Goulash, The ultimate comfort food

Nostalgia is a powerful thing, especially when it comes to food. Having grown up only blocks away from some of the best German restaurants in New York City, many of my nostalgic memories from childhood are of German cuisine and one in particular, Goulash. To this day, a rainy autumn afternoon or snowy winter night will always stir in me the desire for a warm bowl of goulash. Its moderate heat is perfectly tempered by the rich sauce and natural sweetness of the onions. When perfectly cooked the meat nearly melts in your mouth and becomes part of the sauce. This is the ultimate comfort food.

The recipe included below may be very different from what a chef would learn in school or what the typical cookbook may provide, but I assure you that it will create a Goulash of incredible depth and richness. The ingredients are simple, but it requires a certain amount of patience from the cook and passion for the food. This preparation wasn’t taught to me by one person; instead it was constructed from an old traditional recipe and then fortified by the knowledge of a number of people that credit themselves as Goulash aficionados. One may have wanted nutmeg, another to brown the meat, but in the end I took the knowledge of all of them and, through experimentation, constructed what you see below.

However, there has always been one piece missing in this equation: what wine should I pair with it? Firstly, my experience with German reds is limited and most restaurants I’ve dined at consider beer to be the beverage of choice. Even the wine list at one of my local favorites, and possibly the best German Restaurant in New York City, has only a small number of Rieslings and one or two German reds. Secondly, a good Goulash will usually have a certain amount of heat to it, which poses another problem, where it might overpower the average red. Then it dawned on me: Zinfandel.

I choose to pair two wines with this dinner because, like most varietals, Zinfandel is made in many different styles. The one style I wouldn’t recommend with this dish is the heavily fruited and almost sappy sweet Zinfandels that sometimes cross your path. Instead I went with one of my most trusted producers, Ridge, and a bit of a wild card that I discovered this year while in Napa Valley, Trespass.

2006 Trespass Zinfandel, from Napa Valley was, surprisingly, a light ruby red color with aromas of bright red fruit, cranberry sauce and a bit of chalk dust. With time the fruit became darker with clove spice and plum, providing beautiful contrast to the heady, rich, beefy aromas of the goulash. On the palate it showed dark blue fruit, cedar and clove, adding complexities to the dish’s earthy flavors of rosemary and paprika. It's full-bodied and zesty acidity worked wonders, carrying the fruit through the spicy heat of the goulash to end in a long finish reminiscent of sour cherry cough drops. This was a beautifully nuanced and complex zinfandel that ended up as the majority favorite of the night.

2007 Ridge Zinfandel Ponzo Vineyard was in many ways the yin to the Trespass Zinfandels yang. The wine was a dark purple color in the glass and wafted aromas of black cherry fruit followed by confectioners sugar, sage, and a bit of nail polish remover (I mean that in a good way) which added a floral perfume and kept me with my nose to the glass for minutes on end. On the palate it delivered big, lush brambly fruit with spicy vanilla and dark chocolate flavors. The wine complimented the Goulash by standing up to its big bold flavors and providing a contrast of lush fruit and firm tannin between each bite of savory beef. The Ridge Ponzo Vineyard was a big, structured, rich, full-bodied Zinfandel with a long red fruit finish. It’s a wine that will age for years in your cellar but probably only moments in your glass.

In the end, I have to say that both wines performed equally well but for totally different reasons. Each wine is, in my opinion, a superior expression of Zinfandel and while the Trespass will capture your soul in its web of elegant fruit and spice, the Ridge will quicken your pulse with its racy perfume and palate of rich bold flavors. The most difficult part of this pairing was deciding what to do next, eat or drink. The Hungarian Goulash captured us all in our own way. For me it was nostalgia while, for one guest, it was a wild and new experience, and another saw it as a taste of home. And for a fellow chef, it was trying to figure out how it was possible to achieve such complexity with so few ingredients. I think it’s time you try it for yourself.

Hungarian Goulash

The first thing to understand is that this recipe is all about patience and low, even temperature. The best cooking vessel to use depends mainly on how much you want to make. The recipe below is made to serve 7 – 8, and the reason I choose this high yield is that you can always use the extra as leftovers and, due to the time it takes to make it, you might as well have extra. For the 7 –8 servings I suggest using a heavy stainless steel roasting pan that can span across two burners on your stove. However, if you were to choose to cut this recipe in half for a small group then I would suggest a cast iron or earthenware vessel such a Le creuset.

Secondly, this recipe can be made the same day you plan to serve it; however I highly recommend making it the night before so that the sauce and meat can truly come together and develop a deeper, richer flavor. This also frees you up to better entertain your guests while also impressing them by how effortlessly you are able to produce such a wonderful meal.

5 pounds beef chuck (fat trimmed, cubed or cut about 1 ½ inch long, ¾ inch thick)
5 large yellow onions (sliced thick wedges)
8 Tbls tomato paste
2 Tbls hot paprika (Go for real Hungarian paprika)
1 Tbls sweet paprika (Go for real Hungarian paprika)
2 tsp dried oregano
¾ tsp fresh grated nutmeg
3 branches fresh rosemary
about 4 tsp salt
Pepper to taste
5 cups water
2 Tbls AP flour
Extra Virgin Olive Oil (as needed)
4 Tbls sweet butter (for the finish)
1 lb fettuccini (Can use egg noodles; serve with potato dumplings or even rice)

1. Place roasting pan over two burners on your stovetop and pour enough olive oil to coat entire bottom of the pan. Set burners to low-medium flame. Once the oil is heated, add onions with a healthy pinch of salt and toss to coat in the oil. Cook over low-medium flame until onions turn translucent but do not allow them to take on any color.

2. Reduce flame to low. Make sure the onions are evenly spread out on the pan bottom and add the beef slices by placing them on top of the onions in an even layer. The beef should cover the onions completely but make sure that none of the pieces touch the side of the pan. The onions should create a cushion between the pan bottom and the beef.

3. Sprinkle another pinch of salt over the beef. Next, sprinkle all the paprika over the beef evenly (I like to use a sifter for this to create a fine and even layer.) Now add the oregano and nutmeg again, evenly over the beef. Lastly, place two (of the three) rosemary branches on top of the beef. (Do not disturb the layers you have created.)

4. Cover the roasting pan tightly with aluminum foil. Check to make sure that the flame is on low. After about 3 – 5 minutes you should hear the mixture bubbling. Allow the mixture to cook like this for 35 minutes and then loosen the aluminum foil to allow a little steam out of the pan. After another 5 – 10 minutes remove the foil (do not discard) and turn all the pieces of meat over. Check to make sure the onions are not burning. You should notice that the meat and onions have released a lot of their juices. Place the foil back on top of the pan (loosely) and allow the mixture to cook over low heat for another 45 minutes.

5. Now place saucepot on the stove over medium-low flame, add the five cups of water and whisk in the flour slowly, making sure that no lumps form. Now add the tomato paste and again whisk until it is combined. Allow this mixture to come up to a gentle boil but make sure to whisk regularly.

6. Remove the foil from the roasting pan, remove the two branches of rosemary from the pan and add the boiling water-tomato paste mixture. Turn the beef and onions over in the sauce. The cooking liquid should just barely cover the beef and onions. Bring this mixture back to a simmer over medium-low flame and cover loosely with the foil so that steam can escape from the pan. Cook this mixture for an hour to an hour and a half, and stir gently once or twice to make sure that the mixture is cooking evenly.

7. It’s at this time that you should taste. Check to make sure that the beef is tender. Season with salt and pepper. Then turn off the heat.

8. If you want to serve the same day, let this mixture sit for about an hour before going to the next step. If you want to use this for the following day, move the mixture to a bowl and place in an ice bath to cool it quickly, then cover it tightly and place in the refrigerator.

9. When ready to finish, place Goulash in a pot and set over low heat. Bring another pot of well-salted water to boil for the pasta. Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook according to the instructions on the package.

10. While waiting for the pasta, set the butter out on the counter and cut into cubes. Strip the last branch of rosemary for its leaves and chop them. By the time the pasta is finished, the Goulash should be perfectly heated through. Taste for seasoning one last time and then add the butter and stir gently until combined.

11. Strain your pasta and toss in olive oil. Set the pasta on a plate and hollow out a circle in the middle. Pour one or two (depending on the party) ladles of goulash into the center of the plate and sprinkle with the fresh chopped rosemary. Clean the rim of your plate with a warm, moist paper towel and serve.

12. Be prepared for praise.

California Dreamin'

A Pride Vineyard

Two years ago, a trip to Napa and Sonoma Valleys changed the way I looked at Californian wine. Being a wine drinker who started and fell in love with Italy, I went to California with an open mind but a lingering thought that I would be disappointed. However, I was far from disappointed, as I came to realize that the wine most people thought of as Californian was far from what the passionate and pioneering producers were making. Wineries such as Pride, Trespass, EMH, Larkmead, Alpha Omega and a host of others successfully showed me that there are juicy, structured and elegant wines of depth and nuance to be found in California.

That trip also resulted in me signing up for a number of lists and making a number of purchases of the bottles I enjoyed. I figured it was about time to check in on some of the wines that thrilled me two years ago, as well as some recent releases from those wineries. To put it mildly, I was happily impressed. If you’re looking to delve into California, this list is certainly a great place to start. None of these are cheap; however, they are all worth their tariff.

If there's one significant impression that I walk away from with this tasting with, its that I need to plan another tasting trip to California in the near future.

On to the wines:

2009 Larkmead Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Lillie B4 Block – On the nose, this wine wowed me with pear and peach, wet stone, a spritz of lime, field grasses and sour clotted cream. On the palate, it was incredibly elegant and soft but with an underlying structure and a core of vibrant acidity that made the mouth water in preparation for the flavors of peach, honeydew and minerals that followed. As this wine finished, a lovely note of pineapple lingered for what seemed to be a full minute. (93 points) Larkmead Website

2009 Massican Gemina – The Gemina had filled out even more since I last tasted it. The nose showed almond, citrus fruit and honeysuckle with white flowers tempting you to taste, and as time passed, I also found a layer of mineral and stone which added a good amount of depth to the wine. On the palate, it was a rich yet refined, medium bodied wine showing honeydew melon, buttery lemon and grapefruit, which lasted into its long finish. (92 points) Massican Website (Also look out for a full review of Massican's 2010 lineup coming soon!)

2008 A.P. Vin Pinot Noir Rancho Ontiveros Vineyard – The nose showed wild herbs, raspberry and strawberry with allspice and hints of wood shop. On the palate, I found cherry with orange rind and sweet spice. The finish was shorter than expected and showed a bit more alcohol than I’d like, but with time in decanter the edges rounded out and left me with an overall good impression of this wine. (90 points) A.P. Vin Website

2008 Larkmead Vineyards Firebelle – The nose showed black currant, cherry liquor, spice, brown sugar and a hint of fresh-turned soil. On the palate, it was velvety smooth and luxuriant with blackberry jam, cherry wood and spice. The finish was exceptionally long with blackberry and currant fruit, yet it was fresh and begging for another sip. (94 points) Larkmead Website

2006 Pride Mountain Vineyards Merlot – The nose showed blueberry and blackberry with molasses, a hint of vanilla and, with air in the glass, sweet confectionary spices. On the palate, it was warm and seductive with a full-balanced body, showing black cherry, cinnamon and spice with dark chocolate and cola leading into the long finish. Pride successfully balanced elegance and structure in this excellent bottle of Merlot. (92 points) Pride Mountain Vineyards Website

2005 Trespass Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Grown – When this bottle was first opened the nose showed strawberry, sour berries, candied sugar and a hint of bell pepper. However, over the course of three hours, it came to life, as the pepper faded back to reveal notes of earth, leather and hints of barnyard. On the palate, it was beautifully structured and surprisingly feminine, as an initial burst of acidity turned soft as velvet on the tongue with flavors of black currant, herbs and a hint of salinity. The finish was long with notes of blackberry jam. (93 points) Trespass Vineyards Website

2006 Trespass Rendezvous – The nose showed ripe raspberry jam, molasses, pepper, spice cookie and a hint of undergrowth. On the palate, I found blueberry and dark chocolate with violet candies and a plush velvety mouthfeel. The finish was long with wild berries and cider mulling spices. (92 points) Trespass Vineyards Website

2006 EMH Cabernet Sauvignon Black Cat – The 2006 EMH vineyards, Black Cat, was on a whole new level from my previous tasting. Almost a year has passed, and this dark beauty has really come out of its shell. Upon pouring, the aromatics leapt from the glass and filled the room with a bouquet of sweet floral notes and dark fruits. With a swirl in the glass, I found blackberry, cherry and anise with notes of pepper and sage. The palate showed rich spicy black currant, cinnamon gram cracker and dark chocolate, yet also showed wonderful vibrancy and finesse. The finish went on and on for over a minute with a seductive mix of clove, cinnamon, star anise and cherry. (93 points) EMH Vineyards Website

2005 Cliff Lede Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District – The nose showed black currant, confectioners sugar, spice and a hint of green pepper. On the full-bodied palate, I found sweet raspberry jam and cola, which turned to sour cherry with an herbal quality. The finish showed dark red fruits which turned slightly sour as it faded away. (92 points) Cliff Lede Vineyards Website

2004 Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve – The nose showed black currant, cinnamon stick, nutmeg, rosemary, dark brown sugar and whiffs of vanilla. On the palate, I found black cherry, dark chocolate and cola with zesty acidity and beautiful structure. The finish went on and on for over a minute. This wine was massive yet fresh and will easily improve for many years to come. (94 points) Robert Mondavi Website

2007 Sbragia Family Zinfandel Italo's Vineyard – The color of the 2007 Sbragia Family Zinfandel Italo's Vineyard, showed a brilliant ruby red. The nose opened fresh, showing a mix of wild berries, primarily blue but ever-changing with each sniff. A floral component came forward with time, along with a hint of undergrowth, sweet caramel and coffee bean, which added masses of depth. On the full, rich palate, I found candied blackberry and cola, playing a sweet & sour act and carrying this wine’s 14.5% alcohol flawlessly. The finish was fresh and long, showing dried cherries. (90 points) Sbragia Family Vineyards Website

2007 Ridge Geyserville – A beautiful display of rich blackberry fruit, dark chocolate and earthy slate dust. The palate was like velvet yet structured with dark chocolate-covered cherries and cedar. The wine showed remarkable balance and a gorgeous core of well-defined fruit. The finish was long with cherries and dark chocolate. Yum! (91 points) Ridge VIneyards Website

2006 Neyers Syrah Old Lakeville Road – The nose showed wild berries and cherry with undergrowth, dried herbs, and air-dried meats. On the palate, this wine showed smooth and velvety with dark fruits, spicy cinnamon and earth. The medium finish was rich, yet fresh. (91 points) Neyers Vineyards Website

Food & Wine in The Dog Days of Summer

I’m sitting with a cup of coffee on a lazy Sunday morning and trying to catch up with things as my busy summer season comes to an end. I’ve enjoyed some wonderful wines this summer with more to come in the next few weeks. I’ve included notes on a few I wanted to share with everyone today.

Firstly, two weeks ago was the release of my most recent article on www.snooth.com, Bucatini all'Amatriciana. Where I ask the age-old question of “If it ain’t broke, why fix it?” This traditional Italian dish finds itself constantly downplayed in our society because of constant substitutions of its core ingredients and laziness during the preparation. In my most recent article, I show just how easy it is to make this stunning Italian classic that will blow you away. Your guests will never be able to eat this dish anywhere else, besides from your kitchen, after you show them just how delectable it can be.

Check it out on snooth: Bucatini all'Amatriciana

On to the wines; This has been a great summer for finding some moderately priced wines that deliver an amazing amount of pleasure. The three wines below are all fantastic and could easily stand tall against much more expensive bottles. They are all in the $30 - $45 range but would make for a great bottle to have at a special dinner.

2003 L'Arco Valpolicella Classico Superiore - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Valpolicella Classico Superiore (8/21/2010)
Opened four hours prior to dinner.

The nose, at first, showed rich chocolate cover cherry, but upon a second sniff, the details began to come forward with crushed fall leaves, undergrowth and cinnamon. The palate was remarkably finessed and showing ripe cherries, dried cherries, tobacco and flower petals. As it flowed across the mid-palate, bitters and spice came forward, yet somehow a slightly sweet component shined through. The finish is long... long... long with cherries and christmas spice.

My only regret is that I didn't buy more of this great wine. This is beautiful for the price ($35). I could convince someone that this cost more than twice its price. Stunning. (93 pts.) Find it on Wine-Searcher

2007 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley (8/15/2010)
Upon opening, an intense showing of cherry liquor with a sour bitter component but with time (2 hours) ripe plum came forward with soil, chalk dust and a bit of vanilla. The palate comes across as a bit sticky and sweet, at first, but rounds out into a velvety expression of raspberry fruit with cola and clove. The finish is long, soft and refined with red fruit.

It's fruit forward but still shows a good amount of earth and pinot character. I see this as a real crowd pleaser and will buy more. (91 pts.) Find it on Wine-Searcher

2006 Trespass Zinfandel - USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena (7/27/2010)
Trespass manages to walk that tight rope between richness and finesse, and they walk it so well. This bottles showed dark blue fruit and vanilla with chalk dust and a hint of heat on the nose. The palate is rich, soft... lush, yet finessed with dark cherry and allspice. The finish is long and shows sour red fruits.

Trespass continues to be one of the best performers from my cellar. This Napa Valley winery, is well worth seeking out. Check out their website here: Trespass Vineyards (91 pts.)

Lastly, a friend and fellow wine collector, Ken Vastola, has put together a new website, The Fine Wine Geek. His new sight (really and old site with an update and new home) focuses on near encyclopedic data of producers such as Bruno Giacosa, Giacomo Conterno, Bartolo Mascarello and Sine Qua Non. This is a must see website for Barolo collectors and one that I’m sure I’ll use for regular reference. My favorite part are the Bartolo Mascarello pages that show his hand drawn labels, which are near impossible to find.

There's some really great stuff in the works for The V.I.P. Table in the coming weeks. Make sure to check back for weekly updates or set up a RSS Feed subscription. See you in another week.

Eric Guido

Food and wine in May

My new article "Flavors of the Mediterranean" was posted to snooth.com today along with the recipe and wine pairings. This is a very easy recipe that will easily convince your guests that you spent hours in the kitchen preparing it. If memory serves, it was about 45 minutes from start to finish. I urge anyone looking for a new spin on chicken or just a lover of olives in general, to give it a try.

Also, with the end of May at hand, I thought back to a number of wonderful wines that I tried throughout the month. Each one represents a great value compared to its cost. The tasting notes can be found below.

Lastly, look forward to my travels to Cape may, NJ in June. I'll be hitting one of the best vacation spots in the north-east and reporting back on the best places to stay and eat. I know I'm looking forward to it and so should you.

On to the notes...

• 2003 Trespass Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Grown - USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena (5/26/2010)
  The nose showed sour berry, wild blueberry, powdery cinnamon and a tiny bit of nail polish remover. On the palate, it was full bodied and caressing with creme de cassis, dark chocolate covered cherry and a hint of sour clotted cream. Big long dark fruit finish that kept me wanting more. What a treat, the only bad thing about this bottle was that it was my last one. (93 pts.)
  


• 2004 Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville (5/8/2010)
  No detailed notes but second time with this bottle and once again I'm very impressed. Once of the best values in cali cabernet. Very classy, black currants and floral perfume. The palate was elegant and smooth with a long finish. I wish I had more or at least the time to have really sat with this to get a better tasting note. (93 pts.)
  


• 2007 Domaine du Grapillon d'Or Gigondas - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Gigondas (5/22/2010)
  The color is red verging on purple. The nose shows toasty wild berries with spice cookie but no undergrowth as my last tasting showed. The palate is full and silky smooth with blue, black fruit and cinnamon. A bit of perceptible heat yet very fresh. The finish shows lavender and dark fruits.
  
  A highly enjoyable glass of wine. (92 pts.)