Exploring The Classics of Piedmont

Early on in my journey to understanding wine, I realized that there was something about the Nebbiolo grape that captivated me. It was something about its purity, mixed with the multidimensional layers or fruit, florals and earth that would develop over time. The difference between a young and old Barolo or Barbaresco (both made 100% from Nebbiolo) is so drastic, as the wine evolves over decades–not years–and transforms from an angular and austere expression into something so graceful, feminine, soft, and giving. Sometimes you don’t even need to taste these wines to receive the gratification you desire, because their bouquet can be so remarkably beautiful, haunting, alluring and satiating that the sip is only the completion of the experience, before returning to the glass for another aromatic exploration.

Nebbiolo also has the ability to teleport your imagination by communicating terroir so transparently. This is the same reason that so many collectors find their way to Pinot Noir in Burgundy, and why the two grapes are often compared to each other. You’ll find very little in common between Nebbiolo and Pinot Noir, other than their earthy and floral natures, but it is absolute that both will speak more about the places from which they came than most other grapes do. It’s because of this that the trend of single-vineyard or Cru wines became so popular in Barolo and Barbaresco, and even when a producer blends different vineyards together, you can often find the telltale signs of how one site lent the wine its power, another its spice, and another its structure. A lover of fine details, hidden traits, an explorer, or even those who enjoy nearly incalculable equations will find a lot to like in the variety.

When you add the many different styles of winemaking to this mix, the complexities of Barolo and Barbaresco grow deeper. I found myself saying that I preferred the traditionally-styled wines of the region, macerated for long periods of time on the skins and aged in large neutral oak. Yet I must confess that over time, my mind has been opened to a large number of producers who create wines that are considered “modern” yet made with a soft touch. In fact, the only “modern” barolo I would turn my nose up at today would be one that leaned hard toward drastically reduced yields in the vineyards and a large percentage of new oak. Because if I’ve learned anything in over a decade of tasting these wines, it’s that the lines between modern and traditional have blurred so deeply, that only a small number of producers can now be considered a hardliner in one direction or other. Also, there are some great wines from the past that were made in a “modern” style that are simply irresistible today.

Speaking of winemakers, Nebbiolo also has a way of inciting as much passion in its producers as in the people who buy them. Passion is what drives many wine lovers, and to think that there is someone on the other side of growing, raising and bottling these wines, who shares a similar passion–is a remarkable feeling. In Piedmont, most winemakers are also the same people who care for the vines in the vineyard (another similarity to Burgundy). These aren’t business people who wear fancy suits or designer clothes to work; they are farmers. Most of them can trace their vine-growing roots back generations, and their face will often light up when presented with a wine that their father, grandfather or older generation produced. Of course, this is slowly changing in Piedmont, as outside investment threatens to buy up its vineyards, but that’s a story for another blog.

Our Very Own Piedmont Classics Dinner

With all of that said, the only way to truly understand all of these differences is to taste, which is absolutely the most enjoyable part of this hobby (obsession) that I share with a wonderful community of fellow worshippers of the Nebbiolo grape. Often we’ve done this through vertical tasting (multiple vintages of different or the same producer to understand vintage characteristics). Sometimes through horizontal tasting (one vintage of the same or multiple producers). We’ve even pitted two producers against each other in a traditional-versus-modern showdown. However, what moved me to words today was our most recent tasting, and one of the best we’ve ever embarked on.

Being that our group was started on the Vinous forums, we thought that we would borrow an idea from Antonio Galloni and create our own version of his Piedmont Classics dinner. Why not? This is a group of collectors who each have deep cellars of Nebbiolo going back decades. The tasting was organized into four flights by producer. In most cases, each flight had at least one bottle with significant age and a few with moderate to even youthful wines. (Which is funny when you consider that the youngest bottle on the table was ten years old–but this is Nebbiolo we’re talking about.) The producers we settled on were Giacomo Conterno, Bruno Giacosa, Marcarini, and Brovia–all undeniable classics. Plus, we were treated to a blind tasting addition from Cappellano. The venue was La Pizza Fresca, owned, operated–and on this night even manning the brick-fire oven–by Brad Bonnewell (a fellow Cavalieri del Tartufo e dei Vini di Alba).

It was a study of producer, a study of terroir, a study of vintage, a brick-oven pizza exploration… and one hell of a good time.

On To The Tasting Notes

Surprise Blind Bottle: Cappellano

I had no idea going into the tasting that I would be treated to a 70-year-old Barolo, which was a true testament to the staying power and nobility of Nebbiolo It makes sense that the producer would be Cappellano. At that time, they were one of the biggest names in the region with some 60 hectares, as well as one of the largest purchasers of grapes. Even with this tremendous production, the name stood for undeniable quality, which is something that has not changed to this day. Bottles of Cappellano from the ‘50s, ‘60s and on to today are always a welcome addition to any tasting.

1947 Cappellano Super Barolo – This was served blind, and what a treat it was. The ‘47 “Super” Barolo was completely mature yet gorgeous, with a bouquet of cigar box, dried flowers, dusty dry spices, and dark soil tones. On the palate, I found pure, lifted sweet red fruits with zesty acidity, minerals and inner florals. It finished long and spicy with ripe yet dried red fruits and lingering sweet minerality. Wow, what an experience. (93 points)

Flight 1: Giacomo Conterno

We’re looking back 47 years at a time before Giacomo Conterno even owned the vineyard that defines them today: Cascina Francia. In fact, the ‘70 Barolo that was labeled Cascina Francia was due to a lapse in time between bottling, labeling and shipping. It isn’t a Cascina Francia at all (they didn’t own the vineyard at that time), but that didn’t stop it from being one of my wines of the night. At that time, the fruit would have come from a source in Monforte, but little else is known. Another highlight from this night’s flight was a peek into some recent vintages that are coming along very nicely as well.

1970 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva – Here I found a dark display of mature Nebbiolo, complemented by layers of earthy, savory aromas. Dried leaves, dusty old spices, and hints of roasted meat wafted up from the glass, yet it remained feminine and pure throughout the experience. On the palate, a soft and inviting textural display gave way to tart red fruits with lifting acidity that created an almost-mouthwatering experience. It finished with saturating tart berry tones, earthy soil tones and lingering undergrowth. (95 points)

1971 Giacomo Conterno Barolo – Where the ‘70 Barolo Riserva was all about feminine grace, the ‘71 instead showed the muscular and attractive gritty side of Nebbiolo. Here I found a rich and dark display with tart red berries up front, followed by animal musk, dried flowers and dark soil tones. It was soft on the palate, with mouth-filling textures which seemed to touch upon all of the senses, as notes of sweet dried red fruits, hints of spice, and minerals prevailed. The finish was long with sour berries, undergrowth and crushed stone. This would have scored higher if there was more clarity or a bump of acidity on the palate, but the fact is that the ‘70 is in fine form and drinking beautifully. (94 points)

2000 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia – Having never been a big fan of the vintage, the 2000 Giacomo Conterno shows some of its telltale drawbacks, yet it manages to be incredibly enjoyable all the same. Here I found a rich, dark bouquet with crushed cherry, brown spices and dried flowers, yet the wine lacked momentum. On the palate, it displayed silky textures contrasted by intense tart red fruits, inner spice and sweet tannins. The finish was saturating with red fruits, yet it was soft and only medium in length. (92 points)

2007 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia – While the 2000 did the best it could in a warm vintage, the 2007 excelled with it. The nose was intense with dusty spices, saline minerals, a hint of savory tomato leaf and notes of undergrowth. It showed silky, enveloping textures with intense dark red fruits, which turned slightly tart as youthful tannin began to saturate the senses. Savory minerality and spice persisted throughout the finish, with a cheek-puckering twang of tart fruit and hints of savory herbs. The density here is formidable, nearly masking its young tannin, but the underlying structure should guarantee the 2007 a long life. Very nice. (95 points)

Flight 2: Bruno Giacosa

There is really only one way to follow up a flight of Giacomo Conterno, and that’s with a flight of Bruno Giacosa. What was really amazing were the similarities found throughout each of these wines, a combination of the winemakers stamp and terroir. Picking favorites here was like splitting hairs, and what it really came down to was the level of drinkability from bottle to bottle. However, scoring-wise, it was the potential mixed with the performance that won out the day.

2001 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto di Serralunga d’Alba – The ‘01 Falletto showed all of the classic hallmarks of the vintage married to the Giscosa style. The bouquet was lifted and pure with a sweet-and-sour persona, as spicy black cherry mixed with sweet herbs and hints of savory tomato leaf. On the palate, I found silky textures that were quickly offset by a combination of dusty minerals and crystalline tannin, as tense, youthful crisp red fruits were ushered across the senses by brisk acidity. The finish was long, showing its youthful tannin with saturating tart red fruits. We still have a ways to go before the ‘01 is in its perfect drinking window, but this night’s bottle was enjoyable on potential alone. (94 points)

2004 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto di Serralunga d’Alba – You should be very pleased with yourself if you have the ‘04 Falletto in your cellar. Here I found a gorgeous display of rich black cherry and cranberry, with notes of holiday spice, sweet florals, crushed stone minerality and mint. It was silky on the palate with enveloping, soft, ripe spiced cherry fruit, juicy acidity and the sweetest of sweet tannin. The finish was long, showing the first signs of youthful structure with saturating spice and dried cherry tones lingering on. (96 points)

1999 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Le Rocche del Falletto di Serralunga d’Alba – I’ve been lucky to taste the ‘99 Le Rocche on multiple occasions, as each time it has been stunning. The nose was radiant in its cool, dark red fruit, with raspberry and black cherry, as well as hints of plum. Rosy florals tones, dusty spice and minerals joined the fray with time in the glass. On the palate, I found a refined and structured expression, with black cherry, inner floral, mineral tones and crunchy youthful tannin. The finish was long with palate-coating spiced cherry, sweet inner florals, spice and hints of lingering undergrowth. (96 points)

1996 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Falletto di Serralunga d’Alba – The ‘96 Falletto showed youthfully restrained, yet it was impossible to ignore on its potential alone. The nose was cool and minty, with notes of black cherry, dusty dried floral tones, licorice and hints of smoke. On the palate, I found an angular expression with depths of dark red fruit and minerals, as fine tannin kept everything in check. The finish was long with saturating tannin, lingering spice, dried inner-florals and mineral tones. (96 points)

Flight 3: Marcarini

Speaking of the classics of Piedmont is not possible without including Marcarini in the conversation. Following a large vertical tasting many years ago, my eyes were opened to this traditional producer, who still manages to fly comfortably under the radar. As you look back to older vintages, the name Cogno is often proudly emblazoned across the label, which is the same man who would go on to create the Elvio Cogno winery that has earned an elevated position in Piedmont today. These are classic, traditionally-styled wines that represent a similar mix of value and quality that we find from vintage Produttori del Barbaresco.

1968 Marcarini Barolo Brunate – Following a flight on unbelievable Giacosa Barolo isn’t easy, but the ‘68 Marcarini Brunate held its own. Here I found a perfectly mature and remarkably pretty expression of Nebbiolo fruit with dried floral tones up front giving way to dusty soil, hints of brown spice and faded cherry. On the palate, I found a soft and feminine display with zesty acidity giving life to its dried red fruits, along with earth tones and minerals. It was shorter on the finish than I had hoped yet cleaned up very nicely with a twang of tart red fruit and lingering florality. (93 points)

1973 Marcarini Barolo Brunate Riserva – The nose showed dark dried red berries with sweet florals and a hint of leather. On the palate, I found zesty expression, yet rich enough to the impression of weight, showing bright red berries, earth and minerals. It finished long and balanced with lingering mineral and dried cherry tones. (91 points)

1974 Marcarini Barolo Brunate – The nose showed dark dried berry tones, followed by animal musk, crushed fall leaves, earth tones, and dusty spice. On the palate, it was airy and lifted with great acidity, showing tart red berries with a savory edge and earthy minerality. The finish was long and earthy, with inner floral tones lasting throughout. I’ve always been a fan of the ‘74 vintage, and this Marcarini was a textbook example of why I love them so much. Simply a great drinking wine and vintage. (92 points)

1999 Marcarini Barolo Brunate – The ‘99 Brunate is full of potential, showing a classic, traditional nose, with dried red fruits, pine nettles, licorice, medicinal herbs, and sweet florals. On the palate, it was feminine and slightly firm, with saturating tart berry tones, leather, spice and youthful tannin. It finished beautiful and long, displaying earth tones, dried spices and inner florals. This wine is only just starting to approach its drinking window, and I see many decades of positive evolution ahead for it. (93 points)

Flight 4: Brovia

The house of Brovia has undergone many changes over the last thirty years, as Elena and Cristina Brovia took the reins from their father. Quality was said to have steadily improved through that time, and even more in 2001, when Alex Sanchez joined the family. The exciting thing about this night’s tasting was the ability to taste the ‘79 Rio Sordo–a wine made by the previous generation–next to three wines that represent that period of change. The fact that the ‘79 ended up being my wine of the flight has more to do with its perfect maturity, while the ‘96 Ca’Mia technically scored higher.

1979 Fratelli Brovia Barbaresco Rio Sordo – The bouquet was stunning, showing dusty spices, earth, undergrowth and a hint of iodine, before notes of dried cherry and floral tones began to develop in the glass. On the palate, I found soft textures with zesty acidity giving way to minerals, spice and sweet and sour red fruits. The finish was medium in length, yet still zesty and fresh with dried berry tones, spices and lingering minerality. (93 points)

1995 Fratelli Brovia Barbaresco Rio Sordo – (Flawed–Badly)

1996 Fratelli Brovia Barbaresco Rio Sordo – The nose was dark and intense, showing dried cherry, dusty spices, smoke, and minerals upon minerals. On the palate, I found a silky expression with dark red fruits, classic ‘96-styled crunchy tannin, and earthy minerals. It finished long, as its young tannin saturated the senses, drying out the fruit and leaving an impressive of austerity. This was very good, but I do wonder if the fruit will outlive the tannins. (92 points)

1996 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Ca’Mia – The nose was dark, rich, mineral-laden–classic. Here I found a mix of dried cherry, raspberry, dusty spice, earthy minerality and moist soil tones. On the palate, silky textures were quickly offset by intense dark red fruits, with brisk acidity adding mineral lift and young tannin, which settled down hard on the senses. The finish was long and structured, even cheek-puckering, allowing hints of tart red fruit and minerals to linger. This wine was densely packed, with dark focused fruit wrapped in fine tannin with balancing acidity, which sounds like a recipe for success to me. I can’t wait to see where it’s going. (94 points)

Credits and Resources

Article, Tasting Notes, and Photos by: Eric Guido

Thank you to La Pizza Fresca and Brad Bonnewell

Don’t forget to check out one of the world’s great wine loving communities: Vinous Forums

1979: Barolo Retrospective

Drink ‘em if you got ‘em

Sometimes you just have to let go of the ghost. For years I’ve read about the ’79 Barolo vintage being the underdog that was foreshadowed by the towering ’78s. Many merchants have used this angle when offering this vintage to me. However, from my most recent tasting of ’79 Barolo, I think it’s time that we stop buying these and start drinking them.

The Roagna Barbaresco
Crichet Pajé. One of the strangest
performances of the night.

It’s unfortunate, but the majority of the bottles tasted have come as far as they can and are simply tired and dried out. The hallmark acidity of this vintage now rears its ugly head as the fruit fades, turns lean and penetrating flavors of citrus rind and pith coat the palate. Some of these were highly enjoyable, but I won’t be adding them to my cellar.

My favorites on this night were the Breze and Vietti Briacca. Both were formidable wines that have seen better days yet are fading with grace. In the end, if you own ’79 Barolo, you don’t need to run to the cellar right this minute, but it’s certainly time to consider drinking these wines.

On to the wines:

1979 Francesco Pittatore Barolo Ponte Rocca Brunate – The nose showed wet tobacco, sweet woodland notes with vibrant red berry and a hint of mint. On the palate, it was broad yet vibrant and light on its feet, showing soil covered red fruits and inner aromas of mushroom. The finish was long and feminine with staying red berry fruit and a hint of remaining structure. (90 points)

1979 Azienda Bricco Rocche (Ceretto) Barolo Brunate – The nose showed animal musk, dark fruits, crushed leaves, and intense floral notes. On the palate, it was rustic with lean dried fruits that turned juicy and were joined by notes of savory broth. This was still highly enjoyable, but with no upside potential, it should be drunk now. (87 points)

1979 Marcarini La Serra – On the nose, I found sweet beefy notes, spice, saline minerals and a mixture of floral, soil and undergrowth. On the palate, it was mouth-filling, showing citrus rinds and herbal tea leaf. The finish showed lots of acidity and citrus notes. (89 points)

1979 Cordero di Montezemolo Barolo Monfalletto – On the nose, I found a whiff of old library book, crushed cherry, tamarind and potpourri. On the palate, it was lean with vibrant acidity and rustic dried cherry fruits. The finish was long with mouth-coating fruit and inner aromas of medicinal herbs. (87 points)

1979 Vietti Barolo Briacca – The nose was intense with dark ripe strawberry, dried flowers, and medicinal herbs. On the palate, it was feminine and balanced with finessed, lean red fruit and citrus rinds. The finish was long and fresh showing sour berries. (91 points)

1979 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Rocche dei Brovia – The nose showed sweet, ripe red fruits, undergrowth and mushroom. On the palate, inner floral and undergrowth notes dominated, as this wines broad yet elegant texture opened up to reveal dark red fruits, both sweet and sour with vibrant acidity. (89 points)

1979 Azienda Bricco Rocche (Ceretto) Barolo Prapò – The nose was dark with rich red fruit, buttery tartlet crust, and herbs. On the palate, it was light on its feet and finessed, showing juicy red berries but turning chunky toward the finish and fading quickly. (85 points)

1979 Roagna Barbaresco Crichet Pajé – The nose showed horseradish, soil, and herbs. On the palate, it was vegetal, with pepper, herbs, citrus rinds and lots of acidity. The vegetal notes continued on the finish. It was certainly an interesting wine but honestly not enjoyable to drink. (80 points)

1979 Giacomo Brezza Figli Barolo Sarmassa e Castellero – The classically-styled nose showed tar, rose water, a slight spice, lots of floral notes and red berries. On the palate, it was rich and full with soft dried cherry fruit that turned juicy toward the close. This wine was easygoing on the palate and gorgeous on the nose. (91 points)

1979 Cantina Mascarello Barolo – On the nose, I found tangy, spicy floral notes, old library book and lean red berries. On the palate, intense but overripe fruit flooded the senses but dropped off quickly to reveal drying and mouth-puckering tannin. (84 points)

Marcarini Barolo: The Secret Is Out

A bottle I would have
loved to buy upon release.

There was a time when Barolo was cheap, at least by today’s standards. The escalation of Barolo prices was not just the result of inflation. The fact is that there was a time when the wonders of Barolo were only known to a small group of in-the-know wine lovers. Those lucky few built cellars full of some of today’s most collectible wines, and they did it with far less than what you need to stay in the game today.

Nov. 30th 2003 issue
of Wine Spectator

Much of this is due to the growth in popularity during the nineties and Wine Spectator declaring the 2000 vintage of Barolo, “Perfect.” The hype over the vintage in 2000 has now been shown to be unjustified, but the damage was done and the secret was out; Piedmont is producing some of the worlds most remarkable, ageworthy and collectible wines.

However, through all of this, there have been a small number of producers whose wines managed to fly under the radar, and with it, their prices remain very fair. Over time, the dividing line between quality and value has widened, but the conscientious wine lover can still find cellar-worthy, top notch Barolo at a good price. I just don’t know how much longer it can last.

Marcarini Barolo 1964 through 2007

This brings me to Marcarini and their Barolo Brunate. If you drink Barolo, the name Brunate should stand out to you, as it’s one of the most prestigious vineyards within the appellation. It is located at the southern boundary of La Morra with a small portion spilling into the commune of Barolo (the commune, not the wine itself). The Marcarini family is fortunate, as are we, that they have owned a portion of the Brunate vineyard for generations. When I entered the market six years ago, these wines were released at $35 a bottle and they were worth every penny. Now, at an average of $50, they are still a great buy, and a recent retrospective tasting of 12 vintages is all the evidence I need to show why.

Over time, little has changed at Marcarini. It’s a winery that is now run by its fifth generation. The winery itself is modern, but the winemaking is still very much traditional, with four-week long macerations on the skins and aging in medium-sized oak barrels of 20/40 hl. In the vineyards, the yields are low, and composting is organic with a strict selection of the grapes at harvest. Other than a replanting of the vines between 1980 and 1986, and the introduction of temperature-controlled fermentation, these wines are very much the same as what you’d receive in a bottle from 1964. Think of this as you read the notes below; I can’t think of a more ageable, traditional Barolo that I could recommend to you at a better price.

On to the notes:

1964 Marcarini Barolo
Brunate

1964 Marcarini Barolo Brunate – The nose showed sweet dark cherries in soil with crushed fall leaves and dank, moist undergrowth. On the palate, it was lively and clean with dry red fruits, minerals and citrus rind. The finish clung to the palate and left me in awe as I considered the age of this bottle and how well it performed. (94 points)

1967 Marcarini Barolo Brunate – On the nose, I found a bright expression of dried red berry with copper penny and a note raw beef. On the palate, it was lively with inner floral notes and light red fruit until a mineral metallic note took over, which wrapped the palate through the close. (86 points)

1969 Marcarini Barolo Brunate – The nose showed animal musk with strawberry, undergrowth and minerals. On the palate, it showed subdued, lean red fruit, a slight metallic note and old cedar. The finish was drying with sour red fruits. (89 points)

1970 Marcarini Barolo Brunate – The nose showed vibrant cherry, smoke, potpourri, fall leaves and old cedar. On the palate, it was finessed and balanced with zesty acidity, showing red fruits, pencil wood and hints of rust. The finish was medium-long, pleasant and clean with focused dried fruit. (90 points)

1974 Marcarini Barolo Brunate – The nose showed animal musk with earth and crushed cherries in a buttery tartlet shell. On the palate, it was airy and lifted with good acidity, showing red berries and earthy minerals. The finish was staying and wrapped the palate in dried red fruit. (91 points)

1982 Marcarini Barolo Brunate – The nose showed rustic red fruits, musk, crushed fall leaves and a hint of spice. On the palate, it was elegant and still lively with deep, fresh red fruits. This finish was medium-long with silky balance. (93 points)

1985 Marcarini Barolo Riserva Brunate – The nose was vibrant and appealing, showing dried flowers and sweet dusty strawberry. On the palate, I found dark red fruits, with cedar, sweet spice and lively acidity. The finish was clean and fresh with hints of lingering tannin. (92 points)

1989 Marcarini Barolo Brunate – The nose was classic with cherry, airy floral rose, menthol and tar. On the palate, it was smooth as silk with fine tannic structure pulsing through its core, yielding intense, yet focused red fruit and hints of spice. The finish brought more of the same and coated the palate is silky tannin. It’s amazing how young the bottle seemed and even more amazing to think what it may be in another 5–10 years. (94 points)

1990 Marcarini Barolo Brunate – The nose showed rich red fruits, dark wood, crushed fall leaves and a hint of varnish. On the palate, it was clean and focused but ripe with red fruits and lacked the depth of greater vintages. The soft finish melted away from the palate leaving a hint of drying tannin. (89 points)

1995 Marcarini Barolo Brunate - The nose showed dark red fruits and moist earth with sweet spice and cedar wood. On the palate, I found a full-bodied expression of ripe, sweet cherry, cedar and herbs against a balanced structure of tannin, leading to a pleasant finish that turned the sweet cherries to sour berries. (92 points)

1996 Marcarini Barolo Brunate – The nose was massive and brooding with dark red fruit, herbs, rose and tobacco, which closed up quickly in the glass and refused to coax back out to the front. On the palate, smooth dark red fruits caressed the senses but were quickly ushered off as its structure took over the palate. The finish showed mouth-coating tannin with an airy, herbal lift. With time, this may be absolutely gorgeous but on this night, it was a bruiser. (93 points)

2007 Marcarini Barolo Brunate – The nose was sweet and pungent with confectionary fruits, tartlet shell, dark chocolate and plum. On the palate, it was juicy with ripe fruits, spice and mint with a smooth sheen; yet a twinge of burning heat marred the palate into the finish, where tannins took center stage. (89 points)

Find Marcarini Barolo Brunate on Wine-Searcher!

If you made it this far, I’d like to take a moment to make one more recommendation. I seriously urge you to consider some of the other wines from Marcarini as well. Marcarini is well known for the Brunate bottling, yet the Barolo La Serra is another excellent Barolo for the money. La Serra is another single vineyard bottling from the commune of La Morra. While known to be more accessible earlier than the Brunate, it’s still an excellent bottle of Barolo that can provide mid-term cellaring and a great deal of value. Lastly, it’s worth checking out the Dolcetto d’Alba “Boschi di Berri.” In Piedmont, Nebbiolo is king with Dolcetto and Barbera receiving real estate in lesser-known locations. This is not so with the Boschi di Berri, a dolcetto that is made from vines that are literally over 100 years old and planted on native root stocks. It is a wine worth seeking out and should be on the short list of anyone who is looking to explore the wines of Piedmont.

1995: Barolo Retrospective

When speaking of vintage streaks in Barolo circles, most enthusiasts think of 1996 through 2001. However, what is often overlooked is a vintage that was considered excellent upon release by growers and winemakers but quickly overshadowed by the structure of 1996 and the sex appeal of 1997. That vintage is 1995.

After four years of lackluster vintages (‘91 - ’94), Barolo growers were more than happy with the results of 1995. Generally speaking, the weather cooperated, with the exception of two isolated hailstorms, which caused uneven quality for some growers. However, the majority of the Langhe Barolo harvest, although small, produced big wines with the potential for long aging. The problem is that for how good 1995 was, it was quickly forgotten as vintage after excellent vintage flooded international markets.

What does this mean to today’s Barolo drinker? It means that 1995 Barolo can still be found and normally at good prices. The catch is that one must be careful to only buy from trusted sources since these bottles have had over 12 years on the open market, and the chances of having been mis-stored or abused during that time can be high. Luckily, there is a higher emphasis on sourcing well-stored wine among today’s best retailers.

In the end, a little known secret among long time Barolo collectors is that 1995 Barolo is worth the hunt. These are drinking now Baroli that show well-resolved tannins and masses of fruit balanced by a solid core of lively acidity.

Before I move to the wines, special thanks go out to i Trulli Restaurant in NYC for allowing me to host such a large tasting at a single table. The food at i Trulli is excellent and easily stands tall against the best Italian cuisine in NYC. There were 16 bottles in all, served blind, and in the end (with the exception of one corked and one slightly off bottle), all the wines were fabulous.

On to the wines:

1995 Domenico Clerico Barolo Pajana - The nose showed an initial burst of sour cranberry, which turned sweeter with air. As time passed in the glass, the cranberry turned to black cherry with a dusting of minerals, dark chocolate and menthol. On the palate, the Pajana lost momentum with its full-bodied, yet one dimensional showing of sour cherry and hints of holiday spice. The finish was staying with tart red fruits that clung to the palate. (88 points)

1995 Roagna Barolo La Rocca e La Pira - Initially, there seemed to be a dirty note to the nose, but with time in glass it came to life, showing undergrowth and floral notes with cinnamon and bright cherry fruit. On the palate, it was lush with sweet ripe strawberry and dusty cherry, minerals, and earth on a structured frame with lifting acidity. The finish showed a hint of drying tannin against focused fruit, giving the impression that this wine may be a few years short of its peak. (93 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

1995 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Ca d'Morissio Riserva Monprivato - On the nose, I found plum with fresh turned soil, floral notes, cherry and savory herbs. On the palate, notes of menthol filled the senses and gave way to red fruits and cedar. It was structured, showing enough balance of tannin and fruit to expect a number of years before it hits its peak. The long finish gave way to sour red fruits and hints of fennel. (92 points)

1995 Podere Rocche dei Manzoni Barolo Vigna d'la Roul - The rather expressive nose showed animal musk, menthol, mushrooms, saw dust and savory broth. On the palate, it was lush with a full body giving way to flavors of ripe cherry, herbs and spice. The finish was long and staying, carrying spicy red fruits to the close. (89 points)

1995 Vietti Barolo Lazzarito - The nose showed dusty potpourri with bright cherry, cedar and spice box. The palate was firm, showing masses of structure, as rich cherry fruit countered by earthy clay and dusty minerals swept across the senses. The finish was long and revealed crushed red fruits as the wine’s tannins slowly faded away. It was the utter balance and sheer focus of fruit that truly blew me away when drinking the 1995 Vietti Lazzarito. (92 points)

1995 Conterno Fantino Barolo Sorì Ginestra - On the nose, I found dark spiced fruits with plum and hints of sweet vanilla sugar. The palate showed soft cherry with cedar in a feminine expression of Nebbiolo. The finish tapered off with notes of sweet herbal tea. (89 points)

1995 Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric dël Fiasc - The nose showed ripe strawberry with clove, sage and hint of vanilla, yet there were some underlying notes of dank wood which marred the experience. On the palate, it was voluptuous, with ripe cherry and sweet tobacco. The finish was medium long, but the fruit took on a hollow feeling and left me wanting a little something more. (88 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

1995 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Cicala - The nose showed cherry liquor with dusty brown sugar, yet the initial sweet character of this wine was immediately put in check by welcoming notes of fresh earth and broth. On the palate, it was feminine, as dried strawberry and hints of honeyed herbal tea washed across the senses, only to explode into a juicy pure expression of red fruits and minerals on the finish. (93 points)

Even though its not a Barolo, the Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano, was included and showed that Barbaresco from 1995 is also drinking beautifully and showing amazing quality.

1995 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano - The nose showed dusty minerals with floral undergrowth, copper penny and sour, soft cheeses. On the palate, it was soft, yet its balanced acidity kept it fresh with flavors of dark red fruit, licorice and cinnamon. The finish was long with red fruits and hints of cedar. (91 points)

1995 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo - The nose showed dusty potpourri with fresh figs, plum and undergrowth. On the palate, I found cherries and hints of white mushroom, in a pretty but very light expression of Nebbiolo. The finish revealed its drying tannins with very little fruit in balance. (88 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

1995 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero - The nose showed black olive tapanade with rosemary and sweet cherry. On the palate, it was as soft as velvet with herbs, meaty broth, cherry and black olive washing across the senses. The finish left me satisfied by this wine’s wonderful balance, inner sweetness and remarkably unique profile. (93 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

1995 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato - The nose showed cranberry, meaty broth, stone, minerals and something I can only describe as blood sausage. On the palate, I found a rich and dark expression of strawberry fruit and mushrooms that turned more angular and structured into the close with earthy notes. The finish was long with staying fruit, yet lacked dimension. (90 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

1995 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Rocche dei Brovia - The nose showed stemmed strawberries, cinnamon and roses with a slight vegetal note. On the palate, it was full-bodied with focused black cherry and tobacco. The finish turned to a pretty expression of sour red fruits. (90 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

1995 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba - The nose showed savory and meaty notes with cherry and hints of acetone. On the palate, it was full-bodied with sweet overripe fruits and notes of green vegetables in butter broth. The finish was long, carrying the same odd flavors of the palate. This bottle was likely off. (reserving score) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

1995 Marcarini Barolo Brunate - The nose showed dark red fruits and moist earth with sweet spice and cedar wood. On the palate, I found a full-bodied expression of ripe, sweet cherry, cedar and herbs against a balanced structure of tannin, leading to a pleasant finish that turned the sweet cherries to sour berries. (92 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

For another perspective of this tasting, check out Greg dal Piaz, his review, a and great vintage synopsis at: Snooth!