2009 Barolo: Is Good Not Good Enough?

Cannubi reigns supreme with a number of excellent wines!

As we are all bombarded with news of how amazingly great 2010 Barolo is, and as importers and retailers speculate on just how much money they can squeeze out of us on presales of wines--which in some cases haven’t even been blended and bottled—I’m looking at the current release of 2009 Barolo. And why not? Oh wait; wasn’t this vintage canned as overly ripe with harsh tannins? Why, yes it was. However, that’s a broad generalization. The fact is, while many of us are spending ridicules amounts of money on wines we can’t even taste yet, there are wines turning up on the shelves now that may not be for the ages, but will drink well right out of the gate. What’s more, with all the speculation over 2010, don’t be surprised if you see these 2009’s heavily discounted. I’m not saying this is a great vintage, or even a good one, but there are some standout bottles that Barolo lovers will enjoy.

Cascina Gavarini at Monforte

2009 was an idiosyncratic vintage. Many people are simply calling it ripe and comparing it to 2007. However, the fact is that 2009 wasn’t your typical ripe vintage. Heavy snows built of up water reserves through the winter, (usually a good thing), but it didn’t stop there as a cool damp spring resulted in irregular flowering with more rain. In late July a steady heat set in, which didn’t relent. The ground water helped here, but combined with an excess of constant sun, the vines suffered without expert canopy management. Late August saw better temperatures and ripening into September, but further rain on the horizon prompted many growers to pick early. In the end, these wines were made in the vineyards, and those who failed there failed across the board.

You may wonder, why should we even consider buying them? I will admit that I have a tendency to associate classically-styled wines with quality. Yet, as the years go by and my cellar full of young Barolo (too young to drink) increases, I welcome a vintage that I can enjoy in the near term. In many cases, that’s what 2009 is, and in my opinion (because I heard many people say the same about 2003, and I disagree), it is one of the first young vintages that I’ve tasted where I actually enjoy drinking the wines.

So as we worry about how good 2001, 2004, 2006 and 2008 will one day turn out, and as we worry how we’re going to afford 2010, I suggest grabbing a bottle of Paolo Scavino Cannubi, Pecchenino Le Coste, Burlotto Monvigliero or any of my top scoring ‘09s, and give them a taste for yourself. I think you’ll be sipping and smiling, thinking about all those wines you might enjoy after twenty years in your cellar, and how much you’re currently enjoying the glass in your hand right now.

On to the wines:

2009 Paolo Scavino Barolo Cannubi – The nose really jumped from the glass in the 2009 Scavino Cannubi, showing dark raspberry, hints of spicy oak, chalky and sandy minerals with a slight sour floral note. On the palate, it was intense with dark red berry, mineral-infused stone and a formidable structure, which perfectly balanced the wine’s intensity. Saturating red fruit, which stayed long on the palate, personified the finish as this wine’s intensity slowly melted away. This dark beauty is a truly serious wine. (94 points)

Producer website: Paolo Scavino
Avg. price $115
Find it on: Wine-Seacher!

2009 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole – The nose was feminine and elegant, especially for this ripe vintage, showing mixed ripe berries, rosy floral tones and lifting hints of menthol. On the palate, it was focused and refined with bright red fruits, which showed excellent depth before being pushed back by the wine’s youthful structure. The finish was long and elegant, yet drying as expected. This is a beautifully balanced, finessed wine which should drink well relatively early. (93+ points)

Producer website: G.D. Vajra
Avg. price $80
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Pecchenino Barolo Le Coste – The nose was dark and powerful with ripe red fruits, sweet florals, spice and a mentholated freshness. On the palate, a grounding note of bitter, medicinal herb and spice, which provided a beautiful contrast of textures, met ripe raspberry and cherry. The finish was long with earthy dark fruits, which seemed to saturate the senses. The 2009 Pecchenino showed wonderful balance in its dark and brooding nature, a true standout in the vintage. (93 points)

Producer website: Pecchenino
Avg. price $65
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero - The color was a beautiful translucent ruby. On the nose, I found heady aromas of ripe red berries and roses with crushed Kalamata olive, rosemary, and savory roasted meats. On the palate, it was tightly wound and feminine, showing densely packed dusty cherry fruit, herbal tones and minerals before it's fine tannins coated the senses. The finish was long, yet dry with red berry-concentrate saturating the senses. With time, this will gain weight and volume on the palate, making it a truly complete experience. For now, it needs time to fill out. (93 points)

Producer website: G.B. Burlotto
Avg. price $58
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Brezza Barolo Cannubi – The nose showed intense tart cherry and herbs with a bright and vibrant floral rose and hints of grapefruit. On the palate, it was feminine, yet concentrated and pure with tart cherry and inner floral tones. The finish was long, showing dried strawberry and hints of residual tannin. (92 points)

Producer website: Brezza
Avg. price $50
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Luigi Baudana Barolo Baudana - This showed a classic Barolo profile on the nose with dried cherry, crushed fall leaves, hints of iron, minerals and exotic spice. On the palate, I found juicy, ripe strawberry, yet it firmed up quickly, turning leaner with tannic heft. This wine was feminine and pure throughout with red fruit, inner floral notes and minerals on the finish. (92 points)

Producer website: Luigi Baudana
Avg. price $75
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Virna Barolo Cannubi Boschis – The nose was floral and vibrant, showing a mix of cherry, strawberry, floral rose and minerals. On the palate, it was silky upon entry with ripe strawberry, inner florals and herbs, yet it quickly tensed up to reveal slightly gruff tannins. The finish was unrelenting with beautiful inner floral notes and a hint of citrus. (92 points)

Producer website: Virna
Avg. price $59.99
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Cascina Bruciata Barolo Cannubi Muscatel – The nose was, at first, restrained, yet it opened beautifully in the glass to reveal strawberry, with a savory, almost meaty note, followed by floral perfumes and a hint of sweet citrus. On the palate, this showed an abundance of energy with dark cherry and a hint of citrus peel. The finish was tart yet long on fruit with hints of tannin tugging at the palate. (92 points)

Producer website: Cascina Bruciata
Avg. price $60
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Elvio Cogno Barolo Ravera – Intense red berry, rosy floral perfume and dusty, dry spices filled the senses with one whiff from this feminine and floral Barolo. On the palate, I found tart, young berry fruit in a bright, feminine and floral expression of Nebbiolo fruit. A formidable tannic structure embodied the finish with tart berry extract clinging to the palate. This is a great value and excellent wine for the vintage though it is in need of time in the cellar to fully show its qualities. (91 points)

Producer website: Elvio Cogno
Avg. price $63
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Damilano Barolo Cannubi – The nose was ripe and dark, showing intense depth with mixed berries, hints of spice and cranberry, dark soil and undergrowth. On the palate, soft textures quickly turned to intense concentration, which really saturated the senses with medicinal cherry, inner floral tones and earth. The finish was beautiful, as the usually Nebbiolo tannins laid back to display inner floral notes and red fruit. Very nicely done, yet drinking early for a Barolo. (91 points)

Producer website: Damiliano
Avg. price $78
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Oddero Barolo Rocche di Castiglione – What was most striking about the Oddero Rocche was the color; a bright red and orange hue that’s almost transparent. However, one sniff, and this perfumed wine showed its power, as rich and dark ripe red fruits, spice, and hints of animal musk filled the senses. On the palate, it was structured yet focused, showing spiced cherry, cedar and earth. The finish was cut short by this wine’s tannic heft, yet a pleasantly earthy hint of fall leaves and wild berry lingered on. (91 points)

Producer website: Oddero
Avg. price $95
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Fratelli Alessandria Barolo Monvigliero – The nose was fresh and lifting with pretty, sweet floral notes, cherry and stony minerals. On the palate, it was ripe with silky textured, dark red fruits and herbs. Inner floral tones lasted into the finish, along with saturating red fruit, which clung to the senses. (91 points)

Producer website: Fratelli Alessandria
Avg. price $61
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 La Spinetta Barolo Vigneto Campe Vursu – The nose was dark yet restrained at first, yet with time in the glass it began to open up, showing ripe black cherry, dried, dusty floral tones and hints of spice. On the palate, ripe red fruits quickly turned tart and structured, yet there was a focus and elegance to the fruit. Tart red berry lingered on the youthful finish with hints of undergrowth. (91 points)

Producer website: La Spinetta
Avg. price $60
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato – The nose was dark with powerful ripe red fruits, spicy wood tones, potpourri and black licorice. Yet, on the palate, it was soft with silky textures, showing notes of cherry and dried spices in a very balanced and pure effort. The finish was long with spicy, dark red fruits and hints of tannin. Honestly, this wine was a pleasure on the palate, and it’s simply a shame to find so much oak influence in the nose. Maybe time will resolve that issue, yet with the 2009, I’m not sure the fruit will outlast the tannins. Yet, for someone who enjoys a modern style, this may be right up your alley. (89 points)

Producer website: Pio Cesare
Avg. price $100
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Ceretto Barolo Bricco Rocche – The nose showed ripe berry, hints of sweet spice and rosy floral tones. On the palate, it was soft and velvety with raspberry, dark spices and a hint of cedar. The finish was long and juicy, yet I continued to wonder throughout this experience: where are the tannins? An excellent wine for instant gratification. (89 points)

Producer website: Cerretto
Avg. price $190
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 G.D. Vajra Barolo Albe - The nose was floral and ripe, showing spiced cherry, sweet florals, graphite, and lifting notes of peppermint. On the palate, it was juicy with weightless, silky textures and a dark red fruit persona. Sweet spices and inner florals lasted through the finish as tannins began to saturate, and dry out the senses. An excellent wine for it's price point and a great way to enjoy Barolo as your more expensive and austere bottles mature. (89 points)

Producer website: G.D. Vajra
Avg. price $37
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Chiara Boschis Barolo Cannubi – The nose was restrained, yet with coaxing, showed an elegant mix of dark cherry, rose, soil and minerals. On the palate, I found soft textures met by flavors of red berry and tealeaf; however, there seems to be a lack of concentration here. It finished much in the same manner as a pretty wine, yet falling slightly short. (88 points)

Producer website: Chiara Boschis
Avg. price $86
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Damilano Barolo Lecinquevigne – The nose showed tart cherry with floral rose, dark soil and gravel. On the palate, ripe red fruits were met by inner floral notes in an almost sweet style. Tannins took control through the finish, drying out the palate. (87 points)

Producer website: Damilano
Avg. price $32
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

2009 Michele Chiarlo Barolo Cannubi – The nose showed textbook Barolo notes of dried strawberry, floral rose and dusty spice, yet lacking any serious character. On the palate, it was intense with savory red fruit tones and a rough tannic structure that seemed to muddle its focus of fruit. Dark soil and red fruit remained on the finish with grainy tannin tugging at the cheeks. (86 points)

Producer website: Michele Chiarlo
Avg. price $93
Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

1999 Barolo and Barbaresco: Right on Track

One of the most common discussions among Barolo drinkers are which vintages from the 1995 through 2001 vintage streak will rise to the top. It’s a debate that has been going on for years, and for quite some time, ’99 seemed to be a big question mark--until recently.

A recent experience with a '99 Aldo
Conterno Colonnello, truly peaked
my interest in revisiting these wines.

This time last year, I would have worried about opening a ’99 Barolo. It was a fear that it would be too broad yet too tannic and far from maturity. I’d say you should be drinking ’95, most ‘97’s, and some ’98’s. I would have gone on to say that ’96 was more structured but classic with fruit that would last the test of time. Then I’d explain that ’01 was still a baby in need of more time, but that it appeared to be a great vintage in the making. But with ’99, I had feared that it wouldn’t come around while the fruit was still intact. However, Barolo has a way of surprising you, and ’99 has done just that.

1999 had a great start, being a year that saw favorable conditions throughout the entire region. A warm summer with cool nights lent the grapes that much needed push and pull of heat to ripen, and a break at night retained balance and added aromatics. Maybe I was at a disadvantage, having never tasted these upon release. For me, most of these bottles were at least seven or eight years old before my first taste and may have been in a dormant stage. However, after this tasting, I can see that they are right on track.

Most of these wines are just entering their drinking window. I wouldn’t put them in the same league as ’96 for ageability, yet I would say there’s at least a decade of improvement in store for the majority of wines we tasted. What was troubling was the number of bottles that appeared to be suffering from unusually high amounts of volatile acidity. Lastly, there was the revelation that our wine of the night wasn’t a Barolo—It was a Barbaresco.

In my opinion, ’99 is a vintage to sample over the coming years--and buy, if the price and provenance is right.

On to the notes:

La Morra and Barolo

1999 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate / Le Coste – The nose was highly expressive with black cherry and raspberry fruits, followed by soil, slate dust and earthy minerals with a hint of V.A. On the palate, it was silky with a full body, showing rich red fruits, sweet spice and saline minerals. It’s structure seemed to creep in with the second sip as drying tannin coated the palate, yet still managed to close with flavors of cherry and wild herbs. (92 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

1999 Michele Chiarlo Barolo Cerequio – On the nose, I found cherry fruit with oak influences of sawdust, cinnamon with an odd note of raw beef. On the palate, it was soft and juicy with sweet red fruits, coffee notes and spice. The finish was staying with red fruit, cinnamon spice, inner floral notes and cheek-puckering tannin. (89 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

1999 Brezza Barolo Cannubi – The ’99 Brezza Cannubi was a gorgeous Barolo with crushed red berries, roses, mineral dust, and tobacco on the nose. On the palate, it was elegant and finessed with ripe cherry fruit and minerals, which turned darker and more dramatic over time to reveal sweet balsamic notes. The finish showed red berries made tart by cheek-puckering tannin. This wine was youthful, with many years of development ahead of it. (94 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Barbaresco

1999 Produttori del Barbaresco “Torre” – The ’99 Barbaresco “Torre” from Produttorri del Barbaresco makes a serious case for the quality of their normale. The nose showed cherry fruit, dried roses and earth tones of soil, a bit of green stem and raw chestnut. On the palate, a rush of intense red berry fruit was followed by earth and mushroom with a chewy texture that gave way to tannin. The finish showed dried red berries with gruff tannin that was fine on this night but may one day overpower the fruit in this wine. (90 points) Find in on Wine-Searcher!

1999 Produttori del Barbaresco Moccagatta Riserva – The Produttori Moccagatta was classic in every way, and having tasted it blind, was easily confused for being a Barolo. The nose started out muted, but with a short time in the glass, a bouquet of dried cherry, potpourri, menthol and dark, dark chocolate filled the senses. On the palate, intense tart cherry washed across the senses with notes of cedar but was quickly subdued by fine tannin. Penetrating red fruits stayed through the finish in good balance against this wine’s tense structure. The Moccagatta was dark, mysterious and truly seductive on the nose with a truly classic feel on the palate. (95 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

1999 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano – The nose showed spiced red fruits, cherry pipe smoke and notes of acetone. On the palate, it showed an abundance of aggressive acidity with ripe red berries that coated the palate yet seemed to drop off in the middle. The finish was drying with penetrating red fruits. It would appear that this bottle was flawed. (NR) Find it on Wine-Searcher!


Monforte d’Alba (Important to note that the ’99 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Colonnello was tasted separatly but with similar treatment before tasting.)

1999 Attilio Ghisolfi Barolo Bricco Visette – The nose was unexpectedly advanced, showing damp soil with cherry, herbs, floral rose and minerals. On the palate, it was soft with ripe cherry and hints of iron like minerals. Stern tannins showed through on the finish with notes of cherry and cedar staying through the close. (87 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

1999 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Colonnello – The nose was dark and seductive with cherry tobacco, plum, dusty potpourri a hint of musk and medicinal herbs. On the palate, it was velvety and perfectly balanced with masses of fruit. Sour cherry sauce and a hint of cedar filled the senses and warded off the silky tannins that were still present but not out front. On the finish, the fruit turned dry yet still intense with hints of sweet spices. (94 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher! 

Castiglione Falletto

1999 Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato – The nose showed sweet dark cherries and roses with spice and licorice. On the palate it was balanced and feminine with ripe cherry and spices, all driven by juicy acidity that brightened up the palate and nearly masked its underlying structure. The finish was fresh and juicy with inner floral notes lingering throughout. (94 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

Serralunga

1999 Massolino Barolo Vigna Rionda Riserva – The nose was restrained, yet found its center with time in the glass, showing a bouquet of bright spiced cherry, tobacco, sandy soil and saline minerals. On the palate, it was lean in body, showing notes of dried cherry, earth and mushroom with teaming acidity and a broad structure that took control and lasted throughout the finish. (90 points) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

1999 Schiavenza Barolo Riserva – The nose showed intense cherry but was followed by sweet acetone and plastic notes. On the palate, it showed tart cherry, minerals and rust with drying tannin that dominated the finish. This wine was marked by V.A. (NR) Find it on Wine-Searcher!

1979: Barolo Retrospective

Drink ‘em if you got ‘em

Sometimes you just have to let go of the ghost. For years I’ve read about the ’79 Barolo vintage being the underdog that was foreshadowed by the towering ’78s. Many merchants have used this angle when offering this vintage to me. However, from my most recent tasting of ’79 Barolo, I think it’s time that we stop buying these and start drinking them.

The Roagna Barbaresco
Crichet Pajé. One of the strangest
performances of the night.

It’s unfortunate, but the majority of the bottles tasted have come as far as they can and are simply tired and dried out. The hallmark acidity of this vintage now rears its ugly head as the fruit fades, turns lean and penetrating flavors of citrus rind and pith coat the palate. Some of these were highly enjoyable, but I won’t be adding them to my cellar.

My favorites on this night were the Breze and Vietti Briacca. Both were formidable wines that have seen better days yet are fading with grace. In the end, if you own ’79 Barolo, you don’t need to run to the cellar right this minute, but it’s certainly time to consider drinking these wines.

On to the wines:

1979 Francesco Pittatore Barolo Ponte Rocca Brunate – The nose showed wet tobacco, sweet woodland notes with vibrant red berry and a hint of mint. On the palate, it was broad yet vibrant and light on its feet, showing soil covered red fruits and inner aromas of mushroom. The finish was long and feminine with staying red berry fruit and a hint of remaining structure. (90 points)

1979 Azienda Bricco Rocche (Ceretto) Barolo Brunate – The nose showed animal musk, dark fruits, crushed leaves, and intense floral notes. On the palate, it was rustic with lean dried fruits that turned juicy and were joined by notes of savory broth. This was still highly enjoyable, but with no upside potential, it should be drunk now. (87 points)

1979 Marcarini La Serra – On the nose, I found sweet beefy notes, spice, saline minerals and a mixture of floral, soil and undergrowth. On the palate, it was mouth-filling, showing citrus rinds and herbal tea leaf. The finish showed lots of acidity and citrus notes. (89 points)

1979 Cordero di Montezemolo Barolo Monfalletto – On the nose, I found a whiff of old library book, crushed cherry, tamarind and potpourri. On the palate, it was lean with vibrant acidity and rustic dried cherry fruits. The finish was long with mouth-coating fruit and inner aromas of medicinal herbs. (87 points)

1979 Vietti Barolo Briacca – The nose was intense with dark ripe strawberry, dried flowers, and medicinal herbs. On the palate, it was feminine and balanced with finessed, lean red fruit and citrus rinds. The finish was long and fresh showing sour berries. (91 points)

1979 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Rocche dei Brovia – The nose showed sweet, ripe red fruits, undergrowth and mushroom. On the palate, inner floral and undergrowth notes dominated, as this wines broad yet elegant texture opened up to reveal dark red fruits, both sweet and sour with vibrant acidity. (89 points)

1979 Azienda Bricco Rocche (Ceretto) Barolo Prapò – The nose was dark with rich red fruit, buttery tartlet crust, and herbs. On the palate, it was light on its feet and finessed, showing juicy red berries but turning chunky toward the finish and fading quickly. (85 points)

1979 Roagna Barbaresco Crichet Pajé – The nose showed horseradish, soil, and herbs. On the palate, it was vegetal, with pepper, herbs, citrus rinds and lots of acidity. The vegetal notes continued on the finish. It was certainly an interesting wine but honestly not enjoyable to drink. (80 points)

1979 Giacomo Brezza Figli Barolo Sarmassa e Castellero – The classically-styled nose showed tar, rose water, a slight spice, lots of floral notes and red berries. On the palate, it was rich and full with soft dried cherry fruit that turned juicy toward the close. This wine was easygoing on the palate and gorgeous on the nose. (91 points)

1979 Cantina Mascarello Barolo – On the nose, I found tangy, spicy floral notes, old library book and lean red berries. On the palate, intense but overripe fruit flooded the senses but dropped off quickly to reveal drying and mouth-puckering tannin. (84 points)