1995: Barolo Retrospective

When speaking of vintage streaks in Barolo circles, most enthusiasts think of 1996 through 2001. However, what is often overlooked is a vintage that was considered excellent upon release by growers and winemakers but quickly overshadowed by the structure of 1996 and the sex appeal of 1997. That vintage is 1995.

After four years of lackluster vintages (‘91 - ’94), Barolo growers were more than happy with the results of 1995. Generally speaking, the weather cooperated, with the exception of two isolated hailstorms, which caused uneven quality for some growers. However, the majority of the Langhe Barolo harvest, although small, produced big wines with the potential for long aging. The problem is that for how good 1995 was, it was quickly forgotten as vintage after excellent vintage flooded international markets.

What does this mean to today’s Barolo drinker? It means that 1995 Barolo can still be found and normally at good prices. The catch is that one must be careful to only buy from trusted sources since these bottles have had over 12 years on the open market, and the chances of having been mis-stored or abused during that time can be high. Luckily, there is a higher emphasis on sourcing well-stored wine among today’s best retailers.

In the end, a little known secret among long time Barolo collectors is that 1995 Barolo is worth the hunt. These are drinking now Baroli that show well-resolved tannins and masses of fruit balanced by a solid core of lively acidity.

Before I move to the wines, special thanks go out to i Trulli Restaurant in NYC for allowing me to host such a large tasting at a single table. The food at i Trulli is excellent and easily stands tall against the best Italian cuisine in NYC. There were 16 bottles in all, served blind, and in the end (with the exception of one corked and one slightly off bottle), all the wines were fabulous.

On to the wines:

1995 Domenico Clerico Barolo Pajana - The nose showed an initial burst of sour cranberry, which turned sweeter with air. As time passed in the glass, the cranberry turned to black cherry with a dusting of minerals, dark chocolate and menthol. On the palate, the Pajana lost momentum with its full-bodied, yet one dimensional showing of sour cherry and hints of holiday spice. The finish was staying with tart red fruits that clung to the palate. (88 points)

1995 Roagna Barolo La Rocca e La Pira - Initially, there seemed to be a dirty note to the nose, but with time in glass it came to life, showing undergrowth and floral notes with cinnamon and bright cherry fruit. On the palate, it was lush with sweet ripe strawberry and dusty cherry, minerals, and earth on a structured frame with lifting acidity. The finish showed a hint of drying tannin against focused fruit, giving the impression that this wine may be a few years short of its peak. (93 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher

1995 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Ca d'Morissio Riserva Monprivato - On the nose, I found plum with fresh turned soil, floral notes, cherry and savory herbs. On the palate, notes of menthol filled the senses and gave way to red fruits and cedar. It was structured, showing enough balance of tannin and fruit to expect a number of years before it hits its peak. The long finish gave way to sour red fruits and hints of fennel. (92 points)

1995 Podere Rocche dei Manzoni Barolo Vigna d'la Roul - The rather expressive nose showed animal musk, menthol, mushrooms, saw dust and savory broth. On the palate, it was lush with a full body giving way to flavors of ripe cherry, herbs and spice. The finish was long and staying, carrying spicy red fruits to the close. (89 points)

1995 Vietti Barolo Lazzarito - The nose showed dusty potpourri with bright cherry, cedar and spice box. The palate was firm, showing masses of structure, as rich cherry fruit countered by earthy clay and dusty minerals swept across the senses. The finish was long and revealed crushed red fruits as the wine’s tannins slowly faded away. It was the utter balance and sheer focus of fruit that truly blew me away when drinking the 1995 Vietti Lazzarito. (92 points)

1995 Conterno Fantino Barolo Sorì Ginestra - On the nose, I found dark spiced fruits with plum and hints of sweet vanilla sugar. The palate showed soft cherry with cedar in a feminine expression of Nebbiolo. The finish tapered off with notes of sweet herbal tea. (89 points)

1995 Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric dël Fiasc - The nose showed ripe strawberry with clove, sage and hint of vanilla, yet there were some underlying notes of dank wood which marred the experience. On the palate, it was voluptuous, with ripe cherry and sweet tobacco. The finish was medium long, but the fruit took on a hollow feeling and left me wanting a little something more. (88 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

1995 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Cicala - The nose showed cherry liquor with dusty brown sugar, yet the initial sweet character of this wine was immediately put in check by welcoming notes of fresh earth and broth. On the palate, it was feminine, as dried strawberry and hints of honeyed herbal tea washed across the senses, only to explode into a juicy pure expression of red fruits and minerals on the finish. (93 points)

Even though its not a Barolo, the Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano, was included and showed that Barbaresco from 1995 is also drinking beautifully and showing amazing quality.

1995 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano - The nose showed dusty minerals with floral undergrowth, copper penny and sour, soft cheeses. On the palate, it was soft, yet its balanced acidity kept it fresh with flavors of dark red fruit, licorice and cinnamon. The finish was long with red fruits and hints of cedar. (91 points)

1995 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo - The nose showed dusty potpourri with fresh figs, plum and undergrowth. On the palate, I found cherries and hints of white mushroom, in a pretty but very light expression of Nebbiolo. The finish revealed its drying tannins with very little fruit in balance. (88 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

1995 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero - The nose showed black olive tapanade with rosemary and sweet cherry. On the palate, it was as soft as velvet with herbs, meaty broth, cherry and black olive washing across the senses. The finish left me satisfied by this wine’s wonderful balance, inner sweetness and remarkably unique profile. (93 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

1995 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato - The nose showed cranberry, meaty broth, stone, minerals and something I can only describe as blood sausage. On the palate, I found a rich and dark expression of strawberry fruit and mushrooms that turned more angular and structured into the close with earthy notes. The finish was long with staying fruit, yet lacked dimension. (90 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

1995 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Rocche dei Brovia - The nose showed stemmed strawberries, cinnamon and roses with a slight vegetal note. On the palate, it was full-bodied with focused black cherry and tobacco. The finish turned to a pretty expression of sour red fruits. (90 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

1995 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba - The nose showed savory and meaty notes with cherry and hints of acetone. On the palate, it was full-bodied with sweet overripe fruits and notes of green vegetables in butter broth. The finish was long, carrying the same odd flavors of the palate. This bottle was likely off. (reserving score) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

1995 Marcarini Barolo Brunate - The nose showed dark red fruits and moist earth with sweet spice and cedar wood. On the palate, I found a full-bodied expression of ripe, sweet cherry, cedar and herbs against a balanced structure of tannin, leading to a pleasant finish that turned the sweet cherries to sour berries. (92 points) Find it: Wine-Searcher!

For another perspective of this tasting, check out Greg dal Piaz, his review, a and great vintage synopsis at: Snooth!

2000: Barolo Retrospective

With 2010 almost at a close, I thought it would be a great time to check in on the 2000 vintage of Barolo. 2000 was a year that was highly acclaimed by critics and still to this day by many producers in Piedmont. It was a ripe vintage (much like 1990) but with many producers gearing their wines toward the modern side of the winemaking spectrum, it turned out many wines that showed beautiful young but are now coming across as disjointed. In some recent tastings, Baroli from 2000 have shown rough tannins against rich fruit, making them jammy or overly dark. However, there are still many highly enjoyable wines from this vintage and most are showing beautifully right now. The best rule of thumb is to go with the producers you know and trust.

It’s also important to note that many of the tasting notes you find, from when these wines were first released, are no longer a good gauge to go by when buying. A wine that was rated 95 points by a critic because of the wow factor of the vintage seven years ago may now be a bottle that is showing the signs of age in an unbalanced wine. One of the main things I took from this tasting was that the traditionally minded producers still managed to make wines that tread toward vibrancy and finesse while some of the modern producers here play on the strengths of the vintage and, even though they made wines that weren’t very representative of Barolo, they are still highly enjoyable.

I would recommend buying any of the wines from the notes below for near-term consumption and the best part is that you can still find them on retail shelves. If you want Barolo that will drink well tonight with just a few hours in decanter, look no farther.

Lastly, before I move onto the notes, I would be remiss not to mention the absolutely amazing food provided by i Trulli, located at E 27th St. New York, New York. I’ve gone on record saying that this is my favorite Italian spot in NYC and this dinner reconfirmed that sentiment. It was truly amazing in everyway.

On to the notes:

Conterno Fantino, Barolo Vigna del Gris 2000 – The nose showed dusty black cherry and cinnamon with hints of herbs and a bit of tar. On the palate, I found round, sweet then sour strawberry, spice, and honey tones that turned a bit drying into the finish as a wall of tannin coated the palate. This is a wine that I’d love to check in on in another five years. (90 Points)

Domenico Clerico, Langhe Arte 2000 – While not technically a Barolo, consisting of 85% Nebbiolo with Barbera and Cabernet, this wine managed to surprise me with its balance and complexity. The nose showed black berries, green pepper, flower petals and licorice. On the palate, I found sour cherry, mulling spice and meaty broth on a smooth, velvety frame. This wine came across as ripe yet finessed, making it an enjoyable sipper. (89 points)


Paolo Scavino, Barolo Carobric 2000 - The nose of the Scavino Carobric was worth the price of admission as aromas of black olive, rich brooding dark fruits and meaty broth wafted up from the glass. However, on the palate this wine lost my affection as sweet, candied red fruits and a dusting of spice reminded me of a Cali fruit bomb. The finish was surprisingly fresh with lasting notes of cherry. (88 Points)

Rocche Dei Manzoni, Barolo, Vigna Cappella di S. Stefano 2000 – At first, the nose showed dusty potpourri with raspberry fruit and a hint of vanilla, but with a little time in the glass, aromas of broth and mushrooms came forward, which grounded the ripe fruit, making this wine highly enjoyable. The palate was smooth and very autumnal with sweet red fruit, allspice and cinnamon leading to a long sour candy finish. For a wine I was afraid would be too ripe, this bottle showed beautifully, and although it may not be my preferred style of Barolo, there was no doubting the quality in the glass. (90 Points)

Brovia, Barolo Rocche 2000 – The Brovia Rocche was rich yet vibrant on the nose with scents of fall leaves, dried flowers and ripe strawberry fruit. On the palate, I found a soft, sweet expression of dark berries carried by vibrant acidity across the tongue with molasses and herbs rounding out the medium-long finish. This was one of the bottles that kept me coming back for more once the tasting was done. (92 Points)

Roagna, Barbaresco Paje 2000 - The nose on the Roagna Paje showed a darker side of Nebbiolo as aromas of buttery pastry crust and dark fruits dominated with floral and herbal tones. On the palate, there was a finessed expression of red berries, tealeaves, and hints of dark, dark chocolate. With time in the glass, more meaty and mineral notes came forward. This was a gorgeous glass of Barbaresco that seemed to be missing a bit of focus on the palate but was still highly enjoyable. (90 Points)

Bartolo Mascarello, Barolo 2000 - The Bartolo Mascarello, even being from the ripe 2000 vintage, showed beautifully fragrant and classic notes of Nebbiolo. The nose was floral with minerals, tight red fruit and beefy reduction sauce. The palate was fresh and lively with red cherry, roses, tobacco and tealeaf. This was a medium-bodied wine that showed its beauty through finesse as opposed to power, and it finished with red fruits and light cherry tobacco. (93 points)

Notes from other 2000 Baroli from 2010:

Elio Grasso Barolo Ginestra “Vigna Casa Maté” 2000 - The nose showed black cherry, roses, leather and a bit of heat that was moderate enough to not get in the way. On the palate, I found cherry and currant on a medium bodied frame with silky tannins. This wine balanced between ripeness and elegance as the finish carried sour red fruit to the close and stayed on the palate for what seemed like a full minute. (90 points)

Giacomo Conterno, Barolo Cascina Francia 2000 - The nose was big and ripe with black cherries, earth and a bit of raw beef. The palate was soft and full-bodied with dark red fruits, red beets and minerals that all turned a little sweet on the mid palate and led to a slightly tannic finish. I certainly don’t see this lasting decades but it was enjoyable and a good candidate for drinking 5 years plus. (92 Points)

Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Riserva Granbussia 2000 - The 2000 Aldo Conterno, Barolo Granbussia, showed candied red fruit with cedar, leather, crushed fall leaves and a seductive Christmas spice on the nose. On the palate, it was full-bodied and juicy with ripe strawberry, tobacco, licorice and spice. The finish was long, with red fruit, yet clean, showing silky tannin. This is an approachable bottle now, but it still shows a balance that promises many years of good drinking and, with all this ripe fruit, might one day be a truly classic Barolo. (96 Points)

Cavallotto, Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe 2000 - The nose was big and brooding with dark red licorice, rose petals, orange marmalade and a combination of things that I can best describe as sauerbraten sauce. On the palate, it was full bodied with vibrant acidity, showing sour raspberry fruit, rosemary, tar and clove. The finish was long with cranberry fruit and silky tannin. Gorgeous. (93 Points)

Bea and Quintarelli: An Evening to remember

Another remarkable evening at i Trulli took place as we descended on what has become my go-to Italian restaurant in New York City to celebrate with friends and, with a number of stunning top shelf Italian wines. I Trulli’s staff and service was top notch yet again and the food was out of this world. This also gave me a chance to try a few more items off their menu that peaked my interests during my last visit.

Perfection in simplicity is the name of the game here where the best ingredients are assembled by a deft hand in the kitchen and presented beautifully on each plate. It’s such a simple recipe for success that speaks volumes to the forward thinking of i Trulli’s owners and management. I'm already looking forward to my next visit.

However, I must stay on track, as I truly intended this addition to The V.I.P. Table to be about the momentous wines that were opened and enjoyed on this evening. These consisted of two artisanal producers who are considered masters at their craft and producers of reference point wines in their regions.

First, Paolo Bea, a producer of Sagrantino di Montefalco, from the region of Umbria in Italy. Paolo Bea is a strict biodynamic producer, who is proud to use the same traditional methods as taught to him by his father. To Bea, these wines are simple expressions of the land that are fortified through decades of experience in wine making and the inspiration he gains from his family. However, I can guarantee that these wines are anything but simple. Paolo Bea Sagrantino is rich and lush, yet finessed and with the ability to mature for decades. Also not to be missed are the stunning and wonderfully unique white wines and Sangiovese from his estate.

Then there is Quintarelli, “The Master of the Veneto”. Although Giuseppe Quintarelli is no longer heavily involved in the wine making of his estate (due to his age), the decades of vintages he leaves behind will surely live forever. Quintarelli is synonymous with Amarone della Valpolicella, a wine of meditation and reflection. Amarone is known for its intensity and layers of deep rich flavors, but Quintarelli takes it to an entirely different level. The aromatics are often so deep and layered that a glass could be enjoyed without ever sipping it. Once you take that first sip, you are transported to a heaven of flavors and sensations across the palate. It is nearly indescribable but, be warned, it comes at a high price. Once Quintarelli was truly discovered and reached cult status, the prices soared. However, in this taster’s opinion, I feel the experience is worth the price of admission, and the Amarone I tasted on this night, at $550 a bottle, provided an experience that I will never forget.

On to the notes:

The 2003 Paolo Bea, Sagrantino di Montefalco showed a gorgeous deep red crimson color in the glass. As I poured, an aroma of candied cherry filled the air. With a little time in the glass, the rich fruit transformed into a Burgundian expression of red fruit with earth and clay. Dusty dried flowers filled out the bouquet and, as a few tasters noted, hints of sausage, which gave the nose a savory edge. The palate followed suit with flavors of raspberry, coffee, chocolate liquor and old cedar. The finish was long with staying dark chocolate and red fruit. (95 out of 100 points)

What could follow such a wonderful experience with the Sagrantino? The 1995 Giuseppe Quintarelli Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva was a dark mahogany color with rich and wild aromas rising from the glass. I found it difficult to take that first sip because the aromatics were so seductive that I simply didn’t want to take my nose from the glass. Black cherry sauce with saw dust were the first aromas to come to mind, followed by butterscotch and hazelnuts, which then turned to spiced ginger cookies and plum reduction. So many layers could be pulled away to continue finding descriptors in this wine, and I was only sad that we didn’t have the time to spend hours with it. On the palate I found a menagerie of red fruits as cherry, then raspberry and cranberry filled the palate. Vanilla and milk chocolate, butter cream and roasted nuts with spicy cedar were also present. However, with all this concentration, the wine remains finessed and fresh on the palate. Its 16.5% alcohol is nearly invisible due to the impeccable balance of this wine. The finish lingered for 30-plus seconds with cherry dark chocolate. (99 out of 100 points)

Lastly, the 1990 Giuseppe Quintarelli, Bianco Amabile del Cere Veneto was the finale of the evening and it was amazing. This was another example of Quintarelli’s ability to make such a rich and intense wine that can be perfectly balanced and fresh on the finish. The color was amber with a hint of orange with aromas of apricot, candied orange rinds, burnt sugar, roasted almond liquor and butter. The palate was intense and expansive with sweet roasted nuts, orange sprits and buttery caramel that goes on and on into the finish. I have officially declared this to be the best sweet wine I have yet tasted. (98 out of 100 points)

Click here to find the 2003 Paolo Bea Sagrantino di Montefalco on Wine-Searcher.
Click here to find the 1995 Giuseppe Quintarelli Amarone Riserva on Wine-Searcher.
Click here to find the 1990 Giuseppe Quintarelli, Bianco Amabile del Cere on Wine-Searcher.

For another take on this amazing evening, I urge you to check out Vigna Uva Vino. It's a great wine blog by, fellow writer and good friend, Dave Trieger.

Eating Italian in NYC? Pass on Little Italy, "i Trulli" is where you want to be.

The most common question I'm asked during my travels is: “What's your favorite Italian restaurant in New York City?” Obviously this question has been answered in a number of ways. However, I find myself recommending one place in particular recently, and I thought it would be a good idea to revisit it and make sure it was worth all the hype I've been giving it. You know what? It is worth the hype and not only that; it's even better than I remember. My current favorite Italian restaurant in New York City is… i Trulli.

Located at 122 E. 27th Street between Park and Lexington Avenue, i Trulli was opened in 1994 by Nicola Marzovilla. The idea was to create a fine dining Italian restaurant with a foundation built around the foods of his native region, Apulia. The master behind these culinary creations is Chef Patti Jackson. I must say that my hat is off to her, as I don't remember the last time I have seen an entire table of guests so enamored with each and every course served to them.

i Trulli offers dinner and lunch menus as well as a third menu in their enoteca-styled dining room, which includes a wood-burning oven and a station where the items from this menu are prepared in view of their customers. A second room serves as the perfect backdrop of fine dining done in all hard wood, with elegant table settings and a glass-encased wine cellar in view. Lastly, there’s a spacious out-door garden area, which succeeds in helping you forget you’re sitting in the middle of New York City. The garden transports your imagination to an Italian villa done in earth tones with painted murals, hanging plants and a small waterfall.

The wine list represents a wonderful selection of wines from all over Italy with spotlights on a number of iconic producers. It ranges from daily quaffers to big Baroli with pedigree and age. Not to mention, whether you're looking for a bargain wine or a trophy, there are deals to be found as you peruse the list. On the high end, one of my favorite all-time bottles – the 1996 Vietti Rocche at $240 – may seem expensive to some, but it is a great price for a bottle that's often impossible to come by these days at retail. On this occasion, I decided to go with the 2001 San Leonardo IGT, a bottle that averages between $55 - $65 dollars at retail, yet is listed at $110 on their list. Consider the typical mark-up on wine at a restaurant, and you can do the math.

To get the full experience, my party opted to go with i Trulli's “A Taste of Puglia” 15th anniversary menu. This consisted of a five-course tasting experience that cost $48 a person. While looking through the menu, we also found another dish that tempted our palates – the Malloreddus – and so we decided to have that served family-style with our meal.

“A Taste of Puglia” Celebrating i Trulli’s 15th Anniversary

Panzerotti – A mix of Pugliese baby calzones. One was filled with tomato and mozzarella, and the other with olives and scallions. They were perfectly crisp and rich as we bit through the dough to find a mix of tantalizing flavors. My favorite of the two was the olive and scallion, which was very unique and showed intense earthy flavors against the backdrop of the rich, crispy dough.

Burrata – An Apulian cheese with Puntarelle salad. The cheese was creamy and earthy with a semi-sharp bite that was tempered by the bitterness of the greens, simple yet perfect in its simplicity.

Orecchietti – Ear-shaped pasta in a rabbit ragu. This is a dish that I've had at i Trulli before, and I had to come back to sample again. You can taste the freshness of the Orecchietti pasta. As for the ragu, there’s no shortage of meat, which is succulent and full of character, along with spicy ripe tomato flavors and fresh herbs. This is a dish that makes me long for simpler days, long ago, when my own grandmother would prepare feasts at our Sunday dinner table.

Malloreddus – Sardinian saffron dumplings with sausage and tomato was the show-stealing plate of the night. The potato dumplings were like velvet pillows on your tongue as they melted away against the rich, spicy sausage and saffron flavors of the sauce. Honestly, this dish alone is worth the visit to i Trulli. It's unique, it's thought provoking… I would go as far as saying that it's sexy. (Let me remind you that this is not part of the 15th anniversary menu. I added this to our meal when I was seduced by it's description on the menu)

Agnello – Roasted lamb chops, fave e cicoria, potato tiella. These were perfectly cooked, seasoned and juicy lamb chops. Does it really need anything else? You would think not, until you bit into the cheesy potato tiella, which set off the gamey flavors of the meat and made for a great palate cleanser that kept the lamb interesting. One repeating theme I find at i Trulli is their ability to pair adverse flavors that keep you wanting more.

Pulpo (An alternative to the Agnello) – Grilled octopus, black chickpeas and scarola salad. This was so fresh that it practically melted in my mouth and it was grilled to perfection with a light smokiness and crisp to the skin. The Scarola salad was a perfect match with its bold earthy, savory flavors.

Cartellatte – Traditional honey dipped cookies with melon parfait. This consisted of rich and creamy vanilla bean custard with shaved pieces of iced honeydew, which gave it a refreshing, light feel and topped with a crisp, light, honey dipped cookie. Need I say more?

As dinner came to a close I looked around the table and saw nothing but happy faces. I don’t remember the last time I have been so satisfied with a meal, and I was unable to think of a single thing that I could list as a negative. At $48, the 15th anniversary tasting menu is an amazing value in fine dining. The wine list leaves nothing to be desired, and if you must bring your own bottle, $25 corkage fee will cover you.

Lastly, I would be remiss not to mention that i Trulli also owns a wine store, Vino, located across the street from the restaurant, which specializes in Italian wines, but has also recently started carrying wines from all around the world. A stop at i Trulli would not be complete without browsing these shelves for some Italian gems. What’s more is that any bottle purchased from Vino can be brought to the restaurant to enjoy with lunch (between 12:00 – 3:00 pm) on Saturdays and Sundays without having to pay any corkage. I can’t think of a better deal in wine and food.

The cold hard facts
Service: Impeccable. Knowledgeable staff that is attentive yet never in the way.
The Food: Southern Italian. Outstanding, perfection in simplicity, great attention to details, excellent pairing of items on each plate, aggressive yet refreshing to the palate and quite unique.
My Cost: $48 for a five-course menu that left me completely satisfied. Excellent value.
Corkage: $25
Location: 122 E. 27th Street between Park and Lexington Avenue
Website: i Trulli

My picks from the wine list:
By the glass: Orsolani, Caluso Spumante Cuvee Tradizione 2004 $14
Value bottle: Schola Sarmenti, Negroamaro Roccamora 2006 $38
Mid range bottle: De Conciliis,Paestum Aglianico Naima 2004 $120 (0r) San Leonardo IGT 2001 $110
High end bottle: Vietti, Barolo Rocche 1996 $240

If I could change one thing, I would ask that the sommelier add an upgrade option to their tasting menu that would add a wine pairing to each course.

The 2001 San Leonardo IGT, showed black cherries with chestnut, undergrowth, animal musk, and a bit of greenness, which did not detract but instead added an earthy element to the aromatics. One the palate, it presented a medium bodied wine with perfect balance as more cherries, cranberries and cocoa showed through. The finish was finessed with red fruit and left the palate refreshed.

To find this wine on Wine-Searcher, click here!