy with ripe red berry, cedar and espresso. The balance leaned toward acidity, making this a great pairing at the dinner table but a little hard to comprehend on its own. The finish turned dry, leaving red berry soaked tannin coating the senses. (87 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher! (avg. $19)




Related articles at The V.I.P. Table:
New found love for Vino Nobile
“The Italian Wine Masters,” Part 3 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Producer Spotlight: Crociani

Fine Dining Any Day? Penne alla Vodka

With a perfect pairing to match!
A recipe & pairing by: Eric Guido

I've posted quite a few recipes that could take from an hour to six hours of preparation and usually with a decent hit to the wallet. So I got to thinking about the average person or aspiring cook in this busy day and age. I know that entertaining can be laborious and often expensive, but what if you could make a pasta plate that could stand tall next to anything a restaurant has to offer and do it in under a half hour from start to finish? Then, what if I told you it could cost less than $30 to feed a party of four? Seems too good to be true? Well it’s not; it’s Penne alla Vodka.

Rule of thumb: If you're not willing
to drink it, don't cook with it.

Penne alla Vodka is not a traditional Italian preparation and searching for its roots leads to a wealth of disinformation and theories. What is fact is that ages ago it was realized that alcohol can help to bring out flavors in tomatoes that cannot otherwise be obtained through any other preparation. This is often why a red sauce will include wine in its list of ingredients. Not only does it help to bring out these flavors but it also imparts its own qualities to the sauce.

Penne alla Vodka is a balancing act of flavors. The sweet sautéed garlic and onions play against the woodsy and smoky pancetta. The crushed red pepper provides a heat that is kept in check by the addition of heavy cream, which also rounds out any rough edges left behind by the vodka. The tomatoes take center stage providing a deep, fresh, succulent tomato flavor that, I find, can only be achieved in this dish. Lastly, the basil grounds you in reality with an earthy, vegetal mistiness, which brings it all together… God I love Penne alla Vodka!

See the Tasting Note Below

As for the wine, pairing with this dish can be tricky. It's a rich, cream based, tomato sauce so you'd think that any high acid red would do the trick. However, there's a spiciness to this dish that would react badly to anything high in tannin or alcohol. This led me to think of Sangiovese, but not just any Sangiovese, something from a warmer climate than the typical Chianti. This train of thought brought me to the Maremma and Morellino di Scansano. Add in the garnish of pancetta, which is a great accompaniment to oak influence, and you have Morellino di Scansano Riserva.

This is truly fine dinning in your home without the price tag or the hassle. Enjoy!


Penne alla Vodka
Serves 4 - 5 guests

A note on the ingredients: Try to find San Marzano tomatoes imported from Italy. Believe it or not there are domestic brands that try to trick you with tomatoes of inferior quality and a completely different taste. Also, using penne “rigate” (instead of regular penne) is important because the texture holds the sauce to the penne. Lastly, an entire bottle of vodka is not included in the cost of the recipe and since it is only a ¼ cup, use the good stuff if you’ve got it. Remember, your food is primarily the sum of your ingredients.

28 oz can San Marzano tomatoes
5 cloves minced garlic
½ cup yellow onion cut into fine dice
½ cup pancetta small dice
¼ cup vodka
¾ cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano
1 cup heavy cream
1 - 2 tbls olive oil
1/4 - 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (depending on your preference for spice)
1 pound penne rigate
8 fresh basil leaves cut chiffonade (This should not be done until the end of the cooking process.)
salt and pepper

While bringing a pot of salted water to a boil, measure out and prepare your ingredients.

Pour the tomatoes into a bowl and, with your hands, break up the tomatoes into small pieces. Remove any skins if they were left on the tomatoes.

In a large saucepan, pour in olive oil and set to medium flame. When the oil begins to shimmer, add the pancetta and cook until browned (about 4 minutes). Remove the pancetta from the pan and reserve as a garnish for later.

Add the onion and garlic to the pan and season well with salt. It is also at this time that you should add the pasta to the boiling water and set the timer for 1 minute short of the recommended cooking time. Cook the onion and garlic until translucent (about 2 minutes).

Raise heat to medium high, add the red pepper flakes to the pan and stir. Pull the pan from the stove (away from the flame) and add the vodka. Place back on the stove and add the tomatoes. Stir well to combine.

You should stir regularly as the sauce cooks over the medium high flame. Make sure that it does not begin to burn on the pan bottom. If the sauce appears to be reducing too quickly, lower the flame to medium.

About the same time that the pasta is done, add the cream to the sauce and stir to combine. Season the vodka sauce with salt and pepper to taste. Drain your pasta completely and quickly rinse out the pot and dry.

Pour the pasta back into the pot and add ½ cup of the grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and half of the brown pancetta. Stir them into the pasta and then pour the sauce into the pot. Move the pot onto a medium flame and continue cooking for one minute. Remove from the heat and stir well.

Allow the pasta and sauce to sit in the pot for two more minutes, stirring from time to time. This allows the pasta to absorb and integrate with the sauce. While the pasta is resting, cut your basil.

Stir one last time and ladle the pasta onto warmed plates. Dress with basil chiffonade, browned pancetta and a sprinkle of grated Parmigiano Reggiano. Clean the rims of your plates with a warm, moist towel and serve.

2008 Mantellassi Morellino di Scansano Riserva Le Sentinelle - The nose showed intense black cherry with a dusting of sweet spice and purple and blue floral tones with an earthy, mineral core. On the palate it was velvety and rich with ripe dark fruits, yet juicy throughout, showing off it’s brisk Sangiovese acidity. Notes of plum, cocoa, spiced apple and lavender, all made an appearance and lasted through the finish, with silky tannins, which were nearly imperceptible. This wine was suave and poised, with just enough structure to keep me coming back for more. (92 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

Pyramid Valley: In Search of Something More...

A local retailer, showcasing 12 different New Zealand
Sauvignon Blanc, with only one Pinot Noir.

Only a few years ago, when I thought of New Zealand, I thought only of Sauvignon Blanc. This is not rare, as the wines speak for themselves, and the variety outnumbers all others in the region on retailers’ shelves. My interest in these wines spurred me to dig a little deeper, to start learning more about this country’s wines and what made them so special. I quickly realized that there are many varietals that I love being made, and made well, in New Zealand. I was delving into crisp Riesling that rivaled my favorites from Germany, Gewürztraminer of stunning depth and mineral core and, of course, Pinot Noir like I had never seen.

These weren’t the bone-dry pinots of Burgundy that would take a decade to understand, nor were they the overripe fruit bombs of California. These Pinots fell into a category all their own, with perfectly ripe fruit and a juicy, thriving structure that was complemented by mineral, stone, soil—earth. I was at once in love with the style that seemed to walk a middle ground between austerity and hedonism. That was when I found Pyramid Valley Vineyards.

Just when I thought my infatuation could go no further, a force of nature reinvigorated me. Two Pinots that were made under strict natural, biodynamic principals came under my microscope. Two wines made with the least possible amount of human intervention and then bottled with only trace amounts of sulfur. They inspired me to write, “Pyramid Valley: A Genie in a bottle”.

Story over, right? Wrong!

While researching the vineyards of Pyramid Valley and history of its owners/winemakers Mike and Claudia Weersing, I came across a line of wines that truly excited me, The Grower’s Collection.

The Grower's Collection is a series of wines that represents individual growers, varieties and vineyards from New Zealand, all in the fashion of Pyramid Valley Vineyards. It showcases the terroir and varietal expressions of each location with small blocks of fruit and in some cases very rare varieties. As I started to taste through these, the first thing that struck me was how incredibly natural these tasted. The wines are certainly in the style of Pyramid Valley with naturally occurring / stopping fermentations, no filtering and little to no sulfur. But these wines aren't just good; they don't just have wonderful aromatic bouquets and amazing juiciness on the palate. These wines actually taste--healthy. They seem to somehow nurture you, like juice from some unknown fruit that has just been discovered.

I know this may sound a little over the top, but I can think of no better way to explain them. The best recommendation I can make is to taste them for yourself.

The Cab Franc, my tasting note could
have just read, "God, I love this wine"

2009 Pyramid Valley Cabernet Franc Growers Collection Howell Family Vineyard - The nose was deep, rich and vibrant with sweet cherry, cinnamon spice, wild herbs and stony minerals providing an earthy canvas to it all. On the palate, it was medium-bodied, juicy and fresh with sweet, bright cherry, citrus peel, exotic spice and a core of brisk acidity. Hints of tannin lingered on the palate, reminding me that this is wine and more than just a delicious beverage. It was a highly enjoyable Cab Franc that I will look for going forward. (92 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Pyramid Valley Pinot Noir Growers Collection Cowley Family Vineyard - The color in the glass was a bit cloudy with a light ruby red hue. The nose was seductive yet earthy and sweet, showing intense cherry preserve, a whiff of crushed stone, hints of bell pepper, and dry dusty soil. On the palate, ripe cherry was met by minty herbal tones, with silky textures perfectly contrasted by a hint of bitter tannin. The finish remained fresh and lively, showing ground pepper, spice and red berries.

Upon first opening, I was worried that this wine had been exposed to excessive heat. It was almost impenetrable, and so I put it aside. I'm glad I did so, because within two hours it came to life, softened and evolved, turning into what can only be described as a gorgeous pinot rooted in the earth. What's more; its cherry component was beautiful, seeming almost impossibly natural. It's a lovely wine. (91 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

Another spectacular wine, truly
unique and inspired winemaking.

2007 Pyramid Valley Sémillon Growers Collection Hille Vineyard - The nose was truly fascinating and kept me coming back to the glass again and again with an intense floral bouquet, showing honey, peach, almond paste, salty minerals and bell pepper. Yet somehow, all of this made me think of spring, sitting in a flower garden with soil stained hands. On the palate, it was fresh and electric upon entry with notes of peach, inner florals, and spice. A lull followed on the mid-palate, but was quickly replaced by a pop of tart lime-kiwi acidity, which kept this interesting throughout. It was impeccably balanced and wonderfully unique, a wine that I will look for again. (91 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2010 Pyramid Valley Savagnin Rose Growers Collection Twin Valleys Vineyard - The extroverted nose showed a bouquet of pineapple, melon, honeycomb, and spice with hints of floral funk and undergrowth. On the palate it was silky smooth with sweet, spicy peach. It showed great presence and perfect balance followed by a hint of citrus, which lasted through the long, saturating finish that seemed to cling to the palate like fruit nectar. (89 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!