This ain't yo' Mama's Zinfandel

Image Borrowed from Zazzle.com

Do you drink Zinfandel? You really should. One of the first horror stories I learned in wine was about “White Zinfandel,” the insipid pink stuff that’s sipped at weddings, pools and underage parties around the world. Yet it’s utterly amazing how much people hate the stuff. Unfortunately, that same hated for White Zin has forever left its mark on the word “Zinfandel”.  Literally to the point that when you recommend a Zinfandel to someone, you feel obligated to explain that it’s a “red” Zinfandel—not white.

So why should you drink Zinfandel? Besides the fact that it’s an excellent value, with good bottles in nearly every price range, it’s also because the absolute best examples will only run you into the $35-$50 range. There’s also the fact that Zinfandel comes in many styles, from rich and sultry party-in-a-bottle versions to examples that are lean and focused, and excellent with food. Ridge is a producer that immediately comes to mind, and it’s easy to become lost in their large mix of great Zins. However, once in a while a new producer comes along that turns my head, and that’s exactly what happened with Talty Vineyards.

What truly sets Talty Zinfandel apart from the rest is its massive amount of rich layered fruit and spice balanced against earthy and floral notes with impeccable balance and juicy acidity. Sounds great, right? It’s even better in person.

Talty vineyards are located in Sonoma’s Dry Creek Valley, an area truly suited to creating amazing Zins. The Talty family prides itself in creating handcrafted wines (from the “vine to the wine” as they put it). The Estate Zinfandel comes from their own six-acre vineyard, whereas the Filice Connolly is from Napa Valley. It’s hard to choose between these two bottlings. In the end, it was the ’06 Filice Connolly that truly stole my heart. It’s simply a great Zinfandel at its peak. However, they are all worth your consideration.

On to the notes:

2005 William Talty Estate Zinfandel Dry Creek – The nose was beautifully expressive with intense mixed berries, floral and stem notes, pepper, leather and sweet red candies. On the palate, it was big yet juicy with mixed berry jam and spice in a balanced and finessed expression of Zinfandel. The long staying finish remained fresh and highly enjoyable. (91 points)

2007 William Talty Estate Zinfandel Dry Creek – The nose was intense and expressive with toasty almond, sweet spices, blackberry jam, raisins and a sour cream note that added a savory balance to all the sweetness. On the palate, it was smooth as silk yet juicy with black cherry, spices and dark chocolate. It was remarkably balanced throughout and finished long, yet clean. (93 Points)

2008 William Talty Estate Zinfandel Dry Creek – The nose was more restrained than the ’05 and ’07, yet still highly enjoyable with blackberry, floral notes and black pepper. On the palate, it was juicy with red berries, black currant, spicy vanillin, and herbs. The finish was palate-coating, yet fresh with notes of sour red berries. (90 points)

The Filice Connolly Vineyard Zinfandel, Napa Valley

2006 William Talty Napa Filice Connolly Vineyards – The nose showed perfumed red fruits, animal musk, a hint of cotton candy and sweet spices. On the palate, it was big and dark with a massive wave of rich berries and sweet spices in a balanced and remarkably fresh expression. The finish was palate-coating, yet fresh.  This is simply a great Zinfandel entering its peak drinking window. (94 points) 

2008 William Talty Napa Filice Connolly Vineyards – The nose showed mixed berries, floral perfumes, minerals and earthy stones. On the palate, it was smooth yet juicy with intense red and black fruits, brown sugar and earthy black pepper. The finish was long and fresh. (92 points)

Talty Vineyards Website!

A big thank you of Greg dal Piaz of Snooth for introducing me to Talty Vineyards.

Ridge: Wine from a "pre-industrial" time

Ridge: Lytton Springs Winery
and tasting room 

Ridge Vineyards is something of a best-kept secret amongst wine lovers in the know. The grapes are sourced from vineyards throughout Santa Cruz, Napa and Sonoma Valleys. It's a winery that prides itself on a history of creating some of the most enjoyable, fascinating, and age-worthy wines coming out of California. Their lineup includes bottles for the casual drinker all the way up to the aficionado, with wines that can be enjoyed today or cellared for decades.

L to R: Eric Baugher,
Paul Draper and, John Olney

So what makes them different? A commitment to quality; to not just producing wines that will sell, but instead to producing natural wines (or, as Ridge prefers to call them, “pre-industrial”) that will leave an impact. A commitment to place, with a list of vineyard specific bottles going back decades, in a region that is only now truly starting to rediscover terroir. However, Ridge's greatest attribute are its people, starting with its famed wine-maker, Paul Draper, but surly due, in no small part, to the hard work of the entire team at Ridge.

Monte Bello Vineyard

What’s more is that there is something for everyone at Ridge. Cabernet, Chardonnay, Rhone varietals and, of course, Zinfandel, which Ridge has become synonymous with. For me, it was the Zinfandel that pulled me in and the esteemed Monte Bello (Bordeaux blend) that sealed the deal.

Some of my favorite Ridge wines,
aging in my cellar.

Can you tell I'm smitten? How about this; Ridge Vineyards holds the number three spot of most cellar wines in my collection. They are only upstaged by Vietti and Giacomo Conterno, and this is coming from a wine lover that puts Italy ahead of all other wine-producing regions. I can't think of a better testimony to the quality of these wines.

Below, I've listed my recent tasting notes for some of their current-release red Zinfandels. They are all worth your attention.

From York Creek Vineyard
high on Spring Mountain.

2009 Ridge York Creek Zinfandel - The nose was like rich blackberry jam on a piece of freshly toasted bread but with a hint of undergrowth that kept it from being too over the top. On the palate, a kaleidoscope of wild berries and spice filled the senses, and this wine switched from sweet to tart and back to sweet again. The finish was long with ripe, spiced berries. This was a highly enjoyable Zinfandel that walked a fine line between ripe and overripe but lands decidedly on the positive side. (89 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!

Lytton Springs, Dry Creek Valley
boast some vines planted at the
turn of the last century.

2009 Ridge Lytton Springs - The nose showed red wild berries, a dusting of cinnamon sugar, hints of minerals and herbs, and a whiff of dark baker’s chocolate. On the palate, it was beautifully balanced and elegant with a firm start and juicy finish. Ripe red and blue fruits went from sweet to tart as it flowed across the palate. The finish was long and spicy. (92 points) Find it on: Wine Searcher!

Located in northern Sonoma
Valley, in a vineyard planted
over ninety years ago.

2009 Ridge Pagani Ranch Zinfandel - The nose was massive, as aromas of wild berries, dry coco, vanilla, ginger spice and savory notes filled the senses. On the palate, it was medium to full-bodied with amazing focus to its intense red berry fruit and spice. The masses of fruit slowly gave way to show this wine’s structure and balance. The finish was long and clinging to the palate, yet ultimately refreshing as the tannins faded away. I seriously enjoyed this structured Zinfandel and am very happy to have more in my cellar, as I can image that it will get even better with time. (93 points) Find it on: Wine-Searcher!


Ridge Vineyards Website!
Also check out Ridge's ATP (Advanced Tasting Program). One of the most unquie wine clubs in California, where members receive small production wines, from Zins to Rhone varietals, that are not available to the public. These are amazing wines that can't be found anywhere else.

California Dreamin'

A Pride Vineyard

Two years ago, a trip to Napa and Sonoma Valleys changed the way I looked at Californian wine. Being a wine drinker who started and fell in love with Italy, I went to California with an open mind but a lingering thought that I would be disappointed. However, I was far from disappointed, as I came to realize that the wine most people thought of as Californian was far from what the passionate and pioneering producers were making. Wineries such as Pride, Trespass, EMH, Larkmead, Alpha Omega and a host of others successfully showed me that there are juicy, structured and elegant wines of depth and nuance to be found in California.

That trip also resulted in me signing up for a number of lists and making a number of purchases of the bottles I enjoyed. I figured it was about time to check in on some of the wines that thrilled me two years ago, as well as some recent releases from those wineries. To put it mildly, I was happily impressed. If you’re looking to delve into California, this list is certainly a great place to start. None of these are cheap; however, they are all worth their tariff.

If there's one significant impression that I walk away from with this tasting with, its that I need to plan another tasting trip to California in the near future.

On to the wines:

2009 Larkmead Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Lillie B4 Block – On the nose, this wine wowed me with pear and peach, wet stone, a spritz of lime, field grasses and sour clotted cream. On the palate, it was incredibly elegant and soft but with an underlying structure and a core of vibrant acidity that made the mouth water in preparation for the flavors of peach, honeydew and minerals that followed. As this wine finished, a lovely note of pineapple lingered for what seemed to be a full minute. (93 points) Larkmead Website

2009 Massican Gemina – The Gemina had filled out even more since I last tasted it. The nose showed almond, citrus fruit and honeysuckle with white flowers tempting you to taste, and as time passed, I also found a layer of mineral and stone which added a good amount of depth to the wine. On the palate, it was a rich yet refined, medium bodied wine showing honeydew melon, buttery lemon and grapefruit, which lasted into its long finish. (92 points) Massican Website (Also look out for a full review of Massican's 2010 lineup coming soon!)

2008 A.P. Vin Pinot Noir Rancho Ontiveros Vineyard – The nose showed wild herbs, raspberry and strawberry with allspice and hints of wood shop. On the palate, I found cherry with orange rind and sweet spice. The finish was shorter than expected and showed a bit more alcohol than I’d like, but with time in decanter the edges rounded out and left me with an overall good impression of this wine. (90 points) A.P. Vin Website

2008 Larkmead Vineyards Firebelle – The nose showed black currant, cherry liquor, spice, brown sugar and a hint of fresh-turned soil. On the palate, it was velvety smooth and luxuriant with blackberry jam, cherry wood and spice. The finish was exceptionally long with blackberry and currant fruit, yet it was fresh and begging for another sip. (94 points) Larkmead Website

2006 Pride Mountain Vineyards Merlot – The nose showed blueberry and blackberry with molasses, a hint of vanilla and, with air in the glass, sweet confectionary spices. On the palate, it was warm and seductive with a full-balanced body, showing black cherry, cinnamon and spice with dark chocolate and cola leading into the long finish. Pride successfully balanced elegance and structure in this excellent bottle of Merlot. (92 points) Pride Mountain Vineyards Website

2005 Trespass Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Grown – When this bottle was first opened the nose showed strawberry, sour berries, candied sugar and a hint of bell pepper. However, over the course of three hours, it came to life, as the pepper faded back to reveal notes of earth, leather and hints of barnyard. On the palate, it was beautifully structured and surprisingly feminine, as an initial burst of acidity turned soft as velvet on the tongue with flavors of black currant, herbs and a hint of salinity. The finish was long with notes of blackberry jam. (93 points) Trespass Vineyards Website

2006 Trespass Rendezvous – The nose showed ripe raspberry jam, molasses, pepper, spice cookie and a hint of undergrowth. On the palate, I found blueberry and dark chocolate with violet candies and a plush velvety mouthfeel. The finish was long with wild berries and cider mulling spices. (92 points) Trespass Vineyards Website

2006 EMH Cabernet Sauvignon Black Cat – The 2006 EMH vineyards, Black Cat, was on a whole new level from my previous tasting. Almost a year has passed, and this dark beauty has really come out of its shell. Upon pouring, the aromatics leapt from the glass and filled the room with a bouquet of sweet floral notes and dark fruits. With a swirl in the glass, I found blackberry, cherry and anise with notes of pepper and sage. The palate showed rich spicy black currant, cinnamon gram cracker and dark chocolate, yet also showed wonderful vibrancy and finesse. The finish went on and on for over a minute with a seductive mix of clove, cinnamon, star anise and cherry. (93 points) EMH Vineyards Website

2005 Cliff Lede Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District – The nose showed black currant, confectioners sugar, spice and a hint of green pepper. On the full-bodied palate, I found sweet raspberry jam and cola, which turned to sour cherry with an herbal quality. The finish showed dark red fruits which turned slightly sour as it faded away. (92 points) Cliff Lede Vineyards Website

2004 Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve – The nose showed black currant, cinnamon stick, nutmeg, rosemary, dark brown sugar and whiffs of vanilla. On the palate, I found black cherry, dark chocolate and cola with zesty acidity and beautiful structure. The finish went on and on for over a minute. This wine was massive yet fresh and will easily improve for many years to come. (94 points) Robert Mondavi Website

2007 Sbragia Family Zinfandel Italo's Vineyard – The color of the 2007 Sbragia Family Zinfandel Italo's Vineyard, showed a brilliant ruby red. The nose opened fresh, showing a mix of wild berries, primarily blue but ever-changing with each sniff. A floral component came forward with time, along with a hint of undergrowth, sweet caramel and coffee bean, which added masses of depth. On the full, rich palate, I found candied blackberry and cola, playing a sweet & sour act and carrying this wine’s 14.5% alcohol flawlessly. The finish was fresh and long, showing dried cherries. (90 points) Sbragia Family Vineyards Website

2007 Ridge Geyserville – A beautiful display of rich blackberry fruit, dark chocolate and earthy slate dust. The palate was like velvet yet structured with dark chocolate-covered cherries and cedar. The wine showed remarkable balance and a gorgeous core of well-defined fruit. The finish was long with cherries and dark chocolate. Yum! (91 points) Ridge VIneyards Website

2006 Neyers Syrah Old Lakeville Road – The nose showed wild berries and cherry with undergrowth, dried herbs, and air-dried meats. On the palate, this wine showed smooth and velvety with dark fruits, spicy cinnamon and earth. The medium finish was rich, yet fresh. (91 points) Neyers Vineyards Website